VANILLA BEAN, DULUTH

BRINGING CASUAL, FAMILY-FRIENDLY FARE TO DULUTH’S MOUNT ROYAL NEIGHBORHOOD

By Andrea Busche

Duluth’s new Vanilla Bean restaurant is anything but, well, vanilla. Cozily nestled into the Mount Royal Shopping Center, their kitchen has been cooking up a variety of American and Scandinavian dishes since opening on Feb. 9. And its ambitious owners are not new to the business, already owning several local restaurants.

Fresh Look And Feel

The longtime restaurant space has been freshened up and features black booths, dark wood tables, light wood floors, exposed beams, and grey and maroon walls. Paying homage to local athletes, one of the restaurant’s hallways features sports jerseys, including the UMD Bulldogs.

There is a beautiful white bar where patrons can grab a cocktail or a specialty coffee. Baristas and bartenders can whip up anything from a salted caramel latte to a bacon-wrapped, mini doughnut bloody Mary. A grab and go counter rotates sandwiches and desserts.

The menu features classic Minnesota fare such as tater-tot hotdish and pasties, along with breakfast foods, burgers and seafood. They offer locally brewed beer, wine and cocktails, and specialty coffees crafted from Gene Hicks Gourmet Coffee in Ely. Their menu, offering both brunches and dinners, is an adventure for every diner, and the restaurant has rapidly established itself as a neighborhood favorite.

FOURTH ADDITION TO COUPLE’S PORTFOLIO

If you’re from around these parts, the Vanilla Bean name is most likely familiar. Co-owners and spouses Jason Vincent and Jeff Anderson began their adventures as restauranteurs in 2014, when they purchased Vanilla Bean in Two Harbors. This restaurant, which has been open since 1998, is a well-known dining destination because of unique offerings such as ovenbaked omelets, Swedish pancakes with lingonberries, soups, sandwiches and pan-seared fish.

After finding great success with their first venture, they opened the Vanilla Bean Coffee House in the Fitger’s complex in July 2015. Last year, the couple took a turn from their Vanilla Bean brand when they opened their upscale, nautical-themed restaurant, The Boat Club, in the Fitger’s complex.

To the delight of its regulars, the Vanilla Bean menu and ingredients are the same as in Two Harbors, though the menu is revisited and updated seasonally.

The Duluth location has about 50 employees, including an executive chef and line cooks who have all received special culinary training. Jason and Jeff were pleased to share that both the chef and the general manager are women — a rarity in the restaurant industry.

RIGHT LOCATION, RIGHT TIME

The restaurateurs were still celebrating the opening of The Boat Club, and certainly not interested in operating another restaurant, when the Woodland Avenue location became available. They were dining at the former Northern Waters Restaurant when Jason commented to Jeff, “You know, this would make a perfect Vanilla Bean.”

Vanilla Bean Duluth opened almost exactly one year after The Boat Club. With this new addition, the “family” of dining establishments for the Anderson-Vincents is complete, at least for now. “We will not be celebrating another grand opening in February 2019,” Jeff said emphatically.

The Food

I dined recently at the Vanilla Bean with photographer Michelle Truax, who is both a vegan and teetotaler. I am neither! Thankfully, the restaurant offered options for both of us — and everyone in between.

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Finished with a luxurious beurre blanc, reminiscent in texture to that of a light hollandaise ringing the fish, it pulled together all the flavors into a perfect bite.

The simplicity of Martha’s Daughter’s decor and the effervescent ease of its staff and ambiance provide the restrained canvas needed to convey flavorfully complex food that is genuinely and caringly composed with dramatic and unpretentious presentation at affordable prices. It’s a compelling spot for date nights, business dinners and catching up with friends over small plates. It’s a true ambassador for New American cuisine — that diverse marrying of cultures and flavors that define the country’s (and the city’s) emerging culinary surprises.

After some intense conversation with Jeff, Jason and our server, Jo Jones, Michelle opted for the Ricotta and Mushroom Gnudi with a dairyfree Ricotta. From the menu: Ricotta and Mushroom Gnudi - Ricotta dumplings and Maitake mushrooms with carrot risotto.

Michelle’s entrée came with either soup or salad. She chose the salad, which featured a generous spring mix topped with cukes, tomatoes and homemade vegan croutons. The vegan dressing option was a balsamic vinaigrette.

Michelle commented that the Gnudi dumplings were crisp and flaky on the outside, while rich and creamy inside. There was a hint of garlic, along with other delectable seasonings detected in each bite. The risotto was creamy, offering a strong mushroom flavor, with chunks of carrots and mushrooms throughout. The food was artfully surrounded by a halo of pretty microgreens.

“The consistency of the dumplings is like a little fried potato ball,” Michelle said. “If I got a cup of these at the fair, I’d be pretty happy.”

She ordered a hot specialty coffee drink — a Chai Latte made with almond milk. “It’s very creamy,” she said. “It doesn’t taste vegan. There’s a strong clove flavor; it would make a good fall or winter drink. It’s comforting and rich, but light and frothy at the same time. It feels indulgent, and it’s freakin’ delicious.”

Walleye Cakes And A Brew

I ordered the walleye cakes from the appetizer selection. From the menu: Hand-pattied cakes with braised walleye, red onion, carrot, celery and panko, topped with lemon dill cream sauce.

I was nervous about whether an appetizer could be a filling meal. Jo set me straight, and she was right; I was full for the entire night. This dish came with four generously-sized cakes with fluffy, lightly crisped edges. The walleye was diced into tiny pieces, and it blended well with the surrounding panko batter. The chunks of celery, carrot and onion were surprisingly

IF YOU GO:

Vanilla Bean is open from 7 a.m.-9 p.m. daily, and offers happy-hour specials large and added a nice crisp texture and fresh flavor to the cakes. The lemon dill cream sauce was rich and amazing, and I requested an additional serving on the side so I could dunk my cakes. I would highly recommend this dish.

Monday-Friday, 4-6 p.m. Visit thevanillabean.com for more information.

I paired the walleye cakes with a Minnesota Gold Light. The light, straw-colored, smooth-drinking lager was a fresh complement to the fish cakes.

Your New Neighborhood Favorite

With unique menu offerings, an approachable price point, and a comfy-casual setting, Vanilla Bean Duluth may just become your new favorite restaurant. And their famous brunch simply can’t be beat.

“We truly strive to create an experience for our customers,” Jeff said.

Jason echoed the thought, sharing simply, “We offer great food, at a great value, in a great environment.”