Reiseführer Wachau-English

Wachau World Heritage Site Tips, information and special features for your stay in one of Europe’s most beautiful river valleys

MIT UNTERSTÜTZUNG VON LAND UND EUROPÄISCHER UNION Europäischer Landwirtschaftsfonds für die Entwicklung des ländlichen Raums: Hier investiert Europa in die ländlichen Gebiete.

www.welterbesteig.at | www.wachau.at

The Wachau World Heritage Site Tourism Gateway to Lower Austria The Wachau is one of the best-known and most picturesque natural and cultural landscapes in the world. Each year our Wachau World Heritage Site attracts thousands of tourists from all over the world to Lower Austria. In fact in 2009 it was selected ‘Best Historic Destination in the World’ from 109 historic destinations by specialised journalists in the National Geographic – with a record points total! Consequently this unique river landscape is an advertisement for tourism in our state. This is because the Wachau offers visitors a wealth of interesting highlights throughout Lower Austria, worth seeing and waiting to be discovered.

Anyone impressed by the spiritual impact and artistic significance of the abbeys at Melk and Göttweig will surely be equally fascinated by those at Altenburg, Heiligenkreuz, Herzogenburg, Klosterneuburg, Seitenstetten or Zwettl. Anyone wandering through the Roman town of Mautern, following in the footsteps of St. Severin, should definitely make their way along the former boundary to Petronell to see the much visited reconstructions of the once powerful Roman camp of Carnuntum. It is also not far from here to the splendid Baroque castles of Marchfeld: primarily Schloss Hof, the summer residence of Prince Eugene, where the extensive gardens have been restored in accordance with historical plans. Walkers who have been on the Welterbesteig Wachau (Wachau World Heritage Trail) and the Jauerling-Runde (Jauerling Circuit) should not miss out on the wonderful trails in the neighbouring Nibelungengau, the Waldviertel, the Vienna Woods or in the foothills of the Alps. Anyone who has been seduced by the fruits of the Wachau apricotgrowing region should not miss out on the excellent produce of the other localities of Lower Austria. Similarly, lovers of the select Wachau wines should be sure to seek out the other quality wines in the state. And finally, the hospitality in the high quality partnerships operating in the Wachau is in tune with the quality consciousness that is a hallmark of the region, which you can expect to find in every other tourist region in Lower Austria as well.

In collaboration with the 13 municipalities of the Wachau, the federal state of Lower Austria has laid the foundations for turning the Wachau into a top class, modern tourist region. The Wachau2010 plus initiative has seen new life breathed into numerous tourist sites, as well as investment in infrastructure and services. The key concern for the project managers involved in this was to carry out every activity in harmony with and careful consideration for people and nature, ensuring that the authentic character of the Wachau is retained for the visitor.

This folder is intended to present the many sights and numerous cultural and culinary choices in the Wachau for you and give you an idea of how you can discover the Wachau without the use of a car – either on foot or using the new mobility concept.

In this respect, as Governor of Lower Austria I would like to wish you a pleasant, eventful yet relaxing stay in the Wachau – and give you a warm welcome to Lower Austria!

Governor of Lower Austria Dr. Erwin Pröll

World.Culture.Heritage.

This brochure will be your special guide through the Wachau World Heritage Site. Besides information on well-known locations, you will find a number of background stories. You will also learn interesting facts on endearing, unusual peculiarities.

A marvellous region awaits you, rich in places that will encourage you to linger and find out something new. Four new themed routes will take you through vibrant towns and villages, and through vineyards to historic buildings and cultural treasures. Whether your are travelling on foot, by bike or E-bike or by boat, fascinating views will open out on every side, with enchanting vistas onto landscapes that delight both heart and soul.

The Wachau is rich in places that will tempt you to try culinary delights. In the wine taverns, country inns and exquisite restaurants, you can enjoy regional delicacies and world-famous wines from the Wachau.

The internationally renowned cultural programme also promises to tempt you.

The range extends from major cultural and theatrical festivals to culinary events and authentic folk festivals. Furthermore the museums of the Wachau delight thousands of visitors every year with their displays.

The Wachau has been a World Heritage Site since 2000. The mark of recognition acknowledges a cultural landscape where people settled thousands of years ago and have been living in harmony with nature, tied to it in a very special way.

You can find out more about this in the new “Welterbezentrum” (World Heritage Centre), with an information post in Krems/Stein, and at the information centres along the Danube.

Have fun exploring the Wachau!

Information & advice: Donau Niederösterreich Wachau-Nibelungengau-Kremstal Regional Office 3620 Spitz | Schlossgasse 3 Tel +43 (0) 2713/300 60-60 | Fax Ext. 30 | Email urlaub@donau.com www.wachau.at | www.welterbesteig.at

Contents 4 Krems an der Donau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Wachau apricots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Dürnstein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 The Wachau and its wines . . . . . . . 13 Weißenkirchen in der Wachau . .14 Spitz an der Donau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Mühldorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Wachau delicacies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Maria Laach am Jauerling . . . . . . . 24 Aggsbach Markt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 General map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Emmersdorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Melk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Melk Abbey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Schönbühel-Aggsbach . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Bergern im Dunkelsteinerwald 38 Rossatz-Arnsdorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Mautern an der Donau . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Wachau traditional dress . . . . . . . 44 The joy of getting out and about 45 Wachau World Heritage Trail .... 45+48 Göttweig Abbey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Getting around without a car . . . 48 Good neighbours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 The Danube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Around the Wachau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Reading tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Best of Wachau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Recommended events . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Wachau themed routes . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Wachau themed routes The extraordinary cultural landscape of the Wachau is a real treasure cradled in the tourist region of Lower Austria. In order to connect the various sights to one another in the best possible way, the federal state of Lower Austria has invested a great deal in the construction of four new themed routes.

Each of the routes sheds light on the Wachau from a different perspective.

Each is a very special journey of discovery to well-known destinations and local secrets. There is a route for first-time visitors, one for connoisseurs, a third for those interested in art and cultural history and one for lovers of modern art. The routes have memorable names: Wunder Weg, Wonne Weg, Weiter Weg and Wilder Weg. Which route do I personally recommend? Ideally following one after the other!

Yours Dr. Petra Bohuslav Provincial Minister for Economy, Tourism and Sport

Wunder Weg Wachau Krems/Stein: Page 7 • Wachau apricots: Page 9 • Dürnstein: Page 11 • Spitzer Graben: Page 18, 21 • Jauerling: Page 25 Venus of Willendorf/Venusium: Page 27 Melk Abbey: Page 35

Communities Krems • Dürnstein • Spitz • Mühldorf Maria Laach • Aggsbach Markt • Melk Rossatz-Arnsdorf

They are the stars of the Wachau, known far beyond its boundaries. From the historical jewels of Krems and Stein via the picture book location of Dürnstein, you pass through the picturesque Spitzer Graben up to the panoramic view from the Jauerling. The Jauerling is the highest point along the entire Danube. A visit to the place where the Venus of Willendorf was found is as highly recommended as a sample of real Wachau apricots. But a visit to the wonderful Melk Abbey is a particular highlight among all of these.

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

5

Wonne Weg Wachau

Visual treats and culinary delights at every turn; a boat trip on the Brandner family’s MS Austria and a ride along historical stretches of the more than 100-year-old Wachau railway; the Roman and traditional costume museum in Mautern; the Navigation Museum in Spitz and the display of works by Wachau artists in the Teisenhoferhof in Weißenkirchen – these will all give you an idea of the timeless beauty of the culture and the landscape. Wine tasting at the Domäne Wachau cooperative in Dürnstein can, after a short ferry crossing, be combined with a walk through the Floodplain forests and vineyards in Rührsdorf and Rossatz. And finally you can enjoy the wonderful view from the ruins of Aggstein Castle.

Boat travel: Page 8 • Domäne Wachau: Page 12 • Teisenhoferhof: Page 15 • From slope to slope: Page 15 • Spitz Castle garden: Page 19 • Navigation Museum: Page 19 • Wachau railway: Page 31 • Ruins of Aggstein Castle: Page 37 • Through forests and gardens: Page 41 • Romans and golden bonnets: Page 43 • Apricot culture: Page 47

Communities: Krems • Dürnstein • Weißenkirchen Spitz • Schönbühel-Aggsbach Emmersdorf • Rossatz-Arnsdorf Mautern • Göttweig Abbey

Wilder Weg Wachau

The present and future of a World Heritage Site: the starting point is the Kunstmeile Krems with its flagship Kunsthalle and Caricature Museum; another focus is a picnic site designed by a young designer at the Domäne Wachau cooperative and the Richard the Lionheart Trail in Dürnstein. Then a switch to the other bank via the ferries at Dürnstein, Weißenkirchen or Spitz, a stroll around the redesigned Spitzer Lände (landing), avante garde art in the apricot orchard in Mühldorf and notions of the future from the ‘Wachau Laboratory’ at Melk Abbey.

Kunstmeile Krems: Page 8 • Richard the Lionheart: Page 11 • Wachau ferries at: Dürnstein Page 11, Weißenkirchen Page 15 and Spitz Page 19 and Exhibition in the Navigation Museum Page 19 • Wachau Weinblick: Page 11 • Spitzer Lände: Page 19 Structure & organisation/Kausl: Page 21 Wachau Laboratory: Page 35

Communities: Krems • Dürnstein • Spitz • Mühldorf Weißenkirchen • Melk • Rossatz-Arnsdorf

Weiter Weg Wachau

Churches and abbeys – at the root of many cultural treasures: from St. Severin in the vineyards of Mautern, Göttweig Abbey and the wonderful harvesting yards and other sights in Weißenkirchen, to the Carthusian land of Aggsbach Dorf and Melk Abbey – the history of the region is closely tied to belief. The Wachau is also part of the Way of St. James and features numerous other pilgrimage destinations: Maria Langegg, Schönbühel Monastery, Gossam Castle chapel, Maria Laach, the calvary in Mühldorf or St. Johann im Mauerthale.

Under the title “Kirchen am Fluss” (Churches on the River), Catholic sacred buildings can be discovered in every community in the Wachau.

There is more information from Easter 2012 at: www.kirchen-am-fluss.at

Harvesting yards: Page 16 • Protestantism in the Wachau: Page 33 • Kirchen am Fluss/ exhibition: Page 33 • Melk Abbey park: Page 35 Aggsbach Carthusian land: Page 37 • Pilgrimages in the Wachau: Maria Langegg Page 39, Schönbühel Monastery Page 39, St. Johann Page 41, Gossam Castle chapel Page 31, Maria Laach Page 25, Unterranna calvary Page 21 St. Severin: Page 43 • Göttweig Abbey: Page 47

Communities: Krems • Dürnstein • Weißenkirchen • Spitz Mühldorf • Maria Laach • Aggsbach Markt Emmersdorf • Melk • SchönbühelAggsbach • Rossatz-Arnsdorf • Bergern Mautern • Göttweig Abbey • Melk Abbey

6

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Krems an der Donau

The twin cities of Krems-Stein are a dynamic centre of culture and university life. In the old towns, which are part of the Wachau UNESCO World Heritage Site, you can wander through the cobbled streets and discover numerous cultural treasures. Unmissable in Krems Parish Church – the ‘Cathedral of the Wachau’ – are the five ceiling frescoes created by the famous ‘Kremser Schmidt’ in the 18th century. The oldest sacred building in Krems still used as a church is the late Gothic Piarist Church set on a hilltop. It is considered the ‘little sister’ of the Cathedral of St Stephen in Vienna.

Tourist information 3500 Krems, Utzstraße 1 Tel +43 (0) 2732 82676 Email willkommen@krems-tourismus.at www.krems.at | www.krems.info 3504 Krems/Stein, Welterbe-Platz 1 Tel +43 (0) 2732 75146 Email krems@donau.com

The museumkrems is today located in the Dominican Church, with displays including the ‘Fanny of Galgenberg’ (Venus of Galgenberg). At some 32,000 years old, she is currently considered to be the oldest work of art in Austria.

Notable frescoes grace the Gozzoburg. Gozzo, the town magistrate, once inhabited this early Gothic town palace. Another landmark in Krems is the Steiner Tor, the only one of the four town gates remaining.

To the east of the old town, the ‘Sandgrube 13 wein.sinn’ wine experience provides an insight into the history and present of wine culture. The route from Krems to the old town of Stein runs via the Kunstmeile Krems, where the Kunsthalle Krems, which stages modern art displays of international note, is found. The Kunstmeile also contains Austria’s only Caricature Museum, the Forum Frohner and the Klangraum Krems. Krems is also the venue for wellknown festivals, such as ‘Glatt und Verkehrt’, ‘Imago Dei’ and the avant garde ‘Donaufestival’.

Tips for your enjoyment Haus der Regionen Get to know one another, break down barriers: the Haus der Regionen – Volkskultur Europa (House of the Regions – European Folk Culture) on ‘Donaulände‘ in Krems-Stein is a meeting place for regional folk culture, featuring music, dance, literature, folk art, culinary specialities and the ‘Galerie der Regionen’, an exclusive craft shop. Tel +43 (0) 2732 85015 www.volkskulturnoe.at/vkeuropa/

Weingut Stadt Krems

Winzer Krems

One of the oldest wine producers in Austria and Europe, with a history going back 550 years.

‘Sandgrube 13 – weinsinn’ wine experience – a interesting journey into the fascination for wine.

Tel +43 (0) 2732 85511 www.sandgrube13.at www.winzerkrems.at

Tel +43 (0) 2732 80144 www.weingutstadtkrems.at

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

7

The old towns of Krems and Stein The old town of Krems reclines elegantly on the hillside, whereas Stein lies directly on the river. The prosperity of the former river port of Stein is still in strong evidence today: richly adorned portals, bays and architectural treasures such as the Göttweigerhof, the Minorite Church and the parish church. Anyone coming up from the Danube will walk across the Rathausplatz to the Johannes Nepomuk Memorial and the Baroque town hall, along the Steiner Landstraße, past the Kunsthalle Krems, the Caricature Museum and the Und Monastery – to the Steiner Tor. The only one of the four town gates remaining in Krems, it is adorned with inscriptions and emblems. The historic centre of Krems begins here with the Obere and Untere Landstraße, which has been the central axis of the town since the Middle Ages. A short circuit takes you to the Gozzoburg, the churches and the town hall from the 16th century, to the Göglhaus on the Täglicher Markt, the Simandlbrunnen, where a wine festival is held in June every year, and on to the Dominican Church.

Useful information Kremser Schmidt

Kirchen am Fluss Krems and Stein are a treasure chest of sacral architecture. Mostly built on medieval foundations, the churches display ambitious Gothic elegance in places, such as the Piarist Church and the Hospital Church (Bürgerspitalkirche), or Baroque paintwork such as the Krems Parish Church of St. Vitus.

The Dominican Church has retained much from the Romanesque and Gothic periods, despite profanation. It hosts the museumkrems and the Zeit Kunst Niederösterreich State Gallery. One secret is the early Gothic sacral chamber of the Göttweigerhofkapelle in Stein, the key to which is available in the tourist office in the Krems-Stein River Navigation centre (Schifffahrtszentrum). The Baroque Parish Church of St Nicholas in Stein is also not to be missed. Another tip is the early Gothic Chapel of St Matthew. The chapel belongs to the Förthof vintners.

Martin Johann Schmidt, known as ‘Kremser Schmidt’, is without doubt the only Baroque painter of international repute to come from Lower Austria. Paintings by the artist, who was born in 1718 in Grafenwörth near Krems, are distinguished by light and dark paintwork, rich in mood. Besides ceiling frescoes that can be admired in churches in Krems, Dürnstein, Göttweig Abbey and Herzogenburg, Schmidt also created numerous altar and devotional paintings.

8

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Kunstmeile Krems The Kunsthalle Krems (Krems Hall of Art) is the main building on the Kunstmeile and spans the arc from the 19th century via Classic Modernism to contemporary art. Also on the Kunstmeile Krems are the only Caricature Museum in Austria, the Kunstraum Stein (Stein art room), the Forum Frohner and the Ernst Krenek Forum, the Minorite Church Klangraum (a concert hall) and the Galerie Göttlicher in the historic centre of Stein. Other art and cultural venues in the immediate neighbourhood are the Susanne Wenger Archive and the cinema in the Kesselhaus, at the Danube University in Krems. The Galerie Stadtpark and the new Zeit Kunst Niederösterreich State Gallery in the Dominican Church also display contemporary art. www.kunstmeile-krems.at

Excursion tip World Heritage Centre In Krems-Stein, at the entrance to the Wachau, the new River Navigation and World Heritage Centre (Schifffahrts- und Welterbezentrum) stands right on the Danube. This architecturally interesting building hosts a wine and gift shop and lounge under the name ‘Wellenspiel’.

Brochures and information are available in the Wachau Info-Center Krems-Stein.

Tickets for boat trips in the Wachau are available at the ticket desks. For more information see: www.wellenspiel.at

Useful information Beauty with a past The Gozzoburg on the Hohe Markt is the oldest civilian town palace north of the Alps. It was built in the 13th century by Krems citizen ‘Gozzo’, town magistrate and mining official ‘at Chrems’ by trade.

Recent renovation work revealed how magnificently the rooms were decorated. Finely sketched frescoes

River navigation There is a river trip on board the modern MS Austria, run by Brandner Schiffahrt, which leaves from the Schifffahrts- und Welterbezentrum (River Navigation and World Heritage Centre) Krems and allows you to enjoy the Wachau scenery and its culinary delicacies as far as Melk. Stops on the way: Dürnstein, Weißenkirchen, Spitz, Aggsbach Dorf (on request), Emmersdorf. The DDSG also runs passenger ship lines. www.brandner.at | www.ddsg-blue-danube.at

and an imposing frieze in the courtroom now surround the insignia of the authority of the day, King Premysl Ottokar II: also displayed are the emblems of Bohemia, Moravia, Austria and Styria, along with many other shields, helmets and embellishments. The Arms Hall (Wappensaal) and Chapel of St. Catherine (Katharinenkapelle) are available to hire for events, subject to conditions. The Gozzoburg can be visited in specially-arranged guided

tours, organised by museumkrems in the Dominican Monastery. The only existing picture of the builder Gozzo can also be found there.

Tel +43 (0) 2732 801567 www.museumkrems.at

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

9

Wachau apricots Anyone who has tried apricots from different regions will immediately recognise the special quality of the Wachau apricot. Much sought-after because of its unique taste, nowadays it enjoys EU protection as a name and product.

Harald Aufreiter looks after these sensitive fruits and the 1,000 or so trees in the apricot orchard he owns. He exclusively cultivates the fruity old Wachau varieties, such as the ‘Kremser Marille’ (Krems Apricot) and ‘Klosterneuburger Marille’ (Klosterneuburg Apricot). Krems holds an entire festival under the heading ‘Alles Marille’ (‘Ever ything to do with apricots’), while the ‘Marillenkirtag’ in Spitz attracts thousands of visitors every year, and a dedicated ‘Fruit Trail’ in KremsAngern now runs through apricot orchards and past little rest areas with information posts. There are also stories about the sometime hard work in the fruit orchards, the manual harvest using long, narrow ‘Marillenzistel’ (apricot picking baskets) and the landscape.

The tale of Lilli Marilli, the tree elf, is a very exciting story, principally for children. You can read in the children’s book how the hardworking bumblebee and the nimble squirrel help Lilli find the right place – and reenact the story – ideally with a grown-up, so children can also learn something about the apricot...

Useful information When purchasing apricots and apricot products, it is advisable to look for the ‘Original Wachauer Marille’ (‘Original Wachau Apricot’) seal.

This should be in evidence on the colourful stands on both banks of the Danube, displayed on information banners, sun shades and punnets. Furthermore, membership in the Wachau Apricot Association (‘Verein Wachauer Marille’) is indicated by the agricultural plaque attached to the premises and by the seal.

For example, that the Original Wachau Apricot is not only identifiable from its deliciously plump shape and rosy cheeks, but also from its sweet, succulent taste. The reasons for this are the distinctive climate, the soil and above all the combination of different climates. The associated differences in temperature between day and night, especially during the ripening phase, have a direct impact on the taste, aroma and composition of the fruit.

And because the especially delicious Wachau Apricots are a treat for all who enjoy them both fresh from the tree and in the form of dumplings, cakes, strudels, marmalades or juices, the region has been the ‘Genussregion Wachauer Marille g.U.’: Wachau Apricot (PDO) Region for several years. www.marillen-genuss.at

You can find out more about the criteria and members of the Association at: www.wachauermarille.at

10

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Dürnstein

Tourist information 3601 Dürnstein 132 Tel +43 (0) 2711 200 Email info@duernstein.at Web www.duernstein.at

Visible from some distance, the blue and white bell tower of Dürnstein towers above the tiled roofs. The unusual tower belongs to the Church of the Augustinian Canons. However, the monastery was dissolved at the end of the 18th century and the church has since been looked after by Herzogenburg Abbey. Dürnstein can look back on a volatile history: the ‘Dogs of Kuenring’ lived here, the Poor Clares withdrew to Dürnstein to pray, Provost Hieronymus Übelbacher suffused the town and vineyards with Baroque opulence, and the Romantic artists from Vienna found their motifs here. The former site of the monastery, the castle – now an elegant hotel – the Church of Cunigunda and the Prangerplatz are some of the cultural treasures of Austrian architecture. Another cultural treasure is the story of the English King Richard the Lionheart, who was incarcerated in today’s castle ruins above the town and, so the story goes, was later ransomed by his trustworthy singer Blondel.

Anyone who wants to find out more about viticulture in the Wachau should take a trip to the wine cellars of the Domäne Wachau, whose guided tours of the cellars end in a lavishly restored Baroque Cellar Palace.

The view of Dürnstein from the Danube is especially beautiful. Anyone travelling by road should ideally arrive in Dürnstein by taking the bicycle ferry, a flat-bottomed boat, from Rossatz, which lies across the water.

Tips for your enjoyment Slow train Wine experience trips through Dürnstein, the wine villages of Oberloiben and Unterloiben, through the vineyards, over the Loibenberg with its panoramic view to Göttweig Abbey. Wine tasting available directly on the hill, with special programmes for groups.

Tel +43 (0) 699 1982 2112 www.kuenringer.at

Wachau saffron in Loiben

Bäckerei & Konfiserie Schmidl

Wachau Saffron Factory and exhibition garden in Unterloiben/Dürnstein. As well as the spice, you can also savour and purchase Wachau saffron and red wine chocolate, saffron honey, saffron beer and saffron vinegar. www.wachauer-safran.at

Traditional Wachau shop where the famous ‘Wachauer Laberl’ (Wachau roll) was created in 1905.

Tel +43 (0) 2711 224 www.schmidl-duernstein.at

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

11

Historic centre of Dürnstein Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque buildings create an incomparable romantic urban ensemble in the historic centre of Dürnstein. The trail runs uphill from the banks of the Danube and the ‘painter’s corner’ – where landscape painters used to set up their easels – through the Traunergassl into the courtyard and to the Church of the Augustinian Canons, a unique Baroque jewel. It passes beautiful townhouses, the Prangerplatz and the Church of Cunigunda, and goes through the Steiner Tor, from where you can roam into the Dürnstein wine slopes, to Loiben.

Kirchen am Fluss The first convents along the Danube were founded in the 13th century. The Convent of the Poor Clares (today part of the Richard Löwenherz Hotel) and the Church of Cunigunda (remains near the east city gate) were established in Dürnstein. Augustinian canons from Bohemia established Dürnstein Monastery in 1410; this was later extensively converted to the Baroque style and, with its blue and white tower, turned into the landmark of the Wachau. There is also a parish church in Unterloiben that can be reached via the slow train, for example.

Useful information Wachauer Weinblick A picnic site with a wonderful view of Loiben and the Danube valley was established directly on the World Heritage Trail, on the Kellerberg at Dürnstein above the Domäne Wachau, by a young designer from the NDU St. Pölten.

Richard the Lionheart A signposted trail running from Dürnstein to the ruins provides greater insight into the life of Richard the Lionheart. It is no legend, but true, that the town of Wiener Neustadt in southern Lower Austria was built using the extortionate ransom that Duke Leopold V received for releasing the King of England.

Ferries in the Wachau A bicycle ferry links Dürnstein to Rossatz from Easter to the end of October.

Ferry times are available at www.faehre-wachau.at or Tel +43 (0) 676 370 9633.

The truth about the singer Blondel The singer Blondel actually existed: called Blondel de Nesle, he was one of the first troubadours in northern France. He lived from around 1155 to 1202 and wrote many songs. According to legend, he searched tirelessly for his friend and lord Richard the Lionheart and sang his songs in front of every castle that he thought he might be in.

However, whether he actually knew the King of England is not certain – he never mentions this in any of his surviving songs.

12

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Domäne Wachau Everything that grows and ripens through the Wachau is proudly presented by the Domäne Wachau in a modern context. It is one of the few wine cooperatives in the world to belong to the top vintners for its quality. Light wood and bright glass frontages conceal a modern cellar in a historical brick setting. Here, under the broad brick arches, the rich history of winemaking in the Wachau can be felt. Among other things you can visit the favourite place of former Federal Chancellor Figl who – so it is rumoured – is said to have negotiated the Austrian Treaty of Independence there in his capacity as Foreign Minister. The tour of the cellar ends with the Cellar Palace.

Hieronymus Übelbacher proudly located his ‘Lusthaus im Weinberg’ (‘Vineyard Pavilion’) in the middle of the vineyards. None other than Baroque star architect Jakob Prandtauer designed the well-proportioned ‘pavilion castle’ for the art-loving Provost of Dürnstein. Following renovation, it once again shines out in white and yellow amid the green of the vine leaves, its interior being striking with its opulent wall decoration. What was once an idyllic setting for the Provost to enjoy the Wachau wines and sumptuous collection of engravings and etchings with friends is, with its rose arches, outside steps, panoramic terrace and Baroque front lawn, an ideal location for tastings and weddings today. www.domaene-wachau.at

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

13

The Wachau and its wines The most famous wine-making region in Austria owes its refined, elegant white wines not only to the high quality of its many vintners, but also to the ideal natural conditions. World-class wines originate in the special climate and on the typical ancient stone terraces.

Wines from the Wachau – especially the Riesling and Grüner Veltliner varieties of white wine – have won the highest awards at national and international wine tastings. What is the secret of the vintners’ success? The combination of innovation, excellent understanding of quality and knowledge of the climate and terroir. Today the Wachau vintners work a wine-growing area of some 1,390 hectares.

Built of stone To be able to produce wine on the steep slopes of the Wachau, suitable flat surfaces were created several centuries ago – terraces – protected against slippage by stone walls. The walls also store heat. When the stone walls were built, there was still no mortar. They still consist of stones carefully laid one on top of another, lending a special accent to the landscape.

Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus The 200 or so members of the Vinea Wachau Association operate around 85% of the wine-growing areas. They pay special attention to the preservation, quality and reputation of Wachau wines. They also focus on three particular categories of wine: Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd, which are exclusively produced by members of the Vinea Wachau. www.vinea-wachau.at

Steinfeder & co.

Steinfeder refers to the light sparkling white wine with a maximum alcohol content of 11%.

The name ‘Steinfeder’ (feather grass) comes from the feather-light grass that grows in the Wachau. Federspiel wines are somewhat more full-bodied, with a maximum alcohol content of 12.5%. The word ‘Federspiel’ comes from falconry and refers to the simulated kill that is intended to lure the falcon back to the hand of the falconer. Smaragd refers to the big, full-bodied wines with an alcohol content in excess of 12.5%. They are named after the iridescent emerald-green lizards (‘Smaragdeidechse’) that particularly enjoy basking on the sun-warmed stone terraces.

Tasting, walking and celebrating There are numerous options throughout the year for stylish wine tastings – at the various wine festivals, during ‘Weinfrühling’ (wine spring) and ‘Weinherbst’ (wine autumn), in the wine taverns and restaurants or directly at the vintners'.

Numerous picturesque trails run through the vineyards. Guided and commentated walks are also available. (For dates see the ‘Natur.Wein.Wandern’ brochure.)

Buying tips There is a wide range of wines from the Wachau on offer in the various wine shops, where the wines can also be tasted: Vinothek Wein & Wachau, Melk Tel +43 (0) 2752 54987 | www.weinundwachau.at Vinothek IWB Fohringer, Spitz/Donau Tel +43 (0) 2713 2029 | www.fohringer.at Vinothek Thal Wachau, Weißenkirchen Tel +43 (0) 2715 2600 Domäne Wachau, Dürnstein Tel +43 (0) 2711 3710 | www.domaene-wachau.at Wein.Handlung Noitz, Kloster UND Krems Tel +43 (0) 2732 70704 | www.wein-handlung.at Winzer Krems Tel +43 (0) 2732 855 1133 | www.sandgrube13.at Weingut der Stadt Krems Tel+43(0)2732801441 | www.weingutstadtkrems.at

14

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Weißenkirchen in der Wachau

This picturesque wine-making locality has long been a special place.

Weißenkirchen was once the centre of the ‘Magistrat Thal Wachau’ (Wachau Valley Municipal Administration) – the original Wachau, so to speak. A particularly striking building in the town is the imposing fortified church, towering over the neat vintners’ houses and harvesting yards with its angular tower and Gothic tiled roof inclined at 60 degrees. The view is very impressive: from the church balustrade the view stretches across the Danube valley and the locality with its extensive vineyards. Almost underneath the church, the Teisenhoferhof is worth a visit, an event venue housing the Wachaumuseum.

Tourist information 3610 Weißenkirchen, Wachaustraße 242 Tel +43 (0) 2715 2600 Email info@weissenkirchen-wachau.at www.weissenkirchen-wachau.at

Joching, Wösendorf and St. Michael come from Weißenkirchen – well-known places with names familiar to wine connoisseurs. The Ritzling vineyard between Weißenkirchen and Joching is supposed to be where the Riesling vine originated from, according to one version of the story. By contrast, it is quite certain that two Weißenkirchen vintners contributed substantially to the revival of the Wachau wine trade: the pioneers Josef Jamek and Franz Prager.

Both were also founding fathers of the Vinea Wachau, along with Wilhelm Schwengler and Franz Hirtzberger. The members of this vintners’ association are obliged to promote and preserve Wachau wine culture and meet the highest quality standards.

Wösendorf rates near the top in terms of romantic atmosphere, with its dreamy alleyways. St Michael only contains 13 houses, yet it plays a significant role in history: Founded in 987, the parish was the only one in the region at the time.

Tips for your enjoyment

Wachau chilli From the wide range of types of chilli it has cultivated, Gärtnerei Hick in Weißenkirchen produces five types from ‘soft’ to ‘2hot’.

Tel +43 (0) 2715 2291 | www.hick-wachau.at

Prandtauerhof

Wieser Wachau

The Holzapfel family in Joching offers enjoyment of the highest level: the Prandtauerhof is one of the leading wineries in the Wachau. The home distillery is also one of the best, its brandies earning the highest awards year after year.

Tel +43 (0) 2715 2310 | www.holzapfel.at

Home-made liqueurs and marmalades, fine chocolate, home-roasted Arabian coffee and natural cosmetics by Johanna and Markus Wieser sell well throughout Europe.

Tel +43 (0) 2715 2544 www.wieser-wachau.at

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

15

Useful information The hares of St Michael Anyone who looks closely can see them.

The ‘Seven Hares’ on the ridge of the fortified Church of St Michael are an architectural curiosity.

On being asked, the inhabitants of the Wachau are happy to tell the story of the hares, which took refuge on the church roof during the snowy winter and were unwillingly left up there after the thaw. But the ‘hares’ do not look like long-eared animals – see the clay originals in the Weinstadtmuseum (Wine-Growing Town Museum) in

Krems. They have also been called stags or steeds. What some see as an homage to Siebenrössl, a church donor, others see as a religious symbol: the persecution

The Teisenhoferhof As part of the church fortifications in Weißenkirchen, the courtyard was extended with a Renaissance-style arcade courtyard and two towers in 1542. Where crossbowmen used to prove their skills in earlier times is now the Wachaumuseum. In the past two centuries, painters such as Emil Strecker, Max Suppantschitsch and Johann Nepomuk Geller have discovered the beauty of the region. They have gone down in history as Wachau artists.

From slope to slope A walk among the sloped vineyards is always worthwhile, ideally with one of the Weißenkirchen vintners. But the World Heritage Trail promises the best views and insights throughout the Wachau. By taking this trail, anyone in walking shoes coming over the high route from Dürnstein will reach the famous slopes of Klaus and Achleiten, two of the best sites in the world for Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. You can find more information on walks through the vineyards in other parts of the Wachau in the ‘Natur.Wein.Wandern’ brochure.

Ferries in the Wachau The cable ferry, open to vehicles, connects Weißenkirchen with the historical fortified church of St Lorenz on the southern bank of the Wachau during the season. From here there is also a wonderful, if arduous, climb on the World Heritage Trail to the Seekopf hill.

of Christ by the henchmen, represented as horses. Looked at this way, the story of the hares in the snow is perhaps rather the most entertaining.

16

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Useful information Wachau harvesting yards In the Middle Ages the monasteries primarily shaped the economic and cultural life of the Wachau. At the end of the 15th century, almost three quarters of the vineyards in the Wachau were owned by the Church.

To press the wine, the monasteries set up grand harvesting yards. At that time harvesting yards were set up by over 50 monasteries. Many of these yards still host wineries.

Kirchen am Fluss The parish church at Weißenkirchen used to be one of the most important church strongholds in Lower Austria, with its covered steps and the Teisenhoferhof beneath, which was built in the 13th century on a chapel dating from the 11th century.

The parish church at Wösendorf, on the other hand, is an impressive Baroque building with an altar piece by Martin Johann Schmidt, also known as ‘Kremser Schmidt’.

Finally, St Michael’s has one of the oldest church foundations in eastern Austria. First mentioned as a building in 987, the church was the only parish in the region for a long time. The ‘Schädelpietà’ (skull pietà) on the altar table in the Gothic charnel house might raise a few goose bumps.

One secret for people to enjoy is the chapel built by Jakob Prandtauer in the Prandtauerhof winery and restaurant in Joching.

Harvesting yards There is a large number of harvesting yards in the community of Weißenkirchen.

Ask at the information centre and discover for yourself the impressive historical buildings that are occasionally still used today as vintner yards.

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

17

Spitz an der Donau

Spitz encircles the Tausendeimerberg hill like a string of pearls. Such a prominent vineyard in the middle of a built-up area is unusual even for the Wachau.

Marktstraße snakes uphill from the Danube, past harvesting yards, the Baroque Aggsteinerhof and old stone wells to the parish church with its characteristic kinked nave. A small lane goes from the Kirchenplatz to a town gate, with walls that – so the story goes – were coloured red with blood in the struggle with besiegers during the Thirty Years’ War. Hence it was given the name ‘Rotes Tor’ (Red Gate). Today it is one of the finest viewpoints in Spitz.

It is not far from the late Gothic church of St Mauritius to Spitz Castle with its compact elegance and Renaissance hall, which can be hired for events and weddings. Another particularly attractive spot for festivities is the garden behind the castle. Heading back towards the Danube, the medieval town hall with its Gothic detail stands at the top of the main street. The Wachau railway runs through the inner courtyard. Anyone wanting to find out more about historic Spitz should ask Hans Hamberger to open up the historic shop or visit the modernistically designed River Navigation Museum (Schifffahrtsmuseum) in Schloss Erlahof.

The ruins of Hinterhaus are still to be taken in. The view richly rewards the climb up to the ruins on the hill above the town. From here you can go into the Spitzer Graben or carry on westwards (by train through what must be the shortest railway tunnel – the Devil’s Wall, ‘Teufelsmauer’) to Schwallenbach with its striking little fortified church.

Tourist information 3620 Spitz, Mittergasse 3a Tel +43 (0) 2713 2363 Email info@spitz-wachau.at www.spitz-wachau.com

Tips for your enjoyment Historic shop Hans Hamberger has recreated a convenience store from the first decade of the 20th century in the cellar vaults of his house, with old furnishings, historic goods, documents and advertisements from a traditional Spitz trading house. Tours on request: claus.hamberger@aon.at Tel +43 (0) 2713 2074

Naturpark-BIOthek

Der Busch

Regional delicacies from the JauerlingWachau Nature Park are sold in an old vintner’s yard dating from the 16th century.

Tel +43 (0) 2713 72935 www.naturpark-jauerling.at

Wine and apricot specialities and Segway rental with guided tours through the Wachau.

Tel +43 (0) 676 670 4776 | www.derbusch.at www.segway-wachau.at

18

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Spitzer Graben The Danube once used to flow through the Spitzer Graben. This makes the smooth ‘Spitzer Bach’ (Spitz stream) valley the largest tributary valley in the Wachau. The steepest vineyard terraces in the Wachau are found at Gut am Steg, Vießling and Elsarn. At the top end of the valley lies Mühldorf, in the midst of a bucolic landscape of meadows and fruit orchards. It is hard to believe that graphite was once mined at the fringes of the locality. Today natural displays such as the apricot bloom can be admired there and many award-winning Grüne Veltliner, Rieslinge and Neuburger wines tasted.

Tip: It is worth filling up a picnic bag with Wachau specialities and wines and taking a break at one or other of the pretty spots.

Kirchen am Fluss Art historians are still arguing about the kink. Indeed there are only eight examples of a kink in the line of the nave in a church in Austria, and the one in Spitz Parish Church is the most skewed. The tower and the sacristy are the oldest parts of the building, originating from the 14th century. The richly decorated nave took over two whole centuries to build. Tip: Look for the famous figures of Christ and the twelve apostles originating from the Gothic period.

The Gothic style of the chapel in Schwallenbach, built in1420, has also been retained. The church tower was destroyed by fire when the Thirty Years’ War reached Schwallenbach. Subsequently the pragmatic Wachau residents gave the new tower a ‘stone helmet’ – as a form of fire protection.

Tip: The altar piece of St Sigismund was created by the famous ‘Kremser Schmidt’. The key can be obtained from Walter Bergkirchner opposite the church.

Curiosities The White Lady of Hinterhaus Over 600 years ago Heinrich von Kuenring (‘der Eiserne’ or ‘the Strict’) ruled at Hinterhaus Castle. He was as unfaithful to his wife Adelheid as he was faithful in serving his King. She died following a brief marriage, and just a few months later Heinrich married a second time – although in those days a person was supposed to wait a full year. When Heinrich also died suddenly, everyone saw

it as God’s punishment for what he had done. Ever since, a lady in a snow-white robe appears at the windows of the derelict castle every year on the night of Hein-

rich’s death. Legend says it is the ghost of Adelheid, who cannot find peace because of her husband’s unfaithfulness, and continuously wails: ‘Nit ein Jahr!’ (‘Not a year!’).

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

19

Ferries in the Wachau The car ferry in Spitz-Arnsdorf connects the two banks of the Danube all year round. Anyone who does not find the natural backdrop sufficient can get a change of perspective by visiting Olafur Eliasson’s art installation in the ferry lounge: a camera obscura that works on the river without any power – just like the cable ferry. From 2012 the River Navigation Museum in Spitz will provide information on the ferries, their history and their significance for the people of the Wachau.

Spitzer Lände When building the high water protection, the traditional tourist promenade was redesigned by architects and artists in 2012 – and provided with a new lighting concept, by renowned light artist Siegrun Appelt, for evening walks on the river.

Spitz Castle Garden From 2012 a new show garden designed by Gärtnerei Hick in the old castle garden will provide an interesting insight into the diversity of flora in the Wachau. Besides the Wachau apricot, vineyard peach and almond trees, the large ‘Hieronymus press’ that used to stand in Dürnstein is worth seeing.

River Navigation Museum You can learn about the history of river navigation in the modernistic River Navigation Museum in Schloss Erlahof. Special place has been given to the many detailed, award-winning model ships. www.schifffahrtsmuseum-spitz.at

Useful information Tausendeimerberg The hill set in the middle of Spitz actually has two names: ‘Burgberg’ (Castle Hill) towards the cemetery and ‘Tausendeimerberg’ (Thousand Bucket Hill) towards the Danube. A thousand buckets of wine equals about 57,000 litres, which is supposedly what the Bavarian monks harvested on the 310-metre-high hill.

In a good year, of course. Long, winding paths lead up from the cobbled lanes onto the steep slopes, on the ancient

stone terraces that have made the mountain a sought-after location. The climb is rewarded with a panoramic view over the

Danube and the roofs of the Renaissance and Baroque houses of Spitz, enabling you to instantly forget the exertion.

20

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Mühldorf

The Danube air wafts gently through the Spitzer Graben to Mühldorf and blends with the cool breeze from the north. This enables the thriving grape bunches and apricots to grow especially fruity and aromatic. The Wachau World Heritage Trail also runs this far, at the foot of the Jauerling, along the Spitzer Graben Panoramic Trail, a trail created and looked after by Marivino, the local apricot and wine association. The millstone is a symbol of the locality. This is because numerous waterwheel saws, hammermills and ordinary mills used to be operated on the Spitz stream.

www.muehldorf-wachau.at

Almost as old as the late Gothic fortified church at Trandorf and the St Margaretha Parish Church at Niederranna is the bakehouse. The Stummvoll family maintains it as a bakery museum and bakes bread in the almost 400-yearold clay oven once a month. Thus refreshed, carry on to the Calvary Hill, the stations of which were carefully restored by the inhabitants of Mühldorf a few years ago, and on to the lofty Oberranna Castle. It can boast never to have been conquered. The highlight here – besides the taverns and panoramic terraces – is St George’s Chapel and its romanesque crypt, almost a thousand years old. The castle itself has been a stylish hotel for a number of years.

Tips for your enjoyment Spitzer Graben Panoramic Trail Why wine and apricots ripen to such exceptional quality in the Wachau can be appreciated on the Spitzer Graben ‘From Wine to Apricots’ Panoramic Trail, with its numerous wine taverns and gastronomical outlets where wine and apricot products can be bought. www.marivino.at

Bäckereimuseum Sissy Stummvoll Museum designed with affection and a great deal of specialist knowledge, with a 17th century clay oven. Farmers’ market every other week in the picturesque inner courtyard of the Café Stummvoll. | Tel +43 (0) 2713 8243 www.baeckereimuseum.at

Wachau whisky The Kausls not only conjure up homemade culinary delights, juices, liqueurs and fine brandies from fruit at the Marillenhof Kausl. A special treat at the distillery is several flavours of Wachau whisky.

Tel +43 (0) 2713 8225 www.wachau-genuss.at

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

21

Spitzer Graben The village of Elsarn marks the upper end of the Wachau wine-making region.

Vineyards, apricot orchards and woods run into each other on the slopes of the hill. Here, at Trenning, is the highest vineyard in Lower Austria, at 575 metres above sea level.

Several mountain bike trails also run around Mühldorf. True to the motto of ‘Zwischen Wein und Stein’ (‘Between wine and stone’), the Weinstein tour runs from the Wachau vineyards over the peaks of the neighbouring hills and through the woods of the Southern Waldviertel.

Kirchen am Fluss Located in a fruit orchard high above the Spitzer Graben, the impressive Oberranna Castle has fabulous towers, a mighty fortification ring and a moat. A precious jewel is the romanesque chapel dedicated to St George. It is a rare example of a style of building with two transepts, two crossing towers and a westward-facing crypt. Only the eastern of the two towers remains today. The massive capitals in the church interior are noteworthy. One of these – the famous ‘Würfelkapitell’ (‘Cube Capital’) – shows a hunting scene. The residential castle from the age of chivalry was carefully renovated several years ago and has reopened as a hotel.

Pilgrimages in the Wachau The Baroque Calvary Hill in Unterranna is a secret tip. Fully accessible at any time. Nearby, on the northern edge of the Jauerling Nature Park, lies the richly decorated ‘Wallfahrtskirche von Heiligenblut’ (Pilgrimage Church of the Holy Blood).

Structure & organisation Looking after an apricot orchard and processing the fruits into fine brandies, juices and marmalades is the Kausl family’s speciality. A series of exhibitions as part of Wachau 2010plus shows what happens when contemporary art stakes its place in the midst of tradition. Each year four male and female artists are invited to spend a week working as ‘artists in residence’ in the Atelier Marillengarten, amid the fruit trees. Their work can be seen from the start of May to the end of October. www.st-or.at

Useful information The first Raiffeisenbank The Spitzer Graben is the valley of superlatives. Besides the highest and steepest vineyard terraces in the Wachau, the first and therefore oldest Raiffeisenbank in Austria can be found here. A milestone in rural history, Friedrich Wilhelm Raiffeisen’s revolutionary cooperative concept was picked up in Austria as well in the second half of the 19th century. In 1886 the first Raiffeisenbank was established in Mühldorf in the Wachau – 13 years before the Austrian Raiffeisen Cooperative (Österreichische Raiffeisenverband) was founded.

22

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Wachau delicacies The Wachau is one of the top culinary regions in Europe. Few regions can treat visitors to such a wide range of locations offering culinary delights and delicious products.

You can find a selection of regional products and delicacies all year round at: www.wachaushop.com

Sweet treats The Göttweig ‘Originale Benediktiner Torte’ (Original Benedictine Cake) is a speciality, baked according to a recipe that stretches back to 1401. The nut cakes filled with apricot marmalade and with a delicate chocolate glaze can be enjoyed in the monastery restaurant. www.stiftgoettweig.at Based on the ‘Kalmuck’ famous in the Wachau (a traditional garment first worn by Danube boatsmen), the Café-Konditorei Elisabeth in Weißenkirchen has created the ‘Kalmucktorte’ – an artistically decorated composition filled with chocolate mousse. www.kalmucktorte.at The ‘Original Wachauer Kugeln’ (Original Wachau Balls) created by CaféKonditorei Raimitz in Krems, consist of a core of nougat surrounded by apricot marzipan and dark chocolate. www.raimitz.at The Café Konditorei Hagmann in the pedestrian zone in Krems is a creative workshop for ‘sweet dreams’. The finest chocolates with no preservatives originate from the premier chocolate manufacturer in Krems. www.hagmann.co.at

High-proof spirits Bailoni, the ’1st Wachau Apricot Distillery’ in the Wachau, is certainly one of the most famous producers of apricot liqueurs and brandies. There are also apricot jam and high-proof apricot spirits here. You can visit the distillery in Krems, as well as taste and buy the products. www.bailoni.at For more than 50 years the Hellerschmid family has been producing brandies and liqueurs in its private distillery in Krems. The range also includes syrups, marmalades, chutneys and mustard. www.hellerschmid.com Johanna and Markus Wieser produce home-made liqueurs based on traditional recipes and new, eclectic ideas in their own distillery. www.wieser-wachau.at

Wachau World Heritage Site

Wachau saffron, chilli and flora Saffron and chilli are exotica among the produce of the Wachau. Saffron is produced by the ’1st Wachau Saffron Factory’ in Unterloiben, where there is also a shop. www.crocus-austriacus.at There are various sorts of chilli, from mild to very hot, for sale at Gärtnerei Hick at Weißenkirchen. The gardeners’ range also includes plants typical of the Wachau, such as vines, vineyard peaches, apricot and almond trees, sweet chestnuts, oleander and more. www.hick-wachau.at

The Wachau Laberl Created in 1905 according to a strictly secret family recipe, the light, fluffy white bread roll tastes as good with ham, hearty wine tavern fare and a glass of wine as it does with jam. The Original Wachau Laberl is available in Franz Schmidl’s bakery in Dürnstein or in Krems. www.schmidl-duernstein.at

Wine taverns and toques The spectrum of gastronomical outlets in the Wachau is particularly large.

It is common to enjoy food and drink in the numerous wine taverns. A ‘Buschen’ (bundle of twigs) at the entrance tells you that it is ‘ausg’steckt’, or open.

There are additionally numerous stylish country inns and a surprisingly large number of restaurants that have been awarded Gault-Millau toques. All the addresses and the wine tavern calendar can be found at www.wachau.at.

Farmers’ shops and markets The numerous farmers’ shops and markets are good places to take a look at the seasonal offering of fruit and vegetables. For addresses and opening times see the website www.wachau.at (‘Service’/‘Genussvoll einkaufen’ menu item – in German).

You can always find little stands along the roadsides in the Wachau, where fresh fruit and vegetables are sold: look for the ‘Original Wachauer Marille’ sign!

|

23

24

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Maria Laach am Jauerling

Maria Laach has, amid the Jauerling Nature Park, a box seat view of the Wachau. The view from the Wachau Balcony, the terrace of the Nature Park House, stretches far across the Danube valley. The Wachau World Heritage Trail leads towards and over the peak of the Jauerling, the highest elevation along the entire course of the Danube. The Jauerling Nature Park is a delightful hiking area in summer. Walkers and snowshoe hikers come to appreciate the natural landscape in winter too. There is even a ski lift – and a modern ski lodge to tempt you with some après ski.

www.marialaach.at

The history here is also powerful. For centuries Maria Laach has been a much visited pilgrimage site. The pilgrims’ destination is the ‘Wallfahrtskirche Maria Laach’ (Pilgrimage Church), with its double-winged altar and the miraculous image of ‘Mary with Six Fingers’. The historical decor in the church, which has remained almost unchanged, is impressive. There are earthly delights at the Farmers’ Market every Saturday. The Three Churches Trail and the Power Trail, which both start in Maria Laach, allow you to appreciate spiritual energy as well as felt strength.

Tips for your enjoyment Reisinger Fruit Farm ‘From the tree to the bottle’ is the maxim of Franz Reisinger, who works a 15-hectare fruit farm 800 metres above sea level on the Jauerling, producing fruit juices, nectars, cider, brandies, liqueurs and jams at his fruit farm – exclusively ripened, picked by hand and freshly processed.

Tel +43 (0) 2713 2855 www.obsthof-reisinger.at

Maria Laach Farmers’ Market Every Saturday from 9am to 3pm – fresh agricultural produce directly from the farmers.

www.marialaach.at

Nature Park House & Jauerling Observation Point Hot food all day long and the highest and most beautiful view of the Danube, from the Wachau Terrace.

Tel +43 (0) 2713 30017 www.naturpark-jauerling.at

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

25

Useful information The Three Churches Trail

Jauerling-Wachau Nature Park On a sunny day you can sit and enjoy yourself on the Wachau Terrace at the Nature Park House on the Jauerling, 915 metres above sea level, while looking far out across the landscape. All around the observation point lie the woods and meadows of the Jauerling Wachau Nature Park. When the weather is clear you can see from the Carpathian range, past the Ötscher mountain to the Watzmann. For both experienced and casual walkers, there are the seven stages of the Jauerling Circuit. You will find detailed descriptions and GPS tracks on the Wachau World Heritage Trail website. www.naturpark-jauerling.at | www.welterbesteig.at And when winter arrives, the people of the Wachau are proud to point out that they have their own skiing area, which has hosted the Snowboarding World Cup. The skiing area is ideal for both a fast warm-up run or for beginners.

There are two ski schools to provide support, and there is a ski lodge as well.

Tip: Floodlit night skiing is provided from Wednesday to Saturday. www.jauerling.at

This well-signposted hiking trail with historic roots traces a line between the three most famous churches in the Nature Park: the Maria Laach Pilgrimage Church, the late Gothic St Andreas Pilgrimage Church in Heiligenblut and the Gothic Weitental Fortified Church.

Car-free routes, long views over the Jauerling upland and the Weitental, and finally the hearty specialities in the inns in the towns provide renewed energy for any eventuality.

Useful information The Power Trail

Pilgrimages in the Wachau It is unclear exactly when pilgrimages to Maria Laach began. Church researchers assume a pilgrimage tradition extending over almost 1000 years.

The destination, Maria Laach Parish Church, lies on the southern slope of the Jauerling and has largely retained its medieval decor. In 1380 construction of the Gothic church in place of the previous church was started, and the number of pilgrimages increased. Pilgrims’ pledges during times of plague and miracle healings in the 18th century attracted more and more pilgrims to the double Gothic altar and its miraculous image of ‘Mary with Six Fingers’. According to legend, the Madonna’s sixth finger continued to appear even after being painted over time and again.

Maria Laach is not just a place of power in the figurative sense: the 1.5 km Power Trail begins at the town well.

Edmund Binder established the circular route, which traces the phenomenon of earth energy. The power of the landscape can be felt at ten stations. The path runs from the ‘Steinerne Tor’ (Stone Gate) and ‘Sternzeichenplatz’ (‘Star Sign or Zodiac Place’) via the ‘Kraftbankerl’ (Power Bench) and the ‘Klangstation’ (Sound Station) to the highlight – the Maria Laach Pilgrimage Church.

26

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Aggsbach Markt

The community of Aggsbach Markt rose to fame because of a special archaeological find. Records show that ‘on a glorious August morning in 1908, during railway works, a Wachau lady was rudely awoken from a sleep that had lasted 25,000 years.’ The Venus of Willendorf – 11 centimetres tall, made of limestone and originally covered with red chalk – is today, as then, an archaeological sensation.

The 16th century buildings in Aggsbach Markt are worth seeing. Fisheries and trade brought the inhabitants of those days a modest amount of wealth.

The three-nave church was built in the late romanesque style at the end of the 13th century, then redesigned in a Gothic style, and then converted to a Baroque style. With its enclosing wall, the church is a typical example of a Wachau parish church. In earlier days it was a much-visited pilgrimage site to St Mary. The long history lends a romantic note to a walk through the town. www.tiscover.at/aggsbach On the other hand, there is a stiff breeze from the Jauerling – the local mountain in the Wachau – providing Aggsbach residents with sweeping natural venue for hiking. Aggsbach, like Willendorf, is a stage on the Jauerling Circuit.

Excursion tip Hubhof Family Park Fun and excitement provided by a prehistoric show with life-sized dinosaurs, a Neanderthal family, giant insects, a nostalgic enchanted forest, a dwarf goat enclosure, a display of garden gnomes, an Indian village, paddle wheel boats and much more.

Tel +43 (0) 2712 241 | www.hubhof.at

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

27

Venus of Willendorf The little statuette probably represents the concept of beauty for an entire epoch in the history of mankind: corpulent, with large breasts and wide hips, is how the limestone figurine from the Stone Age appears. Recommended for a short journey in time is the ‘Venusium’, just a few steps from the excavation site. This small, pretty museum transports visitors into the Stone Age, with its finds from the archaeological work and information on the first female figurines in human history. As part of a public art project curated by Lower Austria each year, a female artist designs her very own Venus for Willendorf at the excavation site. The original Venus can be viewed in the Natural History Museum in Vienna. www.willendorf.info

Kirchen am Fluss The district of the community of Aggsbach includes Aggsbach Parish Church with the Baroque Jakob Prandtauer presbytery, the 19th century Groisbach Chapel and the freestanding wooden bell tower of Köfering.

Useful information The Jauerling Circuit A homage to the ‘Roof of the Wachau’, and a route to the highlights of the World Heritage Site – the seven stages of the Jauerling Circuit lead around and up the highest mountain in the Wachau. The circuit begins and ends in Spitz. Any other partial stretch along the way can also be used as a starting and ending point – making it ideal for families and ambitious longdistance walkers alike.

Anyone starting from Spitz goes past the ruins of Hinterhaus and past Willendorf – where the Venus was found – to Aggsbach Markt. Overgrown terraces and romantic villages such as Groisbach and Köfering lie en route to the community of Aggsbach.

The route passes over hills and through woods to Maria Laach. From there it goes downhill to Emmersdorf

and past Rothenhof Castle.

M e a d o w s a n d h a m l e t s f r in g e the route to the village of Weiten and its fortified church. After the lofty villages of Heiligenblut and Raxendorf, the route leads downhill towards the Spitzer Graben, to the fortified church of Trandorf and finally to Mühldorf. Then comes the king of the stages: from Mühldorf,

past the highest vineyards in Austria, the 960-metre-high Jauerling is conquered, before turning towards the Danube where the circuit ends in Spitz.

GPS tracks, elevation profiles and stage descriptions are available on the Wachau World Heritage Trail website. www.welterbesteig.at

30

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Emmersdorf an der Donau

Emmersdorf clearly offers the best views of Melk Abbey. Just a narrow strip of land separates the old Wachau town from the Danube as it gently flows past. It has always been a source of visitors and wealth for the people of Emmersdorf, formerly due to a waterway toll, latterly thanks to the many cyclists and visitors interested in culture. Boats also stop at the new shipping pier near the Danube bridge.

Tourist information 3644 Emmersdorf, No. 22 Tel +43 (0) 2752 70010 Email info@emmersdorf.at www.emmersdorf.at

Sun-lovers are keen on coming to Luberegg, one of the most beautiful sand beaches in the Wachau. The people of Emmersdorf have something special for those looking for a memorable experience on the Danube: a trip on a faithful replicate of a ‘Zille’, a wooden flat-bottom boat, from Emmersdorf to Spitz and Dürnstein in the heart of the Wachau. There is an optional cultural tour or navigation training (see ‘Tips – Downstream Travel’).

In the historical heart of the town of Emmersdorf, the late Gothic Parish Church of St Nicholas, Rothenhof Castle, 16th-century vintners’ houses and the 500-year-old town hall arch catch the eye. The ‘Galerie im Magdalenengwölb’ beneath the chapel displays modern art. Close by, on the Wachau World Heritage Trail, are the ruins of Gossam, a Romanesque/ Gothic castle chapel that was once a popular pilgrimage destination.

Also worth visiting is the ‘Kramurigwölb’ – over 2,000 exhibits from the 17th to 19th centuries are on display in Alois Zipperle’s local heritage museum (call +43 (0) 2752 71764).

Tips for your enjoyment Stone labyrinth A classical Cretan labyrinth has been laid out over a distance of 356 metres in Emmersdorf.

Bauer & Wirt Langthaler

Speckner Boat Trips

Family-run business with a cosy restaurant offering optional romantic picnics. There are horses, rabbits and guinea pigs for children to enjoy. There are also around 25 red deer living on the premises.

Tel +43 (0) 2752 71427 www.gasthaus-langthaler.at

Danube experience tours, travelling downstream on the 10-metre ‘Wachowia’, an historic wooden flat-bottom boat typical for the Danube, from Melk or Emmersdorf to the Wachau World Heritage Site.

Tel +43 (0) 664 79 00968 www.naufahrt.at.tf

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

31

The Wachau railway The 100-year-old Wachau railway boasts a new design and a new timetable since 2012. It runs from Krems to Emmersdorf at weekends and on public holidays, daily during the summer. The line follows an impressive elevated route offering the best views of the Wachau. Themed trains run on certain dates. The train journey includes culinary delights and an expert travel guide.

Most recently featured are combined boat and rail tickets, for example travelling out by train and back by boat – or the other way around. www.noevog.at

Kirchen am Fluss The Parish Church of St Nicholas with its late Gothic, elevated nave is enthroned on the hill. A trail leads from here over the St Coloman Steps (‘Kolomanistiege’) with the statue of St Coloman into the town centre. In the town itself, it is worth visiting the Chapel of St Mary Magdalene (for group tours call +43 (0) 2752 71889) and its ‘Galerie im Magdalenengwölb’ – through which a refreshing breeze of regional contemporary art wafts.

Useful information Donkey trekking

Pilgrimages in the Wachau Directly on the Wachau World Heritage Trail heading towards Aggsbach Markt lie the ruins of the former Gossam Castle chapel, a popular pilgrimage destination. From Emmersdorf it is also not far to one of the most famous pilgrimage sites in Austria: Maria Taferl in the Nibelungengau.

They are called Abraham, Balduin, Bonifaz and Willibald, have mischievous long ears and, good-natured and not at all stubborn, await you for various donkey adventures in the Wachau. The programme for Karl and Anita’s nine donkeys in Rantenberg near Emmersdorf includes orientation tours, hikes, obstacle courses and carriage trips. Roaming is the donkeys’ desire – so the name of a 3-hour trip through the Emmersdorf hinterland. Anyone who tackles an obstacle course on a donkey and completes a questionnaire on it is allowed to refer to themselves as the proud owner of a ‘donkey driving certificate’ – an original idea for works and society excursions.

Tel +43 (0) 664 134 5956 www.wachauer.at

32

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Melk

The town at the foot of the Benedictine monastery has been an important trading station from time immemorial. It is easy to see what enchants visitors here today: the Melk inhabitants’ love of detail. shop signs are handpainted, windows and doors are coquettishly edged in white. A sgraffito, a fresco, an old date – numerous details tell the story of Wachau architecture over half a millennium. The refreshing focal point at the Rathausplatz is the 17th century fountain of St Coloman. The stone saint and his dolphins look directly towards the town hall, the historic ‘Brotladen’ (‘bread shop’) and the Baroque stripes of the ‘Lebzelterhaus’, and hold silent conversations with the relief bust of Abbot Alexander Karl.

Tourist information 3390 Melk, Kremser Straße 5 Tel +43 (0) 2752 51160 Email melk@donau.com www.stadt-melk.at

The cobbled Sterngasse heads towards the Danube. Then take a quick detour to the left, to the lavishly decorated ‘Alte Post’ and the town’s parish church, with its wonderful Mount of Olives relief, before reaching the branch of the Danube. Opposite lies the Wachau Arena. This huge marquee, where the terraces of Melk Abbey form the backdrop to the stage, is the venue of one of the most important summer theatres in Lower Austria. Every year both great works of world literature and great musical revues are staged here.

From here a section of the Wachau World Heritage Trail runs through the romantic floodplain forest to Melk Danube Power Station, the last weir before the Wachau, before the river flows freely as far as Krems.

From 2013 you will be able to get from the information point around the town of Melk in an hour at the most, by taking the well-signposted ‘Red Thread’ (‘Roter Faden’) circuit.

Tips for your enjoyment 1. Accordion Museum Rarities, precious objects and curiosities from 1860 to the present day, plus the largest collection of models in Austria on the subject of accordions, are displayed at the museum opened in Melk in 2009 by Hannes Thanheiser, actor, musician and passionate collector – the first museum of its kind throughout Austria.

Tel +43 (0) 2752 51489 www.akkordeonmuseum.at

Melk creative trails

Sweet treats

The Melk creative trails are both an attractive method of finding your way around and a unique art project. The ‘blue wave’ and ‘golden staircase’ lead via the historic centre to Melk Abbey.

Tel +43 (0) 2752 51160 www.stadt-melk.at

The delicious ‘Melker Taler’, a handmade chocolate speciality, and the original ‘Melker Torte’, a sweet temptation made of chocolate and almond paste with apricot marmalade, were created in the Café-Konditorei Mistlbacher.

Tel +43 (0) 2752 52350 www.mistlbacher.com

Wachau World Heritage Site

Kirchen am Fluss The Wachau is a cultural landscape that has been strongly marked by Christianity since the time of the Romans. It started with St Severin, who lived in Mautern, after which numerous monasteries – primarily from the Bavarian region – set up harvesting yards in the Wachau in order to plant vineyards, thereby leaving a lasting mark on the landscape. Today a large number of churches along the Danube demonstrate the long tradition of Christianity.

These are linked to one another by the themed routes departing from a small exhibition at the Melk Association of Culture and Museums (‘Kulturund Museumsverein Melk’).

You can find more information at www.kirchen-am-fluss.at, where you can also see churches that are inaccessible or hard to get to.

Protestant tracks The Reformation found its way in the 16th century to the Wachau as well.

The new doctrine initially met with approval mainly among aristocratic land owners and the burghers, but later almost the entire population converted to Protestantism. Several years after the Agenda (the church service edict) came into force in 1571, the Protestants were forced into illegality. The Patent of Tolerance permitted Protestant belief once again from 1781.

Today the Evangelische Heilandskirche in Krems, consecrated in 1913, and the Erlöserkirche consecrated in 1959 for the parish of Melk-Scheibbs (Lutheran Church AB and Reformed Church HB) are places of worship for the Protestant community. In 2010 the Protestant Community Centre opened in Melk. In Spitz the remains of the Protestant chapel in the castle and the ‘Pastorenturm’ in the cemetery offer evidence of Protestantism, and in Förthof there is an inscription in the wooden pulpit in the local chapel.

A visit to the Schallaburg is also recommended in the quest for Protestant memorials. The Melk Association of Culture and Museums (‘Kultur- und Museumsverein Melk’) also has information on this episode in the history of the Wachau in its display.

|

33

34

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Melk Abbey

It towers over the town and the Danube on a high cliff, visible from afar and imposingly large: since the Babenberg Margrave Leopold II gave his castle and church on the cliffs above Melk to the Benedictine monks in 1089, Melk Abbey has become a spiritual and cultural centre for Austria. A school was founded here in the 12th century and the foundation laid for the abbey’s still unique library. The magnificent sun-yellow Baroque building, which reflects the significance and power of the monastery and stands as a classic example of the high Baroque period was built between 1702 and 1736 to a design

by Jakob Prandtauer. Today 23 parishes are associated with the monastery.

It hosts a secondary school with almost a thousand school students. Melk Abbey is a set point on the itineraries of tourists from all over the world.

Information on Melk Abbey 3390 Melk, Abt-Berthold-Dietmayr-Straße 1 Tel +43 (0) 2752 555 232 Email tours@stiftmelk.at kultur@stiftmelk.at www.stiftmelk.at

Highlights for visitors are: the Imperial Staircase (‘Kaiserstiege’), the Marble Hall (‘Marmorsaal’) and the abbey library, the frescoes with Paul Troger’s inimitable blue, the abbey church and the view of the Danube from the terraces. Finally the Abbey park, spread over several levels, enchants visitors with its frescoed garden pavilion, the ‘Little Garden of Paradise’, an alley of 250-year-old lime trees and a number of exhibits by contemporary artists.

Every spring the abbey is also the venue for the globally renowned Melk Abbey International Baroque Days (‘Internationale Barocktage Stift Melk’), where Baroque ensembles from all over the world can be experienced in a historic setting. Numerous other concerts and cultural events are staged at Melk Abbey all year round. (www.stiftmelk.at)

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

35

The Abbey This magnificent 320-metre-long Baroque building was built in the 18th century to plans by Jakob Prandtauer. The ‘Marmorsaal’ (marble hall) and abbey library, decorated with outstanding inlays and holding some 100,000 books today, making it one of the finest in the country, are decorated with grandiose ceiling frescoes by Paul Troger. The abbey church, a classic example of the high Baroque style, has an impressive barrel vault and 64-metre-high drum cupola, each with frescoes by Johann M. Rottmayr. The largest bell in Lower Austria is rung in the tower on Christian feast days. Also worth visiting is the ‘Unterwegs vom Gestern ins Heute’ (Travelling from yesterday to today) permanent exhibition, where much can be learnt about the history, cultural treasures and functions of the abbey. Melk Abbey is open for visits all year round.

The Abbey Park It is a work of art in itself. To appreciate it, it takes times – as for the abbey itself. This is because the Abbey Park, arranged over several levels, is an exquisite example of garden design artistry on an intact Baroque ground plan. The eyecatcher and dominant element is the garden pavilion with its exotic frescoes. In front of it is a wide variety of roses, which underscore the Baroque playfulness of the pavilion even more when they are flowering.

Although a large part of the planting dates from the 19th century, new impetus has been added in the course of recent years. Modern ‘talking stones’ for example, a ‘Benedictine path’ for meditation, a drinking water fountain consisting of a petrified tree and fire pit. The ‘Little Garden of Paradise’ (‘Paradiesgärtlein’) stretches back to the early days of the order, being based on a gardening book called ‘De Cultura Hortorum’ by the Benedictine Abbot Walahfrid Strabo in the 9th century.

The ‘Wachaulabor’ In the Northern Bastion, the recently adapted entrance area to Melk Abbey and its garden, students from the abbey secondary school have put their own exhibition on display. The title of the think tank is ‘Wachaulabor’ (‘Wachau laboratory’) – a critical dispute between the past and a potential future for the Wachau, as the school students might envisage it. www.wachaulabor.stiftsgymnasium-melk.org

Useful information History and stories Books conceal secrets, and these can be dangerous. This is the message in the bestseller ‘The Name of the Rose’ by Italian scholar and essayist Umberto Eco. However, his novel is based not in the library at Melk Abbey, but in the fictional manuscripts of supposed chronicles by a 13th century monk, Adso of Melk. He was a novice to Franciscan friar William of Baskerville, travelling to the Apennines, and the novel’s story is set mainly in a Benedictine abbey there.

Another historical pointer leads from events in the Apennines to Melk.

The fact was that, in many 15th century monasteries, discipline became loose and harmony was shattered. Intrigues and disappearances were the order of the day, even in the Benedictine abbey at Melk, which was steeped in debt.

Indeed at the Council of Constance from 1414 to 1418, strict reformation of the monasteries was decreed, starting with Melk Abbey (henceforth known as the ‘Melk Reform’). Under the aegis of Abbot Nicholas Seyringer, who was despatched for this purpose from the Benedictine Monastery of San Benedetto in Subiaco near Rome, the Melk Reform became the basis for a broad movement of monastic reformation, with monks instructed to implement these in other monasteries as friars. Hence the Melk Reform encompassed Austria and all of southern Germany to the Black Forest.

36

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Schönbühel-Aggsbach

The two popular vacation spots of Aggsbach-Dorf and Schönbühel are principally known for the imposing ruins of Aggstein castle, which offer a wonderful view across the Danube, and the remarkable Schönbühel Castle. Its round fortified towers and red tiled roof attract the eye – as seen from the Danube – from some distance. However, being privately owned it is not open to the public. Not far away is a second remarkable building – the former Servite monastery. A special attraction here is the underground reproduction of the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem. Anyone wanting to visit either must notify the monastery in advance (www.kloster-schoenbuehel.at).

Besides visiting the cultural sights, a bicycle tour on the southern bank of the Wachau is recommended. The Danube Bike Trail (‘Donauradweg’) is now negotiable all the way from Melk to Mautern near Krems. www.aggsbach-dorf.at

Excursions into the natural hinterland, e.g. into the adjacent Dunkelsteinerwald, past distant meadows and fruit crops, require a certain level of physical condition. This is rewarded with wonderful views of and insights into the landscape, and marvelous solitude. This can also be enjoyed when hiking, of course. Stages 9 and 10 of the Wachau World Heritage Trail lead to the most beautiful places on the right bank of the Danube.

Excursion tips Hammer mills A working museum with a restored machine from the 16th century, the only one of its kind in central Europe. The hammer, bellows and a grinder here are driven by three waterwheels. The hammer mill outbuilding, a stone structure, is today used as the ‘Steinstadel Mineral Centre’. For opening times see: www.kartaeuserland.at

Aggstein castle ruins Spectacular backdrop for weddings, medieval feasts, an atmospheric Christmas market and nice surprises at Easter and on Mother’s and Father’s Day. Tel +43 (0) 2753 82 281 www.ruineaggstein.at

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

37

Useful information The Kuenrings

Aggstein castle ruins The former fortress of Aggstein perches above the Danube like a falcon’s nest, a romantic motif for artists and postcard photographers alike. Among the ruins it is easy to become fully immersed in the medieval world, the era of its builder Nizzo von Gobatsburg and the Kuenrings, who were supposed to protect the Danube trade route. Your flesh may well creep a little at the legend of the robber baron Scheck vom Wald, who put his captives on a rocky precipice, his ‘little rose garden’, and gave them a choice: jump or starve. Today medieval feasts are held here, torch-lit banquets in authentic costumes. Weddings also take place here either in the open air or in the knights’ hall.

Kirchen am Fluss Following the foundation of Aggsbach Charterhouse in the 14th century, the silent monks, the Carthusians, moved in. After the Turkish Wars and the Reformation, reconstruction and finally dissolution by Emperor Joseph II, a decorative monastery remains today. The richly decorated church with its Gothic arches and the Carthusian Museum with its unique exhibits are worth seeing.

Chains stretched above the Danube and malevolent ambushes – the ‘Dogs of Kuenring’ come off worse in legend than they do in history. The descendants of Azzo von Gobatsburg were not robber knights but loyal ministers for the most part, minions of the local princes. They came from Trier to Lower Austria in the 11th century with the then Margrave Leopold II. The Kuenrings settled in Aggstein Castle, in Dürnstein and in the Waldviertel among other places. They helped to defend, pacify and cultivate the region – and so laid the foundations for the flourishing of trade and agriculture. The history of their family and their donations is summarised on the 14th century ‘Zwettl Monastery Bearskin’. This demonstrates the significant role that the dynasty played in the security and development of Lower Austria, until it died out in the 16th century.

From 2013, the former Carthusian garden, where the monks’ cells stood, will be reopened as a garden of meditation.

A short excursion from the Charterhouse to the ‘Maria am grünen Anger’ (‘Mary on the Green’) Parish Church in Mauer is recommended.

Pilgrimages in the Wachau Schönbühel Monastery was a popular pilgrimage destination in the Wachau.

See page 39 for more information: Useful information.

Useful information The Carthusians The Order of the Carthusians was founded by St Bruno of Cologne in 1084 in the Chartreuse Mountains, near Grenoble, in the tradition of the great hermits.

The monks were expected to live in silence and solitude; their individual cells and small gardens were separated from one another and only connected by the cloister. Communal chanting in praise of God was permitted, but all types

of musical instrument were forbidden.

Austria’s Carthusian monasteries have since been abolished, but there are still over 20 monasteries to this strict order left in the world. The ARGE Kartäuserland working group and, in particular, the Aggsbach Association of Friends of the Carthusians (‘Verein der Freunde der Kartause Aggsbach’) are dedicated to documenting the silent order. In the Carthusian Museum (‘Kartäusermuseum’), the Association of Friends has collected records of the life of the or-

der’s founder and of the life and work of the Carthusians. Exhibits include original objects from today’s Carthusians and the chattels of a Carthusian cell at the Sélignac Charterhouse in France.

The wonderful effect of the worldfamous Chartreuse liqueurs, brewed from 130 herbs, can be sampled on site.

The monks’ liqueur is still made according to a recipe dating from 1605. www.kartaeuserland.at www.kartause.net

38

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Bergern im Dunkelsteinerwald

Three landscape areas come together in Bergern: Unterbergern with its vineyards is part of the Wachau landscape conservation area, whereas, geographically, Bergern is part of the Mostviertel and the Dunkelsteinerwald, which geologically belongs to the Waldviertel. In this expansive, mysterious forest region with its clearings and valleys, there are plenty of cultural treasures and special places to discover. The Ferdinandwarte, which can be reached on foot from the church square in Unterbergern in around 20 minutes, offers one of the finest views of the Danube. The Danube valley from Mautern in the east to Rossatz in the west can be easily seen from the wooded lookout point on the steeply sloping cliff.

www.bergern-dunkelsteinerwald.at

A reconstructed stone circle and numerous archaeological artefacts are reminders of the very first masters of these woods – the Celts. The stone circle precisely marks the beginning of winter, when the shadow of the south stone reaches the centre of the circle. From here it is just a few minutes to one of the main pilgrimage destinations in the region – the Baroque Maria Langegg Pilgrimage Church, its monastery and the Pilgrimage Museum.

Tips for your enjoyment All about the wild rose 12 different types of wild rose have been native to the Dunkelsteinerwald for centuries. Inhabitants and wild rose lovers concern themselves with their flowers and fruit – rose hips. The flowers are processed into liqueur, syrup and desserts – the hips are made into jams and liqueurs.

Tel +43 (0) 2752 80378 www.arge-dunkelsteinerwald.at

Geyersberg stone circle True-to-scale reproduction of a megalithic Celtic stone circle, representing a coalition of megalithic and Celtic culture.

Wachau World Heritage Site

Useful information Schönbühel Monastery and Maria Langegg Church When Count Starhemberg built the former Schönbühel Monaster y, he spared no effort in faithfully reproducing the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem. When the first monks of the Order of Servites were called here in 1666, they soon had their hands full, looking after worshippers of St Rosalia who flocked here after the plague at the end of the 17th century. Shortly beforehand

Matthäus Häring from Salzburg had taken a vow after his sick child had been cured and built a chapel in Maria Langegg.

Pilgrimages in the Wachau Since the early Middle Ages, Christians have made pilgrimages along the Way of St. James to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, in order to pray for forgiveness or mercy at the grave of St James. The Wachau stretch of the route between the Benedictine abbeys at Göttweig and Melk were regional highlights on the Austrian section of the pilgrimage trail. It passes through green vineyards to the Roman town of Mautern and on to the Ferdinandwarte lookout point. From Unterbergern, signposted routes lead past seven Celtic / Illyrian burial mounds to Maria Langegg pilgrimage church.

The former Servite monastery in Maria Langegg was already a popular site for mercy and miracle cures. Today a portable board guides you through four thematic tours of the church.

Tip: The Pilgrimage Museum is worth a visit and, among other things, provides an insight into other pilgrimage destinations in the Wachau and its environs. maria-langegg.kirche.at

|

39

Other miracle cures followed – in 1783 alone the parish chronicle tells of 381 miracles. Maria Langegg, the Church of ‘Mary, Salvation of the Sick’, became a place of mercy and miracle cures, and a busy pilgrimage route between the two churches was soon established.

Thousands of pilgrims came every year to the ‘Österreichischer Hilff- und Heylberg’ (Austrian Mountain of Aid and Salvation) in the Dunkelsteinerwald.

The pilgrimage trail still exists with its steps and 15 Baroque Rosary Stations between ‘Little Bethlehem’ in Schönbühel and Maria Langegg.

40

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Rossatz-Arnsdorf

At the end of March/beginning of April, when the apricots are blooming, a visit to Rossatz-Arnsdorf is an extraordinar y experience; after all, this is the largest apricot-growing locality in Austria. The existence of a special connection here between wine and Salzburg is a story in itself.

The people of Arnsdorf were subject to the Salzburg archbishops for almost a thousand years. ‘Rupertiwinzer’ is the name of an association of ten Arnsdorf vintners, which refers to the Patron Saint of the province of Salzburg and of the parish church in the village of Hofarnsdorf.

Sights worth visiting in the expansive community are the Roman fortification tower in Bacharnsdorf and the Roman road, one of the best-preserved Roman roads in Austria. More recent architectural jewels are Rossatz Castle and Hofarnsdorf Castle.

www.rossatz-arnsdorf.at

Anyone looking around the area and who wants to see the Danube river plains and vineyards can do so from the ‘Seekopf’. The 671-metre-high lookout point can be reached on foot via the Wachau World Heritage Trail; good footwear, sure-footedness and suitable physical condition are recommended. Three ferries connect Rossatz-Arnsdorf with Dürnstein, Weißenkirchen and Spitz on the opposite bank.

Tips for your enjoyment ‘Apricot Mile’ Trail network through the apricot orchards in Austria’s largest apricot growing locality. The western Apricot Mile runs from St Johann via Oberarnsdorf, Hofarnsdor f and Mitterarnsdor f to Bacharnsdorf. Rührsdorf, Rossatz and Rossatzbach are the villages on the eastern Apricot Mile.

Tel +43 (0) 2714 6217 www.marillenmeile.at

‘Rupertiwinzer’

Salmon breeders

Since 2003 the ‘Rupertiwinzer’ have stood for top quality Wachau wines from the best vineyards on the southern bank of the Danube, in association with the unique flair of the World Heritage Site. www.rupertiwinzer.at

Because of his passion for breeding Danube salmon (Huchen), Josef Fischer of the Fischer estate is also known as ‘Huchenpepi’. Tip: Wine tasting and visits to the fish farm. Tel +43 (0) 2714 6229 www.huchenfischer.at

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

41

Through forests and gardens Walks through the restored alluvial forests along the recently reconnected side branch of the Danube demonstrate the breadth of variety of animal and plant life here. Rare breeds of fish such as nase, streber and the famous Danube salmon have found a habitat and sanctuary here again.

A magnificent view of the river plain and northern bank of the Wachau can be enjoyed from the Panoramic Trail. Running along the edge of the woods from Rührsdorf to Rossatzbach, the trail is ideal for casual walkers.

Kirchen am Fluss A route of cultural and historical interest connects the churches of the community of Rossatz-Arnsdorf. It is also easy to travel by bicycle. The circuit begins near the Parish Church of Rossatz, which is Gothic with a Romanesque heart.

Next stop is the subsidiary church in St. Lorenz, which can be visited every Friday between 5 pm and 6 pm. The Gothic Chapel of St Catherine in Mitterarnsdorf can be admired at any time. St Rupert’s in neighbouring Hofarnsdorf has an impressive stone pulpit and side-nave images by ‘Kremser Schmidt’.

Pilgrimages in the Wachau Last stop on the trail through the community of Rossatz is the subsidiary church in St. Johann im Mauerthale (key sometimes available in the house opposite).

According to the story, because of this pilgrimage destination the Devil wanted to dam up the Danube, in order to flood the church. The Wachau railway today runs through a leftover of this ‘failed’ damming attempt – the tunnel through the so-called Devil’s Wall (‘Teufelsmauer’) is the shortest railway tunnel in Austria.

Useful information Wachau LIFE Nature project Tributary branches that flow all year round are a rarity in the Danube. The three former branch remnants of the Venedigerau and Pritzenau river plains, as well as the Schopperstatt, Anzug and Sportplatz pools, are now linked once more to the Danube and offer spawning grounds for numerous species of fish.

Danube salmon, Danube roach, striped ruffe and nase have established habitats

and sanctuaries here again. Threatened species such as kingfishers, beavers, dragonflies and amphibians also benefit from the interlinking of bodies of water

between Rührsdorf and Rossatz. Walks in the river plain areas will demonstrate the wealth of flora and fauna. www.life-wachau.at

42

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Mautern an der Donau

Mautern’s roots stretch far back into Roman times. It was once the site of a Roman military camp. It was also the Romans who brought the art of wine-growing to the ‘limes’, the northern border of the Roman Empire on the Danube. The environs of the Roman settlement of Favianis, as Mautern was then called, provided perfect conditions for this, and the wine cellars that originated in Roman times are still safe from flooding. For this reason St Severin, who took up residence near Mautern in the fifth century CE, called his hermitage ‘Ad Vineas’ (‘At the Vineyards’).

Today award-winning innkeepers serve their guests the best from the kitchen and the cellar, between Roman walls and vineyards. Traces of the early vintners can be admired in the Favianis-St. Severin Roman Museum.

www.mautern.at

Mautern has always been on an important trade route: in the 15th century a wooden bridge – the first bridge over the Danube in Lower Austria – connected the town to Stein. Today’s bridge over the Danube, a steel-framed structure, was built in 1895. It needed to be partially rebuilt after the Second World War. In the atmospheric town centre you can amble past attractive houses once owned by the wealthy burghers. Here, at the gateway to the Wachau, is the home of the Wachau traditional costume. Those who enjoy admiring golden bonnets and Kalmuck jackets can do so in the Costume Museum (‘Trachtenmuseum’).

Tips for your enjoyment Nikolaihof The Nikolaihof is the oldest wine estate in Austria and one of the top culinary addresses in the Wachau.

The multiple-award-winning wines are pressed in accordance with the biodynamic standards of the Demeter Association and sometime processed using an historic wine press. The modern guest house is only a short distance away.

Tel +43 (0) 2732 82901 | www.nikolaihof.at

Landhaus Bacher Lisl Wagner-Bacher’s ‘Landhaus Bacher’ is one of the premium culinary venues the world over. Highly-awarded cuisine, consisting of exquisite ingredients, graced with regional and Mediterranean accents and served in a relaxed yet elegant ambience and in an idyllic restaurant garden.

Tel +43 (0) 2732 82 937 www.landhaus-bacher.at

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

43

Useful information Severin of Noricum

Roman Museum Years ago this was the end of the world. On the other side of the Danube – on the far side of the ‘limes’, the imperial boundary – lived the barbarians, in impenetrable woodland. Many of the archaeological finds in Mautern are indicative of the lengthy presence of the Romans and of the fortified settlement of Favianis, on which Mautern was later built. The Roman Museum in the Baroque grain store displays the carefully collected finds of glasses and vases, jewellery and clay vessels. Especially entertaining for children is the ‘Roman room’ with faithfully recreated murals and the kitchen with genuine fifth century tableware. www.roemerhalle.at

Golden bonnets Many of the golden bonnets (‘Goldhauben’) that can be admired in Mautern Costume Museum (‘Trachtenmuseum’) in the old Chapel of St Margaret are not quite as old, but are no less culturally valuable.

St Severin A themed route through Mautern takes visitors on the trail of St Severin (see Useful Information). Start by the Roman Hall.

Kirchen am Fluss Besides Mautern Parish Church, a visit to the church in Hundsheim is also recommended, although it is not always open.

He probably came from Italy. He is also alleged to have been of noble descent, and yet Severin of Noricum opted for life as a monk. The saint ultimately chose ‘Ad Vineas’ as a place of retreat, a hamlet in the vineyards of Mautern, then called Favianis.

As Eugippius, his student, reported on the life of this cross-cultural man, he founded his monastery here and, from his hermitage, arranged the distribution of food and clothing and brought about the release of numerous prisoners of war.

44

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Golden bonnets & Kalmuck jackets The Wachau festival costume is one of the few traditional Austrian costumes that have continued to be worn by the population without interruption since emerging in the Biedermeier period. The golden bonnet (‘Goldhaube’) decorates the ladies’ festival costume. The Kalmuck jacket is typical for the men’s costume.

Silk and brocade Everyday dress for women in the Wachau is a blue printed dirndl, which is worn with a white blouse with ruched sleeves and a dark blue apron. On festival days and special occasions, a Wachau woman will put on her festival costume. Lightly patterned or textured silk or brocade material is used for this elegant costume. With the long, ample skirt the woman will wear a spencer-type top with puffed sleeves, which, like the collar, are edged with frills. A fluted or lace inset will be worn in the neckline.

The apron is made of a matching solid-colour material.

Golden bonnet An adornment of the festival costume is the golden bonnet (‘Goldhaube’), an elaborate handmade creation of brocade, gold braid and trim. The golden bonnet, which is also part of the local costume in other regions, arrived in the Wachau around 200 years ago. The wives of the then prosperous citizens, boatmasters and wine-growers made these works of art.

Today only a small number of bonnet makers have this skill.

Check, mother of pearl and feather grass The Kalmuck jacket is typical everyday dress for men in the Wachau. The robust material this jacket is made from was supposedly used as saddle cloth by Kalmyk horsemen and so was imported into the region. Impressed by the quality of the material, the boatmen made the jackets for their everyday workwear out of it. The vintners were also soon convinced of its properties. In its typical style – a small white / brown, checked pattern – and mother of pearl buttons, it has since become part of the traditional Wachau costume. It is still worn with black trousers and a white cotton shirt. On their heads Wachau men wear a round, black hat with a short curved brim, decorated with feather grass. This protected type of grass is only allowed to be picked for use with the Wachau costume.

Religious and secular festivals The people of the Wachau can be seen in their traditional costumes at traditional festivals in particular, for example at events that unite the religious and the secular, such as harvest festivals or wine christenings.

Wachau people also like celebrating events such as the midsummer festival in costume.

Buying tips Kaufhaus Gurtner, Hauptstraße 26, Spitz Costume fabric: Kalmuck design & materials: Brigitta Lipold - LebensKunstRaum Krems

Eisentürgasse 3-5, Krems | www.lipold.at Wachau costumes: Gerda Gartler - Mode nach Maß, Steiner Landstraße 24,

Krems | www.meisterstrasse.at/mode-nach-mass Golden bonnets (on request): Elfriede Kristament, Mautern | Tel. +43 (0) 2732 72643

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

The joy of getting out and about Wachau World Heritage Trail You can experience the loveliest views of the Wachau on foot on the Wachau World Heritage Trail. The 180-kilometre-long hiking trail connects every community in the region. The stretch connects three monasteries, 20 castles, ruins and stately homes, the wine-growing regions of the Wachau, the Jauerling Nature Park and the Dunkelsteinerwald (interactive tour planner at www.welterbesteig.at).

The Wachau World Heritage Trail is divided into 14 stages and walkers can hike in both directions. Three ferries (Rossatz-Dürnstein, St. Lorenz-Weißenkirchen, Arnsdorf-Spitz) take walkers from one bank to the other.

Tip for geocachers: caches are hidden on some stages. Information at www.wachau.at.

By bike The Danube Bike Trail (‘Donauradweg’) is one of the most famous continuous bike trails in Europe and one of its prettiest stretches runs on either side of the river here in the Wachau.

Peaceful village streets line the north and south banks. Cycle ferries connect the two banks. Anyone with a little more time can discover little jewels tucked away in the hinterland on road and mountain bike stretches.

Practical tip: bikes, e-bikes and even Segways can be rented from many locations.

Walking and discovering Whether you fancy a gentle stroll along the banks of the Danube or a stimulating hike tracking down apricots, there are numerous trails for casual walkers, as well as a range of themed trails, to explore. They run through apricot orchards and vineyards, over panoramic peaks and to places of power, for example. Anyone who wants to can also explore the trails in the company of llamas or donkeys.

Fun in the water Right on the Danube and on an old branch of it there are beaches for summer refreshment. Anyone choosing a sandy beach for bathing on the banks of the Danube should ask locals about any prevailing strong currents. Rowing and canoeing are also options on the Danube.

Wachau Waterskiing Club, Aggsbach Dorf, www.wsc-wachau.at Wachau Watersport Union, Dürnstein, www.wsw.at Kanu Wachau canoeing, Dürnstein-Oberloiben, www.kanu-wachau.at

Golf & climbing There are three golf courses in close proximity: the 9-hole Maria Taferl course, the Lengenfeld GC with two 18-hole courses and the St- Pölten GC near Schloss Goldegg.

The Maria Taferl golf course is close to the famous pilgrimage basilica standing high above the Danube. www.gc-mariataferl.at | www.golflengenfeld.at The climbing park (‘Klettergarten’) in Dürnstein is a good place for learning and practising rock climbing. Climbing is only permitted in the climbing park provided. www.alpenverein.at/krems/Wachauklettern

45

46

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Göttweig Abbey

Information on Göttweig Abbey 3511 Stift Göttweig Tel +43 (0) 2732 855810 Email info@stiftgoettweig.at www.stiftgoettweig.at

Anyone travelling upstream on the Danube does not need a map to know where the Wachau World Heritage Site begins. High on a hill stands Göttweig Benedictine Abbey like a beaming lighthouse. Bishop Altmann von Passau founded Göttweig Abbey as a reform monastery in 1083. Soon after, the first Benedictine monks took up residence, staying true to their vocation through all the chaos of history until today. In 2000 Göttweig Abbey was recognised

by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site for being one of the most prominent artistic treasures in the region. This heritage is felt everywhere, and even sceptics are struck with a slight sense of awe when they step onto the Imperial Staircase with the fascinating sky blue of the ceiling frescoes by Paul Troger high above. The Baroque marvel largely originates from the pen of the leading architect of the day, Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt. The only parts of the medieval monastery complex still in evidence are in the Chapel of St Erentrudis and the church choir. Today the abbey is a treasure chest, a place for preserving uniqueness. The collection of prints and drawings – the largest in Austria after the Albertina – contains some 30,000 folios by European masters. Browsing through Göttweig Abbey: The Department of Image Science at the Danube University Krems has digitised them and made them available on the Internet since 2006. The temporary exhibitions about the Wachau and other subjects are also of interest. Anyone wanting to know how the 45 or so monks organise their day is warmly invited to visit the ‘Monastery Life’ permanent exhibition. The Abbey restaurant, church, courtyard and various rooms in the Abbey are venues for atmospheric concerts and events.

Wachau World Heritage Site

Apricot culture Centuries of experience in forestry and horticulture and the unusual location in the midst of nature helped provide the Benedictine monks from Göttweig Abbey with considerable expertise in arboriculture. Today the Abbey has a sustainable range in its woodland resources. One species of note is the sequoia population planted in the vicinity of Paudorf. In the arboretum, which was only established in 1980, more than 50 guest tree species from all over the world can be admired. This is where the Göttweig forest school (‘Göttweiger Waldschule’) was established, bringing both young and old closer to the essential forest. An especially fruitful wood lies right next to the enclosure: an apricot orchard with old varieties from the Wachau. This orchard cannot be visited, but you can learn all about the joys of the apricot on the ‘Marillen-Erlebnisweg’ (Apricot Experience Trail) in adjoining Angern. Along the trail are apricot trees up to 17 metres high owned by the Weinhof Aufreiter in Angern. The views to Göttweig Abbey and a visit to the Wetterkreuzkirche above Hollenburg are rewarding. www.marillenweg.at

Monastery life In the course of its 900-year history, the Benedictine monastery has not only been active in looking after over 30 parishes in the region, some of which are up to an hour’s drive away. It has also established itself as a spiritual and cultural centre. More about this can be learnt in the ‘Monastery Life’ permanent exhibition where visitors can follow the daily routine of the 45 or so monks: from vigil at 6 am to vespers at 6 pm, guests are also invited to pray. ‘Temporary Monastery Experience’ (‘Kloster auf Zeit’) is the name given to the opportunity for men to spend a few days living a monastic life. Retreats for men and women with the opportunity of talking to a monk are very popular. There are also rooms available, for a holiday with a difference. Overnight stays with breakfast can be booked.

|

47

48

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Getting around without a car The car can have a rest during the holidays. Especially in the Wachau, where it is easy for anyone to get to where they want on an excursion thanks to the ecological mobility plan.

Any convenient combination is possible using the chosen method of transportation: from rented bike to Danube boat, or bus, Wachau railway or ferry, to e-bike or Segway.

Mobility information available at: www.n-mobil.at

Wachau World Heritage Trail Walking is certainly the most intimate and enjoyable way to get to know a place. The Wachau World Heritage Trail provides views and insights at every place along its 180-km length.

The continuously signposted 14 stages of the long-distance trail and the seven stages of the Jauerling Circuit show a fascinating contrast between the rolling vineyards and the rough, wooded uplands.

There is an interactive walking map with GIS routes at: www.welterbesteig.at

Danube Bike Trail The course of the Danube Bike Trail is just a short distance from the Danube.

It runs almost continuously along the north and south banks of the river on dedicated bike trails.

Just look at the signposts to find where you are – for excursions into the tributary valleys and to other bike trails as well. www.donau.com

Nextbike You can use the nextbike bike rental system to borrow handy three-gear bikes at any time from around 40 lending stations in the Wachau – on either bank of the Danube – and return them to any nextbike station.

Register with a bank account or credit card. One hour’s bike rental costs 1.00 euro, 24 hours costs 5.00 euros. www.nextbike.at

E-mobil ‘e-mobil in niederösterreich’ is a large-scale initiative in Lower Austria. The Wachau is one of the leading regions involved.

City or mountain bikes, supported by environmentally friendly e-motors, can be borrowed from a number of locations and recharged at five public charging stations. In addition, Segways can be rented in Emmersdorf and Spitz. Guided tours (e.g. to Aggstein castle ruins) are offered. www.wachau.at/e-mobil

Wachau World Heritage Site

Bus connections Both banks of the Danube can be accessed non-stop from the train stations at Krems and Melk by two bus lines: the south bank in two-hour intervals (WL2 bus), the north bank in hourly intervals (WL1 bus). The Spitzer Graben is also connected as far as Mühldorf (WL5 bus). Request buses run at weekends to Maria Laach and into the Jauerling Nature Park (WL7 bus) or to Göttweig Abbey (WL4 bus) from Easter to October 26th (minimum of one passenger). www.vor.at

Ferries There are no bridges in the Wachau between Mautern and Melk. The opposite bank of the Danube is reached by ferry. At Spitz and Weißenkirchen there is a car ferry, at Dürnstein only a bike ferry. A trip on the water taxi is also possible from Dürnstein: by booking in advance you can travel to any destination; there is also the option of a vineyard trip including wine tasting at places on the way. www.wachau.at

Boat The docking times of the two major shipping lines, Brandner Schiffahrt and DDSG, are coordinated with the trains and buses. A grandiose view of the World Heritage landscape is offered from the white Danube ships. There are stops between Krems and Melk in Dürnstein, Weißenkirchen, Spitz, on request in Aggsbach Dorf and at the new shipping pier at the centre of Emmersdorf. Also available are various boat and rail combination packages. www.brandner.at | www.ddsg-blue-danube.at

Wachau railway The Wachau railway is a special gem. The line, which is over 100 years old, runs through the middle of the vineyards and along steep hillsides.

Since being taken over by the government of Lower Austria, the new Wachau Railway, with nostalgic, themed and chartered trips, is being relaunched as a tourist experience railway at Easter 2012. www.noevog.at

Slow trains Completely stress-free yet family-friendly and full of information: the KremsWachau Express chugs from the shipping pier at Krems through the car-free pedestrian zone to the Kunstmeile.

In Dürnstein, besides the historic centre, the vineyards up to Loiben are also en route. At Melk, a slow train runs between the shipping pier and the abbey. www.kuenringer.at | www.heurigenexpress.at www.wachaubus.at/busse/melk-wachau-express-bummelzug

|

49

50

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Good neighbours Good neighbours are precious. The people of the Wachau know this too and are rightly proud of theirs. Upstream and downstream, in the Dunkelsteinerwald and the Southern Waldviertel to the south, there are cultural treasures and beauties of nature that reward a visit by anyone coming to the Wachau.

Anyone who sails against the flow for long enough in the Wachau will end up in the Nibelungengau. Its name comes from one of the most magnificent pieces of literature in Europe, the ‘Nibelungenlied’ or Song of the Nibelungs, which made Rüdiger von Bechelarn, and hence Pöchlarn, famous.

The Nibelung Memorial (‘Nibelungendenkmal’) at the Danube Pier remembers the legendary lords of Bechelarn. Clearly documented in history, on the other hand, is the painter Oskar Kokoschka, a famous son of the town. Revues and cabarets are held in April every year at the ‘Ybbsiade’ festival, at the town of Ybbs lying upstream.

On the other bank of the Danube, Artstetten Castle was the highly artistic resting place of heir apparent Franz Ferdinand, who was murdered in Sarajevo, and his wife Sophie. The Baroque castle and small museum at Leiben are worth seeing.

High above the Danube lies the most important pilgrimage site in Lower Austria – the Baroque jewel of Maria Taferl, with its miraculous image and comfort-giving guest houses. Just a short walk from Melk and easily visible from the Westautobahn is the Schallaburg Renaissance castle. The Dunkelsteinerwald sits in the hinterland of the southern bank of the Danube.

Useful information The Nibelungengau Between the Strudengau in the west and the Wachau World Heritage Site in the east lies the Nibelungengau.

The name of this wide valley between Ybbs and Melk has its origins in the ‘Nibelungenlied’, the Song of the Nibelungs. This was composed at the start of the 13th century by an anonymous poet from the Danube region and partly takes place in the Nibelungengau. The best-known excursion destinations are the Maria Taferl pilgrimage site, Kokoschka’s town of Pöchlarn and Schloss Artstetten with the Archduke Franz Ferdinand Museum. In addition thousands of lights floating on the Danube and hills romantically lit by torches make the Midsummer Festival each year an unforgettable experience. www.sonnenwende.at

Drift on the shimmering waves of the Danube and enjoy the beauty of the countryside – and suddenly you are in Krems and the Kremstal.

What the river Krems picks up from the ancient rock in the rough Waldviertel it deposits on the slopes close to the Danube.

The ‘Fanny vom Galgenberg’ (‘Venus of Galgenberg’), a female statuette over 30,000 years old, and the Gudenus cave near Burg Hartenstein attest to the long history of human occupation. This cave is where the oldest musical instrument in Austria was found, a Stone Age bone whistle.

In the Kremstal and Traisental, white Burgundies, Muscatels and Sauvignon Blancs thrive side by side with Riesling and Veltliner.

When looking to find out more about wine, a sidestep to the nearby Langenlois is worthwhile, where leading architect Steven Holl has placed the ‘Loisium’ aluminium cube in the midst of the vineyards. A great deal of knowledge about the vine juice is served here, something that is always welcome.

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

51

The Danube: Austria’s largest river The Danube occupies a special place among rivers in Europe. It is a silvery-blue leitmotif meandering through Austria, where it passes through three federal states.

At a total length of 2,850 kilometres – 350 of which are in Austria – the Danube is the second longest river in Europe after the Volga.

As the Danube wends its way through the ancient granite and gneiss, it gives rise to picturesque narrows – such as the ‘Schlögener Schlinge’ (Schlögener Loop) in Upper Austria.

Hereafter the flow becomes more gentle, until its bed is constricted again near Grein in the Strudengau, until the stone terraces along the banks in the Wachau are finally raised up. Many of the best Rieslings and Grüne Veltliner in Austria thrive here.

Bright colours, distant views, vineyards and fields distinguish the Tullner Donauraum (Tulln Danube) Region, which stretches from the Roman town of Traismauer to Korneuburg and Klosterneuburg on the outskirts of Vienna.

To the north, near Krems, the Wagram winegrowing region stretches out, where superb white wines thrive in fertile loess soil. This section of the Danube is renowned for the summer stage performances at Tulln, Stockerau and Korneuburg. Inns with resonating names that are renowned far and wide serve up regional delicacies To the east of Vienna lies the Römerland Carnuntum – Marchfeld (Carnuntum – Marchfeld Roman Country) Region which carries you off into fabled lands. Carnuntum Archaeological Park, one of the leading excursion destinations in Lower Austria, presents this in an authentic and atmospheric manner. Baroque lust for life is evident in the Schloss Hof und Schloss Niederweiden festival palaces in Marchfeld. The DonauAuen National Park, one of the last great river floodplains maintained in central Europe, is impressive. The Carnuntum winegrowing region is renowned for its great red wines. Cyclists can use numerous rental and e-bike stations to discover an excellent network of routes.

Shortly after Hainburg, near the ‘Thebener Pforte’ (‘Theben Gateway’) the Danube reaches the Pannonian Basin and leaves Austria behind.

Useful information The ‘hard-won’ river plain In the early 1980s a Danube power station was due to be built in the valuable river plain landscape near Hainburg. What followed was an unprecedented act of civil disobedience: in December 1984 thousands of people of all ages and backgrounds occupied the ‘Hainburger Au’. Thanks to the massive, widespread opposition, the power station project was successfully prevented.

In 1996 a national agreement to establish the Donau-Auen National Park was finally signed by the Republic of Austria and the federal states of Lower Austria and Vienna.

52

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

Around the Wachau Schallaburg Renaissance castle An excursion to the south is worthwhile. Travelling just five kilometres in this compass direction is enough to become immersed in the flamboyance of Italian palazzi. It was a Losenstein man who redeveloped the medieval palace into the most beautiful Renaissance castle north of the Alps as a base of power. It is a unique architectural combination of a residential castle from Romanesque times, a Gothic chapel, the old armoury and arcade courtyard with its unique terra cotta decoration.

The ambience of the Schallaburg is steeped in history and offers an impressive frame-work for high-calibre annual exhibitions on cultural, ethnographic and contemporary subjects. A walk in the historical garden offers fascinating insights into Renaissance landscape architecture. A programme of events for the whole family, where ‘Most’ or apple cider plays a major role as the symbol of the region, tempts you to keep coming back. www.schallaburg.at

St Pölten cultural district St Pölten is one of the oldest towns in Austria yet also the youngest federal state capital. St Pölten was only elevated to the position of Lower Austrian capital in 1986. The architectural contrasts here are particularly impressive: the town centre is characterised by the Baroque and art nouveau styles.

The Town Hall represents a cross-section of Austrian architectural history – making it a good starting point for a walk around the town: a Romanesque arch, Gothic alcoves, a Renaissance tower, a Baroque facade and the Imperial stucco ceiling in the Mayor’s room.

Above the Herrenplatz, head towards the fresco-decorated cathedral church, the magnificent Baroque palace of the English lady, the Carmelite courtyard, the historical ‘Löwen’ pharmacy and the decorative art nouveau houses.

You will be surprised by the contemporary architecture in the government district and the cultural district. This is the location of the modern Landhaus, the State Museum, the Festival Hall and the ‘Klangturm’. www.st-poelten.gv.at

Wachau Mobility Day An innovative mobility concept makes use of a vehicle in the Wachau totally unnecessary. With the Wachau one-day travel card (‘Tageskarte Wachau’), convenient ecological transport is available to every place and sight.

The Lower Austria CARD Discover the treasures of Lower Austria with the NÖ-CARD (Lower Austria CARD) Tel +43 (0) 1 535 0505 www.niederoesterreich-card.at

Holders of the Lower Austria CARD can obtain these one-day travel cards for free once a year between March 31st and October 28th, enabling free travel for a whole day on the convenient low-floor buses of Wachau lines WL 1 to WL 7, or use of the three Danube ferries to easily switch banks. At Spitz and Weißenkirchen there is a car ferry, with a bike ferry at Dürnstein.

Tageskarte Wachau tickets are available in the Wachau information centres at Krems-Stein and Melk and in the information offices at Spitz and Emmersdorf.

All timetables are at www.n-mobil.at.

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

53

Schloss Grafenegg Some 15 km from Krems, the sky stands high above the vineyards of Wagram and turrets and battlements tower upwards in the midst of the green of the landscape garden. And right next to this are the purist concrete lines of the Wolkenturm open air stage, built in 2007, and the Auditorium Grafenegg concert hall.

Just as the romantic history of Schloss Grafenegg merges with the contemporary concert building, surmounting all contradictions, so the programme for the annual Grafenegg Music Festival combines old and new, history and modernity. The programme of the opening on 23rd August features the oratorio “The Creation” by Joseph Haydn. The Music Summer festival will for the first time present concerts focusing on a variety of themes, including “Una Notte Italiana”, “Hungaria”, “A Baroque Feast” and “Symphonic Hollywood”.

Toni Mörwald is on the culinary “con-ductor’s stand” at Schloss Grafenegg; those wishing to let their palates join in the song will find their place here with the award-winning chef and his dinner suggestions. www.grafenegg.com

The Gardens of Lower Austria 33 gardens – from bucolic herb gardens to imperial castle parks – are jointly presented as the ‘Gardens of Lower Austria’. Members include garden attractions such as the show and model gardens of ‘DIE GARTEN TULLN’, Lower Austria’s permanent horticultural show, and the splendid castle parks such as those of Grafenegg, Schloss Hof, Artstetten, the Schallaburg and the Rosenburg. The atmospheric gardens of Melk Abbey, Altenburg, Seitenstetten, Zwettl and Klosterneuburg are simultaneously experimental garden projects.

The Donau-Auen National Park, with its ‘Schlossinsel’ river plain experience park, is one of the last great river floodplains maintained in Europe, as is the Amethyst Welt Maissau with its themed gardens. Also worth a visit, in nearby Schiltern near Langenlois, are the ‘Kittenberger Experience Gardens’ and the ‘Noah’s Ark’ show garden, where for the most part old cultivars and rarities thrive. www.diegaerten.at

Reading tips Edition ARAMO (Ed.): «Welter besteig Wachau» Ein literarischer Wanderbegleiter (A literary walking guide) 14 authors walk the 14 stages of the Wachau World Heritage Trail and set down their personal impressions. Contributors include: Clemens Haipl, Lorenz Langenegger, Urs Mannhart, Mieze Medusa, Angelika Reitzer, Julian Schutting and Christoph Simon. www.aramo.at

Walter Grond (Ed.): «Draußen in der Wachau» Der etwas andere Reisebegleiter (The alternative travel guide) The ‘alternative literary travel guide’ entitled ‘Out and About in the Wachau’ takes an unconventional literary look at the places of longing and cliches, sights and trails in the Wachau. Contents include Peter Turrini telling of his experiences with Billy Wilder on their trip through the Wachau together. www.haymonverlag.at

Wanderverlag Rother (Ed.): «Welterbesteig Wachau und Jauerling-Runde» At the beginning of October 2011 renowned German publishing house Wanderverlag Rother published a new travel guide, ‘Wachau World Heritage Trail and the Jauerling Circuit’. Clear tour information, informative stage profiles, colourful walking maps to show the route, and brief but precise route descriptions make all the suggested tours easy and straightforward to follow. www.amazon.at

54

|

Wachau World Heritage Site

We recommend: Best of Wachau Under the name ‘Best of Wachau’, the best tourist businesses in the Wachau come together to offer you authentic Wachau experience of the highest level.

At these accommodations, awarded with the quality seal, you expect the prettiest and most impressive hotels, decorative, authentic private rooms, rest and relaxation on a farm holiday, award-winning gourmet cooking and traditional inn culture.

This award is only given to businesses that commit themselves to: continually improving their quality, constantly developing their offering, and not forgetting what it means to come from the Wachau – even while striving to serve future needs. ‘Best of’ businesses are selected according to a range of criteria in the categories of atmosphere, culinary and beverage culture as well as guest service, and are visibly recognised for these. | www.bestof-wachau.at Aggsbach-Dorf Hotel-Restaurant Donauterrasse **** No. 19 | Tel +43 (0) 2753 8221

Dürnstein

Maria Laach am Jauerling Gasthof Grüner Baum *** Am Hauptplatz 3 | Tel +43 (0) 2712 8303

Mautern an der Donau

Restaurant Loibnerhof  Unterloiben 7 | Tel +43 (0) 2732 82890

Landhaus Bacher ****  Südtirolerplatz 2 | Tel +43(0)2732/82937

Hotel Schloss Dürnstein *****  No. 2 | Tel +43 (0) 2711 212

Nikolaihof Wachau & ad vineas Guest House Nikolaig.3/Kainzstr.14 | Tel+43(0)273282901

Gartenhotel Pfeffel **** | Zur Himmelsstiege 122 | Tel +43 (0) 2711 206 Café-Konditorei Schmidl No. 20-21 | Tel +43 (0) 2711 224

Emmersdorf Bauer & Wirt Langthaler Pömling 14 | Tel +43 (0) 2752 71427 Hotel-Restaurant Donauhof **** No. 40 | Tel +43 (0) 2752 71777 Hotel-Restaurant ‘Zum schwarzen Bären’ ****

No. 7 | Tel +43 (0) 2752 71249

Krems an der Donau Restaurant Zum Kaiser von Österreich Körnermarkt 9 | Tel +43 (0) 2732 86001 Gourmethotel ‘Am Förthof’ Förthofer Donaulände 8 | Tel +43(0)2732/83345 Hotel und Gasthof Klinglhuber **** Wienerstraße 2 | Tel +43 (0) 2732 82143 Steigenberger Hotel and Spa **** Am Goldberg 2 | Tel +43 (0) 2732 71010

Melk

Spitz an der Donau Terrassenrestaurant Strandcafe Donaulände 7 | Tel +43 (0) 2713 2320 Altes Schiffsmeisterhaus *** Hinterhaus 16 | Tel +43 (0) 2713 2323 Cafe Bruckner Hauptstraße 9 | Tel +43 (0) 2713 2329 Barock-Landhof Burkhardt **** Kremser Straße 19 | Tel +43 (0) 2713 2356 Hotel Garni - Weinberghof **** Am Hinterweg 17 | Tel +43 (0) 2713 2939 ‘Goldenes Schiff’ Inn *** Mittergasse 5 | Tel +43 (0) 2713 2326

Hotel-Restaurant zur Post **** Linzer Straße 1 | Tel +43 (0) 2752 52345

‘Haus Oestreicher’ *** Hauptstraße 26 | Tel +43 (0) 2713 2317

Hotel Wachau ****  Am Wachberg 3

Pension 1000Eimerberg *** Marktstraße 3 | Tel +43 (0) 2713 2334

Tel +43 (0) 2752 52531 Cafe Konditorei Mistlbacher Hauptstraße 1 | Tel +43 (0) 2752 52350

Mühldorf Gasthof Weißes Rössl *** Markt 17 | Tel +43 (0) 2713 8257 Burg Oberranna **** Oberranna 1 | Tel +43 (0) 2713 8221

Rossatz-Arnsdorf Landgasthaus Winzerstüberl Rührsdorf 17 | Tel +43 (0) 2714 6384 Weingut Polz Rührsdorf 22 | Tel +43 (0) 2714 6326

Datzinger Guest House Rote Torgasse 13a | Tel +43 (0) 2713 2493 Weingut Donabaum In der Spitz 3 | Tel +43 (0) 2713 2644 Weingut FJ Gritsch – Mauritiushof Kirchenplatz 13 | Tel +43 (0) 2713 2450 ‘Weinbergblick’ Guest House Rote Torgasse 18 | Tel +43 (0) 2713 2168 Weingut Özelt Kirchenplatz 3 | Tel +43 (0) 2713 2302

WeiSSenkirchen i. d. Wachau Restaurant Heinzle  Wachaustraße 280 | Tel +43 (0) 2715 2231 Hotel-Restaurant Kirchenwirt **** Kremser Straße 17 | Tel +43 (0) 2715 2332

Café - Konditorei Hagmann Untere Landstr. 8 | Tel +43(0)2732 83167

Gutshofrestaurant Prandtauerhof  Prandtauerplatz 36 | Tel +43 (0) 2715 2310

arte Hotel Krems **** Dr.KarlDorrek-Str.23 | Tel+43(0)273271123

Hotel Weinquadrat **** Landstraße 238 | Tel +43 (0) 2715 20008

Hotel ‘Unter den Linden’ *** Schillerstr. 5 | Tel +43 (0) 2732 82115

Weingut Pomassl Schild 175 | Tel +43 (0) 2711 286

Weinhof Aufreiter Dorfstraße 34 | Tel +43 (0) 2739 2205

‘Turm Wachau’ Guest House Burg 140 | Tel +43 (0) 664 201 3850

Wachau World Heritage Site

|

55

Event tips

WACHAU KULTUR Spring Wachau GOURMETfestival The best restaurants in the Wachau serve exclusive menus in April. Also: cookery shows, table talk and exceptional wine tastings. www.wachau-gourmet-festival.at Imago Dei This festival in Krems is an invitation to look at Easter from an artistic perspective.

The programme includes both old and contemporary music, dance, literature and performance projects. www.klangraum.at Osterreigen The Wachau opens the spring season at Eastertime with a wide range of events for walkers, culture lovers and connoisseurs. www.osterreigen.at Literature and wine Venues for the two-day series of events in April include Göttweig Abbey and the ‘Unabhängige Literaturhaus Niederösterreich’ (Independent Literature House of Lower Austria – ULNÖ) in Stein. www.ulnoe.at Schubertiade Dürnstein This three-day series of concerts and presentations takes place every year on the weekend after Easter, in the Marble Hall at Dürnstein Abbey. www.schubertiade-duernstein.at

There is a programme of cultural and sports events taking place in the Wachau all year round. Some of these also attract international attention.

Here is a selection of annual festivals and events: for more information see www.wachau.at | www.wachau-kultur.at Melk Abbey Baroque Days Baroque music concerts can be attended on Whitsun weekend every year, in the magnificent ambience of the Benedictine abbey at Melk. www.kultur-melk.at Summer Midsummer festival The ‘Sonnwendfeuer’ (Midsummer festival) is celebrated in a big and ‘fiery’ way in the Wachau. The numerous fires are best experienced from a boat. www.sonnenwende.at Melk Summer Festival The oldest summer festival in Lower Austria combines classical theatre, sensually brought to life, with music and the unique surroundings of the Danube, the floodplain forests and Melk Abbey. www.kultur-melk.at Glatt & Verkehrt The most important world music festival in Austria features traditional and contemporar y folk music from all over the world at various venues in July. www.glattundverkehrt.at

Danube Festival For two weekends in spring, Krems becomes an international platform for new performance art and experimental music. www.donaufestival.at

Wachau Festival Comedies are the focus of the ‘Wachau Festspiele’ summer theatre, which takes place in Teisenhoferhof at Weißenkirchen in July and August. www.wachaufestspiele.com

WeinSteinBikeWachau The mountain bike tour takes place ‘between wine and Stein’. In mid-May two races take place among the higher slopes behind the Spitzer Graben. www.weinsteinbike.at

Wachau Cycling Days Hundreds of cyclists line up for the Wachau Cycling Days in mid-July. There is a choice between two routes of 177 km or 97 km. www.wachauer-radtage.at

Autumn Wachau European Literature Days This convention featuring an international cast of authors takes place in Spitz every September. www.readme.cc Herbstwandern Whether you prefer a gentle stroll on the slopes or the ambitious Jauerling Circuit – pleasure walkers can get to know one or two stages of the World Heritage Trail on the Wachau Walking Day in September. www.wachau.at Wachau marathon This special running event enjoys great popularity. Every September some 10,000 runners explore the Wachau. www.wachaumarathon.at Kontraste Krems Experimental acoustic art, contemporary music and related art forms fill this festival ’s progr amme, which takes place on an October weekend at Klangraum Krems in the Minorite Church. www.kontraste.at Winter Wachau in real-time The Wachau shows off its atmospheric side, with Christmas markets and a series of events in abbeys, churches, castles and wineries, curated by Ursula Strauß. www.wachau-kultur.at Symposion Dürnstein Politics | Philosophy Religion Beginning on Ash Wednesday, thinkers from all over the world spend five days discussing values and concepts used in political discourse. www.kultur-melk.at

Useful information Rich in cultural treasures, one of the most enchanting river valleys in Europe and an internationally renowned wine-growing region: as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site, the Wachau is a unique, complete work of art and destination of choice for connoisseurs from all over the world. All 13 communities are connected by the ‘Wachau World Heritage Trail’, which leads to the most beautiful places.

Brochures, advice and bookings: Donau Niederösterreich Tourismus Wachau-Nibelungengau-Kremstal Regional Office 3620 Spitz/Donau Schlossgasse 3 Tel +43 (0) 2713/300 60-60 Fax DDI 30 Email urlaub@donau.com www.wachau.at www.welterbesteig.at

The Danube in Lower Austria We will be happy to provide you with information at the information centres in Melk, Emmersdorf, Spitz, Weißenkirchen, Dürnstein and Krems.

Donau Niederösterreich

CZ

Tullner Donaura D Donaurau ona nauraum aurau auraumau Wagram Wagram am m WachauNibelungengauKremstal

Donau

Römerland Römerl erland d Carnuntum C arnuntum m– Marchfeld Marchfeld d

SK

Linz St. Pölten M stviertel Mostviertel t

D

Eisenstadt

Salzburg

Bregenz

Bratislava Wien

H

Innsbruck Graz Klagenfurt

CH I

SLO

Legal notice: Editor and publisher: Donau NÖ Tourismus GmbH, A-3620 Spitz/Donau, Austria. Photography: Donau NÖ Tourismus GmbH, Steve Haider/w w w.steve.haider.com, Popp und Hackner, Gregor Semrad, Lachlan Blair, Wulz, Gerald Lechner, Niederösterreich Werbung, Lackinger, Lois Lammerhuber, Robert Herbst, Franz Hauleitner, Othmar Bramberger, Markus Haslinger, Manfred Seidl, diejun, Weinhäupl, Christian Bogner, Rita Newman, wein franz, Wolfgang Stich/www.panos.at, Robert Herbst/www.pov.at © Naturparke Niederösterreich, Augustin Baumgartner, OÖ.Werbung/Popp, Getty Images, Konstantin Gona, and by our service partners. Design and text: Donau NÖ Tourismus GmbH; Kinz Kommunikation, Vienna; Arbeitskreis Wachau and Wachau Kultur Melk GmbH. Idea and concept: Peter Sigmund, Martin Vogg. Graphic design: spreitzerdrei, Vienna. Printing: Offset 5020, Salzburg. Subject to correction despite careful editing. 2012 edition.