SPA Inc. Fall 2017

fall 2017

Canada’s spa connection

The Socially Conscious Spa Business Find a cause worth fighting for

Skin Care For Men

With travelling spa guy Mark Smith

Niagara Falls’

Christienne Fallsview Spa

www.spainc.ca

Publications Mail NO. 40026342

$6

A breathtaking view from the honeymoon capital

contents

12

spa news

News from the spa industry

6

Skin care starts with the foods we put in our mouths

19

spa light

Christienne Fallsview Spa: a view from the falls

8

spa business

22

in the know

Clients are looking for businesses that are as socially active as they are

12 Knowing when to toss out your products

Add cupping treatments to your menu

22 The best in spa skin care for men

24

science of the spa

Banishing those brown spots your clients picked up in the summer

27

17

fresh & new

Nail art, diamond serum, and other new spa products, tools and equipment

30

spa star

25

Long drive golf champion and entrepreneur, Fareen Samji

32

30 Cover Photo: Christienne Fallsview Spa

www. s p a inc .c a

3

between us fa l l 2 0 1 7

Connecting the

Wellness Dots I

n reading (and writing) the articles in this issue, my definition of what it means to be a wellness business has expanded. Being a wellness business means offering innovative spa treatments and products, to be sure, but it also means taking a holistic approach to skin care (page 19) and connecting with clients through involvement in social causes (page 12). Being a wellness business also encompasses your health and safety practices, like knowing how long you can keep spa products on the shelf before they need to be tossed in the bin (page 17).

Wellness isn’t just a designation, it’s a corporate philosophy and it should influence every decision and fuel every activity a wellness business engages in. If you as a spa business or a spa product distributor are talking the wellness talk and walking the walk, you reinforce your reputation as a trustworthy and positive brand.

That appeals to what Éminence Organic Skin Care President Boldijarre Koronczay refers to as “mindful philanthropists,” a new generation of socially conscious, label reading, educated consumers who are holding the businesses they patronise to a higher standard. Make sure Hermione Wilson you’re not found wanting. assistant Editor

ISSN 1710 -1727 Volume 14, Number 3

Publisher Susan A. Browne sbrowne@dvtail.com

Editorial Theresa Rogers Director trogers@dvtail.com

Assistant Hermione Wilson Editor hwilson@dvtail.com

Art Katrina Teimo Director kteimo@dvtail.com

Contributors

Shannon Mariani Vivienne O’Keeffe Mary Orlando Isabelle Villeneuve

Advertising Beth Kukkonen Manager bkukkonen@dvtail.com

Advertising Kim Cristini kcristini@dvtail.com 905-707-3510

Marketing Stephanie Wilson Manager swilson@dvtail.com

VP of Roberta Dick Production robertad@dvtail.com

Production Crystal Himes Coordinator chimes@dvtail.com

Published four times a year by: Dovetail Communications Inc. President: Susan A. Browne Tel: 905-886-6640 Fax: 905-886-6615 Email: general@dvtail.com SUBSCRIPTIONS AND RETURNS 30 East Beaver Creek Rd, Suite 202 Richmond Hill, Ontario L4B 1J2 PUBLICATIONS MAIL AGREEMENT NO. 40026342 Legal Deposit – National Library of Canada. All rights reserved.

No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the written permission of the publisher. Dovetail Communications Inc. cannot be held responsible for any losses or other damages incurred by readers in reliance on information appearing in Spa Inc. Spa Inc. and Dovetail Communications Inc. do not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising.

Spa Inc. will review unsolicited submissions (hard copy or digital texts, photos or illustrations) for editorial consideration but does not guarantee their publication. The submitted material may be used without consent or payment.

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4 S p a Inc. | Fall 2 017

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spa news

Montreal’s New Five-Star Hotel

CIDESCO Gets Creative with Body Art in India

Le Mount Stephen Hotel has received a five-star classification certificate from the Corporation de l’industrie touristique du Quebec (CITQ). The CITQ grants five-star status to a select few establishments that demonstrate excellence in an evaluation based on six criteria: rooms, bathrooms, food services, interior improvements, building exterior, as well as services, activities and facilities on the premises (this includes spas). Le Mount Stephen Hotel is a luxury location in downtown Montreal that opened last spring. The hotel has 90 rooms and suites, a ballroom, a reception room and several private lounges, and is home to the MBIOSPA Prestige and Bar George restaurant.

The CIDESCO World Congress’s annual Make-up & Body Art competition recognizes skilled and creative makeup artists, and is open to both students and professionals. At the 65th CIDESCO World Congress, held September in Mumbai, India, entrants were tasked with creating unique looks based on the theme “Five Elements of Nature”. The winning artists created dramatic body art using props, prosthetics, make-up and hairstyling to enhance their ideas. The competition called for all areas of the body on display to emulate the artist’s theme within a five-hour period. The artists then presented their work on-stage accompanied by music they selected themselves to support the concept of their art. The judging panel was made up of some of CIDESCO’s most experienced professionals, including Godard Koremans, Joma de Roos, Julie Lew, Julia Leone, Jyotsna Thopte and Beverley Crowther. Winning the Student Category was Bhushan Sutar, whose creation was entitled, “The Importance of Being in Nature”. Runners up were Manisha Gauhane with “Creation of the Universe” and Swati Vangi with “Water and Fire Disaster”.

In the Professional Category, Kiran Manjrekar took first place with “Mother Nature”. Runners up were Jiten Giri with “Pancha Mahabuta”, a Sanskrit term meaning “five great elements”, and Ashish Galande with “The Relationship between the 5 Elements of Nature & God”.

Canadian Spa Receives International Recognition The Top New Spa winner of the 2015 Canadian Spa and Wellness Awards, iwa Spa, has gained international recognition as a luxury wellness spa. iwa Spa was awarded Luxury Wellness Spa of the Year, Canada at the 2017 World Luxury Spa Awards Gala Ceremony hosted by the JW Marriott Hanoi, Vietnam in July. Award winners were selected through a combination of nomination and spa guest voting. “This is our seventh significant award since we opened less than two years ago [in September 2015],” says Michelle Ubell, Owner, iwa Spa. “I’m so glad to see our focus on wellness and delivering an outstanding guest experience be recognized.” In addition to its World Luxury Award, iwa Spa has also been awarded Best Hidden Gem & Top Spa for Yoga in 2016, Top Luxury Spa Ontario 2016, Top 25 Spas in Canada 2016, and 2016 Collingwood Chamber of Commerce Business Excellence Awards for Services, Industry and Trades. iwa Spa is a full service wellness spa, based in Blue Mountain Village, Ontario, which opened its doors in July 2015.

6 S p a Inc. | Fall 2 017

spa news

Massage Addict Opens 75th Clinic Massage Addict Inc., Canada’s largest registered massage therapy company, opened its 75th clinic in September, in Red Deer, Alberta. Franchise owner and Registered Massage Therapist, Cora Hasna, opened her doors on September 19 in the Timberland area of Red Deer. Hasna, who has been an RMT since 2011, says she was impressed with the level of support she received from Massage Addict throughout the four-month franchising process, which included walking her through a detailed schedule of tasks leading right up to opening day. “The timeline is very detailed and the whole process has made all the hard work much easier,” she says. All franchisees are guided by Massage Addict’s head office through everything from finding a site to construction, training, recruiting, opening day and beyond. “Our focus is simple: It is support, support, and more support,” says Fraser Clarke, CEO, Massage Addict. “We continue to put an emphasis on infrastructure, training, and keeping the lines of communication open between the franchisees and HQ to ensure the highest quality treatments and an exceptional work culture.”

the reference in spa products

canadian made www. s pa inc .c a

7

spa light

Christienne fallsview

Spa

8 S p a Inc. | Fall 2 017

spa light

By Hermione Wilson

rooms with a view

C

hristienne Fallsview Spa at Sheraton on the Falls has a room with a view. The treatment room (pictured on the front cover) on the 14th floor of the hotel overlooks the grandeur of Niagara Falls. It was built to incorporate the incredible view and a private infinity pool.

“We actually created that room specifically for the infinity [pool] itself,” says Sarah Vasquez, Vice-President of Marketing and Business Development with Canadian Niagara Hotels, about the 144-sq. ft. room.

Christienne’s signature Infinity Spa Experience was designed to make full use of the well-appointed treatment room and includes a drinks menu, since the spa is licensed to serve alcohol. Vasquez says there are a lot of proposals that take place in the room. For birthdays, the spa can arrange to have a cake ready and waiting.

The experience lasts for 20 minutes, which is the recommended time for the hot pool.

It also allows time for it to be sterilized before the next client arrives.

“ From what I understand, we’re the only ones who offer this experience in Canada.”

Aside from the Infinity Spa Experience, Christienne’s most-booked treatments are its massages, of which hot stone, Thai hot stem, and reflexology are the most popular.

In addition, as Niagara Falls is the honeymoon capital of the world, the spa often hosts couples looking for a romantic experience. They tend to favour the Couples Retreat spa package that includes two massages and a soak in the hydrotherapy tub.

Also overlooking the falls is the manicure and pedicure room, which features floor-to-ceiling windows. It is separated from the relaxation and refreshment area by a piece of glass so »

www. s pa inc .c a

9

spa light

Throughout the spa, clients will smell a combination of lavender, orange and peppermint, Christienne Spa’s signature scents.

that both rooms can enjoy the view. “The angle is such that you can see both [the U.S. and Canadian] sides of the falls beautifully,” says Spa Director Diana Venturini. “The relaxation area also has floor-toceiling windows so you get this beautiful view while you’re sitting waiting for treatments or in between treatments.”

But what really distinguishes Christienne Fallsview Spa is its worldclass customer service, Venturini says.

“We really try to go above and beyond,” she says. “I always say to my staff, ‘You can get a massage anywhere.’ Massages are great most places you go to, but we really try hard to raise the level of expectation here.

We try to make people feel like they’re a guest in our home.”

Venturini has chosen every detail of the

10 S pa Inc. | Fall 2 017

spa very carefully, from the products used – Farmhouse Fresh for those who prefer the organic, vegan option, and Guinot for clients who tend more toward pharmaceutical-grade spa care – to the scents wafting through its halls.

Throughout the spa, clients will smell a combination of lavender, orange and peppermint, Christienne Spa’s signature scents. “I started experimenting a little bit, and that [mixture] just tended to be more appealing to people when they walk in,” Venturini says. “They always make a

comment about the scent.”

The spa’s high rating on the TripAdvisor site attests to Venturini’s dedication to providing an unmatched customer experience. Christienne is ranked number one in the Niagara Falls region and has been award TripAdvisor’s Certificate of Excellence. “We put a lot of validity into TripAdvisor,” Vasquez says, adding that, as a Sheraton brand, the spa is also required to survey all of its customers.

“We send out surveys to everyone who gives us their email address to see how we did, and for the last year we were at 9.4/10,” Venturini says proudly. “That’s pretty significant; that’s pretty high.”

Vasquez says a lot of the credit goes to Venturini, who came on board as spa director five years ago with 21 years of spa business experience. Since Venturini arrived, Vasquez says Christienne Fallsview Spa has been voted Niagara’s number one spa and one of the top five spas

spa light in Ontario on TripAdvisor five years in a row. “We give [Diana] a ton of accolades for that, because when she took over I believe we were in, like, the 20s and then she’s brought it up,” Vasquez says. “She’s been able to maintain the top five, but she strives every day to get to the number one spot in Ontario and then we’ll take on Canada.”

Christienne Fallsview SPA Size: 2,500 square-feet Number of treatment rooms: 6 Number of staff: 20 retail: Farmhouse Fresh, Guinot

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spa business

and the

awareness Socially Conscious Spa Brand

By Hermione Wilson

O

ctober was Breast Cancer Awareness Month, a time when brands and businesses around the world do their part to raise awareness about a disease which has claimed the lives of so many women and to support efforts to fund further research into treatments and hopefully – someday – a cure. Corporate fundraising and awareness campaign activities sometimes involve joining up with a larger campaign, like the Run for the Cure or working with a national organization like the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation, but companies will also often organize their own fundraising events by selling products associated with the distinctive pink ribbon that has become the symbol of the breast cancer awareness movement.

Naturally beautiful

For Shadoh Punnapuzha, founder of spa product brand Arya Essentials, the international breast cancer awareness campaign is very personal to her. Punnapuzha watched her mother suffer with breast cancer for more than 13 years before she succumbed to the disease at the age of 48.

“For her, one of the hardest things... she was beautiful,” Punnapuzha says of her mother. “She had long hair and she always cared about makeup, and looking good and feeling good. It was such a hard thing [for her] to lose all her hair.” Punnapuzha recalls organizing spa days for her mother when she came home from a round of chemotherapy. She would give her mother massages and homemade natural beauty remedies that had been passed down from generation to generation of women in her family, rooted in their homeland of India. Punnapuzha would mimic her mother who would often grind sandalwood with a stone and mix it with honey and turmeric to make a facial mask, or apply fresh hibiscus flowers heated in coconut oil to her hair. In recreating those traditional beauty treatments, Punnapuzha tried her best to pamper her mother during her long illness.

“It made her smile and it made her feel good,” Punnapuzha says. “That’s when I realized that those little self-love things – just spending that time just for yourself instead of focusing on the worst of life – it makes a big difference.” This philosophy about the importance of treating and loving yourself, forged amidst the devastation of her mother’s struggle with cancer, is what eventually inspired 12 S pa Inc. | Fall 2 017

spa business How to be Socially Conscious Punnapuzha to start her own company where she put all the natural beauty lessons she learned at her mother’s feet to good use.

Today, Punnapuzha donates 15 per cent of the proceeds from the sale of Arya Essentials products to the Young Survival Coalition, an organization that represents young women in Shadoh Punnapuzha, founder of their 30s and 40s who are Arya Essentials going through breast cancer and the unique issues that they face. To Punnapuzha, it is important to get the message out that breast cancer can affect even women under 35 who have no family history of the disease, as was the case with her mother. “[My mother] had six sisters and none of them had breast cancer except for her,” she says. “It wasn’t even on her radar, and especially at that age. That’s why it’s such an important thing for us to build that awareness.”

An organic way of life

Organic beauty advocates Éminence Organic Skin Care has long been involved in charitable activities. Ten years ago, a family member close to the spa products supplier was diagnosed with breast cancer and the company decided it should get involved with the cause. “We felt by getting involved with fundraising, we might be able to support the research to create better treatment for cancer patients now and in the future,” says Jessica Timberlake, Public Relations Manager. “We also felt compelled to support the many women who are touched by this form of cancer. As women are the primary users of Éminence Organic Skin Care, it was important to establish a relatable charitable cause.”

Since then, every October, the company participates in the Run for the Cure in Vancouver, and donates five dollars from every Sweet Red Rose Whip Moisturizer it sells to the Breast Cancer Foundation, a campaign which runs all year long. “Last year we donated over $30,000 between sales of the Sweet Red Rose and fundraising around Run for the Cure,” Timberlake says. »

You’ve decided as an organization to get involved with a charitable cause, but how do you go about it? Jessica Timberlake, Public Relations Manager for Éminence Organic Skin Care, has this advice: 1. Get the entire team on board. “It’s really important to find a cause that your entire team is on board with and that they want to support all together, because at the end of the day it’s really about the people you have championing the cause.”

2. Build charitable/social initiatives into business plan. Building social initiatives into your business plan from the beginning is the way to go, Timberlake says. That way there are no surprises.

3. Find the right cause. “Sometimes we just have causes that feel good to support,” Timberlake says. She recounts how Éminence was contacted by esthetics students from a college in Texas after a flood had destroyed their esthetics kits, which cost about $600-700 each. The students asked if Éminence would support the restocking of their kits so that they could perform their practicals to get their esthetician licences, which the company did. Although it didn’t fit in with Éminence’s usual wellness and environmental theme, Timberlake says it was a cause Éminence felt passionate about.

4. Find the right charitable partner. “We look at whether the organization shares some of our core values and we’re really focused on anything related to organic, anything related to cancer support for kids and families, and we’re really interested environmental initiatives. Find a great charitable partner that is willing to embrace everything that you can offer them.”

“We felt by getting involved with fundraising,

we might be able to support the research to create better treatment for cancer patients now and in the future.”

– Jessica Timberlake, Public Relations Manager, Éminence Organic Skin Care www. s p a inc .c a

13

spa business The Breast Cancer Awareness initiatives are one of the company’s biggest charitable efforts, but it doesn’t stop there. In keeping with the company’s dedication to all things organic, its non-profit Éminence Kids Foundation delivers organic meals and cold-pressed juice to sick children undergoing treatment.

President of Éminence Organic Skin Care, Boldijarre Koronczay, along with his family, was inspired to create the foundation in 2013 because of his personal experience with childhood cancer. At the age of four years old, Koronczay was diagnosed with a rare form of childhood leukemia and when doctors gave him a 0.1% chance of survival, his parents and grandparents nursed him back to health with natural, organic foods. “We just really believe that organic nutrition is an important component of the body’s overall recovery, in addition to the treatments that they receive,” Timberlake says. Éminence also supports environmental initiatives through its partnership with Trees for the Future, which started in 2012. For every product Éminence sells, the Trees for the Future team plants one tree. “We just reached over eight million trees planted,” Timberlake says. Once the right site has been found to plant trees, a training team goes in and educates farmers about how to turn the soil, what to plant, how to cultivate, and how they can keep those

crops growing all year long and beyond. It allows these families to supplement their diets and creates a source of income, all while improving the environment.

Getting involved

The importance of being a socially conscious organization, especially in a day and age where consumers are becoming more engaged in social justice and environmental causes, cannot be overstated. Koronczay calls spa consumers “mindful philanthropists,” Timberlake says. He understands that spa guests aren’t just thinking about their own wellness, they are considering the wellness of the world around them as well. By being involved in these socially conscious initiatives, you are drawing in these mindful consumers. It’s no longer enough to sell an exceptional and ethically produced product; spas and spa product companies alike must back up their corporate philosophy with action. “[Boldijarre] really believes in corporate social responsibility and when you get to the point where you can give back, it’s a moral and ethical obligation,” says Timberlake of the president. “Because we are fortunate to have the support of estheticians and spas around the world who believe in us, we want to pay that forward and give it back as much as we can.”

The Spa Industry Association of Canada (SIAC)

E l E vat E Y o u r B u s i n E s s J o i n C a n a d a’ s o n lY n at i o n a l s pa a s s o C i at i o n

• Representing all types and sizes of spas, as well as resource and education partners • Networking & knowledge exchange • Canada’s only third-party verified Quality Assurance program • Member directory distributed through major airlines and tourism outlets • Industry marketing and promotion

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spa business

Shelf Life Know when to toss out your products B y M a ry O r l a n d o

I

t’s easy to forget that many active skin care ingredients are fragile. It’s only a matter of time until heat and oxygen render them useless. Products expire as soon as their expiration date or the end of their PAO (period after opening) is reached. Here are some definitions you should be familiar with in order to determine when to throw out your spa products: Production date (or manufacture date) is the date when the product was manufactured. This date may or may not be on the product’s packaging.

Expiration date is the date the product expires and should not be used anymore. Expiration dates must be specified only for products that have a shelf life of 30 months or less. The date is printed directly on product package in the form month/year or day/month/year. For example: Exp. 03/18 means that you can use the product only until March, 2018. If the shelf life of the product is more than 30 months, the expiry date will not usually be printed directly on the product package. This doesn’t mean that clients should use the product for three years or more, instead, it means that they should look at the product’s PAO. Period after opening (PAO) is used to signify how long you can use your product once you open it. The PAO looks like an open jar with a number followed by the letter M. The number indicates how many months (M) the product can be safely used for after opening. For example 9M means that product can be used for nine months after opening.

Here is my mini product shelf life guide: Moisturizing Creams and Serums Toss after 1 year A moisturizer or serum that contains anti-aging ingredients will last three to six months, max. I suggest reading and following the directions on the package. Don’t put your own spin on what the manufacturer is telling you; a product’s performance is dependent on proper use. A plain moisturizer may last past the one-year mark as long as you don’t contaminate it by repeatedly dipping into the jar.

Grainy Scrubs Toss after 2 years Although these exfoliants contain synthetic beads, an open

tube will become a breeding ground for bacteria over time.

Used properly (i.e. two to three times a week) a 50 ml tube will last six months.

Peels and Masks Toss after 6-9 months After six to nine months, the buffering agents in peels and masks can start to evaporate, making active ingredients like fruit acids and glycolic acid irritating to the skin.

Sunscreens and Sun Block Follow expiration date on package These products are actually government-regulated and manufacturers are required to print expiration dates on the package. Use this date, because after it expires the company cannot guarantee that the product will actually protect the skin from the sun.

Products that contain water as one of the first ingredients have the shortest shelf life because water encourages the growth of bacteria and other microbes and pathogens.

Products made up of almost no water – powders, for example – have the longest shelf life, because most bacteria cannot flourish or grow in these kinds of products.

If a product starts to separate or develop a funky odor, its texture or color changes, if it feels different on the skin than it once did, or if you can’t remember when you bought it, it’s probably time to toss it. In a best-case scenario, expired products just stop doing what they should do. In a worstcase scenario, expired products can result in skin irritation, dermatitis, allergic reactions, and infection.

Mary Orlando is the owner of Featuring You Spa & Salon and a part-time professor at Seneca College’s Department of Esthetics and Spa Therapies in Toronto. Mary is also a Sheridan College external program reviewer, a cosmetic Outstanding Service Awards judge, Contessa Awards judge and a Look Good Feel Better volunteer.

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in the know

Skin Care

Superfoods

By Hermione Wilson

I

f the skin is our largest organ, it stands to reason that when something is amiss in the body, it shows on the skin. It also means that certain foods can have an effect on the skin, whether negative or positive. We are what we eat, essentially.

Mississauga, Ontario-based Orly Wachter is a registered dietitian who has made a career of counselling people about what to eat in order to support healthy skin. Wachter started her career working at a cancer centre caring for patients who were going through chemotherapy. She spent a lot of time advising her patients about safe products and ingredients they could use on their skin, which was very sensitive and dry as a result of their cancer treatment. That experience, coupled with her personal journey to solve her own skin issues through diet, led Wachter to connect her two passions.

“All health starts with gut health,” Wachter says. Certain foods, like dairy, that are rich in hormones, can create imbalances in the body and cause inflammation, she says. And while some people may have food sensitivities or allergies they might not even be aware of, there are skin conditions that are associated with food sensitivities, like dermatitis herpetiformis, which is associated with celiac disease, Wachter says. “That’s just even more proof that a digestive issue can manifest itself on our skin.”

When it comes to eating foods that promote beautiful skin, Wachter recommends a lot of fruits and vegetables, colourful foods, and limiting processed foods. Here are her top five skin care superfood favourites:

1.

Avocadoes. They are incredibly popular right now and with good reason.

Avocadoes are rich in healthy monounsaturated fats. The good news is that not only will eating avocadoes benefit skin health by contributing to the structure of cell membranes in the body and keeping skin plump and hydrated, they can also be used externally as a face mask. “Avocado oil is one of the oils that can penetrate deeper into the skin, compared with some of the other oils out there,” Wachter says. “They’re kind of a multipurpose beauty food.”

Berries. With their rich, dark colouring and juicy interiors, this family of fruits is rich in antioxidants that prevent free radicals from doing cellular damage in the body. Wachter recommends buying organic berries, because some, especially strawberries, may be contaminated by farming methods.

3.

2.

Wild Salmon. This delicious fish is rich in omega-3 fats and is an antiinflammatory, Wachter says. » www. s p a inc .c a

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in the know 4.

Nuts and Seeds. Wachter especially recommends Brazil nuts and pumpkin seeds. “Pumpkin seeds are rich in zinc, which is an important nutrient for skin, and then Brazil nuts are a really good source of selenium, which is hard to find in your diet from other places,” she says.

Cruciferous Vegetables.

This includes broccoli, cauliflower and kale, Wachter says. “That whole family is really important for helping with the natural liver detoxification pathways.”

5.

That takes care of what to put in the body to get beautiful, healthy skin, but what about what to put on skin? Wachter says a lot depends on skin type. For example, coconut oil is an ingredient that comes up a lot in the natural beauty world, but the RD cautions against it. “For people who have acne-prone skin, it’s not a great one because it’s quite comedogenic,” Wachter says. She adds, some natural products use coconut oil in a different form or in low amounts, and it can be harmless in blends, but using 100 per cent coconut oil from the grocery store can be a problem.

“It’s only really good for people who have really dry, mature skin who don’t break out ever.”

For acne-prone skin, Wachter says some of her favourites include rosehip seed oil, jojoba oil and hemp seed oil. Foods like oatmeal, which is very calming, or ground lentils and chickpea flour, which are used in some cultures as exfoliants, can be quite effective in natural skin care, she says.

Wachter has a couple of rules of thumb to keep in mind when it comes to eating to support skin health: chewing and hydrating. The latter seems like a given – drinking lots of water and eating foods like cucumbers and watermelon is important for keeping skin hydrated – but chewing? “Chewing is the most important thing you can do for digestion because digestion starts in your mouth,” she says. “It’s the mechanical process of breaking down the food. I always tell people to be mindful when they’re eating and take the time to chew, because it puts a lot less strain on the rest of your digestive system.”

Orly Wachter, registered dietitian

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1.

2.

3.

4.

1. S ZÉP ÉLET Grape Stem Cell Solutions Gel Mask www.szepelet.com 2. OSSETRA SKINCARE Blueberry Boost Powder www.icspaproducts.ca, 3.

SKIN ESSENCE ORGANICS Rosehip Seed Oil www.skinessence.ca 4.

SIBU BEAUTY Omega-7 Support www.sibu.com

in the know

Cupping

Alternative medicine for the spa B y Sh a n n o n Mariani

22 S p a Inc. | Fall 2 017

W

hile recent media attention has brought popularity to the treatment, the act of cupping is an ancient form of alternative medicine dating back to the ancient Egyptians. Cupping occurs when a tool or cup is placed on the skin and forms a suction. This creates a vacuum and lifts the skin into the interior of the cup.

With proper training and the right mindset, cupping can be a unique and deeply therapeutic service that elevates the spa experience.

There are many benefits to cupping, including increased circulation, loosening of the connective tissue or fascia, plain relief from muscle soreness or spasms, toxin release, slimming effects on cellulite dimpling and more. Different techniques and tools will yield different results.

in the know

Cupping can also be partnered with other services at a spa such as deep tissue massages, reflexology and even acupuncture. At The Spa in Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas, we use a combination of cupping and advance massage techniques to draw out impurities and relieve muscle tension without bruising or scarring the body.

When considering implementing the treatment in an establishment, the first step is to evaluate the needs of the spa’s clientele and determine which type of cupping method is appropriate for that group. There are several variations of cupping that range from light massages to very technical types which can be intimidating for some clients.

Here are some points to consider when choosing what type of cupping treatments to add to your spa menu: Tools and Techniques – The types of cups used during the treatment can affect its benefits. Some of the most common kinds involve glass cups with an added element of fire and silicone cups that are depressed on the skin. We use silicone cups because they are more user-friendly, pliable and don’t have as harsh of an effect on the skin as other approaches.

Therapists may also choose to apply the cups by hand, which involves squeezing the air out of the cup manually and placing it on the skin, or by attaching a gadget to the top of the cup to vacuum the air out.

Stagnant versus Sliding – Placing or parking the cups versus sliding them is also a minor but important difference. When cups are parked for a few minutes, it often results in round bruises like the ones that were seen on swimmer Michael Phelps during the 2016 Olympic Games. When cups are moved along the skin and not left stagnant, the skin will often get a little red during the process, but will rarely leave marks. This is done by applying massage oil to aid in gliding the cups over the skin.

Dry versus Wet Cupping – Dry cupping is a method where suctions are created via cups on particular points on the body. Wet cupping takes this a step further by pricking or creating small incisions on the skin to release any toxic blood or fluids built up in the body.

Treatment room at the Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas.

After determining which cupping method is right for the spa, properly training staff and applying the right protocols when providing the treatment is equally crucial in ensuring guests are receiving the best service.

There are many Continuing Education Unit (CEU) courses therapists can take to further educate themselves about cupping. These courses are essential in making sure they have a basic understanding of the treatment and are comfortable with the technique.

Spas should also decide what steps therapists will carry out in the treatment room when interacting with guests. They may want to consider having guests fill out additional release forms that are separate from the general intake sheet and specific to the cupping treatment they are requesting. As with any spa service, therapists should always thoroughly explain the process and technique so that guests fully understand the treatment.

Cupping can be intimidating for both those in the spa industry and spa enthusiasts wishing to try the treatment. However with an open mind and careful application, cupping can be a wonderfully therapeutic experience that can be enjoyed by itself or coupled with other services.

When considering implementing the treatment in an establishment, the first step is to evaluate the needs of the spa’s clientele and determine which type of cupping method is appropriate for that group.

Shannon Mariani is the Spa Director at Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas’s Forbes Five-Star Spa. Shannon is a seasoned professional with more than 10 years of experience in the spa industry working with high-end brands such as Vdara Hotel & Spa, Spa Southern Highlands and Flamingo Spa Las Vegas.

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in the know

PERRICONE MD CB For Men Lightweight Moisturizer www.perriconemd.com

OM4MEN OM4

Well-Being Collection www.OM4men.com

ELEMIS

The Superman Gift Set www.elemis.com

MURAD

Razor Burn Rescue www.muradcanada.com

24 S p a Inc. | Fall 2 017

in the know

What Men Want

By Hermione Wilson

M

ark Smith visits about 30 spas each year across the UK, Europe, Africa, Asia, and Australia, and has been reviewing spas since 2007. He is a writer and media consultant in the beauty and spa industry, and founded the website TheSpaMan.co.uk where he writes about products, spas and treatments. We spoke to Smith about what’s new and hot in the world of men’s spa products.

What is the focus of men's spa products?

The primary focus for men’s spa products tends to be to cleanse and hydrate. Targeted men’s ranges often focus on the essentials as guys like their skin care regime simple and straightforward, with as few steps as possible. Multifunction or multipurpose products are always popular for me. For example, a moisturizer with SPF that is boosted with anti-aging ingredients, or a scrub that acts as a cleanser or gentle cleanser with particles to gently exfoliate are common on the market. An eye cream is a common addition to a men’s spa range. More advanced lines will then drill down into different skin types for oily skin, mature skin, etc., but this is rare at the moment.

What ingredients are popular with men’s spa products right now?

I have noticed elemi as an ingredient in the past year. Elemi essential oil comes from a large tropical tree from the Philippines.

The tree is closely related to frankincense and myrrh and exudes a natural yellow resin. It is only when the tree sprouts leaves that the resin is produced. The resin solidifies on contact with the air and is then distilled to produce an exotic, beautiful essential oil.

Hyaluronic acid is also an eternal favourite across skin care generally and has seen a real resurgence lately with different molecular weights available. You will always see this ingredient in men’s skin care.

What sort of scents and oils do men tend to gravitate toward?

More woody and robust essential oils like cedar wood, sandalwood and oud [also known as agarwood]. These oils also work well for men’s body care in aromatherapy ranges at the spa. You will find uplifting citrusy notes like lemon, lemongrass and orange in [men’s spa products]. Rosemary and mint are popular in body products as they are great for soothing muscle aches and pains, so are usually in body oils and fitness bath oils. Floral notes such as rose, vanilla and patchouli tend to be much less popular with guys.

Which product companies are becoming popular with men?

I have to say that Elemis offers one of the most comprehensive spa product lines designed just for men. It has more than just one moisturizer, eye cream and cleanser. Beyond that, I really rate Thalgo, Phytomer and ESPA. Refinery from Aromatherapy Associates is a whole range designed just for men and found in lots of Mandarin Oriental spas across the globe.

However, there is some anecdotal evidence that men are beginning to venture beyond the “for men” product houses and explore more high-tech and cosmeceuticals lines like Perricone MD and Murad. It’s quite natural for men to look after their skin and we have lived with the concept of the metrosexual for almost 20 years. Magazines like GQ and Men’s Health have normalized skin care and educate gents about their skin, so they know what they are looking for.

Besides skin care, what concerns do men have that spa products are addressing?

Body scrubs are popular with men as dry skin on the arms, back and legs can be an issue. Anything relating to shaving will be top of the list and there are a number of spa brands who tackle the issue of soothing skin pre- and post-shave. I think this also links into the growing popularity of the barber shop or barbers’ service being positioned in the spa setting.

So shaving and beard care products are making an appearance in the spa?

This is a definite trend I am seeing. I first saw a barber in a spa in Frankfurt, Germany, and more recently at Bovey Castle in Devon, England and the Bulgari Spa in London, England. This is growing and shows how spas are trying to reach out to a new audience. It’s very clever and can be a great way to introduce men who are not keen on spa to the benefits of a spa-like experience. Spa products do tend to include a limited range of shaving products, but some like [Aromatherapy Associate’s] Refinery and Elemis do it very well.

What trends in men’s spa products do you see coming in 2018?

I hope that we see some additional new product innovation in the men’s market. A lot of brands launch their men’s ranges and leave it at that. There is little advanced innovation. Masks have been a huge trend in 2017 and I believe we will see the launch of more masks specifically targeting men’s skin. I also think there will be more advanced anti-aging products for guys too.

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SPONSORED CONTENT

What lies beneath – Respecting the Natural Nail

By Erica Nieuwenhuis, CEO Bio Sculpture Canada

The focus of nail care should not be on the topical coating, glittery colour or fancy nail art alone. The spa industry requires a dedicated focus on taking care of the natural nail first and foremost. The approach should be to improve what the client has, rather than cover up the damage and flaws. What is the secret to healthy nails?

Every nail service should start off with the aesthetician or nail technician performing a nail plate analysis to determine what type of natural nail the client has. Are the nails weak, brittle, rigid, soft, flaky, damaged or healthy, resilient, strong, hard, healthy? Treatments should be customized based on the individual’ s specific nail needs. These treatments should be reevaluated at each salon visit since nails are prone to showing signs of aging, exposure to environmental factors, seasonal changes and fluctuations in health or nutrition.

Tips for Healthy Spa Nails:

Bio Sculpture developed a complete range of Natural Nail Treatments aimed at nourishing the natural nail. These treatments are compatible with manicure and pedicure services with the treatment product being applied directly on the natural nail as a base coat. Once the nail condition has been identified, treatments should be applied at each salon visit and can also be continued at home in between manicures.

The following treatment options are available to strengthen, condition and promote the growth of nails: Healthy, but soft nails

Executive Base

A keratin-enhancing base containing essential Amino Acids that will strengthen soft nails by compressing keratin in the natural nail.

Hard, brittle and damaged nails

Lavender Base

Lavender Essential Oil with healing properties will restore sore, damaged and peeling nails.

Soft, chipping, flaking nails

Oxy-Gain Camellia Oil fortifies and strengthens Base nails, oxygen levels in the natural nails are replenished and resistance to chipping and flaking is increased.

Arginine, hydrolyzed keratin, vitamin Protein E and lecithin are absorbed by the Base nail to create healthy, smooth and shiny nails.

Thin and dull nails

All nail types and conditions

Vitamin Dose

A Vitamin boost (B1, B2, B12, C and P) will aid in formation of keratin structure and enhance growth.

Dry nails and cuticles

Cuticle Oil

Enriched with Vitamin E, Almond, Jojoba and Avocado Oil to rehydrate dry nails and cuticles.

Bio Sculpture’s healthy nail philosophy ensures that natural nails are nourished and protected. The aim should always be to foster a long-term partnership between the client and the nail technician. The result will be a satisfied client whose nails are in the best condition possible. Choose products that are in line with a healthy nail focus.

Bio Sculpture products are free from harmful chemicals (Five-Free), Five-star Safety Rated, not tested on animals, and formulations and labeling conform to standards for cosmetics adhered to by Health Canada, the FDA and the European Union.

Bio Sculpture products are available for purchase directly from Bio Sculpture Canada, either online or by contacting a Regional Sales Representative via www.biosculpturenails.com.

science of the spa

M

s o t n e m e

of themer Sun Sum

By Isabelle Villeneuve

S

ummer has come and gone and we are now realizing that new brown spots have appeared on the parts of our bodies that were most exposed to the sun. Fortunately, there are different approaches that can help minimize them, or even make them completely disappear.

Over the course of a lifetime, several factors can influence the skin’s natural colouring and cause brown spots to appear on the face or on other areas frequently exposed to the sun, like the hands and neckline.

• Over time, the skin’s colouring system can malfunction. It can produce excess melanin which leads to the formation of brown spots, also called lentigos or age spots. These are non-raised brown spots on the face, neck, décolletage, and the backs of hands. Each lentigo is caused by a localized increase in the number of melanocytes, the cells that make melanin, due to exposure to sunlight.

• Pregnancy, oral contraceptives, hormone replacement therapy, certain photosensitising medications and probably a genetic predisposition, may be at the root of a condition called melasma, also known as ‘pregnancy mask’ or chloasma. This condition is characterized by facial pigmentation (forehead, cheeks, chin, nose) and usually occurs in women with » www. s pa inc .c a

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science of the spa darker complexions (phototype III and IV). Melasma tends to worsen in the summer and improve slightly in the winter.

• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation occurs when a lesion heals, leaving behind a flat discoloured area. It is frequently observed in people suffering from acne and can also be caused by cosmetic procedures such as dermabrasion, laser treatments and chemical peels.

Whatever their cause, brown spots tend to resist most of the remedies available on the market and, as a result, users become discouraged rather quickly. Hydroquinone is still the preferred solution. Indeed, its effectiveness has been scientifically proven. Hydroquinone inhibits the formation of melanin – the pigment responsible for the brown colouring of the skin – by acting selectively on the activity of melanocytes, melanin producing cells. It inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in the creation of melanin. Therefore, it diminishes the appearance of lentigos, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma, as well as the appearance of freckles.

Solutions

Although its use is controversial – the substance is cytotoxic – and there are questions about its safety, hydroquinone is also the most studied molecule in the category of topical lightening agents and has been doctor-recommended for 50 years now. Generally incorporated at a ratio of 5% in formulas, its side effects are very minor – causing mild irritation of the skin in some cases – and are easily controlled by doctors. When used properly, hydroquinone is safe and remains the best molecule to fight against pigmentation spots, including postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma. However, it should only be used under medical supervision. It is currently sold as an over-the-counter medicine but, as of the summer 2018, in Canada, Hydroquinone preparations will only be able to be purchased with a prescription. Some doctors also recommend a combination of tretinoin and vitamin C, but this mixture can be irritating to sensitive skin.

At the spa, the most common lightening substances used in skin preparations are vitamin C, resorcinol derivatives, kojic acid, arbutin, licorice extract, Japanese mulberry root extract, AHAs, plant extracts rich in flavonoids, and peptides. Each of these has a precise target of action on the skin and limited effectiveness. They are generally used in combinations for optimum effectiveness.

No matter the chosen solution, lightening products should be applied daily for a period of 12 to 18 weeks. Why so long? Simply because the skin has its own cycle of renewal and the melanin has already accumulated in the different layers that make up the epidermis. It will take the preparation a few days to begin curbing the melanin production process but the melanin that was already produced before this will have to continue its way through the epidermis to the surface of the skin before it can be eliminated. This process can take several weeks.

Isabelle Villeneuve is R&D Director – Head of the Valeant International Center of Excellence in Skincare. Passionate about cosmetology, she has more than 25 years of experience.

Villeneuve is recognized as an international expert in skincare.

28 S p a Inc. | Fall 2 017

for spa clients Did you know…

Natural compounds of bearberry, mulberry and madder, when hydrolyzed, generate hydroquinone. This is why these plants are found in the ingredients of some of the skin-lightening products available on the market.

Some expert advice: • Be patient and follow your routine by the letter, the results will be worth it!

• Protect yourself from the sun at all times with a SPF of 50. Don’t forget your neckline or the back of your hands.

• In the summer, avoid sun exposure between noon and 4 pm and consider adding other physical protective measures (cap, broad-brimmed hat, long-sleeved shirt, pants) if you are unable to avoid being in the sun during that period of the day.

This is the best time to deal with brown spots so get started today!

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Marine Collagen +Co-Factors Bend Skincare’s new Marine Collagen + Co-Factors supplement contains collagen peptides derived from the skin of premium grade wild cod fish, considered the most bioactive type of collagen. Among its active ingredients are vitamin C from organic acerola cherry and silicon from organic bamboo. Marine Collagen + Co-Factors is a source of an antioxidant that helps protect against free radicals, and promotes healthy skin, nails and hair. www.bendbeauty.com

The new science of skincare

This state-of-the-art pillow has been designed with a unique proprietary v-shape that is recognized by Health Canada as a Class 1 Medical Device. The enVy Pillow is made from hypo-allergenic, antimicrobial memory foam and has a wipeable, breathable, waterproof, laminated fabric cover that repels fluids and cleans easily with antibacterial wipes or solutions between clients. The pillow comes in three different designs to meet the needs of the various styles of treatment chairs and beds. www.envypillow.com

PRESS KIT 2017

OPI PRODUCTS

Love OPI, XOXO Holiday 2017 Collection OPI’s new holiday collection includes 12 new colours in classic Nail Lacquer, Long-Wear Infinite Shine and GelColor formulas. The Love OPI, XOXO features soft white and gold shimmer shades that evoke a sparkly winter wonderland, while rich amethyst, pewter, charcoal and black offer an elegant alternative to more traditional dark hues. Reds ranging from the palest pink to deep burgundy provide a festive look for fingers and toes. www.opi.com

30 S pa Inc. | Fall 2 017

SWISS LINE

Cell Shock White Brightening Diamond Serum Swiss Line’s new Brightening Diamond Serum, part of its Cell Shock White line, consists of two complementary serums that together tackle problems of uneven complexion, dark spots and blemishes, as well as refining wrinkles and fine lines. A combination of marine polymers traps the diamonds in micro-capsules that, once they touch the skin, are evenly dispersed without residue, imparting an immediate brightening effect. The second chamber contains the Pearlescent Rose Serum, which provides a fading effect on dark spots or unevenly pigmented areas. www.swissline-cosmetics.com

fresh & new BIO SCULPTURE CANADA

High Pigment Nail Art Kit Bio Sculpture’s new compact Nail Art Kit consists of eight tubes of high pigment primary colour gels and stencils, a metal plate and puffers (two round, six pointed) ideal for creating ombré looks. The kit also includes a step-by-step booklet that will guide nail technicians through the process of creating high-quality nail art. www.biosculpturenails.com

ÉMINENCE organic skin care

Marine Flower Peptide Collection Éminence’s new Marine Flower Peptide Collection works to combat signs of aging with sustainably sourced freshwater and saltwater algae. The collection contains the Smart Collagen+ Complex, which doubles collagen density to visibly lift and fill wrinkles, as well as providing a cruelty-free alternative to animal-derived collagen. www.eminenceorganics.com

ARYA ESSENTIALS

Face Oil

GM COLLINS

Mature Perfection Day Cream

GM Collin’s new Mature Perfection Day Cream is a rich anti-aging cream that addresses the concerns of mature skin, such as dryness, dullness and sagginess. The Mature Perfection Day Cream works to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and replenish and hydrate skin.

Ingredients include sirhamnose, hyaluronic acids (low and medium molecular weight), and ceramides. The Mature Perfection Day Cream is part of a new three-product collection of anti-aging skincare. www.gmcollin.com

Arya Essentials Face Oil is a potent blend of active botanical ingredients that boosts collagen production, prevents signs of aging and reduces visible wrinkles. The Face Oil serum works to improve uneven skin tone and infuse skin with a youthful glow during the cold winter months. Recommended for all skin types. www.aryaessentials.ca

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spa star people started asking me to teach them, people started asking me to motivate them and asking me if I could help them with their game.

Fareen Samji

F

areen Samji is a former pro golfer and five-time Canadian International Long Drive Challenge champion. She is passionate about teaching women how to golf and how to leverage the game of golf in a business context.

How did you get into golf?

I grew up in Kenya, in East Africa, and I was a nationally ranked tennis player, as a junior. My mom started playing golf and she thought it would be a good idea for me to start, so when I was 10 years old she took me out to the driving range, kicking and screaming, because golf was for old people and I didn’t want to play it. Mothers exaggerate, right? But I think she said I had some natural talent. I realized if I played golf then I could have Mom all to myself and I didn’t have to share her with my two brothers.

Fast forward several years and you’re now a five-time Canadian International Long Drive Challenge champion! What is that like?

I played professional golf on the tour for four years, playing golf as a job, and that was a total grind. I quit playing professional golf and then I discovered the sport of long drive. What I love about long drive is that you really just go out there and hit the ball as hard as you can. It’s a power sport, it’s an adrenaline sport, it’s high octane and it’s a ton of fun!

How did you turn your golf career into a business?

I’m an entrepreneur. When you have a talent, when you have a skill, you try to do it as much as you can because you enjoy doing it, and then opportunities just kind of come your way when you put intention out there. People started asking me to help them, 32 S p a Inc. | Fall 2 017

What is your new Smashing the Grass Ceiling program all about?

When I was teaching tons and tons of golf, I was teaching corporate women who were being left behind because all the guys in the business would go out golfing with all the bosses and the VPs and the women would say, ‘You know what, we’ll hold down the fort, we’ll get the phones. You guys go out there, no problem!’

And they do a great job, they do their jobs really well, but it’s the guys that are out there playing golf that are making the deals, closing the deals, getting the promotions, and getting the raises.

The whole idea behind Smashing the Grass Ceiling is to give women the confidence to use golf as a relationship building tool so they’re not left behind.

Do you think that there’s a stigma around women who are active and that it keeps women from getting involved in sports like this?

I think the stigma is that golf is an old boys’ sport and that women golfers are slow, women golfers don’t know how to play, that they’ll hold you up. I think there’s a lot of misogyny and a lot of preconceived notions about women in golf, so I think it scares women away. The whole point of my program is to motivate, encourage and inspire women, and to understand that that is an old philosophy and that we should take back the game and use it for our own advancement, just like the guys do. It’s about creating opportunities for ourselves.

How do you stay active?

I have two kids, so that keeps me very active! I have a 16-year-old daughter and a 13-year-old son, so they keep me on my feet. I work a lot but I also play a lot, and I sleep very well too. For me, staying active is about keeping your mind active. We don’t have cable TV in my house, so we don’t watch TV. What do you do to treat yourself?

I love travelling. My parents still live in Kenya so I have a good opportunity to go and visit them every year. I think it’s very important to be able to shut off and close everything down and shut down for as long as you can, whether it’s five minutes or 15 minutes. I meditate, I get my hair done once a week – just things I do for myself.

What’s your favourite treatment at the spa?

I love the spa! I go for a massage once every three weeks – I have to do that because it keeps my body moving. But I’d say my favourite treatment is probably facials. I’m out in the sun a lot so I kind of have to make sure that my face is being treated well, and when someone is working on your face you have to shut up and be quiet. It forces you to not talk.

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