Slow travel

Step aboard a historic sailing barge for a trip along the East Coast waters… and back in time

The red-coloured canvas of sailing barges and fishing smacks has long been a familiar sight on the Thames Estuary and its tributaries. Unpretentious and excellently adapted to their purpose, these unwieldy-looking workhorses once carried heavy cargoes with a skilled crew – often of just two people – navigating their trusty vessels using only wind and tide.

Today only a few surviving craft ply a commercial trade, but thanks to an enthusiastic group of owners a number continue to voyage up and down the East Coast, competing in an annual series of races – called Matches – and allowing passengers to get a taste for travel under sail.

In Kent, Tiller & Wheel is custodian of two historic vessels – the Sailing Barge Edith May and the Whitstable Oyster Smack Thistle F86. The Community Interest Company was formed in 2019 by husband and wife Ed Gransden and

Heather Burgess who are passionate about developing an arts and educational programme to support the unique history and opportunities these boats offer. The enterprise makes full use of the couple’s individual expertise and passions – Ed’s in sailing and the historic vessels of the East Coast, Heather’s in arts, events and cultural engagement; the two also run a unique arts venue in Chatham, Sun Pier House CIC, which has a panoramic view of the River Medway.

Tiller & Wheel’s home port is Lower Halstow, but Edith May and Thistle also sail from Chatham and Queenborough – tide and schedule permitting – and offer a range of days on the water, with the maximum time possible spent under sail and passengers encouraged to be involved in setting sails and steering the ship.

Ed and Heather’s driving ambition is to create a sustainable future for the East Coast’s last few surviving smacks and barges. They recognise there’s a need to introduce these vessels to a new audience and remove the cost barrier that prevents many people getting afloat – and in a bid to achieve both, Tiller & Wheel offers a series of free-of-charge sailing trips for the public. “Our hope is that people will fall in love with sailing and barges as much as we have, and will want to support our goals by becoming a Patron – but there is no obligation,” they say. “We simply request a £10 deposit per space to confirm attendance, and this is refunded after the trip.”

Sailing experiences vary from short-trip to fullday excursions, and private charters are available for up to 12 people; those who’ve signed up to the Patron crowdfunding initiative get access to further exclusive experiences such as Barge Match events.

•www.tillerandwheel.com

Sailing from locations in Essex, Suffolk and London, Topsail Charters was established in 1987 by Stephanie Valentine and Paul Jeffries, who believe that the best way to preserve sailing barges is to keep them working. “Carrying passengers rather than coal, grain or straw has ushered in a new era for barges and has helped ensure their survival. When they were built, few would have thought they would still be sailing into the 21st century,” they say.

With its HQ in Maldon, Topsail Charters has three beautiful barges: Thistle, Reminder and Hydrogen. Launched in 1895, Thistle was first owned by a coal merchant from Battersea. A regular passage was collecting coal from the Humber and delivering it to the Thames; she continued in trade as a motor barge until the mid-1970s and after a spell as a houseboat, was converted back to sail in 1987. Built in 1906, Hydrogen is a Coaster whose fine lines and sturdy construction are a great example of the shipwright’s craft. During WWII Hydrogen was sent to the Clyde to work as a supply ship and around that time her engine was fitted. In the early 1980s she was bought by Bells Whisky and converted back to sail; annual UK circumnavigations to promote Bells’ brands meant she becamse known as the ‘Whisky Barge’. She joined the Topsail Charters fleet in 1992 and in 2012 took part in the Queen’s Jubilee » celebrations, representing Essex for the day. One of the last barges built, Reminder was launched at Mistley in 1929; a Champion in Thames and Medway Barge Matches, she mainly sailed the rivers of Essex and Suffolk, finishing working life as a ballast barge.

All three vessels are available for private hire and public cruises, with the most popular trips including a two-island trip from Maldon, an Orwell River cruise from Ipswich – with an extended version venturing towards Mistley on the Stour – and a Thames cruise which transports passengers beneath Tower Bridge downriver towards the Thames Barrier. •www.top-sail.co.uk

Registered Charity the Thames Sailing Barge Trust celebrates its 75th anniversary in 2023 – its vessels are 1922-built Pudge (right) and Centaur, first launched in 1895, each of which offers public and private charter cruises. The barges are based in Maldon, Essex; both are on the National Historic Ships Register and are recognised as Dunkirk Little Ships – Pudge helped save the lives of 160 French and British soldiers and has recently been the subject of a five-year Heritage Lottery Fund restoration and refitting project.

Earlier in 2023 the Trust was awarded a grant from Trinity House for its training scheme, and it also works with both adult and children’s groups to teach them about these historic vessels and their part in maritime history. You can find out more about sailing and volunteering opportunities at www.bargetrust.org.

Barges and smacks compete in a series of races – known as Matches – each summer on the Orwell, Colne, Blackwater, Thames, Medway and Swale rivers. Ultra-photogenic, the Matches offer a great opportunity to see vessels competing at close quarters under full sail (see p30). The Sailing Barge Association is a superb source of information on the history of these evocative vessels and – if you’re keen to get on board some – has a comprehensive list of the boats available for charter.

•www.sailingbargeassociation.co.uk

Nestled on the River Medway in Kent, Chatham Maritime Marina is a perfect base for exploring, with many secluded anchorages perfect for lazy lunch stops. You’re spoilt for choice on land too, with a multiscreen cinema, an outlet shopping complex and a variety of restaurants and bars nearby.

• Range of annual berthing and short-term packages

• Accessible at all states of the tide through a lock entrance**

• Next to the Historic Dockyard Chatham

• Within easy reach of London and Bluewater shopping centre

• Otium Reward points every time you buy MDL services

GET BACK up to 5% on your berthing fees

GET BACK up to 15% on fuel

GET BACK up to 20% on visitor berthing

GET BACK up to 22% on boatyard services

* Based on a 10m boat. Price correct at time of print.

** Some restrictions may apply to vessels exceeding 1.5m draft

Situated at the mouth of the River Blackwater, Essex, TSL’s natural marina provides yacht moorings, boat & mast lifts, winter storage and local access to associated services. Great for sailing too!

Benefits include;

● Hardstanding area

● Hauling & Launching

● Access to our maintenance posts

● Access to water and electricity

● Located just 15 minutes from the A12

● Coded Toilet and shower block for customer use only

● Private parking

● Recycling, rubbish and chemical wash out facilities

● Local chandlery, tea room and other amenities