Canadaâ€™s spa connection
FALL BEAUTY SPECIAL
a wellness escape for city dwellers
www.spainc.ca Publications Mail NO. 40026342
Quality Assurance Approved Spa
News from the spa industry
4 Fall beauty trends
19 A DIY beauty routine for spa clients
Millcroft Spa: A spa getaway outside the city
fall beauty special
Helping spa clients during cancer treatment
The latest in cosmetology research
14 Becoming a Quality Assurance Approved spa in Canada
fresh & new
Looking forward to Fall: New products, tools and equipment for your spa
Holistic health coach Gillian Brown
Cover photo: Millcroft Spa, Caledon, ON
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between us summer 2016
Skin Deep W
hen it comes to cosmetics, concealer and some setting powder are about all I need. If I’m feeling fancy, I might throw in some lipstick. The point I’m trying to make is that I couldn’t tell eyeliner from lip liner if my life depended on it! Still, I am capable of appreciating the work of others. I can admire the creativity of permanent makeup artists like Tina Davies (check out my Q & A with her on the Spa Inc. blog www.spainc.ca/spa-blog) who can create realistic-looking brows for clients with little to none of their own. I can recognize merit in the efforts of oncology estheticians like Morag Currin who help cancer patients look and feel their Hermione Wilson best even as they endure physically taxing treatment assistant Editor (pg 22). Makeup is more than just window dressing for many women. It isn’t just a way to hide imperfections, but a creative expression. Makeup can be about experimenting with colour and form, and using the face as a canvas for creating art out of eye shadow and foundation. According to research psychologist Nancy Etcoff in a 2013 New York Times article, grooming rituals like applying makeup not only act as temporary boosts to confidence, but the confidence they inspire in the wearer is itself attractive. It won’t do anything for women who feel forced to apply makeup though, Etcoff goes on to say. “Research suggests that women can feel objectified by makeup, and for such women, any potential advantage may be offset by the emotional labor of wearing it,” she says. Which is to say, makeup – and physical beauty in general – is what you make it. It’s only skin deep, to be sure, but the transformative power of appearance is undeniable. And that’s what we’re celebrating in this issue: beauty not as a superficial facade, but as a potentially powerful and expressive tool that we can pass on to our clients.
ISSN 1710 -1727 – Volume 13, Number 2
Publisher Susan A. Browne firstname.lastname@example.org
Editorial Theresa Rogers Director email@example.com
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Art Katrina Teimo Director firstname.lastname@example.org
Contributors Stacey Camacho Morag Currin Lauren Kurtz Isabelle Villeneuve Elena Zinchenko
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GlamApp Academy Lectures on Ardell Lashes
Image Skincare Launches New Products in Toronto
Ardell Lashes recently partnered with the creators of on-demand beauty app, GlamApp Academy, to develop a live tutorial on its Wispie lashes. GlamApp stylists tuned in to the livestream to listen to celebrity makeup artist and hair stylist Joey Maalouf discuss how to use Ardell Indiviual lashes to create a subtle, no-makeup look. GlamApp, created by Maalouf and actress Cara Santana, launched in 2015. With the touch of a button, the beauty app connects clients with top stylists in more than 23 cities in the U.S., allowing them to order hair, makeup and nail services directly to their home, office or hotel. All the stylists who attended the Ardell Lashes live tutorial received gift bags containing Maalouf’s favorite Ardell Lash styles and DUO adhesive.
As part of its global new products launch, Image Skincare hosted a party in Toronto in April. Founder and CEO Janna Ronert was at the Four Seasons Hotel to announce the launch of several new anti-aging products. Ronert spoke about how her struggle with rosacea prompted her to develop skincare products to treat the condition. She also spoke about Image Skincare’s non-profit Care for Skin Foundation – on which she works with her husband and its founder – Dr. Marc Ronert. The foundation provides surgery and skin replacement to the underprivileged around the world. Similar events took place throughout March and April in major cities around the world where estheticians, physicians and skincare professionals were invited to try out new products and place orders. “This year will be the biggest launch in company history,” Ronert said before the launch. “We are launching 33 new SKUs and an entirely new category [called IBeauty].”
B.C. Launches Canada’s First Wellness Rewards Program A mobile app launched in British Columbia rewards residents for leading healthy lifestyles. Users across the province who sign up for Carrot Rewards will be able to earn their choice of leading, brand name loyalty points for completing activities centred on making healthier lifestyle choices. This can include anything from completing a health profile, to participating in learning activities and quizzes, and in later phases will include activities like going to the gym, visiting a flu clinic, or buying produce from the grocery store. The app is also designed to link up with wearable devices in later stages to track and reward healthy behaviour. Carrot Rewards users will receive points such as Aeroplan, PetroPoints, Scene and MoreRewards for their efforts. “By promoting physical fitness and providing tips and information on how to make healthier choices, we’re helping British Columbians to make their health a priority,” says Terry Lake, B.C.’s Minister of Health. “We soon hope to see the rest of Canada following in our footsteps.” The app is one of many partnerships made under the federal government’s Multi-Sectoral Partnerships to Promote Healthy Living and Prevent Chronic Disease program, which invests $20 million per year in innovative projects and partnerships that focus on addressing common risk factors, such as unhealthy eating, physical inactivity, and smoking, to prevent chronic disease. www. s pa inc .c a
Eminence Plants 5 Million Trees Since 2012, Eminence Organic Skin Care has been partnering with global tree planting organization Trees for the Future to create its own program – Forests for the Future – in which the brand plants a tree for every retail product sold. As of March 31, 2016, five million trees have been planted as part of the initiative. In four years, Eminence has planted trees in 19 developing countries around the world including Burundi, Uganda, Ghana and Tanzania. The Forests for the Future initiative enables Eminence’s tree planting partners’ field teams to empower farmers to restore the land and provide food and a sustainable future for the region's inhabitants. “We’re dedicated to helping create a sustainable planet through our partnership with Trees for the Future, offering farmers in communities around the world an opportunity to maintain their own sustainable business and feed their families,” says Boldijarre Koronczay, President of Eminence Organic Skin Care. “Reaching this incredible milestone of five million trees planted only strengthens our mission for a positive impact
Salon Video Network Goes Mobile
around the world, the environment and the fight against deforestation.” A single tree produces approximately 260 pounds of oxygen per year, while also providing a habitat for biodiversity and helping to combat climate change. To celebrate this achievement and bring awareness to why planting trees is such an important cause, Eminence has produced a two-minute animated video (eminenceorganics.com/5milliontrees). For every share of the video on social media, Eminence will plant a tree (up to 100,000).
Gloss Media, a Nielsen-rated salon video network in the U.S., has partnered with inMarket, a major beacon and proximity platform, to bring its content to salon clients’ mobile phones. This exclusive agreement will bring the microlocation engagement power of beacons to salons across the U.S. and enable brands to engage women precisely when they’re in the salon and receptive to messaging. Salons facilitate heavy mobile usage by patrons – 90% of whom are female, and 65% of whom are moms – who visit for an average of 60 minutes. This hour of downtime facilitates heavy mobile usage, creating a tremendous opportunity for brands to reach a highly coveted audience while they’re in “errand mode.” U.S. nail salons receive more than 1.9 billion customer visits per year. Through the new partnership, Gloss Media will gain access to inMarket’s 44.5 million monthly active users (per comScore, January 2016) across major apps. 8 Sp a Inc. | Summe r 2 016
Erratums In our Spring 2016 issue, we reported that The Nordik Group was partnering with other businesses to develop LeBreton Flats in Ottawa. It would be more accurate to say that The Nordik Group, along with other key partners, has partnered with the Devcore, Canderel DLS Group, who put forward the LeBreton Re-Imagined project proposal. In the “Spa Software” article that featured in our Winter 2015-16 issue, we mistakenly quoted Andrea Fisher, Spa Manager of Ancient Cedars Spa, as saying that Ancient Cedars’ spa software “allows guests to book their own appointments online, display all the details of a guest’s booking for the spa therapists when they arrive, and allows the spa to follow up with the guest after a visit.” The quote was about spa software in general, not about Ancient Cedars Spa’s software.
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Millcroft: A spa getaway outside the city
B y K e l ly T o w n s e n d
othing wreaks havoc on your skin quite like living in the city. From the stresses of the everyday hustle and bustle in the streets to the airborne pollution effects, Toronto residents pay a tall price to live near the bright lights of the “6ix.” It’s for that reason that Millcroft Spa, Centre for Well Being, located in Caledon, ON, is a luxurious getaway for clients looking for a quick escape. “One of the main reasons people come to the spa is to destress and unwind,” says Heather MacKay, Spa Operations Manager at Millcroft Spa, one of several spas owned by Ontario’s Vintage Hotels. “As soon as you drive onto our property, we have over 100 acres of beautiful property set up in the countryside that’s not far away from the city.” A little more than an hour out of the city, the majority of the clients visiting the spa come for the day. According to MacKay, 65 to 70 per cent of visitors are day guests, while the remaining 30 to 35 per cent stay overnight, many of whom tend to be couples. “As a hotel spa we’re very service-oriented, so we have very specific criteria for the way guests are handled from the very beginning of the experience,” says MacKay. “You’re not just going for a facial. We have protocols, starting from an opening ritual, down to the treatments... to the finishing therapist educating the client on the next steps.” Guests who spend $100 or more have access to all spa amenities, including the recently introduced hot springs, the spa’s outdoor contrast hydrotherapy project, which finished construction in December 2015. The hot springs contain two hot baths, a cold plunge pool, an outdoor temperate pool and new pool decks, all open year-round. There is still plenty of
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spa light relaxation for guests to enjoy inside as well. “We have a woodland lounge with a big stone fireplace that overlooks the upper deck of the hot springs,” says MacKay. The spa also includes a dining option in the cafe with a menu that changes every three months based on seasonal trends to maintain variety for guests. The menu includes a selection of shared plates, salads, wraps, and daily soups. “We try to source as many local ingredients as possible, all very high-quality,” says MacKay. Spa treatments: a labour of love Millcroft Spa treatments are created with the desire to reflect the latest in “ever-changing trends” in the spa industry. MacKay, who started out as an esthetician and worked her way up to spa and hotel management, has 20 years of experience in the spa industry. “I have a real passion for the industry. I create a lot of the treatments that we implement and provide at Vintage Hotels,” she says. “My passion for skincare and wellness fuels that desire to come up with unique treatment ideas that are very experience-oriented.” Some of the spa’s current signature treatments include the Head to Toe Reviver, a full-body exfoliation using Pink Himalayan Detoxifying Salt Scrub – which MacKay identifies as one of the top spa trends for 2016 – blended with Moringa Oil, followed by a scalp and body massage. Millcroft Spa also incorporates the contrast hydrotherapy trend into a number of treatments. The Swiss Shower Treatment Kurs combines Swiss shower jet sprays with high-velocity sprays of alternating temperatures with a Blitz Gus hose. Some of the spa’s The Fire and Ice Deluxe current signature Manicure and Pedicure includes a cooling marine treatments include the foot and leg exfoliation Head to Toe Reviver, a and a warming Eco Fin full-body exfoliation Herbal melt, designed to improve circulation, using Pink Himalayan simulate the senses and Detoxifying Salt Scrub ease tension. blended with Moringa “I want to use the latest trends; I want to Oil, followed by a scalp try them out, to see how and body massage. they work and I want to know why and how they work,” says MacKay. “[Guests] can count on us to be the experts that go out and find out what’s good and what really works and have that available to them so they don’t have to think about it.” The changing views of beauty Millcroft’s main skincare and cosmetic products come from BABOR, which uses 2009 Nobel Prize-winning research to reinvent the way guests look at skincare and anti-aging methods,
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spa light Millcroft Spa treatments are created with the desire to reflect the latest in “ever-changing trends” in the spa industry.
and perfectly aligns with MacKay’s vision of providing the best and latest in spa trends. The latest spa treatment using BABOR products is the Reversive Facial, which MacKay says is unique in the industry. It’s an anti-aging treatment that appeals directly to clients in their 30s and 40s and acts as a preventive measure to the aging process. “At that age range, those little tails at the end of our DNA strand [called telomeres] snap, so this technology helps to prevent the shortening of those telomeres so that it slows down the aging process,” says MacKay. “It’s key that it’s treated in that age range.” MacKay notes how opinions and approaches to skincare and preventive measures have changed in the last decade.
The ease of access to skincare treatments has significantly reduced the number of facelifts performed on average, she says. She has also observed that an increasing number of men are concerned with skincare. “We have men [at the spa] every single day,” she says. “I would say that 30 per cent of the population at the spa is men.” While women are still the majority of their clients, MacKay says only five years ago the ratio was approximately 10 per cent men to 90 per cent women. This shift in perspectives on skin treatment and health is a positive sign of where the industry is headed, and Millcroft Spa is prepared to follow the trends for the sake of keeping clients informed and healthy. “There are so many resources at our
fingertips, non-invasive things we can do that do make a difference, that enhance beauty,” says MacKay.
Millcroft Spa Facts Size: 8,000 square-feet; outdoors additional 4,000 square-feet Number of spa accommodations: 52 Number of treatment rooms: 21 Number of staff: 40 Retail: BABOR, Aveda, Luzern, Comfort Zone, Spa Ritual, Laliscious
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By Isabelle Villeneuve
14 Spa Inc. | Sum m e r 2 016
very April, Europe hosts in-cosmetics Global, the largest cosmetology conference in the world. During this event, participants can discover new ingredients and new ideas, and hear about the different projects researchers are working on worldwide. Two areas of study that are currently the focus of particular attention are anti-pollution treatments and the microbiome. ANTI-POLLUTION TREATMENTS Dr. Jean Krutman of the Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental Medicine in Germany, led a study which looked at 806 female Caucasians in Germany and 743 Asian subjects in the Taizhou region. The study found: • Pollutant particles can influence aging, specifically the occurrence of pigmentation spots. • An increase in soot and pollutant particles resulting from vehicular traffic has been linked with a 20 per cent increase in pigmentation spots on the forehead and cheeks. However, there was no apparent impact on the backs of hands or forearms. This study strongly suggests that there is a need for the development of skincare products containing anti-pollution ingredients that have been clinically proven to be effective. It is also an excellent reminder of the importance of cleansing the skin twice daily with products that are specifically designed to remove pollutants.
THE MICROBIOME: A new direction of study for healthy, youthful looking skin Did you know that only 10 per cent of our body’s cells are human cells? Indeed, the human microbiota is composed of 1014 cells, that is to say, 10 times more than the total number of cells that make up the human body (about 1013). The human microbiota is composed of all the bacteria, fungi, viruses, mites, etc. that colonize our bodies. This includes intestinal flora – also known as intestinal microbiota – as well as skin flora or skin microbiota. This generally beneficial inborn flora can represent anywhere from 100 to 10,000,000 microorganisms per cm² of the skin, depending on the area studied, and can weigh about 200 grams. The microbiota consists of a resident population of microorganisms – known as commensal flora – as well as a transient population. The microorganisms constituting the resident flora are firmly established. They have a harmonious, symbiotic relationship their host, helping the skin fight the proliferation of pathogens that attempt to colonize it. Meanwhile, transient flora is composed of germs that can temporarily contaminate the skin or can settle more permanently
in areas offering favourable conditions (elevated humidity, fluctuating pH levels, or breaks in the skin barrier). This can lead to a number of skin conditions, including atopic dermatitis, eczema, acne, seborrheic dermatitis, or simply skin hypersensitivity or excessive dryness. Skin microbiota is in continuous communication with our epidermal cells, producing metabolites and stimulating cellular interactions. In recognition of its true nature as an interactive layer of the skin, on equal footing with the other layers of the epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis, the microbiota was very recently attributed a new name – the Stratum microbium. The term “skin microbiome” refers to the entirety of these microorganisms, their genome and their interactions with their environment. The human microbiota can express 100 times more genes than the human genome itself. A number of studies are currently being conducted to better understand the role played by the different microbiota with whom we cohabitate. Intestinal microbiota is the type we currently understand best but thanks to recent advances in microbiology and immunology, skin microbiota is gaining the attention of more and more researchers. Although its role is only partially understood today, we are becoming more aware of the many positive effects it can have on our health, both by helping develop our immune system and by acting as a barrier against pathogens. There are still many questions to be asked and the list is growing as new discoveries are made: How do these microbes interact not only among themselves but, more importantly, with the human body? How does our environment affect our skin flora? What is the relationship between skin flora and various skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis, eczema, rosacea, and acne? In the cosmetology industry, the first applications related to these discoveries emerged around 15 years ago with the arrival on the market of prebiotics. Prebiotics help restore and maintain the balance of skin flora by promoting the development of beneficial bacteria and suppressing the development of pathogenic bacteria – a little like fertilizer that helps to clone the good bacteria while expelling harmful bacteria. We are only at the dawn of discoveries related to the microbiome. However, thanks to the rapid evolution of knowledge on the subject, we can already envision new therapeutic tools that will revolutionize our understanding of skincare, from hydration to anti-aging.
Isabelle Villeneuve is R&D Director – Head of the Valeant International Center of Excellence in Skincare. Passionate about cosmetology, she has more than 25 years of experience. Villeneuve is recognized as an international expert in skincare.
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recognition everyone needs
nominations for the
2016 SpA And wellneSS AwArdS
are opening late August 2016
Join us in nominating
outstanding Canadian spas.
Top 25 Spas in Canada Maintains a consistently high standard of luxury, service and quality.
Top Destination Spa Offers a wellness vacation experience.
Top New Spa A new spa that has opened within the last twelve months.
Top Day Spa A stand-alone spa facility that does not offer residential overnight accommodation.
Top Medi Spa Offers a medical program, which uses medical treatments such as lasers, microdermabrasion, injectables and other medical beauty procedures.
Top Sanitas Offers wellness through water (Sanitas per Aquam) Eg. Nordic, thermal, mineral springs.
Consumer Choice Consumerâ€™s favourite spa providing health and wellness.
Recognizing Canadian Industry Contributors: SIAC Chairâ€™s Corporate or individual contribution toward the growth, betterment, and recognition of the Canadian spa industry.
Education Outstanding contribution to the education of the spa profession in Canada.
Top Spa Partner Company or individual providing service &/or product support to the Canadian spa industry.
For more event information, please visit:
spa elements part 1
Guaranteed B y E l e na Z i n c h e n ko
s spa treatments continue to gain popularity across the country, concerns around hygiene and safety have come into the spotlight. Currently, there is no federal regulatory body for the Canadian spa industry. Many provinces require little, if any licensing criteria for spa practitioners – especially for hair, skin, and nail services – and most schools and training programs don’t have standard educational curriculum or requirements for graduation. The Spa Industry Association of Canada’s (SIAC) Quality Assurance Program is the only national program of its kind in Canada. It recognizes spas that pass its extensive inspection process as being Quality Assurance Approved (QAA). The evaluation is based on safety, hygiene and best business practices. The QAA evaluation is conducted by independent third-party assessors specially trained for the spa industry. Spas who achieve QAA status are designated Leading Spas of Canada members, a distinction that carries a two-year term, after which they must re-qualify. To ensure the highest professional performance levels, association members are subject to random inspections throughout their terms. Leading Spas of Canada members are obliged to make a formal pledge to uphold and operate their businesses according to the Spa Industry Association of Canada’s Code of Ethics. This Code of Ethics protects the spa, its employees, the association, and most importantly the consumer. By completing the Spa Industry Association of Canada’s rigorous Quality Assurance Assessment, association members from across the country benefit in the following ways: 1. They are given a clear set of criteria to ensure the highest standard of safety, hygiene and business practices. 2. They are granted the right to display the QAA logo, providing the public with the assurance that designated spas meet the highest professional industry standards. 3. The QAA seal of approval attracts better-trained and more highly qualified staff. 4. They attain the distinguished Leading Spa of Canada designation. 5. The assessment includes special best practices guidelines for spas in the medical esthetics sector.
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The original idea in developing the Quality Assurance Program was not to police Canadian spas, but rather to educate the consumer and provide clear guidelines for standards of practice across the industry. With the increasing popularity of medical esthetics, additional guidelines have been identified to provide Medical Esthetics Standards & Practices. We welcome all spa categories from large resort facilities to small, one or two-operator spas. Regardless of the size or number of employees, everyone benefits from having clear criteria and guidelines of quality standards. Since the Quality Assurance Program’s inception in 2010, an increasing number of spas have applied for membership. As a national association, SIAC is thrilled to have more than 25 spas attain this distinction in 2014 and we are in the process of qualifying more spas across the country for 2016! SIAC’s Quality Assurance program is a rigorous process that requires a deep commitment from participating spas, but at the end of the day, it's worth it. Consumers deserve to have the assurance that they are in safe hands, allowing them to relax and enjoy a wonderful spa journey.
Elena Zinchenko is the Director of Ten Spa in Winnipeg and Vice Chair of SIAC’s Board of Directors. Zinchenko first became interested in the health and wellness industry while studying hydrogeological science in Kiev, Ukraine. She later went on to earn diplomas in cosmetology and esthetics.
beauty trends fall spa
B y L a u r e n K u r tz
any seasonal trends that trickle down from fashion’s runways to the beauty counter are simply impractical for the everyday woman. Here are four goof-proof beauty trends to fall back on and how to wear them in order to embrace the playful drama of the season. 1. The romantic lip: A deep, brooding, full-pigmented pout is the quickest way to draw the line from easy summer beauty into a cool and structured fall look. A semi-matte black lipstick (not too flat, not too shiny), can be both gothic and fun, but most will feel more comfortable in rich wine tones. For the colour-shy, a deep-hued, but sheer coverage gloss is a great option. 2. The perfect brow: The full brow is still the most youthful and balancing feature on the face and this season is no exception. Whether structured or wispy, a brow can change a face in an instant. This is why microblading – a form of tattooing where a blade is used to make hair stroke-like incisions in the brow with pigment – is having a resurgence in the permanent makeup world. It’s becoming a sought-after “new” spa treatment! But beware, this is serious business where sterilization meets artistry, so the artist should ensure that they have familiarized themselves with how to handle blood-borne pathogens, wears gloves and a mask, and uses either disposable tools or properly sterilizes them, for their own safety and that of the client. For a quicker fix, there are fine, waterproof brow pens that simulate the real thing when applied in short upward strokes. 3. Black eyeliner: A heavy black eyeliner (think crisp, not smoky) all the way around the eye, or a sleek, winged cat shape will glam up a face in an instant. If applying a cream or liquid eyeliner with a brush is too difficult, consider a smooth black pencil and run it through the upper eyelashes in short dashes for instant lash-thickening and definition. Eye shadows are an option this season; to make the eyes the focus, go for some gold or rose-gold hued shimmer on the lids. A fine shimmer (not sparkle) is still fine for mature lids, no matter what you've heard! 4. Healthy skin: It doesn’t matter how on-trend lips or brows are, if the skin is unhappy, people can tell. Here is a skincare regimen you can recommend to your client that will hopefully become a ritual for them (the number of steps will vary depending on their needs and habits): A well-blended and hydrating foundation to even out skin tone is a good place to start, then a concealer or heavier coverage foundation hides any blemishes or dark spots. Using a clean finger to pat-pat-pat concealer into the skin is better than dragging it with a brush (the warmth of the skin and the patting motion will make the product blend seamlessly). Finally, brighten under the eyes by adding a pinky-toned or caramel-toned brightening stick to the inner and outer corners, for a look that says daylight savings just started, everyday!
Lauren Kurtz is the owner of a private studio, Good Gosh Beauty, which focuses on niche and longlasting beauty treatments. A member of the Permanent Cosmetics Professionals, Kurtz is known for her skilled, delicate touch and ability to make people look their best.
FALL BEAUTY SPECIAL
5 1. emerginC Scientific Organics Facial Cleansing Wipes www.emerginc.com 2. SST Cosmetics Smokey Beige Hydrating Lipstick www.sstsignatureseries.com 3. Tina Davies Professional Harmony Microblade www.tinadavies.com 4. Mirabella Baked Sand Bronzer www.mirabellabeauty.com 5. Repêchage Fusion Express Bar and Spa Masks www.repechage.com
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FALL BEAUTY SPECIAL
Highlight cheekbones by adding blush. Blush is often applied just above the cheekbone, or just below. The trick is knowing exactly where to place blush; ask the client to smile so the cheekbones are easier to see.
DIY Beauty Routine for Spa Clients B y Sta c e y C a m a c h o
Editor’s note: When spa clients come in for a beauty treatment, they may look to you as the spa therapist for a sustainable beauty routine that they can take with them when they leave. Makeup artist Stacey Camacho gives us some helpful tips about where to start.
akeup is designed to enhance naturally beautiful features, not to camouflage them. When applying makeup, always remember to remove any and all excess product onto a paper towel or the back of the hand. This prevents makeup from looking caked on. In addition, apply makeup in a downward motion to prevent the product from entering the pores. Another option is to apply the product from side-to-side, just so long as it is in a downward motion. Don’t use fingers to apply makeup. The oils in the hand differ from the oils on the face. Mixing these two, plus the oils in makeup products, will cause makeup to separate.
In keeping with clean and crisp eye makeup, eye liner should also be clean and crisp. Tight-liner, which is applying liner very close to the upper lash line so you cannot see it, adds to this crisp look. Eye liner also helps to create the illusion of full lashes. When evening falls, don’t be afraid to go all-out with the eye liner. Cat eyes, anyone?
Stacey Camacho is a professional makeup artist with more than eight years of experience. She maintains a beauty blog at www.staceycamacho.net 20 Spa Inc. | Summ e r 2 016
Begin by prepping the skin with a moisturizer. To speed up the time it takes to apply makeup, opt for a two-in-one formula that moisturizes the skin and preps the makeup application at the same time. This way there is no need to wait a few minutes to allow the moisturizer to set in.
FALL BEAUTY SPECIAL
Primer is designed to prolong the makeup application. In addition, it acts as a barrier so that makeup doesnâ€™t come in direct contact with the skin. If your client is not a fan of silicone, as most primers are still silicone-based, you may want to suggest a primer that is water-based, oil-based (infused with essential oils), or lotion-based. Apply primer with a foundation brush.
For daytime, use something in the nude family, or a hue that matches the natural lip colour. Daytime lighting is harsh. Another good tip is to apply lip liner after applying lipstick, rather than before. Save bright colours for the evening.
Keep the eyes neutral, clean and crisp for day. Create a soft, smoky eye using a neutral palette or light eye shadow colours. Why not create some eye looks, such as a cut crease eye or a colour wash of the neutrals or light colours, such as pastels? Play up the eyes in the evening before heading out.
Foundation & Concealer
Foundation is designed to even out the complexion. Two-in-one foundations have built in concealer to cover up imperfections such as redness, dark circles and brown spots.
Powder sets makeup. If your client does not like powder, you can suggest applying a loose powder with a fluffy brush so that itâ€™s less concentrated. Many women are afraid of powder, thinking it will give them a powdery finish or a caked-on look. Not true, as long as the excess product is removed. Without powder, a blush application will fade away instantly and eye shadow will blend with face makeup.
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FALL BEAUTY SPECIAL
lients encounter a difficult and emotional time once they are diagnosed with cancer, and it can be a challenge for them to remain positive in the face of it. As a skincare professional, you can make a difference through makeup lessons and applications that will enhance their skin and eye colour while being cognizant of any sensitivities.
Oncology Esthetics By Morag Currin
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Cancer and skin Cancer treatment can wreak havoc with the skin, the body’s largest organ. Challenges with the skin can be addressed by estheticians certified in Oncology Esthetics. The cancer treatment that causes the most damage is chemotherapy and it affects the body systemically. During chemotherapy, a patient’s blood counts can be affected, which can impact the skin. When the red blood cell count is low, the patient can become anemic and develop a pale complexion or pallor. People with this pale complexion may also consider sunless tanning (bronzing treatment) at a spa. If the client’s platelet count is low, they could be more prone to bruising and bleeding under the skin. It is very important that the client avoids any minor cuts and injuries to the skin. Signs and symptoms of bleeding include red spots under the skin (petechiae); bleeding gums, easy bruising, and headaches. Some chemotherapy drugs may cause the skin and veins to become discoloured or darker in colour (called hyperpigmentation). Skin colour changes may be limited to a specific area or more widespread. Colour changes seem to occur more often in dark-skinned people and in areas where the skin is exposed to the sun. For redness and/or flushing on the skin, the use of a highly pigmented, opaque concealer that is yellow-based and just a bit paler than the skin can camouflage the redness. Airbrush makeup is lightweight makeup applied through an air gun machine that produces a thin, even layer of makeup and creates a very matte finish. Airbrushing allows you to do the client’s makeup without having to use unsanitary brushes and sponges, a huge benefit for a client who may be prone to infection. Many matte formulas are great solutions for camouflaging pale skin, bruising, scars, under eye circles, hyper pigmentation and flushing. Mineral makeup is comprised of several minerals that have been subjected to various oxidizing processes to create different shades, and then crushed together to form fine powders that can be applied to the face and used as makeup. Skin that is compromised will greatly benefit from the use of mineral makeup because its minimal ingredients assure that no unnecessary chemicals are being added to already sensitive skin, creating a minimal reaction to any treatments the client may be undergoing.
FALL BEAUTY SPECIAL
Many matte formulas are great solutions for camouflaging
• Grey-green eyes will benefit from Colour and eyes pale skin, bruising, scars, under colours from the violet-red Eye shadow in the right colour(s) can eye circles, hyper pigmentation family, such as orchid, lilac or make the natural eye colour pop, so plum. start by assessing your client’s actual and flushing. • Brown or hazel-gray eyes will eye colour. Focus on their iris and benefit from shades of purples, note the dominant colour. Next, using plums or steel blues. a colour wheel, determine the complementary colour* for the • True grey benefits from steely gray, silver, charcoal or a silvery colour of the eye and select an eye shadow accordingly. pearl. Blue eyes are cool-toned, and the complementary colour is Green eyes look great with red-violet eye shadow. Green eyes orange. Straight orange is fine for the adventurous client, but are naturally bright, so you don’t have to rely on vivid shadows and most will opt for warmer shades, such as coral, peach, champagne liners to attract attention. Lilac is the perfect pop for a night out, or a warm brown. Light, warm or neutral warm tones best and a red-brown, like wine or burgundy, is just enough colour complement cool blue eyes. during the day. Grey eyes are considered neutral, however: Hazel eyes that are blends of brown, yellow, and green will • Grey-blue eyes will benefit from subtle peaches, rich bronzes benefit from purple if gold flecks are dominant, otherwise choose and coppery shades since orange is the complementary shade plums. If the flecks are mostly green, opt for burgundy. If the for blue. flecks are more brownish with little green or yellow, choose a metallic shade like gold, silver and pewter to make the brown in the eyes sparkle. Brown eyes go well with any colour other than the exact same shade of the eye. Salmon and gold are particularly complementary hues. The key with brown eyes is having enough colour intensity, which is why brown eyes look good with rich pigment and smoky hues. Darker brown eyes look larger when applying violet or silver eye shadows, as they provide contrast to the warmth of the brown. Colour and mood How your client looks will affect how they feel about themselves, which can dramatically affect how they feel physically. This is more than a logical argument; it is a proven fact. The significance of the relationship between self-esteem and physical well-being is important to those who are being treated for or recovering from cancer. Attitude plays a vital role in recovery. Clients who take control of their appearance can reap rewards that are more than skin deep. *Complementary colour means the opposite colour on a colour wheel. To learn more about how it works, see our blog at www.spainc.ca/spa-blog/the-colour-wheel/
Morag Currin is the company owner and educational professional of Oncology Training International (OTI) whose innovative concepts were designed to provide more advanced comforting modalities of esthetic treatments and care for patients undergoing cancer treatments.
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C-Vit Eye Contour Patches Sesderma C-Vit Eye Contour Patches contain vitamin C to protect and strengthen the resistance of skin. The patches are made with Mimetic peptide that improves the structure and integrity of the skin with visible effects on skin tonicity and firmness. They regenerate the dermal matrix by stimulating collagen, elastin, fibronectin and glycosaminoglycan synthesis. The skin is redensified, enhancing firmness, smoothness and reducing spots. Apply them to dark circles and crow’s feet for 10 to 15 minutes and then apply Glicare Eye Gel C-Vit or Eye Cream. www.sesdermausa.com
BeautyPrep Face Cleanser, Toner and Moisturizer
Jane Iredale has three new skincare products ideal for daily use to prepare and protect skin so makeup goes on smoother and lasts longer. The face cleanser is a no-rinse cleansing water containing oat amino acids and cucumber extracts in liposome form for gentle hydration. The moisturizer contains four organic rose stem cell extracts and is naturally scented with organic lemon grass extract, while the toner contains a fruit extract-infused water that combines organic lemon grass, apple, pear, carrot and coconut water. www.janeiredale.com
Iluma Intense Brightening Exfoliating Powder After a summer of sunshine and exposure to the elements, clients will need the restorative powers of Iluma by Image Skincare. The Iluma Intense Brightening Exfoliating Powder is a polishing powder that gently cleanses and exfoliates all skin types. This ultrasoft microexfoliating blend removes debris and oil from pores while providing long-term hydration and anti-aging benefits. The powder contains a new generation of natural botanicals, enzymes and antioxidants to help skin reach another level of radiance. www.epbeauty.ca/iluma
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ALLPRESAN PRO FOOTCARE
Cracked Skin Mousse
Allpresan’s professional PRO Footcare product line features patented BarrioExpert Technology that creates a fine, breathable mesh on the skin after application. The BarrioExpert Technology protects skin against external factors and strengthens the skin barrier. The products also contain LIPO2 Skin Repair Technology which uses an imitation of the skin’s own lipids to layer a protective film over damaged skin. For a distributor near you please call 1-877-283-7546. www.allpresanfootcare.com
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Makes Scents Natural Spa Line’s essential oils are certified 100 per cent pure and made with aromatic natural compounds carefully extracted from plant sources such as blossoms, leaves and roots. The natural essences of plants are acquired by steam distillation or cold-expression from a single botanical source. The Pure Essential Oils have undergone no dilution of their active qualities and they contain no fillers, artificial ingredients or chemical solvents. www.makesscentsspaline.com
Pure Essential Oil Blends
Rosehip Triple C+E Firming Oil Eminence’s Rosehip Triple C+E Firming Oil provides a hydrating and protective facial treatment with a combination of beta-carotene, essential fatty acids and vitamins C and E. The product also contains jojoba oil, seabuckthorn oil, rosemary leaf extract and milk thistle. The facial oil fights signs of aging, smoothes wrinkles and protects dry skin from environmental stressors. www.eminenceorganics.com/ca
Lava and Glacial Facial Shells Spa Revolutions, a provider of naturally self-heating skincare, beauty and wellness products for professionals, recently expanded its shell massage treatments to include facials. Combining the therapeutic warmth of lava shells and the cooling sensation of glacial shells, the shells not only stimulate circulation and eliminate toxins, but firm and tone facial skin. The Lava Shells are ideal for relaxing tense jaw muscles, brow bones and temples, while the Glacial Shells are perfect for use underneath the eyes to reduce puffiness. www.sparevolutions.com
The unique feature of Gharieni’s new MLW Space spa table is hinted at in its name. The large storage space integrated into the base of the table can accommodate two hot-cabis, towels, blankets and much more. The table itself has two lifting columns meaning both the height and angle of inclination (up to the Trendelenburg position) are adjustable. There are eight programmable treatment positions and the electrical adjustable back and footrest guarantee a comfortable position for the client and easy handling for the therapist. www.gharieni.com
Pink Petal Roses Solar Salt Mineral Bath Farmaesthetics’ hand-made Pink Petal Roses Solar Salt Mineral Bath is a detoxifying treatment that bathes the senses and the body in fragrant roses and the healing minerals of hand-harvested sea salts. Farmaesthetics products are 100% natural, contain certified organic ingredients as indicated and are hypo-allergenic, non-irritating and dermatologically tested, with a certified shelf-life of two years from the date of opening. No animal testing is conducted. www.farmaesthetics.com www. s p a inc .c a
marketplace Summer Citrus Blast Trio: 3 steps to freshen up your skin for summer! 1. Pure Intense Cleanser uses citrus extracts to gently and deeply remove oils for a glowing complexion. 2. T one with PureEssence Sensitive Mist which soothes and regenerates with powerful antioxidants. Perfect on a hot day! 3. A pply PureCitrus Day Cream to refresh, clarify and renew with just a hint of lemon.
Universal Contour Wrap Firm It Up Trio: Start things off with our Marine Body Wash—a stimulating shower gel packed with seaweed and powerful detoxifying qualities. Next, treat yourself to our soft and nourishing Marine Body Scrub—the combination of sunflower and seaweed helps reduce moisture loss and reconditions, protects, and soothes the skin. Last, but definitely not least, finish things up with our Marine Body Lotion—it’s packed with active ingredients and stimulates the formation of collagen. As a bonus, all these products smell amazing so you will too!
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illian Brown describes herself as a holistic health coach. The Canadian yoga instructor, Reiki practitioner, and wellness blogger has a degree in Applied Human Nutrition and a passion for passing her healthy lifestyle on to others. Brown has combined her skills to offer her clients an all-encompassing approach to health transformation through one-on-one coaching, online courses, workshops, and travel retreats. What does holistic health mean to you and how do you incorporate it into your practice? [Holistic health] is a wholeness. It’s looking at the health of our body, mind and spirit, rather than just compartmentalizing it into, say, a physical symptom. I have a background in nutrition and yoga, and I worked with people one-on-one and in group classes for years, but I realized that’s just one of the tools in my toolbox. I see [holistic health] as a gateway to the world within, to raise our awareness about the foods that we eat and how we’re moving our bodies, and just getting connected with our bodies in a way that so many North Americans are not. How did you arrive at the lifestyle you now follow and have chosen to share with others? It’s been a very gradual evolution. It’s kind of hard to put words to, but each step was very guided by the universe. I was in some really toxic situations and environments, and I was just kind of guided out of them and shown that there is a different way, a better way to live. I slowly transcended one bad habit at a time and it’s been a slow, steady growth. Transformation like that is not something that happens overnight and if it does, it’s not sustainable. What role does yoga play in your life and what impact can it have on others? The physical package of yoga is what gets most people and that’s what got me. I was looking for a different type of workout because I was wanting to be skinnier or more fit. It wasn’t because I wanted to become who I am today. Yoga, as mainstream as it is, is such an amazing thing, even though it has been diluted and maybe it’s not the same yoga that was practiced a thousand years ago, it still offers people that opportunity to look within themselves and see where they’re out of alignment.
One of the things you teach is self-love. How do you love yourself? What do you do to treat yourself? I don’t see it as a treat, I see it as a necessity. I think that taking care of myself is the best thing I can do for other people. As a teacher, I lead by example. I teach what I experience, I teach what I know, I teach what I see in my clients. An indulgence for me is a night where I just totally get off the computer and maybe unwind with a bath, with some essential oils. I can do self-massage, dry brush, and then read before bed, and it’s just so nourishing. What is your favourite spa treatment of all time? One of my favourite treatments ever was at Pure and Simple in Toronto. They have a facial – I can’t remember the exact facial – but I added the breast massage and it was just the most luxurious hour-and-a-half of my life. I left there feeling like a million dollars. All the products [Pure and Simple] uses are natural, very much in alignment with everything that I stand for, and the practitioner was very informative. It was just right. www. s pa inc .c a