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Vol 32 • No 03
$4.99
August 2019
12 Pages of Puzzles!
Suffragettes in the City Guy Earle: Master Mariner The Accidental Prison Colony
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Have adventure in your heart? Start with the ocean beneath your feet.
Your perfect summer vacation begins on our ferries. Book your crossing today.
marineatlantic.ca
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life is better Published monthly in St. John’s by Downhome Publishing Inc. 43 James Lane, St. John’s, NL, A1E 3H3 Tel: 709-726-5113 • Fax: 709-726-2135 • Toll Free: 1-888-588-6353 E-mail: mail@downhomelife.com Website: www.downhomelife.com Editorial Editor-in-Chief Janice Stuckless Assistant Editor Elizabeth Whitten Special Publications Editor Tobias Romaniuk Editorial Intern Steven Tapper Art and Production Art Director Vince Marsh Graphic and Web Designer Cory Way Illustrator Mel D’Souza Illustrator Snowden Walters Advertising Sales Senior Account Manager Robert Saunders Account Manager Barbara Young Marketing Director Tiffany Brett
Warehouse Operations Warehouse / Inventory Manger Carol Howell Warehouse Operator Josephine Collins Sr. Customer Service Associate Sharon Muise Inventory Control Clerk Heather Lane Warehouse Associate Anthony Sparrow Retail Operations Retail Floor Manager, St. John’s Jackie Rice Retail Floor Manager, Twillingate Donna Keefe Retail Sales Associates Crystal Rose, Emma Goodyear, Jonathon Organ, Nicole French, Elizabeth Gleason, Melissa Wheeler, Rebecca Ford, Erin McCarthy, Mackenzie Stockley, Marlene Burt, Jackie Burt
Subscriptions Sr. Administrative Assistant Amanda Ricks Customer Service Associate Ciara Hodge
Finance and Administration Junior Accountant Marlena Grant Accounting Assistant Sandra Gosse Founding Editor Ron Young Operations Manager, Twillingate Nicole Mehaney Chief Executive Officer / Publisher Grant Young President Todd Goodyear Chief Financial Officer Tina Bromley
To subscribe, renew or change address use the contact information above. Subscriptions total inc. taxes, postage and handling: for residents in NL $39; AB, BC, MB, NU, NT, QC, SK, YT $40.95; ON $44.07; NB, NS, PE $44.85. US and International mailing price for a 1-year term is $49.00.
Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement #40062919 The advertiser agrees that the publisher shall not be liable for damages arising out of errors in advertisements beyond the amount paid for the space actually occupied by the portion of the advertisement in which the error occurred, whether such error is due to the negligence of the servants or otherwise, and there shall be no liability beyond the amount of such advertisement. The Letters to the Editor section is open to all letter writers providing the letters are in good taste, not libelous, and can be verified as true, correct and written by the person signing the letter. Pen names and anonymous letters will not be published. The publisher reserves the right to edit, revise, classify, or reject any advertisement or letter. © Downhome Publishing Inc. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without permission of the publisher. We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada.
Printed in Canada Official onboard magazine of
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Contents
AUGUST 2019
54 Living off the Land In Part 1 of this series on agriculture in Newfoundland and Labrador, Elizabeth Whitten gets in the trenches (vegetable trenches, that is) with local farmers who have a lot to say about their trade today and their concerns for tomorrow.
86 Happy Trails What makes the Newfoundland cycling experience unique and largely unexplored Tobias Romaniuk
92 Suffragettes in the City
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summer sweets www.downhomelife.com
The Other Women Walk takes to the streets for a second year. Elizabeth Whitten
110 No-Bake Summer Desserts! With only a few weeks left to summer, don’t spend it sweating over an oven. Enjoy whipping up these instead! August 2019
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Contents
AUGUST 2019
homefront 10 I Dare Say A note from the editor 11 Contributors Meet the people behind the magazine 12 Letters From Our Readers Look who’s 100, seeking stamps and what are “flummies”?
20 Downhome Tours Explore Egypt
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in love with Egypt
with Downhome
22 Why Is That Why do we count sheep to fall asleep and why do roosters crow at dawn? Linda Browne
24 That’s Amazing Wild news from around the world
26 Life’s Funny Definitions of Dirt Betty Kellestine
27 Say What A contest that puts words in someone else’s mouth
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summer on paws
28 Lil Charmers Icebergs Ahead! 30 Pets of the Month Smell the Flowers
32 Blast from the Past Remember pagers?
34 Poetic Licence Twin Lakes Song Roland Hull
36 Reviewed Readers’ picks for top summer reads 4
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32 pager out of history 1-888-588-6353
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44 wonder at the wheel
66 scenic eye
38 What Odds House hunting with Paul Warford 40 In Your Words The Slut Art Keeble
features 44 Master of the Trade The life and times of Guy Earle, schooner captain and navigator extraordinaire Kim Ploughman
48 Playing the Field Locals both young and old bring the passion of football to Newfoundland and Labrador. Steve Tapper
50 The Myrick Light Still Shines A visit with artist and musician Michelle Myrick. Wendy Rose
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what did you call me? www.downhomelife.com
62 Return to Grey Islands A trip to a long abandoned community through the memories of a former resident. Dennis Flynn
66 Sure Shots Featuring photographer Patrick McKeown August 2019
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Contents
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world-class trails
explore 74 What’s on the Go Exciting events happening around Newfoundland and Labrador 76 A Peek at Pond Life Todd Hollett 82 On the Right Path The East Coast Trail Association marks 25 years of marking and preserving world-class hiking paths. Dennis Flynn 98 Exploring the Art in Nature Elizabeth Whitten takes the Boreal Poetry Garden tour.
food and leisure 106 Everyday Gourmet Newfoundland Berry Trifle Andrea Maunder
118 Down to Earth How to mass plant shrubs for late summer and fall colour Ross Traverse 6
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122 vintage style
reminiscing 122 Flashbacks Classic photos of people and places
123 This Month in History The day HMS Calypso joined the war
124 Visions and Vignettes Gnat, do you mind … Stampedes? Harold N. Walters 128 Newfoundlandia The Last North American Prison Ship Chad Bennett
About the cover Reader Nicole Burke was rewarded with this view of Torbay Point during her hike on the East Coast Trail. Turn to page 82 to learn more about this world-class hiking network.
Cover Index 12 Pages of Puzzles • 148 Faces of Farming • 54 No-Bake Desserts • 110 Happy Trails • 82 & 86 Suffragettes in the City • 92 Guy Earle: Master Mariner • 44 The Accidental Prison Colony • 128 www.downhomelife.com
130 Looking in Through My Kitchen Window Dolly Butt 132 The Fire of ’58 How one day was seared into the memories of this Newfoundland family Joy Philpott
136 Between the Boulevard and the Bay Ron Young 140 Mail Order 144 Real Estate 146 Marketplace 148 Puzzles 160 Photo Finish August 2019
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homefront lil charmers
Icebergs Ahead! Out for a Drive
Layken enjoys a day on the water getting a close-up with icebergs. Tina Glover Wareham, Bonavista Bay, NL
All Smiles
Benson Doucette finally gets to see his first iceberg in Torbay, NL. Alana Doucette Via Downhomelife.com
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Handy to a Berg
Ben loves iceberg hunting along the shore. Cassandra Bishop Cupids, NL
On the Look Out
Three-and-a-half-year-old Amelia Lambert from Ragged Point, NL, uses her Poppy’s binoculars to spot icebergs beyond the sea ice in the cove. Marilyn Blake Whitby, ON
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homefront pets of the month
smell the flowers Among the Dandelions
Jack loves his daily walks, but sometimes you have to stop and just be in the moment. Carla Tulloch Petawawa, ON
Big Blooms Louie’s taking the time to admire the flowers. Joanna Green Harbour Breton, NL
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Doggy Daybed
Sweet little Frisbee relaxes in the neighbour’s flowerbed. (Hopefully the blooms bounce back!) Michele D. Verge Rockland, ON
Sittin’ Pretty
Navi has her very own chair with a view and surrounded by pretty greenery. Carol & John Parsons Fort McMurray, AB
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homefront in your words
The Slut By Art Keeble Musquodoboit Harbour, NS
The late 1980s found me doing some work at the Fisheries College in St. John’s, NL. One day I required a cylinder of dry nitrogen for a demo, and my contact at the college offered to take me to get some over the noon hour. After the pickup we stopped for lunch. It was a rainysnowy, dreary day. Over the meal we talked about our lives, families – normal small talk. He told me how he had recently remarried and how much he enjoyed being in the woods, hunting etc. When we left the restaurant, it had turned into a gorgeous sunny day. “Great!” my friend said. “If the weather holds, I’ll get me slut and me dog and go into the woods.” As we drove along I asked if his wife liked the woods as much as he did. “No, b’y. Why do you ask?” “Well,” I replied, “you said you would get your slut and your dog and go into the woods if the weather held.” He took to laughing so hard he drove the vehicle onto the shoulder of the road and back. “No, no! Me slut, it’s me kettle!” He then went on to explain that a slut was a tin kettle with a large flat bottom so it could be heated quickly in the woods over a birch bark fire. They were often made at school as a project in shop class. I apologized, which only made him laugh more – making me feel better, as he was a very large man and had he taken offence he could have broken me in two! When I left the hotel I’d been staying at, the desk clerk handed me a box. In40
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side was a tin kettle and a note: “Art, this is a slut! Thanks for the course.” Over the years I have related this story to many people and have come to believe that the word “slut” meaning kettle is a localized term because a lot of Newfoundlanders I have met are unfamiliar with it. I still have the kettle and note, and whenever I look at it I can’t help but smile.
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life is better Sunset on Exploits Island, NL Jordan Woolfrey, Grand Falls-Windsor, NL
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features
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For as long as I can remember,
whenever my mom visits her sister in Conception Bay South, Newfoundland and Labrador, she often comes back with a bag filled with some type of root vegetable, typically potatoes. They’ve never seen the inside of a grocery store and sometimes they still have a bit of soil clinging to them, which washes away easily enough before being cooked up for Sunday dinner. We call them “Jim’s Potatoes,” after my uncle Jim Ade, a farmer from a long line of farmers. He’s lived his whole life on this one plot of land that’s been in his family for generations. While Jim’s retired now, there’s still plenty to keep him busy. Before he even sits down for his own breakfast, he heads out to feed the hens. “Around a farm, there’s always something to do. Always. There’s never nothing to do,” he says, whether it’s animals and crops to care for or equipment to repair. “And the way it is on a farm, small farms like this, you were a jack-of-alltrades; you had to be able to try to fix stuff yourself.” Jim adds, “People will say, ‘Ah, you’re working on your own, do what’cha like, when you like.’ But it don’t work like that. What you don’t do today gotta be done tomorrow, and then you’re behind!”
Not only did he grow vegetables, he’d also buy cattle to butcher and sell the meat to people in the nearby city. It was common practice back in the day, when men like him were called “hawkers.” They’d have regular customers and would drop off a delivery of cut-up meat and vegetables once a week, all year-round. Once they ran out of veggies in the winter, it would just be the meat. “It’s how they made a living out here,” Jim says. “I never ever minded killing cattle or anything like that; that was no work. And if you like something, as you know, it’s not work. If you don’t like it, it is the hardest work. So that’s the way it was with me anyway… I was a pretty lucky fella that way.” These days, Jim works a very small bit of land and it’s changed over the years. Trees have taken over the field where cattle used to roam and graze.
Left: Jim Ade teaches his grandson about farming on his family land in Conception Bay South. www.downhomelife.com
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Some of the best farmland in eastern Newfoundland, in Kilbride and the Goulds, has been turned over to housing. “It’s all built up now, pretty well,” Jim says. “Jeez, you wouldn’t know it; it’s all subdivisions everywhere.” And it kind of flies in the face of current concerns around food security. “That’s all they’re talking about now, every time you pick up a paper, pretty well: try to be a little bit self-sufficient in the production of food. And I mean, then you go along and you’ll see the best farm area in a place being all built up!” But you can’t really blame property owners for selling quality farmland if they’re not farmers. After all, if you inherit 15 acres but you don’t farm, what do you do with it? Jim asks. In an ideal world, that land would be bought by an interested farmer, but farmers don’t typically have that kind of money. Still, it’d be nice to see that land protected or some sort of government buy-back program to ensure that valuable land isn’t gobbled up by houses. There’s also the looming issue of the aging population of farmers, and in Jim’s area he mostly only knows older men about to retire. In fact, according to Statistics Canada, the number of farms in Newfoundland and Labrador decreased 20.2 per cent between 2011 and 2016, which was the biggest recorded drop in the country. But it’s not all bad news: while there are fewer farms overall, the report notes there are more women getting into farming. It’s not easy to get a young person to give up an urban life or office work to go farming when they’re used to 56
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money coming in all the time, Jim says. There’s unpredictability in farming. “You could set the crop the year and Jesus, it don’t come every year. Everything don’t work the same every year,” he says, adding if you have a family to support, what can you do? “You’ve got to be kinda cut out for it or geared up for it. There’s no guarantees with it. But it’s a great way of life if you like it.”
Forging Food Attitudes
Along Brookfield Road, about where St. John’s meets Mount Pearl and just a stone’s throw away from the busy road, are fields of green and swaths of earth covered in plastic sheets protecting the growing plants beneath, and long stretches of massive greenhouses. This is Lester’s Farm Market. The Lester family has been providing food to the province for more than 160 years, making Susan Lester a sixth generation farmer. While she did work in other industries for a time, she eventually returned to the farm to continue the Lester legacy. She is also chair of the Newfoundland and Labrador Young Farmers Forum (NLYFF), helping young farmers connect to discuss common issues, as well as forge a sustainable agricultural industry and promote food self-sufficiency in the province. “There’s not one right way or wrong way; there’s many different avenues for farming. So it’s very important to have constant learning opportunities,” Susan says. Throughout the year NLYFF hosts conferences and workshops. It’s a great resource for young farmers 1-888-588-6353
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An overhead view of the rows of greenhouses at Lester’s Farm. Tobias Romaniuk photo
because while people can look up things online, the information won’t necessarily be right for Newfoundland and Labrador’s conditions, cautions Susan. For instance, they recently had a workshop on NL soil conditions. Membership is open to people between the ages of 18 and 40 who are actively farming and gardening as their livelihood. You’ll get people whose family goes back generations in farming meeting with newcomers, along with those who are interested in farming and are now making the transition, she says. All across www.downhomelife.com
Canada there are chapters of Young Farmers Forums, so farmers in this province are also able to network across the country. The average age of a farmer in NL is around 55, which is a concerning number because as these people get ready to retire there aren’t the same number of farmers taking up those posts. The NLYFF reaches out to those who could be or want to be the next generation of farmers in this province. Making the shift from office job to farmer can be a big adjustment and it’s not for everyone, Susan cautions. August 2019
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“It’s a full commitment. It’s not just physical labour, it’s mental labour. There’s more to it than just one task. Everything is kind of like a domino effect.” Susan explains, if you’re not good at seeding or don’t properly water your fields, that means you won’t have a good crop. “I guess a lot of people are starting to… realize this can be their lifestyle. And it’s not just a job – it really is a lifestyle. It’s not a nine to five. There’s crops out there, there’s animals out there, you’re up early hours and late hours at night with the animals, putting in the irrigation system for the frost, so it’s very unique and diverse of what you do each day. And some people, that’s what they want. They don’t want the same thing day in and day out. In farming, no day is the same, for sure.” Farming is a profession where people need to be willing to constantly learn, adapt and grow, and Susan has some advice for those interested in becoming farmers: “I would definitely say, never get discouraged. Farming is hard work.” There will be years where you do everything right, and for whatever reasons, it still fails, “It’s really important to never get discouraged and never base your next season on your past season’s failure. Because if you did that, you wouldn’t get very far. If we did that, we probably would have stopped back 30 years ago or even more.”
A Fresh Face in Farming
Right now, looking down at her field in Conception Bay South, Trina Porter has what she calls a grocery
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store in the ground. At her farm, she grows celery, cilantro, parsley, “real turnip” (different from rutabaga, which she also grows), as well as rhubarb, bok choy, lettuce, tomatoes, zucchini, three varieties of winter squash, plenty of root vegetables and cabbage; basically, “whatever you put into your Jiggs dinner,” she adds. With three hectares to work with, she has to plant every portion of her land. So between rows of cabbages, lettuce heads are popping up; nestled among the bok choy are radishes. This kind of intensive farming helps deal with pests and weed problems. After all, if the space is already filled with vegetables, there’s no place for weeds to get in and cause trouble. Trina’s a first generation commercial farmer (her great-grandfather farmed, but the two never met). When she was growing up, her family, like many, had a carrot patch and grew some potatoes, but just enough to feed themselves and their immediate family. The land she farms now has been in her family for several decades, something she considers fortunate, as buying that much land today would be very expensive. Cost is another reason she was motivated to farm her own food. She’s a vegetarian and fresh vegetables can get costly at the supermarket. It made sense to grow what she could, “And then it turned out that I could grow an awful lot.” The idea for a farm started a few years ago with a greenhouse Trina shared with her parents. Initially, her crop of choice was tomatoes. They grew so many and so well that they had too many for them to eat, so 1-888-588-6353
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they thought maybe they could make a business out of it. That was back in the fall of 2017. The next year marked their first commercial season, and now Trina and her parents operate the Foxtrap Access Road Market (FARM). They also run a Community Shared Agriculture program where members sign up and get a regular bag of produce throughout the year, depending on what’s in season – similar to what Jim Ade did on his farm for years. Farming is a profession that requires long hours and it’s not for the faint of heart, Trina says. “If you put it on paper how many hours you work, it sounds absolutely ridiculous. And it’s hard to capture, too, what we get out of it because it’s a bit of a hobby gone wrong,” she says. “So when people ask me what do I do in my spare time, I’m like, ‘I garden?’ It’s my hobby, it’s my work, it’s my relaxation and then it’s also putting food on my own plate.” And Trina doesn’t mean that figuratively through the income it brings in – the food she gardens ends up on her plate. Working with the earth was pretty far from her expectations for the future when she started her masters in political science two years ago. www.downhomelife.com
Trina Porter in her vegetable garden – a hobby that has turned into a full-time occupation. Wanda Porter photo
“No, this was not in the plan. It was really at the time how I managed my stress from being in a masters program. I was going out to the greenhouse to just clear my mind and just loved it a little too much, I guess.” While it’s a commonly repeated August 2019
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refrain that growing anything on “The Rock” is a Herculean task, Trina’s more optimistic: “There’s so much to be done here, and if you have the privilege to have a greenhouse, it’s even more so.” People assume that to grow tomatoes here, it must be done inside the protective embrace of a greenhouse, but Trina plants her 200 tomato plants outside. Trina would love to see more people growing what they can in their backyards, even if it wasn’t with the goal to become completely self-sufficient. Imagine being able to go into the backyard and grab a bit of lettuce and a fresh tomato for your burger?
Craving Local
Currently, Newfoundland and Labrador ships in 90 per cent of the food we consume, and that needs to change. There have been times in recent years that bad weather has kept the boats from getting into our ports and as a result, grocery store shelves went empty. With climate change, we’re told to expect more severe weather more often, so here we can expect shipping delays to increase. “We need a lot more food than what we’re able to produce each year, whether that’s vegetable food, animal food, whatever it may be. So the more people [farming], the better,”
Susan stresses. And Susan’s seen a shift in attitude when it comes to food in the last decade. People want to have a connection to their food and know where it’s coming from. There’s also been a surge of people interested in growing their own food. These are probably all factors that have appealed to the newer generation of farmers. Like Susan, Trina’s also seen a hunger for locally grown food. People don’t want food that’s been shipped from one end of the country, loaded onto a boat and driven across the province before it finally makes its way onto the shelf of a grocery store. Not only is local better for our economy and the environment, “it has such a different taste, too,” she says. Trina says she knows people who won’t eat a tomato at all in the winter because they only eat local tomatoes and say that grocery store ones just don’t cut it anymore. From Trina’s experience selling fresh produce, the demand for local is booming. She regularly goes to the CBS Market and has a stall at the St. John’s Farmers’ Market where she sells veggies, herbs, seedlings and potted plants. “By the end of the day, if you come too late in the day… you won’t get fresh produce at the Farmers’ Market because I just simply don’t have enough.” And for a farmer doing business, that’s a good thing.
Join us next month for part 2 of the Future of Farming series when Downhome talks to people in government and education who are supporting our farmers in the important effort to increase Newfoundland and Labrador’s food security for the coming years. 60
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features
sureSHOTS Featuring photographer Patrick McKeown
From cars to cruise ships, berries to birds, Patrick McKeown has photographed it all in his decades behind the lens. “I began taking photos when a family friend gave me an old 35mm camera when I was approximately 12 years old,” he says. In high school he took a photography course and discovered it went right along with his love of cars, especially race cars. He began investing in better cameras and equipment. Throughout a career in sales, photography remained a passionate hobby.
Patrick and his wife Barbara moved from Ontario to Pasadena, NL, in 2017. Now retired, he has plenty of time for personal pursuits. When scouting with his camera, Patrick looks for a fresh perspective on things. “Finding a unique vantage point or capturing something others might miss is all a part of what I practise to capture,” he says. Currently, Patrick has three cameras that each have their purpose. “I recently purchased a Nikon Coolpix P1000 that features a single lens that goes from wide angle to a 3000 mm telephoto. I also own a Nikon 401X DSLR that is compact and uses a wider angle zoom lens as one of the two interchangeable lenses I have for it. Finally, I own a very compact Nikon KeyMission camera that easily slips into a shirt pocket. I’ll carry this 66
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into an indoor event where a larger camera may be uncomfortable to use. I have also taken this little gem on holidays. It’s perfect for making certain that you always have a camera available.” Living in Western Newfoundland, Patrick says there is no shortage of interesting things to shoot. Gros Morne National Park is one of his favourite places – you can’t get much more inspirational than that. But Patrick also finds his muse in Corner Brook harbour. In fact, it’s the location of a very special project he’s working on. “I have made a filming project to photograph the arrival of the different cruise ships in Corner Brook this year,” he explains. “The size and beauty of these ships are varied; however, the Queen Mary 2 is one of 1-888-588-6353
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my personal favourites. Last summer it arrived in poor weather, so I’m hopeful for better conditions (and results) this year.” Sometimes a striking image is a lucky shot or happy accident. Patrick recalls a print he made a number of years ago for a home show. “As I used slide film in those days, I began sorting through my work, to pick a few candidates I felt worthwhile. One slide of a sunset in the Agawa Canyon slipped out of my hand and landed squarely on top of a macro shot of some shiny red berries,” he recalls. “Together they looked incredible, somehow other worldly.” He had one 11" x 17" print made of the combined slides; Patrick recalls the print shop had such a difficult time reproducing the image that they 68
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refused to make any more. He mounted it in an oak frame and made it the centrepiece of the show exhibit. When an elderly lady stopped to admire and ask about it, he was about to explain to her the complicated process of combining the two slides when she commented that she’d never buy it. “Why not?” he asked. “I took a picture exactly like this, with my Brownie Instamatic.” While certainly humbled, it didn’t deter Patrick’s photography ambitions. It’s been years since that encounter and his joy for the art form doesn’t seem to have dulled any. In addition to wildlife and landscape photography, he says, “Cars still appeal to me, too, so if there’s a local car show, I’ll be there!” 1-888-588-6353
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Get your photos in before submissions close August 31! Submit your best photos of scenery, activities and icons that illustrate the down-home lifestyle. We’re looking for a variety of colourful subjects – outports, heritage animals, laundry lines, historic sites, seascapes, hilltop views and so much more – and photos from all four seasons. In addition to free calendars and a one-year subscription to Downhome for all those chosen for the calendar, one lucky winner will receive a free trip for four aboard O’Brien’s famous whale and bird boat tours!
Here’s how to submit: Online: www.downhomelife.com/calendar By mail: Downhome Calendar Contest 43 James Lane St. John’s, NL A1E 3H3
Digital photos must be at least 300 dpi, files sizes of about 1MB Must be original photos or high quality copies. We can’t accept photocopies or photos that are blurry, too dark or washed out. Include a self-addressed stamped envelope if you want your photos returned.
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explore
“The most important thing that keeps me here, really, is the coastal experience,” says avid mountain biker and trail builder Chris Jerrett. “Especially one as rugged and as rough going as the coastline of Newfoundland, which is really conducive to mountain biking.”
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Dru Kennedy photo
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The terrain is rocky, with a lot of hard roots. It’s technical mountain biking, the sort that presents a fun challenge for the experienced mountain biker on trails that, at times, run right along the coast. “There’s not really many places anywhere else in North America where you can do that,” says Chris, who owns Freeride Mountain Sports bike shop in St. John’s. Mountain biking, and cycling in general, isn’t exactly popular in Newfoundland and Labrador, which is perplexing given the excellent and abundant terrain. Then again, there aren’t that many mountain biking trails. But it’s not a problem unique to this province – bicycles just aren’t as popular on the east coast as they are on the west coast of North America, where mountain biking as we know it today has its roots. And roots, in part, are what make the trails on the island of Newfoundland so good – tree roots, that is. 88
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Together with the rocky ground and uneven landscape, they make for the sort of technical and challenging riding that defines the Newfoundland mountain biking trail experience. Although several communities have gravel trails that allow bicycles, including the cross-island T’Railway, these aren’t really proper mountain bike trails, which are also commonly referred to as singletrack (a trail wide enough for a single bicycle); think of the East Coast Trail, but for cyclists rather than hikers. In the St. John’s area, many of these trails are concentrated in two spots – White Hills and Pippy Park. In White Hills, the trails range from Subnet, a technical and challenging trail with rolling terrain through the forest, to Oceanside, a more advanced, steeper and exposed trail that, at times, runs along the open coastline and has a greater elevation drop than Subnet. They’re the sort of trails made for full suspension 1-888-588-6353
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Types of Mountain Bikes With information from Chris Jerrett, owner of Freeride Mountain Sports
XC racer “Specifically for racing.” These bikes are light, fast and made to win races at the World Cup and Olympic level.
Trail “Probably better for more easy going, groomed type environments.” These bikes are meant for recreational riding on mellower trails.
All Mountain – the one that’s smack dab in the middle of it all. “You can downhill pretty effectively, you can climb almost as effectively as a trail or as an XC, then you’ve got big tires and wide tires, so it’s easy on the down.” Dru Kennedy photo
bikes with plenty of travel – in other words, “all mountain” style bikes (see sidebar). Although a hardtail trail bike can be used on these trails, it’s not ideal. Pippy Park, on the other hand, has a network of easier trails, with a mix of doubletrack and singletrack trails, all of which can be ably handled on a trail or cross-country bike. Although easier, these trails still offer a fun ride, and the overlapping, crisscrossing trail network allows you to mix up the route selection each time for a new riding experience. Don Planchet, an employee at Canary Cycles in St. John’s, is also an avid cyclist with plenty of experience riding the local trails. “It’s hard, but it’s fun,” he says of the St. John’s-area mountain bike trails. “But you have to have a certain skill level to ride real trails because it’s just so steep, and rocky, and technical. It’s nothing like the mainland,” he says, referring to the more www.downhomelife.com
Enduro “The next one up. It’s a race classification, too, and those bikes are pretty good… they’re pretty pedally.” As a class of bike, they are made for enduro racing, and tend to be optimized for downhill performance. But unlike strict downhill racing bikes, they can also hold their own on the uphills. Downhill Racer “More race or bike park oriented, like Whistler. That type of bike is not popular here because… there’s no facilities for that type of bike.” These bikes excel at going downhill very fast, taking big jumps and large drops, and racing on the World Cup downhill circuit. Although they have gears and pedals, their weight and geometry make them quite unpleasant to pedal uphill. They are a purpose-built bike, unlike the more generalist bikes in the trail or all mountain classes.
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Dennis Flynn photo
difficult trails. “It’s constantly bang, bang, bang,” says Don, referring to the impact it can have on your body, “so full suspension or big tires, or full suspension with big tires, seems to help a lot.”
Head out on the Highway It’s not all roots, rocks and trails for Newfoundland riders, though. Road cycling also offers something novel for the rider who prefers pavement. “The most unique thing we have is our coastline,” says Don, “so any coastal road is what I call ‘real Newfoundland’ riding.” Don pulls out a road map kept handy near the counter in Canary Cycles. It is folded to the eastern portion of the island, showing the Avalon and Bonavista peninsulas with several looping routes highlighted. It’s what shop staff direct people to 90
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whenever they ask about where to go road cycling. The Cape Shore, Irish Loop and Baccalieu Trail each make for a good cycling trip. Each can be done as a loop, so you’re never riding the same road twice. “That whole perimeter of the Avalon is more distance than across the island, with a lot more scenery. So I always recommend people skip the central highway, rumble strip and trucks, and bang around the Avalon. It’s a lot more fun and scenic,” says Don. Leaving from St. John’s, the Irish Loop round trip route is 320 km, says Don, and although he’s done it in a day, most people take two days to do the trip. It takes in such scenic outports as Witless Bay, Ferryland and Trepassey, while encircling the Avalon Wilderness Reserve. The roads don’t have a lot of shoulder – 1-888-588-6353
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Dennis Flynn photo
or any, in some places – but there also isn’t a whole lot of traffic to contend with, which is a pleasant switch for anyone used to riding in more populated areas or along major highways. “If you drive an hour… anywhere out of town, you’d be surprised at how few cars there are,” says Don. “I was out last weekend and I saw five cars the whole time.” Scenic rides with few cars on quiet roads in areas with sporadic cellphone coverage can be a glorious thing, but it also means riders should to be somewhat self-sufficient, cautions Don, who recommends bringing everything needed to change a flat tire. And because the roads can be a bit rough, making flat tires a distinct possibility, racing-style road bikes – with their stiff construction, lightweight materials and ultra www.downhomelife.com
skinny tires – aren’t the best choice. “Getting flats isn’t fun, so we always recommend the heavier duty road bikes that have slightly bigger tires,” says Don. “And you can hit potholes and not break things, so they tend to be a little more rugged but better suited for multi-purpose use.” Off the Avalon, Don recommends the Bonavista Peninsula; in particular, Route 235, which hugs the coast in several places and is a visual feast. It is, says Don, a beautiful stretch of road with lots of hills. The Bonavista Peninsula is also the site of the BonRexton, a 133-km Gran Fondo style (long-distance) group ride happening September 7. With all this talk of narrow roads, long distances and less than perfect road conditions, one may think these routes are only for the experienced rider. But really, anyone can do these rides – the only difference is how fast the route will be completed, says Don. He’s being encouraging, sure, but he’s also seen people of all ages and abilities do these rides. About 150 of those riders stop by the shop every season after having completed one of the longest rides – clear across Canada. “Anyone can do it,” says Don. “We’re the end of the line for coming across Canada, so we’re seeing every type of cyclist. And there’s a lot more older, retired people now.” For more information on the mountain bike trails mentioned here, go to www.trailforks.com and search for “Pippy Park” or “White Hills.” August 2019
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Partridgeberry Nanaimo Bars 1 cup graham crumbs 1/3 cup dark cocoa powder 1 cup rolled oats 1/2 cup sweetened condensed milk 1 1/2 cups partridgeberries, frozen and thawed (reserve juice)
1/4 cup lime juice 6 cups icing sugar, sifted 1/4 cup custard powder, sifted 1/4 cup butter 1 1/2 cups semi-sweet chocolate chips
Base Combine crumbs, cocoa, oats and sweetened condensed milk; press tightly into the bottom of a 9"x13" pan.
the base evenly and press down. Refrigerate.
Filling Blend thawed berries, their juices and lime juice in a high powered blender until liquefied. Strain the mixture to ensure there are no berry skins. Sift together icing sugar and custard powder, and mix into berry mixture (use your hands and knead it to get a play dough-like consistency). Spread the mixture over
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Topping Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add chocolate chips and stir until chocolate is just melted (not hot). Pour the warm mixture over refrigerated bars and spread evenly. Chill for at least 4 more hours before cutting. Yield: 24 small bars
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Peach-Lavender Fool 6 (canned) peach halves 12 lavender buds, dried 1/4 cup turbinado sugar 1 cup + 1/4 cup whipping cream 1 cup milk
2 egg yolks 1/3 cup sugar 2 tbsp cornstarch 1 tsp vanilla
Toss peach halves and lavender with the turbinado and set aside for flavours to meld. Whip the 1/4 cup whipping cream to soft peaks and set aside. Heat milk and 1 cup cream to a near boil, and remove from heat. In a bowl, whisk egg yolks, sugar and cornstarch together until well blended. Temper the egg mixture with the hot milk & cream, then return everything to the burner over medium heat and stir constantly until the mixture thickens and bubbles break the surface. Remove this custard from heat, stir in vanilla and place in an ice bath to cool. While it’s cooling, set the peach mixture in a small
saucepan and cook over mediumhigh heat until the peaches start to break down. Remove from heat and allow to cool completely. When custard is cooled, whisk it vigorously until it’s entirely smooth again, then fold in the whipped cream. When peaches are cooled, mash or whisk them briefly to break up the fruit a little and mix any separated juices back in. Gently, fold the peach mixture and the custard mixture together very briefly (you’re not going for a smooth, cohesive mixture). Portion it out into dessert dishes and refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving. Yield: 4 servings
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August 2019
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OVER $25s in saving ! by joining
Now more than ever a Downhome membership is a great value. Not only do you save over $25 off the cover price, you receive: 1 Year (12 issues) OF DOWNHOME
Free WALL CALENDAR Free EXPLORE TRAVEL GUIDE 2 Issues INSIDE LABRADOR †
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12 issues for $39* or 36 issues for $99**
Save up to $104** – 51% when you sign up for 3 years! Delivered with December’s issue. ††Delivered with June’s issue. Canadian mailing only. *Delivered February and August issues. **$104 off cover price.
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* Valid in Canada on a 1-year term. Total inc. taxes, postage and handling: for residents in NL $39; AB, BC, MB, NU, NT, QC, SK, YT $40.95; ON $44.07; NB, NS, PE $44.85. US and International mailing price for a 1-year term is $49.00. ** Valid in Canada on a 3-year term. Total inc. taxes, postage and handling: for residents in NL $99; AB, BC, MB, NU, NT, QC, SK, YT $103.95; ON $111.87; NB, NS, PE $113.85. US and International mailing price for a 3-year term is $140.00.
Send to Downhome, 43 James Lane, St. John’s, NL, A1E 3H3 or call 1-888-588-6353
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1908 mail order5_Mail order.qxd 7/4/19 5:01 PM Page 140
HOT SUMMER READS!
NEW!
You Can Take the The Last of the Boy out of the Bay – West Country Thomas G. Morry, Merchants C.J.A. Morry, ED Christoper J. A. Morry #77613 | $20.00 #77612 | $20.00
Stouts, Millers, & Forky-Tales – Chapman, Dixon, Parsons and Whitney #77565 | $34.95
The Last Mile, A Newfoundland Tragedy: The Incredible Journey of Baxter Penney – Hector M. Earle #77669 | $18.95
Shellbird – Floyd Spracklin #77670 | $18.95
I Did It My Way A Memoir by Milton Layte #77589 | $18.95
Sailor Soldier Rum-Runner – Jack Randell #77671 | $18.85
A Bewildering Week – Elena Fenrick #77668 | $18.95
Finding Jane: The Life and Adventures of the First Blackwood to Newfoundland – Jeff Blackwood #77672 | $19.95
PRICES IN EFFECT FOR AUGUST 2019
• For larger images visit www.shopdownhome.com • While supplies last
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FOR MORE SELECTION VISIT: www.shopdownhome.com
Books for Kids
Agnes Ayre's ABCs of Amazing Women - Jenny Higgins (Hard Cover) #77647 | $24.95 Nanny's Kitchen Party - Rebecca North #77678 | $12.95 One Brave Boy and his Cat - Dr. Andrew Peacock #77640 | $14.95 Flying Ace: Errol’s Gander Adventure - Sheilah Lukins #77566 | $12.95 Where are you, Puffling? - A Bird Island Adventure - Erika McGann #77685 | $9.99
2020 Calendars Newfoundland - Lloyd Pretty - 13.38" x 24" #77577 | $24.99 Newfoundland and Labrador - John Sylvester (16 Months) 7" x 7" #77644 | $9.99 Newfoundland and Labrador - John Sylvester (16 Months) 12" x 12" #77645 | $18.99
Keychains Yes B'y #77603 | Whada ya at? #77604 | Wicked #77658 Newfoundland with Heart #77602 | Rowhouse Charms #77658
$4.99 each
TO ORDER CALL: 1-888-588-6353
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HOT SUMMER DEALS!
Newfoundland Anchor Nautical Adventure #77648 | $49.99
2019 - Clarenville Pewter Ornament - Homecoming Lloyd Pretty #77646 | $17.99
Luggage Tag Newfoundland Sayings #64921 | $4.99
Nutcracker Fisherman - 14" #76002 | $29.99
Toque - The Rock with Newfoundland Map #59327 | $16.99
Newfoundland Stickers Newfoundland Stickers #65096 | $2.49 Newfoundland flag Stickers #65097 | $1.99 Large Newfoundland Sticker #77603 | $5.99
PRICES IN EFFECT FOR AUGUST 2019
• For larger images visit www.shopdownhome.com • While supplies last
Item #
Description
Central and Western Canada. 2-3 weeks USA. Guidelines set by Canada Post.
Delivery Time 3-5 days NL, NS & NB. 7-10 days
isfied, please let us know. We will exchange any item in resaleable condition. Sorry, no returns on earrings, books, CDs or DVDs. If you do not receive your order or it is damaged upon delivery, please let us know within 3 business days. Overnight delivery available: please call for details. Product prices and shipping costs may be subject to change without notice.
Service Guarantee If you are not completely sat-
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*
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USA add 15% (+ Shipping)
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$15.00
Price
*
NL, NS, PE, NB 15%; ON, 13%; BC, AB, NT, YK, NU, SK, QC, MB, 5%
Please make cheques payable to Downhome Incorporated and send to Downhome, 43 James Lane, St. John’s, NL A1E 3H3 Toll Free: 1-888-588-6353 • Fax: 709-726-2135 mailorder@downhomelife.com • www.shopDownhome.com
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Please complete your order form carefully. Please send this form along with payment to the address at bottom, or fax to 709-726-2135.
Shop online for more selection Visit: shopdownhome.com
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Lorl Guesthouse Located in Indian Bay
Full house. 3 bedrooms. $150 / night. Wi-Fi/cable Located on the Shore Highway 1hr 15 mins from Gander. Come from away and stay! Facebook.com/LorlGuesthouse • Lorlguesthousereservations@gmail.com
PRIVATE SALE BY OWNER Building in Town Square, Gander First Floor, Commercial 1700 Sq.Ft. Second Floor, Residential 1700 Sq.Ft. 2 bedroom apartment with separate entrance. More pictures on request
709-221-8757 or 709-424-0757 f.tizzard@nl.rogers.com
LAND FOR SALE Woody Point Bonne Bay
Beautiful view of the bay & Gros Morne Mountain • Water & Sewage Hook up • Sold as is
Contact 416-948-8191
OCEAN FRONT EASTERN NEWFOUNDLAND 56 acres of wooded ocean front land on Smith Sound, Trinity Bay. Priced at CAD $800,000
Contact Paul Quigley
709-747-2797 pquigley@penav.nf.net
Discount Storage St. John's, NL 709-726-6800 144
August 2019
(709) 726-5113 1-888-588-6353
advertising@downhomelife.com
1-888-588-6353
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CODROY VALLEY Cedar Bungalow
FOR SALE
Near Howley West Coast
8 acres mature trees, walking trail, plenty of wildlife. Rear boundary is Rocky Brook. Ideally located near Gros Morne, snowmobile trails, Humber River & Deer Lake Airport. Very quiet, ideal for nature lovers. $350,000
1700 Sq. Ft. Home & 2200 Sq. Ft. Garage on 1 Acre, 2 Bed, 1.5 Bath, Electric & Wood
Bungalow with beautiful view of mountains & river. 3 Bed • Full Basement 2 Sheds • 11.5 Acres
709-636-9191 709-636-3285
lorna-pike@hotmail.com Or 1-587-435-0587
Call 709-422-4590
Spectacular View and Very Private
$179,000
Spaniard’s Bay House 1860 sq ft Garage 1340 sq ft approx 5 acres of land $439,000.00 709-589-4179 mash961@yahoo.com
September 2019 Downhome Ad Booking Deadline July 26, 2019
FOR SALE Skipper Shea’s Lounge with House FLEUR DE LYS, NL
6000 Sq. Ft.Turnkey including: cold room, ice maker, glass washer, pool table & more! Propane Fireplace, Oil/Electric Heat. House includes: 2 BR, 3 Bath, Propane Fireplaces, Solarium, Jenn Air BBQ, Sauna & Hot Tub $449,000
Contact ShirleyRShea@yahoo.ca • 709-253-2121
FOR SALE
GLENBURNIE • BONNE BAY
House & Land, Furnished, 6 Room Bungalow, $67,000 For further info contact:
709-634-7492
PORT AU PORT EAST, NL
81 Hynes Road 4,600 sq. ft. home on fully landscaped 1 acre lot w/spectacular ocean view, stunning sunsets & lg. deck flanked by mini fruit orchard. 3 bdrm, 2.5 bathrm, ceramic & hardwood floors. Other features: Lg. Sunroom, 2 way Fireplace, Exercise Rm & Full Basement. An abundance of storage space. 709-648-2236 www.downhomelife.com
August 2019
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Announcements
Marketplace
Happy Anniversary
Jack & Hilda MacLaughlan Celebrating their 65th Wedding Anniversary on August 25th in Maitland, ON Blessed with 6 children, 14 grandchildren and 16 great grandchildren. Hilda is from Botwood and Jack is a retired Mountie from N.S.
Downhome Magazine Distributor Downhome Publications is looking to fill one position in the FORT MCMURRAY territory to distribute our monthly publication Downhome magazine. As an Ambassador of Downhome you will be providing customer service to consumers and store personnel. Responsible for receiving a monthly shipment of magazines and delivering them to multiple locations while seeking new sales opportunities and working with stores to establish preferred display space. Other responsibilities include maintaining and replenishing products in store racks, completing paperwork in store and remittances in a timely manner. This position requires repetitive lifting, carrying and positioning of product without assistance. Kneeling, squatting and reaching above the head may be required. Experience in magazine or newspaper distribution is considered an asset but not mandatory. Candidates must be friendly, familiar with the area, own a cell phone and own their own transportation. Background check and a valid driver’s license are required. Part-time Casual Position. Must be available the last week of every month (22nd to the end of the month).
Apply to Jobs@downhomelife.com with Subject Line “Downhome Magazine Distributor – Fort McMurray” and attach your resume and cover letter.
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Movers & Shippers Clarenville Movers
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Over 30 years Experience Tel: Cell:
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Moving you from Ontario and Newfoundland... or any STOP along the way!
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Call Today! 709-726-5113 Toll Free 1-888-588-6353 Email advertising@downhomelife.com
September 2019 Downhome Ad Booking Deadline July 26, 2019 www.downhomelife.com
August 2019
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photo finish
Wild
Beauty
While hiking Gros Morne’s Tablelands on a summer day, the submitter got down to bluebell level for this unique view of the landscape. Derek Butler St. John’s, NL
Do you have an amazing or funny photo to share? Turn to page 9 to find out how to submit. 160
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