Eat Drink Mississippi August September 2015

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

PERFECTLY

Peachy page 34

+ Vicari Italian Grill + Rose’s Downtown Bakery & Tearoom + Sway’s Bistro + Stromboli’s Italian Eatery + Cast Iron Cafe

Farm-to-Table

DINNER TAILGATING

Recipes Fire & Feast

BBQ COMPETITION eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

tupelo.net

2 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

i t ’s l i v e IT’S ON

Catch the full lineup @ TH E ISL EY BR OT HE RS

CHAKA KHAN

FEATUR ING RON ALD ISL EY & ERN EST ISL EY

MA CY GR AY

J A C KSO N F ES T I VA L . C O M SEB AST IAN M IK AEL TM

21.02S 00TN ATTTA ETTSEETSS ATTTA ETESEETTSR,TEJRE NO, NM, SM S 1 2 0 01N 0A. T NSE.TSS A R AETCE,KTJS,AOJCN AKC , SM KOSS M M M AM M A– TSU ARtYo 11 1 16t0o M O N DAM Y –OSN M ADO TAN UYD R–A DSY A Y 1AR 1TADU DA Y 0 APM1 1t o 1 .03P 9 68 0. 4165. 0 36 1 92 .83. 9 4themanshipjackson.com 5 .6425 6 2themanshipjackson.com 0P 1 8 themanshipjackson.com

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 3

REFRESHINGLY GOOD Mon-Sat 11-9 Sun. 10:30-2:30 601.856.3822 107 Depot Dr. Madison, MS strawberrycafemadison.com

Want to see what and where we’ve been eating lately?

Follow us on Instagram to see some of the tasty bites we’ve discovered!

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI www.instagram.com/eatdrinkmississippi 4 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

•

VOLUME 4 • NUMBER 5

2015

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER

28 25

photo by ronnie harris

“An apple is an excellent thing ― until you have tried a peach. ” • George du Maurier •

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 5

Stay informed of the latest Mississippi culinary news, events, and happenings by visiting our website. While you're there, sign up for our monthly newsletter.

www.eatdrinkmississippi.com

6 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

13

13 WHAT'S HOT

Savory Starters on the Grill

18 CHEF'S CORNER

Summertime is Tea Time for Robert St. John

20 MAKING MEMORIES

Chef Ryan Wright Prepares Meals and Creates Memories at Palmer Home for Children

23

51 FROM THE BOOKSHELF

Deep South Dish: Homestyle Southern Recipes Mary Foreman

Coffee for the Arts

54 RAISE YOUR GLASS

Cordele-Crisp County Melon Punch

56 THE HILLS

28 GROW. PICK. COOK. EAT.

60 THE DELTA

Farm-to-Table Dinner Concept Growing Strong in New Albany

38 FOOTBALL FUN

Tailgating Recipes

Vicari Italian Grill in Corinth

Rose’s Downtown Bakery & Tearoom in Yazoo City

64 THE PINES

Stromboli’s Italian Eatery in Starkville

42 IN THE BLOGLIGHT

68 CAPITAL/RIVER

44 DIVINE MUSCADINES

72 COASTAL

Rebecca Turner Nutrition

Pick-your-own Grapes at Vancleave Vineyard

48 FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND Kate Medley Tells Story of the South Through Food

54

52 COMMUNITY

26 MISSISSIPPI MADE Dixie Tea

CONTENTS 38

Sway’s Bistro in Brandon

IN EVERY ISSUE 8 From the Publisher 10 From Our Readers 14 Fabulous Foodie Finds 24 Deep South Dish 78 Events 80 Recipe/Ad Index 81 Coming to Terms 82 Till We Eat Again

Cast Iron Cafe in Vancleave

76 FEATURED FESTIVAL

Fire & Feast BBQ Competition in Yazoo City

ON THE COVER: Celebrate National Peach Month with delicious peach recipes. See page 34. Food Styling and Photography by Nikki Gladd. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 7

{ from the publisher }

F

or many, farm-to-table is a new concept. But for me, it’s the way I was raised.

I grew up on 40 acres in rural Lawrence County.

My parents both worked full-time jobs, but somehow managed to grow a garden every summer. Looking back, I don’t know how they did it. I can’t even find the time to grow a small herb garden, much less an acre of tilled rows that required almost constant watering, weeding, and fertilizing.

I generally only participated in the bounty of the garden and seldom in the cultivation. I remember one time when my momma gave me and my brothers a choice on what to do ― we could pick peas or shell them. Since I hated to shell peas, I chose picking.

It only took me about 15 minutes in the oppressing Mississippi heat to decide that shelling was a better option. I mean, I could do that inside where it’s air conditioned and watch tv at the same time. I obviously didn’t think that through before I made my original decision. My momma let me change my mind and go indoors to shell. Now that I’m a parent, I realize that she tricked me. She knew I wouldn’t pick peas, so that was an easy way to get me to shell them without complaint. Smart woman!

One of my favorite meals ― often back then and not often enough today ― is summer vegetables and homemade cornbread. It’s hard to beat fresh stewed new potatoes, fried and/or stewed squash, fried okra, pinkeye purple hull peas, butter beans, and corn.

My momma’s cornbread is hands down the best on the planet. It’s a perfect accompaniment to the vegetables and is an excellent tool for cleaning all the juices off the plate.

My family and I do something to our pinkeye purple

hull peas that a lot of folks find odd. I’ve been married to my husband for 24 years and he still can’t come to terms with the fact that we do this. We top them with a dollop of mayonnaise. It adds a touch of sweetness and tang to the peas that kicks them up just a notch. I love it so much that I simply can’t eat naked peas.

I’m overjoyed to see the farm-to-table concept excel.

It’s so important to eat foods in their freshest state and to support our local farmers. When you buy from a local farmer, you not only help yourself eat better; you keep a tradition alive, you help preserve a family heritage, you help send a kid to college, you help a family thrive, you help build your community.

I urge you to support the hand that feeds you. Head to your local farmers market and take advantage of summer’s bounty before it’s gone.

Pass the peas ― and mayo ― and let's eat!

the hungry and help those in trouble. Then your light will shine out from the darkness, q "Feed r and the darkness around you will be as bright as the day." Isaiah 58:10 EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI is published bi-monthly by Carney Publications LLC, PO Box 1051, Monticello, MS 39654-1051. Periodicals postage pending at Monticello, MS, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI, PO Box 1051, Monticello, MS 39654.

8 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

Why advertise with us?

C

M

Reach over 35,000 readers with each issue.

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

Distributed throughout Mississippi and more than 35 states.

K

Mississippi’s only magazine dedicated to the food and hospitality it’s famous for.

3720 Hardy Street, Suite 3 | Hattiesburg, MS | 601-261-2224 www.KitchenTableNow.com

For more information, call 601.756.1584 or email: info@ eatdrinkmississippi.com.

VOLUME 4, NUMBER 1

eat. drink.

MISSISSIP

G overnor's M

PI

OVER 25 DELICIOUS RECIPES

eat. drink.

VOLUME 4, NUMBER 2

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI MISSISSIPPI

ansion

at the

page 36

E 4, NUMBE

VOLUM R3

December/Ja

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

FRENCH BISTRO IN OXFORD HOME

nuary 2015

3

REAL COOKING WITH CHEF DAVID CREW S

ink.

James Beard t Receives Foundation Award for Contributions to Agriculture

MISS

BLOGG

ISSIP

CHIA-licious! rinI k. eat. d SISSIPP ER TES Kitche TED n Tool s Mis siss

ippi GREAT RECIPES PI FORCN ADDING ICS NY C •SEEDS CHIA DC • TO ATL YOUR DIET + Bish

page 22

UNIQUE HOLIDAY COCKTAILS

eat. dr FIGHTING THE FAMILY FOR FARM Ben Burket

R/JANUAR Y 2015

5

Gathering

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

MEET THE MACARON MAVEN

DECEMBE

eat. drink. MISSISS

IPPI • 1

PI

APRIL

/MAY

2015

Craw

eat. drink.

fish

IVALS

IPPI

MISSISS

February/March 2015

FEST

op’s BBQ + Yazo o Pass + J. Brou + Miss ssard's + Deli D’s Diner Diner

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

LY 2015

MIS

JUNE/JU

+ Ravine + 1933 s + Henri'

Pot Cafe + Coffee n II + The Sicilia

ay 2015

April/M

- The

CHICKNot So Odd Couple EN & W AFFLE S page

44

eat. drink

. MISS

BILOXI Shrimping

IGHTFUtsL SODA-Ler Trea Summpage 41

Trip

Culinary

eat. drink.

BUCKET

LIST

elon Waterm TIVAL FES

MISSISSIPPI

ISSIPPI

•1

Available at fine gift shops across the South

•1

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 9

{ from our readers } y

aph togr pho nt y and n bru julia

stor

by day, dreary cold and 11:30 a.m. t is a dy by seated but alreaare being h to be the only This just luncmight people r formeal up, eagehot they get today, and e walk few and seem on aand wetaand cold day like ed. Som s, be serv this car. one, that would not be a ride bike by prospect. d, some comehappy d crow others is a mixe Some areails. homeless, e prev This otypare sedworking poor, some the stere dres no and tookand worn nicelyareousl justy old is asome obvi her There who out, and some are military woman putting on , a veterans. Feed ning My Sheep her time this mor two little does not ask any questions, makeup s in with ed their come to these doors and you man walk e have stack wall, the folks mean will be fed.nst These som kids, and s agai it when they seats say theytheir are a backpack take take their to non-judgmental program, rs othe ember politely t rem to feeding the mosdedicated few are off, a in Gulfport. hungry hats d. , a tall, This kitchen cranks up re noon reminde befo s to the at 5Just a.m. with a paid staff of walk room man dedmany onlyny five.

There croware skin p incomea of the grou more that front volunteers, p is s the Sheeand leadwalks from of life, My and all nization Feed orga ed allpray are er. dedicated to the ing stian-bas same simple goal-feed no fundthe Chri ives ral is hungry. and rece or fede prayer statefoodand By 9 a.m., from ent, is being packaged for theected 350 .housegovernm r negl h isthe ared, boundneve people served by lunc y's prep Todaanother is well program and 350 to on, tantial, Henders 400 willsubs have lunch Tonyin the n as A full warehouse is maintained for emergencies. in know and Mr.dining lyroom cafeteria-style group ectionate led the up to every day.affThose are sobering el, who er, comes statistics, Ang so manyearli poor, so Camera er pray many hungry. says "Mr. to tell me andwas estarted sure emade This program , mak is hom in 1984 andMan has served that this There potofpie!"squash, hundreds of them thousands of chickeninside ,a meals, over 170,000 2014 also a and zucchini a bowl is alone. Hurricane Katrina and broccoli, n salad, looking destroyed the building gree fresh . It’s a good r in town completely and it took dine it. of soup serve some time to build it hback, and any lunc be proud to are at a different location,ld on ts wou e gues They donated land. Today, Feed But thes ng kind. but My Sheep serves more the payi be sure, t not ry to meals than most fullare service hung er is a differenI hung restaurants. you and ls. their what Feed My Sheep is asort than before mea soup kitchen at its core, butrience expe because of the generosity the of local businesses, grocery serve ers nte stores, and restaurants, so Volu many poor people, in need of gry. hun a helping hand, have a bright spot in their day.

For information on how to donate or volunteer, visit A hearty meal is served five times a week at Feed My Sheep soup kitchen in Gulfport. www.feedmysheepgulfport. org or call 228.864.2701. edm

I

ity }

mun

{ com

D the FOOG RY HUN for

rves ort Se y Gulfp eep in nches a Da My Sh Lu Feed 700 Hot Over 5

AY 201

52 •

APRIL/M

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 53

Food for thought...let’s hope the feature (April/May 2015) on Feed My Sheep in Gulfport opens ones eyes to the needs of the less fortunate. Whether in Gulfport or other towns in Mississippi, the poor are in need of a helping hand. Julian Brunt sets the stage and writes the script of a typical day at our soup kitchen. This fall we will celebrate serving our one-millionth (1,000,000) meal since reopening after Katrina in 2009.

I’m taking the liberty of repeating your timely biblical passage - Isaiah 58:10 “Feed the hungry and help those in trouble. Then

your light will shine out from the darkness and the darkness around you will be bright as the day.”

Ted Riemann Feed My Sheep Board Chairman ••• I just wanted to tell you how great eat. drink. Mississippi is. I loved the feature on Henri's (June/July 2014). I'm kind of a foodie, so I think this is a really great idea for a magazine. Glad you're doing it. Good job!

Kristen Williams Jackson ••• I really enjoy your magazine. It is a quality magazine.

Carolyn Terry Iuka

FOLLOW US!

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI J.J. Carney Publisher/Editor John Carney Executive Editor Anne Morgan Carney Executive Assistant Wendi O'Neill Advertising Executive Joe Luca Newsstand Sales Consultant

b www.eatdrinkmississippi.com

b eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI is published six times a year by Carney Publications LLC

b

4500 I-55 N, Ste. 253 Jackson, MS 39211

b

P.O. Box 1051 Monticello, MS 39654

www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmississippi www.pinterest.com/eatdrinkms www.twitter.com/eatdrinkms www.linkedin.com/company/eat-drink-mississippi www.instagram.com/eatdrinkmississippi www.foodspotting.com/eatdrinkms

DROP US A LINE! Thank you for your interest in this magazine. We would love to hear from you. Please understand that letters submitted become the property of eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI and may be edited for length and clarity. E-mail us at info@ eatdrinkmississippi.com, leave a comment on our Facebook page, or write to P.O. Box 1051, Monticello, MS 39654.

NEW ADDRESS? If you're a subscriber and your address has changed, please let us know. The post office doesn't provide forwarding service for the magazine and we don't want you to miss an issue. Send your change of address to us at P.O. Box 1051, Monticello, MS 39654 or e-mail us at info@eatdrinkmississippi.com.

10 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

b

601.756.1584

b

info@eatdrinkmississippi.com

b © eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced or reprinted without written consent from the Publisher.

Advertising rates and more information are available upon request.

Subscriptions are $24 for one year and $36 for two years.

Subscribe online or make checks payable to: eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI P.O. Box 1051 Monticello, MS 39654

Freshen Up Your Summer Party P

icnics and parties, good friends and good food - these are the things that make summertime special. Whether you’re hosting the soiree or participating via potluck, taking a unique approach to your go-to entertaining dishes is a simple way to freshen up the spread.

Garden salad: A basic tossed green salad provides nearly endless options for variations, and borrowing ethnic flavors for inspiration is a great approach. Add Kalamata olives, feta cheese, and red onions for a Greek-inspired side. Incorporate some TexMex flair with roasted corn, black beans, chopped scallions, and cheddar cheese. Enjoy an Asian adaptation with crispy wonton strips, cabbage, carrots, green onion, and chopped nuts, such as peanuts or cashews.

Deviled eggs: A staple at many social gatherings, deviled eggs are an easy way to experiment with new flavors. Simple additions to the creamy yolk filling can completely transform the taste. One unexpectedly delicious twist is the addition of a quality hummus, such as Sabra’s Lemon Twist Hummus, which combines the tanginess of juicy lemon, fresh chickpeas, a touch of garlic and tahini (ground sesame seeds), to create a smooth and creamy spread.

Upside-down cake: Summer is the perfect time to get creative with a basic upside-down cake, whether you make it from scratch or start with a box. A bounty of seasonal fresh fruit lets you explore new flavors for your cake’s topping: plump, juicy berries, plums, and peaches are all excellent choices. Mix it up even more by combining some of your favorites, such as strawberries and blueberries, or switching out the traditional white base for a fruit-laden chocolatey delight. edm

Hummus Deviled Eggs 6 eggs 1/3 cup, plus 1 tablespoon Sabra hummus 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 1/4 teaspoon salt 3 teaspoons relish Paprika for garnish Place eggs in pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Turn off heat and let sit for 14 minutes.

Remove with slotted spoon and run cold water over eggs.

Cool eggs 10 minutes.

Remove shells when cool. Cut in half and scoop out yolk and reserve in bowl of food processor. Repeat with remaining 5 eggs.

Add hummus, olive oil, pepper, and salt to yolks; purée in food processor. Add relish and pulse 3 to 5 times to incorporate.

Put yolk mixture in piping bag. (Use tall glass and fold edges of piping bag over glass to make it easier to transfer mixture.) Pipe about a teaspoon of mixture into each egg white half and sprinkle with paprika.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 11

{contributors}

JULIAN BRUNT is a food and culture writer from the Gulf Coast whose roots run more than three hundred years deep in Southern soil.

He is deeply concerned with culinary and cultural traditions and thinks no man worth his salt that cannot hold forth in tall tale and willingly endure the heat of the kitchen.

LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM is a freelance writer from Grenada. Her work has appeared in several publications in Mississippi.

She is a graduate of Delta State University where she received a BA in Marketing and her MBA. In her free time, she enjoys food writing and photography.

She currently resides in Brandon. Photo by Alisa Chapman Photography

JO ALICE DARDEN is a book editor and freelance writer. A former lifestyles editor for the Greenwood Commonwealth, she is a regular contributor to its quarterly publication, Leflore Illustrated. She grew up in Greenwood, graduated from Delta State University with a major in English, and now lives in Cruger with her husband Bob, also a writer, on his family’s farm.

NIKKI GLADD was born and raised in the Mitten State.

She has also tasted life in Tennessee, Chicago, and Southern California before feasting in Mississippi.

She is passionate for community with friends, family, and even strangers at the table, as she shares through her writings on SeededAtTheTable. com. On her blog, you will find easy recipes using everyday ingredients, along with family stories, house projects, favorite products, and travel adventures.

KARA KIMBROUGH is an Associated Press awardwinning journalist from Magee who enjoys interviewing everyone from ordinary Mississippians to celebrities. She writes a syndicated food column published in state and national newspapers. She is a restaurant reviewer and her travel, food, and lifestyle articles appear in magazines around the Southeast. She has taught Communication Studies at The University of Southern Mississippi and operates a marketing and public relations firm. She has served as a pageant judge, corporate trainer, and public speaker.

SUSAN MARQUEZ lives and writes in Madison. She

12 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

has a degree in RadioTV-Film from the University of Southern Mississippi and had a long career in advertising and marketing before stumbling into a freelance writing career in 2001. Hundreds of published articles later, Marquez still loves to tell the stories of the interesting people, places, and events throughout the South.

KATHY K. MARTIN is an Ole Miss journalism graduate who currently lives in Collierville, Tennessee with her husband and two children. She works as a freelance writer and chairs her church’s Christian writers group.

ZACK STEEN was employed in production at the Daily Corinthian in Corinth from 1999 to 2003. He returned to the Daily Corinthian in January 2014 as photographer and staff writer.

GENNIE TAYLOR, a Forest native, is the publications coordinator at East Central Community College in Decatur and a freelance writer, photographer, and graphic designer.

She is the former editor of The Demopolis Times, a five-day daily newspaper

in Demopolis, Ala., and managing editor of The Scott County Times, a weekly newspaper in her hometown. A graduate of the University of Southern Mississippi with a Bachelor’s Degree in Journalism, she has received numerous awards from the Associated Press and the Mississippi and Alabama Press Associations. She is married to Steven Taylor and they have a daughter, Mallory Grace. In her free time, she enjoys traveling, reading, and cooking.

KELSEY WELLS is a news writer at Lawrence County Press in Monticello. She is a graduate of Southwest Mississippi Community College where she served as editor of The Pine Burr. She earned her Bachelor’s degree in Communications at William Carey University and served as a staff writer and life editor of The Cobbler student newspaper until she became managing editor her senior year. She currently resides in the Divide community where she is active in her church and community.

KATIE HUTSON WEST is a freelance writer from Tupelo. She is a graduate of Mississippi State University where she earned a B.S. degree in Marketing, Communications, and Business Psychology. An avid traveler, when home she resides in Starkville.

{ what's hot }

Savory Starters

on the Grill

W

hen most people think of the rich, smoky flavor of barbecue on the grill, they’re thinking of a slab of meaty ribs or a plump, juicy chicken basted with their favorite sauce.

As summer and grilling season wind down, wow your friends and family by extending your barbecue prowess to other menu items, such as appetizers.

As any barbecue aficionado will tell you, the secret is in the sauce. A smoky, sweet blend of rich tomato sauce, molasses, and spices will guarantee a delicious meal for the whole family to enjoy.

Another way to enhance grilled foods and make the most of grilling season is by using wood chips or planks, along with charcoal, to build on the grill’s natural smoky flavor and infuse other rich tastes, such as hickory or apple. Scatter dry chips directly on the coals and wait for them to begin smoking before placing food on the grill. Keep the lid closed while cooking to create a stronger smoky flavor.

This appetizer, created by barbecue sauce expert and cookbook author, Ardie Davis, combines the best of barbecue sauce and seasoned wood flavors for an easy and unique starter - perfect for summer entertaining. Smoking the goat cheese adds depth that perfectly complements the sweetness of the barbecue sauce and apricot preserves. edm

Cedar Planked Goat Cheese with Apricot Preserves Recipe by Ardie Davis

Makes: 8 appetizer servings Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: 20 minutes 1 oak or cedar plank, soaked in water for at least an hour 1/2 cup apple or pecan wood chips, soaked in water and drained 1 (10.5-ounce) goat cheese log 1/4 cup KC Masterpiece(r) Kansas City Classic barbecue sauce 1/4 cup apricot preserves 1baguette cut into 1/2-inch thick slices or crackers Set up two-zone fire for indirect grilling with Kingsford charcoal by situating charcoal on only one side of grill, leaving other side void. Heat grill to 225 to 250°F. Sprinkle wood chips on heated charcoal. Place soaked plank on void side of grill and place goat cheese on top of plank. Cover grill.

While cheese is smoking (about 20 minutes), combine barbecue sauce and apricot preserves. Mix well.

Using insulated gloves, remove cedar plank with cheese from grill. Place cheese on serving platter and top with apricot barbecue sauce. Serve with baguette slices or crackers. Refrigerate or discard after 2 hours. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 13

{ fabulous foodie finds }

Life’s a Peach!

Peach Pecan Pepper Preserves, 10 ounce jar, $9.95 Taste of Gourmet, Indianola

Norpro Grip EZ Peach Wedger Pitter, $8.60.

Amazon

14 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

Amaretto Peach Pecan Dip Mix,$8.00.

Southern Sisters Gourmet, Pontotoc

Oxford Falls Three Pepper Peach Finishing Sauce, 12 ounces, $11.50.

The Mississippi Gift Company, Greenwood

Fresh, Mississippi-grown Peaches, prices vary.

Mathis Peaches and Produce, Meridian

Peach Cobbler Large Jar Candle, $27.99.

Yankee Candle, Ridgeland and Southaven

see page 80 for store information eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 15

Digital Subscriptions Now Available!

Access issues on all your devices - iOS, Android, and desktop computer.

eat. drink

.

MISSISSI

PPI

JUNE/JULY

2015

+ Ravine + 1933 + Henri's + Coffee Pot + The Sicil Cafe ian II

Download the free Eat Drink Mississippi app to purchase and view in app.

BILOXI

Shrimping

SODA-LIGH

Summer

TFUL

Trip

Culinar

Treats

BUCKET

y

LIST

Waterme

FESTIV lon AL

page 41

eat. drink

. MISSISS

IPPI • 1

On desktop computer, visit www.magzter.com and search for Eat Drink Mississippi or visit www.eatdrinkmississippi.com for a direct link.

Getting a taste of Mississippi has never been easier!

16 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

y tt er! u N m r m e Su ff O

Over 3,000 Choices!

Satisfaction Guaranteed!

The Best Premium Nuts, Shipped Fresh.

Dried Fruit, Snacks, Flours, Grains and More.

Extra Special Offer For New Customers: FREE

nuts.com/paper-uk4 N

*Offer valid for new customers only, with $25 minimum order. See website for full details.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 17

{ chef's corner }

Summertime is Tea Time

I

by robert st. john

1870s. The first mass exposure was at the 1904 St. Louis t’s been extremely hot in Mississippi lately. Though, this World’s Fair. An Indian tea merchant showed up and tried to is nothing compared to the heat wave we experienced 32 sell hot tea. Having no takers, he added ice to his beverage and summers ago. history was made. A few years later, a Southerner dumped five I was working a construction job after my freshman year of college, installing pink-roll insulation in attics of newly built pounds of Domino sugar into a gallon of the steeping-hot houses. It was the worst job I have ever had. The year was 1980 liquid to make it sweet and syrupy.

Ten years ago I wrote a short treatise on iced tea for my and we had a three-week stretch with temperatures over 100 degrees every day. When laying fiberglass insulation, one has to third book. I reworked it for this column: Sweet tea is a Southern thing. wear long sleeves and long pants, which are not conducive to Down here, when we speak attic temperatures in the blistering of tea, we mean sweetened tea months of July and August. with ice. Nothing complicated, That is the summer I began to just boiling water, a few tea bags, drink iced tea. and enough sugar to make the I am so Southern my greatspoon stand up— all served on grandmother’s name was Bubba. the rocks.

But I never drank tea as a child.

If you order tea in California My brother and I drank milk— it is likely to arrive with the flavor a lot of milk. He and I usually du jour and herbal trend-of-thefinished off a half-gallon at moment such as lemongrass or breakfast and a half-gallon at calendula. In Arizona, they might supper. Soft drinks were rare and serve it with a slice of lime, in came in much smaller sizes than Florida, a wedge of orange. In what we have today. To drink a New England, the tea will be hot.

6.5-ounce bottle of Coke was a Iced tea should not be hip or rare treat. cool or chic. Iced tea should not Today, iced tea is my go-to be scented with jasmine. Iced tea beverage. My love of iced tea is should be sweet and cold. a direct result of spending eight Iced tea gets sweeter the hours a day in sweltering attics on deeper one travels into the South. a construction job.

This is true of Southern women The foreman gave us a short as well. break for lunch and we would The formula for finding the usually go to a meat-and-three best sweet tea is easy: Only drink diner for a cheap, quick bite. tea in a state that hosts a member $3.75 bought a protein, three of the Southeastern Conference. vegetables, cornbread, and a It is there that you will find firstglass of iced tea. If I wanted a rate sweet tea, the two exceptions soft drink, I would have to pay Robert St. John being East Texas and parts of extra for a 12-ounce bottle and North Carolina. States with two there were no free refills. My teams in the Southeastern Conference— Mississippi, Alabama, budget was tight, so I opted for the free tea. At first it was just and Tennessee— make the sweetest iced tea. something that was cold and wet. Eventually I developed a Iced tea is the house wine of the South. edm taste for it.

I drank gallons of sweet tea over the course of that summer. In those days I opted for sweet tea. As my metabolism slowed and my waist increased, I added artificial sweetener to unsweetened tea. Since my return from Europe, I Robert St. John has spent more than three decades in the restaurant business. have been drinking a lot of unsweetened tea with no sugar or Twenty-seven of those years have been as the owner, CEO, and chef of the artificial sweetener added.

Purple Parrot Café, Crescent City Grill, Mahogany Bar, Branch, and Tabella Iced tea is the perfect hot weather beverage. It’s natural, in Hattiesburg. He is the author of nine books and writes a weekly syndicated food column for newspapers. In 2009, St. John founded Extra Table, a non-profit it’s inexpensive, it’s easy to make, and it is the best liquid organization that purchases healthy foods and ships them to soup kitchens and accompaniment for Deep South lunch foods. mission pantries.

Iced tea has been around in the United States since the 18 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

Barbara Jane Foote’s Super Summer Tea 6 tea bags (regular size, or 3 family sized) 2 quarts boiling water 1-1 /2 cups sugar 6 ounce can frozen orange juice concentrate 6 ounce can frozen lemonade concentrate 6 ounces pineapple juice Handful fresh mint 1 /4 teaspoon cinnamon 1 /8 teaspoon ground cloves Pour boiling water over tea, mint, cinnamon and cloves. Steep for 20 minutes. Strain into a one-gallon pitcher.

Add sugar, stir until dissolved. Add juices and stir well. Fill pitcher with ice. Can be served hot or cold.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19

Making Memories Chef Ryan Wright Prepares Meals and Creates Memories at Palmer Home for Children

20 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

By Lisa LaFontaine Bynum

W

hen Ryan Wright steps into the kitchen at Palmer Home for Children in Columbus, he’s there to do more than just prepare three meals a day for the children, staff, and volunteers who will make their way through the serving line. He’s there to create memories.

“Everyone has food memories from when they were a kid,” Wright says.

“You spend the rest of your life comparing things to that memory – the smell, the taste, you can’t forget it.”

The Palmer Home for Children provides residential care for nearly 100 children from birth through college age who live year-round on the organization’s two campuses. Creating food memories for these young residents is what motivates Wright and his assistant, Brenda Leech.

“We don’t really have titles in our kitchen,” adds Wright.

“But if we did, Ms. Brenda would be my soux chef.”

When asked how he became interested in cooking, Wright says it was out of necessity. After his parents divorced, he took on some of the responsibilities as caregiver to his two younger siblings.

“My dad worked late.

We couldn’t just eat soup and sandwiches all the time.

Somebody had to cook something. I learned a lot about cooking from people in my family.”

However, Wright didn’t consider a career in cooking until after he graduated with a degree in Marketing from Mississippi University for Women and spent a few years out in the working world. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 21

“I got a job in a bank and I hated it,” he explains. “I just couldn’t find my niche. I am a creative person and I wasn’t allowed to express that.”

It was at a family gathering a few years later when Wright first entertained the idea of becoming a chef. He had prepared apple pies for dessert and several family members commented that he should sell them for a living. That’s when it hit him – maybe he actually could do that for living. He enrolled at the MUW for the second time, this time as a culinary arts student.

During his second semester in culinary school, Wright received a call from his aunt, who was an employee at Palmer

Home. The organization needed part-time help in the kitchen to accommodate the influx of summer volunteers. Wright agreed to take the job, and continued to work in the kitchen through his completion of culinary school. After graduation, a spot became available to run the kitchen full-time. Wright has been with Palmer Home ever since.

Out of all the meals he has prepared, is there a campus favorite? Wright says that depends on who you ask. Just like any normal kid, they have a different opinion than the grown ups.

“Obviously, the kids do like things like tacos and spaghetti.

But they also really like my sweet and sour chicken and I served fish tacos recently and they were a big hit. As for the adults, I made pot roast not too long ago and everyone lost their minds.”

Wright likes to change up the menu frequently to give diners something to talk about.

“I recently put Wiener Schnitzel on the menu,” he reveals. “Real Wiener Schnitzel is made from veal and that’s too expensive, so we had to use pork chops. But it got people talking and it motivated them to go look up Wiener Schnitzel and find out what it was.”

In addition to preparing the daily meals for campus, Wright and Leech provide grocery services and take home meals -- called “pack-out meals” -- for the families who live on campus.

They also cater many campus events.

While he’s busy creating food memories for others, does he have a particular dish that he’s fond of ?

“My great grandmother made a yellow cake with boiled chocolate frosting. I can’t replicate it. I guess I should have paid more attention,” he says.

Wright goes on to add, “I just want to provide those memories for these kids who don’t have traditional homes. I want to give them that essential part of their childhood.” edm For more information about Palmer Home for Children and how you can help make a difference in a child’s life, visit www.palmerhome.org.

22 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

photo by mabus agency

shrimp & creole cream grits

By Ryan Wright

Shrimp: 4 tablespoons butter 1 medium shallot, diced 4 garlic cloves, minced 2-1/2 pounds shrimp, peeled and deveined* 1 teaspoon Creole seasoning** 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, chopped 4 tablespoons parsley, chopped 1 lemon, halved 1/2 cup water 4 green onions, sliced Additional salt, to taste, if needed Grits: 4 cups water with 1 teaspoon salt 1-1/2 cups instant grits*** 2 tablespoons butter 1 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon Creole seasoning 2 tablespoons vinegar pepper sauce Additional salt, to taste, if needed To prepare shrimp: Season shrimp with creole seasoning and thyme and set aside. Melt butter ina a skillet over medium high heat.

Add the diced shallot to the melted butter and saute’ for 2 minutes. Next, add the minced garlic and saute’ for an additional minute. Then add the shrimp and cook until they are no longer translucent but white and pink in color and some of the moisture has evaporated from the pan,

about 5-8 minutes. Add 2 Tbsp. of the parsley (reserving the rest for garnish). Squeeze the juice from the lemon halves into the pan, straining it through your hand to catch the seeds. Remove from heat. Mix in the water and toss until all ingredients are well combined and the shrimp is coated in the pan sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

To prepare grits: Bring salted water to a boil. Whisk in grits, reduce heat to low, stir frequently and cook 6 to 7 minutes or until the grits have thickened. Add butt, stir until melted and combined. Stir in heavy cream, creole seasoning, and pepper sauce. Cook over low to medium-low heat until the heavy cream has reduced and thickened, about 15 minutes. Grits should be dense and creamy but easy to stir. Stir in water a tbsp. at the time if grist are too thick or cook a little longer if they are too thin. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed before serving.

To serve: Ladle a serving of grits onto a plate and top with shrimp. Garnish with parsley and green onions. Dust the top with Creole seasoning or paprika and serve with lemon wedges. *You can use tail-on or tail-off shrimp. If using frozen shrimp, make sure to thaw completely and pat dry before cooking. ** Creole seasonings may vary in saltiness by brand. Use a familiar brand or taste test. *** Water-to-dry-grits ratio: 1 part grist to 4 parts water.

Change consistency of grits by adding more water or cooking longer. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 23

{ deep south dish }

Food. Family. Memories.

Pound Cake - A Southern Icon I

BY MARY FOREMAN

don’t know how it is around the rest of the country, but pound cakes are certainly a Southern icon and everybody has their own version, including some made with cream cheese, sour cream, chocolate, and even baked starting from a cold oven. Quite often a certain occasion is marked by a very specific relative, after whom said cake is generally named. Our family was no exception and the expert pound cake baker for us was my Grandma Mac. My grandma was known for her pound cakes. If there was an occasion, she made a pound cake for it. If we were coming for dinner to her house, she made a pound cake. If she came to your house for dinner, she brought a pound cake. And they always came on a pretty plate that she did not ever expect you to return. If fact, if you did, she might be likely to bake you another cake!

I don’t know a soul who didn’t get excited knowing one of Grandma Mac’s pound cakes was waiting for dessert. She lived to be almost 98, and now that she has passed on, her son, my Uncle Jim, has taken on the traditional task of showing up with a cake made by her recipe. Frankly, I’ve gotten quite spoiled by his cakes, too.

It is said that pound cakes evolved from recipes that started with a pound each of flour, sugar, butter and eggs, and no leavening whatsoever. I can’t even imagine what kind of vessel would have been required for that, or how that would have even been baked, but that ratio of ingredients surely must’ve produced a huge, heavy and very dense cake. As time went on, flavorings were added, first in the form of juices, then extracts, proportions of ingredients were adjusted to make for a more reasonably sized cake, and leavenings eventually added to produce a cake that is lighter, but still somewhat dense at the same time. In my mind a perfect pound cake is moist, tender,

Mary Foreman, a native of Biloxi, is the author of the popular website deepsouthdish.com, where she shares her favorite, homespun, mostly from scratch and, very often, heirloom and heritage, Southern recipes.

24 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

slightly dense, but light, creamy, and buttery ― all at the same time. It should have a very specific texture, something you will only get from a scratch cake. You just cannot get that out of a box, no matter how you doctor it up.

I’ve never been much of a baker, so I prefer to do most of my baking in solitude, because once a pound cake goes into my oven, all the old rules apply. No slamming doors, stomping around the house, or making loud noises. It’s old school thinking, I know, and my husband thinks I’m nuts, but I am still convinced that all of those will cause a cake to fail. One thing is for certain, do not, under any circumstances, open the oven during the cooking process. Check the cake first only about 5 to 10 minutes out from the lowest final cooking time. Although a tube pan is popular, Grandma Mac made her pound cakes in a Bundt pan, so that’s how we all make ours, too. You’ll need a quality, heavy cast one, and for this recipe, it needs to be at least 12 cups.

Pound cake is perfectly delicious all on its own and well received anytime you show up with one. I love it as is, with some skillet peaches or sugar macerated strawberries spooned on top, and a bit of ice cream or homemade whipped cream alongside. I also love it toasted, especially for breakfast. I’m not sure when I started that, but I always loved to take a thick slice of my grandma’s pound cake and toast it, never mind that half the time it got stuck and I had to turn up the toaster to try and fish it out. If you’re feeling a tad more decadent, pan fry some slices in butter. It’s mighty good that way, too.

If you’re entertaining, set up a dessert bar featuring slices and cubes of pound cake with an assortment of add-on goodies. Some things to consider are puddings for individual trifles, and my personal favorite ― a rich, egg custard sauce ― along with caramel, butterscotch, vanilla, and chocolate sauces.

A variety of fruit syrups can be made from strawberries, cherries, blueberries, pineapple, blackberries, or raspberries, or just offer an assortment of glazed fresh fruit. Any powdered sugar glaze will also work, including my favorites, buttermilk, almond, and lemon. Add sprinkles, shaved chocolate, chopped nuts, and a variety of other garnishes as finishing toppers.

Everybody loves it because they can customize their own dessert with a delicious pound cake base.

By the way, there’s not a one of us who doesn’t hold our breath when we turn a cake out of a pan, so if you’re new to baking, don’t get too upset if your pound cake doesn’t come out perfect. I don’t think that I’ve ever baked one that came out exactly the same as another, even with no changes to the recipe. A light dusting of powdered sugar can cover up a multitude of sins. What matters is the taste, and I don’t think you’ll be disappointed in this one. edm

Uncle Jim’s Southern Pound Cake with Skillet Peaches From the Kitchen of Deep South Dish

3 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 2 sticks salted butter, at room temperature 1 stick margarine, at room temperature 3 cups granulated sugar 5 large eggs, at room temperature 1 cup whole milk, at room temperature 2-1/2 teaspoons almond or vanilla extract 2-1/2 teaspoons lemon extract Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Spray a heavy cast (iron or aluminum), 12-cup or larger Bundt pan with flour-based baking spray, or grease and flour, tapping out excess flour; set aside.

In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt; set aside. Beat the butter and margarine together on medium in a stand mixer, adding the sugar 1/2 cup at a time, until fluffy. Reduce speed to low and add the eggs, one at a time, blending completely after each one before adding the next. Add flour mixture 1/2 cup at a time, alternating with milk, starting and ending with flour, until fully incorporated. Blend in extracts.

Pour batter into prepared pan, smoothing top. Bake in the center of the oven for 1 hour 10 minutes or until a toothpick comes back clean. Cool on a rack in the pan for

30 minutes before releasing from pan. Fully cool on rack before serving. Store covered at room temperature.

Cook’s Note: When measuring flour, always stir the flour, then spoon flour into the measuring cup and level, rather than scooping the measuring cup into the bag or canister, which compacts the flour and causes you to use too much, creating an overly dense cake. May substitute 1/2 cup of vegetable shortening for the margarine.

Skillet Peaches 1 pound of fresh peaches (about 4 medium), peeled, pitted and sliced 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 stick of butter 3/4 cup of packed light brown sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon Pinch salt 2 teaspoons vanilla 1/4 cup bourbon/whiskey Toss peaches with lemon juice; set aside. Melt butter in skillet and add brown sugar, cinnamon, salt and vanilla, bring to a boil. Blend in bourbon, add peaches, cook, stirring regularly until peaches are well glazed. Spoon over pound cake, add a scoop of ice cream or a dab of whipped cream on the side and drizzle pan juices on top.

Cook’s Note: May substitute 1 pound of no sugar added, frozen, sliced peaches, thawed. May also use juice or water in place of bourbon. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 25

{ mississippi made }

- The House Wine of the South Zelda Hill Bottles Iced Tea That Tastes as Good as His Grandma’s

I

By Gennie Taylor

nspired by his grandmother’s recipe for home-brewed iced tea made with cane sugar, Zelda Hill brings the roots of his Southern heritage to the lips of others.

Hill was inspired to create the business after a returning from a road trip while visiting his daughter in college where he saw the abundance of homemade tea that local stores and restaurants served. He could not find bottled tea on the market that tasted like homemade iced tea, and thus decided to make a bottled tea as tasty as the one his grandmother used to make.

With the knowledge Hill learned from watching his father, who worked in the beverage distribution field for more than

26 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

35 years, he began working with a beverage specialist and consultants to help develop Dixie Tea. Hill said his goal was to make sure that every bottle started with Granny’s original recipe, which she stated was “The House Wine of The South.”

Dixie Tea is a producer of ready-to-drink Southern brewed tea made with 100 percent pure cane sugar in 16-ounce bottles that were filled with grandma’s tea recipe, but also “lots of love and hospitality.” Founded in 2013 in Southaven, Hill used his grandmother Edith Hill’s recipe for home-brewed iced tea made with cane sugar and named it Dixie Tea. The all-natural black tea is available in three flavors: sweet tea, lemon, and green tea and is said to be a compliment to most any meal or event… “family meals, ladies’ luncheons, church suppers and it’s perfect for porch sitting on a hot summer day.”

Dixie Tea originated as an online product, said Zelda.

“With the help of family, friends, Tougaloo College alumni, and orders coming in from almost every southern state (Mississippi, Tennessee, Georgia, Arkansas, and Florida), Dixie Tea became the top online tea seller,” said Zelda.

In April of 2015, Dixie Tea partnered with Super Lo Foods grocery chain in Southaven to help introduce the company’s new line. Since that time Dixie Tea can now be found in 85 stores in Memphis and five stores in Mississippi.

“Over the next 20 years, we plan to make more flavors available to our customers and becoming known as a Southern tea that not only reminds you of good ol’ Southern hospitality but ‘The House Wine Of The South,’” said Zelda.

“Customers can plan to lookout for Dixie Tea to be in many of the coolest cafés, coffeehouse, whole food markets, and funky farm stands as we bounce around the Southern Cities and towns.” edm www.mydixietea.com eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 27

Grow. Pick.

Cook. Eat.

Farm-to-Table Dinner Concept Growing Strong in New Albany 28 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

story by Kara Kimbrough photography by ronnie harris

A

cool breeze floating off the rippling Tallahatchie River and a velvet purple sky overhead set the stage for a perfect outdoor dinner party.

A festive table was dressed in crisp linens adorned with decorative china and fine silver that sparkled from a string of amber lights overheard. Mississippi-made pottery platters piled high with fresh Mississippi produce and other delicacies cascaded down the long table.

The festive evening under the stars was highlighted by pleasant conversation, exquisitely-prepared food and fine wine flowing in abundance.

Sound like a dinner anyone would be thrilled to attend?

New Albany city and tourism officials hoped area residents would share the sentiment. However, they had no idea the inaugural Farm to Table Dinner held in May would prove so successful.

Attended by over 100 diners, plans are already in the works for a follow-up dinner this fall, said Sean Johnson, the city’s tourism director.

Exactly what is a Farm to Table dining experience?

According to Johnson, it involves creating a meal filled with fresh, locally-grown and harvested ingredients sourced directly from a farm, garden, the farmer’s market or the sea.

In short, it’s an edible showcase of the best of Mississippi’s fresh bounty.

Most often, Farm to Table dinners are served outdoors.

Organizers felt the foot bridge over the Tallahatchie River in New Albany’s scenic Park Over the River was the perfect locale. As a new feature of the Union County Heritage Museum’s Down from the Hills Bluegrass Festival, the dinner coincided perfectly with the season’s opening of Biscuits and Jam Farmers Market, Johnson said.

In addition to the unique aspects of dining under the stars on a bridge, attendees had another reason to support the dinner, he added.

“Most people have become increasingly health conscious and want to know where their food comes from and the farm practices used to produce it,” said Johnson. “When you’re part of a Farm to Table dinner, you expect the freshest locally and regionally-grown ingredients. That’s exactly what our diners got in abundance.”

Prepared by Chef John Stokes of Water Valley, the menu included garlic rubbed cippolini bruschetta; a salad of Union County grown tomatoes, salt cured red onion, basil and sorrel accompanied by crispy hog jowl potato salad and butter beans and boiled peanuts succotash.

The dishes served as delicious preludes to the main course of grilled quail stuffed with Delta Grind grits, baby Vidalia onions and marjoram.

An assortment of desserts, including mousse Napoleon, was provided by New Albany’s Sugaree’s Bakery.

Johnson added in addition to the food and ambience, the collaborative effort put forth by area businesses and volunteers served as a model for other cities considering hosting a similar Farm to Table dinner as a fundraiser or simply for enjoyment. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 29

30 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

Area Master Gardeners provided freshfrom-the-vine tomatoes for the salad. Local volunteers provided musical entertainment and assisted with plating and serving food. New Albany restaurant and area caterer Tallahatchie Gourmet helped with the overall production and Sugaree’s opened its kitchen for food preparation.

The scenic space was decorated by Emily Foreman of MODA designs and local artist Micha Foster staged the lighting. Even the New Albany Board of Aldermen did their part to insure the dinner was a success by approving a special authorization for wine to be served on city property.

As the magical evening drew to a close, glasses clinked in final toasts to the bounty of Mississippi’s fertile soil, the excellent cuisine it produces and an abundance of Southern hospitality. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 31

32 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

Summer Tomato Salad

Marinade for Quail or Dove

By Chef John Stokes

By Chef John Stokes

In a deep bowl place: 2 good slicing tomatoes, cut into wedges 1” wide on their backs 1/2 of a sweet onion, cut in half lengthwise and then sliced thin 5 medium sized leaves of basil, chiffonaded 1-1/2 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar 2 tablespoons quality extra virgin olive oil

In a blender combine: 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 1 tablespoon squid brand fish sauce 3 tablespoons honey 1/4 cup fresh oregano leaves 1/4 of a red onion chopped 3 cloves garlic chopped 1/2 of a beer or four ounces white wine

Season with salt and fresh cracked black pepper and toss all ingredients until the oil and vinegar is distributed evenly. Let sit at room temp for one hour, toss again, and serve with charred toasts or on a bed of grits.

Serves 6.

Purée until all is smooth and even. Pour over a dozen or so birds in a Ziploc bag and let marinate for 4 hours before grilling.

Serves 6. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 33

perfectly peachy

by nikki gladd

A

ugust is National Peach Month so you should be seeing an abundance of fresh peaches in your local grocery and fresh market. My favorite way to eat a peach is open-faced — open my mouth wide and take a big bite! All kidding aside, you might want to check out my other favorite methods of consuming peaches. These recipes for peach chutney and a peanut butter bacon burger topped with a big slathering of that peach chutney will tempt you to fill your basket with more peaches this season! Enjoy!

34 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

For more of Nikki’s delicious recipes, visit www.seededatthetable.com.

fresh peach ch utney

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 35

s Fresh Peach Chutney

Prep Time: 20 minutes Cook Time: 25 minutes Total Time: 45 minutes Yield: 2-1/2 cups

1/2 cup apple cider vinegar 1/2 cup loosely packed light brown sugar 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1/2 cup finely diced red bell pepper 1/2 cup diced yellow onion 1 small jalapeĂąo pepper, seeded and finely diced 1/3 cup golden raisins 2 garlic cloves, pressed 1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 1/2 pounds firm, fresh yellow peaches, peeled, pitted and sliced

In a large non-reactive pan, mix together the vinegar and sugars. Heat over medium heat and bring to a boil. Add the rest of the ingredients, except the peaches, and simmer for 10 minutes.

Stir in the peaches and simmer an additional 10 minutes, or until reaching desired thickness. The peaches should no longer be firm and the liquid should be reduced.

Remove from the heat and let cool at least 15 minutes before serving. Serve at room temperature. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to one week.

Recipe Adapted from Chef Michael Lomonaco

Peanut Butter and Bacon Burger with Peach Chutney

Prep Time: 10 minutes Cook Time: 15 minutes Total Time: 25 minutes Yield: 4 servings Serving Size: 1 burger 1-1/2 pounds ground beef 3/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 1/4 cup creamy peanut butter (more or less, to taste) 8 slices cooked bacon 1 cup Fresh Peach Chutney (recipe above) 4 hamburger buns

36 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

Heat up your grill. Meanwhile, shape the ground beef into 4 individual patties, mixing in the salt and pepper. Grill the burgers until cooked to desired doneness, 4 to 5 minutes per side or until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees F. Lightly toast the buns on the grill, if desired.

To assemble the burgers, place a burger patty on bottom half of bun. Layer with peanut butter, bacon and peach chutney (amounts are up to your taste).

Finish it off with the top half of the bun. Repeat with the other patties and ingredients.

Butter and Bacon Burge r with P Peanut each Chutney eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 37

Football u n Football season is near. You’re sure to score a touchdown with your fellow football fans when you bring any of these delicious dishes to your tailgate.

barbecue chicken wings 12 Sanderson Farms® Chicken Wings, cut into thirds at the joints, wing tips removed and saved for stock 1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons lemon pepper seasoning 2 teaspoons Greek seasoning 1 cup barbecue sauce 2 teaspoons honey 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice Preheat oven to 400°F. Combine salt, lemon pepper seasoning and Greek seasoning in a small bowl. Set aside.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with

38 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

aluminum foil and place a baking rack on top. Coat the rack with vegetable spray.

Place the wings on the rack and season the chicken with the seasoning mixture, coating both sides.

Place in oven and bake for 25 minutes.

Combine the barbecue sauce, honey, Worcestershire sauce and lemon juice.

After the chicken has cooked for 25 minutes, remove from oven and coat the chicken with the barbecue sauce mixture.

Place back in the oven and cook for an additional 5 minutes. Chicken should reach an internal temperature of 180°F.

Tailgating Recipes Healthy Hummus

By Kara Kimbrough

15-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed 1 clove garlic 1â „4 cup olive oil, plus more for serving 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons tahini (sesame seed paste; optional) 1 teaspoon ground cumin 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon paprika Red pepper, roasted and thinly sliced In a food processor, puree the chickpeas and garlic with the olive oil, lemon juice, tahini (if using), cumin, and salt until smooth and creamy. Add 1-2 tablespoons water as necessary to achieve the desired consistency.

Transfer to a bowl. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with the paprika and roasted red pepper slices before serving with pita chips.

Sweet and Salty No-Bake Clusters 1 cup sugar 2 tablespoons cocoa 1/4 cup butter 1/4 cup milk 1-1/2 cups Honey Bunches of Oats Whole Grain Vanilla Bunches cereal 1/2 cup reduced-fat peanut butter 1 teaspoon vanilla 1/2 cup peanuts 1 cup pretzels In heavy saucepan bring sugar, cocoa, butter and milk to a boil. Let boil for 1 minute then add cereal, peanut butter, vanilla, peanuts and pretzels.

Scoop 2 tablespoons of mixture at a time and drop on baking sheet coated with waxed paper. Place sheet in refrigerator until clusters are cooled and hardened. When ready, gently pull clusters off waxed paper. Store clusters in refrigerator.

Servings: 2 dozen clusters

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 39

Fiery Corn Salsa From Kelley Cleary Coffeen’s 200 Easy Mexican Recipes

1/4 cup olive oil 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice 2 teaspoons minced fresh cilantro 3 tomatoes, seeded and diced 1-1/2 cups corn kernels 2 to 3 jalapeño peppers, seeded and diced Salt and freshly ground black pepper In a large bowl, combine oil, lime juice and cilantro. Add tomatoes, corn and jalapeno to taste. Mix well until corn mixture is well coated. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour or up to 2 days.

Tip: In place of the corn kernels, you can used canned corn, drained; frozen corn, thawed; or corn from the cob, cooked on the stove top. For a smoky flavor, use corn grilled on the barbecue grill.

Makes 2 cups.

40 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

Sweet Chili Cream Cheese Dip 1 cup Frank’s RedHot Sweet Chili Sauce 1 package (8 ounces) cream cheese, softened Place cream cheese on serving dish.

Pour Frank’s RedHot Sweet Chili Sauce evenly over cream cheese.

Serve with crackers, chips or vegetables.

Red Velvet Cake Cheeseball

By Kara Kimbrough

8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature 1/2 cup butter, room temperature 1-1/2 cups red velvet cake mix, dry 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1/2 cup powdered sugar 1/2 cup mini chocolate chip (I used ½ cup chopped pecans instead of chocolate to lighten the dark appearance of the cheeseball and add a crunchier taste) With a mixer, beat the cream cheese and butter together until smooth. Add the red velvet cake mix, brown sugar and powdered sugar. Beat until smooth and combined.

Line the bottom and sides of a small metal mixing bowl with plastic wrap or waxed paper.

Spoon the mixture into the bowl to form the shape. Cover top of bowl and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Remove the cheese ball from the refrigerator and unwrap. Press the chocolate chips or nuts into the surface of the cheeseball. Slice and serve with vanilla wafers or graham crackers.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 41

{ in the bloglight }

Rebecca Turner Uses Knowledge of Nutrition to Encourage a Healthier Lifestyle

I

t’s a well-known fact that Mississippi has some of the highest obesity and heart disease rates in the country. We blame much of it on our “roots,” “Grandma’s cooking,” low incomes, and more.

Rebecca Turner of Brandon knows the struggle. Born in Jackson, raised in Terry, and educated in Hattiesburg, she is a self-proclaimed “Steel Magnolia.” Home-cooked meals and treasured family recipes are a part of her life, and she is proud of her home state.

But Turner chose a different path, becoming a registered dietitian nutritionist in a state known for overindulgence. She sees the positive effects of healthy, balanced lifestyles and strives to encourage others to eat and drink sensibly.

“True health is much more than running marathons and eating vegetables,” she explains. She knows the hardships people, especially women, face with an emotional attachment to food, openly admitting to her own struggles.

Her blog, which can be found at RebeccaTurnerNutrition.com, is her way to share her desire for balanced and healthy lifestyles for all families, including her own. Though she comes from a long line of excellent cooks, her own skills in the kitchen have faltered.

“Somehow the from-scratch gene skipped my generation, so I’ve embraced it,” she says. The recipes on her blog feature simple, pure, easy-to-fix ingredients with quick preparation times and few dirty dishes. Turner is an on-the-go mom who understands the delicate balance between healthy living and busy schedules.

She also knows that most Mississippians understand healthy living in their minds, but have a hard time putting it into daily practice.

“What drives me to blog are the millions of women (and men) who are fighting the battle against food, but don’t realize they are losing the war in their mind,” she explains.

Response to her blog has been positive and she hopes to bring about bigger 42 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

story by kelsey wells photos provided and better features in the future, including videos and downloadable resources. She encourages all to stay tuned as she continues her blogging work.

In addition to her work as a nutritionist and blogger, Turner is also a board member for the Mississippi Food Network, the state’s only Feeding America food bank. She strives to make healthy food choices an option for Mississippi citizens of all incomes.

She, her husband, and their daughter live in East Brandon, where she embraces her Mississippi roots by raising chickens and wishing for a piglet or baby goat.

Turner knows that healthy living is achievable with dedication.

“Everyone reading this has the personal power to choose a healthier lifestyle,” she said.

Rebecca Turner Nutrition is the perfect blog for anyone searching for a powerful new perspective on balanced, healthy lifestyles. edm www. rebeccaturnernutrition.com A food journal is a powerful tool when trying to adopt a healthier lifestyle. It c)reates personal accountablity and forces awareness of habits and patterns.

On the opposite page, Rebecca Turner shares helpful tips on keeping a food journal.

Kale, Sausage & French Bread Pizza

Food Journal 101 Step 1 - Find a system. Use good ole pen and paper, a website, or smart phone.

Step 2 - Log what you eat. Jot down every meal, snack, and beverage. If it goes in it goes down. Do not leave out condiments. Don’t forget the BLTs! Try and make note of portion sizes (if known), the restaurant name (you can look up calories later), and the time you ate it (this matters).

Step 3 - Evaluate your entries. The world’s best journal does no good without an evaluation. First, spot portion distortion and mindless eating. Second, check for balance. Compare your plate with the FUEL Plate. How do they differ? Third, check for time intervals. Eat every 3-4 hours, be aware of large gaps in meals, or snacking sooner after meals. Finally, any other unhealthy pattern that may arise. Investigate. Look. Let it teach you.

Step 4 - Set Goals. Goals help you improve from where you started. Never set goals measured in pounds. All goals should be behavior changes that will lead to weight loss. Short term goals are achieved in 7 days and are small steps. Examples- Drink one soda a day. Eat one fruit a day. Walk one mile a day. Long term goals are achieved in 30 days. Examples- Try one healthy recipe a week. Remove and replace 3 unhealthy pantry items a week.

Feeds a family of 3-4 easily! Double the recipe for a larger family by using the entire French bread loaf and one pound of sausage.

1/2 pound lean sausage (or lean ground meat) 1-2 handfuls of fresh kale Olive oil Pizza sauce Low-fat shredded cheese (any kind that makes you happy) 1 large loaf of fresh French bread from the grocery bakery Preheat oven to 500° F. Brown sausage, drain part of the fat. Add 1-2 large handfuls of kale to the sausage and cook till nicely wilted. Set sausage and kale to the side. Cut the French bread in half and then slice in half. Brush on oil olive to just cover the bread. Spoon on pizza sauce till the bread is nicely covered. Spoon on the kale and sausage mixture. Top with any low-fat cheese you wish. Bake for 6-8 minutes. Let cool, and done! eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 43

Divine

Muscadines

Pick-your-own Grapes at Vancleave Vineyard 44 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

I

story by julian brunt photography by daniel westphal

f you were lucky enough to grow up in the South, and even luckier to have deep woods to roam in nearby, the chances are you have fond memories of muscadines.

You most likely found them in a bottom, with a creek nearby, and the first time you saw those huge, purple grape-like fruits hanging there in the thick forest, you might have been incredulous. Is there any other fruit, wild or domesticated, that looks so gloriously delicious?

You also might have made the mistake of cramming the fruit into your mouth without regard for just how ripe they were, and the green ones you ate burned your young tongue with their acid content. The ripe ones, just a little shriveled, were sweet and delicious, even if their skin was a bit tough. If you found yourself there, it is a memory you will always keep.

So how can you recreate that wonderful childhood memory for your family today? It may only be a once a year event, but by late August the acres of ripe muscadines are ready for harvest at Boggy Creek Vineyard in Vancleave.

The vineyard has been around for thirty years, and late every summer, when the vines are heavy with fruit, it’s pickyour-own time. This is a family friendly event, that will be fun for everyone, and eating while you pick is just fine. Who could resist?

If it’s only childhood memories of muscadines you are relying on, you just might be surprised at what creative cooks make from this native plant. Delicious pies, syrup, cobblers, jelly and jams, bread, and ice cream are all possible! This versatile fruit is good for a lot more than just popping into your mouth on a hot summer’s day.

The muscadine, and by the way a scuppernong is also a muscadine, was one of the first grapes native to the American South to be cultivated. The clusters of fruit usually hold from eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 45

Dr. Jack and Peggy Hoover, owners of Boggy Creek Vineyard

46 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

four to ten grapes, and they range from a quarter of an inch to half an inch in diameter. There are two main types, one being better for juice, wine and jellies, the other better eaten fresh. There are six varieties available at Boggy Creek.

A few grocery stores just might offer fresh muscadines in the late summer, but nothing beats the fresh fruit you have picked with your own hands. Bone up on your jam and jelly recipes, and you will have the wonderful flavor of this Mississippi grape to enjoy all winter long.

Make it a family outing, as well as a late summer harvest, and join Dr. Jack and Peggy Hoover for a day your family will long remember. Soft drinks, muscadine juice, and tee shirts will be available. But don’t forget to bring your own bucket!

The actual time for the harvest varies every year, so be sure to check with the folks at Boggy Creek for the date and hours they will be open. edm Boggy Creek Vineyard 11300 Paige Bayou Road, Vancleave 228.283.0669 www.boggycreekvineyard.com

Pears in Muscadine Sauce 2 to 3 cups muscadines 3 cups water 4 medium size firm, ripe pears ¾ cup sugar 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon corn starch Rinse muscadines; combine muscadines and water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil; cover, reduce heat, and simmer 45 minutes. Remove from heat. Mash muscadines with a potato masher. Strain through a jelly bag, reserving 1-1/4 cups juice; set aside. Peel pears, leaving stems intact. Cut a thin slice from bottoms, so pears stand upright. Place pears in a steamer in an upright position; cover and simmer 15-20 minutes or until pears are tender.

Combine sugar and cornstarch in a small saucepan; gradually add reserved muscadine juice, stirring well.

Bring to a boil and cook 1 minute; stirring constantly.

Remove from heat.

Place the pears in individual compotes; pour sauce over pears. Yields 4 servings.

Muscadine Bread 1 egg, slightly beaten 1 cup muscadine pulp, cooked and deseeded (takes 4-5 cups of muscadines) 1/4 cup butter or margarine, melted 1/2 cup sugar 1/4 cup brown sugar 2 cups unsifted all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 3/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon soda 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg 1/2 cup muscadine skins, cooked and chopped 1/2 cup pecans, chopped

Using 4-5 cups of muscadines, separate the pulp from hull of muscadines. Be careful to save the juice. Simmer the pulp for 10 minutes or until the seeds loosen. Press through colander to remove seeds. Simmer hulls in saved juice until tender.

In a bowl, combine egg, pulp, melted butter, and sugars, blending well. Mix flour, baking powder, salt, soda, cinnamon and nutmeg and stir into mixture until smooth.

Add chopped muscadine skins and chopped nuts. Pour into well-greased 5 x 9 loaf pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour. Slices best the second day.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 47

{ from mississippi to beyond }

Food Storyteller

Kate Medley Tells Story of the South Through Food

48 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

By Kathy K. Martin

K

ate Medley’s formal job title is multimedia communications specialist for the Southern region of Whole Foods Market, but she says that her job is all about telling stories. Her mission is to connect customers to the farmers who provide the food and to create dialogue about the South through a lens of food.

“When you begin with a meal, you have the opportunity to bring people together,” she says.

Medley, who grew up in Jackson, uses print, photography, audio, or video to tell her stories. She has traveled around the world to document the annual sheep roundup in Iceland, the wild sockeye salmon run in Alaska, and the scallop harvest in South America.

She fondly remembers her first assignment for Whole Foods about eight years ago when she traveled to Will Harris’ South Georgia farm to learn about grass-fed cattle farming. As she stepped into his family’s world of clean meat production and witnessed the level of animal welfare and sustainability at White Oak Pastures, she felt comfortable enough to eat a small piece of his beef for the first time after many years as a vegetarian. “I and we (Whole Foods) as a brand let the farmer tell the story.”

Medley says that she likes to go deeper in her storytelling and attach a visual to her stories to show people why they should care.

She hopes this also affects people’s purchasing decisions and leads them to healthier lives.

Her job also includes logistic work for photo and video shoots, scheduling crews, and orchestrating post production work. “I’m doing my best work when I’m out on a boat or at a farm actively capturing the story.”

Medley attended high school at The Mississippi School for Mathematics and Science and graduated from the University of Montana with a degree in photojournalism in 2003. She worked for newspapers in Montana, North Carolina, and back home at Jackson Free Press, where she covered civil rights stories and worked as a freelance photojournalist. She returned to graduate school at Ole Miss in 2005 to pursue a master’s degree in Southern Studies and document civil rights stories for her thesis.

Her shift to food came during introductions in class one day when each student spoke about their particular focus of study.

One person said William Faulkner, another said blues music, and then she was surprised to hear a girl respond, “I’m here to study food.” Medley was immediately intrigued. She became involved with the Southern Foodways Alliance while in Oxford and eventually changed the direction of her career. “While social justice and civil rights remain a passion of mine, I realized I could continue to study those things in a serious way, but through a lens of food.” For example, this past year Medley created a film series for the Southern Foodways Alliance called “Counter Histories,” chronicling the role of restaurants and lunch counters as spaces of demonstration and protest during the civil rights movement.

Now based in Durham, N.C., Kate continues to travel frequently for her job and enjoys many meals on the road by some of the South’s best chefs. She is excited to see how many Southern chefs are moving the vegetable to the center of the plate. “We as Southerners can be proud of this shift as it showcases the abundance of fresh produce that is available to us in the fields throughout all four seasons.” Kate plans to keep sharing these stories of Southern food and its culture as a food storyteller. edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 49

photo by j.j. carney

A "My Grandma Niecy (who lived in Meridian) was famous for her pecan pie. When I started cooking, I adapted her recipe to incorporate one of my favorite southern ingredients ― sorghum."

Kate Medley

50 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

Pecan Sorghum Pie 3 eggs, lightly beaten 1/2 cup sugar 1 cup light Karo syrup 1 tablespoon sorghum 1 teaspoon vanilla Pinch of salt 1-1/2 cups pecans 1 pie dough, unbaked Mix eggs, sugar, syrup, sorghum, vanilla, and salt together until combined. Add pecans and then pour into unbaked pie dough. Bake at 350 for one hour. Sprinkle top with Maldon salt. Cool before serving.

{ from the bookshelf }

Deep South Dish Homestyle Southern Recipes

Author: Mary Foreman | Publisher: Quail Ridge Press by kelsey wells Ocean Springs native Mary Foreman knows that good can come from difficult circumstances.

Left without a job after Hurricane Katrina destroyed the Mississippi Coast in 2005, she stumbled into food blogging as an interesting way to connect with her community and world. With more time on her hands, she began to prepare meals the old fashioned way, much as her mother and grandmother would have done. Recipes and memories became blog posts read by people from around the world, and Foreman established the Deep South Dish website in 2009.

Now some of the tastiest and most popular dishes from her website are collected in a colorful new cookbook, Deep South Dish: Homestyle Southern Recipes. The cover, which features a photo of a plate piled high with Southern favorites, tempts the reader and chef to explore deeper. High quality food photography and color coded divisions make the book an easy and enjoyable read, and “Prep Time,” “Inactive Time” and “Servings” indicators above each recipe help keep the cook organized.

Deep South Dish features coastal favorite appetizers such as Party Shrimp and Hot Crab Dip. And what Southern cookbook would be complete without beverages like OldFashioned Homemade Lemonade and Southern Sweet Tea? Among the many temptations offered are recipes for Sweet Potato Biscuits, Southern Pecan Pie Muffins, Grandma’s Homemade Potato Soup, three types of gumbo, Bacon Ranch Pasta Salad, Creamy Gumbo Potato Salad, Fried Green Tomatoes, and Black-Eyed Pea Jambalaya. Special Occasion Macaroni and Cheese will leave your mouth watering at the mere sight of the baked goodness. Don’t miss Grandma Mac’s Chicken Spaghetti, and Trout with Crab and Shrimp Stuffing.

Delectable desserts such as Mama’s Pecan Finger Cookies and Simply Superb Peach Cobbler close out the volume.

For someone searching for light and healthy dishes, Deep South Dish may fall short. The ingredients are rich. The calorie counts are sure to be high. However, the tastes are sure to please and bring fond memories of family dinners and special holidays.

For Foreman, Deep South Dish is so much more than a website or cookbook. It is proof that triumph and a better life can come from tragedy.

“No matter how down and out things seem, folks, never give up,” she says.

photo by mary foreman

Icebox Cake Filling: 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened 1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk 2 cups milk 1 (4-1/2-ounce) box vanilla or lemon instant pudding mix 1 (8-ounce) tub Cool Whip, divided Cake: 2 cups sliced strawberries 1 pint blueberries, rinsed 1 (14.4-ounce) box graham crackers Chocolate syrup, to garnish Filling: Beat cream cheese until smooth. Add condensed milk, and blend.

In a separate bowl, beat milk and pudding on medium, until thickened, about 2 minutes. Fold into cream cheese mixture with 1/2 of the Cool Whip.

Cake: Reserve several strawberries and blueberries for later use as a garnish.

Spread thin layer of filling in 9x13 inch dish. Add a layer of graham crackers, trimming to fit as needed.

Spread with 1/2 remaining filling, and top with 1/2 the sliced strawberries and 1/2 the blueberries. Repeat layers. Top with last layer of graham crackers, and reserved Cool Whip.

Refrigerate at least 4 hours, or preferably overnight, and keep refrigerated until ready to serve.

Garnish with reserved strawberries and blueberries; drizzle with chocolate syrup. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 51

{ community }

Change Your Coffee, Change Kids’ Lives West Point Coffee Roasters Make an Impact on the Arts in Mississippi

52 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

By Susan Marquez

G

rowing up in Hamilton, Mississippi, Thomas Griffin says his tiny hometown didn’t have many outlets for the arts. “Our town was big on sports, but I was a vocalist, so about the only place for me to sing was a church.”

After graduation, Griffin left his town to go sing on tour, and that’s how he met his wife, Betty. A Hot Springs, Arkansas native, she had been dancing since she was five years old, professionally since the age of nine. “When I met her, she was in Branson, Missouri. Soon we were doing nearly 200 concerts a year, and it was difficult to do. We both wanted to stay in the arts, but we need something more stable and where we could make a living.”

Griffin owned a home in West Point. “We learned that the Wellness Center in town had an acro-room that was ideal for dance. Betty and I moved into my house in West Point and started an academy of performing arts.” The couple struggled through the tough economic times around 2009 and 2010.

“The problem was that we had so many girls with so much talent. Betty wanted to take them to a competition to see what other dancers were doing. Their first time out, they came in second place overall.” But many of the parents struggled to pay for classes, let alone competitions, so they missed a year of competitions while trying to figure out a way to raise funds for expenses.

Griffin’s sister owned a JumpinGoat coffee roaster in Savannah, so he had a decent understanding of that business.

“I started thinking about it and did some research. Today 84% of Americans drink coffee. I looked at what other similar groups were selling for fundraisers ― cookie dough and candy bars ― really unhealthy stuff. Did you know that the U.S. now ranks number one in the industrialized world in obesity? In 1990, less than 12% of the U.S. was obese. Today, that number is almost 30%. Yet we still push unhealthy products on our communities and kids to raise funds. I thought that selling a good quality coffee would be a great way to raise the money needed for competitions. That’s how Coffee for the Arts came about 18 months ago.”

Griffin dove in head first, learning where and how to source coffee, and determining he wanted to deal with Fair Trade co-ops, as the local farmers make more money that way, making it possible for their families to gain much needed health care services and education while fighting poverty. It was also a way to offer the best quality possible. “Coffee is grown worldwide. I’ve learned that just like with tomatoes, you can gather the seeds and plant them in a different place, in different soil, and the tomatoes will taste different. Right now our current bean is from Zimbabwe, and the coffee has a natural chocolate flavor.”

Coffee for the Arts is dedicated to promoting the arts in local communities throughout the country. “We believe our kids deserve an enriching education and that music, arts, and sports programs are important. Unfortunately, many worthwhile endeavors are being dropped simply for a lack of money.” It’s for this reason the Griffins developed a simple gourmet coffee fundraising program that’s personalized, profitable, and a straightforward fundraising solution for

virtually any group.

The Griffins roast their own coffee and taste test every batch they roast before shipping. “Our fundraising coffee is not the flavorless coffee-flavored beverage packaged in a can,” says Griffin. “It’s freshly roasted and shipped within 48 hours.”

The Mississippi School for the Performing Arts has outgrown its original spot in the Wellness Center. Today it’s moved to the old Mary Holmes College location in West Point, in what was once the old gymnasium. It has a music room in the back where Griffin teaches vocals, and a stage where students can rehearse and perform. He and his wife have taken teams to regional competitions in Atlanta, Chattanooga, Birmingham, and Memphis and they went to nationals in July.

“We have personally seen how this works with our own group, so there’s no reason it can’t work for any other performing group, including marching bands, church choirs, and more.”

For more information, visit the Coffee for the Arts website at www.coffeeforthearts.com. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 53

{ raise your glass }

Cordele-Crisp County Melon Punch 1 cup sugar 1/4 cup water 2 (2-inch) sticks cinnamon 6 cups grapefruit juice 3 cups orange juice 1 quart watermelon juice Heat sugar and water for 10 minutes. Add remaining ingredients and chill.

Recipe from Georgia Hometown Cookbook

by Sheila Simmons & Kent Whitaker www.GreatAmericanPublishers.com 1-888-854-5954

54 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

photo by og-vision

Rose’s Downtown Bakery & Tearoom -

-

Yazoo City

VicariCorinth Italian Grill The Hills

The Delta -

StromboliStarkville ’s Italian Eatery The Pines

- Sway’sBrandon Bistro -

-

CastVancleave Iron Cafe -

Capital/River

Our wonderful state is divided into five travel regions - The Hills, The Delta, The Pines, Capital/River, and Coastal. It is our goal to give equal coverage to all regions of the state in every issue. The following sections are color coded by region for your convenience. We hope you will take the time and travel to all regions to take advantage of the diverse culinary styles present throughout our state.

We do suggest that you call to verify operating hours before visiting any of these wonderful establishments.

Coastal

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 55

The Hills

Stunningly Good

A staircase and piano greets visitors to Vicari Italian Grill in downtown Corinth.

56 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

The Hills

Executive Chef John Mabry prides himself in making signature dishes like Lamb Chops with Grilled Asparagus and Orzo.

Vicari Italian Grill Satisfies Palates in Corinth

N

story by zack steen | photography by mark boehler

early six months ago, a new restaurant opened its doors in downtown Corinth.

A major renovation of a historic Cruise Street building made way for Vicari Italian Grill, a dining establishment unlike any other in the Crossroads area.

Executive Chef John Mabry once again finds himself starting over ― this time, however, he’s doing it his way.

“I was allowed to do exactly what I wanted with this restaurant ― something I’ve never really been able to do,” said the executive chef.

From the high-ceiling foyer, grand staircase, second floor lounge, original exposed brick walls, and marble floors, Vicari goes out of its way to capture a memorable experience for its patrons.

“It might be a bit overwhelming at first, but once guests sit down and these fabulous plates of food start coming out, they become comfortable and fall in love with the place,” said Mabry. “That’s what Vicari is all about ― it’s about

being comfortable and enjoying yourself.”

The restaurant’s open kitchen design is easily a favorite of Mabry’s.

“It was a dream of mine that came true. We welcome guests into the kitchen and encourage them to ask questions or watch food being prepared. It makes the entire experience come together,” he said.

A set of wide glass doors in the rear of the dining room welcomes natural light. With its extremely close proximity to the railroad tracks, diners can hear, feel, and see the 15 to 20 freight trains that pass each day.

“I love it, and customers seem to love it, too ― it’s all part of the experience,” he said. “It’s part of the charm of Corinth.”

The Savannah, Tenn. native said the restaurant’s name is also an ode to Corinth, what he calls his second hometown.

“Vicari is a small town, about the size of Corinth, in the Province of Palermo in the Sicily, Italy,” he said. “I wrestled eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 57

The Hills

Lobster Ravioli

for weeks trying to figure out what I was going to name the new restaurant. Finally, I realized Vicari would be perfect.”

Mabry has visited a chef friend in Vicari several times.

In fact, the red sauce served at the restaurant was born from a recipe his friend’s grandmother shared with him 25 years ago.

The menu at Vicari is quite robust with a wide variety of Italian dishes and about a dozen customer favorites from Mabry’s former restaurant, The Chop House. Mabry said one of his favorite traditional Italian meals consists of a steak and a “big plate of spaghetti and red sauce” ― two items he guarantees folks will enjoy. Affordability also plays an important role at the downtown eatery.

“I wanted to be able to have a great pasta for $12 or $14, but if someone wants a $42 bone-in ribeye, it’s there,” he said.

For those on an even tighter budget, lunch is the perfect time to stop by.

“We do a pasta of the day with a fresh salad for $6 ― it’s hard to go to a fast food place and have lunch for $6,” said the chef.

Jokingly referred to as the “soup nazi” by some guests, Mabry has become well known in a very short time for offering amazingly fresh and yummy soups. He also welcomes requests from his diners.

“I had a loyal customer ask me last week to prepare a Gazpacho. I did and it’s become a hit,” Mabry said. “It’s a great chilled, summer soup.”

The chef often recommends menu items to his customers. He said a perfect starter is the restaurant’s Bruschetta ― a classic Italian appetizer. Lobster ravioli, he said, is a perfect main dish.

“A wonderful, traditional plate of Italian goodness,” 58 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

Mabry said. “It’s prepared with a really good tomatobased vodka sauce.“ Mabry admits his culinary team ― a group of men and women he is very thankful to be working with ― doesn’t make the pasta or bread he serves in house.

“Our kitchen just isn’t big enough,” he said. “I have select companies I send specs to and they’ll make anything I want by my specifications.”

Mabry also recommends a classic Chop House favorite ― the lamb chops.

“The lamb is one of those things that by accident became hugely popular. I had people requesting it, saying they couldn’t find a restaurant in town that served lamb chops,” he added.

Served with crispy asparagus and orzo pasta, the lamb is grilled medium rare.

“My 85-year-old mother who loves everything well done, God love her, even likes the medium rare lamb chops,” Mabry said.

No Italian meal is complete without the coffee-inspired Tiramisu.

“We’ve had some great comments on our Tiramisu,” he said. “Several people have said it’s the best they have ever had.”

Mabry hears comments like these while he is visiting tables.

“I had a guest tell me that the most successful

The Hills

restaurants are often the ones where the chef comes to the tables to check on each guest’s food,” he said. “I honestly can’t imagine not visiting with tables. When I come to a table, I’m looking at everything ― especially your plate. If it looks like a person didn’t like an item, I want to know why and I always offer to get the person something else.”

The chef is proud of what Vicari has become in such a short time.

“People in this area don’t have to go to Memphis or Tupelo to eat in a beautiful environment and have wonderful food and great service ― it’s now in Corinth,” said Mabry. “Vicari is a great place to show off. It’s somewhere locals can be proud of.”

“Someone asked me just the other day what I would have done differently,” Mabry added. “There’s nothing ― Vicari is perfect.”

Many of his guests will most likely agree. edm Vicari Italian Grill 514 Cruise St., Corinth 662.287.4760 www.vicarigrill.com eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 59

The Delta

T Turning Tables on Table Turnover

•

Sit Down and Stay a While at Rose’s Downtown Bakery & Tearoom in Yazoo City

60 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

The Delta

CLOCKWISE FROM OPPOSITE - French Macarons, Rose’s Bakery, Rose’s Bakery interior, Lemon Meringue Pie story by Jo Alice Darden Photos Courtesy of Rose’s Downtown Bakery & Tearoom

R

estaurants often encourage table turnover to increase their sales. It makes sense. The more customers they serve, the higher profit they make.

Rose’s Downtown Bakery & Tearoom in Yazoo City takes a different approach – when you walk in, you feel as though you’ve run into a friend you haven’t seen in ages. Well, hey there! Come on in and have a cuppa coffee. Can I get you a muffin with that?

Meals in the tearoom are served on any of three sets of family china, with a mix of stainless patterns, at mismatched tables for two or four, each centered with an old-fashioned vase holding a few stems of sweet wildflowers.

“We wanted to have a place where ladies would feel really comfortable coming and having a nice lunch and talking and just enjoying themselves,” said Kimberly Denmark, who opened the bakery side of Rose’s with her daughter, Rebecca Olah, in October 2013. “They can order, say, just a cup of soup and half a sandwich or a small salad and a sandwich.”

“But we have plenty of men who have heartier appetites,” said Pat Cheatham, a classically trained and widely traveled chef who opened the tearoom side of Rose’s last spring. “They love our quiches – yes, our men do eat quiche – and burgers and meatloaf sandwiches.”

And what’s not to love?

“Everything is homemade (except for the croissants

because they just take too long to make),” said Cheatham, whose day begins at 4 a.m.

“Everything” includes regular items on the daily lunch menu, posted on the restaurant’s Facebook page. They include sandwiches, salads, pasta dishes, and burgers (on Cheatham’s homemade sweet potato buns), along with the daily specials, a soup of the day, or one of the vast varieties of quiche that Cheatham makes.

“Everything” also includes brightly and artistically iced cookies, lemon bars, cinnamon rolls, cake doughnuts (not fried), petits fours, buckeyes, cannoli, tiramisu, bread pudding, brownies, cupcakes, cheesecakes, kolache, Texas-sized muffins of several varieties, and white, wheat, and sourdough bread.

And Cheatham has her own brand of sweet and hot pickles and peppers sold by the jar.

But wait – there’s more.

The ladies will make specialty cakes to order. Denmark calls them “dinner cakes,” she said, “because you serve them after dinner.” A few of the many varieties they offer are German chocolate, Cheatham’s special Lemon Berry Crunch, Black Forest, caramel, carrot, Italian cream, and coconut, and, of course, they make cakes for special occasions, such as weddings, anniversaries, and birthdays. In fact, Rose’s is catering Olah’s wedding reception in the fall, the centerpiece of which will be a six-tiered bride’s cake and several varieties of eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 61

The Delta

cheesecake for the groom’s table.

Rose’s – the name has become a tradition as a middle name for the women in Denmark’s family – started as a bakery.

Denmark (who also operates a dog rescue service) had run the bakery and delicatessen at a grocery store in Yazoo City for years and wanted a change. She found the storefront available at a time when the downtown area was experiencing a rebirth after about 30 years of stagnation.

Olah works full-time in human resources and payroll at Baptist Medical Center Yazoo and helps at Rose’s when she’s needed. She and her mother did the renovation themselves with help from family and friends.

While Denmark was busy from day one with bakery orders, Cheatham saw an opportunity to add some Texasand European-style pastries and open a tearoom that would offer lunch service. Denmark and Cheatham agreed that Cheatham would own and operate the tearoom side of the bakery, and since it opened, their businesses have both grown exponentially, showing no signs of slowing down.

Denmark’s and Cheatham’s skills and experience complement each other, resulting in the production of the jawdropping array of baked goods and fresh foods that keep their customers returning loyally.

“We love the small-town, old-fashioned tearoom atmosphere,” Denmark said. “We want people to come and enjoy it, too – and stay as long as they want.” edm Rose’s Downtown Bakery & Tearoom 232 South Main Street Yazoo City 662.590.7001

62 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

The Delta

LEMON BARS

By Rose’s Bakery

Yield: 20 bars. You will need a half-sheet pan or a shallow pan with similar dimensions (13 inches by 18 inches x 1 inch). Timing is important, so make sure you have all ingredients on hand. You will prepare the filling while the base cooks and pour the filling onto the hot base without removing the base from the oven.

For the shortbread base: 4 cups (520 grams) all-purpose flour 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar 1 pound (4 sticks, or 454 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature For the filling: 4 cups (800 grams) sugar 3/4 cup (96 grams) all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder 8 large (400 grams) eggs, fresh 1 cup (237milliliters) fresh-squeezed lemon juice 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) lemon extract (optional) Powdered sugar for sprinkling on top Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly grease the halfsheet pan and line with parchment paper.

Prepare the shortbread base first. In the bowl of a stand mixer, with the paddle attachment, blend the flour and sugar on low speed to combine well. Add the butter to the bowl all at once, and mix on low-medium speed until well

combined.

Turn out the entire shortbread mixture into the prepared pan, and press very firmly and evenly into all the edges and corners of the pan, making sure that the entire cookie base is very even in all spots. (This is a lengthy process, but you will be sorry to rush through it.

For the lemon filling to bake evenly, it is important that the shortbread base be as even as possible.)

In the 350-degree preheated oven, bake the base for approximately 20 to 25 minutes, until golden brown. While the base bakes, prepare the filling.

Combine all the dry ingredients (sugar, flour, baking powder) in a large mixing bowl using a hand blender, stand mixer or wire whisk. Add the eggs, lemon juice and lemon extract, and combine thoroughly.

Once the shortbread base has baked completely, carefully pour the filling directly onto the hot shortbread in the pan and spread evenly. Do not remove the pan from the oven, and do not cool the base. Bake the base and filling at 350 degrees for approximately 25 to 35 minutes, until the entire lemon filling jiggles only slightly when you shake the pan. There should be no signs of liquid custard in the center of the pan.

Remove from oven; cool completely; sprinkle with powdered sugar; slice into bars.

Lemon Bars may be kept at room temperature for up to two days or refrigerated for up to two weeks in an airtight container. The bars may be frozen if necessary.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 63

The Pines

Southern-Style Italian Stromboli's Italian Eatery in Starkville Becoming Town Favorite for Pizza and More

S

story and photography by katie west

tromboli’s Italian Eatery, Starkville’s favorite pizza joint, is a special place that serves great Italian food with a cup of sweet tea. Known by the locals as Boli’s, this soulful restaurant perfectly combines Southern hospitality and charm with delicious Italian food made Southern-style.

A historic Main St. locale, Stromboli’s is one of those family-owned, authentic dives that’s called by many residents their favorite. And for the past 14 years, Tim Turman has been its owner, cook, waiter, and caterer. He can usually be found at the eatery with at least one of his three kids there helping out.

The Turman troupe loves being a part of the Starkville community and they welcome everyone to come on by Stromboli’s, have a good time, and eat a great meal.

The team at Stromboli’s really enjoys serving Southern-style Italian cuisine to its customers.

“Southern folks like things sweet and with spice and that’s why I make my dough sweet, just like grandma’s, and my sauce spicy,” Turman says of Stromboli’s signature taste.

The dough and everything else cooked in Stromboli’s kitchen passes through the 3-door pizza oven and all that baking makes the place smell like pizza heaven. And while noses are drawn to where the magic happens, eyes bounce from cluttered wall to cluttered wall. With tons of character, they tell a story of the past, becoming giant guest books containing 14 years’ worth of signatures that surround classic music posters, 8 tracks, old guitars, battered signs, and, of course, Bulldog paraphernalia.

Displayed behind the counter are Stromboli’s numerous “Best of ” awards and brightly colored souvenir t-shirts.

The quaint and comfortable restaurant has indoor seating as well as a cool, shaded outdoor patio.

An outside wall covered in a funky mural painted by traveling artist Michael Roy (www.birdcap.net), adds to Stromboli’s unique style. And although the structure may be small, it’s got plenty of personality and a staff that’s always friendly and eager to please.

Both staff and fans have their favorite dish and each one is likely to name something different.

Some will insist that the Old Main calzone is the best while others say you have to try the Chicken Ranchero or the meaty lasagna. But one thing everyone can agree on, Stromboli’s has some really great pizza. Their sweet, soft, buttery crust is covered with a secret, 30 spice marinara sauce and topped with only the best ingredients; and with tons to choose from, pizza lovers can create their own perfect pizza.

So much more than just pizzas, Stromboli’s menu is full of appetizers, calzones, baked sandwiches, pastas, and more. For the first course, check out the eatery’s uniquely Southern-style Italian apps, like Rotel cheese sticks, mini calzones, and Chick Kisses (Boli’s perfectly seasoned chicken baked with

64 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

The Pines

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 65

The Pines

Stromboli's Italian Eatery owner Tim Turman takes a catering order.

Greek Pizza 66 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

The Pines

Cannoli jalapeños and cheddar). Next, perhaps go for the dish the place is named for, the Stromboli. Described as beef seasoned with special marinara that’s topped with pepperoni and mozzarella cheese and laced in fresh dough, it can be filled with any additional ingredients wanted. Just slightly different than the Stromboli, the calzone is a tasty pizza pocket and lots of specialty styles are available, such as the Mafiosi. It’s a calzone that’s actually been packed with meaty lasagna, Italian sausage, and mozzarella. Boli’s also has some of the best baked pasta: ziti, spaghetti with meatballs, and chicken Alfredo (complete with onions, peppers, and mushrooms). And Stromboli’s is proud to be able to serve most of these dishes in a gluten free version.

Although some may argue that it’s the pizza, the desserts are truly the star and this is one of those places where you might have to order it first. Cannoli bites, baklava, and cheesecake – oh my! When asked which one he recommends, Turman says everyone has to try the homemade cookie dough bites. “We take our pizza dough, roll it thin and cut it in rounds, then we put a scoop of cookie dough in the middle, fold it up mini-calzone style and par-bake it.” The bite gets cooked just long enough to leave it the perfect texture. Topped off with

Cookie Dough Bites powdered sugar and served with chocolate dipping sauce on the side, it’s one of the best cookie dough desserts out there.

The desserts and main courses at Stromboli’s have created lots of fans all over the US; but perhaps the biggest one is a little kid who visited Starkville and the Italian eatery a while back. He fell in love with the pizza and when he got back home to Maryland, he told his parents that for Christmas he wanted another Stromboli’s pizza. Santa needed some help getting that pizza all the way up there, so Turman came to the rescue.

He prepared and shipped a frozen pie, complete with baking instructions.

This shows that the Boli’s gang will go to any lengths to guarantee their customers’ happiness and it’s just one of the many qualities Stromboli’s has that makes it a true Mississippi gem that can’t be replicated. Closed only on Sundays, customers are welcome to dine in or carry out Monday thru Saturday 11am-9pm. edm Stromboli’s Italian Eatery 408 University Dr., Starkville 662.615.4080 www.strombolismsu.com eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 67

Capital/River

White Chocolate Bread Pudding

68 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

Capital/River

Sway£ with Me

There’s Something on the Menu for Everyone at Sway’s Bistro in Brandon

By Lisa LaFontaine Bynum

T

ony DeMartini, co-owner of Sway’s Bistro on Old Fannin Road in Brandon, describes his restaurant as one of the area’s best kept secrets.

“But we don’t want to keep it a secret,” he says. “We want everyone to know about it.”

DeMartini and his co-owners, Buddy McClain and daughter Stephanie McClain Fairley, are not strangers to the food industry. DeMartini has worked in and out of restaurants since the 1980’s. McClain owns several Sonic franchises in Mississippi, Alabama, and Florida, while Fairley works for Sonic Corporation’s marketing department.

Sway’s Bistro opened in 2008. However, the restaurant didn’t come under the trio’s ownership until 2011.

“We bought it in hopes of keeping a local eatery open,” DeMartini explains.

Since then, Sway’s has become a popular hangout for locals. The menu offers a wide variety of options, from steaks to seafood. But there are several options that pay homage to Sway’s Southern roots.

For instance, their most popular appetizer ― crawfish rolls ― combine crawfish tails hand-rolled with shrimp, crabmeat, black beans, corn, carrots, cabbage, and American cheese and served with a sweet pepper glaze.

The Surf and Turf burger, topped with crab meat, fried

green tomatoes, comeback sauce, and blue cheese, is another favorite.

“We get a lot of compliments on our burgers,” DeMartini adds. “We really try to cater to all our guests. We offer something for everyone.”

They are not kidding, Sway’s Bistro really does offer something for everyone. Over the last four years, Sway’s has positioned itself as a neighborhood spot for both families and friends looking for a comfortable place to get together and enjoy a meal. Tuesday night is Family Night. The restaurant

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 69

Capital/River

70 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

Capital/River Cheeseburger

Shrimp Skewers - Shrimp skewered then grilled with bell peppers and onions, topped with homemade sweet pepper glaze.

photos by j.j. carney

features a special item not included on the menu and two children 10 and under can eat free with the purchase of one adult meal.

“Our thinking is, you’ve got a single parent or one parent who is working late and the other parent watching the kids.

They can come in and get a meal. You shouldn’t have to pay for one child to eat and not the other.”

Looking for something sweet? Don’t overlook the dessert menu. DeMartini recommends the white chocolate bread pudding. Made from scratch, it combines sweet Italian bread, cream cheese, white chocolate chips, and pecans. The entire dish is served warm and drizzled with white chocolate sauce topped with a huge scoop of vanilla bean ice cream.

If breakfast food is what you crave, Sway’s offers brunch on the weekends from 10 a.m. – 2 p.m. The brunch menu includes four different types of eggs benedict, including crabmeat Florentine Benedict with sautéed spinach and the Cajun Benedict topped with blackened shrimp, sautéed onions, and diced tomatoes. Understandably, DeMartini’s favorite brunch item is “Feed Me” Tony’s Breakfast. Bring your appetite; this dish includes three eggs, two sausage patties, two strips of Applewood bacon, French toast, and a choice of hash browns or cheese grits.

Sway’s caters small events such as office lunches, parties, and bridal showers. In addition, McClain owns McClain Lodge ― formerly Luckett Lodge ― in Brandon, which provides an event venue and catering services, along with McClain Lodge Hunting, a facility that specializes in African safari-style and exotic game hunting.

Sway’s prides itself on being a locally-owned, neighborhood restaurant. It’s a reputation they plan to maintain in the future.

“We have our regular customers who come in all the time,” DeMartini adds. “They know it’s a friendly place to come in and get great food. Our food and our service are consistent.” edm Sway’s Bistro 1139 Old Fannin Rd. Ste. M, Brandon 601.992.2450 www.mysways.com eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 71

Coastal

Hearty & Homemade photos by Cast Iron Cafe

72 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

Coastal Roast beef, gravy and fries

Get Your Belly Full at Cast Iron Cafe in Vancleave story and photography by julian brunt

S

ometimes a hearty breakfast can be an irresistible option. If you are a Southerner, it’s in your DNA! We’ve been famous for putting early morning feasts on the table for countless generations. In years gone past, a huge sunrise caloric intake was a necessity, especially if you were going to spend the day behind an ornery mule, in a red clay cotton field, or hauling nets filled with Gulf shrimp into a lugger or trawler.

Times do change, and breakfast these days is more often a glass of orange juice and coffee.

But sometimes, just sometimes, the urge may overcome you to enjoy on an old time breakfast, and if you are in South Mississippi, the Cast Iron Cafe is the place to head to.

You will not find a friendlier place anywhere. As soon as you walk in the door, you will recognize the Southern diner atmosphere, tables of regulars, hostesses addressing their guests by name, and, perhaps most importantly of all, plates loaded with delicious breakfast standards, a few not so standard, and a handful of lunch choices as well.

The menu begins with three heavy hitters ― ham steak with red eye gravy and two eggs, Southern fried chicken with two eggs and creamy pepper gravy, and Southern Benedict, an overthe-top combo of two eggs on a huge buttermilk biscuit, layered with sausage and the same, delicious, cream pepper gravy. What’s not to like?

On a hot Sunday in late June, the fried chicken with gravy and the day’s special of roast beef and gravy over fries with a side of killer good mac and cheese seemed just right. The portions were huge, the chicken was tender and juicy, and the roast beef just great; but that mac and cheese was stunningly good, with a hearty crust and creamy sauce and, interestingly, a longer, thicker pasta instead of the standard elbow macaroni. It would be worth the drive just for a bowl of this ambrosia. There were leftovers enough for an almost as hearty late supper. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 73

Coastal

74 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

Coastal BELOW - Fried chicken RIGHT - Hamburger steak with mushroom gravy BELOW RIGHT - Killer biscuit

The hostess told us that the Big Cast Iron Plate is the best seller. It is an over-the-top four eggs, two sausage patties, potatoes, buttered grits, and two buttermilk pancakes or biscuits. Are you kidding me? It seems enough for three hungry farmers!

Of course there are other options for those who aren’t into the feast ― regular-size orders of pancakes, omelets, good looking salads, and five lunch choices. There are also plenty of sides, if somehow you need to supplement your order. The Italian green beans were very good with lots of smoky bacon.

The chicken fried bacon seemed sinful, but there were also burgers and po-boys.

The Cast Iron Cafe is just minutes off Interstate 10, one exit east of Ocean Springs, but even if the location was not convenient, this place would be hopping all the time with great food, great portions, and seriously friendly service. edm Cast Iron Café 7350 Highway 57, Vancleave 228.215.3360 www.facebook.com/castironcafems

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 75

{ featured festival }

Professional and Backyard BBQers to Compete in Yazoo City September 11-12

S

story by Susan Marquez photography by dawn r. davis and yazoo county cvb

o you barbecue a mean rack of ribs. Your friends all tell you they’re the best. You’ve perfected your technique and you’d stack them up against anyone’s ribs, any time. Are you ready to put your money where your mouth is? If so, you may want to hit the competition circuit!

There are about 15 organizations that sanction most all the BBQ events in the country. They each have their own unique rules and requirements, and most share information on upcoming BBQ events, judging schools, and how to enter contests.

In Yazoo City, the Fire & Feast Competition and Festival is sanctioned by the Memphis Barbecue Network (MBN), the folks who present the largest BBQ competition in the world, the Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest. The Fire & Feast competition is held the first Friday and Saturday after Labor Day, which makes it September 11th and 12th this year. Now in the fifth year of hosting the competition, the Yazoo Convention and Visitors Bureau works nearly year ‘round to put on a world-class event. “That’s important,” says the Yazoo County CVB’s communication coordinator, Dawn Davis. “We have some world-class competitors at this event, including several of the top ten teams in the nation.”

The Yazoo County CVB presents the event along with the Yazoo County Fair Association. The event is held on the fairgrounds. “This is also the site of the state’s second oldest fair in Mississippi,” Davis says.

Why barbecue? “Barbecue is big!,” exclaims Davis.

“Barbecue is fast becoming one of the biggest sports in America. With television programs like BBQ Pitmasters (Destination America), Primal Grill and Barbecue University

76 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

(Public Television), BBQ Crawl (Travel Channel), Barbecue Addiction: Bobby's Basics (Food Network) and others, it is easy to see why investing in competition barbecue makes good tourism sense.”

It’s evidently a pretty big deal nationwide, as Davis says they have teams who drive from as far away as New Jersey to compete. “People come from all over, and the feedback we get is always so positive. They love our competition, they love Yazoo, and they love the prize money!” The prize money is why most of the teams compete. And this year, teams will be vying for a piece of the $21,325 in cash prizes that will be given to the winning teams in both backyard and professional categories.

Ever wonder what it’s like inside a championship barbecue competition? Yazoo City is the home of Ubon’s championship cooking team and restaurant, and Leslie Roark Scott, daughter of Garry Roark who started Ubon’s, has been involved in BBQ competitions since she was a teenager. “My first competition was in 1989, when I was 17 years old,” she says. “We do four to five competitions a year now, along with a few more big festivals. But there are teams who compete up to 25 weekends a year.” Scott says Ubon’s doesn’t compete in Yazoo City. “If we won, people might say we have a hometown advantage. If we lost, people would say we couldn’t even win at home, so it’s best to serve as hosts!”

BBQ competition is hard work and it takes long hours.

Teams roll in on Friday and have to check in their meat with the judges. Each team provides their own meat. It has to be “clean,” with no seasonings or marinades.

If their meat requires marinating, the process begins immediately after check in.

Friday night is the ancillary competition, with anything-but-pork, hot wings, sauce, desserts, and cocktails. At the Fire and Feast event, a party is held Friday night for the close to 50 teams that will be competing. “We serve fried chicken, spaghetti, salad – anything but barbecue,” says Davis. There is always plenty of music on Friday nights as well.

Many of the teams are up all night, tending to their grills.

Judging begins at 10 a.m. on Saturday morning and can go as late as 5 p.m. “Barbecue, we’ve learned, isn’t really a spectator sport,” laughs Scott. “MBN regulations prohibit competitors from selling food or even giving samples. It’s difficult for them to even visit with anyone outside their team because their sole focus is on what they are presenting to the judges.”

The judges for the competition are just as serious as the competitors. Each judge must go through a rigorous judging school where they learn the epitome of good barbecue, smoked ribs, and pulled pork. They learn about texture, barbecue sauce, and various other nuances used to judge a championship barbecue competition. “The MBN folks held a class here the first year we did the festival and I took it,” says

Davis. “I just wanted to have a better understanding of how it all works. Once you’ve taken the class, you’re a trained judge.

After judging a certain number of competitions, you become a certified judge, and then you are really in demand at the various competitions. Just as it takes great skill to learn to cook a whole hog properly, it takes skill to judge all the various parts as well.”

Davis says she thinks it would be a good idea for all teams to take the course so they’ll better understand the judging process.

At the Fire & Feast event, judges do a blind judging for the ribs, and for the professional competition, they do both a blind tasting and an on-site tasting. “That’s where they look at the rigs and see where the meat was cooked,” Davis explains.

“And that’s why these teams put so much into their rigs. Some of them are as expensive as a house, with flat screen tv’s and all sorts of amenities. It makes sense, too, since that’s where they live all weekend.”

So, you think you’re ready for this? For a small entry fee of $75, any backyard barbecue enthusiast can enter the Backyard

Competition with a shot at a $1,000 first place prize. “This is a great way for folks to get their feet wet without feeling overwhelmed,” says Davis. The rules are fairly simple and are available on the Fire & Feast website, but the basics include: bring your ribs unseasoned to be inspected by officials on Friday evening, cook using only wood or charcoal, and have your cooked ribs turned for blind judging by six MBN-trained judges by Saturday's deadline.

This year's event will benefit the Boys & Girls Clubs of the Mississippi Delta Yazoo City Unit, which offers nationally recognized programs in five core program areas: Character and Leadership Development, Health and Life Skills, Education and Career Development, The Arts, and Sports, Fitness, & Recreation. Davis says the Fire & Feast MBN-Sanctioned BBQ Competition aims to bring competition BBQ teams from across the United States to Yazoo City and to give back to the community. “We want to celebrate a love of the BBQ lifestyle in the Mississippi Delta.” edm www.fireandfeast.org eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 77

{ calendar }

Fill Your Plate

August/September 2015

Food Festivals & Events

September 11 & 12 Yazoo City - Fire & Feast BBQ Competition August 15 Starkville - Forks and Corks A dozen of the Golden Triangle’s top chefs compete for prizes and bragging rights during this year’s Forks and Corks Chef’s Competition. Each chef prepares their best dish for competition, while attendees have the opportunity to try each one and vote for their favorite. The winning chef will take home the Best of Forks & Corks award as well as bragging rights for the next year. A panel of judges will be judging the dishes on Taste, Originality, and Presentation. Each ticket includes wine and tastings from Mississippi’s craft breweries.

The event will be held at the newly renovated The Mill at MSU conference center on Saturday, August 15.

To have your food festival or culinary event included in future issues, please contact us at info@eatdrinkmississippi. com. All submissions are subject to editor's approval.

78 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

This festival celebrates the tradition of barbecue with Memphis Barbecue Network sanctioned competitions including backyard competition and MBN Professional competition, arts and crafts, live music, and, of course, food. For more information, visit www.fireandfeast.org or call Yazoo County Convention and Visitors Bureau 800.381.0662 for more information.

•••

September 12 & 13 Biloxi Seafood Festival The Biloxi Seafood Festival offers seafood and food vendors, arts and craft vendors, live entertainment, children’s activities, gumbo contest, and much more. Crowds at the Biloxi Seafood Festival feast on a vast spectrum of seafood ranging from the common to the exotic, along with many other types of food. Visit www.biloxi.org or call 228-6040014 for more information.

September 18 Cleveland - 25th Annual Rice Tasting Luncheon The Mississippi Delta Rice Industry celebrates National Rice Month with its 25th Annual Rice Tasting Luncheon on September 18 from 11:00 a.m. until 1:00 p.m. at Delta State University’s Walter Sillers Coliseum in Cleveland. The event features over 300 rice dishes prepared by local rice growing families and Delta restaurants. Delta Rice Promotions, Inc. is the host. For additional information, call 662-843-8362.

serving food amid wine and beer, live music, fabulous entertainment and silent auction. Visit www.chefsofthecoast.org or call 228-236-1420 for more information.

•••

•••

September 24 Taste of Long Beach

September 19 Jackson - International Gumbo Festival The International Gumbo Festival is officially returning to Jackson. The event will include a gumbo cook-off, blind judging to name the “International Gumbo Festival Champion,” and fantastic live music throughout the day.The festival is held at Smith Park, the family-friendly green space in the heart of Jackson. Proceeds benefit the Harold T. and Hal White Memorial Scholarship.

For tickets and more information on the festival, visit www.jacksongumbo.com.

An outstanding culinary event will be held in Long Beach highlighting local food from over 30 restaurants, surprises from other vendors, live music, wine tasting, and a silent auction. Visit www.mscoastchamber.com or call 228-604-0014 for more information.

•••

•••

September 25 & 26 The Great Ruleville Roast

September 20 Biloxi - Chefs of the Coast

The Great Ruleville Roast & Run offer live entertainment, BBQ competition, Friday night fireworks, a 5K walk/run, Saturday pancake breakfast, arts/crafts, children’s activities, classic car show, and more. For more information, call 601.756.2529 or visit www.facebook.com/ thegreatrulevilleroast.

Celebrate culinary excellence on the Mississippi Gulf Coast with the Coast’s best restaurants eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 79

Advertisers Index

Recipe Index Barbara Jane Foote’s Super Summer Tea, 19 Barbecue Chicken Wings, 38 Cedar Planked Goat Cheese with Apricot Preserves, 13 Cordele-Crisp County Melon Punch, 54 Fiery Corn Salsa, 40 Fresh Peach Chutney, 36 Healthy Hummus, 39 Hummus Deviled Eggs, 11 Icebox Cake, 51 Kale, Sausage & French Bread Pizza, 43 Lemon Bars, 63 Marinade for Quail or Dove, 33 Muscadine Bread, 47 Peanut Butter and Bacon Burger with Peach Chutney, 36 Pears in Muscadine Sauce, 47 Pecan Sorghum Pie, 50 Red Velvet Cake Cheeseball, 40 Shrimp & Creole Cream Grits, 23 Skillet Peaches, 25 Sweet Chili Cream Cheese Dip, 41 Summer Tomato Salad, 33 Sweet and Salty No-Bake Clusters, 39 Uncle Jim’s Southern Pound Cake, 25

Bright Lights Belhaven Nights, 4 Etta B Pottery, 9 Jackson Rhythm & Blues Festival, 3 Nuts.com, 17 Sanderson Farms, Back Cover Simmons Catfish, 6 The Kitchen Table, 9 The Manship, 3 The Strawberry Cafe, 4 Thurman's Landscaping, 81 Tupelo, 2

Vendors wanted...

We are currently seeking magazine vendors in all areas of the state.

If you would like to sell this magazine at your business, call 601-756-1584 or email info@eatdrinkmississippi.com for more information.

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

STORE INFORMATION from page 14

Amazon www.amazon.com Mathis Peaches and Produce Highway 45 S, Meridian 601.696.9991 Highway 19 N, Meridian 601.483.5001 1605 C St., Meridian 601.483.0923 www.mathispeaches.com Southern Sisters Gourmet 262 E Oxford Pontotoc, MS 38863 662.489.7400 www.southernsistersgourmet.com Taste of Gourmet at The Crown Restaurant 112 Front St. Indianola, MS 38751 662.887.4522 800.833.7731 www.tasteofgourmet.com 80 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

The Mississippi Gift Company 300 Howard St. Greenwood, MS 38930 800.467.7763 www.themississippigiftcompany.com Yankee Candle Northpark Mall 1200 E County Line Rd. Ridgeland, MS 39157 601.899.9118 Southaven Towne Center 6658 Towne Center Loop Southaven, MS 38671 662.536.4134 www.yankeecandle.com

coming to terms

Of THEKitchen IN

E

TH

with julian brunt

Brigade de Cuisine Brigade de cuisine is a hierarchical system, first developed by the French Chef Georges Auguste Escoffier, the man responsible for modernizing French cooking, and perhaps its most famous chef. The system organizes kitchen staff like a military unit, with specific duties for each, making a large kitchen a much more organized and productive place. Positions might include a chef de cuisine at the top, and in descending order, sous chef, saucier (sauces), poissonier (fish), rôtisseur (roast), grillardin (grill), and friturier (fry), to name just a few of the possible positions.

At the very bottom might be the commis, or stage, who is just starting off and is working for free to learn the basics.

More commonly found in modern restaurants today would be an executive chef, sous chef, line cooks, and a pastry chef. edm

Former Executive chef at the Beau Rivage Casino, Joseph Friel (right), and then executive sous Chef Kristian Wade, now executive chef.

Thurman’s Landscaping Landscaping • Irrigation Waterfalls • Lighting Outdoor Kitchens & Patios Iron & Brick Work

601.270.8512 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 81

DIET KILLERS: They’re Everywhere and They’re Coming for You

BY JAY REED

I

’m not quite “beach ready” yet. And though I’m the dad, I’m not talking about having the family wagon serviced, the reservations made, and the dog-sitter situated. I’m talking about the belly. The love handles. The chronic Dunlap Disease. Summer is the time for swimsuits and going shirtless, but I don’t think my time has come.

Here’s the thing. Summer comes pretty much the same time every year, right after spring. It really shouldn’t be a shock. If I have kicked past my coverage in the game of calories versus exercise during the winter holidays, then I should have at least five months to catch up. But there’s all that candy around Valentine’s Day, then Spring Break comes along, and all kinds of food festivals, and there’s just never a good time to start that four-letter “D” word. Then, BOOM!!! Summertime is here and it’s too late. I’ve been waiting for it to get warm so I could exercise consistently, and all of a sudden, like it’s Mississippi or something, it’s 95 degrees outside. Who wants to exercise in that?

Who even wants to walk from the car to the house in that?

As for the dieting part, here’s what I don’t like: the not eating. Or at least not eating what I want whenever I want.

Case in point. For the past several of months, I truly have been watching my intake. Things were going well.

But vacation came and it involved The Mouse. To get to The Mouse we had to drive, which meant the meals between home and The World were basically planned already. I also heard that The Mouse provides entertaining mechanical rides to keep his guests busy between all the meals and snacks. Vacation - even if it’s the beach you’ve been getting ready for - is a diet killer.

To add insult to injury, I like to have fun road food in my vehicle for emergencies. You never know when someone will need a chocolate chip cookie or a S’Mores Oreo. My goal was to stay low-carb until the morning we left, but two days before departure I had some free time and took the opportunity to pick up two of the best varieties of chocolate chip cookies my fair city has to offer: Aunt Marti’s (with her secret ingredient), and the MSU Fountain Bakery (the white kind, not the golden brown.) Road food. Not home food. Not work food. Not on the way home from work food. By a minor miracle, I avoided opening the packages before the trip, but I have never been hungrier. Never. Been.

Hungrier. Diet. Killed.

There are other diet-killers, too, that continually sneak their way into my life.

Homemade ice cream is a rough one. My parents live across town and homemade ice cream is kind of a tradition in our

82 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

BILL DABNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

{ till we eat again }

Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off. He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and writes "Eats One Ate," a weekly column in the Starkville Daily News.

family. We don’t necessarily have it a lot, but we rarely have a big family gathering without it. Back around graduation time (we had a high school senior) there was a party, and the folks brought Butterfinger ice cream. I was blissfully miserable by the end of the night. On Memorial Day, it was fresh strawberry. I showed more restraint this time, but by the slimmest of margins.

Hot donuts are bad to be diet-killers, too. Especially ones that are born behind a red neon sign. When they are hot like that, they basically melt in your mouth.

It’s almost like you had a donut hole rather than a whole donut. So you think, “That wasn’t much - I can definitely handle another one or three.” And you do, because hot donut math is different than regular math. Beware of the hot diet-killing donut.

Don’t get me started on pizza.

Seriously - if I get me started eating pizza, I will always, always, always want just one more bite. If there is pizza in the house, I have a piece in my hand.

Convicted killer of diets.

They say half the battle is identifying the true enemy. But I’m not sure if the enemy is vacation, ice cream, donuts or pizza. It could be the diet itself. At least I have a year now to get beach ready for next summer. And I’ll start as soon as Christmas is over. edm

Give a gift that lasts all year, a gift subscription to...

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI VOLUM

. k eaMt.ISSIdSSrIPin PI . k e n at. dr i r d .

PI

BER 2

E 4, NUM

VOLUM

eatMISSISSIP

BER 3

E 4, NUM

JUNE/JULY 2015

15

CH 20

/MAR

UARY FEBR

+ Ravine + 1933 + Henri's + Coffee Pot Cafe + The Sicilian II

eat. drink.

DC •

+ Bish + Ya op’s BBQ zo + J. Br o Pass + Miss oussard' s D’s + De li Dine Diner r

PI

Cra

ATL

APRIL

/MAY

2015

FESTwfish IVAL S

IPPI

MISSISS

CH FREN O R B IS T RD FO IN OX E HOM

ISSIP

PICNippi ICS •

NYC

THE MEET RON MACA EN V A M

ink.

MISS

BLO

GER TE TE KitcGh D en TSo ols Missi ss

eat.

Only 24 3for six issues! drink.

IPPI

MISSISS

$

XI BILO ping Trip Shrim

er Treats Summpage 41

Culinary

BUCKET LIST

Watermelon AL FESTIV SIPPI • 1

eat. drink. MISSIS

April/M

page 22

•1

5

IPPI

ISSISS

ink. M

eat. dr

ay 201

s! u o i c i l A I CH

SODA-LIGHTFUL PES T RECI GREA ADDING FOR EDS TO SE CHIA UR DIET YO

- The

arch

ry/M

Februa 2015

CHICKNot So Odd Co u EN & WAFFple LES page

44

eat. dr

ink. M

ISSISS

IPPI

•1

SUBSCRIBE TODAY! Subscribe online or mail payment to:

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

P.O. Box 1051 Monticello, MS 39654

www.eatdrinkmississippi.com eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 83

Since we started in 1947, our chicken has been free of extra salt, water and other additives. It’s not just 100% natural. It’s 100% chicken.

For recipes visit us at SandersonFarms.com or find us on Facebook.

Proud Supporter of 84 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015