Spa Inc. Spring 2019

SPRING 2019

CANADA’S SPA CONNECTION

A Journey Wellness TO

BY VALÉRIE GRANDURY

Spa Eastman A Holistic Getaway in Quebec

THE POWER OF PLANTS: www.spainc.ca Publications Mail NO. 40026342

Products and spas tapping into nature’s bounty

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contents

8

spa news

High-end international spas featuring botanical therapies and organic skincare

6

spa light

Spa Eastman is among Canada’s first destination retreats, and still thriving

8

science of the spa

The commoditization of medical cosmetic treatments is a slippery slope, and here’s why, according to Dr. Diane Wong

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fresh & new

More products with a focus on natural ingredients

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18

spa business

A journey to wellness, by Valérie Grandury – founder of Odacité

10

in the know

The power of plants: What you should know about 10 essential ingredients, plus 10 all-natural, all Canadian beauty and skincare companies

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Implanting happiness: Vivienne O’Keeffe explains why the restorative power of vegetation is enjoying new growth

spa star

JoAnn Fowler was an accomplished Hollywood makeup artist before launching Sappho New Paradigm, a luxury line of ethical, non-toxic cosmetics

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Cover Photo: Courtesy of Valérie Grandury

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between us

In Praise of

FLOWER

POWER I

n the depths of winter, as we were planning our spring issue, choosing a theme was easy: For me, this season is all about plants! Plus, most of my favourite skincare products and spa treatments favour natural ingredients.

Many plants have beneficial qualities when taken internally or externally, but even spending time in a garden can transform your mood. “Horticulture therapy” – essentially, using gardening as a therapeutic activity – is credited for reducing pain and lessening stress. This idea dates back thousands of years, but in the early 19th century it was acknowledged by Dr. Benjamin Rush, considered to be the “Father of American Psychiatry,” who noted that “digging in the garden” assisted patients recovering from mania. A recent study in the Netherlands compared the effects of reading versus gardening, and noted that gardening consistently reduced stress the most. In her column on p.18, Vivienne O’Keeffe shares more research about this important connection between plants and physical/mental well-being.

If just being around plants can make us happier and healthier, then imagine the potential of putting them on our skin. The natural world is full of miracles, but when you see what a glob of aloe vera gel can do to help heal a wound or rash, it’s obvious there’s a lot we don’t understand about the hidden qualities of plants. In our feature on p.12, we explain the benefits of 10 ingredients that harness the power of Mother Nature, but there are many more – just check the labels of most high-quality skincare products, and you’ll find them. You’ll also discover some of the best plant-based brands in this issue, but since we couldn’t possibly include them all, we’ll be sharing reviews of some favourites on the Spa Inc. blog.

As we watch the seasons unfold, nature’s yearly “rebirth” each spring reminds us of our capacity to heal, regenerate and, ultimately, thrive. Luckily, we Popi Bowman were born with the wisdom to visit gardens, forests, MANAGING EDITOR and even the ocean, for inspiration.

Correction: In the Winter 2018-19 issue, an incorrect photograph was shown for Hammam Spa (Top Day Spa) in the Canadian Spa & Wellness Awards coverage.

We sincerely regret the error and have corrected the digital edition, which is available online via Issuu.

Check us out online @SpaIncMag

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SPRING 2019

ISSN 1710 -1727 Volume 16, Number 1

Publisher Susan A. Browne sbrowne@dvtail.com

Managing Popi Bowman Editor pbowman@dvtail.com Art Katrina Teimo Director kteimo@dvtail.com

Contributors

Gabrielle Cole Valérie Grandury Jayne Ashley Heaton Jana Manolakos Vivienne O'Keeffe Diane Wong

Advertising Beth Kukkonen Manager bkukkonen@dvtail.com

Advertising Edith Dhillon edith@SpaInc.ca 905.707.3525

Marketing Stephanie Wilson Manager swilson@dvtail.com

VP of Roberta Dick Production robertad@dvtail.com

Production Crystal Himes Manager chimes@dvtail.com

Published four times a year by: Dovetail Communications Inc. President: Susan A. Browne Tel: 905.886.6640 Fax: 905.886.6615 Email: general@dvtail.com SUBSCRIPTIONS AND RETURNS 30 East Beaver Creek Rd, Suite 202 Richmond Hill, Ontario L4B 1J2 PUBLICATIONS MAIL AGREEMENT NO. 40026342 Legal Deposit – National Library of Canada. All rights reserved.

No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the written permission of the publisher. Dovetail Communications Inc. cannot be held responsible for any losses or other damages incurred by readers in reliance on information appearing in Spa Inc. Spa Inc. and Dovetail Communications Inc. do not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising.

Spa Inc. will review unsolicited submissions (hard copy or digital texts, photos or illustrations) for editorial consideration but does not guarantee their publication. The submitted material may be used without consent or payment.

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spa news

In the lap of luxury Imagine a place where unlimited spa treatments and a 24-hour butler are included in the price. It isn’t heaven – it’s the Manumbalik Villa at Shangri-La’s Mactan Resort & Spa in Cebu, Philippines. The one-bedroom villa (at approximately US$2,400/ night for two guests) comes equipped with its own steam room, outdoor tub and vitality pool within the resort’s 10,000-squaremetre “spa village,” which features a 24-hour gym, seven restaurants, landscaped gardens, pools and a white sand beach adjacent to a marine sanctuary. Organic body products are provided, and the villa guests can choose from 35 customized therapies, many of which include locally grown botanical ingredients. Did we say it isn’t heaven? We stand corrected.

Tata Harper reigns supreme as the ‘Queen of Green Skincare’ Montage Hotels & Resorts recently announced that it is featuring Tata Harper facials at three locations (Deer Valley, Utah; Palmetto Bluff, South Carolina; and Los Cabos, Mexico).

Recognized by Condé Nast Traveler as among the best hotels and resorts in the world, Montage is known for its opulent appointments – and now, Tata Harper’s all-organic products can be part of the Spa Montage experience. Named “Queen of the Green Skincare Movement” by Forbes, Tata Harper’s journey into organic skincare began when her stepfather was diagnosed with skin cancer in 2005, and she started investigating some of the common chemicals in her favourite skincare products. Hand-crafted from ingredients grown on her 1,200-acre farm in Vermont, Harper’s product line has won many awards and kudos from celebrities such as Gwyneth Paltrow and Jessica Alba.

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spa light

A PIONEER IN HOLISTIC WELLNESS DESTINATIONS

B Y JAY N E A S H L E Y H E AT O N P H O T O S C O U RT E S Y O F S PA E A S T M A N

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ny spa will turn out rejuvenated clients, glowing from their day of saunas and massages – glowing more, presumably, if they are emerging from a week-long-ormore retreat-style excursion. But Quebec’s Spa Eastman, Canada’s first destination wellness retreat of its kind, aims to send visitors home with the know-how – and an encouraging head start – to take better care of themselves by assessing what lifestyle changes would best improve their well-being. Nutritional counselling, classes, conferences and an enormous menu of spa treatments provide a complete immersion in wellness that will keep that often-short-lived glow alive well beyond a customer’s stay.

The concept of this multi-modal destination spa came to founder Jocelyna Dubuc in her youth, during the early ’60s, when stories of food-based miracle-cures sparked her curiosity about nutrition, and its potential to affect some more common ailments like menstrual troubles and arthritis. While exploring the role of nutrition on her health, she discovered yoga and meditation. “I went to India for meditation, and at the ashram I was at, I had a chance to work with a doctor who was also a naturopath, and it was he that made me discover thermotherapy,” she says – specifically, Kneipp’s methods of hydrotherapy. “I was fascinated by that – those were my roots.”

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spa light Miracle-cures aside, Dubuc dreamed of a place one could visit to experience all-around wellness: “I didn’t want it to be [focused on] cure,” she insists. “It’s an art of living.” At the time, nothing like this existed in Canada. “I had no model,” she explains.

Determined to show people a feeling of fully rounded wellness, Dubuc became a pioneer in Quebec’s wellness industry. Spa Eastman was truly the first of its kind.

Since opening its doors in 1977, Spa Eastman’s original fiveroom, three-employee establishment has expanded into a 43-room wellness mecca, where a staff of more than 120 specialists massage, treat, teach and guide guests of all ages and paths on their journey to better health and well-being.

“Because of all the programs that we have, we’ll have young people come to experience the Nordic spa, and then we’ll have older people who want to get fit or lose weight,” she says. Dubuc is quick to point out that the 326-acre estate is home to 15 kilometres of hiking trails, which guests are encouraged to explore during their visit. The spa also offers a packed daily schedule of classes like “Essentrics” and “The Experience of Essential Oils in Everyday Life,” plus yoga and meditation sessions.

“Then we’ll have people who want to stay for a week to [work with] our kinesiologist and private trainer,” says Dubuc. Guests can schedule a fitness assessment, private training session or work with a personal trainer to develop a longer-term fitness plan to guide them on the path to feeling great.

“But it’s fun, you know – a real vacation!” she adds. The spa is a popular spot for vacationers and honeymooners, and many visitors come for the food. The spa’s claim to fame – and Dubuc’s proudest offering – is the gastronomy. A gluten-free, dairy-free, anti-inflammatory menu developed by Executive Chef/ Naturopath/Nutritherapist Veronica Kaczmarowski, with Chief Nutritherapist/Nutritional Trainer and Chef Jean-Marc Enderlin, is tailored to suit the nutrition plans created for guests.

Spa Eastman’s water features might just come second to its food in drawing visitors from around the globe. Two Kneipp basins, one for arms and one for legs, let guests experience the benefits of alternating hot and cold temperatures to boost circulation, aid in relaxation and encourage restful sleep. An icycold Igloo Shower with peppermint essential oils makes for an anti-inflammatory wake-up call, infrared and hammam saunas help the body detoxify, while the Finnish sauna uses dry heat to stimulate the immune system, aid with breakouts and alleviate arthritis. Water lovers can swim in the outdoor pools or lounge in one of two outdoor spas, each at a different temperature for guests’ comfort. And perhaps most unique of all: the Watsu massage, which takes place in a hot pool for maximum relaxation.

Of course, guests will also find the usuals here, too – a menu of mani-pedis with vegan SpaRitual products, facials, body scrubs and wraps, so they’ll leave looking as good as they feel. A little over an hour east of Montreal, this spa promises to transport its guests to another world – and transform them, in the process.

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spa business A

wellness

JOURNEY TO

B Y VA L É R I E G R A N D U RY

O

dacité was born out of my journey back to health after battling breast cancer, when I made a promise to myself: I would never expose my body to harmful toxins and chemicals, starting with the products I was applying to my skin.

Driven by my personal healing, I wanted to show the world that you don’t need to sacrifice performance for purity. My biggest challenge was to convince people that natural products not only work amazingly well when properly formulated, they also work better and faster than their non-natural counterparts.

When I launched Odacité in 2009, we were pioneers in the “clean beauty” movement. Today, the clean beauty movement is thriving as consumers become aware of toxic ingredients in skincare, and nothing could make me more happy! My dream is that one day clean beauty will be the norm, not the exception.

Longevity, youth and glowing skin – while respecting health – is at the heart of each ingredient we choose. I’m a firm believer that effective skincare is born out of complete purity of the formula: plant knowledge, fused with traditional medicine, vibrational energy, backed by modern science and supported by the most serious clinical and pharmacological studies – this is the future of beauty. Our company is very mission driven, always aiming to educate on the benefits of natural products and the extraordinary efficacy of botanicals.

Born and raised in Paris, now living in Los Angeles, my French roots are still very present. As any French woman, I take skincare very seriously! We love bare skin and use little makeup, so skin truly needs to be vibrant and healthy. French skincare is all about concentration of actives and results, but I wanted that without an ounce of toxins. Not finding it, I decided to create a skincare line to bridge the best of two worlds: French skincare and the “green” California revolution, and so Odacité was born.

FORMULA FOR SUCCESS

There is so much research that goes into each formulation. I don’t think it is enough to be just natural if you want to create a real difference in the way skin feels and looks, so beyond the tight selection of natural ingredients, we also use clinical-grade ingredients like hyaluronic acid, Vitamin C, CoQ10, DMAE, MSM, probiotics, enzymes and AHA (fruit acid), always in a base of fresh, 10 S pa Inc. | Spri n g 2 019

organic all-natural ingredients. Ayurveda and traditional Chinese medicine, as well as vibrational energy, are also very present in our formulas.

A big part of the miracle starts in nature, so my responsibility is to find farmers, growers and pickers that love and respect ingredients as much as I do. We source completely pure, raw botanicals in their pristine unadulterated state, and back it up with science to pick the most potent ones. To do that, we source at least 10 samples of each ingredient, study their nutrients profile in our lab and select the most active. The efficacy of each product starts in this selection process.

Our Moringa oil comes from the footsteps of the Himalayan mountains; it has 46 antioxidants and over 74 percent oleic acid.

Oleic acid is a godsend for dry skin – not only does it replenish moisture without clogging pores, it also helps the moisture from evaporating. No wonder Cleopatra used it to protect her skin from the harsh Egyptian desert environment. Its high antioxidant value makes it a great ally to care for aging skin. You will find Moringa in our Very Dry Skin Serum Concentrate Mo+P.

spa business

Longevity, youth and glowing skin – while respecting health – is at the heart of each ingredient we choose.

Our organic black cumin seed oil is sourced from Israel; at 65 per cent, it has one of the highest linoleic (Omega-6) essential fatty acid content. Research shows that acne-prone skins suffer from abnormally low levels of linoleic fatty acid. Replenishing pimple/acne-prone skin with linoleic acid is a fabulous way to ensure clearlooking skin. Plus, its high content of vitamin E helps prevent the appearance of after-pimple scarring. Black cumin is a primary ingredient in our best-selling Pimple Serum Bl+C. Our Aventurine Lip Serum is supercharged with vitamin C and CoQ10 to address the specific needs of the lip area and its susceptibility to deep vertical lines.

For our newly launched Blue Aura Cleansing Water, we harvested the purifying powers of the three most revered Ayurvedic herbs: neem, holy basil and turmeric.

For our Crystal Contour Gua Sha, we adapted an ancient traditional Chinese technique, by carving a tool specifically for the face. We chose three different crystals, each with different vibrational energy: unconditional love for rose quartz, harmony for blue sodalite and good luck for green aventurine.

Once the formulas are created, they go through months of scientific testing. A safety assessment is done by a PhD in biology to make sure each formula is completely safe. Products are dermatology tested through a clinical study to establish that the formula can be considered as “non sensitizing,” with low risk of allergenic reactions and/or skin irritation.

BUILDING THE BUSINESS

Promoting Odacité is very multifaceted. Personally, I travel a lot to give master classes and train beauty professionals all over the world. We work with the most amazing retail partners, who are our voice on the ground: Detox Market in the U.S. and Canada, SpaceNK and Cult Beauty in England, Bon Marché and Galeries Lafayette in Paris, Harvey Nichols and Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, Nordstrom in Hawaii, Blue Mercury throughout America, and so many more. They are like our extended family. Once a year, I also do a press tour in New York to introduce all our new products. We have been blessed with amazing editorials and press features – I am so grateful to all the journalists that have supported and understood our mission since the beginning.

Social media is the most amazing channel for sharing our mission. We work with many micro- and mid-tier influencers; to make sure it is authentic, we never use paid influencers. We send them products to try, because their feedback is the best way to get tried-and-true reviews. We also promote content on social media when newsworthy. But all in all, if I had to pinpoint the

reason for success, I would say that authenticity and originality are the DNA of success. I love that sentence

by Oscar Wilde: “Be yourself, everybody else is taken.”

Success is about finding your own voice – forget what exists already, never copy. Be a changemaker.

ON DOING IT ALONE

We decided to remain self-funded – I love our freedom!

– and we are a very fast-growing company. This is also a recipe for challenges. Here’s a story that illustrates it well: As a self-funded company, when we launched we had to be mindful of where we put our money. Rent was where I felt we could save money, so I turned part of my house into an office space and garage into our warehouse. When we got to the point of receiving much bigger deliveries, I had completely forgotten a small detail: My house is in a very narrow canyon and sits on top of a hill, which is accessed by an even more narrow and steep street. The driver took his big-rig up the hill and got stuck halfway – he couldn’t go forward or backward without a chance of flipping the truck. The police and fire department tried to help to no avail – that truck was not going anywhere! Finally, the delivering company sent their “best driver” and slowly backed the truck down the street, kindly letting us know we would have to go pick up our boxes at their warehouse in the future. It was time to move.

When you have your own company, you have to face obstacles all the time – some big, some small – but I always see those challenges as a way to improve what we are doing. It’s an opportunity for change, growth, improvement, creativity and reinvention. Challenges are here to make us better, whether as a company or as a person.

Odacité has been featured in many top magazines internationally, including on Vogue’s list of natural beauty products staffers can’t live without. All products are vegan, cruelty free and non-GMO; many are also gluten free.

Photos courtesy of Valérie Grandury www. s pa inc .c a

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in the know

the power of 10 ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS FOR HEALTH AND BEAUTY B Y JA NA M A N O L A KO S

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n the concrete jungle, spotting even the tiniest weed pushing its way through a sidewalk crack has been shown to reduce stress and positively affect mood – a reminder of how deeply connected we are with the natural world. Of course, the ancients already knew this. For much of history, the vital energies of plants have been harnessed to fortify body and mind: natural oils of ancient Egypt that prevented sunburn; pomegranates of classical Greece whose antioxidants staved off premature aging; and gotu kola, a staple herb in traditional Chinese, Indonesian and Ayurvedic medicine that’s said to have many benefits, including the stimulation of collagen.

Picking up where Cleopatra left off, botanicals have enjoyed a recent renaissance, gaining momentum as natural beauty treatments. A comprehensive list would fill this magazine, so we chose 10 essential ingredients that have found their way into many products and treatments – for good reason.

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in the know

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CANNABIS SATIVA/HEMP A flowering plant that originated in eastern Asia, Cannabis sativa recently achieved pop star status in Canada with the legalization of marijuana. The recent hoopla over its use as a drug has eclipsed its long history as a source of fiber, food and medicine – a repertoire that today includes the use of cannabis oils in the cosmetics industry. Among the hundreds of chemical compounds in the plant, two have gained the most notoriety: THC (delta-9tetrahydrocannabinol) for its intoxicating effects and CBD (cannabidiol), which is largely non-psychoactive. Cannabis that contains very low amounts of THC is classified as hemp. You’ll find hemp oil from seeds in protein supplements, hydrating lotions and soaps; and, CBD oil from the flowers and leaves, primarily in medicinal products, such as those treating inflammation.

A natural moisturizer, hemp seed oil is rich in antioxidants and omega-6 and omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids. In fact, it’s the only edible oil that contains greater than 80 percent polyunsaturated essential fatty acids, plus high levels of vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant. With the esthetics industry raving over cannabis oils, it’s no wonder that Ontario’s Ste. Anne’s Spa recently launched its Canna-Massage, a treatment that features hemp CBD-infused Relax Massage Oil. The only “high” that clients can expect from this massage comes from the natural release of endorphins.

CHAMOMILE With its soothing effects, it’s no surprise that over one million cups of chamomile tea are consumed worldwide each day. But there’s more to it.

Chamomile, a.k.a. Matricaria, is one of the most ancient medicinal herbs known to humankind. The principal components of the oil extracted from its delicate, daisy-like flowers offer moderate antioxidant activities and potent skin-soothing action. According to Cara Skin Care – which sells a wide range of chamomile-infused products as part of its “bio-botanical” line – this power-packed ingredient offers antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and healing properties, relieves skin congestion, has softening and antiaging properties, is an antioxidant and antimicrobial, neutralizes free radicals, aids in helping acne, rashes, eczema, and psoriasis, and benefits sensitive skin. Be careful if you are allergic to daisies or ragweed, however; it belongs to the same botanical family.

GRAPESEED OIL Raise a glass to grape seeds. Derived from both green and red grapes, this non-fragrant plant oil has strong antioxidant properties, with a thinner texture and less greasy feel compared to highly saturated oils such as coconut. Its viscosity and nutrient-rich fats have made it a popular base for cosmetic products. A high concentration of essential fatty acids is complemented by an abundance of beta-carotene and vitamins D, C and E, as well as polyphenols known for their anti-inflammatory qualities. It’s great as a moisturizer but also works well as a toner. Studies have shown it can boost collagen in the skin. Grape seed oil is a common ingredient in serums and creams, including many of those by Canadian plant-based skincare favourite, Saje.

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SEAWEED AND ALGAE Pure gifts from the ocean, seaweeds and algae offer more vitamins and minerals than any land-based plant, with an array of unique, skin-loving bioactive compounds. These chlorophyll-containing plants come in all sizes and shapes and present many antioxidant and skin-soothing properties. Some forms of algae, such as Irish moss and carrageenan, contain proteins, vitamin A, sugar, starch, vitamin B1, iron, sodium, phosphorus, magnesium, copper and calcium. Most ocean flora are beneficial for skin, as emollients, soothing agents or antioxidants. New research shows that forms of brown algae hold promise for improving the appearance of aging skin. For a divine marine spa experience, Ancient Cedars Spa at the Wickaninnish Inn in British Columbia features Seaflora Skincare products, which are based on raw, certified organic seaweed (and are a Spa Inc. staff favourite).

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SPINACH You may not like spinach in your teeth, but you’ll love it on your skin.

As a superfood that’s loaded with vitamins and minerals, it is quickly taking centre stage in the beauty market with spinach-infused creams, serums and oils that promise to boost hydration and fend off free radicals, rejuvenating skin and enabling it to recover from sun exposure. Consider that ingesting only 100g (23 calories) of raw spinach provides almost double the daily vitamin A requirement, and provides about half of your daily vitamin C, almost a quarter of magnesium, and substantial amounts of iron, calcium and vitamin K (at 600 percent of the daily value) – it isn’t surprising that spinach is as good on your skin as it is in your stomach. Quebec-based OCCY Laboratory’s Aquafolia developed its Spinach Delight Lip Balm to reduce wrinkles while moisturizing lips. An American company founded in 2015, Espinache (www.espinache.com), produces a full line of vegan, handmade body and skincare products based on organic spinach.

ROSES A symbol of enduring love, this soft-petal flower and its extracts have been used to pamper, rejuvenate and protect for millennia.

Beyond their heady fragrance, two species of rose, Rosa damascena and Rosa centifolia offer compounds that can be applied in the form of skin-soothing, anti-inflammatory and hydrating oils or waterbased astringents and anti-bacterials. Brimming with vitamins, rose helps balance the skin’s pH level. A common ingredient in treating eczema and rosacea, rose is found in such products as Alpha-H’s Liquid Gold Rose and Korres Wild Rose Vitamin C Active Brightening Oil. To seal the deal, there’s also a rose-infused postcleansing spritz, Rose Hydrating Mist by MV Organic Skincare.

in the know

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TURMERIC For thousands of years, the rich gold turmeric root has been recognized for its many medicinal qualities, far beyond that of an exotic culinary spice. It has the ability to reduce inflammation and smooth over and reduce puffiness, making it a favourite for those suffering from psoriasis and acne scarring. Turmeric improves your complexion by soothing irritation and eczema flare-ups, preventing and treating acne while boosting your skin’s glow – although if used topically, it can stain the skin yellow. Its main constituent is curcumin, an antiseptic, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory that neutralizes inflammation-causing enzymes and fights the bacteria that can cause blemishes. Widely used in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for gastric issues, turmeric is also said to purify blood and inhibit hair growth. Kaia Naturals is a Toronto-based “indie eco-beauty brand” that produces a Turmeric Hot Bath soaking salt to aid in detoxification and reduce muscle inflammation, while Hawaii’s Mahalo Skin Care is a botanical-based brand that incorporates turmeric in many of its masks and serums.

MAPLE Oh, Canada! It turns out the spectacular Maple tree in your backyard does more than just look pretty in the fall. Its sap, beyond tasting good on pancakes, has been used to exfoliate, firm and hydrate skin. And last year, researchers found that extracts from red maple leaves offer a potent new topical treatment for skin, erasing fine lines, bolstering elastin and protecting against inflammation. With over 90 percent of Canada’s maple products coming from Quebec, both spas at the Fairmont le Château Montebello and the Manoir Saint-Sauveur have capitalized on this glorious gold rush, offering customized facials and maple sugar body scrubs using B. Kamins Bio-Maple compound.

PLANT STEM CELLS Stem cell technology is the latest wunderkind in the fight against aging, and exuberance is growing over plant stem cells as a skin regenerating powerhouse. Two of our favourite sources include the Argan tree and the Uttwiler Spätlauber apple. Argan tree stem cells (not to be confused with argan oil) stimulate activity at the dermal level, increasing the creation of collagen-producing cells and improving connective tissue fiber support.

The ability of a rare Swiss apple, the “Uttwiler Spätlauber,” to remain fresher longer than other varieties led Mibelle Biochemistry to explore the apple’s stem cells and age-defying qualities. The company launched its PhytoCellTec, a preparation of the apple stem cells, in 2008. Such phyto stem cells have been snapped up by cosmetic companies around the globe, for creams and serums, like those offered by Pevonia and G.M. Collins.

Another skincare company, Stemology, incorporates stem cell extracts into its entire line of products, along with aloe vera, sea kelp and many other botanicals, including cold-pressed, organic essential oils.

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in the know AROMATIC BLOOMS: LAVENDER, PEPPERMINT AND ROSEMARY Aromatherapy is an integral element of most skincare products and spas, and these three – primarily fragrance ingredients – can be considered the official trifecta of essential oils. Although not officially an herb, lavender is often used in herbal medicine, and is prized for its gentle fragrance which is said to enhance sleep, lower heart rate and blood pressure. It’s actually a distant cousin of peppermint and shares qualities with rosemary. Peppermint, a hybrid of watermint and spearmint, contains 44 percent menthol, which is primarily responsible for the plant’s benefits and has been used as a remedy for irritable bowel syndrome, nausea, skin conditions and colds. Rosemary is considered an anti-oxidant and can aid in memory improvement. The volatile chemicals that give all three their potent fragrance are also capable of causing sensitivity, so caution is necessary when applying essential oils directly on skin. B.C.-based Scentuals developed its Rosemary Mint Hand Repair Cream with organic aloe, shea butter and argan oil, which moisturizes with an intoxicating burst of aroma.

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top tips

All-natural, all Canadian

10 homegrown beauty and skincare companies that put nature first.

1. Céla. Founded by Celine Tadrissi of the Hammam Spa in Toronto, Céla products feature naturally sourced Canadian botanicals to nourish the skin. The popular Crème de la Crème moisturizer contains bioactive benefits from ingredients such as evening primrose, elderberry, juniper berry, rosemary and lavender. thisiscela.com 2. Eminence Organics. Since 1958, Eminence Organics has been providing customers with natural, organic high-quality skincare products, all while maintaining sustainable farming practices. Products like its award-winning Facial Recovery Oil feature plant ingredients from certified biodynamic/organic farms in Hungary. eminenceorganics.com 3. Graydon. Graydon Skincare prides itself on “plant-powered skincare,” mixing science with superfoods (such as oils from kale, cranberry, blueberry and goji) and bioactive ingredients. The array of products ranges from facial mists and serums to hair care and “home essentials” like an aromatic, non-toxic germ killer. graydonskincare.ca 4. Harlow Skin Co. All skincare products by Harlow Skin Co. contain 12 ingredients or less. Handmade in Vancouver and using only pure and whole ingredients, the product line includes tinted Skin Gloss for lips, cheeks and eyes, along with a selection of serums, oils, balms and toners. harlowskinco.com 5. Nayelle. With a focus on naturally sourced, probiotic ingredients including goat milk kefir and sea kelp, Nayelle’s skincare line has 100 percent active ingredients, compared to only 20 to 30 percent in most other skincare lines. nayelle.com 6. Bliss Botanicals. For over 10 years, Bliss Botanicals has used certified organic ingredients to meet customers’ skincare needs, with products such as White Clay Exfoliating Cleanser and Age Defying Resurfacing Toner. The company also offers a pediatric line that focuses on four skin types, from normal to eczema/dermatitis. blissbotanicals.ca 7. Province Apothecary. Based in Toronto, where its storefront also offers facials, Province Apothecary produces holistic, organic skincare products that are crueltyfree and vegan. The company also donates percentages of its yearly sales to Canadian Organic Growers and the Canadian Honey Council. provinceapothecary.ca 8. Pura Botanicals. This Alberta-based line of hand-crafted skincare products, as well as baby products and bespoke perfumes, is created without synthetic chemicals.

The selection of unique products includes Exotic Pink Coffee Dust, a plant-based exfoliator (with banana extract and fair-trade coffee from Colombia) that removes dead skin cells while moisturizing. purabotanicals.ca 9. Skin Essence Organics. Developed nearly 20 years ago, Skin Essence Organics provides products for all skin types. Not only are the products organic, but they use sustainable materials and practices throughout their shipping and packaging process, making them an all-around environmentally friendly company. skinessence.ca 10. Zorah Biocosmétiques. Founded in the early 2000s, Quebec-based Zorah Biocosmétiques uses only organic and fair-trade ingredients in its lineup, which includes exfoliants, face masks and makeup – among many other products to complete the ultimate skincare routine. zorahbiocosmetiques.com/en/ We'll also be featuring ongoing reviews on the Test Diva blog.

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in the know

BY VIVIENNE O’KEEFFE

Implanting

Happiness THE RESTORATIVE POWER OF VEGETATION IS ENJOYING NEW GROWTH

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in the know

There’s nothing like a quiet stroll through a forest after a spring rain, is there?

A

s one who lives in a wet climate near a forest, I’m lucky enough to enjoy the stimulating effect regularly.

It may be intuitive that connecting to nature makes us happier, but science confirms it. Conservation society Nature Canada says scientists have demonstrated changes in brain activity and reduced rumination (negative thoughts associated with depression) after a walk in nature. And Canada’s National Collaborating Centre for Environmental Health says time in nature improves mood by reducing stress and restoring attentiveness.

A 2007 study from the University of Essex in the U.K. found that as little as five minutes in a natural setting – whether in a park or gardening in one’s own back yard – improves mood, self-esteem and motivation, while a walk in the country reduces depression in 71 percent of participants.

In a later study, in 2010, Japanese researchers of shinrin-yoku, defined as “taking in the forest atmosphere” or “forest bathing,” found that even tiny fragments of the outdoors – the aroma of wood, the sound of running water, the sight of forest scenery – can reduce stress. A full listing of benefits found on www.shinrinyoku.org includes: • Boosted immune system • Reduced blood pressure • Reduced stress • Improved mood • Increased ability to focus, even in children • Accelerated recovery from surgery or illness • Increased energy level • Improved sleep Influential American naturalist, Harvard professor and Pulitzer Prize–winner Edward O. Wilson talks about biophilia, “the connection that human beings subconsciously seek and need with the rest of life.” A British Medical Journal article in 2005 coined the term “ecotherapy,” described as “restoring health through contact with nature.”

Growing up in what was then the small country town of Kilkenny, Ireland, I could watch first-hand the stress of running businesses and fund-raising for a hospital mercifully fade from my father’s face after his evening walk around Jenkinstown Wood, a walled garden loop where Irish poet Thomas Moore wrote The Last Rose of Summer. My Celtic DNA has always harboured an innate reverence of nature and the healing power of plants to restore. Even as a child, I learned to rub dock leaves on my skin to reduce the venomous sting of the dreaded nettle.

The benefits of nature are neither new nor uniquely Western.

Chinese master Tao Qian (also known as Tao Yuanming), a magistrate born in 365 who had grown discontented with his life and the corruption around him, moved with his family to a country village and took up farming. Despite the hardships and lack of food, he wrote poems about landscapes, flowers and wine, expressing deep connections to the life force of tao: “A bird once caged must yearn for its old forest, a fish in a pond will long to return to the lake.”

Two hundred years later, traditional Chinese medicine doctor Sun Simiao would encourage people to grow their own food and take walks in the country, breathing fresh air and connecting with nature to restore and maintain their health. Indian yogi Paramhansa Yogananda introduced millions to the teachings of meditation and Kriya Yoga, and founded an ashram and school for boys, where the natural beauty and peaceful atmosphere offered refreshment to mind and spirit. Traditions around the world advocate rising and retiring for sleep in concert with the natural rhythms of the sun. And in present-day Western society, smallscale family farms are undergoing a resurgence as young people exchange coffee shops and traffic jams for a piece of land in villages where they can keep chickens and grow pesticide-free food.

As important as the availability of nature, is its quality. A green paper from the Wildlife Trusts of the U.K. and the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (wildlifetrusts.org) reported, “People living near quality green space, full of wildlife and thriving habitats, were twice as likely to report low psychological distress as those living near low-quality open spaces.”

Of course, you don't have to live like Tarzan or Robin Hood to derive healthful benefits from plants. Most of us in the spa industry know that natural plant extracts have been used for eons in medicine and in skincare – horse chestnut, witch hazel, aloe vera, etc. Pharmaceutical companies have been using plant extracts (like willow bark for fever, pain and inflammation) since the mid-18th century.

Today’s consumers looking for “100 percent natural” skin and body care need to bear in mind this doesn't mean 100 percent healthy. Plant components – roots, leaves, seeds or bark – can contain powerful ingredients causing adverse effects in sensitive individuals. One example is chamomile extract in skin www. s p a inc .c a

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in the know

Plant extracts are key ingredients in the beneficial spa treatment of aromatherapy, which uses essential oils (the life force of the plant) to treat a variety of conditions.

Dating from ancient times and enjoying something of a resurgence today, aromatherapy – whether used in inhalation or massage – depends entirely on plants for its ingredients. cream, which can cause allergic eczema or eye irritation in some individuals.

Most botanical skincare producers recognize the importance of manufacturing procedures, correct labelling and technical training. Professionally produced plant extracts used in spa products usually go through extensive testing for heavy metals and microbial content, plus quality control systems such as organoleptic testing to determine colour, texture, smell, pH, viscosity and specific gravity.

Plant extracts are key ingredients in the beneficial spa treatment of aromatherapy, which uses essential oils (the life force of the plant) to treat a variety of conditions. Dating from ancient times and enjoying something of a resurgence today, aromatherapy – whether used in inhalation or massage – depends entirely on plants for its ingredients. The father of modern-day phyto-aromatherapy is considered to be French physician Jean Valnet, who used therapeutic-grade essential oils to treat injured soldiers in World War II. Our ability to smell comes from the olfactory sensory neurons, found in a small patch of tissue inside the nose which connects directly to the brain. When used properly, inhaled aromatic volatile essences bring about a variety of positive benefits to our sense of well-being. Neroli oil, for example, is calming; eucalyptus oil stimulates the immune system; and peppermint oil aids with digestion.

The essential oil of lemon has been irrefutably credited with powerful antiseptic and bactericidal properties. Scientists Morel and Rochaix demonstrated that vapours of lemon essence can neutralize various bacteria including meningococcus, typhus and pneumococcus. Lemon also can help clear the mind and dispel mental confusion.

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Sometimes the effects of aromatherapy are purely personal and emotional. It’s the individual’s reaction to the smells, rather than the substances in them, that triggers the desired effect. As pioneering environmentalist Rachel Carson pointed out, “The sense of smell, almost more than any other, has the power to recall memories, and it is a pity that we use it so little.”

The recent rise of aromatherapy has not gone unnoticed by the technology sector. A small device called Cyrano, a so-called “digital scent speaker and mood modification platform,” connects to a smartphone and releases a “symphony” of distinct smells chosen by its users with the touch of a few buttons to match whatever mood they're in. Similarly, a company called Petalwell (www.petalwell.com) offers a USB-compatible diffuser that allows the user to choose from a variety of aromas and “release the therapeutic benefits of pure essential oils into any space… At home, travelling, even in the office, you can unlock your body's own healing power to enhance well-being and influence moods,” the company says.

Clearly, combining modern technology with the healing powers of essential oils will have a pronounced effect on the nature and availability of aromatherapy. But that’s another story.

Vivienne O’Keeffe, AAD, PEA, CIBTAC, is President of Spa Profits Consulting Inc., and an expert in designing successful spa concepts. She is also an international consultant in developing product lines, treatment plans and training programs, a member of ISPA and a recipient of the Spa Industry Association of Canada Outstanding Industry Service Award in 2001, 2005 and 2012.

science of the spa

COMMODITIZATION OF MEDICAL COSMETIC TREATMENTS: WHY IS IT HAPPENING AND WHAT’S THE SIGNIFICANCE? D R . D I A N E WO N G

C

ommoditization of medical cosmetic treatments has brought medical procedures into everyday environments like spas, hair salons and “medi spas” popping up on every street corner – even, soon enough, in your local drug store. Having been in the medical cosmetic industry for over 18 years and having seen how high the standards were in the past, it is with regret that I see what has now become the norm. The commoditization of medical cosmetic treatments (such as Botox, dermal fillers such as Juvederm and Restylane, and laser treatments) was inevitable and predictable. It is extremely worrisome now to foresee the serious problems which likely will occur at an increasing rate due to the readily available access and the nonchalant attitude the public now holds for these medical procedures. In this article, I will explore why commoditization has occurred and why recognizing this trend is crucial to preventing it from continuing at an even greater pace.

Why has commoditization occurred? What was previously deemed medical treatments, limited to physician offices and clinics, now has become mainstream largely due to the internet and social media. The internet and social media are not as regulated as TV, print, and traditional media sources of the past.

Consumers have now become so familiar with these procedures, presented to them in an unregulated fashion, that they feel they are now educated and comfortable with the information they have gained on the internet. With familiarity comes comfort and with comfort comes higher demand. A higher demand leads to more providers coming into the market. As a result, there are various levels of providers and clinics now easily available.

Unfortunately, the regulations are not as clear as some professionals would like and it opens the door to interpretation of who is qualified to provide these medical treatments and under what supervision, circumstance and environment.

Furthermore, we are no longer clear of who the regulators are of www. s pa inc .c a

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science of the spa this rapidly expanding industry. It used to be that only physicians were providing these medical treatments. Now, however, there are physicians, nurses, aestheticians, and business owners who provide these services in a haphazard manner. So is it the College of Physicians and Surgeons (CPSO) or the College of Nurses or Health Canada who are the regulators? Is it the public themselves that should make their own choice, those who demand greater access and lower prices? We also no longer know what the regulations are, seemingly now open to interpretation. So how can regulations be enforced when it is all so gray and the public is wanting to believe that having Botox or filler injections or laser treatments are simple and without risk?

The public’s lack of awareness of the risks of medical cosmetic treatments is one of the main reasons that commoditization has occurred and the industry is booming. They no longer heed their sense of trepidation, rather they are convinced by the internet and social media that these procedures are so simple, safe and instantaneous. They no longer feel the need to seek a physician’s consultation. They feel educated enough by the information they obtain on Google, Instagram, Facebook, and WeChat (a popular Chinese social media channel). Sadly, these internet resources are now the main source of information for most consumers.

Many people now make their decision of where to get their cosmetic treatments done by researching on the internet.

However, that is neither the safest nor the suggested way of how to choose a medical professional. It seems as if a popular blogger says a certain place is safe and good, then it must be so. If a nurse or physician or aesthetician does a YouTube video showing his/ her skill to thousands of people and says they are “the best,” then it must be so. There is no validation of these self-made claims and therefore, the public can be swayed without restrictions. That is what we have to deal with when we try to educate the public.

We are battling the lack of censorship on the internet. Showing private medical treatments on YouTube and exploiting this lack of censorship has now become the norm. It is almost futile at this point to try to validate the information available on the internet.

What is even more distressing is that injectors are now learning techniques on the internet by watching videos of others who are

The public’s lack of awareness of the risks of medical cosmetic treatments is one of the main reasons that commoditization has occurred and the industry is booming.

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indiscriminately posting videos to gain notoriety. Discussions of risk are seldom entertained when demonstrating these potentially harmful procedures. Education in anatomy is certainly not taught. Novices can mistakenly copy what they have “learned” on YouTube and then put the public at risk by practicing these techniques. They may even be stimulated to do their own videos once they too feel they are now experts. It is a dangerous practice to “see one, do one, teach one”; especially when the credentials of the teacher are in question.

CPSO places many restrictions on physicians so it is difficult for physicians to educate the public except in our own treatment rooms. How can we reach the public when we are outnumbered by the vast expanse of unregulated internet channels? Unless we too resort to bombarding the internet and paying for clicks, it becomes almost impossible to have a voice. As physicians, we often still educate just one patient at a time as clients come into our office for private consultation. It is a slower process by far compared to utilizing the speed of the internet.

The CPSO is trying to regulate physicians to help to protect the public but that is not always enough, partly because there is often no physician involved or no named physician. Some businesses, clinics, and Medi spas are not exposing the name of their medical director and some clinics may not even have one, taking advantage of anonymity from the CPSO. What is worrisome is that these select clinics may not reveal their medical director’s name to patients even if a serious complication has occurred. But shouldn’t it be imperative for each patient to know who will be responsible if there are any complications that occur and how to seek medical help if needed?

Sadly, there are even more extreme conditions that are readily available. Unlicensed practitioners, illegal counterfeit products, and “Botox parties” in someone’s home are unfortunately a reality right now. Any steps towards improving the safety and

They no longer heed their sense of trepidation, rather they are convinced by the internet and social media that these procedures are so simple, safe and instantaneous.

science of the spa accessibility of medical cosmetic treatments can be seen as a positive move forward. Perhaps that justification is dependent on the criteria we use to determine what is acceptable vs what is gold standard.

We need to be careful that the public is always aware and protected. The public sometimes doesn’t want to be aware or protected though. They rather turn a blind eye so they can convince themselves that the deal they received was worth the minimally perceived risk. It seems that they unconsciously want to minimize the risks in their own minds to justify their decision to chase the deal. Isn’t it our duty as health care professionals to inform clients/patients of all that is involved and then they can make their own decisions?

It is important to recognize the significance of commoditization of medical cosmetic treatments. The public is at risk if we lose sight that this is a medical treatment and clients can easily become patients when there is a medical complication.

There is more than meets the eye in this competitive industry.

It is a challenging field which relies heavily on the patientphysician relationship, especially when problems occur, as they always do at one time or another. Complications are a risk when you do injectable treatments, lasers, and chemical peels. They can be severe and permanent if not treated appropriately and expediently.

Clients should do their own due diligence and choose a professional clinic with a strong reputation for quality treatments, customer service, and experience and expertise in the medical cosmetic field. A customized approach and forming a solid professional, trusting relationship with accountability are also key factors to consider. Unfortunately, as discussed, clients often now make their choice based on a cheaper price, promotions or incentives, convenience, and social media trends.

Time will tell what will be the new standard of care.

We are at a turning point now since the big businesses have entered the medical cosmetic market and will certainly soon outnumber the sole physician practitioners. The implications of discussing this issue are vast. But the safety of the public is crucial and we can no longer turn a blind eye to what is inherently becoming a high-risk situation. The public should be aware of the risks of medical cosmetic treatments and then they can make their own informed decision. They not only need to decide if they want to have treatments done, they need to decide where and under what environments and protocols, since medical cosmetic treatments are now so easily accessible in a wide variety of settings.

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Dr. Diane Wong, MD, is the owner and founder of Glow Medi Spa, with three convenient and luxurious locations in the Greater Toronto Area: Yorkville (downtown Toronto), Aurora and Markham, Ontario. Glow Medi Spa was voted as the Top Medi Spa in Canada for the past two consecutive years and Top 25 Spa in Canada for the past three consecutive years. Glow Medi Spa also received the Business of the Year Award in 2018. www.glowmedispa.ca

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fresh & new WILDCRAFT

Geranium Orange Blossom Toner

Thoughtfully minimalist, Wildcraft’s 100 percent natural skincare products are handmade in small batches with fresh and organic ingredients. The Geranium Organic Blossom Toner awakens skin with the scent of sweet citrus and helps reduce puffiness, calm inflammation, soften dead skin cells and increase hydration. Anti-microbial properties combat congestion and breakouts. wildcraftcare.ca

KANNAMASK

CBD-Infused Mask Sheet

From a small company in Victoria, B.C., comes a trend-setting mask sheet infused with 50mg of Cannabidiol (CBD), an ingredient known to reduce inflammation and redness. The mask comes in two formulas for healing, hydrating and refreshing the face, packed with lavender/honey or rosehip/rosemary/lavender for a luxurious experience. kannamask.com

TATA HARPER

Resurfacing Serum

A starter serum, brimming with high-performance botanical ingredients, is one of Tata Harper’s newest eco-based products, boosting radiance with seven AHAs and BHAs that slough off dead skin cells and give skin a healthy-looking glow. Powerpacked with antioxidants, it fights the effects of free radicals, which contribute to aging. global.tataharperskincare.com

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HERBIVORE BOTANICALS

Pink Cloud Rosewater Moisture Creme

Indulge your skin in Pink Cloud, one of the latest products from Herbivore Botanicals, a company committed to organic, high-quality and food-grade ingredients. Pink Cloud hydrates facial skin, visibly plumping and smoothing with a glowing and dewy finish.

Rosewater, aloe water and white tea extract also help reduce redness. herbivorebotanicals.com

fresh & new SKINPROVEMENT ORGANICS

Simply Hyaluronic Replenishing Gel

Skinprovement Organics recently introduced its Simply Hyaluronic Replenishing Gel, with 89 percent organic ingredients, reflecting its commitment to products that are certified organic.

The company uses a wide array of luscious natural ingredients, from aloe vera and amla to rich butters and oils, beeswax and an abundance of florals. skinprovementorganics.com

BUCK NAKED SOAP COMPANY

Clean and Simple

Buck Naked Soap Company recently teamed up with the WE Charity, creating a signature collection that supports clean water in Kenya.

Complementing a line of vegan, allnatural skincare and grooming products (including pet shampoo), the WE collection includes WE Bar soap, WE Rock bath bomb and Jasmine Mosaic Bar soap. bucknakedsoapcompany.com

SAHAJAN

Ritual Body Oil

BLISS BOTANICALS

Lash & Brow Booster Serum

The BioBliss Lash & Brow Booster Serum promises thicker, longer lashes in three weeks. Peptides in this product help with eyelash growth, making lashes appear longer and thicker. Bliss Botanicals handcrafts its products in small batches, using natural and science-based ingredients and the utmost care to ensure quality. blissbotanicals.ca

A rich collection of Ayurvedic skincare products by Sahajan finds its inspiration in a 5,000-year-old herbal tradition of mind-body health. Among the products, Sahajan’s Ritual Body Oil seals moisture into the skin and creates a protective barrier.

It’s truly a ritual for the mind and the body. sahajan.ca

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fresh & new COCOON APOTHECARY

Malechemy Skin Care Box

WATCH THE SPA INC. BLOG FOR UPCOMING “TEST DIVA” REVIEWS OF MORE PLANTBASED BRANDS.

marketplace

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Everything a man needs to keep skin clean, smooth and moisturized, this kit pays homage to healthy masculinity.

It includes a gentle foaming tea tree and aloe cleanser, a juniper and hemp moisturizer and a spice-scented Bay Rum aftershave. Cocoon’s plantbased line is vegan, biodegradable and made with ethically sourced ingredients. cocoonapothecary.ca

spa star business terms and protocols and demystifying the investment process has been intense. I highly recommend a good lawyer, a good business mentor and a good accountant.

What is the biggest reward?

The biggest reward, and the one that really keeps me going, is knowing that Sappho is offering a product that is good for both the individual and the world. The more intimate reward comes with seeing someone’s face light up after we have done their makeup, or hearing from someone recovering from cancer and being able to be a small part of their healing process.

JOANN FOWLER B Y J AY N E A S H L E Y H E AT O N

J

oAnn Fowler made actors and actresses look pictureperfect for decades. Her career as an Emmy-nominated makeup artist landed her a prominent spot on television shows like The L Word, and major silver-screen series such as Twilight and the Final Destination franchise. But when an actress drew Fowler’s attention to the parabens, phthalates and other hard-to-pronounce ingredients with either known or suspected harmful properties, Fowler’s conscience compelled her to do something about it. Today, she is the founder of Sappho New Paradigm, a Vancouver-based company producing a line of natural, organic cosmetics that function as beautifully in real life as they do on high-definition screens – created with a business model that stands for best ethical practices, honesty and transparency, without compromise.

What motivated you to start your business?

A paragraph from the book Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of Beauty (by Stacy Malkan) changed my life. It cited hundreds of chemicals found in the blood of test subjects – parabens, phthalates and even rocket fuel from the 1970s. The test subjects were newborn babies from across the United States in 2004, so new they hadn’t even left the hospital yet.

I read about the permeability of skin and realized that as a makeup artist, I had been putting chemicals on people without any conscious understanding of what I was doing. But I loved what I did and I wanted to keep doing it, so I felt compelled to create a clean-performing alternative to what I had been using and to allow others to make their own choice.

What is the biggest challenge not only with starting your own business, but with maintaining it?

The biggest challenge has been learning how to negotiate basic business with integrity and ethos. The intricacies of commerce have involved a huge learning curve because it was something quite alien to me. Coming from a creative background, learning

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What have you learned about the power of plants since starting your line, and are there any "super-powered" plant-based ingredients you prefer?

Plants and their properties are very important to Sappho, and we utilize many in our formulations. I realize that jojoba oil does not seem particularly exotic, however, it is one of the most important plant ingredients that Sappho utilizes. The structure of jojoba oil is different from other oils as it's actually a wax ester and not an oil at all – it’s deeply hydrating and full of vitamin E and B, as well as antioxidants and minerals, yet it does not affect oily skin. It does not evaporate and naturally deters microbes, helping to prevent the growth of bacteria on skin. Because jojoba is a wax ester that behaves much the same as our own skin oils, this ingredient is amazing for acneic skin as it is “oil-less” and yet performs beautifully on dry skin as it provides a substantial longacting layer of moisture.

How do you prioritize self-care — do you have any rituals or me-time musts?

Probably the most important ritual that I prioritize is a morning meditation. Meditation helps me stay grounded for the day, and I think it also makes me more receptive to any magic that might come my way.

Certainly the long hours of running a business are a challenge but, then again, when I worked in film I did those same hours but often outside!

Frankly, my biggest struggle is feeding myself properly – working in film for 25 years, I was accustomed to being fed, so to take the time to make a meal that I find inviting, delicious and nutritious is a rare event. I often eat on the go.

What are your favourite spa experiences?

I love to get a facial, but bringing this back to the question of self-care, it is not something I am able to do as regularly as I would like. There is something so inherently healing when you get a great facial, as it’s not just about your skin but also about the experience of de-stressing and being cared for. I also go for an elapromed treatment a couple of times a year. It is a system that opens the pores and enables pure serum to be deposited very deeply into the skin – the difference in my skin is amazing!

What’s next for you?

This is intrinsically connected with what is next for Sappho. These products are not only my legacy but also my apology to the younger generation. I want to continue to create cleaner, better, more beautiful products that serve both our need for sustainability and for adornment.

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