DOTWNews November 2015 issue

November 2015

TASMANIA FOR GOURMANDS

Reykjavík

Thrills and chills in Iceland's capital

VIP AT THE MELBOURNE CUP

IRELAND ON THE TRAIL OF THE EMERALD ISLE'S LITERARY GREATS

MANILA

Asia's hip new gourmet escape

WINTER MAGIC

SUPER-CHIC PEAKS, LUXURY LODGES AND GOURMET EXTRAVAGANZAS

DOLOMITES ★ VERBIER ★ NEW ZEALAND ★ ASPEN

NEW-SEASON WATCHES

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DAZZLING JEWELS

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SUPERYACHTS

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LUXURY CARS

速

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Contents

november 2015

on the Cover

62 Chi-chi & ski Chic stays and high-octane nightlife – the Swiss ski resort of Verbier is hotter than ever

86 Literary landscapes Discover the misty, magical allure of Ireland through the Emerald Isle’s literary greats

70 Land of the lodge Spectacular landscapes, lodges and wine await the luxe adventurer in New Zealand

104 24 hours in Reykjavík Thrills, chills and glacier adventures in Iceland’s stylish capital city

78 Italy’s gourmet slopes Skiing, Tyrolean inns and winter feast-ivals in Alpine culinary hotspot, the Dolomites

106 An insider’s guide to Aspen Exclusive tips from a local on Colorado’s legendary ski town

78 Dramatic peaks and powder-covered pistes take a backseat to an exceptional epicurean scene in the Dolomites dotwnews.com november 2015

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Stay royal in the heart of Dubai Upgrade to a higher level of comfort in our Royal Suite with exceptional views and access to the Sheraton Club. Make the most of a direct connection to Mall of the Emirates with a host of entertainment facilities and a central location in Dubai.

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©2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Sheraton and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms and conditions, visit sheraton.com

Contents

contents

november 2015

In the news

32 Europe

Detox at Cheval Blanc Courchevel; New suites at No.11 Cadogan Gardens; Festive-season highlights

34 Middle East & Africa Marriott marches into South Africa; Abu Dhabi art and jazz happenings; Egypt’s first W hotel

40 Asia & Oceania What’s new in New Zealand; Rotana’s dual foray into Istanbul; Six Senses Ninh Van Bayat’s hilltop villa

48 Americas Four Seasons expands in the USA Amazon river cruising in Peru; Fairmont’s insider “F-scapes”

50 Debut Hot hotels, chic boutiques and exclusive new resorts

52 Diary This month’s pick of sporting, cultural and artistic events

54 VIP Mingle with the equestrian elite at Australia’s Melbourne Cup

56 Interview The illustrated world of Megan Hess

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spend It 128 Escapes

The best one-of-a-kind travel experiences money can buy from a foodie-themed stay in the Swiss Alps to a villa in Mustique

132 Essentials This month’s pick of accessories to stay chic on your travels

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134 Suite dreams A night at One&Only Cape Town

136 Ignition

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Road testing the 2015 Ferrari California T

140 On the road The latest from the Frankfurt Motor Show and Rolls-Royce’s new Dawn

142 Set sail Lürssen’s Kismet; VPLP Design’s Manifesto; Baltic Yacht’s Doryan

146 Out of this world Winter magic with the newest build of the ICEHOTEL in Sweden’s Jukkasjärvi

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REVEL IN LUXURY ABANDON THE EXPECTED AND SETTLE IN THE UNEXPECTED PLAY IN A TROPICAL PLAYGROUND WHERE THE ONLY LIMIT IS YOUR IMAGINATION

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Gourmet 110 Gourmet news Global culinary happenings this month

112 Taste of... Hobart Where to eat in the epicurean hotspot Down Under

116 Gourmet journey A chef’s guide to the best foodie experiences in Manila

118 Chef’s table An exclusive interview with Michelin-starred chef Hélène Darroze

122 Spirit of travel Experiencing South Korea through the country’s traditional soju liquor

124 Reservation A table at Restaurante Eleven in Lisbon, Portugal

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HoT eVeNTs, New HoTeLs ANd gLobAL jeT seTTers

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BANG FOR YOUR PUCK Learn how to cook some of the namesake chef ’s favourite dishes at CUT by wolfgang Puck, at Four seasons Hotel bahrain bay

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Luxury travel news from around the world This month’s best new hotels A guide to the top events in November VIP at the Melbourne Cup An interview with fashion illustrator Megan Hess

News iNterview

Fashionably Penned

Fashion illustrator Megan Hess followed her passion for putting pen to paper and now finds herself sketching stylish scenes around the world Interview: Laurel Munshower

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elbourne-based Megan Hess became a name on the world’s most fashionable lips when, in 2008, she illustrated Candace Bushnell’s bestselling Sex and the City. In the years since, Hess has found her always-chic illustrations in publications such as Vanity Fair, the windows of New York City’s Bergdorf Goodman and even at the bottom of a private pool in Dubai; her client list reads like a who’swho of the fashion elite, including Chanel, Dior and Cartier.

But it’s not only pretty runway creations that inspire her, and consuming the world’s mix of cultures as she jets from one stylish hub to the next plays a large role in finding inspiration – as does exploring the fascinating stories behind the world’s most celebrated designers, which she shares in her just-launched book, Coco Chanel: The Illustrated Life of a Fashion Icon.

What inspired you to get into fashion illustration as opposed to other forms of art and design?

I’ve always had a love for fashion and it was something I was most excited to draw. Not necessarily the actual clothing, but the world of fashion is something I found interesting and I thought if this territory is something I can work with, that would be my optimum. I’ve never wanted to be a fashion designer per se, but I have a love of clothing and design.

How did the idea for your third and newest book, Coco Chanel: The Illustrated Life of a Fashion Icon come about?

I love Chanel as a brand, but more importantly, I’ve always been fascinated with the story of Coco Chanel: knowing her mother died when she was very little and her father drove her to an orphanage and left her there, and to start from such humble beginnings to become the world’s most iconic fashion designer, and build an empire at a time when there were no female designers. She got rid of corsets, she chopped all her hair off, she did some amazing, iconic things for women throughout her career and I think that’s really inspiring. Even though there are lots of autobiographies written about her, I wanted to do it from the eyes of an illustrator. I wanted to illustrate her as a little girl in the convent, and when she first moved to Paris, and first set up her millinery boutique. The

journey of her life – even if you’re not massively into fashion – her story as a woman is so inspiring.

Is there a particular brand that you’d love to illustrate that you haven’t yet?

I always say – in the hope that she’ll read it and get me to do it – Vivienne Westwood. She’s so brave and original, and the fact that she’s doing it her way and remains true to how she started with the punk look is amazing.

You draw with a Monblanc pen you refer to as “Monty”. What’s special about this pen?

The pen came about because I worked on a project with Montblanc where I created four illustrations that we could auction to raise money for UNICEF. In the meeting to discuss what I would be drawing, they asked if I would be able to do this project with one of their pens, to better connect the collaboration. Used to Japanese brush pens, I was unsure that I could get the same effect, so they sent me to their bespoke programme in New York. There, they wired me up with an electronic pad and measured my writing – how I hold the pens, the level of ink, the weight – and I drew for about 40 minutes while all of that information was input into a computer. Three months later, a handcrafted pen made just for my drawing style was completed. When it arrived I was thinking, “What if I can’t draw with it? I’ll just have to pretend I do after all this effort they’ve gone through”. But as soon as I started drawing with it, it felt like an extension of my hand. That collaboration is long finished but I draw everything now with that pen.

How does travel inspire your work?

It’s not always in obvious ways, but I think travel is the biggest form of inspiration. Probably the greatest thing about the work that I do is that it’s in different countries and it means that I get to see different cultures and fashion, meet different people, try new food – and all of those things evoke new ideas. The biggest inspiration for me, in any destination, is a really local, busy, interesting coffee shop or place that I can perch myself and sketch and observe what people are wearing and how their hair is – that to me is the most inspiring thing about travel.

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News iNterview

Hess’s illustrations can also be found on home décor such as cushions and serving trays (left and centre); the artist in Paris (right)

What’s your favourite travel indulgence?

I think being in a restaurant with amazing food and a great location is my top experience. Let’s say I’m in South Beach, Miami – I would not skimp on sitting somewhere that has an amazing view, where I see the action and the atmosphere.

Whatever it costs to be there, I will pay that, rather than be somewhere that I can’t really see or feel. That’s something I won’t compromise on when travelling.

Are there any travel accessories that you never leave behind?

When I fly, I have what I think is the perfect travel bag. It’s a Louis Vuitton carry-on that has the best compartments: a front flap that has everything for your iPad and phone, a travel section where you can keep all of your travel documents, a slip for your laptop, and separate area where you can put socks and shoes and blankets and stuff. It’s the Rolls-Royce of bags. And I’m always cold on flights, so I bring my own cashmere blanket that rolls up really, really tightly and is super lightweight and warm. And an Australian balm called Lucas’ Papaw Ointment is the ultimate in keeping my skin hydrated.

What’s your favourite luxury destination?

I love L’Hotel, a little boutique hotel in Paris’s Saint Germain, in the heart of cobblestoned streets and where Oscar Wilde once lived.

Every room is completely unique and they have basement baths that are heated, almost like a Roman bath, and there are candles lit and you get a glass of champagne and it’s just amazing.

You’ve created illustrations that depict stunning architecture and interior design.

Which luxury hotel showcases your favourite aesthetic?

I really love the Palazzo Versace hotel in Australia.

Versace is very intense as a brand and look, and when it’s put together from head to toe it can be a lot – unless it’s the actual hotel. The thing that’s so amazing about it is that it’s the extreme of the brand and its look. It’s unashamedly over the top. Entering Palazzo Versace is like walking into Donatella Versace’s wardrobe and I love it; they have not held back in any way. It’s really fun and everything down to the taps are Versace. It is a true fashion hotel. I’ll be fascinated to see the Versace hotel when it opens in Dubai.

Where is your favourite destination for fashion week?

I think all of the destinations are amazing for different atmosphere and reasons but Paris is my number one. The Chanel show in Paris is probably the best of all the shows because of the elaborate lengths they go to, and so it feels like a theatre production. Some of the Paris designers are probably my favourite, but purely for the creativity

that the shows and the sets display in Paris, I think it’s my top choice.

Your scarf collection features four destination-focused pieces. Are any locales currently inspiring a new addition to the collection?

One that I haven’t brought out yet but I have designed is inspired by Rio de Janeiro’s Carnival.

I was on a plane and watching a documentary about the chaos and colour and vibrancy and I thought that is great inspiration for a scarf. So I’ve done four different “samba queens” on these four different scarves. There are so many destinations that would make for a wonderful scarf; anywhere that gives a culturally different look and feel.

Dubai and China would work very well.

Where is on your travel bucket list?

I tend to go to the same places for work, and I love those places – those are usually the fashion week cities and Dubai. But I would love to get back to Greece and see the islands. That’s somewhere that I have been but not for many years and I would love to return. Friends of mine have done this amazing thing over Christmas at the North Pole, where you can actually stay at the North Pole in an old, traditional hotel that is set up for Christmas.

I know it sounds really tacky but apparently it’s amazing and I have two little children and they would love that – I would love it!

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PISTES AND PASTA Find your epicurean high in the italian dolomites where michelin-starred chefs are showcasing the alpine face of italian cuisine to the world

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The chi-chi ski scene in Verbier exploring luxe lodges in new Zealand Gourmet adventures in the dolomites a literary journey through ireland 24 hours in reykjavík an insider’s guide to aspen

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PHOTO: Verbier St Bernard/Yves Garneau

D E S T I N AT I O N S V E R B I E R

CHI-CHI

& SKI

Along with downhill thrills, the Swiss ski resort of Verbier is an Alpine playground with glamorous stays, superlative dining and high-octane nightlife for the hedonists, writes Chadner Navarro

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The Lodge’s party room has everything required for an intimate après-ski Going off piste in Verbier offers suitably challenging terrain for the most skilled skiers (previous page)

Relax with a swim in The Lodge’s indoor pool after an exhilirating day on the slopes

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D e s t i N at i o N s V e R B i e R

Brilliant sun shines on the white mountain, ideal for a break from the pistes

“tasting menus celebrate regional flavours like saffron bisque topped with crayfish from lake geneva”

PHoto: Verbier st Bernard/Yves Garneau

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ith nearly 100 lifts, some 400 kilometres of marked trails and legendary off-piste runs like Vallon d’Arbi, Col des Gentianes and the terrifying, mogul-lined Tortin, it’s hard to think of a more enticing Alpine locale than Verbier if you’re looking to spend your days shredding down a mountain. And indeed, those who visit (affluent jet setters, royalty, celebrities) during the winter come primarily for skiing. But aside from proffering up powder nirvana for ski bums, Verbier has plenty more for leisure-andpleasure seekers.

Though Verbier is mostly chalet territory, W Hotels & Resorts unveiled its very first ski hotel on Place Blanche in late 2013. For many, the mountainside location seemed a peculiar

choice for a brand that built its name on city glamour, but W’s urbane fabulosity is a match made in heaven for the Alpine destination’s seeand-be-seen atmosphere. With interior design overseen by Dutch agency Concrete Architectural Associates, the wood-structured W Verbier has all the trappings of a cushy Alpine escape, with plenty of timbered surfaces juxtaposed with fuzzy animal hide and woollen accents to create a cosy ambiance. The glossy, red surfaces – an ode to the primary colour of the Swiss flag – along with sculptural light fixtures, avant-garde chairs and a striking mural that stretches across the walls in the lobby bar and restaurant all do their best to underscore that this a house that W built. There is no shortage of stunning chalets in Verbier, but W injects eccentricity into tradition.

Traditional, however, does not mean staid.

Richard Branson’s The Lodge, a multi-room chalet done up in contemporary style, may not have the over-the-top explosion of glitz that W cherishes, but that’s probably the only thing it’s missing. The oversized soaking tubs, sleek pinstripe-patterned armchairs, social space with a pool table, and, of course, large windows that look out to the gorgeous, snow-capped landscape offer a quieter sort of razzle-dazzle.

You’ve selected your Verbier home; now it’s time to get outside. A day on the slopes is made more memorable when you join the fray for a lunchtime piste-stop at Le Dahu (La Chaux; +41 27 778 20 00; www.ledahu.ch) at the foot of La Chaux. Along with tremendous views, the simple yet fortifying menu has everything from filling

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land of

the lodge To travel through New Zealand’s stunning South Island via its luxury lodges is to truly understand the old-meets-new-world hospitality of the Land of the Long White Cloud, writes Nick Walton

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The Botanical Suite in Otahuna Lodge is situated in the house’s original Morning Room, and includes direct access to the gardens (above); head out on nature cruises to sight rare Hector’s dolphins in Akaroa Harbour (opposite top); Otahuna, meaning “little hill among the hills” is an outstanding example of Queen Anne architecture (opposite bottom); Matakauri Lodge overlooks the tranquil waters of Lake Wakatipu (previous page)

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ravelling via New Zealand’s luxury lodges is slow travel at its very best. At each fascinating stop, guests delve into the personalities and histories of the property’s owners and hosts, kick their heels off amid lavish accommodation, sample the best of local produce, and do so against some of the country’s most stunning landscapes. It’s an increasingly popular way to travel for a new generation of travellers who, like my wife Maggie and I, are eager to get under the skin of one of the world’s most sought-after destinations, especially in the cooler months of May to October, when the South Island, decked out in vibrant autumnal colours, offers a brilliant respite from the heat of the Middle East.

Our driving holiday starts at Otahuna Lodge (224 Rhodes Rd., Tai Tapu; +64 3 329 6333; www. otahuna.co.nz) on the outskirts of Christchurch, the largest city in the South Island. A historic

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Queen Anne-style home lovingly reborn, wreathed by 12 hectares of stunning gardens and staffed by hospitality innovators, Otahuna is one of a handful of regal retreats that epitomises the Kiwi luxurylodge experience. This picture-perfect, heritagelisted mansion was bought by Americans Hall Canon and Miles Refo in 2007. With the help of Kiwi manager and executive chef Jimmy McIntyre, they have created a property that welcomes visitors from across the globe. Its five sumptuous guest rooms, replete with ancient wood, bespoke furnishings and subtle yet cutting-edge technology, are fitted with fireplaces, balconies, hidden nooks and snugs, and the intimate touches of personality that sets lodges apart from hotels.

Our Rhodes Suite, named after Sir Heaton and Jessie Rhodes who built Otahuna, not only features a spacious bedroom with roaring Victorian hearth and a balcony with views to the Southern Alps, but also an octagonal sitting room, ideal for private dinners, and a bathroom clad in all-white hues, complete with a spa bath and double shower.

But accommodation is just one element of the lodge experience; chef McIntyre is renowned for his simplistic yet elegant approach to fine dining, a philosophy that places locally sourced ingredients, including 130 varieties of vegetables, fruit and nuts from the lodge’s own gardens, front and centre. He also makes all of the lodge’s bread, chutneys and jams, offers cooking classes for guests looking to delve into the local culinary scene, and even has his own smoke and curing hut in Otahuna’s grounds.

McIntyre, with his Austrian sous chef Thomas, serves canapés and glasses of chilled Central Otago wine in the lodge’s leather-clad lounge, followed by chipotle prawns; locally caught monk fish with saffron risotto; and Canterbury duck breast with quince jus in the main dining room, a space filled with an imposing dark timber dining table that looks like it should be in a castle.

After our Otahuna stay, we continue into the deep valleys and hidden bays of the Banks Peninsula, descending down the narrow road into Pigeon Bay, home to a school house, a boat

d e s t i n at i o n s n e w z e a l a n d

“specTacular cliffTops plummeT To The mussel beds of pigeon bay far below, The farm’s black angus caTTle waTching our progress”

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ITaLy’S

GOURMET SLOPES For skiers more interested in pasta than pistes, the Dolomites deliver a first-class gourmet experience, writes Lisa Gerard-Sharp, who skis, dines and discovers her inner Heidi in Tyrolean gourmet inns

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PHoto: alta Badia/Daniel toechterle

D e s t i N at i o N s D o l o m i t e s

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he South Tyrol was once A u s t r i a n a n d , o n fi r s t i m p re s s i o n s, i t s t i l l i s.

Brunico’s kitsch Christmas market is awash with nativity scenes, carved figurines, cute cowbells and dirndls. Paired with some mulled wine and apple strudel, festive cheer is the way forward for my Dolomites ski break.

Dominating the skyscape in the Alta Badia valley are the transcendent Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage site. I’m still not convinced it’s Italy, but the scenery makes that immaterial. With their witchy pinnacles and towering spires, the Dolomites are famed for the dazzling enrosadira effect, when the dying rays of the sun bathe the jagged mountains in a rosy glow.

Alta Badia’s snow-sure resorts are stylish rather than snooty, romantic rather than ritzy. In keeping with the mellow mood, celebrity skiers tend to keep a low profile, from the Swedish royals to Prince Albert of Monaco. San Cassiano, turning peachy before my eyes, is one of Alta Badia’s most charming ski resorts with an onion-domed church, quaint chalets framed by craggy mountains and homely taverns adorned with antlers, embroidered hearts and gingham tablecloths. The Heidi quotient is high. I almost feel compelled to buy an edelweiss kerchief and stack neat log piles. Coming to my senses, I instead sip a fruity, Vernatsch red wine and chat to the head-scarfed farmer’s wife who mentions that George Clooney once popped by for cheese.

As one of the region’s A-list regulars, Clooney used to whizz around these log-piled hamlets on his trusty Harley Davidson but is now more likely to be found hiding out in St Hubertus, the gastrodome

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in the Relais & Châteaux hideaway, Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa. Sporty Norbert Niederkofler, the hotel’s Michelin-starred chef, is keen to take South Tyrolean cooking to the skiers themselves. His aim is to “cook the mountain”, with a tasting menu featuring Alpine cheeses, hay-cooked beef, smoked meats and local berries. When not in the kitchen of St Hubertus kitchen, rustling up suckling pig in juniper, the chef is on his beloved slopes.

As an eternal boy-racer, Niederkofler set up the annual gastronomy event, Chef’s Cup, which began with ski challenges issued to three local chefs.

Today, the event – marked by a series of cook-offs, ski races, charity events and gala dinners – attracts a thousand skiing chefs and has a cult following.

“It’s a chance for chefs to chat about culinary trends while fighting it out on the ski slopes instead of in the kitchen,” says Niederkofler. So, ski rage rather than Hell’s Kitchen.

Along with Niederkofler, the mountains are brimming with Michelin-starred chefs working hard to reinvent a Tyrolean gourmet scene that’s more luxe lodges and lobster ravioli than cowbells and cheese, doing away with starchy dining rooms and superior sommeliers to introduce creative Italian cuisine with a garden-to-plate philosophy.

Even breakfasts are a focal point, using the region’s yoghurt, honey, cheeses and farm-smoked meats.

A coterie of Michelin-starred chefs are also showcasing the Alpine face of Italian cuisine to the world. These talented chefs have devised festivals to lure skiers into lingering over lunch in mountain lodges in Alta Badia, and the feasting carries on well through the season. December signals the start of the Gourmet Skisafari, which matches seven Michelin-starred chefs to seven Alpine lodges.

All are asked to concoct a masterly regional dish suitable for ravenous skiers dining at altitudes of over 2,000 metres, allowing foodie skiers to whizz from one pop-up restaurant to another. The festival segues into A Taste for Skiing, which focuses on surprising food pairings presented by 14 ski lodges.

This season, the event pairs Tyrolean dishes with southern Italian wines, cleverly mixing classic southern Mediterranean recipes with Tyrolean wines. More epicurean festivities follow in February and March, when Sommeliers on the Slopes closes the season with guided wine tastings at altitude.

PHotos: san lorenzo mountain lodge/Hermann Gasser; alta Badia/nevio daz

San Lorenzo Mountain Lodge, now a luxury retreat, was once a hunting lodge (above); St Hubertus’s chef Niederkofler reaches his peak in the South Tyrol (below); a drink with a view on the terrace of Adler Mountain Lodge (opposite top); relax under the stars at Adler Mountain Lodge (opposite bottom); chefs march from hut to hut for the Alta Badia Chef’s Cup (previous page)

D e s t i n at i o n s D o l o m i t e s

“the culinary clash between italian anD germanic traDitions proDuces hearty slow FooD anD michelin-starreD Feasts”

“new yorkers place weighty value on maintaining the city’s iconic history, while consistently embracing the new”

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Skiing in the Altia Badia UNESCO World Heritage site (above); sip something toasty during a wintery pause in the South Tyrol (below left); a strawberry tart, South Tyrol style (below right)

“one thing is for certain: few party on the pistes like the italians. aprÈs-ski is in the italian dna” into Club Moritzino (Piz La Villa 154; +39 0471 847 403; www.moritzino.it) by the time I collapse over my hot chocolate. Set at the top of the Piz La Ila cable car, this legendary hut boasts the hottest après-ski and the coolest ice bar. Après-ski gets going by midafternoon, with the Ferrari flowing as freely as the dance music. Ferrari Brut, Italy’s finest sparkling

wine, is finally being recognised abroad and was even served at this year’s Emmys.

Ferrari in hand, we gaze across the vertiginous runs and rival peaks such as the Marmolada, topping 3,342 metres, rightly judged the Queen of the Dolomites. For beauty, there’s stiff competition from the peach-hued Tofane peaks, a forgotten First World War frontline, and the battleground between opposing Austrian and Italian forces. Once dusk falls, the sensibly sozzled know only the foolhardy ski down a black run after dinner, guided by the light of a snowcat.

Split personality or not, the Dolomites deliver, whether for food and wine buffs, fanatical skiers or those more interested in holing up in a luxurious abode. The South Tyrol may be Italy with an Austrian soul but it does a nice line in stylish Italian boutique hotels. For Alpine retreats, it’s a tempting choice between several pampering hideaways. The new PHOTOS: Südtirol Marketing/Alex Filz; Ortler Skiarena/Alex Filz; Alto Adige Marketing/Frieder Blickle

Before the feasting begins, I’m keen to tackle the Sella Ronda, a circuit every avid skier wants to ski at least once in their lifetime. As the loveliest, fully linked circuit within the vast Dolomiti Superski carousel, the Sella Ronda loops its way around the Sella, a majestic limestone massif. I’m soon drunk on the scenery, passing pinnacle-crowned mountains, chocolate-box villages and cutesy inns.

The Italians are fair-weather skiers and favour morning skiing followed by a leisurely lunch. Skiing comes a poor second to preening, phoning and flirting on the slopes. Endless piste bashing is for the rest. Cobalt skies melt into apricot-hued sunsets but most locals have abandoned their ski boots long before then. And one thing is for certain: few party on the pistes like the Italians. Après-ski is in the Italian DNA. While the foreigners are still out on the slopes, the Italians are sunning themselves on the terrace. My friend Raffaella has already moved

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D e s t i n at i o n s D o l o m i t e s

South Tyrol flavours served with a view A guinea fowl feast (above right)

PHotos: export organisation südtirol/Frieder Blickle; Hotel la Perla/Gustav Willeit; Vitalpina Hotels südtirol/stefano scatà

A wintry late afternoon at Adler Mountain Lodge (above, lower left) Cosy dining in La Stüa de Michil at Hotel La Perla in Corvara (above, upper left)

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“the mountains are brimming with michelin-starred chefs working hard to reinvent a tyrolean gourmet scene�

PHoto: alta Badial/daniel toechterle

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Snowshoeing in Val Sarentino/Sarntal A cosy room in Lagacio Hotel Mountain Resort (right) Bedroom in a suite at Adler Mountain Lodge (below)

pHotos: tourismusverein sarntal/laurin moser; südtirol marketing/marcel Hagan

The competing chefs in Alta Badia’s Chef’s Cup (opposite)

Adler Mountain Lodge, set in UNESCO Heritage wilderness, offers serenity, spruce chalets, a sybaritic spa and ski-in, ski-out convenience. Rosa Alpina suits both spa babes and foodies while Vigilius Mountain Resort (Monte San Vigilio; +39 0473 556 600; www.vigilius.it) is a design hotel that doubles as a secluded eyrie accessible only by cable car.

In San Cassiano, Las Vegas Lodge (Piz Sorega 15; +39 0471 840 138; www.lasvegasonline.it) is great before the last run home. Just be warned: There’s a very real possibility of being waylaid by the prospect of sledge rides, partying DJs and candlelit cuisine.

It’s a wonder how the locals can eat four-course meals and manage to ski downhill in style. Back in the Tyrolean valleys, snug, wood-panelled taverns, known as stube, await – places far more atmospheric than Teutonic bierkellers.

In Alta Badia, food is never far from mind; depending on mood, we dine like princesses or peasants. The culinary clash between Italian and Germanic traditions produces hearty slow food and Michelin-starred feasts, and just to complicate the picture even further, the region is also home to the Ladins, an ancient minority who speak a language close to Latin and cultivate robust Alpine homecooking. In the inns, we tuck into comfort food, Ladin-style, from barley soups and spinach-stuffed ravioli to venison with polenta and sauerkraut followed by apple fritters and blueberry tarts. What you might call a light supper.

From San Cassiano, it’s on to castle country, where I have a chance encounter with Reinhold Messner, arguably the greatest mountaineer of all time. On Mount Kronplatz, Messner surveys the

sweeping views from the Zillertal to the Dolomites.

“These are the mountains of my childhood,” the Alpinist says proudly, pointing across the valley, “and the Messner Mountain Museum (MMM) Corones is the final piece in my series of mountain museums.”

Designed by Zaha Hadid, the museum (on Kronplatz between the Puster and Gader valleys; +39 0471 631 264; www.messner-mountain-museum.it), which resembles a cross between a subterranean spaceship and a Bond-villain’s lair, is perched at 2,275 metres at the summit plateau of Kronplatz.

Stay Rosa alpina Hotel & spa +39 0471 8495 00 www.rosalpina.it aDleR mountain loDge +39 0471 723 000 www.adler-lodge.com The collection, highlighting the “supreme discipline of mountaineering” mirrors Messner’s world in art and stories. Most famous for making the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen, Messner celebrates his sixth mountaintop museum in South Tyrol and Belluno, and there is no disguising his pride in his homeland: “I have done 2,500 climbs in the Dolomites,” he says. “For me, they are still the most beautiful mountains in the world.”

My inner Heidi agrees. In fact, she’s already bought the dirndl.

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From the contemporary art scene, historic Bund waterfront and leafy French Concession neighbourhood, Sarah Freeman explores the many faces of Shanghai, discovering art-deco treasures and tea ceremonies along the way

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LitErAry LANDSCAPES

Sarah Freeman follows in the footsteps of two of Ireland’s literary greats, W.B. Yeats and C.S. Lewis, exploring the bucolic charms of County Sligo to the windswept beauty of Northern Ireland’s coast Words and Photography: sarah Freeman

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MY CITY

Aspen

aspen art Museum’s Ceo and director Heidi Zuckerman shares her elite ski town’s a-list activities, from expansive wine cellars and nights at the ballet to mountainous natural wonders par excellence

FIVE STARS

LOCAL CULTURE

The Little Nell is quintessentially Aspen. It presents fantastic dining all year at both Element 47 and Ajax Tavern, at the base of Aspen’s main skiing mountain.

During the spring and summer, Ajax’s patio is ideal for lunch. During the winter months I love the lounge – it’s especially cosy to sit by the fire and have snacks and drinks with friends on a snowy day.

675 E Durant Ave. +1 970 920 4600; www.thelittlenell.com

The Aspen Santa Fe Ballet always presents fantastic series, and we are extremely fortunate to have such a stellar troupe in such close proximity. Summer is perhaps the height of the full cultural experience, and I would recommend one take in the offerings by so many of our amazing community partners, like the Aspen Music Festival and School, Jazz Aspen Snowmass and Aspen Writer’s Foundation.

0245 Sage Way +1 970 925 7175; www.aspensantafeballet.com

DINE ABOUT TOWN I am pescatarian and especially fond of menus that focus on both locavore and sustainable food; a feature we focused on for the rotating weekly menu at our museum café, SO. I’m also looking forward to the opening of David Burke Kitchen [in late 2015]. Matt O’Neill, (executive chef at The Little Nell) will be designing a farm-to-table menu, which means good things are in store.

Aspen Art Museum, 637 E Hyman Ave. +1 970 925 8050; www.aspenartmuseum.org

LUXURY SHOPPING First, the Shop at the Aspen Art Museum has a brilliant mix of one-of-a-kind and rare items made by artists and designers. We make great efforts to ensure that it reflects the programmatic aspects of the museum itself and that the selections remain fresh.

The rings I wear almost daily are both from the Shop – you can find everything from a Méret Oppenheimdesigned fur ring or bracelet, to David Shrigley car air fresheners, dominos, and greeting cards. In town, I personally love Prada – especially their footwear.

Aspen Art Museum Shop: 637 E Hyman Ave. +1 970 925 8050; www.aspenartmuseum.org/shop Prada: 312 S Galena St. +1 970 925 7001; www.prada.com

HAPPY HOUR The bar at Cache Cache is always lively and fun. It has a wonderful menu and is known as a great place to people watch. It’s legendary for its 4,000-bottle wine cellar – which is somehow both huge and curated (to use the now overused but ubiquitous term).

205 S Mill St. #106 +1 970 925 3835; www.cachecache.com

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NATURAL WONDERS Our landscape is one of our best features and at arm’s length from the centre of town. I always recommend a hike or a bike ride during the warm months – I like the Hunter Creek Trail on the north-east side of town. And, of course, during the winter: skiing or snowboarding on Aspen Skiing Company’s four areas is unparalleled.

Aspen Skiing Company is comprised of: Snowmass, Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Buttermilk +1 970 923 1220; www.aspensnowmass.com

DAY TRIPPING For an urban experience, Denver is a few hours away and boasts great visual arts experiences with museums such as the Clyfford Still Museum – which, besides exhibiting the singular and iconoclastic works of its namesake, should also be noted for its building designed by architect Brad Cloepfil. For nature, I recommend heading to due west to Utah and visiting the national and state parks around Moab. The landscape there is otherworldly.

1250 Bannock St., Denver +1 720 354 4880; www.clyffordstillmuseum.org

AN EXCEPTIONAL AREA CODE Aspen is so full of opportunities, from private yoga sessions to the chance to get your nails done in your home, exclusive guided river rafting or fly-fishing experiences to mountaineering and backcountry heli-skiing adventures. We are known as a town of world-class services. If you can conceive of something you want to do, Aspen will almost undoubtedly be able to accommodate you.

Clyfford still Museum

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Fresh powder on aspen skiing Company’s mountain trails the Little nell

PHotos: Getty images; raul Garcia courtesy of Clyfford still Museum; Karl Wolfgang

aspen art Museum the aspen santa Fe Ballet

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gourmet Yo u r u lt i m at e g u i d e t o f i n e d i n i n g

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Crème de la Crème a delicate dessert at the Connaught in london, masterminded by the Veuve Cliquot World’s Best female Chef, Hélène darroze

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gourmet news from around the world dining around Hobart a chef’s foodie guide to manila the World’s Best female Chef Hélène darroze the spirit of South Korea through soju review: restaurante eleven, lisbon, Portugal

Hobart TASTE OF

Hobart – the pretty colonial town on the edge of the world in Tasmania, Australia – is thoroughly deserving of its newfound recognition as a hotspot for culinary creativity

WORDS: Georgia Rickard

Native hare with confit turnip, gooseberry, blood-sausage cream, orange, ginger and hare broth at The Source

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PHOTOS: Mona/Remi Chavin, ©MONA Munseum of Old and New

Fresh local ingredients dominate the menu at Ethos Eat Drink, which changes daily

Sp an

e ourc eS Th

HOBART IS HAVING A MOMENT. THE quirky-cool capital of Tasmania – home to oldworld colonial architecture, new-world pinot noir and arguably the world’s most reverently produced soft cheeses – might hide in the folds of picturesque Mount Wellington, at the very bottom of Tasmania (an island itself, at the bottom of Australia, virtually at the very bottom of Earth) – but isolation has its benefits. While the rest of the world might have spent the last decade discussing royal weddings and economic downturns, this little isle was quietly busy, preoccupied by all manner of other importances – or those pertaining to cheese, wine and whisky, at least.

It was only 2012 when Tasmanian distillery Sullivans Cove earned the accolade of the world’s best single malt (a frightful upset to the emperors of the Scottish distilling culture, if ever there was one), and only 2014 when local lodge Saffire Freycinet claimed the title of world’s best boutique hotel. But you don’t arrive on the global stage to such acclaim without decades of hospitable practice behind you, and if the world’s attention has only just turned southward, it is a late-coming realisation of what locals have known for a long time: Life in Tasmania is very, very good.

Today, a wander between the reclaimed wharves and Georgian warehouses dotting Hobart’s colonial streets illustrates a town revelling in its newly lauded creativity. Beautifully renovated cafés

ons and squi d-in id ribb squ kc , b ris a r ps rc e f n

m ro

mon tart w assic le ith ’s cl crè e c me ur o fr eS

he aîc

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G O U R M E T TA S T E O F

proffer carefully edited menus, which espouse artisan produce and earnestness in equal measure.

During summer you’ll observe locals milling on cobbled streets between the city’s bars, pubs and restaurants, merry on their city’s good fortune and locally produced sloe gin. The flourishing dining scene is continuously renewing itself; news of the closure of internationally acclaimed Garagistes was almost immediately consumed by the arrival of newcomers, like imaginative Franklin.

Yet one cannot admire Hobart without acknowledging what surrounds it, for it’s the rest of the Tasmania – plenty of which remains virtually untouched – that’s largely responsible for the city’s new-found reputation. Much of the wilderness that covers this island is UNESCO protected (which must explain why the air here has been certified as the world’s cleanest), and its clear ocean currents slip offshore southward, remaining free of land until they meet Chile halfway across Earth – hence the astounding abundance of treasures found here, such as abalone and lobster, and scallops so pure they can be eaten raw on the spot.

As a result you won’t find adjectives like “local” or “seasonal” on Hobart menus; such words are obsolete when that is the way of life. Rest assured that you’ll experience some of the best Tasmanian flavours on offer regardless of where you visit – the produce here is simply that good.

g o u r m e t ta s t e o f

Hobart’s best 4

four restaurants for sampling tasmania’s delectable produce fraNkliN Head chef and Franklin owner David Moyle, who relocated here from mainland Australian state, Victoria, is part of a consciously delighted group of imports who are largely responsible for Hobart’s burgeoning self-awareness as a gastronomic hub. But Moyle is not an interventionist, as is evident in his pared-back dishes, presented without gild or garnish. Such form allows diners to experience Tasmania’s gourmet heavyweights in unadulterated form, and when complemented by a quick-witted, international wine list, which spars well with the food, the overall dining experience is one that’s sincerely reliable no matter the menu (dishes are revised daily). Yet it’s his deliberate selection of lesscelebrated produce – small-batch periwinkles, line-caught giant octopus and steamed arrangements of the humble clam – that best demonstrates his considerable culinary talent, alongside his clearly ardent admiration of his surroundings. Expect unpretentious service and inventive, imaginative dishes such as calamari-chicken broth with confit tuna mayonnaise, which – like the menu’s predominantly seafood-based offerings – shouldn’t necessarily make sense, but most definitely do.

30 Argyle St.; +61 3 6234 3375; www.franklinhobart.com.au

the source The world’s attention might just now be focused on Hobart’s thriving hub as a culinary destination, but MONA – the revered Museum of Old and New Art – has been drawing eyes southward from the moment it opened. Despite the museum’s propensity for courting controversy, on-site restaurant The Source is reassuringly gimmick free. Perhaps it’s the steady hand of Parisian chef Philippe Leban – his Michelinstarred résumé and French-inspired cuisine steadily upholds an unwavering confidence in classicism, despite popular experimental trends. Retreat upstairs and you’ll find sweeping views of the landscape, and a restrained style of service that matches well with the quality of food. Dishes like scallop-infused gnocchi, at beautifully executed harmony with its complementing ponzu foam, or the textural delight of velvety lime mousse and icy, green-tea crystalline, not only illuminate Leban’s technical competency but reveal his clear admiration of Japanese flavours. The wine list is equally balanced, offering a slew of international favourites as well as some excellent premium local wines, and the overall effect is one of mindful restraint, which is arguably missing from many other Hobart establishments.

655 Main Rd.; +61 3 6277 9900; www.mona.net.au

ethos eat DriNk Tasmania’s insularity ensures that any excellent vintage or batch of outstanding produce reverberates about the island in a matter of days, delightedly echoing between industry grapevines and neighbourly gossip alike. Nowhere is this more evident that at Ethos Eat Drink, an intimate dining room located up a snug 19th-century alleyway, in a restored, 190-year-old carriageway. There is no menu offered here – just a choice between the six- or eight-course degustation, of which offerings change daily, based on whatever produce appeals to executive chef Iain Todd. Dishes like a sour green verjuice made with unripe strawberries, or the delightful surprise of smoked Angus beef and charred, puréed eggplant dotted with sunrose, are wonderfully inventive. Even more matter-of-fact additions, such as the freshly baked bread and cultured butter, are worth savouring for their elevation of the ordinary – which, like nearly everything else, is made in-house. Not every dish is exceptional, admittedly – an expected side effect of a kitchen helmed by an experimental 30-something, perhaps – but the outstanding plates make up for small missteps. In any case, here is the kitchen offering today’s most current snapshot of local produce, and you’d be hard pressed to find a more passionate chef.

100 Elizabeth St.; +61 3 6231 1165; www.ethoseatdrink.com

the glass house David Meredith and John Goodyear, the brave hoteliers behind the superb boutique hotel Islington, have showcased innovation yet again with The Glass House. Meticulously installed over the water in Hobart’s CBD, interiors are understated with discriminating details like an Hermès wallpaper from the 1890s.

The overall effect is of a traditional izakaya, with subtle undertones of an eccentric British smoking den. The food – overseen by Ikuei Arakane, of Iron Chef fame – underscores this impression. Dishes such as slow-cooked lamb belly served with a spicy hoisin glaze, or prawn and scallops fritters served with nuoc cham foam could best be described as “Japanese inspired”, such is the generous peppering of references to Tasmania’s British-colonial history. The complex drinks menu shines with sought-after Tasmanian cabernet sauvignon Domaine A, which is presented as a house wine (“We would prefer you to come here and have one nice glass of wine, instead of three glasses of average wine,” says general manager Alex Watson), as is the multi-award-winning Mon Pere Shiraz. You’ll find the aforementioned Sullivans Cove single malt pays appropriate homage to the state’s burgeoning spirit industry, and try the Retiring Gin, handmade in small batches by a retired local physician in a reworked negroni with blood orange Salerno liqueur. And don’t forget to tip your glass to the sparkling water view.

Brooke Street Pier, Franklin Wharf; +61 4 3724 5540; www.theglass.house

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spend it motoring

Fuel-efficient and eco-friendly aren’t words usually associated with a supercar, but the hardtop convertible Ferrari California t is a daily driver with an environmental halo, writes michelle Wranik-Hicks

drop red gorgeous photography: Haitham el shazly

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NUTS & BOLTS EnginE: 3.9-litre Turbo V8 powEr: 412 kW (560 cv) at 7500 rpm Max spEEd: 316 kph 0-60 tiME: 3.6 seconds C02 EMissions: 250 g/kmUp to priCE: From US$233,327

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spend it motoring

T

he “T” in California T stands for turbocharged, but there are many alternatives. Terrific. Tremendous.

Thrilling. No matter how you choose to describe Ferrari’s turbocharged Cali, one thing sets it apart from the other Prancing Horses in the stable: it’s an everyday Ferrari.

The 2015 California T is Ferrari’s latest incarnation of the California, a model that copped global criticism from Ferrari tifosi when it launched in 2008, but ended up being the biggest-selling V8 Ferrari in history. After silencing the critics with the success of its first “daily driver”, and luring a reported 70 percent of new customers, Ferrari then went on to unveil the California T last year, creating a curvy convertible GT and replacing the naturally aspirated 4.3-litre V8 engine with a smaller 3.9-litre unit enhanced by a pair of turbochargers.

Boosting the horsepower and torque wasn’t simply to placate the critics, however. The turbochargers – which blow more air into the engine, burn less fuel and emit less carbon dioxide – meet America’s strict Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) requirements. For Ferrari – known for its fast and thirsty cars – it’s one of the only ways to meet emissions laws without compromising on performance or the design that makes the cars so (incredibly) desirable.

Though spewing less toxins into the environment might not be a number one concern for supercar owners, even the wealthiest drivers have more than a passing interest in their car’s gas-guzzling tendencies. With the California T, fuel consumption has improved 15 percent making a trip to a service station less frequent, despite the car punching out a colossal 49 percent more torque in 7th gear.

Using 10.5 litres per 100 km, it gives the car the notso-glamorous title of being rather economical.

Essentially, Ferrari has managed to transform a pleasure machine into an everyday driver, which might not sound sexy, but in California T’s case, the car is exactly that.

Fitted with Ferrari’s classic accoutrements, the Cali is every inch the head turner, with a sporty grille and sculpted curves. The look, feel and heavenly smell of the stitched, highgrade leather in the cabin is a delight, with plenty of room to stow away essentials in the glove box, the signature F1 bridge or the armrest compartment, which also features USB ports. It’s all so practical; yet Ferrari, as always, manages to wrap it up in a highly desirable package, thanks to the Ferrari Styling Centre working in collaboration with historical design partner Pininfarina, a pairing that has inspired petrol heads to kiss their fingertips since 1951.

Speaking of fingertips, every conceivable function can be operated at the touch of a finger with the Human-Machine Interface. With F1 paddles within index finger reach, the push-button indicators, a manettino dial (which has three modes: Comfort, Sport and ESC Off, which turns off all stability and traction control), and windshield wipers are all fitted into the arms of the steering

“Ferrari has managed to transform a pleasure machine into an everyday driver” wheel, a good-looking circuit of black leather, red stitching and gorgeous carbon fibre. The horn buttons sit neatly beneath either thumb.

But enough about appearances. How does the thing drive? Ferrari buyers expect something fast, furious and forceful and the torquey kick of the Cali’s turbocharged engine doesn’t disappoint. Traction is superb, the car accelerating around 8.5 percent faster out of corners. Brembo’s carbon-ceramic brakes are now standard, the pad and disc revised to last “more or less” for the car’s entire life.

I’m sorry to say I was given strict instructions not to press the enticingly named “launch” button, but it could have been fun. Lots of fun – propelling the car to sprint to 100 kph in a mere 3.6 seconds flat (and on to 200 kph in 11.2 seconds). Perhaps another time?

Once you’re off, you could crank a little Andrea Bocelli to get into the mood, but there’s really only one dulcet, unfiltered Italian baritone you want to

be listening to while driving a Ferrari. Some Ferrari cognoscenti have bleated that the Cali T doesn’t rev with the same fury as a naturally aspirated Ferrari engine, but ignore the purists; the satisfying rumble well and truly inspires emotion – not to mention raises the hairs on the back of your neck.

A neck that, by the way, will be comfortable.

Ferrari spent a great deal of time crafting the T’s seats with new shapes, foams and fixed headrests integrated into the backrest. With two riding, it’s unquestionably comfy. Another two passengers could sit snugly in the rear seats, which have been reconfigured slightly to allow for more leg room, however they are best reserved for those under four feet, or as Ferrari freely admits: “two adults on shorter journeys”. Much of the boot space is taken up by a spare tyre and a Ferrari kit, though the rear seats fold down if you really must squeeze in the golf clubs.

If you want the sensation of more room simply retract the roof. The one-touch manoeuvre is a smooth transition provided the car is immobile, and it takes a meagre 14 seconds. With the roof on, it’s a quiet journey, but drive with the top down, and the California T’s soundtrack is audible in its full glory. As you accelerate, feeling your head pinned back and the wind in your hair, there’s little to complain about. Believe me, I tried, and the only grievance I could raise was that the steering wheel slightly obscured the indicator arrows on the display.

In summary, I’m a happy driver.

Red, fast and a hell of a lot of fun – it’s Ferrari to a T.

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