Explorer Magazine May-June 2019 Issue

MAY - JUN 2019

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?

MAGAZINE

New Zealand The Road to Rural Bliss

AIRLINE REVIEWS

ISTRIA FOR FOODIES

HAKKA HOUSE

PUBLISHER'S LETTER

W

elcome to another issue of

Explorer Magazine, the digital, environmentally

friendly travel magazine

for true world wanderers. As with every issue we’ve scoured the planet for great insights, destinations

and

experiences

for

avid

travellers to enjoy. We start in rural China, where Fujian’s Tulou Retreat is showing the

role communities can play when it comes to sustainable tourism initiatives. We follow

our taste buds to Croatia and the foodie hub of Istria for fresh seafood and gourmet

truffles, and then jet Down Under to discover new and iconic lodges in New Zealand’s

North Island. Of course, like every issue, we also have update, news and reviews from

leading airlines to hotels to emerging and established destinations. Wherever you’re headed this summer, I hope that Explorer

Magazine continues to inspire you to explore new horizons.

Safe Travels

David Leung Publisher

WORD IN PICS

Seeing is Believing Melbourne remains famous for its laneway art.

Credit: Grand Hyatt

Huset, Longyearbyen is the gateway to the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard, home to the polar bear.

Credit: Up Norway

1 Great food under the Outback skies.

Credit: Journey Beyond.

Yoga takes on new dimensions in the shadows of Mont Blanc.

Credit: Savoie Mont Blanc

3 44 Stanley, a former factory site, has become Johannesburg’s coolest spot this summer.

Summer means hiking in California’s great national parks.

Credit: Visit California

6 4 www.eXPlOReR-MaGaZINe.COM

WORD IN PICS From deserted beaches to tropical islands, here are the travel images inspiring our adventures this season.

3

6

2 Scarborough Beach is a gem for surfing.

Credit: Maine Office of Tourism

4

8

5 Rome at dusk.

Credit: Sardatur Holidays

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What’s Happening

LANGKAWI INTERNATIONAl BEACH SOCCER TOURNAMENT Langkawi, Malaysia

August 24-28, 2019

ROsKIlDE FEsTIVAl Roskilde, Denmark

June 29 – July 7, 2019

The inaugural Langkawi International Beach Soccer Tournament

Established as a small-scale gathering created by two high school

promises to be a brilliant showcase of football skills and beach

students, the Roskilde Festival, held on the Viking island of Zealand,

culture, with big names in the sport including former internationals

Denmark, is now Europe’s largest cultural event and one which draws

Roberto Carlos and Eric Cantona expected to attend. The tournament

more than 100,000 attendees annually. This year the event’s eight stages

will include teams from Spain, France, Italy, Iran, Bahrain, Australia,

will bring in more than 150 acts, including Bob Dylan and his band; Cardi

Thailand, Indonesia, and Malaysia, all of whom will be competing for a

B, Christine and the Queens, and Tears for Fears, while festival-goers

US$10,000 first prize.

can enjoy camping, skating, swimming in the lake, and watching the infamous tradition, the annual naked run. www.roskilde-festival.dk

BORYEONG MUD FEsTIVAl Boryeong, Korea

July 18-28, 2019

NAADAM FEsTIVAl

Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

July 11-15, 2019

Stepping into its 20th year, the Boryeong Mud Festival invites over a

Paying homage to Mongolia’s independence from China, Naadam, also

million travellers from around the globe to appreciate the benefits of the

known as "the three games of men", is held throughout the country

mineral-rich mud at Daecheon Beach in Boryeong, South Korea. Soak in

each summer, with the largest celebration dominating the capital city of

a giant mud bath, mud body painting, dance the afternoon away with

Ulaanbaatar. A Unesco-listed intangible cultural heritage, the traditional

looping pop and hip-hop music; and stay for the final weekend, which

festival exhibits the three games, Mongolian wrestling, equestrian

includes fireworks and a closing night party. www.mudfestival.or.kr

shows, and archery, as well as throat singing and dance performances. www.naadamfestival.com

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What’s Happening

HARI RAYA AIDIlfITRI International

August 11-15, 2019

INTI RAYMI Cusco, Peru

June 22, 2019

The worldwide religious holiday that marks the end of the holy month of

A 600-year-old Inca Empire celebration, Inti Raymi, Quechua for 'Sun

Ramadan, Hari Raya Aidilfitri, or Eid as it is known outside Malaysia, is a

Festival', honours the sun god at the Sacsayhuaman ruins in Cusco,

chance for communities to come together. Malays from across the country

Peru every year. Marking the winter solstice, which is also the Inca

will return to their family homes to celebrate the end of the holy month’s

New Year, through a series of traditional ceremonies, processions

fasting, with open homes or pergi beraya, a great chance for visitors to try

and dances, the festival includes the sacrifice of a pair of llamas to

traditional snacks, including ketupat, rice dumplings steamed in palm leaves;

give thanks to Mother Earth and to hope for a good harvest. There

kuih raya, biscuits and cakes baked for visitors, and of course Rendang, one

are also pre- and post-event open-air concerts and dance parades.

of Malaysia’s most iconic dishes. In Malaysia, Hari Raya Aidilfitri isn’t just a

www.intiraymiperu.com

Muslim celebration but one that brings together communities, neighbours and families as they break bread and pray for the year ahead.

PHUKET VEGETARIAN FEsTIVAl Phuket, Thailand

September 29 – October 7, 2019

GREEN MAN

Wales, United Kingdom

August 15-18, 2019

Celebrating the Chinese community's abstinence from meat during the

Wales' biggest music event combines good music, good times and good

ninth lunar month is believed to honour the gods and help worshippers

causes, with the beautiful backdrop of the Brecon Beacon Mountains.

retain good health. The festival is famous for its extreme festivities of

This ethically-minded family festival offers weekend camping amongst

piercing participants’ faces with swords, metal poles, wooden sticks and

Welsh forests, waterfalls and rivers, whilst putting on a line-up full of

other objects like guns and umbrellas. Other acts of self-mortification

indie and folk music names. This year’s event includes Eels, Sterolab,

are undertaken during the ten-day festival and visitors and spectators

Father John Misty and Sharon Van Etten.

are welcomed. www.phuket.com

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news

CRUISE LINE OPENS PRIVATE ISLAND IN THE BAHAMAS Unlike any private island the world has ever seen, Royal Caribbean International's highly anticipated Perfect Day at CocoCay – the first in the cruise line's new Perfect Day Island Collection of next-level private destinations around the world – is now open.

The US$250 million transformation of the line's private island in The Bahamas debuts a combination of first-of-their-kind thrills and one-of-a-kind ways to chill, that forever changes what is possible in a vacation destination. From plunging down the tallest water slide in North America and travelling up to 137 metres in the air in the Up, Up and Away helium balloon, to conquering the Caribbean's largest wave pool, thrill seekers can find plenty of ways to put their courage to the test. For those looking to relax, Perfect Day features the Caribbean's largest freshwater pool, Oasis Lagoon; and pristine, white sand beaches with crystal-clear tropical water, so guests of all ages can create their perfect beach day – no matter what that may look like.

ODE TO GIN A new gin school and a contemporary boutique apartment hotel has opened in the English town of Hull, offering ginophiles an up-close-and-personal distilling experience. Go back to the classroom for a very different education experience by creating your very own blend of gin at Hull's Hotham's Gin School, before walking back to a designer apartment at the city's The Hideout - with your new bottle of personalised gin in hand, of course.

Following its UK City of Culture success, Hull is not only seeing major regeneration and a big boost in visitors, but also the creation of a thriving local food and drink scene.

For a gin experience to remember, the Gin School session includes a chat with a distiller over a glass of Hotham's Gin and Tonic, as well as a chance to try their gin range, before you head over to the Botanicals Bench to create your own recipe with the help of the experts before distilling it… while enjoying a ginbased cocktail. Finally, you'll bottle, name and label your unique creation, leaving the School safe in the knowledge that, when you finish enjoying it, you can buy another bottle, or even have it later recreated by the expert distillers and delivered straight to your door.

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news

NEW TRAIN JOURNEY FOR AUSTRALIA A new train is set to launch onto Australian tracks late this year, linking Adelaide and Brisbane for 16 departures in its much-anticipated inaugural season. The new Great Southern train will explore the incredible landscapes and experiences across Australia’s diverse south-eastern corner with the option of a three-day northbound itinerary or a four-day southbound itinerary. It will be the newest addition to the internationally-regarded suite of great Australian rail journeys, which includes The Ghan (Adelaide-Darwin) and Indian Pacific (Sydney-Perth). Comprising 28 carriages and two locomotives, Great Southern will accommodate up to 214 guests per journey. On-board accommodation will include the option of Gold Single and Gold Twin cabins, as well as the more exclusive Platinum cabins. Exceptional food and wine and world-class hospitality will be at the heart of the Great Southern experience, along with many opportunities to explore beyond the tracks. The two-night, threeday journey from Adelaide to Brisbane features opportunities to step off the train to experience the spectacular Grampians National Park, the nation’s capital Canberra, and the stunning northern New South Wales coast. The four-day southbound journey will include an incredible beachside dining experience in northern NSW, an immersive day in the Hunter Valley and Newcastle region, and will also provide the opportunity to take in Victoria’s iconic Twelve Apostles. Great Southern’s maiden travel season will extend from December 6 through to January 27, 2020.

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news

A NEW ROMA RETREAT NH Hotel Group is set to open its sixth property in Rome this summer, the boutique-style NH Collection Fori Imperiali. The upper-upscale property will be located within a stone's throw of the city's most famous historical sites, including the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, Spanish Steps, Castel Sant'Angelo and the Vatican. Built in a magnificent palazzo decorated in nineteenthcentury style, within one of the most important archaeological sites in the world, the hotel will be infused with the hallmark elegance and

NEW BLUE TRAIN EXPERIENCES

sophistication of the NH Collection range. The NH

In 2019 South Africa's legendary Blue Train reinvented

which will be suites) decorated in a contemporary

its classic Cape Town/Pretoria journey, extending it to

and luxurious style, with most offering direct views

a two-night “slow travel” experience. Now the train

over some of Rome's most prized archaeological

company is giving its Hoedspruit safari departures

and architectural treasures. The boutique hotel will

a complete makeover for 2020 – making it a round-

also feature a rooftop bar on a terrace stretching

trip including sunrise and sunset Big 5 game drives, a

almost 300sqm, from which visitors can admire

boma dinner under the stars and even some traditional

the Roman Forum and the Vittorio Emanuele II

cultural dancing. The train will now offer its safari

Monument, while enjoying a curated range of

departure as a return round-trip to the Kruger that will

cocktails and paired bites. The establishment will

depart Pretoria in the morning of day 1 and arrive at

also offer a bar & breakfast area and an exclusive

the Kruger National Park early the next morning for

fitness room.

a full day guided safari including sunrise and sunset game drives. The train will then depart at 10pm to head back to Pretoria, arriving around noon on day 3. After boarding, guests will enjoy a five-course gourmet lunch, followed by high tea and then dinner before heading off to bed to be lulled to sleep by the gentle rocking of the train. The next morning it's an early start as the train arrives at Kruger's Numbi Gate at 5am. Safari vehicles with guides will be waiting to take guests off on a sunrise game drive, including an incredible bush breakfast at an exclusive, unfenced location inside the iconic Kruger Park. Guests return to the train for a decadent five-course lunch around noon and a rest/ freshen up. At 4pm guests head out on safari again, this time in a private 11,0000-hectare concession finishing off with a spectacular boma dinner under the stars at Nkambeni Safari Camp, complete with cultural dancing.

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Collection Fori Imperiali will have 42 rooms (9 of

news ADRIATIC WELLNESS The new Ikador Luxury Boutique Hotel & Spa in Croatia has unveiled its signature wellness enclave, Ikalia Spa, created by international spa consultants Illyria Wellness. Through wellness treatments, Ikalia Spa lures seekers into an enchanting journey of remembrance, tapping into legends and echoes of antiquity that still ripple in the waters of Ika. The new spa sources artisanal natural ingredients like 100 percent pure Baltic amber powder, local olive crush, organic distilled plant oils, and premium plant-based skin care featuring Croatian spring water, to create contemporary and effective treatments. Highlights from the new spa menu include the 50-minute Perfect Sounds: Tuning Ceremony in 432 Hz, a sound therapy ceremony designed to stimulate deep listening and attune your energy to the patterns of nature; the

110-minute Ancient Amber Journey, which

features an enlivening exfoliation with pure Baltic amber powder and a fragrant amber bath; and the 140-minute Worship of Ika, a devotional foot ritual, neroli-scented bath and 24K Golden Body Massage.

NEW JEWEL ON THE MEKONG The Uniworld Boutique River Cruising Collection is set to launch its newest luxury vessel, Super Ship Mekong Jewel, on one of Asia’s most important rivers. The S.S. Mekong Jewel, which will feature two dining venues, a swimming pool and all-suite accommodations, sets sail in January 2020 on 13-day itineraries that will take guests from Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap, with visits to Phnom Penh, Angkor Wat and more. Cruisers can expect a newly-built vessel catering to just 68 guests, with al fresco dining on the upper deck, more space than other Uniworld ships, and one of the highest staff-to-guest ratios on the river.

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Airlines

GATEWAY TO CENTRAL ASIA Nick Walton revisits one of his favourite airlines on a red-eye flight from Kazakhstan to Thailand.

Background

The Seat

Kazakhstan’s national carrier, Air Astana is the little airline that

My previous international experiences on Air Astana had

could. A coveted Skytrax four-star airline, Air Astana regularly

always been on the airline’s A320 and 757 fleets, and first

thrills guests with levels of service rarely seen today, even on

impressions of the 767 cabin were one of space, elegance and

the market leaders.

privacy, especially when it became apparent that I was sharing

Check-in/The Lounge

the 30-seat strong cabin with only a handful of passengers.

The cabin, which is lit with indigo mood lighting, features

Check-in at Almaty International Airport was a painless

seats in a 1-2-1 configuration, with window seats featuring

process but due to an odd disagreement between the airline

staggered armrests, meaning if you’re a window seat lover

and the operators of the airport’s sole international departure

like me you’ll want to get one of the seats with the armrest

lounge (which Air Astana business passengers have access to

on the aisle side.

but which charges for virtually everything) we set up shop at one of the cafes situated in the main departure hall. If you

My seat, 1K, on the starboard side, featured a large

have time on your hands, take a look through the surprisingly

entertainment screen, a wide armrest to the left, a small

good duty-free store nearby.

pouch for little travel essentials, a reading lamp, and controls

Boarding

for the seat position and entertainment system. There’s also easily accessed USB and AC ports at shoulder level, as

I’ve departed from Almaty a number of times and in many

well as a headphones jack. Although a pair of headphones

instances, it’s been a chaotic boarding process, especially when

was provided, I opted to use my own Bose QuietComfort 35

you need to take a bus out to your aircraft. Fortunately, boarding

IIs. Unlike the 757 products, the 767 features a true lie-flat

the Boeing 767-300ER, one of the last of the Everett factory line,

seat, which is ideal for the 7-hour flight from Almaty, around

was also painless, with an air bridge priority line giving business

the Himalayas to Bangkok, although I could have done with

class passengers a quick escape from the crowds.

another inch or two at shoulder level when in bed mode.

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Airlines Dining Before take-off crew offered glasses of sparkling wine and fruit juice, and even came back to refill my glass as we prepared for departure – something that’s far rarer than you’d expect in the business class cabins of the major players. A beaming cabin attendant offered me an amenity (Air Astana take their kits very seriously) packed with essentials like a toothbrush and toothpaste, an eye shade and comb, socks and earplugs, moisturising products

by Payot and, always handy but often forgotten, a pen. She also asked if I would prefer dinner served immediately after takeoff or if I would like to wait and have it later in the flight. As this was a late evening departure, I decided to get cracking so I could get some sleep before arriving in Thailand.

My pre-dinner drink – a Kazakh Snow Queen vodka and soda – as well as a choice of nuts and a fragrant hot towel, was served by the purser, Yedil, who introduced himself to each guest and offered to cater light and temperature levels (another first).

Dinner this evening began with an appetizer of lemon, garlic and sesame seed tiger prawns on betel leaf with salmon roe, hoisin and fresh lime; and a lettuce leaf salad with tomato salsa, fresh basil and avocado. The prawns were perfectly cooked and suitably zesty and were followed by a butternut pumpkin and coconut soup with paprika-garlic croutons, a great blend of east and west.

A choice of mains included Escabeche chicken with thyme, asparagus, polenta brulee and an orange jus; grilled beef tenderloin with confit turmeric potato, gai lan Asian greens and a demi-glace sauce; seabass with a creamy chu chee curry sauce, steamed jasmine rice and char-grilled zucchini; and coriander egg noodles with a mild laksa curry sauce, soya beans, zucchini, sweet pumpkin, fried tofu and dried onions. The beef was a great dish, tender and well-proportioned, without being too heavy.

I decided to skip the offered cheese plate and pandan, mango and coconut gateaux in lieu of some shut-eye. After several hours of deep sleep, I returned from the bathroom to a double espresso (how did you know!) and immigration forms for Thailand, perfectly timed for our descent.

Service Of all the things Air Astana gets right – and there are a lot of them – service is the most obvious one. Despite being a relatively small carrier, service levels are consistently excellent, in business class and economy (based on our numerous flights in both) and even with our late departure time from Almaty, the crew were upbeat, professional, patient, charming, and elegantly presented in their pressed grey uniforms. In fact, with so few passengers in business class, service was more akin to what you would find on a private jet, with dinner served quickly and efficiently after takeoff (I really don’t understand airlines that operate redeye flights only to take hours to serve what is usually an average meal), and breakfast served quietly and equally efficiently 90 minutes out from Bangkok. Evidently, the airline has spent a lot of time and money on service and its efforts are consistently paying off.

Entertainment The IFE system on Air Astana is another surprise; the collection of films and television shows is quite extensive, and the system was easy to navigate. I loved the flight path maps, which showed our progress as we hugged the expansive Himalayas south and then east.

Summary As with other flights we have reviewed, Air Astana has shown what a small airline is capable of, with a winning combination of hardware and software that’s punctuated with world-class service and true Kazakh hospitality.

Fly Air Astana from Bangkok-Almaty return in Business Class from US$3,375 per person. www.airastana.com

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Community

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Community

Hakka HOUSE

Off the typical tourist track, in the Chinese town of Zhangzhou, the Tulou Retreat is a well-kept secret. Converted into a boutique hotel, traditional 600-year-old structures have been given a new lease on life in an effort to preserve the Hakka community’s timeless culture. By Grace Brewer

S

ituated within the rustic village of Taxia, and surrounded by beautiful mountains, Tulou Retreat is a local cultural success story. Dedicated to drawing guests into the Hakka way of life through a range of local cultural experiences,

guests are transported back to a simpler time, where family and community were everything.

The Hakka, a branch of Han Chinese people originally from the Huanghe River Valley, migrated and settled in the Guangdong and Fujian provinces of China. Here the Hakka constructed the Tulou, circular compounds where extended families would live, secure and communal. Despite many families moving further

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Community

abroad, to Southeast Asia and beyond, many still send money back to China to help preserve the legacy of their culture.

Housed within one of the original Tulou compounds, Tulou Retreat is part boutique hotel and part community initiative and is centred around building awareness while preserving the Hakka way of life.

“Tulou is quite special,” says Amy Sun, director of product development at Tsingpu Travel, which operates the retreat.

“When the retreat was designed two years ago, we tried our best to keep the original structure and highlight the best features of the buildings, using local construction materials to reflect the local culture and spirit of Hakka people. We spent over a year signing contracts with the local residents to rebuild the five original earth buildings for the retreat.”

Located on a hillside in Nangjing County, the five restored earth buildings now house 24 luxury guest rooms, complete with traditional original wooden floors and vaulted ceilings. “An S-shape river splits the village into two, with two round Hakka houses on each side creating a symbol of yin and yang,” says Sun. However, much more than just a chic house of slumber, the retreat is also an active cultural centre, maintaining Hakka traditions,

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Community with more than 20 local experts employed to provide

Guests at Tulou have the opportunity to experience

authentic experiences to hotel guests.

the traditional lifestyle of the Hakka through a curated collection of authentic experiences offered through

The hotel has had a significant impact on the local

local guides. Over 20 authentic experiences are on offer,

economy, helping reduce urbanisation in the village

allowing visitors to learn the interesting Hakka culture

while also bolstering awareness of the Hakka culture.

through a myriad of activities, such as classes with local

“Besides increasing local employment, we work with

craftsmen, and tours through Taxia with village elders

external travel companies and invest a lot of time in

explaining the village’s Feng Shui and its ancient history.

social media to attract more and more attention, not only for the retreat itself, but to promote local resources, local

“We hope that our clients will have the chance to

culture and authentic living,” says CEO Xueshan Yang, who

experience real Hakka life, rather than a guided tour,”

was one of the visionaries behind the project. “Cultural

says Sun. “Whether they are following a local farmer,

wares and locally made food are also incorporated into

hunting for bamboo shoots, or picking tea leaves for local

the overall experience, all in the hope of developing our

tea makers, we hope to show our client a China they've

local economy.”

never seen before.”

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Foodie Foray

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Foodie Foray

Flavours Of Land & Sea From delectable seafood to prized truffles from medieval forests, nature has dealt Istria a bountiful hand, discovers

He Peiwen.

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Foodie Foray

I

t is known as the black diamond, the pride

The exceptional white truffle is in season between

and joy of Istria. A precious gourmet gem

September and January, while different varieties of

found in the dark, fairytale forests of Motovun

black truffle can be enjoyed throughout the year. If

and Buzet, the truffle is impossible to miss

you somehow managed to not partake in a truffle

when you’re on the peninsula. Whether it’s

foodgasm during your time there, you can also bring

in a country inn or Michelin-starred restaurant,

them home in the form of oil, butter and sauces or

you’re going to find truffles in Istria – they’re on

preserved in salty water or olive oil.

your handmade pasta, served alongside your steak, dished out with fish or prawns, generously used in

When it comes to Istrian olive oil, we’re talking about

scrambled eggs, or even gracing desserts like ice

some of the best in the world. Olive groves are part

cream or chocolate cake.

of the hinterland’s fetching landscape and nestled

amid the rolling hills are small, independent family

Truffles have increasingly become a drawcard for the

farms such as Ipša that are superstar producers

diamond-shaped peninsula which juts into the azure

on the olive oil world stage. A tour of the Olive Oil

Adriatic. However, unlike in the premium truffle

Roads in north-western Istria will take you to lush

destinations of Italy, here in Croatia, truffles come

olive groves and cool cellars where these incredible

sans the snobbery – they are just another excellent

oils are made. A word of caution though: it will be

ingredient in a destination packed with fresh,

impossible to buy olive oil off a supermarket shelf

inspiring produce. Even so, Istria is fast becoming

after that experience.

a truffle destination in its own right – for decades Istrian truffles have been sold in Italy as Alba truffles

To feast the Istrian way is to dig into mouthwatering

but today local producers are taking pride in their

dishes at a local tavern. Wash down Istrian

own coveted finds, and are serving truffles, as well

prosciutto or traditionally dry-cured ham, succulent

as world-class seafood and timeless comfort dishes

sausages seasoned with homemade wine, as well

to intrepid foodie travellers.

as cold pancetta pork rounds with local wines like

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Foodie Foray the ubiquitous Malvasia white or Teran, a red that is not going to win awards except in the character department. Then, dig into tasty staples like freshly handmade gnocchi served with meat stew, tubular pasta called fuži that is indigenous to Istria and ombolo pork cutlets typically served with tangy sauerkraut.

In spring, look out for the reed-thin wild asparagus, which has an aromatic flavour and a hint of bitterness. Also unique to Istria is the boskarin, a white or grey long-horned cattle that produces meat best relished as carpaccio, steak or with fuži pasta.

Hearty meat-based fare is the way of life in Central Europe. Towards the coast, however, you’ll find that the Istrian peninsula is just as incredible for its seafood. Always start with a platter of tiny Adriatic squid if you can. Grilled or deep-fried and drizzled with a small amount of lemon, you will find in each mouthful of these creatures the delicate flavour of the sea. Then there are the scallops of Novigrad, which are revered for their sweetness, a result of them growing in a mixed body of salty sea water and fresh river water. These are scallops worth enjoying raw.

To fully appreciate the catch of the day, ask for crabs, mussels and scampi to be prepared buzarastyle. This ancient method uses just olive oil, garlic, parsley and wine to preserve freshness and the original flavours of the seafood. In Istria, eating is a humbling experience. To taste what is on offer is to be reminded of nature’s exuberance and how we benefit from its abundance.

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New Zealand

The Road to Rural Bliss Nick Walton encounters five very

different takes on the New Zealand lodge during a luxury road trip of the North Island.

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New Zealand

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New Zealand

G

Treetops Lodge &

its diverse game and stunning setting, it’s also become a

luxury lodges, takes some serious faith in

Chilean chef; access to world-class produce, including

one’s GPS. After a three-hour drive from

estate venison, quail, rabbit, wild pig and trout; and a

Auckland, I follow the purple line on the

series of unique foodie adventures that range from Estate-

etting to

Estate, one of New Zealand’s original

screen intently as the route descends deeper and deeper

culinary destination in its own right, with an innovative

to-Plate safaris to Maori Food Trails.

into rural bliss, leaving the highway for a gravel track that bobs and weaves between undulating hills. Eventually, just

I’m no hunter I confess, but that doesn’t stop me on my

when I think I’ve come the wrong way, I’m greeted by a sign

first night at the lodge, from enjoying the sika (one of six

and a tree-lined laneway that beckons me just a little further.

deer species on the estate) loins with raspberries and indigenous kawakawa, a basil-like herb foraged from the

This is the experience many visitors to New Zealand are

forest, served by Chef Philippe and matched with Hawkes

looking for; to be removed from the rat race, to a place that’s

Bay wines by Dutch manager Pieter on my first night.

as serene as it is bucolic; remote, but without sacrificing the creature comforts. Located on its own expansive working

Accommodation at Treetops is rustic yet inviting. A

farm outside Rotorua, in the centre of New Zealand’s North

pioneer of environmentally-managed design, the lodge

Island, Treetops Lodge & Estate ticks all those boxes and

offers a variety of accommodation styles, including the

more. It’s also the first stop on my New Zealand road trip

recently-added Lodge Wing, a four-room enclave housed

as I sample four leading New Zealand lodges, each distinct

in the main lodge building that’s ideally suited for families

from the next.

and friends travelling together; and a clutch of secluded cottage-style villas that each boast two suites. My suite

Treetops is the story of the traditional New Zealand lodge;

boasts custom furniture; fireplaces that keep the evening

created by passionate naturalist John Sax, and built initially

chill at bay; a king-sized bed dressed in high thread count

as a big stag hunting lodge, today many Treetops guests

linens; a voluminous bathroom with jacuzzi bath; and

would rather pick up a knife and fork than a rifle. While the

dramatic native forest views. If you listen carefully, you’ll

property still seduces hunters from across the globe with

hear the roar of resident red stags as dawn breaks.

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New Zealand

From Treetops it’s an easy hour’s drive south through

refined, modern space features a full kitchen, lavish

mist-wreathed farmland to the banks of Lake Taupo, New

furnishings, and a patio overlooking an inviting par

Zealand’s largest. I trace my way around the lake, world-

three.

renowned for its trout fishing, until I reach the sleepy settlement of Kinloch and one of the country’s newest lodge sensations, The

Lodge at Kinloch.

I emerge from these comfy confines, first to tackle the golf course, which follows the sometimes-challenging terrain of a former sheep farm, before joining other

Another creation of John Sax, The Lodge at Kinloch marries

guests for cocktail hour in the main lodge’s Great

luxury accommodation and sublime dining with a coveted

Room, where manager Ken McTague offers aperitifs

new golf course by Jack Nicklaus. Modern, imposing and

beside a roaring fireplace.

ambitious, The Kinloch Club straddles a low range of mountains and offers a contemporary take on the New

The luxurious, eclectic and tactile interiors of lodge

Zealand lodge experience for golfers and non-golfers like.

guru Virginia Fisher are unmistakable here, and include

New arrivals weave their way through manicured fairways as they ascend to the main lodge building; built from local schist stone and inspired by Kinloch Castle in Scotland (albeit with a very contemporary take on that timeless icon) the lodge was designed by New Zealand architect Andrew Patterson and boasts sun-kissed internal courtyards, elegantly-appointed lounges and dining rooms, and panoramic lake and links views.

I’m able to drive my hire car right to the door of my onebedroom villa, which, dressed in polished oak floors, handmade rugs, Egyptian linens and floor-to-ceiling French doors, has a distinctly residential feel about it. The

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New Zealand

to the ranks of security cameras which guard the entrance.

Understated and yet determinably luxurious,

Helena Bay, which opened in late 2016 after

eight years of development and with a price tag of US$35 million, is the creation of a media-shy Russian steel billionaire, who selected the lodge’s namesake bay as his own little slice of kiwi heaven. Located on three kilometres of pristine coastline, complete with private beaches, forested walking paths, and its own 215-hectare working farm, Helena Bay accommodates a maximum of ten guests at a time, making it the latest in a series of new properties that cater to travellers looking to book out entire estates. Each of the lodge’s ocean-facing suites plush banquettes, cowhide, goat skins and burnt wood

feature double-height ceilings, cavernous, mosaic-

floorings. Beyond, the dining room is an airy, elegant

lined bathrooms, Christian Fischbacher robes, Hefel

space dedicated, where possible, to organic estate-to-

of Austria linens, and private patios. The main lodge

plate cuisine prepared by executive chef Jean-Michel

building wreaths a 25-metre infinity pool, and boasts

that ranges from grilled Karitani crayfish with Beluga

a gym and intimate spa, lounges and libraries, and

lentils and star anise jus; to wild venison dusted in

an extensive modern art collection.

endemic harore and horopito.

As the only guest in residence I get the star From the mirror-like waters of Taupo I fly north to

treatment. Happy hour starts when a young kiwi

Whangarei, gateway to one of New Zealand’s most

waitress, who has returned home from working

spectacular regions, Northland, to continue my road

aboard superyachts to take up a role at the lodge,

trip. Again, I’m forced to rely on my GPS as I leave the

arrives, resplendent in a tuxedo, and presents a

highway in my wake and descend the narrow, winding

perfectly made martini before inviting me to dine in

Russell Road east, towards the Pacific. So elusive is New

an intimate book-lined snug, complete with roaring

Zealand’s newest ‘super lodge’ that I drive straight past

fire. Service is refined but also intuitive – I can’t see

its gates before backtracking and announcing myself

staff until

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New Zealand

I need them, which gives Helena Bay the residential feel its owner envisioned. Of course, there’s plenty to keep you occupied between lavish meals, from farm tours with estate manager John and his trusty blue heeler, to helicopter flights, kayaking, beach picnics at the newly-opened private pavilion, and diving on the acclaimed Poor Knights Islands. There’s also a tennis court, secluded beaches on which to wander, and orchards and gardens to tour with executive chef Michele Martino, who has brought the Michelin-starred cuisine of chef Ernesto Iaccarino’s acclaimed southern Italy restaurant Don Alfonso 1890 to New Zealand.

From Helena Bay I place my faith in Lady GPS once again and forge north, for one of my personal favourite lodges in the country,

Kauri Cliffs.

One of three lodges created by Tiger Fund

founder Julian Robertson (the other two being Hawke’s Bay’s Cape Kidnappers and Queenstown’s Matakauri), Kauri Cliffs, his first, redefined New Zealand’s lodge scene; wreathing a golf course by David Harman that’s listed #39 in the world and which hugs dramatic sea cliffs, the lodge crowns a 6,500-acre working sheep station in the Bay of Islands, certainly one of New Zealand’s most breathtakingly beautiful locales.

Despite being almost two decades old, the lodge at Kauri Cliffs seems timeless and infinitely graceful. Arriving guests are greeted by captivating sea views as they wind their way across the estate MAY- JUNE 2019 ISSUE

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New Zealand to reach The Lodge which features just 22 guest suites, each of which boasts sublime interiors my Virginia Fisher, spacious bathrooms, and east-facing balconies, and which is in turn sequestered in native forest.

I managed to hit the links as the sun begins to descend towards the Pacific, pausing on the 15th hole to soak in the panorama of rural bliss, infinite ocean, crashing waves and manicured greens. The colours of this spectacular landscape burst to life as day comes to an end, and I greet the inky night over predinner drinks on the lodge’s deep-set terrace. Unlike some of the lodges, Kauri Cliffs maintains a sense of formality (so don’t forget a sports coat) which pairs perfectly with crisp, intelligent service from a United Nations staff, and the delectable cuisine of executive chef Barry Frith, which champions food miles and local producers.

For those post-round aches, Kauri Cliffs is also home to an intimate spa nestled on the cusp of an ancient Totara forest that features four treatment rooms and a range of bespoke rituals. Alternatively, take to the skies for an exhilarating coastal helicopter flight (many guests also combine a tour with helicopter transfers from Whangarei or Auckland) or a picnic at the estate’s best kept secret, Pink Beach, a heavenly strip of white sand under a canopy of red flowering pohutukawa trees.

For the last stop on my luxury road trip of New Zealand’s North Island I scoot south to Whangarei Heads, another corner of the region that’s rarely visited by tourist throngs. My route left cosmopolitan Whangarei behind and traces its way around the city’s harbour before climbing over the towering headlands that shelter the port from the Pacific Ocean.

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New Zealand The Glasshouse is the newest addition to the Ara Roa Accommodation family and offers one lucky couple about as much privacy as they could hope for. Located at the tip of a privately-owned peninsula,

The

Glasshouse

features

staggering ocean views, a glass-encased living area and master bedroom, an expansive sun deck with wood burning fireplace, a covered al fresco dining area, and one of the most breathtaking bathrooms, I’ve seen (if you don’t mind the occasional walk in the dark when nature calls), secluded at the end of a garden trail, complete with a shower that opens to the elements.

The Glasshouse is more than just a respite – there’s everything you need to enjoy your stay, from a fullyequipped kitchen and chef on call, to an internetconnected sound system, lavish furnishings, and high speed Wi-Fi. Fly in by helicopter or park your hire car at the front door, and disappear from the face of the earth, if only for a day or two.

Of course, there is also plenty for the active to do, from fishing, hiking and swimming from the estate’s own pier, to exploring some of Northland’s most spectacular beaches. The Glasshouse can be booked as a standalone or matched with the peninsula’s modern three-bedroom Te Whara house when travelling as a group.

Cathay Pacific connects New Zealand with Asia using its state-of-the-art Airbus A350 aircraft. www.cathaypacific.com Treetops Lodge & Estate, from US$1,390 per night, twin share; www. treetops.co.nz The Lodge at Kinloch, from US$820 per night, twin share; www.thekinlochclub.com Kauri Cliffs, from US$1,086 per night, twin share; https://www.robertsonlodges.com/ the-lodges/kauri-cliffs Helena Bay, from US$2,090 per night, twin share; https://helenabay.com The Glasshouse, from US$670 per night, twin share; http://araroa.nz

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Travel Essentials

When Size Matters Save weight and maintain performance with the pint-sized RX0 II action camera from Sony.

T

here’s small, and then there’s

lens has a shortened minimum focusing distance

the RX0 II, Sony’s newest premium

of 20cm, making it perfect for selfies or table-top

ultra-compact camera, and the

photos.

world’s smallest and lightest.

The new RX0 II offers internal

Made for shooters who don’t want to fuss around

4K recording, an up to 180-degree and down

with expensive and fragile camera systems, Sony

to 90-degree tiltable LCD screen that works

says the RX0 II is ‘worry-free’. Measuring just

underwater, and new image stabilisation solutions

59mm x 40.5mm x 35mm and weighing just 132g,

meaning you can shoot on the run.

the RX0 II is pocket friendly, inconspicuous and perfect for documenting life’s little adventures.

The newest addition to Sony’s highly popular

Expect high-quality 4k video with reduced moiré

compact camera line-up, the RX0 is waterproof,

and jaggies that can easily be sent to social media

dustproof, shockproof, and crushproof. At the

channels thanks to the Sony Imaging Edge mobile

heart of the tiny camera is a 1.0-type stacked

app. You can also film in slow motion at 1,000fps,

15.3-megapixel Exmor RS CMOS image sensor

while up to 5 RX0 II cameras can be controlled

and an advanced BIONZ X image processing

wirelessly using the Sony app.

engine that offer enhanced colour reproduction, including beautiful skin tones. This power packed

You’ll also get great stills thanks to an upgraded

combination has been optimised to deliver

Eye AF system, an anti-distortion shutter with a

lightning fast performance and exquisite image

speed of up to 1/32,000 sec. and a burst rate of up

quality for both stills and movie shooting across a

to 16 fps, while the optional ‘Soft Skin Effect’ can

wide sensitivity range of ISO 80-12800. In addition,

be applied to cover minor blemishes and wrinkles

the ZEISS Tessar T* 24mm F4.0 fixed wide-angle

when taking portraits of selfies.

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Travel Essentials

The new Transporter Carry-Ons from Osprey are a traveller’s dream come true.

O

sprey Packs, a leader in creating top-quality, high-performance packs to comfortably and efficiently carry gear, expands Transporter, its successful series of rugged, TPU double-coated nylon duffels with the

introduction of carry-on sized bags and wheeled luggage built to withstand the rigors of travel and inclement weather.

The durable Transporter Carry-On backpack can be divided into 1/3 and 2/3 pockets thanks to a main zip, allowing the backpack to open fully flat for easy packing. External zip access makes reaching essentials a breeze, while a rear panel offers access to a padded laptop sleeve that caters to computers up to 17-innches in size. There’s also two zippered mesh interior pockets for easy organization; a front panel organizer pocket with plenty of room for items like magazines, pens and passports; and both a pass-through sleeve on back panel that allows the bag to slip over wheeled luggage handles, and an over the shoulder carry strap as well as a deployable backpack harness on the 44L Carry-on.

A wheeled version features a light and durable high-clearance Osprey HighRoad LT chassis; an easy to pack side-opening main compartment; a zippered pocket on the back panel for ID card and extra storage space for magazines or shoes; compression panels in the main compartment for easy packing; and A hidden RFID security pocket sized for wallet/passport inside laptop sleeve.

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Travel Essentials

Shades of Sound How about stylish sunglasses that also allow you to bring your favourite tunes on your adventures?

S

ound specialists Bose’s ground-breaking Frames, which combine the protection and style of premium sunglasses with the functionality and performance of wireless headphones, is the perfect travel essential for adventurers on the move. Frames take micro-acoustics

and voice control to an entirely new level, debuting the future of mobile sound in the tiniest, thinnest, most lightweight Bose system ever. With a proprietary open-ear design, Frames can stream music and information, take and make calls, and access virtual assistants — while keeping playlists, entertainment, and conversations private.

Bose Frames come in two timeless styles — square and angled, or round and slightly smaller. Both block up to 99% of UVA/UVB rays and feature uniformly tinted lenses and distinct accents — including gold-plated steel hinges and charging pins. They’re scratch and shatter resistant and weigh a mere 45 grams — standard for the category. Each element is smooth, modern, and minimal. And they are shaped, fit, and feel like the world’s most iconic eyewear.

But these are no ordinary sunglasses. Bose Frames function like truly wireless headphones — with engineering that crushes the limitations of size-to-performance for personal listening. A miniscule, wafer-thin acoustic package is set seamlessly in each arm’s interior — rather than an earbud, or attached component — to produce discreet, jawdropping sound for the user, and no one else. For touch and voice control, an ultra-small microphone and multi-function button are embedded on the right temple for power and pairing, Siri and Google Assistant, calls and commands, or to pause and skip songs. The Bose Connect app provides additional features now, and software updates for new features in the future — like Bose AR.

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