Kai Mikel Johnson

CARNAVAL EXPERIENCE It was the morning of Carnaval and not a cloud was in site over Cabarete, a small town on the Northern coast of the Dominican Republic. My costume lay in a large black bag on the floor of the apartment. The air had been quiet with the exception of the waves hitting the shore; something that I knew would change as festivities began to start up.

The Carnaval was set to start at midday and it was almost time to head to the starting line and prep for the performance. Carrying the large black bag over my shoulders, I descended down the stairs and walked over to the side of the road where I would wait for someone to bring us there. After a minute or two a motoconcho arrived. He slung the large bag over the handle bars and we rode down to Callejon.

It was early but already lining the streets were families on their porches watching as all prepared for the Carnaval. A few minutes down the road the low sound of music and drums began to fill the street and I knew we were getting close. The streets slowly began to turn to dirt roads underneath the moto and we’d reached the end of Callejon where the procession started; at El Choco National Park.

Dozens of comparsas had already arrived and their buses lined up along the road. We watched as they transformed into character and paraded the streets waiting for the drums to start and the group to move. Each comparsa had their own region, or cueva, where they would prepare their costume and rally.

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Los Lechones danced around the street cracking their whips in the air.

Los Califes marched around with their tall hats and blackened skin. Los Pintaos posed in the sunlight that cracked through the canopies above.

The potential energy of Carnaval was heavy and apparent during the moments before.

The celebration was about to begin and I rushed to our cueva, a small shack in the woods, and began to assume form. Starting with the pantalones, I inserted my legs into the purple, embroidered costume.

Following that I put on the top piece. I then donned the mask of the Diablo Cohuelo, with its bright purple features and large sharp teeth, glaring eyes and beautiful craft. The final piece, a corona, was then draped over the back of my mask and down the back of my costume; completing the transformation.

As everyone had already been in line, I walked alone through the woods to join the rest of the comparsas, passing by those who lingered behind as well.

Upon arriving, the drums began to start up and the festivities began.

Hundreds of characters filled the streets of Callejon. We danced madly down the road, passing hundreds of lit-up faces along the side of the road. Often times I’d approach the viewers and watch as the faces of little children gleamed with both excitement and terror at the sight of the Diablo Cohuelo.

We were now out of the shade of the trees above and the sun beat down heavily upon our constantly moving bodies. It was a stifling heat but the music disallowed us from stopping our entranced motion, there was too much excitement and joy in the air. The clapping and cheering of the crowd added to the beat of the drum, giving these characters life they do not have on other days of the year.

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The colorful homes and stores that lined the streets stood as incredible backdrops for the scene. Balconies served as a space for viewing parties while kids and teenagers stood outside the colmado in awe. Colorful people of all ages lined the streets to celebrate this multi-century old tradition.

We eventually arrived at the other end of Callejon and turned onto the main road towards the beach. The celebration opened up as even more spectators flooded the streets. Here, the demographic changed as people who have come to Cabarete from all over the world crowded the sidelines.

This overwhelming embrace of this local tradition was felt through the town and people both in and out of costume danced around the street.

The Carnaval ended on the beach where two stages marked the final gathering of the comparsas. Comparsas danced on the white sands with the sea painting the background. Spectators and performers gathered in celebration as comparsas marched across stage. Politicians spoke and spokesmen/women honored the success of the day. Here, the celebration would go until sunrise as live bands played music and people danced into the night.

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And in the undressing of my costume, the Diablo Cohuelo was put to rest for yet another year.

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