Wake up to Lowestoft

The UK’s most easterly town has rightful claim to the title of ‘the new jewel in Suffolk’s coastal crown’. Alexandra George discovers why it’s a must-do destination...

Calling it the county’s ‘best-kept secret’ and a worthy rival to the more rarefied Southwold and Aldeburgh, a travel article in The Telegraph last summer proclaimed that ‘Lowestoft’s day in the sun is dawning’. An eyebrow-raising statement maybe, but a fair one too… because for all its real-life grittiness, Lowestoft is a multi-faceted town with much to commend and, finally, the funds and drive required to restore its reputation as a prime East Coast destination. Visit as a sailor and you might only know the harbour or, inland, Oulton Broad. But explore just a little further and you’ll find elegant terraced homes, pristine sands, designer beach huts, cultural hot spots, culinary delights and countless reminders of the town’s maritime, naval and fishing heritage… plus a warm welcome from those proud to call it home.

History abounds: some of the earliest signs of settlement in Britain were confirmed when flint tools discovered in Pakefield cliffs, on the southern edge of town, traced human habitation back some 700,000 years. In the Middle Ages, Lowestoft became an important fishing town with the trade, particularly for herring, continuing into the 20th century.

The arrival of the railway boosted this and other local industries, while also allowing Lowestoft to grow as a seaside resort; the Grade II-listed terraces of Kirkley Cliff and Wellington Esplanade are among the architectural reminders of this golden age. Heavily targeted during WWI and WWII, as its fishing fleet declined in the 1960s oil and gas exploitation in the North Sea provided significant employment; today Lowestoft is at the forefront of the renewable energy industry (see p62).

The harbour and, just upriver, Lake Lothing – the tidal reach of the River Waveney – create a natural north/south divide; along the water’s edge are parcels of derelict land and delapidated buildings ripe for redevelopment. Plans for a new waterfront and ‘sustainable urban neighbourhood’ on the southern side of Lake Lothing would open up this area with bars and restaurants as a focal point, plus pedestrian and cycle routes – there could possibly even be a water taxi connecting

Lowestoft’s South Beach to Oulton Broad. More immediate transformation of the town will come courtesy of a £24.9m investment after Lowestoft was named one of 100 UK places to benefit from the government’s £3.6bn Towns Fund. Five projects proposed – due to be completed by March 2026 – include enhancements to the historic Scores (see p43) on the north-side, while on the southern seafront Royal Green and Royal Plain will be updated to complement the recently refurbished East Point Pavilion.

With all this, and an inherent aptitude for reinvention, Lowestoft’s future certainly looks sunny! »

The Seafront

On the southern side of the harbour, Lowestoft’s beach is utterly glorious – a mile-long stretch of soft golden sand with almost 300ft between the promenade and low-water shoreline. The landmark Claremont and South Piers provide food, drinks and family entertainments while, on the upper promenade, there are more refreshment stops and shops, plus the Hatfield and Victoria hotels which each have bars and restaurants open to non-residents.

Plucky open-water swimmers meet early mornings, dogs dash around and walkers stride out across the well-kept sands whatever the weather… and in summer there’s a real sense of old-fashioned family fun as visitors join generations of locals with buckets, spades and beach balls. All the essentials for a day out are here, and a number of beach huts are available for hire (www.hirebeachhuts.co.uk) – opt for something traditional or one of the new Eastern Edge boltholes (below left); at a cost of £2.6m they’ve been controversial, but the bold design definitely brings the lower promenade bang up to date. Above them, Kensington Gardens evoke the elegance of the past with tennis courts, bowling greens, tearooms, toilets and a boating lake.

These lush gardens and the entirety of South Beach are the setting for the First Light Festival (www.firstlightlowestoft.com), a celebratory weekend of performances and events under the solstice sun. Taking place this year on June 17-18, the festival’s outdoor programme is free, while a series of ticketed Sundown Events from dusk on the Saturday take place in venues across the town. First Light Festival is organised by a Community Interest Company which hopes that ‘by 2030 Lowestoft and its hinterland will be bursting with innovation and creative energy’. A sister project is East Point Pavilion (www. eastpointpavilion.com), a stunning Victorianastyle glass pavilion (above right) close to the harbour which opened in June 2022 and is a key venue, with street-style food vendors and yearround events including live music, artisan markets and community workshops.

Some very fine properties line the seafront as you stroll south of the harbour, through the suburbs of Kirkley and then Pakefield. The former was the birthplace of composer Benjamin Britten; the magnificent Grade II-listed Victorian town house that was his family home for 21 years now offers B&B-style accommodation with uninterrupted sea views from selected rooms (www.brittenhouse.co.uk). A campaign currently under way (www.brittenasaboy.com) aims to raise £100,000 to fund a statue to commemorate the composer. To be made by Ian Rank-Broadley –who created the one of Diana, Princess of Wales, at Kensington Palace – the statue will represent Britten as a 14-year-old boy and is to be sited near his former home.

Slightly more self-contained and with a strong sense of identity, Pakefield has a pretty church on its cliff-top, an unspoilt beach, and is home to the Seagull Theatre (www.theseagull.co.uk), plus number of friendly local pubs – including Lowestoft’s oldest, the Trowel & Hammer – and the Ferini Art Gallery (www.pakefieldartgallery. com).

ROYAL NORFOLK & SUFFOLK YACHT CLUB

Steeped in tradition and housed in a striking Grade II*-listed building overlooking its own marina, RN&SYC offers access at all states of the tide and a sheltered haven in all weathers. Founded in 1859, it’s just inside the Outer Harbour so permission to enter must be given via VHF Ch14 on approach; visiting sailors qualify as temporary members and can take advantage of fully-serviced marina facilities as well as a fabulous restaurant and bar. Call on VHF Ch80 for berthing instructions. Squibs and Broads One Design yachts are among the keelboats and dinghies raced at the club and its team of experienced Race Officers have organised many successful regatta and championship events over the years for classes such as Dragons, Squibs, Javelins, 420s, Lasers and Toppers. This year is the 120th anniversary of the RN&SYC clubhouse, which has stunning original features, period fireplaces, an elegant snooker room and an impressive art collection. There are also nine comfortable bedrooms upstairs as well as a quiet seating area with views of the marina. Outside, recent flood defence works have enabled the creation of a new marina quay, awning and entrance gates; an air of exclusivity remains, but RN&SYC is keen to welcome visitors and – with even a toybox to keep the youngest visitors entertained! – recruit the next generation of East Coast sailors to its roll-call of members and berth holders.

•www.rnsyc.net

Lifeboat Station

Lowestoft is home to one of the oldest lifeboat stations in the British Isles. Founded in 1801 – 23 years before the lifeboat service itself was established – it’s been part of many notable rescues, including the evacuation of British forces from Dunkirk, and its crews have received 45 awards for gallantry. Located close to the RN&SYC, pedestrian access to view the Lowestoft Lifeboat from the quayside is available; there’s an RNLI shop within the building here too. Just upriver, on the other side of the harbour’s Bascule Bridge, a statue (pictured on p41) pays tribute to Lowestoft’s Lifeboatmen.

•www.rnli.org

The Port Of Lowestoft

Situated directly opposite major continental ports, the Port of Lowestoft serves the busy sea routes between the UK, Europe, Scandinavia, and the Baltic States, and handles around 30,000 tonnes of cargo per year. Together with ABP’s other two East Anglian ports – in King’s Lynn and Ipswich – it contributes £360m to the economy and supports 5,300 jobs.

At the heart of the UK’s offshore wind industry, the port is currently benefitting from huge investment with new berthing, offices and quayside access for the organisations, vessels (lower far right) and technicians that keep the turbines turning.

Leisure cruisers and sailing craft are catered for too, via ABP’s marina which this year – along with its sister marinas in Ipswich and Fleetwood – loses its ‘Haven’ name as part of a rebranding to ‘The Beacon Marina Collection’. With the promise of an upgrade to facilities and services, Lowestoft Beacon Marina (www.beaconmarinas. co.uk) is around 20 minutes upriver, tucked into Lake Lothing at the entrance to Oulton Broad; navigation to it requires contact with the Lowestoft Harbour Control on VHF Ch14 and the lifting of the harbour’s Bascule Bridge – a waiting pontoon is available. Between this bridge and the marina, the Gull Wing is due to open late this year, providing a much-needed third road crossing for traffic over Lake Lothing. Gull Wing is due to have a clearance distance of 12m from water level at high tide – a Notice to Mariners will be issued before it’s operational.

During a December 2013 tidal surge over

160 homes and businesses in Lowestoft were flooded, and road and rail networks significantly disrupted, prompting the launch of a £76m initiative: the Lowestoft Flood Risk Management Project. With funding from local authorities, organisations and the government, construction of new tidal floodwalls officially began in May 2021 and will be completed later this year – they stretch around the harbour, the Royal Norfolk & Suffolk Yacht Club and South Pier.

Contrasting with current and future harbour developments, two evocative vessels are berthed on its Heritage Quay: Excelsior (inset top left) and Mincarlo (inset lower left).

One of the few remaining Lowestoft fishing smacks in the UK, Excelsior LT472 is an East Coast icon – an award-winning traditional wooden sailing vessel, authentically maintained and operated by a charitable trust (www. theexcelsiortrust.co.uk) to provide sailing opportunities for everyone. Trips range from classic sailing days to voyages across the North Sea and English Channel, and passengers are actively encouraged to get hands-on with this historic vessel (see p10).

Berthing neighbour Mincarlo LT412 is the last surviving fishing vessel built in Lowestoft with an engine made in the town. A sidewinder fishing trawler, she’s now a floating tribute to the men who braved the North Sea and is open to visitors from April to October (www.lydiaevamincarlo. com).

Also operating from the Heritage Quay, Jet Adventures (www.jetadventures.co.uk) offers harbour, coastal sightseeing and seal-watching tours aboard its jet-driven boat, Shearwater

The Ness

Head north of the harbour and – alongside light industry, warehousing and small businesses –you’ll find Ness Park. With cycling, wheelchair and pedestrian access to the sea wall, Ness Point here is the most easterly point in the UK and the reason that this part of Suffolk is known as ‘the sunrise coast’ – the sun appears above the horizon here first each morning!

Set into the ground a marker, or Euroscope (above), displays the direction and distance of various European cities. Close by, wind turbine Gulliver was, when built, officially the tallest on the UK mainland; capable of producing enough electricity to supply over 1,500 homes, it began generating early in 2005.

There’s ambition locally to make Ness Point a Cardinal Point destination in line with Land’s End and John O’Groats. Aside from its sunrise credentials, it’s certainly worth visiting to see A Lowestoft Man (left), an art installation by awardwinning Suffolk photographer Gillian Allard which shows former seafarer Malcolm Wright –

Lowestoft born and bred – facing out to sea from the surface of a concrete structure.

A thriving ‘beach village’ once existed here – stroll further along The Ness and you’ll reach the drying racks (right) which were used by fishermen in the heyday of the herring trade. Just across the road, Lowestoft Maritime Museum offers a wealth of information relating to the local fishing and shipbuilding industry. The museum sits within Sparrows Nest Gardens – a lovely green space with a children’s play park, restaurant and café – which is located just below Belle Vue Park and the lighthouse (top right), which still operates today. Two other museums are in Sparrows Nest Gardens: Lowestoft War Memorial Museum and the RNPS Museum which focuses on the Navy during WWII.

Steep narrow paths known as Scores lead uphill from The Ness to Lowestoft’s medieval high street, where merchants’ houses and shops – many now vacant – sit within the so-called North Lowestoft Heritage Quarter. The Scores were cut into the cliff by locals going between the village and the town – wander them at will or test your fitness by taking part in the Scores Race this August Bank Holiday. This year is the race’s 25th anniversary; the route comprises 13 stepped and sloped Scores over a course of around 4.75 miles and 401 steps for Senior participants, with a shorter route of 1.4 miles and 254 steps for Juniors (www.waveneyvalley.org).

If you’d prefer a more leisurely trip to the historic high street, enjoy a meal and drinks at Mark G (www.markgee.uk), which specialises in fish and seafood and is located next to an old herring store.

Back at sea level, North Beach and Gunton Denes is a sand and shingle stretch backed by dunes – a good spot for birdwatching and walks. Keep heading up the coast and you’ll reach Corton – there’s a designated naturist beach en route!

Broad Appeal

Forming the southern gateway to the Broads National Park, Oulton Broad is a busy tourist and sporting centre upriver of the harbour. Nicholas Everitt Park here is home to the Lowestoft Museum; best-known for its collection of 18thcentury Lowestoft Porcelain, it also displays objects from Roman and Anglo-Saxon sites.

An extensive water frontage is the setting for scenic strolls and a calendar of on-the-water events, from dinghy and yacht racing to kayaking and canoeing. Shore-based activities include tennis courts, a bowling green, a children’s play area and boating lake. There’s a great choice of cafés, restaurants and bars when you need a rest; buy food for the park’s resident ducks and squirrels while you’re here and don’t miss the chance to see Lowestoft’s very own Banksy – the painting of three children (top) is on a wall by the Bridge Road entrance.

Every summer Lowestoft & Oulton Broad Motor Boat Club hosts an exhilarating programme of powerboat races (www.lobmbc.online) which can be watched from the water’s edge. If you prefer something a little slower, Waveney and Oulton Broad Yacht Club hosts many events through the year (www.wobyc.com) and also offers RYA-accredited courses for members.

Tempted to get on the water yourself?

Oulton Broad Watersports Centre (www. oultonbroadwatersportscentre.co.uk) offers a range of activities and courses, including those with RYA certification, and also hires out

Canadian canoes, sit-on kayaks and paddleboards. Next door, Lowestoft Rowing Club (www. lowestoftrowingclub.org.uk) has an excellent selection of boats from beginners’ single sculls to fine racing fours. Alternatively, hire a selfdrive day boat or take a trip on the Broads with Waveney River Tours (www.waveneyrivertours. com), which offers boat trips from Mutford Lock (centre of main photo, above), an unusual piece of 19th-century engineering that allows transit between Lake Lothing and the Broads.

A short walk from Nicholas Everitt Park, Broadlands Marina (above) is part of the Tingdene group (www.tingdeneboating.com). With moorings at the edge of Oulton Broad for berth holders and visitors, it has a quayside restaurant and bar, swimming pool and gym plus an on-site holiday park with a selection of selfcatering properties for sale and hire.

To the seaward side of Mutford Lock, on the northern side of Lake Lothing, the International Boatbuilding Training College (www.ibtc.co.uk) offers courses for those hoping for a career in the maritime industry as well as those who simply want to develop existing or new skills. With courses from one day to almost a year, there is something for everyone from boat owners and enthusiasts to prospective trades people – see p67 for more.