4 minute read

The Comes Age Beer Scene

from Door County Living - Late Summer 2023

by Door County Pulse

from Door County Living - Late Summer 2023, page 82

Article from: Door County Living - Late Summer 2023

Preservation Evolution and at ...

by MATT POTHAST

The craft-beer scene may have been late in coming to Door County, but during the past five years, it has arrived with force, with five new local breweries opening their doors.

One of the main reasons why the craftbeer market is experiencing burgeoning interest is because of the growing popularity of microbreweries and craft breweries. Not only are these smaller breweries producing some of the most interesting and unusual beers in the country, but they’re also creating a new attraction for visitors and residents.

Door County is home to seven craft breweries. Although the influx of visitors during the summer and fall certainly lends to the success of local brewpubs, permanent residents have been influential in the prosperity of each one.

“I think [the success of local breweries] is the same reason you see craft breweries in the smallest of towns in Wisconsin,” said Trent Snyder, founder of Bridge Up Brewing in Sturgeon Bay.

“It’s a ‘Build it, and they will come’ kind of thing. There is such a thirst for it.”

People love building a connection to the beer and the brewer, creating a relationship that is much different from one they might have with Budweiser or Miller.

“Being able to interact with the customers and telling them your story is why I work 70 hours a week,” Snyder said. “They love to have a conversation with the person who brewed the beer. To see people enjoying our product and the space they are enjoying it in is incredibly satisfying. If I was just a guy making beer everyday, I don’t think I would be doing it anymore.”

Snyder said the addition of beer gardens has contributed to the allure of local breweries. In addition to his original taproom below Sonny’s Italian Kitchen & Pizzeria in Sturgeon Bay, Snyder opened a sprawling beer garden outside Fish Creek at The Cherry Hut. There people can quench their thirst with his brews while playing yard games, sitting around a fire or listening to live music.

One Barrel Brewing Company’s taproom in Egg Harbor, Peach Barn Farmhouse & Brewery in Sister Bay, and Sway and Door County Brewing Co. in Baileys Harbor all have expansive beer gardens as well.

One Barrel Brewing’s founder, Peter Gentry, opened his first taproom in Madison in 2012 and took its name from his process of brewing his beer one barrel at a time. It quickly became so popular that he decided to open a second location, setting his sights on Egg Harbor, where he opened a taproom and beer garden in 2019 to great success.

One Barrel’s arrival in Door County exposed residents and visitors to beers such as Trolly Red Cherry Lager, Banjo Cat Black Porter and Ninja Dust Hazy IPA. Gentry said these beers expand on a vibe that may not be evident to everyone who lives in or visits Door County.

“Door County is a creative place, and craft beer is kind of an extension of that,” he said. “I don’t know if everybody thinks of it that way. It’s not like painting a beautiful picture or anything like that, but we do get to share something we love and are passionate about.”

Visitors to Bridge Up are greeted by the flagship beers Harbors & Bays IPA, Roofed Goat American Pale Ale and Stubborn Sturgeon Hazy IPA. Although these certainly satisfy experienced craft-beer drinkers, anyone who is beginning to investigate the craft-beer options in Door County would find 1851 Zwickel Lager a great place to start.

Snyder said he has had customers come into his brewpub and ask what he has that tastes like Bud Light. He added that he appreciates that craft beers typically are associated with porters, IPAs and stouts, but they don’t have to be in any of those categories.

“I’ve always said we are a blue-collar brewery because we brew for the people of Door County,” Snyder said. “For most of the year, it’s the people who live here who buy our beer. Obviously, the visitors are a huge part of our success, but we want to let the Busch Light people and the Bud Light people understand that craft beer doesn’t have to be a triple dry hopped double IPA.”

This doesn’t mean that the local and visiting beer fanatics don’t have a vast selection of creative and tasty beers. Door County Brewing Co. has been "Keeping Wisconsin Beer’d" since 2012 with heavy hitters such as Polka King Porter. Shipwrecked Brew Pub – Door County’s original brewpub, now celebrating its 26th year of business – offers an infusion with Pumpkin Patch Ale. And newcomer Peach Barn Farmhouse & Brewery adds a wrinkle with its Highway 42 Cherry Sour. Another newcomer –Sway Brewery – offers Up Past the Treetops Witbier.

“I think the [beer quality in Door County] is on point with anything I’ve had in larger cities like Milwaukee, Minneapolis and Chicago,” Snyder said. “These are smart folks up here making beer. You get unique styles and tremendous-tasting beers.”

Neither Snyder nor Gentry see any reason why there won’t be expansion into more craft breweries in the future. National popularity – combined with a local, evolving palate for creative, smaller-batch beers – will offer opportunities for brewers to share their craft . The state of Wisconsin has added 40 breweries during the past four years and continues to grow.

“I bet you there could be between two to five new, small brewery taprooms in the next few years,” Gentry said. “I think it’s because there is demand. Also, we see lots of local people from Egg Harbor, Sister Bay and Sturgeon Bay. It’s been really refreshing to see. We make a big effort to welcome our local folks in, and they have really embraced that. I’m nothing but appreciative to everyone in the county, whether they are here for a weekend or all year-round.”

“Door County has always seemed to be a wine destination for the last few decades,” Snyder added. “I think we’re on the cusp of becoming a craftbeer destination.”