DOTWNews July 2015 issue

June 2015

mEgHAN mARklE

perth an inSider'S guide

A jet-set life

VIP at

dining around

royal aScot

South India colombo Sri lanka’S capital of cool

Louisville's Southern charm

SINgAPORE

Where and what to eat

The Indian

Ocean

caStaway iSlandS, creole cuiSine and culture SeychelleS + MaldiveS + MauritiuS + MozaMbique

NEW-SEASON WATCHES

♦

dazzling JEWElS

♦

SUPERYACHTS

♦

lUXURY CaRS

CONTENTS

CONTENTS

June 2015

ON THE COVER 56 Untamed Island Luxury escapism on Desroches Island in the Seychelles 66 Nature’s Bounty Dining on contemporary Creole cuisine in Mauritius 74 Place Beyond the Palms Exploring the cultural side of the Maldives 84 Tides of Change Mozambique emerges from its difficult past 94 24 hours in Colombo Wining and dining in the hip Sri Lankan capital 96 An inside guide to Perth Soaking up the best of the Western Australian city

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Indian Ocean thrills Windsurfers sailing along the aquamarine waters off Le Morne Peninsula in Mauritius – just one of the activities you can do to work up an appetite for Creole cuisine dotwnews.com June 2015

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Living the Moment in an Ocean of Bliss Dusit Thani Maldives blends graceful Thai hospitality with the unparalleled setting of the Maldives. Encircled by white sandy beaches, a stunning 360 degree house reef and a turquoise lagoon, this luxurious resort is located on Mudhdhoo Island in Baa Atoll – the Maldives’ first ever UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve.

For reservations and enquiries, please call +960 660 8888 email:resmaldives@dusit.com or contact your travel agency. Learn more at

Ocean Villa

Benjarong Deck

Dusit Thani Maldives, PO Box 2188, Mudhdhoo Island, Baa Atoll, Republic of Maldives

Spa Relaxation Area

Contents

contents

June 2015

In the news

30 Europe

Dubrovnik’s new groove; The Design Hotels’ “Originals” series; art immersion at JW Marriott in Venice

32 Middle East & Africa Four Seasons Dubai expansion; Alila’s farming project in Oman; Moroccan spa upgrade at La Mamounia

36 Asia & Oceania A new yacht for Cheval Blanc Randheli, Maldives; Macau entertainment; Ayurvedic retreat in Goa

40 Americas W Hotel Los Angeles - West Beverly Hills refurb; summer wellness in Aspen; Marriott “The Individualist” series

44 Debut Hot hotels, chic boutiques and exclusive new resorts

46 Diary This month’s pick of sporting, cultural and artistic events

48 VIP Mingle with racing royalty at Royal Ascot in the UK

50 Interview Suits actress Meghan Markle

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48

141

spend It 126 Escape

The best one-of-a-kind travel experiences money can buy, from remote high-end wilderness to a luxury train journey

130 Essentials

142

This month’s pick of accessories to stay chic on your travels

134 Suite dreams Gaucho luxury at La Bamba de Areco in Argentina

136 Ignition Keeping it classy: test driving the new and improved Mercedes-Benz CLS 500

140 On the road Meet the Black Edition Porsche Boxster and Carrera; the new Rolls-Royce Dawn; and Maserati’s first SUV

142 Set sail Perini Navi’s Perseusˆ3; Lürssen’s Orchid; and Glider Yachts Super Sport 18 (SS18)

146 Out of this world Embark on a US$ 1 million safari

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Contents

June 2015

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108

116

Gourmet 108 Taste of...South India The medley of culinary influences in India’s south

112 Restaurant news Spotlight on Amsterdam and S.Pellegrino’s Grand Gelinaz Shuffle

116 Gourmet journey A chef’s guide to the best foodie experiences in Singapore

118 Chef’s table Chef David Bull on the unstoppable rise of Austin, Texas

120 Spirit of travel A journey through Kentucky with America’s native spirit

122 Reservation A table at the two Michelin-starred La Palme d’Or in Cannes

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Let us offer you Arabian hospitality at its finest.

Let us teach you about our rich Qatari heritage.

Let us wrap you in luxury and comfort.

Let us keep a place in your heart.

Sharq Village & Spa is a novel contrast harking back to the past and offering a memorable experience for visitors seeking a destination resort with an exceptional sense of place. For reservations, call +974-4425-6666 or visit us at ritzcarlton.com/sharqvillage.

©2015 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company

news

hoT eVenTs, new hoTeLs And gLobAL JeTseTTeRs

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a hip new look In the land of nip and tuck, the w Los Angeles - west beverly hills has debuted its sophisticated new look after undergoing a Us$25 million makeover

30 44 46 48 50

Luxury travel news from around the world This month’s best new hotels A guide to June’s top events VIP at Royal Ascot in the UK Interview: Meghan Markle

News iNterview

Suits WhEn trAvEl

Actress Meghan Markle, best known for playing rachel Zane on the hit Us television show Suits, talks travel and a life growing up on set Interview: Elizabeth Wentling

A

ctress, model and UN spokesperson, Meghan Markle was born to be a jet-setter. The daughter of a travel agent, Meghan was introduced to foreign culture and cuisine from a young age.

Travelling has since turned into a full-time passion for the Suits star, who relishes exploring far-flung destinations from Rwanda to Belize.

Her jet-setting lifestyle has led her to launch lifestyle blog TheTIG.com, a hub for like-minded lovers of travel, food and fashion.

How did your acting career get started?

I grew up on the set of the TV series Married With Children. My dad was the show’s lighting director and I was there every day after school from the age of nine to 17. I really loved the environment of television and the team of the whole crew working together. I didn’t necessarily think I’d start acting but I knew I’d be in the industry in some capacity.

I would say the story of “how I got discovered” was when I was back in Los Angeles after attending Northwestern University in Chicago and working for the US Embassy. A manager had asked a friend of mine if I was an actress and she gave him a student film I had done. He called me the next day and was like, ‘You’re going to make money and I want to take ten percent – you should stay in LA for a while’. And I did. I was really fortunate. I booked my first audition and that was about 10 years ago now.

What was your first memorable travel experience?

My mother was a travel agent as I grew up, so we would go on many trips. Being in LA, Hawaii and parts of Mexico were the most accessible.

I remember being nine years old in Oaxaca, Mexico going to the Day of the Dead festival and eating mole before mole was a cool thing to eat. It’s funny because I can now see how that’s translated into my palate for travel. I think I was really fortunate – my mother always wanted to expose me to local culture.

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News iNterview

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News iNterview

You live such a jet-set lifestyle now. Is it something that happened naturally?

I feel like I would have always had the travel bug, but Suits opened so many doors for me.

I launched TheTig.com, which is my lifestyle website, last year and I do a lot of travel for that featuring luxury and boutique properties. Suits went on hiatus last November during which I had four months – a chunk of time to rest or to work on projects. In the first month alone I did a USO (United Service Organization) tour and went to seven countries in six days, including Afghanistan, and got to travel on Air Force Two – something you don’t get to do often.

Some people see the flight as the highlight of the trip. Is that true for you?

I can’t count how many flights I’ve done. My running joke now is that I don’t get to vacation but I’ve learned how to vacation in the sky.

Flights are my downtime, where I think: ‘I’m going to have a good meal and a nice glass of wine and I’m going to shut my eyes or watch some movies’. It’s really the only time I can think of where I can just turn it all off. I’m on a plane probably once a week so I can have that sliver of downtime.

And as an actor, you’re on all the time – even when you’re off camera. We’re so fortunate that fans are invested in the show, so even if I’m having a bad day I never forget that this might be their only opportunity to meet me and for them it’s really exciting, so I have to put my bad day aside and be present for them. With flying, I find that there’s that universal ‘do not disturb sign’ of putting headphones on. I find a lot of solace in my flights for sure.

Why did you start TheTig.com?

I was initially an English major – I really love to write. I was approached by a company a couple of years ago to start a lifestyle website, but it became clear early on that they just wanted use my name, throw a lot of products on there to sell and do all the writing themselves. I walked away from that; it didn’t feel organic to me. Since I had become the go-to girl for most of my friends for the best places to eat or travel, I thought: ‘Why I don’t I create a hub to share all that?’. The name was inspired by Tignanello wine which is nicknamed ‘The Tig’.

You are a UN Advocate for Women’s Leadership & Political Participation. What have you been able to experience abroad because of the UN? About two or three months ago for my learning mission I went to Rwanda, which was incredible.

At 64 percent, their government has the highest number of women in the parliamentary system

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The work that I’m doing with the UN is so grounding in an industry where it’s all First Class and hair and makeup and glam; there’s something really great about having a balance of any government in the world – it’s pretty remarkable. I got to meet with the female senators as well as women working at a grassroots level for leadership roles at Gihembe refugee camp, about two hours outside of Kigali.

It was unbelievable. The work that I’m doing with the UN is so grounding in an industry where it’s all First Class and hair and makeup and glam; there’s something really great about having a balance. I’m fortunate that I grew up in this industry so I have a level head about it, but I do think that it’s really nice to be able to have something that balances it all.

Where are some of your favourite travel destinations when you have free time?

Being an LA girl, I love the sunshine and the beach so I’m always trying to find a new destination for that. I grew up spending a lot of time in Jamaica, which I really loved, and I’ve started to explore further than that, like Palawan Island in The Philippines. I’ve been spending a lot more time in Europe, which has been fantastic. London has become a second home for me. The Jumeirah Group hosted me while I was in London for five days and their property there was just wonderful. Of course, everyone loves London and Paris, but I always like to explore something a little bit lesser known. I went to Belize and spear fished for lobster and after that adventurous leg of travel, I stayed at the

Coppola’s inland property [Blancaneaux Lodge] which is a luxury eco resort. For me, it’s always about finding that balance.

Can you tell us about a memorable luxury property that you’ve recently experienced?

I’m approached to work with a lot of hotel groups, but the synergy isn’t always there. But with Jumeirah – without question – you just fall in love with the place. I’ve never had that kind of experience where they’re anticipating every single need, from the kind of magazine you might want to read in the room to the level of comfort and luxury. I think when you travel the way I do, it’s important to have someone who’s anticipating your needs. I’ve outgrown my phase of hipster hotels where things get lost in the mix.

Now, I relish that level of treatment.

What travel destinations are high on your must-visit list?

I think I’m going to be heading to Blackberry Farm in Tennessee. It’s considered a luxury destination for foodies and they received a James Beard Award last year for their wine programme

by Andy Chavez. The biggest thing I have in the works right now is Villa Antinori [in Tuscany], the wine estate from where The Tig’s namesake comes. They also have a sister winery, called Tormaresca in Puglia, and I’d love to go. If I have a day off, I’ll probably be on a plane.

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destinations

T h e w o r l d ’ s m o s T d e s i r a b l e l o c aT i o n s

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waterside dining Food with a view at le b a ra c h o i s , a fl o at i n g restaurant at the luxury resort constance le Prince maurice in mauritius

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remote escapism in the seychelles contemporary creole cuisine in mauritius discovering the cultural side of the maldives a new dawn emerges for mozambique 24 hours in colombo an insider’s guide to Perth

d e s t i n at i o n s m a l d i v e s

the place beyond

the palms If you like piùa coladas and getting caught in the rain, then the Maldives will always be a draw, but there’s more to this island destination than meets the camera lens, writes Steven Bond

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d e s t i n at i o n s m a l d i v e s

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d e s t i n at i o n s m a l d i v e s

“The sand is as sofT as iT is pale, and accompanied by The whispering of wind Through The palms”

T Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru (previous) is a vibrant green speck within the North Malé Atoll Timber walkways and views at Angsana Velavaru (left) A closer look at the InOcean Pool Villas (above right)

he Maldives is a sprawling archipelago – a sneeze of sand, strewn southwest of India’s southern shore, two parallel chains of 26 atolls stretching like an unravelled strand of DNA. Best known for cocktails, coconuts and honeymooners snapping endless holiday selfies, it’s been a hot destination since the early 1970s, despite a published UN report from the previous decade that claimed the islands weren’t suitable to develop.

The first resort opened regardless in 1972 and hordes of visitors have since been sunning themselves on the 84 resort islands. Around 800,000 holidaymakers visit each year, boosting the islands’ economies, and triggering the evolution of the Maldives from its former status as a British Protectorate to today’s touristic powerhouse, with an emerging emphasis on sustainability. It’s astounding to consider it was only a few years ago that the archipelago was upgraded from its LDC (least developed country) status.

There’s very little as satisfying and as serene as lazing around a resort on your hard-earned holiday – and don’t let any social justice warriors

tell you otherwise. But for restless types, who aren’t honeymooning and want to don their funfilled fanny pack and go exploring, it can be a little daunting to spend more than a couple of days in an isolated paradise.

AngsAnA on the seAshore When it comes to being intentionally stranded on a desert island, there’s a fine line between “please send help” and “please send more ice for my mojito”. That line looks a little like Angsana Velavaru. The plush resort island is high end, no doubt, while maintaining that sort of ‘barefoot luxury’ that earnest Instagrammers like to cite in hashtags. And what a beach. The sand is as soft as it is pale, and accompanied by the whispering of wind through the palms.

As with other resort islands, there was nothing here previously. No infrastructure, no drinking water and not even high-speed WiFi. From the seaplane transfer all the way to the scented pillow, each and every item and amenity has been imported purely to serve your stay. That said, you don’t quite become an island overlord upon arrival.

The master is the island itself. Encircled by a coral ring’s pale blue lagoon, the island’s rich aquatic

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flora and fauna is more valuable than your drinks tab. The name “Velavaru” actually translates to “turtle island” in Sanskrit, which seems apt with the brand’s strong focus on turtle conservation.

A respect for the ecology is urged in no uncertain terms – even a basic snorkelling kit has to be approved following a PowerPoint presentation and a comprehensive form.

You and Meedhoo Keep your flippers off the delicate coral and you won’t incur the wrath of the resort’s Marine Lab team, headed by a stoic Hungarian dive master you really don’t want to cross – mainly because there’s no escape until the next seaplane passes by.

The nearest escape, if you keep your flippers on (or take a speedboat), is the nearby island of Meedhoo, home to a minuscule village, which guests can visit as part of the resort’s comprehensive optional itinerary. Just 45 metres long and barely 28 metres wide, Meedhoo exudes the same stressfree vibe, but with a charmingly rustic aesthetic.

“The people here are content,” says local guide, Falaa, a native of nearby Bandidhoo and the resort’s front office stalwart.

Around 70 percent of the 1,500 (or so) islanders

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A Banyan Tree vessel glides over the cerulean blue lagoon (above)

work in the Maldives’ chief breadwinning tourism industry; the remainder trawl, selling their fruits de mer to spin a profit.

A stroll around the island’s perimeter is comparable to a loop around the resort – about a swift 20-minute jaunt – but every alley and corner is an opportunity to stop and smell the flowers.

Literally. Trees and front yards are replete with Sea Hibiscus, breadfruit trees and sapodilla, and the fragrant foliage is as vibrant island children who curiously approach or strike a pose for you to snap.

The pacific (with a lowercase P) islanders are surprisingly unfazed by voyeuristic tourists, but that’s because not many travellers venture onshore.

Anyone with a curious itch to see the “real” Maldives shouldn’t hesitate to scratch. Island life has barely changed for decades, despite oversized satellite dishes and a towering telephone mast.

“We just watch more football now…” I’m told, which is confirmed by the presence of Manchester United and Chelsea football shirts ambling through the dirt streets.

Moments later, the island’s Tannoy system heralds an announcement. It’s not a call to prayer for either of the two tiny mosques, but news of a date shipment, (relatively) fresh from Islamic big brother, Saudi Arabia.

D e s t i n at i o n s m a l D i v e s

The Algarve

Locals lack nothing besides the trappings of modern materialism and are in no hurry to vacate their remote home. They are happy to sell fresh fruit and coconut from their garden, or accept crisp new dollar bills for groceries and snacks – a snip of the prices charged elsewhere.

Beneath the BanYan

The Oceanview Pool Villas of Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru circle the main resort island (left) Make your choice of fragranced pillow in your secluded villa hideaway (lower left) Your private cabana gazes across the short stretch of water to nearby Angsana Ihuru (below)

To add some variety to your Maldivian experience, take an easy transfer to Angsana’s “big sister” property, Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru, which offers a similar blend of CSR and sanctity. A speedboat will whisk you from Ibrahim Nasir International Airport to the resort’s jetty in about half an hour, but you shouldn’t delay booking your Royal Vabbinfaru massage in the island’s colonialstyle spa. The 90-minute treatment is sure to melt away those corporate concerns and reset the pace to “island time”.

Another place where the passing of time blurs is beneath the ocean’s surface. Even if you lack your scuba license, a simple sojourn with a snorkel offers a glimpse at an overabundance of radiant fish. The healthy coral is a solid testament to the hard work of the resort’s Marine Lab team, which has nurtured the reef for more than two decades.

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d e s t i n at i o n s m a l d i v e s

“Visit the resort’s posterior sunset Jetty, which can be conVerted into a dusk dining Venue”

Given you’re in the Maldives, there are plenty of activities on the Kaafu Atoll bolthole slanted toward romance. Whether it’s a sunset cruise, a couple’s culinary class or a dual beach massage, there’s one thing you should add to your amorous agenda.

Surprisingly, I’m not referring to the daily stingray feeding, which sees “big mama” and friends arrive at 5pm for hand feeding and an educational talk from one of the Marine Lab specialists. Rather, you should visit the resort’s posterior Sunset Jetty, which can be converted into a dusk dining venue. It’s an “off the menu” option, but if you have a sneaky word with the front office staff and are prepared to drop some dollars, it just might score you a bespoke BBQ experience as the sky fades from blue to pink and then unveils a grand starry spectacle.

Feeding time for “Big Mama” and friends takes place like clockwork (left). Enjoy the company of a palm on your private deck (top).

Sink into your seat at Banyan Tree’s Sunset Jetty as the sun sets and reveals the starry night sky (above)

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OUR HISTORY IS YOUR TOMORROW It ’s world - class comfor t with an authentically Resor t combines rich local heritage with daz zlingly mo dern amenities for the p er fec t luxurious island getaway with that unmis takeably unique touch. Your unforget table e xp erience star t s today.

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d e s t i n at i o n s m a l d i v e s

The address To decompress Before resuming the rat race, there’s no better way to get a dose of authenticity than by taking in the capital, Malé. Instead of being swarmed by tropical fish, you’ll be enveloped by a superabundance of moped commuters. The densely populated city crams in more than 100,000 locals within myriad of pastille-shaded towers and quaint, endearingly unkempt alleys.

The 5.7km perimeter island feels like a bona fide concrete jungle following a luxury resort stay, where the tallest constructs were the seashore cabanas. But here you have the National Museum, which leads you from ancient Quranic manuscripts all the way to modern “artefacts” such as decadeold digital cameras used by the local police force in the 1990s. Non-believers will have to admire

the Malé Friday Mosque from the exterior. The 17th-century holy place is accessible to Muslims only, but is a must-see, given that it was constructed almost entirely from coral stone.

A jaunt in the capital may even serve as a decompression zone to help you adjust to a normal pace of life. Like a scuba diver approaching the ocean surface too quickly, a hurried return from the Maldives will result in a malaise.

The Maldives is laden with leisure, but acquiesce to adventure beyond your beachfront cabana and you’ll find a wealth of culture. Whether you fill your Facebook feed with beach sunsets, plated barbecue fish or smiling locals, friends and family will end up resenting you regardless, but you’ll be all-the-more satiated if you embrace the elusive dynamism that this enchanting archipelago nation has to offer.

Stay angsana velavaru south nilandhe atoll (dhaalu atoll) +960 676 0028 www.angsana.com Banyan tree vaBBinfaru vaBBinfaru island north malé atoll +960 664 3147 www.banyantree.com

“The MaldiveS iS laden wiTh leiSure, buT acquieSce To advenTure To beyond your beachfronT cabana and you’ll find a wealTh of culTure”

A walkway to paradise - also known as the jetty at Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru

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S U M M E R P R O M O T I O N A L F E AT U R E

S U M M E R P R O M O T I O N A L F E AT U R E

Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa, Maldives

EXPLORE LUXURY AT HIDEAWAY BEACH RESORT & SPA

E

njoy the essence of a true luxury island escape at the newly renovated five-star Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa. Located on the crescent-shaped Dhonakulhi Island, one of the largest in the north of the Maldives, the island is characterised by its intimate ambience, set against a beautiful backdrop of coconut groves, pristine white sands and turquoise waters.

Along with wellness and sporting experiences, such as kite boarding, kayaking, wind surfing and tennis, Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa is home to the first fully-functional marina in the Maldives, due to its unique reef system. Sail out on a traditional Maldivian Dhoni or on a high-speed jet ski to one of the nearby uninhabited islands to explore the hidden wonders of the ocean.

Fitted with high-tech amenities and handcrafted coconut and teak timber furnishings, the superbly generous villas range from beachfront, garden and family residences to the new addition of 55 over-water villas that sit over the sparkling blue lagoon. Carefully

positioned amid coconut groves and lush vegetation, the villas create the impression of a floating paradise, combining tropical tones with contemporary touches and local Maldivian influences. A personalised butler service is provided to anticipate and attend to all your wishes and requests.

Spa aficionados can indulge at Hideaway Spa; a heavenly sanctuary with a selection of spa villas to laze and lull in, offering luxurious and customised treatments.

Gourmands can dine on a wide spectrum of contemporary à la carte, Teppanyaki-style cooking or destination dining. Younger guests will have the time of their lives with a kid’s club to keep the little ones amused. Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa provides the perfect backdrop for an exotic getaway. We welcome you to enjoy ‘a true hideaway’ where you can unwind, relax, rejuvenate and restore your well-being in complete privacy.

HIDEAWAY BEACH RESORT & SPA (+960) 650 15 15 sales@hideawaybeachmaldives.com www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com

d e s t i n at i o n s m o z a m b i q u e

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d e s t i n at i o n s m o z a m b i q u e

tides of

change Emerging from the shadow of its difficult past, Mozambique is a journey into the exotic, writes Tim Johnson, who explores far-flung islands and the capital Maputo, a city influenced by centuries of Indian, Arab and European traders

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d e s t i n at i o n s m o z a m b i q u e

Relax as the sun sets at White Pearl Resort (left), or spot birdlife on a sand spit in the Quirimbas Archipelago (previous page) Sprawling ocean views from the reception at White Pearl Resort (above) Even bathing is a marvellous experience that allows guests to take in the pristine surroundings (top right) Incredible ocean views wait around every corner at White Pearl Resort (lower right)

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I

n many parts of the world, they sing songs of celebration, but in Mozambique, they sing about liberation. I had only been in the country a few days, occupying myself mainly with the tasks of relaxing on the beach and scarfing down samosas. A troupe from a nearby village was playing at White Pearl Resort, which sits in the far southern corner of the country. Wearing leopard skins, seven children dance to the beat of three older d r u m m e r s. A s I wa t c h t h e m m o v e i n sync, occasionally tumbling forward in unison, one of the drummers turns to me with a smile. “We’re singing songs from the past, about how one day, Mozambique will be free.”

The group’s leader, Lorenzo Mpanza, explains that the troupe sings in Zulu and Shangaan, giving voice to songs about fun and family – and the conflicts that once besieged this coastal nation.

“In some of the songs, we’re saying, ‘Protect us from the wars in Mozambique,’” he tells me, to a backdrop of white sand and rolling waves.

D e s t i n at i o n s m o z a m b i q u e

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d e s t i n at i o n s 2 4 h o u r s

Colombo 24 hours in...

sri Lanka’s cosmopolitan capital Colombo is home to buzzy bazaars, serene sights, converted colonial hotels and smart rooftop bars Words: emma Boyle

09.00 After flying into Colombo’s Bandaranaike Airport, take a taxi to your hotel to deposit your bags.

Many of Colombo’s hotels are striking transformations of historic relics of the city’s rich colonial past. One of these is Residence by Uga Escapes, set in the 18th-century former home of Sheikh Salehboy Moosajee, a short stroll from Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo’s principle Buddhist shrine.

Surrounded by modern high rises in the heart of the city, this all-suite boutique hotel is an oasis of calm flaunting sophisticated modern interiors, some of Colombo’s biggest suites and a handsome pool. For something a little edgier, opt for Casa Colombo, a 12-suite hotel that defies all rules of conventional design.

Ensconced in a lavishly preserved 200-year-old Moorish mansion in downtown Bambalapitiya, the hotel’s custom-made retro-chic interiors and rooms are glamorously indulgent, while facilities include a muralled

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dining room (serving innovative Sri Lankan fusion cuisine) and the county’s only pink pool.

10.00 Swot up on Sri Lanka’s culture at the National Museum, located in the ritzy residential enclave Cinnamon Gardens a stone’s throw from Vihara Maha Devi Park, the city’s biggest green space. This mammoth whitewashed building is home to some of Sri Lanka’s most treasured historic possessions, such as a ninth-century Buddha statue, porcelain artefacts from the ancient former capitals of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, and even the throne of the last king of Kandy. Afterwards, make some time to explore Number 11 (+94 11 4337 335; www.geoffreybawa. com), the former home of Geoffrey Bawa Sri Lanka’s foremost architect. The four adjoining terraced houses and the perfectly preserved rooms, some edged by courtyards, bulge with Bawa’s books, artwork and architectural drawings, and offer insights into his creative mind.

12.00

“Many of ColoMbo’s hotels are striking transforMations of historiC reliCs of the City’s riCh Colonial past. Uga residenCe, set in the 18th-CentUry forMer hoMe of sheikh salehboy Moosajee, is only a short stroll froM gangaraMaya teMple, ColoMbo’s prinCiple bUddhist shrine”

Colombo offers surprisingly good retail therapy if you know where to look. The contemporary design emporium Paradise Road (+94 11 268 6043; www.paradiseroad. lk) is the go-to place for home accessories, toys and gourmet goodies while department store Odel (+94 11 462 5800; www.odel.lk) is best for souvenirs. Those in the know covet PR (+94 11 2699921; www.pr.lk), a fashion concept store selling limited clothes and jewellery by sought-after local designers. It neighbours Saskia Fernando Gallery (+94 11 7429010; www.saskiafernandogallery.com), an exhibition space for contemporary local artists. For colourful handlooms, Barefoot (+94 11 258 9305; www. barefootceylon.com) has highquality handcrafted products from tablecloths and cushions to sarongs, bags and toys.

13.30

Pause for lunch at Barefoot’s Garden Café, a frangipani-shaded

photo: getty images

d e s t i n at i o n s 2 4 h o u r s

residence by uga escapes

barefoot garden café

Stay

residence by uga escapes +94 11 233 1322 www.ugaescapes.com

casa colombo collection colombo +94 11 452 0130 www.casacolombocollection.com sky lounge

casa colombo

“Sit out on the Star-kiSSed terrace and be Serenaded by the in-houSe funk band or Shimmy to the beat of reSident djS” flagstone courtyard sprinkled with sculptures and art. Fuel up on a bowl of pasta, a salad or local curry, or simply rehydrate with an ice-cool lime soda. Another pleasant lunchspot is the restaurant at the Park Street Mews (+94 11 230 0133 www.parkstreetmews.com), a bijou cobbled alleyway within strolling distance of the Gangaramaya Temple and the National Museum. The cushy sofas, ambient lighting and relaxed atmosphere perfectly complement the continental-tropical fusion cuisine.

If you’ve time, drop into Spa Ceylon (+94 11 534 0011; www.spaceylon.com) next door for a soothing massage or a beauty treatment.

15.00

Late afternoon is the ideal time to explore the city’s hidden corners on foot on the insightful Colombo City Walk (+94 77 301 7091; www. colombocitywalks.blogspot.com) with local experts Mark and Ruvi, who will arrange to pick you up from wherever

you are in Colombo. Lasting three to four hours, these personalised potters start at the Fort, the city’s oldest enclave, and take you down roads lined with grandiose colonial edifices, into St. Peter’s Church perhaps, and to the aged clock tower on Chatham Street before moving on to The Pettah. This vibrant, multi-ethnic open-air market district, famed for being notoriously difficult to navigate, is a chaotic crush of frenetic activity.

The tour steers you down the area’s most photographic streets, each devoted to a specific trade, past quaint mosques,and to key sites including the oasis-like Dutch Period Museum, set in a striking 17th-century mansion.

18.00

In recent years Colombo has seen an emergence of rooftop bars gracing the summits of some of the city’s loftiest hotels, and some of the best views are enjoyed from the Sky Lounge of The Kingsbury Hotel (+94 11 242 1221; www.thekingsburyhotel.

com). Its position at the northern end of the Galle Face Green, a long seafront promenade, and between the high-rise towers of the city’s banking district and the great expanse of the Indian Ocean promises photographic panoramas aplenty. Grab your seat at sunset to absorb the blushing city’s nighttime illumination.

11 267 0722; www.kaemasutra.com), a contemporary Sri Lankan restaurant in Arcade – Independence Square, a shopping and dining complex. Some of the standouts include goat curry, black polos (jackfruit) curry and ambul thiya, a southern sour fish dish, best enjoyed with hunks of bread, crispy hoppers and fiery sambols.

19.30

21.30 End your night at Clique (+94

Book a table at Colombo institution The Gallery Café (+94 11 258 2162; www.paradiseroad.lk), housed in the beautifully converted former offices of Geoffrey Bawa. Tables spill from a tastefully designed monotone interior space onto a convivial courtyard and the international menu features delectable dishes such as pan-fried calves’ liver, baked crab and Sri Lankan prawn curry. Their dessert menu is unrivalled (there are more than 25 options on the menu); go for the passion fruit meringue pie or the chocolate nemesis. For local cuisine, head for Kaema Sutra (+94

76 725 4783; www.cliquecolombo.com), a slick baroque-themed venue adored by the city’s young, fun and glamorous.

The kitchen stays open until midnight, which means you can enjoy succulent sous vide steaks or sushi in the smart Supper Club restaurant before dancing the night away in the adjoining lounge bar, all without stepping outdoors. A more relaxed alternative is rooftop bar 41 Sugar (+94 11 268 2122). Sit out on the star-kissed terrace and be serenaded by their in-house funk band or shimmy to the beat of resident DJs mixing lounge, nu dance and disco.

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culinary artistry dining at la Palme d’or, the only two michelin-starred restaurant in Cannes is an art-fused experience

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GOURMET REVIEW

Culinary

Culinary artistry and poetic mastery impresses Becca Hensley as she dines at La Palme d’Or, the only two Michelin-starred restaurant in Cannes

I

won’t mince words. Chef Christian Sinicropi is a modern-day Picasso. He’s that creative, charismatic and unafraid to meld artistic disciplines.

I first met Sinicropi, who helms the only two-star Michelin restaurant in Cannes, La Palme d’Or, nine years ago, when he inherited the head chef position from his mentor, the much-awarded Christian Willier. I remember a dish shaped like a hand, comprised from unexpected combinations – cucumbers and savoury caviar caramel crème – and paired with a short, handwritten poem. At that time, I was writing a story on Picasso’s creative period spent at Vallauris, near Cannes. Sinicropi, with his intense gaze and barely contained passion, immediately made me think of the artist.

I return to La Palme d’Or in May, about a week before the Cannes Film Festival. The restaurant occupies a sleek, second floor portion of the Art Deco Hotel Martinez, overlooking the world-famous, see-and-be-seen, lounge chair-bedecked piers of La Croisette. I’m lucky to snag a table at Sunday lunch, when the restaurant is thronged with celebrities, and happily, I am seated with a view of the sea. The waiter pours me a glass of champagne and brings me a scroll. It’s not a menu, but a treatise – a philosophical explanation of the gastronomic universe of Sinicropi’s La Palme d’Or, a culinary atelier meant to awaken all the senses. “Welcome to my cornucopia of delight,” it reads.

Since my first meal with Sinicropi, he has cooked for film stars, film directors and royalty, and instituted a gourmet trend dubbed “décor dishes” – which means he personally designs, and in some cases crafts himself, the unique platters and plates. Like Picasso, Sinicropi (and his artist wife, Catherine) mould and fire the ceramics in Vallauris. A writer, ruminator, painter, sculptor, actor and chef, Sinicropi brings artistry to the kitchen. From his daily jaunts to Cannes’ Marché Forville, his menu follows the seasons, and he celebrates his partners – the farmers, gardeners, fishermen, and producers of Provence.

122 June 2015 dotwnews.com

Photo: J.Kelagopian

Atelier

As in a symphony, the courses fall into “movements” – three courses of the same ingredient prepared in three distinct ways.

“This shows the many layers of not just food, but life,” he says.

Guests can also order à la carte, choosing from one movement to the next. While perusing the list, I dip obsidian-coloured squid-ink bread into velvety, monk-made olive oil from the isle of St. Laurent. Lest I take my experience too seriously, the amuse-bouche arrives in a striped, ceramic, circus tent – the treats attached as flags to the piece of art.

Finally, I beg Sinicropi to choose for me. First, he brings me the second movement of his Dublin Bay Prawn category: purple asparagus paired with a crispy prawn, fused with a dollop of creamy local cheese.

Next, he delivers a layered dish of spider crab, served in an expressionistic ceramic crab shell. Dessert-like, it has a trio of layers: a broth, a flan and a crunchy, cookie-like bottom. But the coup de grâce might be the tender, 72-hour cooked lamb, meadow flowers and umami-awakening roasted tomatoes, which arrive in a handmade bowl set atop a plate scribbled with poetry. The finale is a simple raspberry mouse mounted on a biscuit, bursting with just-picked pizazz.

Sinicropi yearns to cause “a little explosion to your senses”.

At La Palme d’Or, he unfailingly achieves it.

The important bit WHAT: La Palme d’Or WHERE: Grand Hyatt Cannes Hôtel Martinez, 73, Boulevard de la Croisette PRICE: 78 to 178 Euros (US$87-200) for three “movements” excluding drinks TEL: +33 4 92 98 74 14 www.cannesmartinez.grand.hyatt.com

“A WRITER, RUMINATOR, PAINTER, SCULPTOR, ACTOR AND CHEF, CHRISTIAN SINICROPI BRINGS ARTISTRY TO THE KITCHEN”

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