4 minute read
Food That Honors a Promise
From a grandmother’s kitchen to York’s historic Penn Market, Ethel's Barbecue & Catering is carrying on family traditions
By Sully Pinos | Executive Director, BLOOM Business Empowerment Center
When you step inside Penn Market, York’s historic downtown market house in the WeCo District, one scent stops you in your tracks. The smoky aroma of brisket, chicken, and ribs leads straight to Ethel’s Barbeque & Catering, where owner Mark Simpson is serving up more than plates—he’s serving legacy.
The story starts with Mark’s grandmother, Ethel, who introduced him to cooking at the age of 15. Her guidance sparked his love for both food and community, and inspired his commitment to keeping her legacy alive. “I made a promise to my grandmother, Ethel, on her deathbed that I would open this restaurant,” Mark revealed. “That’s where the name comes from. I still carry her photo with me—she’s a part of everything we do here.” Over four decades later, that vow continues to be the heart of his mission and business.
In 2009, he left a steady city job to pursue his dream of owning a restaurant. At first, Penn Market’s manager was skeptical, expecting another shortlived hot dog stand. But one taste of Mark’s barbecue changed everything. “He told me, ‘Sign right away,’ and I’ve been here ever since.”
Housed in WeCo’s historic Penn Market, with its 19th-century architecture and bustling energy, provides the perfect backdrop for a business built on heritage and resilience. “Penn Market is history— it’s where York has always gathered for food and community,” said Mark. “Being here connects us to that tradition and roots us in the heart of downtown.”
The “family” behind Ethel’s continues to play an active role in its daily operations. Before the COVID pandemic, up to 11 family members worked together at the restaurant. Among them were Mark’s late Uncle Henry, his fiancée’s mother Helen, and Abe—a close friend who became like family—all of whom left a lasting impact on the business. Today, the next generation is taking the reins. Mark’s daughter, Ke’Aujonea Simpson, has been working alongside him for the past five years, helping to carry that original promise into the future.
What sets Ethel’s apart as a true destination is its authenticity, which has earned a devoted following of both locals and visitors who keep coming back for its homestyle flavors. Every dish is made from scratch—from sauces and seasonings to the fish rubs—guaranteeing consistent, bold flavor in every bite. “People know what they’re getting here,” Mark says. “It’s the kind of flavor you can’t buy off a store shelf.” As for the meats, a 22-year partnership with Weavers of Wellsville ensures they’re always top quality.
Ethel’s is preparing for its next chapter. The restaurant will soon relocate to a prime front-facing spot in Penn Market, where the sight and smell of the pit master will greet visitors before they step inside.
As a York County School of Technology (YCST) alum, Mark also hopes to bring students into the kitchen for hands-on training. Expansion plans include a mobile food trailer to reach festivals and events, while continuing to advocate for Penn Market’s growth with more vendors like Amish cheesemakers and fresh produce stands.
Ethel’s is more than just great food—it’s a living tribute to family, tradition, and the power of a promise kept. Through every made-from-scratch dish and every familiar face behind the counter, Mark and his team continue to honor the spirit of community and the legacy that started with his grandmother.
Ethel's Barbecue & Catering | 380 W Market St (Inside Penn Market) | 717.873.1211 | marksimpsonsr@gmail.com
