Eat Drink Mississippi October/November 2020

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI Biloxi Shrimp Co. | 4-Bulls Meats, Deli & Seafood | The Great Mississippi Tea Co.

Seasonal Side Dishes Tired of squash as a side dish? See 3 sides that use fresh, seasonal produce to accompany any main dish.

October/November 2020 $

4.95

www.eatdrinkmississippi.com DISPLAY UNTIL NOVEMBER 30, 2020

Fall-Must Haves

See what kitchen items you need to cook to impress this season eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

We appreciate your hard work and dedication to serving our community through these challenging and uncertain times

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI 2 • October/November 2020

Order take-out or purchase gift cards from your favorite restaurants. Purchasing a gift card now for future use can help them get through this challenging time, as we all work together to return to business as usual. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 3

Round-up on Restaurants Serving Holiday Meals in Jackson

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ

I

f the thought of cooking a holiday meal for a crowd is overwhelming to you, relax; several Jackson restaurants have you covered! With ready-made meals that only require The Manship Wood Fired Kitchen - 1200 North State Street

Manship.

With a Mediterraneaninspired menu executed with a Southern flair, creating a traditional holiday meal is a little out of the norm for Chef Alex Eaton and his crew at The

“It has really become one of our most popular offerings of the year,” said catering manager Ebony Jones. The restaurant has been offering a package deal for both Thanksgiving and Christmas for the past few years, and Ebony said many of the people who buy it are repeat customers. “People like the convenience and they like knowing they can serve their guests food that will taste great.”

The restaurant offers a choice of turkey, ham or pork shoulder, along with dressing, gravy, cranberry relish, two sides and a dessert choice of bread pudding or pumpkin pie.

you to heat and eat, you can focus your creativity on setting a beautiful table, putting the food on your best platters, and impressing your family and friends.

Pig and Pint – 3139 North State Street, Jackson, Mississippi Open since 2014, Chef Grant Hutcheson and his business partner, Chris Clark, have been dishing up their award-winning smoked meats and innovative takes on Southern fare to a loyal following.

“We are thrilled at the recognition our food has received,” said Chris. Most recently, Pig and Pint’s Pepsi Cola-glazed baby back ribs were featured on The Best Thing Ever on the Food Network.

“We sell a lot of meat for holiday gatherings,” said Chris. “This year we will be doing some sort of packaged take-out meal.”

It’s not unusual for folks to order pans of Pig and Pint’s delicious sides, including collards, comeback coleslaw, mango coleslaw, Southern baked beans, smoked green beans and potato salad.

“We also sell our desserts by the pan,” said Chris. “People who don’t really like bread pudding rave about our white chocolate cranberry bread pudding and we also sell a lot of our bananas foster pudding, which is a marriage between bananas foster and banana pudding.”

Sugar’s Place—168 E Griffith Street

Mangia Bene Catering 3317 North State Street Mangia Bene uses a collaboration of all three of their restaurants – BRAVO!, Sal & Mookie’s and Broad Street Bakery to offer ready-made meals for the holidays.

“We have been doing this for over a decade,” said manager Katie Leach. “We offer everything from salads, soups, main courses, sides, fresh-baked bread and rolls, to desserts.”

Main courses include Cajun fried turkey breast, oven-roasted half turkey or a honey-glazed Smithfield ham. Sides include andouille dressing made with Broad Street’s famous focaccia and Chef Dan Blumenthal’s popular spinach casserole. Katie said there are many more sides from which to choose.

This family-oriented and family-run restaurant specializes in classic Southern food to heal your soul. Not only do they have a stellar, homemade menu year-round, but Sugar’s Place also features a yearly holiday catering menu for both Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Glenda Barner, daughter of “Sugar,” the restaurant’s namesake, said, “We offer the same menu for Thanksgiving and Christmas.

The main feature is our Sugar’s Deep-Fried Turkey and our Sugar’s cornbread dressing.”

In addition to their signature turkey, Sugar’s prepares traditional sides for their catering menu, as well. From greens to macaroni and cheese, to honeybun cake, your holiday table is covered thanks to Sugar’s Place. Visit their Facebook page, Sugar’s Place Downtown, to learn more and see their holiday menu.

“Our menu items are prepared from scratch as my mother taught me,” Glenda said.

Brunch is also offered, including Broad Street’s rustic deep-dish quiche and velvety cheese grits.

“I passed it on to my son, Chef Donovan, and my cousins who operate the kitchen. We are even teaching my grandsons how to fix dressing and other menu items and holiday favorites.”

Don’t forget dessert! Bourbon pecan pie, decorated sugar cookies, BRAVO’s double chocolate bread pudding and even cinnamon rolls.

Orders for this Thanksgiving have to be ordered and paid for by Friday, November 20. Pickup is November 25 by noon.

4 • October/November 2020

You can call Glenda Barner at 601-750-6562 to place your order.

MISTLETOE MARKETPLACE ·

NOVEMBER 4-7, 2020

PRESENTED BY THE JUNIOR LEAGUE OF JACKSON MISSISSIPPI TRADE MART | JACKSON, MS WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 4 FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6

ENCHANTED WINTER WONDERLAND MASQUERADE BALL PREVIEW GALA | 7:00 - 11:00 p.m.

Presented by The Junior League of Jackson Musical Entertainment by the Party Jammers

7:00 p.m. | Legacy of Wonder Cheers to 40 years of Mistletoe Marketplace

7:00 - 9:00 p.m. | Walk the Red Carpet Presented by C Spire

MIMOSAS & MISTLETEAUX MARKETPLACE JAZZ BRUNCH | 8:00 - 11:00 a.m.

Presented by Regions Musical Entertainment by David Keary

LET IT SNOW, LET IT GLOW, LET IT SNOW TWEEN FASHION SHOW | 4:30 - 6:00 p.m.

Presented by University of Mississippi Medical Center

7:00 - 11:00 p.m. | Shopping Hours 7:00 - 10:00 p.m. | Silent & Premier Auctions 9:00 p.m. | Live Auction 7:00 - 10:00 p.m. | Unwrap the Wonder

FEELIN’ FROSTY FRIDAY NIGHT EVENT | 8:00 - 11:00 p.m.

Mistletoe Marketplace 2020 Present Pick with gifts from Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 7

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 5

YULETIDE TRADITIONS MISTLETOE MORNING | 8:00 - 11:00 a.m.

Presented by Southern Beverage Co., Inc. Musical Entertainment by Bag of Donuts

SNOW MUCH FUN! CHILDREN’S EVENT | 9:30 - 11:00 a.m.

Presented by Ergon

Presented by Trustmark Musical Entertainment by Kerry Thomas & the Raphael Semmes Trio

SNOW FLURRIES & SMILES SANTA SNAPS 11:30 a.m. - 5:30 p.m.

BELIEVE IN THE WONDER BAPTIST LUNCHEON & STYLE SHOW 11:30 a.m. - 1:30 p.m.

SPIRITS OF THE SEASONS

Featuring Tim Tebow Presented by Mississippi Baptist Medical Center Fashions by Renaissance at Colony Park

FLUTES & FLURRIES GIRLS’ NIGHT OUT | 6:30 - 8:30 p.m.

Presented by Visit Mississippi Tickets on sale September 1, 2020.

For more information on our special event offerings, virtual offerings, shopping hours, COVID-19 protocols, or to order tickets, please visit mistletoemarketplace.com or call 1.888.324.0027.

MISTLETOE SPIRITS BAR Thursday, November 5 | 11:00 a.m. - 5:30 p.m.

Friday, November 6 | 11:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. and 6:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.

Saturday, November 7 | 11:00 a.m. - 5:30 p.m.

GENERAL SHOPPING HOURS THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 5 | 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.

3:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m. | 6:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.

FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6 | 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.

3:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m. | 6:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 7 | 8:00 a.m. - 11:00 a.m.

11:30 p.m. - 2:30 p.m. | 3:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m.

in-person or virtual option

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 5

CONTENTS October/November 2020 Volume 9 Number 5

20

15 in this issue 16 FALL SIDE DISHES YOU WON’T

49 in every issue 8 From the Editor 9

What’s Happening

WANT TO PASS UP: Discover 3 sides using fresh, seasonal produce

22 BILOXI SHRIMP COMPANY Their innovation turns business around

26 MISSISSIPPI MADE: The Great Mississippi Tea Company

30 FRESH FROM THE FARM: 4-Bulls Meats, Seafood & Deli

12 Fabulous Foodie Finds

34 RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT:

14 A Taste of Magnolia

36 CASINO DINING: :

52 Recipe/Ad Index 54 Till We Eat Again 6 • October/November 2020

Makin’ Groceries

42 CHEF DAVID RAINES: A Guide to BBQ, Beer, and Wagyu Short Ribs

44 ASHA GOMEZ: I Cook in Color

46 FROM THE BOOKSHELF: Food Memories from Jennifer Boswell

48 RAISE YOUR GLASS Spiced Rum Cider

54 DINING GUIDE: Where to Go for Holiday Takeout Meals

Better Than You Think

39 MISSISSIPPI AND BEYOND: From Slugburgers to Fine Wine

ON THE COVER: Cauliflower Gratin by Lisa LaFontaine Bynum, page 20.

SUBSCRIBE NOW for a taste of Mississippi all year long!

Only 24 for six issues! $

www.eatdrinkmississippi.com | Coo

king

As a

First

Langua

ge |

Oktoc

ty Gin

gerbre

ad Tre

Country

ats |

Bill’s

Creole

and

Old

Waver

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

ly Far

m Ham

’s | Joh

nnie’s

R2

ches

R1

Sandwi

E 9, NUMBE

cken

VOLUM

d Chi

E 9, NUMBE

R6

E 8, NUMBE

Frie

VOLUM

VOLUM

9 Tas

eat. eat.

MISS rin k. MISSdISSrIPiPnI k. MISSdISSrIPiPnI k.

ISSIP PI

ie-For

Stea

Drive-I

n | Fre

k Dep ot | Sal

vation

nch

Arm

Stor

Hermit

y Sou

per Bow

Oyster

Com

pany

l

e

eat.

eat.

Terri fic Prali Holid ne P ay an South Tec errinfles Sw

eat.

drink.

drink.

drink.

MISSISS

MISSISS

MISSISS

IPPI

IPPI

eet Pota to P ie

IPPI

Hoor

ay fo

Herb

s

Ginge with rbread Lem Sauce on

Subscribe online at www.eatdrinkmississippi.com or cut out this form and mail to us at P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130

r

Ch Streeticken Tacos

Butte Squarnut Mac sh Chees& e

April/M

2020

2019

Smok Gri eRack lled of Lam

ay 2020

nuary

ember

ber/Ja

er/Nov

Decem

Octob

Makes a great gift!

12 To-D

eat. d

Miss

issipp annu i Food al tu Ne rkey twork’s drive eat. drink

. MISS

ISSIPPI

eat. drink

. MISS

•1

ISSIPPI

•1

Thyme Lem and Loaf on Cake Water eat. drink melon Aru . MISS gu ISSI laPPISa •lad 1

b

FROM: __________________________________________ NAME __________________________________________ ADDRESS __________________________________________ CITY __________________________________________ STATE ZIP __________________________________________ PHONE __________________________________________ E-MAIL ADDRESS

MY SUBSCRIPTION

1-year $24 2-years $36

GIFT SUBSCRIPTION

1-year $24 2-years $36

PAYMENT ENCLOSED BILL ME LATER TO: __________________________________________ NAME __________________________________________ ADDRESS __________________________________________ CITY __________________________________________ STATE ZIP

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 7

{ from the editor }

Making the Most of Fall

BY REBECCA FENDING

M

oving deeper into the fall season feels like a blessing after enduring a classically steamy, scorching Mississippi summer. Indulging in the sweet cinnamon scents that seem so quintessentially “fall” helps us ease into one of the warmest seasons—and, no, I don’t mean temperature, thank goodness. Rather, fall creates a relaxing, safe atmosphere within our homes.

I’m not unique in the way I love fall as much as the next person. October, of course, harbors the beauty of leaves metamorphosing into their deep and fiery colors that soon drop once Halloween arrives. In fact, November might just be my favorite month out of the year as it rides October’s coattails. As the cold rolls in and the trees continue to burn bright with their autumnal color palette, it gently nudges us into preparing for what December’s weather pattern has in store for us. Although this year has been unpredictable, including the weather, we can always count on the “feeling” of fall.

As we hope for an end to the pandemic, one thing we surely have power over is making the most of our fall season. Whether it be by honing your kitchen skills and dreaming up new family-favorite recipes, or appreciating time with loved ones just a bit more than before, take the time to appreciate the season. For some, it may seem that all we have is time, for others, there may not be enough hours in the day. Regardless of how you measure time, autumn’s shortening days make it easy to relax in dwindling twilight.

So, how can we be sure to “make the most” of fall?

The answer will change from person to person.

For those adventurous

and outdoorsy, you may opt for hosting a backyard camping retreat. Camping out back is the perfect and inexpensive “trip” you’ve been looking for. Most times, the best part of vacationing or traveling is the change of scenery—what better change of environment than taking advantage of cooler temperatures and sleeping under the stars?

For others who would prefer to let the outdoors dwell outside of locked doors, a great way to take in fall is through home décor. Cozy up indoors next to the fireplace by treating yourself to a new favorite throw blanket, a spooky book and sweetly indulgent candle from a Mississippi owned, based and made company such as SoDelta Candle Company. Make yourself a warm, spiced beverage to complete the scene.

And the best part of fall? There’s no wrong way to enjoy it. Whether you’re a hunter waiting for deer season or looking forward to carving pumpkins and roasting the seeds, be safe as you breathe in the cool, leafy breeze and look forward to the continuation of the holiday season.

EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI (USPS 17200) is published bi-monthly by Connected Community Media Group, 10971 Four Seasons Pl. Ste. 211, Crown Point, IN 46307.

Periodicals postage paid at Madison, MS, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please mail changes of address to P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.

8 • October/November 2020

{ what’s happening }

Get Away Without Going Away (ELIVINGTODAY.COM)

F

amily vacations are a great way to bond and take a step back from the hectic schedules that accompany everyday life, but sometimes time or money (or both) make planning an elaborate trip a non-starter.

However, a staycation—a vacation you take right in your hometown—can be much less expensive and fit into nearly an amount of available time with the added bonus of skipping out on potentially stressful travel.

Consider these staycation ideas to take advantage of your local area’s attractions and prove you don’t have to go far to spend quality time together.

Visit local landmarks.

Just because it’s not a traditional vacation doesn’t mean you can’t pretend to be tourists. Start by visiting the places you recommend to friends and family from out of town or pick up a city guidebook to uncover hidden spots you may not even know exist.

Camp out in the backyard.

Camping doesn’t have to be done far from home. In fact, it can be done right in your own backyard. Pitch a tent to sleep under the stars and plan a night full of traditional camping activities like roasting s’mores, telling spooky stories by flashlight and try to identify stars and constellations.

Set up a picnic in the park.

Pack a basket with sandwiches, fruit and other treats and head to the park. You can enjoy a casual meal then take advantage of the open space for a family walk or game of tag before retreating to the playground to let the little ones expel any leftover energy.

Have a home spa day.

If you’re looking for some relaxation but don’t want to splurge on the full spa treatment, plan an at-home oasis instead. Light some candles, run a bubble bath and break out the facial masks and fingernail polish. edm

Improve Heart Health with Daily Nutrition from a Refrigerator Staple

T

aking care of your heart requires a commitment to the right routines and smart decisions, but it doesn’t have to be difficult. Simple ingredients already in your kitchen may offer powerful protection to keep your heart healthy.

For example, more than a decade of research shows 100 percent orange juice and its vitamins and minerals help to lower blood pressure and other risk factors for heart disease.

A study published in the “European Journal of Nutrition” by researchers of Eurecat, Centre Tecnològic de Catalunya in Reus, Spain, provides further support for OJ’s role in heart

health. The study determined that adults with pre- or stage-1 hypertension who drank about two cups of orange juice per day saw significant reductions in systolic blood pressure. Not only does it help in lowering blood pressure, but pure orange juice also allows for its drinkers to get the necessary vitamins and minerals they need, such as vitamin C, antioxidants and potassium.

So, pour yourself a glass or work a splash of orange juice into your cooking to brighten up your dishes and nourish your body! edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 9

VENDORS WANTED We are currently seeking magazine vendors in all areas of the state.

If you would like to sell this magazine at your business, call 601-427-5694 or email info@eatdrinkmississippi.com for more information.

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI Debbie Hansen Publisher/Editor

Debbie.Hansen@eatdrinkmississippi.com

Rebecca Fending Editor

Rebecca.Fending@eatdrinkmississippi.com

FOLLOW US! www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmississippi www.pinterest.com/eatdrinkms www.twitter.com/eatdrinkms www.linkedin.com/company/eat-drinkmississippi

Vanessa Case Account Executive

vanessa@eatdrinkmississippi.com

Julian Brunt Lisa LaFontaine Bynum Divian Conner Melissa Cookston Susan Marquez Jay Reed Contributors

b

www.eatdrinkmississippi.com

b

DROP US A LINE! Thank you for your interest in this magazine. We would love to hear from you. Please understand that letters submitted become the property of eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI and may be edited for length and clarity. E-mail us at info@eatdrinkmississippi.com, leave a comment on our Facebook page, or write to P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.

NEW ADDRESS? If you’re a subscriber and your address has changed, please let us know. The post office doesn’t provide forwarding service for the magazine and we don’t want you to miss an issue. Send your change of address to us at P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130 or e-mail us at info@eatdrinkmississippi.com.

10 • October/November 2020

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI is published six times a year by Connected Community Media Group

b P.O. Box 1663 Madison, MS 39130

b 601.427.5694

b © eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced or reprinted without written consent from the Publisher.

Advertising rates available upon request.

Subscriptions are $24 for one year.

Subscribe online or make checks payable to: eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI P.O. Box 1663 Madison, MS 39130

Here’s the deal, home + auto = savings.

Will Pat t on, Agent 3500 Goodman Road W Suite C Horn Lake, MS 38637 Bus: 662-510-8875 will.patton.w6ju@statefarm.com

*Average annual per household savings based on a 2019 national survey by State Farm® of new policyholders who reported savings by switching to State Farm.

State Farm Mutual Automobile Insurance Company State Farm Indemnity Company State Farm Fire and Casualty Company State Farm General Insurance Company Bloomington, IL

Combine home and auto and save an average of $889*. I’m ready to help you get the right coverage at the right price.

Call me for a quote.

Like a good neighbor, State Farm is there.®

4th Annual Zwillingfest The Entire Month of October, enjoy Black Friday promotions and get your holiday shopping done early!

Special events will be posted on our website: thekitchentable.com Don’t miss out!

State Farm County Mutual Insurance Company of Texas State Farm Lloyds Richardson, TX State Farm Florida Insurance Company Winter Haven, FL 2001299

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 11

{ fabulous foodie finds }

Fabulous Fall Must-Haves Perhaps the reason fall is a favorite for most people is because the we tend to migrate to the kitchen in search of warmth and snacks. During summer, standing next to the oven or hot range is possibly the last thing any home cook wants to do. So, when fall arrives, we’re happy to spend more time in

the kitchen cooking and gathering. The house even gets cozier with the wandering scents of warm spices and steaming soups as family and friends gather indoors. Here are a few kitchen accessories and appliances you need to feed your inner fall fiend.

Milk Frother What goes better with cooler weather than a rich and frothy latte?

Unfortunately, regularly grabbing a latte from your favorite coffee shop can add up each month, but fear not! Purchasing your own milk frother is a great way to get that perfect foamy texture in your cup at home. Prices range from a hand operated frother at $7.99 to an automated device at $29.99 depending on your budget, but we personally love this battery operated Aerolatte Handheld Milk Frother from Williams-Sonoma for $19.95.

Pumpkin Carving Kit Whether you’re carving a pumpkin to transform it into a jack-o’-lantern, looking to harvest your own pumpkin flesh for a recipe or even just want to roast your own pumpkin seeds, a carving kit is much needed. Not only can you use it for years to come, but this kit will make breaking into the hard exterior of the seasonal fruit a breeze. Scoop, gut and cut any way you like with this 10-piece set from Amazon for only $15.99.

12 • October/November 2020

Waffle Maker This common smaller appliance is one that many folks already have in their kitchen, but in case you don’t, you need one for this fall. Step up your weekend breakfast or brunch game by preparing pumpkin waffles, a treat that’s sure to win even the heaviest pumpkin spice critics. Not to mention that waffle makers can make more than just waffles- pop a few cinnamon rolls in the maker and have ooey gooey rolls in minutes! What better way to start a fall morning? This Hamilton Beach Non-Stick Waffle Maker can be found on Amazon for $52.99.

Ceramic Pie Plate Fall tends to be a time of entertainment centered around friends, family and food. One great accessory to have on hand to both impress your guests and make your life easier is keeping a beautiful ceramic pie plate: great for serving, even better for baking.

This 9-inch pie plate from Sur La Table comes in a variety of colors, sure to fit with any kitchen or party theme. At $44.95, this plate is built to last years and a number of occasions.

Dutch Oven Another kitchen accessory many people may already have, a Dutch oven is perfect for the fall. This heavy-duty beauty makes everything from warming, creamy soups to satisfying roasts.

Particularly great for anyone looking to make or get into braising meats, a Dutch oven works beautifully due to its ability to evenly distribute and keep in heat thanks to the seasoned cast iron. The other beautiful thing? Dutch ovens are relatively inexpensive given the amount of use you’re able to get out of it. This indigo blue Dutch oven from World Market is $59.99 and features a self-basting lid.

Glass Tea Kettle with Infuser Is there anything more satisfying than watching your tea steep? Glass tea kettles allow for you watch your tea darken as it brews to your exact taste. You can also include any other flavoring components such as fruit or other dried flavoring leaves. Treating yourself to a warming cup on a fall afternoon is the perfect way to center yourself. This glass kettle from Amazon features a stainless-steel lid and infuser, ensuring that the metal won’t rust no matter how frequently you use your kettle. It’s yours for $13.99! eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 13

Sheet Pan Dinners a Taste of to Make Your Magnolia Weeknights Winners

BY DIVIAN CONNER

B

DIVIAN CONNER is a Mississippi mama of four ‘not so little’ little ones. Coming up with recipes, trying new ones, and feeding her crew of tweens and teens is her passion. Southern recipes, easy recipes, sorta hard recipes, but always delicious recipes is what you will find on her food blog, www.divianlconner.com.

Now venturing into outdoor cooking over an open fire, Divian is fascinated with camp cooking and entertaining.

October/November 20202020 14 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER

eing a working mom, making dinner every day can be tiresome. I get off work some days and do not even want to look at the kitchen with my eyes squinted. I peek around the corner, tiptoeing slowly and let out a sigh on occasion at the thought of turning on the stove. We all have those days and we are allowed to have those days (raises skillet in the air and declares war against the refrigerator). Alas, the family still needs to be fed and, in those instances, when cooking is the last thing on my mind, sheet pan meals come to the rescue. I mean, they really can be life savers—grab handfuls of fresh veggies, a protein, your favorite seasons and plop the pan in the oven.

Now that my children have grown and are older teens, I have introduced them to cooking for the entire family. Not only do I want them to know their way around the kitchen and how to make an amazing meal, it gives them a sense of pride when they call the family to the dinner table to come and partake in their creation. The wide grins and that look of accomplishment gives me such an amazing feeling. When I decided to teach my children to cook, I gave the meal subscription boxes a try. Perfect way to get the kids cooking—everything in a box with a recipe card for the steps. My kids really took to it and I was seriously so happy with how they jumped right into it and made some culinary masterpieces.

Of course, meal subscription boxes can get pricey. After about two months, I decided to save some money and take a page out of the subscriptions book.

I headed to the grocery, with a list in hand and a week full of dinner ideas in hand. I went down the aisles, gathering everything needed for each meal.

When I got home, I grouped everything together for each dinner and placed everything in the fridge with one of my teen’s name on it… that would be the dinner for one to prepare for us that week. It was a hit. Now, once a week, I get a break from the kitchen and a kid gets that much needed experience that will surely impress some friends later in life.

Sheet pan meals are something my teens absolutely love to make and it is my go-to thing when I just do not want to spend a ton of time hanging out in the kitchen. You literally prep your food, place on the pan and then relax. The hardest part of sheet pan meals? Figuring out what to make. But, seriously, can you really go that wrong with anything you choose? My kids and I are sticklers for trying new things and food packed with flavor. When I saw the “Everything but the Bagel” seasoning at the grocer, I knew I had to make chicken with it—it was perfect. My family gave the big ol’ thumbs up and I knew I had a winner.

Now that the holidays are creeping up on us, I will definitely add this chicken to the party menu. Just think about how you can make it into appetizers by making the size smaller... everyone will love it and you will be commended for being the genius that you are. edm

SHEET PAN EVERYTHING CHICKEN WITH ROASTED VEGGIES Chicken ingredients: Boneless skinless chicken breasts/tenderloins “Everything but the Bagel” Seasoning*

and sprinkle creole seasoning, garlic and onion powder.

Squeeze lemon juice on top of the veggies and toss to coat evenly.

Vegetables: Baby Potatoes Cherry Tomatoes String Beans 1 tbsp fresh Lemon Juice Creole seasoning, to taste 1/2 tsp garlic powder ½ tsp onion powder

Bake at 375 for 30-45 minutes or until chicken is done and potatoes are tender.

Directions: Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Rinse chicken and drizzle with olive oil on both sides. Coat chicken with “Everything” seasoning and place on a sheet pan. Cut potatoes, trim green beans and place them in pan with the tomatoes. Drizzle the veggies with olive oil

*The Everything but the Bagel Seasoning has salt in it, so do not sprinkle chicken with salt before the seasoning... trust me, I found out the hard way.

Easy Honey Mustard Dipping Sauce ¼ cup mustard 2 tbsp honey ½ tsp creole seasoning Mix well and serve with your “Everything” chicken.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 15

Fall side dishes 16 • October/November 2020

BY LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM

T

he arrival of fall and cooler temperatures means it’s time to cozy up to some stick-to-your ribs comfort food. These recipes incorporate fall vegetables that may not be at the top of your list yet, but once you try them, they are sure to become new favorites. edm

you won’t want to pass up eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 17

Cauliflower Gratin

18 • October/November 2020

Mashed Rutabaga with Bacon and Cheddar Cheese

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19

CAULIFLOWER GRATIN - SERVES 6 For the gratin: 1 large head of cauliflower, broken into florets 3/4 cups shredded Parmesan cheese 1/2 cup shredded Colby-Monterey Jack cheese 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder 1/4 teaspoon Montreal steak seasoning 1/4 teaspoon thyme leaves chopped Salt and pepper to taste For the breadcrumb topping: 1 cup panko (Japanese) breadcrumbs 1/4 cup unsalted butter melted 1. Fill a large stockpot about 1/4 the way with water. Bring to a boil over high heat.

2. Place cauliflower florets in a large steam basket over the pot. Cover. Reduce heat to medium. Steam cauliflower until very tender, about 20 minutes.

3. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

4. Transfer cauliflower to a large bowl. Mash with a potato masher or ricer.

5. Stir in the cheeses, butter, garlic powder, salt and pepper to taste.

6. Transfer to a greased 8 x 8 x 2-inch greased casserole dish.

7. Combine breadcrumbs and melted butter. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spread over the top of mashed cauliflower.

8. Bake uncovered for 40-50 minutes until cheeses are melted and topping is golden brown.

MASHED RUTABAGA WITH BACON AND CHEDDAR CHEESE - SERVES 4 1 (2 lb.) rutabaga peeled, cut into 1-inch cubes 4 slices cooked bacon, chopped 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 1 teaspoon garlic powder ½ cup heavy cream 2 green onions, sliced, divided 2 cups sharp cheddar cheese grated, divided Salt and pepper to taste 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Place the rutabaga in a large microwavable bowl. Add 2-3 tablespoons of water to the bowl. Cover loosely with a lid or plastic wrap and microwave on high about 3 minutes. Stir the rutabaga, cover again, and microwave for 4 more minutes or until rutabaga is fork 20 • October/November 2020

3.

4.

5.

6.

tender.

Mash rutabaga using a potato masher or ricer.

Add the bacon, butter, garlic powder and heavy cream.

Add the green onions and 1 ½ cups of the cheese. Stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper.

Spoon the rutabaga mixture into (4) six-ounce ramekins. Top each with the remaining cheddar cheese.

Bake for 20 minutes until the cheddar on top is melted and bubbly.

STIR FRIED BRUSSELS SPROUTS- SERVES 4

2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil 1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts, tips removed and sliced in half 1 shallot, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon sesame oil 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar or cooking sherry Sesame seeds Salt, to taste 1. Heat the oil in a wok or large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat.

2. Add the Brussels sprouts, stir to coat them in the oil, then spread them out an even layer across the bottom of the pan. Let them sauté for two minutes undisturbed. Stir, spread them out again, then sauté for another three minutes until the sprouts have developed a nice, golden char on the outside.

3. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the shallots and sauté until soft, about 2-3 minutes.

4. Add the minced garlic and sauté for another 30 seconds until the garlic is fragrant.

5. Add the soy sauce, sesame oil and rice wine vinegar.

Cover the pan and let the Brussels sprouts steam for two minutes.

6. Remove the pan from the heat and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve warm.

Stir Fried

Brussels Sprouts eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 21

Shrimp ready to be shipped 22 • October/November 2020

Biloxi Shrimp Company’s Innovation Turns Business Around

BY JULIAN BRUNT

T

he pandemic has been tough on many businesses, but none have been hit harder that wholesalers that depend on big restaurant orders to survive. When restaurants were ordered to shutter, many lost the majority of their business and the future looked grim. Business is better today, although still uncertain, but many businesses saw that change was coming, and some of the changes just might be permanent.

Restaurants and wholesalers alike realized that to survive, it was not going to be business as usual. Innovation was the name of the game. Restaurants turned to take out menus and

added comfort food to their menus, but whole sellers had fewer choices.

But the Biloxi Shrimp Company saw an opportunity and took advantage of it. The demand for shrimp, the most popular seafood to that is caught in the Gulf of Mexico, would remain in demand. So, if you cannot sell to the restaurants, why not sell direct to the consumer? It was a bold idea and the nuts and bolts of exactly how to make it work had to be figured out, but difficult times require difficult solutions.

Machinery that cleans and deveins shrimp.

Conveyer belt of fresh shrimp about to be IQF.

Frozen shrimp being sorted. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 23

Raw shrimp on the line.

Initially, IQF (instant quick freeze) shrimp were made available for pickup three days a week at the factory loading dock. You could call your order in and when ready, drive by to pick it up, never having to get out of the car. In those first hectic days, there was often a long line of cars, but people gladly waited for locally caught shrimp that might not be available in any other way. But what about people who lived too far away to make the drive?

Marry social media with efficient and affordable shipping methods, and distance really doesn’t matter; a fact that many people have realized in many different markets. The Biloxi Shrimp Company now sells frozen shrimp in 16 states, and business continues to grow. Pick up is now limited to the last Friday of each month, and it remains a popular option, but people have realized that it is so easy and affordable to have beautiful Gulf shrimp delivered to their front door, no matter where you live.

If you worry about the quality of IQF shrimp, don’t.

Just off the boat shrimp are frozen in a matter of just a few seconds, and within a few more seconds, packaged and are ready for shipment. It is astonishing just how quickly the operation is performed.

We live in stressful times, and many people are not comfortable with the new realities that we face. But not all of the changes are negative. Many restaurants are doing much better than expected with take out, family meals and the comfort food they added to the menu. Why not order wild caught Gulf of Mexico shrimp, fresher than many people can buy it from the seafood counter at their local grocery store, delivered to your home? edm

Shrimp coming out of the IQF machine.

Shrimp just seconds after being frozen.

Biloxi Shrimp Company 260 Maple Street, Biloxi, Mississippi (228) 435-1911

Wearhouse of frozen shrimp.

24 • October/November 2020

Shrimp heading to be packaged. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 25

The Great Mississippi Tea Company

BY JULIAN BRUNT

I

n 2012 when Jason McDonald and Timothy Gipson started the Great Mississippi Tea Company, the outcome was far from certain, but they were confident they could pull it off. The timber farm they owned was destroyed in Hurricane Katrina, and they needed to find another way of make a living, but they wanted something that was interesting and challenging, too. They visited the Charleston Tea Plantation in South Carolina while on vacation and learned that the tea plant is in the camellia family. Camellias grow great in Mississippi, so maybe this was the idea they needed.

As with any new project, the learning curve was steep.

They had visited the Charleston Tea Plantation again, gathered as much information as they could, and the project seemed straight forward enough. The task at hand was to clear 10 acres of the property they already had, buy tea plants, water, weed and start. That’s not so hard, right?

Starting a tea farm proved to be difficult, really difficult.

The mortality rate of their first plants was extremely high, only 7,000 of the 30,000 they eventually ordered survived. It takes years for tea plants to mature to the point where their leaves can be harvested, so making a profit in the first years of business is near impossible.

Obviously, this is not a simple business to get into, and the Great Mississippi Tea Company faced many a dauting task. Jason and Timothy are very bright fellows, have worked profoundly hard and are highly respected in the American tea community. Today, the Great Mississippi Tea Company is considered by many to be the most successful tea operation in the continental USA. Even southern Mississippi’s tea expert, Mimsie Ladner, owner of the tea company “Gachi”, agrees.

“Although it’s relatively new, American-grown tea is a growing industry. In recent years, there has been a number of new growers entering the scene, with varying degrees of success.

Many of them are flying by the seat of their pants, with little knowledge of the meticulous skills it takes to make a really good cup of tea.” Mimsie explains. “Jason and Timmy set themselves apart with their dedication refining the art of tea making to produce a quality product that competes with the specialty tea regions that have been growing tea for centuries.

And their commitment and passion has not gone unrecognized; in the tea community, they are among the most respected American growers, while their tea is considered some of the best in the country.”

Their first task was to find the tea plants that would do well in Mississippi’s hot and humid climate. The tea plants that do well in the mountains of China would not do well here at all. There are only two main varieties of the tea plant,

26 • October/November 2020

Camellia sinensis. One is Chinese and one is Indian. All tea plants prefer a rich and moist soil, with full to part sun, but with in the two varieties, there are types, or genetic variations, that prefer different conditions. They caught a break when they discovered that at one time the Lipton Tea Company operated experimental tea stations all over the country, and that one had been in Poplarville, Mississippi. They visited the site and brought home two plants. Eventually they found a source, and were able to order the plants they wanted, but the first two years were a total loss and the next was not much better. There

Tim talks tea.

was so much to learn about irrigation, just knowing when to plant, knowing what supplements were needed, even figuring out how far apart the plants needed to be planted. But they learned by trial and error. They even ended up selling their beautiful home and downsizing to save money.

Once they had enough plants in the ground, and they were mature enough to harvest, a new learning curve began. They had to learn how to harvest, and they had to learn how to process the leaves into specific teas.

Harvesting, at least at first, was done by hand. A full day of picking by hand harvests just over two pounds of leaves.

But you don’t just go out there and start plucking tea leaves. If you are going to make green tea, you harvest two leaves and a bud. If you want to make oolong, then it is the third, through sixth leaf and for black tea, its three leaves and a bud. It is a complicated business. But remember, the tea they were trying to grow is no what you buy at the grocery store for iced tea.

They were looking to get into the fine tea market. If you want to get an idea of how many different types of tea there are in the world, look at the Imperial Tea Court web page. There are hundreds, and each is different. Some teas go for a few dollars an ounce, other cost thousands. The tea world is like the wine world, its not just reds and whites, and just like in wine, a tea expert is called a “sommelier”.

Shrimp heading to be packaged.

The Tea Shack. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 27

The teas that we tasted.

Tea leaves drying.

28 • October/November 2020

Tea farm sign.

After the leaves are harvested, they must be processed into the style of tea you are trying to make and there is a science to those processes as well. Each type of tea, and there are four main varieties (green, oolong, black and Pu’erh (poo-air)), requires a different technique. The process of making tea from harvested leaves can involve drying, spinning, rolling, oxidizing, steaming, carding and more. It is not a recipe that is just figured out. They took classes, did research, and finally got the recipes right.

The Great Mississippi Tea Company has one of the only USDA certified tea processing plants, and they call it the “Tea Shack”. It is unassuming, from outward appearances, but once inside the image changes. There are three rooms, each specializing in a different process, like drying or rolling. Again, it is a complicated business, and the Tea Shack looks like a scientific lab.

I am by no means a tea expert, but I do love a good cup of tea, thanks to my friend Norwood. James Norwood Pratt is considered by many in the field to be America’s expert on tea. His first book on tea, “A Tea Lovers Treasury,” came out in 1982. Norwood taught me that good tea was a very special thing indeed. A cup will stimulate you, but with out the ragged edge that coffee can cause. I find it perfect for the early afternoon pick-me-up.

My experience with tea is certainly limited, and I relied heavily on Jason and Timothy for tasting notes, but the six teas we tried while on this visit were grand. Each kind of tea requires a different brewing method, different temperature and different brewing time. The first tea we tried was a green tea, called Mississippi Queen. It was a bit grassy, in a lovely way, was not bitter in the slightest and very smooth. Yellow tea was next; it is a fermented tea called Mississippi Sunshine. It was similar to the green tea but lacked the grassy quality. Oolong was next, a buttery and slightly floral tea. Black Magnolia had a delightful sweet potato flavor, not strong, but just enough to be delightful—my favorite.

Next were two flavored teas, an adaptation that is popular in the U.S. We tried a smoked tea, with peach and vanilla flavors, and Earl Gray style tea that was sharp with orange, lavender and sage.

The Great Mississippi Tea Company is going places.

The first year they were in production, they ended up with 40 pounds of processed tea. Last year it was 500 pounds. Today, they sell tea in 19 states and in a famous tea shop in London. They have also won many awards, including two silver medals at the Global Tea Championship in 2018 and 2019.

Check out their website, greatmsteacompany.com, to learn where to buy their tea and to see what is going on at the farm. Tours of the farm are also available, contact the farm for further information. edm

Jason holding forth on tea. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 29

{ fresh from the farm }

4 Bulls Meats, Seafood & Deli

BY JULIAN BRUNT

I

t’s funny how we come full circle with the passage of time. In my youth, farm-to-table and seasonal fruits and vegetables were the only option. There were no cherries or pears out of season. Locally sourced was what you could find, especially if you lived in a smaller town. Where did you buy chickens for the freezer? You had to know the farmer who would not mind culling his flock of a few hens that were not laying like they should. And you just knew that the butcher held back the best cuts for his friends and favorite customers.

Now, you would be hard pressed to find a butcher at all, unless of course, you live in Ocean Springs.

Just a few months ago, a butcher shop opened in town, and I was excited to visit. I wondered if it was going to be a gimmick of some sort, buying pre-packaged meats and trying to give the impression of a real butcher, using butcher paper and scales more for ambiance than anything else, but was I wrong.

Roy McKenzie is a master butcher and has been in the business for many years. He can talk trade if you want to, explaining the difference in USDA select, choice and prime (you do know, right?) or explaining why and for how long different kinds of meat have to hang and answering any other question you might have. His store of knowledge is vast, and he does not mind taking the time to answer your questions.

On my most recent visit, I watched McKenzie explaining the

Muffeletta.

30 • October/November 2020

difference to a little old lady between a New York strip and a fillet, and telling her that she did not have to buy prime to get the best—his filets were so good, he was sure she would be happy with choice. He saved the lady a few dollars along the way. It’s just that kind of shop and McKenzie is that kind of merchant.

The shop is slick, has a nice deli and three big meat counters. One has sausages (some house made) Wagyu tomahawk steak. and prepared meats, another has a selection of choice and prime cuts of beef, all Certified Black Angus, but the third counter is the showstopper. It is loaded, and I mean loaded, with American wagyu beef. Not only is it American, it is locally raised, from a south Mississippi operation called Bar 2 L Wagyu. There are a few places around where you can get better cuts of meat, but nothing beats wagyu for flavor and tenderness. Wagyu means “Japanese beef ” in Japanese and

Selection of sausages. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 31

Four Bulls reuben sandwich. sometimes it’s known by the area it comes from, like Kobe or Omi. What makes it so good is its fat content (fat equals flavor, if you did not know). Good wagyu has such a high fat content, that if you rub your finger around and around on one spot, you will melt a hole in the meat. No kidding!

There is a difference between the best American and Japanese wagyu, but many experts say that American wagyu is just better suited to the American pallet, and they are about the same. The Japanese have their own grading system, ranging for a score of 1, poor, to 5, which is excellent. You might have heard of wagyu being graded A5, with the five meaning it is the best, but the letter A refers to how much the yield is from the carcus (72 percent or better for A).

As with all good things, there is a trade-off: wagyu is not cheap. But let me assure, wagyu is so good, it is going to change the way you think about and eat beef. Years ago, a chef friend invited me to try the wagyu he had selected for his fine dining restaurant. It was so incredibly good that I have refused to buy 32 • October/November 2020

regular choice or select steaks from the grocery store since. I would rather pay a handsome sum for an amazing steak and eat it less often, than dine on something I know is of inferior quality but a whole lot more affordable. I would vote for quality over quantity every time. But that is just me, I am a bit on the finicky side.

Another interesting feature of 4 Bulls meat selection is the variety of cuts available. On the day of my visit, I saw ground beef, tomahawk steaks, filets, briskets and sirloins, and that was in the wagyu section. You are going to find cuts here from nose to tail.

The deli menu features sandwiches, subs, wraps, salads and muffulettas, all freshly made-to-order. I tried the muffuletta and it as delightful as this Italian influenced sandwich, which came to us by way of New Orleans of course, can be. The best seller is the 4 Bulls Special, made with half a pound of roast beef, Swiss cheese and Dijon mustard, on a six-inch sub. It is a two-hander and I would not hesitate to share it with a friend!

Other best sellers are the 4 Bulls Club, made with ham, Cajun turkey, roast beef, bacon and cheddar cheese, and come dressed and pressed. Other popular deli selections are the regular roast beef and the house-made smoked tuna dip. There is also a daily special. On the day of my visit, it was The World’s Greatest Tuna Wrap with a side of chips, whole for $8.99, half $5.99.

A new addition to the shop is fresh seafood. On my visit, I saw some good-looking fresh oysters and boiled shrimp. There is also a good and growing selection of spices, sauces, marinades and rubs. Check out the Caroline Style BBQ seasoning, Smokehouse Mesquite BBQ seasoning and the Old Canadian Chicken rub. If you want to fill your freezer, 4 Bulls also has deals on bulk purchases. Give them a call for details.

If you are a serious foodie, then 4 Bulls is going to be a place that you will enjoy spending some time. Ask Roy McKenzie a few questions, check out the daily special and take a long, slow look at the wagyu.

Wagyu New York strip.

4 Bulls Meats, Seafood & Deli 2501 Bienville Blvd Ste 4, Ocean Springs (228) 334-5215 edm

Club.

Outside of building. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 33

Makin’ Groceries

BY JULIAN BRUNT

I

am not sure what the “Mad Potter of Biloxi,” George Ohr, would have thought of Lauren Turner’s instance on turning away from Coast culinary traditions, but my guess is he would have loved it. George was a non-conformist; he would have been delighted to see a blooming chef opening her first brick and mortar restaurant and insisting on serving healthy and delicious food that was also affordable. Turner, like Ohr, is a person of strong opinions.

You won’t find anything fried here, and it is a plant-based café, but the menu will be familiar to you. It’s loaded with items like tacos, shepherd’s pie, white bean stew and even General Tso, all vegetarian friendly. Even with reduced hours because of the pandemic, business is booming, so the Turner’s gamble seems to be paying off.

If you have never visited the Ohr O’Keefe Museum of Art, now is the time to do so. With any luck at all, a cool and less humid fall will linger and the bricked patio, shaded by lovely live oaks, is a delightful place to sit and enjoy lunch.

The museum was designed by architect Frank, in what he called “dancing under the oaks,” and the galleries are ladened with Ohr’s work and that of other interesting artists. There is a new piece of sculpture on the front lawn by Vivien Collens, called “Blue Circuit,” which is worth a good look. The third Thursday of each month is After Hours, featuring music, drink and good food. The Ohr is also hosting a growing number of classes and concerts from beer making class, to an outside gumbo class is coming soon.

There’s plenty to see and do, but don’t forget to visit Makin’ Groceries Café and all it has to offer. The General Tso dish typically consists of chicken, but Turner makes it with cauliflower and bok choy. The shepherd’s pie, a classic English comfort food dish, is made with lentils, a protein-packed meat alternative.

The enchiladas are stuffed with sweet potatoes and black beans, both mineral and vitamin-rich sources of protein. On

34 • October/November 2020

Chef Lauren Turner, from the Makin’ Groceries Facebook page. my last visit, the cold case was stocked with chocolate mousse pie, Thai quinoa salad, parfait and truffle pesto hummus. It’s as creative a menu as you will find anywhere.

Lauren Turner offers take home meals, where for a reasonable price you can serve your family tomato pie, yellow vegetable curry, red beans and vegan sausage, to mention just a few possibilities. Turner also offers a daily hot plate special that is just $8.00, a deal that’s hard to beat along the Coast.

General Tso was the special on the day of my visit. Tuesday is

Taco Tuesday, Wednesday is spinach and mushroom stuffed spaghetti squash and Friday is sweet potato and black bean enchilada. The menu also features breakfast snacks, soups and desserts.

George Ohr was all about being unconventional and very creative at the same time, and Lauren Turner’s Makin’ Groceries, fits in perfectly. Head to the Ohr for a day’s outing and discover the fresh and nutritious eats at the café. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 35

Casino Dining: Better Than You Think

BY JULIAN BRUNT

P

eople tend to equate big, elaborate buffets with the casino dining experience, and it is true, the casinos have amazingly good buffets. But did you know that some people go to the casinos not to gamble, but for a culinary experience you would be hard pressed to find anywhere else? For example, The Beau Rivage Resort and Casino in Biloxi has 12 dining options and the IP Casino Resort Spa has eight. If you combine all the dining options just in the Biloxi casinos, all with in a few minutes’ drive from each other, there is no shortage of options, and each one is unique.

You will find a variety of dining experiences at the casinos, from coffee shops, to Asian restaurants, Italian, diners and some amazing burgers, milkshakes and sweets.

These choices are all pretty cool, but in my opinion, the fine dining options (more often than not called “steak houses”) are the real culinary highlight of the casino experience. Now, do not think that I am talking about some snobby place where it is difficult to get reservations, or has a French matri’d with his nose up in the air, nope, far from it. What you are going to find is extraordinary food in a beautiful environment, and first-class food and service.

Fine dining at a casino is a different world, but in a wonderful way. The kitchens are huge and have the best

Clams and pasta at Stalla.

36 • October/November 2020

Chef Kristian Wade. equipment possible and prepare the best ingredients. I have had Japanese wagyu beef and fresh fish that had been overnighted from the Mediterranean at the casinos.

Stalla, at the Beau, has an imported hand cranked slicer, made especially for Prosciutto de Parma, perhaps the most famous cured ham in the world. Some have sommeliers, all have wonderfully trained staffs in the kitchen and in the front of the house too. This is a far different world from the privately owned business that must make do on a budget that is miniscule in comparison.

A common theme at the best casino restaurants is an unwillingness to take short cuts. All of the stocks and sauces are house made. Many, like BR Prime at the Beau and Thirty-Two at the IP, make much of their own charcuterie. Using the finest ingredients and making everything from scratch is a huge difference. But the

Double done pork chop, Magnolia House.

Chef Matt, 32.

Example of exciting presentation at the table, 32.

Chef Adrian Halpaus , Mignons.

Pork loin dish at the Beau, by chef Kristian Wade, using locally sourced pork. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 37

one overriding factor that you will find is a profound passion for what they are doing.

These are chefs and restaurant teams who live for what they do and are immensely proud of their restaurants.

The chefs that run these wonderful restaurants are some of the best in the country. Chef Kelly English is head at the Magnolia House at Harrah’s. He owns two internationally respected restaurants in Memphis and was 2009 Food and Wine Magazine’s “Best New Chef.” Chef Adrian Halpaus runs Mignons at the Palace, a restaurant that has been awarded the Wine spectator’s “Award of Excellence,” for 13 consecutive years. Chef Matthew Kallinikos is head of Thirty-Two, a AAA Four Diamond restaurant and has also been recognized by the Wine Spectator’s Award Excellence. Executive Chef Kristian Wade, of the Beau, has more accolades that this story can recount, but they do include finishing second at the 2017 World Food Championship and first place in the World Championship of Gumbo in New Iberia in 2004.

When you head to the Mississippi Gulf Coast, and decide to include a meal at the casinos, take a look at the buffet if you want, but if you are interested in a first class experience, then look around a little more. Carter Green at Island View, Doe’s Eat Place at Margaritaville Resort (not technically a casino, but in the same class) and the places I have mentioned above, are all truly great restaurants. But remember, it may be called a steak house, but it is a refined dining experience that you are not going to find any other place in the South.

Take your time, order a few small plates to start with, talk to your server and enjoy the ambiance. This is going to be a very special occasion indeed. edm

Carter Green dining room.

Scallops and bone marrow at Thirty-Two. 38 • October/November 2020

{ mississippi & beyond }

From Slugburgers to Fine Wine

BY KATHY K. MARTIN

C

orinth native Matt Hedges still raves about his hometown’s famous “slugburgers” even though he has moved away and moved on to importing fine wine for a living. He may live in Fort Worth, Texas now, but he treasures many favorite memories of his home state.

“Growing up in small-town Mississippi I remember always

being outside exploring with friends, devouring homemade fried chicken, and of course, tailgating in the Grove,” says Hedges, who was named one of Wine Enthusiast’s “Top 40 Under 40 Tastemakers” in 2016.

Over 16 years ago, he founded Vino del Sol, which is known as the Argentine wine specialist, but also markets exceptional wines and sakes from California, Chile, Japan and New Zealand. His company works exclusively with wineries that are estate-grown, sustainably-farmed and family-owned, which he says ensures long-term sustainability of their shared business.

Originally, his interest in Argentina grew through his close bond with his childhood next-door neighbors in Corinth, Argentinian natives Osvaldo and Marta Hans. His passion flourished even more when he spent a semester in Buenos Aires during his undergraduate years at Vanderbilt University and he

wanted to find ways to tie the U.S. and Argentina together into a career. “Importing Argentine wine made a lot of sense, especially since it seemed to be an exploding category,” he says, due to its celebrated Malbec grapes.

The company’s mission, he says, is to be the trusted source for great wine as a leading importer of terroir-driven wines that over-deliver in value. With 15 employees all over the U.S. and two in Argentina, their products are sold in all 50 states with production at 2 to 2.5 million bottles a year. Some of the company’s wines, such as Zolo Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Gen5 Cabernet Sauvignon are available in restaurants, but the company also maintains a strong presence in retailers across the entire state of Mississippi.

“Our Southeastern sales manager visits the market every year and visits retailers across the state to ensure that customers are able to get our wines at their local retailers so they can enjoy them at home,” Hedges states.

Top brands in the market are Zolo, Gen5, Tapiz, Altocedro and Lamadrid, but retailers can purchase every wine in their portfolio through special order.

After graduating from Vanderbilt in 2002, Hedges attended Ole Miss for graduate school, where he says the business school supported him wholeheartedly. “Without the Ole Miss business school, Vino del Sol would never have existed,” he says. Professors allowed him to shape his classes

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 39

40 • October/November 2020

around his business model of importing Argentine wine and they helped him develop his business plan. The university sent him to the Wake Forest Elevator Competition, which was similar to the show “Shark Tank” today. “We won that competition, which gave us the prestige to find investors,” says Hedges, “and a large percentage of whom I’m proud to say are Ole Miss alum.”

When he officially launched his business, he worked for about seven years in Argentina and then became established in Fort Worth for the past 10 years.

Even though most of his family resides in Nashville and he has been away from Corinth for many years now, he still visits his brother, Bubba, as well as his uncle and aunt, Joe and Cindy Vann. He also spends a week each year at Pickwick Lake. He says that growing up in a small town gave him lots of freedom and time outdoors. “It was amazing history being in a Civil War town that even as a child was fascinating.” He recalls finding Civil War bullets in the dirt and staying at a friend’s house, which was the former headquarters of war generals and a place they thought was haunted.

Hedges toasts his hometown today with a glass of Zolo Chardonnay, which he says would pair nicely with a Mississippi slugburger or plate of fried chicken. edm

Tips from Vino del Sol’s Brett Wells, vice president of sales support and purchasing: 1. Try exploring one country at a time.

2. Buy 2 or 3 wines from an area.

3. The single most important factor in predicting what a wine will taste like is knowing the type of grape it is made from.

4. Try. Try. Try. Never stop trying new varietals and wine-making styles.

5. Understand and remember that each vintage may taste different— slightly or significantly. Do not break up with a favorite wine because one vintage didn’t live up to your expectations.

6. Do your own research—read wine blogs, articles, tasting notes and winery websites so that you can better understand which regions, varietals and styles you prefer and which ones you might not.

Choosing a good wine is completely subjective. It is a personal exploration and journey in taste.

Do you prefer delicate, bold, sweet, tart or even spicy? Your local retailer can offer advice and guide you in the right direction.

Every country has unique labeling requirements for wine—New World lists the varietal, such as Chardonnay or Malbec. Old World lists the specific place it comes from such as Bordeaux or Burgandy.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 41

Chef David Raines: A Guide to BBQ, Beer and Wagyu Short Ribs RECIPES BY CHEF DAVID RAINES, INTRODUCTION BY REBECCA FENDING

I

n the June/July 2020 issue of EDM, we featured a piece that put Chef David Raines in the spotlight.

This multifaceted chef is the mind behind The Flora Butcher—a butcher, well, in Flora, MS. With nearly every cut of meat imaginable, Chef Raines specialty and the Flora Butcher’s claim-to-fame is the locally raised American wagyu beef.

From filets to rib eyes, wagyu beef is well known for its quality. Such high-quality meat can be intimidating to make at home. However, Chef Raines has a recipe for smoking an English Style Wagyu Short Rib. Smoking this piece of meat is the best way to both preserve the quality and flavor of the meat, while putting in minimal physical cooking effort.

And what better way to honor a quality meat than with a homemade barbecue sauce or rub? Just because summer is over doesn’t mean that barbecuing has to stop. Chef Raines

HOPPY BBQ SAUCE FOR CHICKEN AND PORK 2 cups Chili Sauce 1 Cup Ketchup 1 can Hop Fiasco (Lucky Town Brewery) ½ cup Fanta (aka Orange Drink) 1 ¼ cup Molasses 2 ounces Dijon Mustard 2 ounces Soy Sauce 1 Tablespoon Tabasco ½ teaspoon Cayenne Pepper 2 Tablespoon Chili Powder 2 Tablespoon Sweet Smoked Paprika Stir everything together thoroughly, pour into a pot and then bring to a simmer on the stovetop. Stir often and wait until it has reduced by about half. Check for consistency and seasoning and then chill. I usually end up with a little under a quart of sauce from this recipe.

42 • October/November 2020

has included his guide to creating mouthwatering barbecue seasonings at home for chicken, pork and beef. Whether you prefer dry rubs to let the moist and juicy quality of the meat shine through, or you prefer the richness of a barbecue sauce for dipping or smothering, Chef Raines has you covered here.

BBQ SAUCE FOR BRISKET AND BEEF RIBS 1 medium Onion, minced 4 cloves Garlic, minced 1 ½ tablespoons Olive Oil 5 cups Ketchup 1 can Ballistic Blonde (Lucky Town Brewery) ½ cup Apple Cider Vinegar 3 Tablespoons Worcestershire Sauce 2 Tablespoons Dijon Mustard 1 cup Dark Brown Sugar 1 ½ Tablespoons Sweet Smoked Paprika 2 teaspoons Onion Powder ½ teaspoon Crushed Red Pepper 2 teaspoons Ground Black Pepper In a pot, gently sauté the onion and garlic in the olive oil until translucent and fragrant. Add the remaining ingredients to the pot and mix well. Bring to a simmer and let the sauce reduce by about half. With a stick blender, puree the sauce to give in a smoother consistency and then check for consistency and seasoning before you chill it. Makes about a quart.

BBQ CHICKEN RUB ½ cup Sweet Smoked Paprika ½ cup Light Brown Sugar 2 Tablespoons Kosher Salt 1 Tablespoon Chili Powder 1 Tablespoon Onion Salt 1 Tablespoon Granulated Garlic 2 teaspoons Ground Celery Seed 2 teaspoons Ground Coriander 1 teaspoon Cayenne Pepper 1 teaspoon Ground Black Pepper

PORK RUB 3 cups Brown Sugar 3 cups Granulated Sugar 2 cups Sweet Smoked Paprika 1 cup Kosher Slat ½ Cup Onion Salt ½ cup Celery Salt ½ cup Chili Powder 3 Tablespoons Ground Mustard 1 Tablespoon Ground Ginger 1 Tablespoon Cayenne Pepper

BEEF RUB 1 cup Kosher Salt 1 cup Ground Black Pepper 4 Tablespoon Light Brown Sugar 2 Tablespoon Sweet Smoked Paprika 1 Tablespoon Granulated Garlic 1 Tablespoon Onion Powder 1 Tablespoon Chili Powder 2 teaspoon Ground Cumin 1 teaspoon Cayenne Pepper

ENGLISH STYLE WAGYU SHORT RIB RECIPE: When smoking this English Style Wagyu Short Rib, we start by spreading a thin layer of yellow mustard on the surface. Next, we apply a relatively thin layer of our beef rub and then let it sit in the cooler/ fridge overnight. This keeps the rub intact as it cooks and the fat renders.

On your smoker, set the temperature to 275 degrees and smoke until about 200 internal temp. If you are doing it the day before, smoke it till 165 and then heat it up for 2 hours at 275 degrees.

Check out theknightbutcher.com for info on all our offerings!

• meats • jerky • fudge

• lunch daily • deli trays • catering

A must-do when visiting Laurel!

520 CENTRAL AVE, LAUREL, MS 601-651-2054 • theknightbutcher.com

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 43

Asha Gomez “I Cook in Color”

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ

A

sha Gomez, an Atlanta-based chef, author and entrepreneur, has written a new cookbook, I Cook in Color: Bright Flavors from my Kitchen and Around the World. The book is co-authored by Mississippi chef and cookbook author, Martha Hall Foose. Both women have a long list of accolades.

Asha Gomez has been featured in many New York Times spreads and has multiple James Beard Award nominations.

Raised in the Indian state of Kerala, she moved to Michigan with her family when she was a teenager. Asha has made her home in Atlanta for the past twenty years, where she has had a successful restaurant, “Cardamom Hill”, and a self-described “Indian patisserie,” “Spice to Table”. She has now crafted a life she wants as a mom, author, entrepreneur and consultant.

Third Space is Asha’s current location in Atlanta, where she holds her popular supper clubs, as well as a venue for events and cooking classes.

Martha Hall Foose, a native of Greenwood, Mississippi, is the former Executive Chef of the Viking Cooking School where she oversaw development of recipes and menus taught to over 67,000 students. She is a James Beard Awardwinning author of the best-selling cookbooks Screen Doors & Sweet Tea and A Southerly Course. She also coauthored Gomez’s last cookbook, My Two Souths, released in 2016.

“My agent put Asha and me together,” says Martha. “My Two Souths was southern-focused, and my agent thought we would be a good fit for a collaboration. Asha is such a worldly person, and she travels so much. She wanted to show how she cooks in her kitchen every day.”

In the introduction of I Cook in Color, Asha says that even though she has spent more of her life as an American than not, “... some folks, at first glance of me in an apron, make a hasty judgement that my kitchen must smell of curry all the time. Well, a couple of nights a week, they might be right, but on the whole, my kitchen smells of whatever inspires me.”

44 • October/November 2020

Asha says she is inspired by the brilliant colors of her childhood home of Kerala, from ombre shades of blue out across the Arabian Sea, to the vermillion and mahogany shades of ground chilies and the verdant tea estates in the mountains rolling in green and umber. And now, sugar baby watermelons with pink hearts exposed take her to a long, sultry Georgia summer, while fresh white cream propels her to visions of fluffy desserts.

“This new book was actually started years ago, through the process of working on My Two Souths,” says Martha. “It’s an extension of the same conversation.” There is a story behind most great recipes, and Asha’s recipes are no different. “We talked a lot on the phone,” says Martha of the creative process in writing the book. “With each recipe, it was like a game of forty questions. I asked her what the recipe reminded her of, and I asked her to tell me about that period of her life. I like figuring out what makes people tick, and I enjoy the process of collaboration, so the overall experience was quite rewarding.”

The book is divided into nine chapters, covering recipes

Photo by Patrick Heagney. from “Colorful Drinks to Sip and Savor” and “Bright Salads,” to “Vivid Vegetables and Rice Dishes,” to “Gorgeous Desserts and Sweets.” Separate chapters are devoted to seafood, poultry, well-seasoned pork, goat and lamb dishes and beef and venison dishes from around the world.

The recipes are inspired by Asha’s childhood, her extensive travels and friends she’s made from around the world, and the flavors found in the deep South. The recipe for the Thai Green Papaya Salad in the book comes from time spent with Faye Poone, a fellow chef from Thailand, who taught Asha how to make a proper Thai salad in her own kitchen. Travels to Italy inspired her Sourdough Panzanella Salad. While Cajun and Low Country seafood boils are popular in the South, Asha spices it up with her tandoori spice masala.

I Cook in Color will be released October 6 by Running Press, an imprint of Perseus Books, LLC, a subsidiary of Hatchett Books. edm

PERFECTLY

DEDEDERLICIOU&S TEARN ANTE GU

GET THE OMAHA STEAKS CLASSIC

INTRODUCTORY PRICE:

12999

$

4 (5 oz.) Butcher’s Cut Filet Mignons 8 (4 oz.) Boneless Pork Chops 4 Boneless Chicken Breasts (1 lb. pkg.)

4 (4 oz.) Omaha Steaks Burgers 8 (3 oz.) Gourmet Jumbo Franks 4 (3.8 oz.) Individual Scalloped Potatoes 4 (4 oz.) Caramel Apple Tartlets Omaha Steaks Seasoning Packet $296.87* separately

PLUS 4 MORE BURGERS

& 4 MORE

E CHICKEN BREASTS FRE

*Savings shown over aggregated single item base price. Limit 2 pkgs.

Free gifts must ship with #64185 Standard S&H will be added. Expires 10/31/20. ©2020 Omaha Steaks, Inc.

ORDER NOW! 1.866.355.6029 ask for 64185LQM www.OmahaSteaks.com/meals741

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 45

{ from the bookshelf }

Will Today’s Meals Yield Precious Memories in the Future?

By Jennifer Boswell

I

n my mind’s eye I can still see the dining room in my grandparents’ house. Tall ceilings, wood paned windows, white gauzy curtains moving gently in the summer breeze. In the center of the room was a handcrafted wooden table laden with the garden’s bounty of tomatoes, squash, peas and corn next to a platter of oven fried chicken or pot roast. Homemade biscuits or cornbread and a simple dessert completed the picture of culinary comfort that permeates my fondest memories to this day.

When asked about their favorite or memorable food experiences, many people will recall meals at their grandmother’s table as among the most treasured. What is it about Grandma’s cooking that makes it so special? Is it the scratch-made dishes, the comfort of being in the presence of someone who loves us unconditionally, or the nostalgic memories of a time when our lives seemed simpler? It could be a combination of all three.

There’s just something about our grandmother’s cooking that, for many of us, is unparalleled by food that comes from delicatessens, the grocery store frozen food section, or the local drive-thru (not that there’s anything wrong with indulging in any of these on occasion). Because of the ease and availability of such foods, it makes me wonder if the current and future generations will reminisce about Grandma’s biscuits, tea cakes, dumplings, fruit cobblers and many other cozy, comforting favorites. Is anyone teaching young people how to cook these days? Many people are too busy with work, families and other responsibilities to learn how to make complicated dishes, let alone have the time and energy to teach them to someone else.

That’s certainly understandable, but could it deprive today’s young people of delicious memories somewhere down the line?

Possibly.

But there is hope. In recent years, there has been a return to farm-to-table dining, and with the recent pandemic, many families have taken up home cooking again. I believe there will be delicious and memorable meals cooked in kitchens around the world that will sustain generations to come, and recipes will be shared and treasured. In an effort to blend the past with the present, today’s cooks can combine convenience foods with

46 • October/November 2020

fresh ingredients to prepare dishes that taste like they’re made “from scratch.” For busy families and career folks, this solution would provide quick and easy meals when time is short.

Recipes for such dishes abound on the internet, and for those who still like to hold a hard copy in their hands, bookstores usually have a plethora of cookbooks and magazines for all levels of cooking skill.

A go-to dessert in my kitchen, which, in my opinion, tastes better than its scratch-made counterpart, is peach cobbler.

Made with three ingredients, it couldn’t be simpler and receives rave reviews when I cook it. I like to think it will make a sentimental appearance in the memories of friends and family somewhere down the line.

Perhaps the most important ingredient in Grandma’s – or anyone’s – kitchen is the desire to nourish a person’s body and soul. By preparing delicious and nutritious meals in a creative and efficient manner, we can satisfy appetites and have more time to spend with family or do the things we enjoy. Isn’t that the best of both worlds? edm

Easy Southern Peach Cobbler 1 box yellow cake mix 4 cups fresh peaches, peeled, chopped and sweetened to taste (or two 15 oz. cans sliced peaches in heavy syrup) 2 sticks melted butter

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray a 9x13 baking dish with non-stick spray. Place peaches in dish. Sprinkle dry cake mix over peaches. Pour melted butter evenly over cake mix.

DO NOT STIR. Bake 35-40 minutes or until golden. Serve with a scoop of vanilla ice cream

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 47

{ raise your glass }

Autumn in a Glass: Spiced Rum Cider

BY REBECCA FENDING RECIPE INSPIRED BY AUTUMN SPICED RUM CIDER COCKTAIL FROM HONEYANDBIRCH.COM

I

s there a more quintessentially fall beverage than apple cider? Sure, there’s various spiced coffees, hot chocolate or even tea, but for most of us, apple cider has been a staple for this cooler season since we were kids. And who doesn’t love the comfortable feeling of nostalgia when it comes to the brewing holiday season?

This recipe is apple cider all grown up. With an added layer of extra spices and the inclusion of spiced rum, it’s hard to refuse a glass. The beauty of this drink (and really, any drink) is that you can always modify it however best fits your taste. Don’t have time to add extra spice to your apple cider base? Add just a dash of ground cinnamon instead. Hate the taste of anise or nutmeg?

Leave it out. You can make this cocktail uniquely you, whether you’re making it for yourself or to serve to guests.

Indulge in fall and cozy up to this spiced rum cider.

SPICED RUM CIDER Yield: 2 Cocktail Ingredients: -1 shot (1 ½ ounces) spiced rum -1 to 1 ½ cups apple cider

48 • October/November 2020

-1 dash of nutmeg -1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice - If you’d like added spice to your apple cider: Fill a 1-quart glass jar with apple cider. Add three cinnamon sticks (or one tablespoon of ground cinnamon) and three star anise (or one half teaspoon of anise extract) to the jar. Shake well and refrigerate for two hours. Cocktail can be served with whole spices as garnish.

For the cocktail: Fill a glass (preferably a rocks glass) with your desired amount of ice. Add your spiced rum and apple cider to the glass and stir until chilled. Add lemon juice and garnish with a lemon peel and dash of nutmeg. Enjoy! *You can also make this beverage warm by heating up the measured amount in a saucepan or microwave!

Give a gift that lasts all year, a gift subscription to...

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI y

r Compan

VOLUME ER 2

9, NUMB

Only 24

. k n i r d . t eaMISSISSIPPI verly Old Wa

it Oyste

nch Herm

ve-In | Fre

nnie’s Dri

m’s | Joh

Farm Ha

$

or Hooray f

Herbs

eat. drink.

for six issues!

MISSISSIPPI

SmokeGrilled Lamb Rack of d Thyme an Lemon ke Loaf Ca

www.eatdrinkmississippi.com

lon Waterme lad I •1 ula IPPSa ugSISS Ar k. MIS

April/May

eat. drin

2020 | Coo

king

As a

First

Langua

ge |

Oktoc

ty Gin

gerbre

ad Tre

Country

ats |

Bill’s

Creole

and

Old

Waver

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

ly Far

m Ham

’s | Joh

nnie’s

R2

ches

R1

Sandwi

E 9, NUMBE

cken

VOLUM

d Chi

E 9, NUMBE

R6

E 8, NUMBE

VOLUM

Frie

Stea

Drive-I

n | Fre

k Dep ot | Sal

vation

nch

Arm

Stor

Hermit

y Sou

per Bow

Oyster

Com

pany

l

e

MISSISS

MISSISS

MISSISS

IPPI

IPPI

eet Pota to P ie

IPPI

ay fo

Herb

drink.

drink.

drink.

Hoor

eat.

eat.

Terri fic Prali Holid ne P ay an South Tec errinfles Sw

eat.

s

Ginge with rbread Lem Sauce on

Subscribe online at www.eatdrinkmississippi.com or cut out this form and mail to us at P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130

r

Ch Streeticken Tacos

Butte Squarnut Mac sh Chees& e

April/M

2020

2019

Smok Gri eRack lled of Lam

ay 2020

nuary

ember

ber/Ja

er/Nov

Decem

Octob

SUBSCRIBE TODAY!

9 Tas

eat. d eat. d MISS rin k ISSIP . MISSISSrIPiPnI k. MISSISSrIPiPnI k.

PI

ie-For

VOLUM

12 To-D

eat. d

Miss

issipp annu i Food al tu Ne rkey twork’s drive eat. drink

. MISS

ISSIPPI

eat. drink

•1

Thyme Lem and Loaf on Cake Water melon Aru . MISS gu ISSI laPPISa •lad 1

b

eat. drink

. MISS

ISSIPPI

•1

FROM: __________________________________________ NAME __________________________________________ ADDRESS __________________________________________ CITY __________________________________________ STATE ZIP __________________________________________ PHONE __________________________________________ E-MAIL ADDRESS

MY SUBSCRIPTION

1-year $24

GIFT SUBSCRIPTION

1-year $24

PAYMENT ENCLOSED BILL ME LATER TO: __________________________________________ NAME __________________________________________ ADDRESS __________________________________________ CITY __________________________________________ STATE ZIP

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 49

{ where to eat }

Where to Go for Holiday Takeout Meals

BY PAIGE MCKAY Thanksgiving might look a little different, and gatherings might be smaller this year, but that doesn’t mean we can’t enjoy a delicious meal all the same. Several restaurants around the state are still offering takeout meals, and many places have menu

items that are the perfect addition to any Thanksgiving spread.

Here are some restaurants throughout the state that are offering holiday takeout items.

Mama Hamil’s - Madison Open since 1977, Hamil’s has been a metro-area favorite for Southern comfort food classics like fried chicken, potato salad, cornbread, banana pudding and all the fixins’ of a good ole Southern meal. This holiday season, take a load off and let Mama Hamil’s do some of the cooking for your holiday gathering.

Whether you want the entire meal or just a few different dishes, their holiday catering menu includes meats, sides and desserts to choose from. Choose spiral cut, hickory smoked, or honey glazed ham or smoked turkey breast for your main meat and a side of sweet potato casserole or cornbread dressing with cranberry sauce. You also get the choice of one dessert from their daily menu. Other a la cart items include pulled pork, ribs, bread pudding, peach cobbler, banana pudding and brown gravy or giblet gravy. For catering and take-out information, call 601-856-4407 or visit hamils.com.

50 • October/November 2020

The Veranda - Starkville Known for their blue plates and soul food, The Veranda in Starkville is offering family-style takeout meals that feed up to four people for just $50. Each family style meal comes with one of their tasty entrees and three side choices. Choose an entree of fried catfish, chicken and dumplings, chicken and sausage gumbo, jambalaya and other Southern favorites. Then, pick three of your favorite sides with choices like mashed potatoes, rice, turnips, fried okra, fries, green beans or sauteed squash and zucchini. You also get your choice of blackberry or peach cobbler, a gallon of tea and cornbread.

Or, if you want to order individual meals, choose from several of The Veranda’s classic appetizers, soups, salads, sandwiches and dinner entrees.

Though it would be a less traditional holiday meal for most, it would sure be a delicious one to remember. Visit verandastarkville.com or call 662-3231231 to order.

Half Shell Oyster House - Biloxi and Gulfport With locations in both Biloxi and Gulfport, Half Shell Oyster House’s takeout menu is loaded with delicious oysters, seafood and steak options that will make a unique holiday meal.

Start out with oysters for the family with choices like charbroiled, Oysters Orleans, on the half shell or a sampler.

Other starter items include crab claws, fried green tomatoes with crab cakes, crab and shrimp dip, smoked tuna dip or the tuna and crab stack.

When it comes to the main entree, the menu is seafood and fish heavy with options like Shrimp and Grits, Shrimp Orleans, Fried Shrimp, Seafood Pot Pie, Bacon and Pecan Crusted Redfish, Bourbon Maple Salmon and Seafood Pasta. For the meat lovers, opt for the ribeye, filet, filet Orleans or the Big Easy Surf & Turf. To view their full takeout menu at each coastal location, visit halfshelloysterhouse.com.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 51

Recipe Index Sheet Pan Everything Chicken with Roasted Veggies, 15 Cauliflower Gratin, 20

English Style Wagyu Short Ribs, 42 Easy Southern Peach Cobbler, 46 Spiced Rum Cider, 48

Mashed Rutabaga with Bacon and Cheddar Cheese, 20

Holiday Slow Cooker Kale, 53

Stir Fried Brussel Sprouts, 20

Follow us on Instagram to see some of the tasty, local bites we’ve discovered!

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

www.instagram.com/eatdrinkmississippi 52 • October/November 2020

Holiday Slow Cooker Kale

Share your recipes!

Kale is in season October through June in Mississippi, making it the best time to give this green a chance. Although not regarded as a favorite by most people, kale is a great “set it and forget it” healthy vegetable side to have at holiday gatherings. This recipe doctors up the plant to make even the most averse give it a fighting chance.

Ingredients: 24 ounces kale, or however much you need to make 2-3 cups of chicken stock 4 cloves of garlic, crushed then minced ½ yellow onion Salt and pepper to taste

Do you have a family-favorite dinner recipe? Or a favorite dish that never lasts long at gettogethers? Eat Drink Mississippi wants to feature your recipes in future issues. Please send recipes to info@eatdrinkmississippi.com, or mail them to PO Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.

Wash and trim stems off of kale. Place in the bottom of the slow cooker. Pour chicken stock over leaves. Next, take your fresh cloves of garlic and lightly crush with the flat of a knife.

Once crushed, mince and add to the slow cooker. Chop half of a yellow onion and sprinkle over ingredients in the cooker. Add a bit of salt and pepper to start. Turn to low and cook for 6-8 hours. Top each served helping with butter, salt and pepper and enjoy!

Old Waverly Farm Ham’s | Johnnie’s Drive-In | French Hermit Oyster Company

VOLUME 9, NUMBER 2

Digital Subscriptions Available!

Herbs

SmokeGrilled Rack of Lamb

April/May 2020

Getting a taste of Mississippi has never been easier!

Hooray for eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

Access issues on all your devices.

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

Thyme and Lemon Loaf Cake Watermelon

Arugula Salad eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI •1

Visit www.eatdrinkmississippi.com to subscribe. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 53

Till We Eat Again

BILL DABNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off.

He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and writes "Eats One Ate," a weekly column in the Starkville Daily News.

October/November 54 • APRIL/MAY 2020 2020

Doing Thanksgiving Dinner Right

BY JAY REED Every fall, it seems there is a discussion about what people eat for Thanksgiving dinner.

And often that evolves (or devolves) into how what is eaten should be prepared.

There is the die-hard, “It ain’t Thanksgiving if you don’t have turkey,” camp in the ring with the, “It doesn’t matter what you eat, as long as it’s with family,” squad. Those in the first group may take it further, debating the merits of deep-fried versus smoked versus roasted and basted, and there are always a few saying, “You don’t know my family…”

I can always count on a social media thread arguing about what’s best—stuffing or dressing—as well as an article or two defining and differentiating the two. For dessert, is it essential to have pumpkin pie? Are other kinds of pie allowed? Or can someone put pumpkin in something else, like a cheesecake or ice cream? Asking for a friend.

For a significant portion of Mississippians over the past few years, Thanksgiving dinner has been served under a tent at a tailgate party. I guess turkey and dressing may make an appearance in the Grove or the Junction, but it’s just as likely to be pulled pork, pigs in a blanket and every kind of cold salad known to man. Or for some, maybe barbecue nachos are religiously sought out inside the gates. Another casualty of 2020 for those fine folks.

As I pondered these deep subjects, I asked myself, “Self? What would have happened if the Pilgrims had landed on the Mississippi Gulf Coast? What if the Mayflower had turned southward? What would we be eating for Thanksgiving today if they’d landed in Biloxi instead of Plymouth Rock?”

If you’ll allow a bit of backtracking, many of the aforementioned articles that reappear this time of year will say that much of what we consider traditional Thanksgiving fare may not have even appeared at the first meal. So, there’s that to consider. But after doing a little research (and by “little” I mean an afternoon of Googling), I’ve discovered that a beach landing on the coast of what is now Mississippi may have actually put us closer to that traditional track than you may have thought.

I’m sure I left something or someone out, but here’s what I discovered. Aside from a visit from the Spanish in the 1500s, the area we know as Mississippi wasn’t settled by Europeans until 1699, more than 75 years after the first Thanksgiving. That means the people greeting the Pilgrims as they moved inland would have been one of several Native American tribes: Choctaw, Chickasaw, Natchez or Biloxi.

Perhaps you’ve also spent an afternoon Googling this subject. (Hasn’t everyone?) If so, you’ll know it’s much easier to find info on the Choctaw, Chickasaw and Natchez peoples than there is about the Biloxi tribe. Since the Biloxi lived in… you know… Biloxi… we’d naturally assume that some sort of seafood would have been on the menu. Personally, I wouldn’t be opposed to a tradition of fried crab claws and some West Indies Salad to get Thanksgiving off to a good start.

The other three tribes seemed to have diets not just similar to each other, but also remarkably conducive to today’s traditional meal. As you might expect, they hunted for local game. So yes, that might mean venison tenderloin cooked over coals, or wild hog ribs slow cooked till they fall off the bone. (Hello, tailgaters.) But it also meant—yep, turkey.

Big Green Eggs weren’t common on Choctaw back porches, and the Chickasaw were not liable to burn down their homes trying to deep fry the birds they snared, but turkeys seemed to be plentiful.

As for sides, the same three vegetables seemed to pop up in every list: corn, beans and squash. Corn was a staple, so you know what that means: cornbread dressing wins the day. And for our family, corn casserole, assuming one could find butter, sour cream and whatever other magic is in the Jiffy mix box.

Finally, squash doesn’t just mean the primary player in squash casserole, it means pumpkin. So, there’s your dessert. Maybe crustless, maybe a little less sweet, maybe without whipped cream, but at least pumpkin.

The reality is, the Mayflower’s ocean journey was a rough one and the year that followed even rougher. On that point most historians agree. Which makes me think, if the Pilgrims had truly landed in Biloxi, they probably would have avoided the stress and eaten the buffet at the casino. edm

DID YOU KNOW? • Almost 1 in 4 Mississippians — about 690,000 people — don’t have enough to eat.

• More than 1 in 4 children (28.7%) go to bed hungry most every night.

Stomachs are growling all over the state.

Hunger is a problem all across America, but in Mississippi, it’s practically an epidemic.

DONATE NOW!

Every $1.00 donated provides seven meals to hungry Mississippians.

www.msfoodnet.org eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 55

FEED YOUR

56 • October/November 2020

visitjackson.com