Mess Magazine Issue 12

Cover photography Lisa Lankes

MAGAZINE

US $14.99

sustainable conscious

x

Model Laura Noltemeyer

ISSUE #12 FALL 2020

introduction

“I believe that sustainability is the next thing in the global fashion movement. This issue features influencers, companies, fashion designers and individuals, which support sustainability, as well as conscious consumerism.” Since our planet suffered greatly, a lot of people started to care about what we can do about it - how we can change it, by shifting the mindset first, then strategically creating a plan of how to help ourselves, our businesses and eventually by doing so, influence the rapid changes happening on Earth and possibly create a movement, which can inspire many to CARE.

We do care about the environment, all stakeholders, from our employees, to everyone in our community, so forth we believe in starting the conversation between everyone featured in the issue and YOU, our readers. This issue’s dedicated to raise awareness in the fashion industry Creatives to and for Earth. Enjoy issue 12!

DOMI PEREK CREATIVE DIRECTOR X EDITOR IN CHIEF

with thanks

Influencers — Marija Kriskapa Special thanks to —

Thank you to the team of writers —

Caroline Vazzana

Our cover star Laura Noltemeyer

Kate Tik

Selina Graf

Erik

JAS PR

Leonie Hanne

Lisa Lankes

Anuthida

LALA Berlin

Yamilette Cano

Marcel Ostertag

Elisa Bellino

Sofia Trojanowska

Gosia Boy

STAIY team

Reema Vaidya

Daniel’s Face

CEOs and Founders —

Alexis Calcavecchia

Nick Leuze

Chloe Rann

Christina Leuze

Melanie Perkins CANVA team

Mary’s Eireos Curras

Patrick Duffy

Millie Richardson

Yash Ranga

Lucy Oben Pepra

Hilde van Mas

Magda Kaczmarska

Imo Ikamen

Patrick Llewellyn 99designs team Mariya Nurislamova SCENTBIRD team

Cynthia Abila

Jordana Guimarães Fashion Innovation NYC

Graphic Designer —

Yuna Miray

Rankin and Marco Antonio

Patrick Byrne www.patbyrnedesign.com

Sanaz Wasser

Quintessentionally team

Utmon es pour Paris

Dr Halima Jarrodi

CONT 06

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lala Berlin

sustainability x fashion

cover shoot

yash ranga

laura noltemeyer

patrick mcdowell

leyla piedayesh

ludovica durante sanaz wasser yuna miray dr. halima jarrodi quintessentially jordana guimarĂŁes cynthia abila nicoline hansen mayura davda copenhagen fashion week utmon es pour paris

TENTS 114

152

198

editorial

interviews

recap

viktor + rolf

rankin

lala berlin streetstyle 20

condĂŠ nast

melanie perkins

milano fashion week streetstyle 20

hilde van mas

patrick llewellyn

fashion forecast

caroline vazzana mariya nurislamova kate tik yamilette cano elisa bellino cynthia johnson

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TOP — YUNA MIRAY HAT — LALA BERLIN PANTS — KOMODO FASHION BAG — ZAMT BERLIN EARRINGS — KONPLOTT

Cover star — Laura Noltemeyer Creative director — Domi Perek Production — JAS PR x Domi Perek Post production — Patrick Byrne x Lisa Lankes Makeup x Hair - Yaël Neander Assistance Sofia — Trojanowska Partners — STAIY X Aequem

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DRESS — LALA BERLIN SHOES — BALAGAN

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EARRINGS — KONPLOTT

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SUIT — MARCEL OSTERTAG TOP — LETICIA BAG — LALA BERLIN

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EARRINGS — KONPLOTT

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SUIT — MARCEL OSTERTAG TOP — LETICIA BAG — LALA BERLIN EARRINGS — KONPLOTT

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SUIT — STEINROHNER SHIRT — KOMODO FASHION BAG — ALEXANDRA SVENDSEN SHOES — BALAGAN

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EARRINGS — KONPLOTT

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SUIT — STEINROHNER SHOES — BALAGAN BAG — UTMON ES POUR PARIS EARRINGS — KONPLOTT

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SUIT — STEINROHNER SHOES — BALAGAN BAG — UTMON ES POUR PARIS

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EARRINGS — KONPLOTT

SWEATER + JUMPER — FRANCIS STORIES BAG — UTMON ES POUR PARIS EARRINGS — KONPLOTT

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TOP + COAT — YUNA MIRAY SUNGLASSES — MIU MIU EARRINGS — KONPLOTT

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BAG — ZAMT BERLIN

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Art and Architecture: Interview with Laura Noltemeyer — Who better to contribute to the forms and structure within fashion than an architect? After very successfully completing her master’s degree in architecture in 2014, Laura Noltemeyer created a blog named ‘DESIGNDSCHUNGEL’, which translates to „Design Jungle“. Laura has emerged to be one of the most popular German influential personalities and her large social media following is indicative to her success. While actively engaging with her community, she also emerges to be a thriving entrepreneur, building her own social media agency „Influencing101“, always open to share her experience as a speaker and mentor. IN HER INTERVIEW, LAURA SHARES HER STORY OF CREATING ‘DESIGNDSCHUNGEL’.

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When did you develop a passion for architecture? I’ve always loved architecture. Since I was a little child, I loved visiting cities with lots of buildings. As I grew older, I loved combining different colors, textures and designs to see the outcome and different atmospheres that one can create. I honestly think I rearranged my children’s room every month. When I finished school, I thought about what I loved the most. It was writing and architecture. I

decided to take the architecture path because I would never have been able to learn its principles (physics, law and statics) by myself, as I could for writing. How did you cultivate this passion? Ever since I can remember, I loved reading magazines and books about design and artists. For me, it is all about creativity and perspectives, and not about being a writer, an architect, a singer or an artist. It is all about finding the right instruments to create something, something

fashion it is most important out of which materials products are made and how they are cut, but also how they play with the various shapes of the body and what kind of effect they are supposed to create. After all, it is quite fascinating how fast paced the fashion world is, how the wheel, of which everyone wants to be part of, always turns faster and faster. What is hot today can be outdated tomorrow.

authorities over the phone. But the biggest challenge is to believe in yourself and in your idea, company and employees. You have to get used to things not working out the way you want them to. You might try and fail with something 10 times, but you stand up again 11 times.

What inspired you to become an entrepreneur?

I thought about writing professionally when I was younger. I considered journalism, but then decided to study architecture. The neat thing is that I work with Designdschungel now, where I can combine both passions.

I always wanted to have my own business and work for my own companies to create something great. Honestly, my parents inspired me to become an entrepreneur, because that is what I was always around when I was a little kid at home. They told me that it will be lots of work, but honestly for me, that did not keep me from building my own company, because if you love what you do, it doesn’t matter if you work 24/7 or not. How did you come up with the name DESIGNDSCHUNGEL? that you want to show and you wanted to be associated with. How did you apply your love for architecture to the fashion world? When I started DESIGNDSCHUNGEL, I wanted to combine architecture with fashion. For me, architecture and design are not only measured by numbers, calculations and facts, but they are the love for details, shapes, materials and well thought out ideas. This love can also be transferred to fashion. Within

DESIGNDSCHUNGEL is a word combination with Design (from Fashion and Architecture) and Dschungel (it is the german word for jungle as in big city / concrete jungle). What challenges did you experience as an entrepreneur? In Germany, all the regulations, authorities and lots and lots of paperwork make it hard to build a company. If you don’t have a mentor or someone who knows all those things, in the beginning you need to spend a lot of time researching and talking to the

I noted you also enjoy writing. Have you pursued writing professionally?

How did you apply writing, photography and travel to your business? I started writing about all the things I like and that I think my readers would like. And it organically grew bigger and bigger… more and more people wanted to see, read and talk to me about my recommendations. DESIGNDSCHUNGEL (originally created as a blog) grew to a bigger company, where I could share beauty, lifestyle and design recommendations with my community on a daily basis. Where is your favorite travel destination? I lost my heart to Capetown two years ago. But honestly I would never travel too far during summer time. Europe has the most outstanding destinations like Mallorca, Ibiza, some Greek islands, Toscana and the list goes on and on. It has so much to offer and I just love living here.

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“It is all about finding the right instruments to create something, something that you want to show and you wanted to be associated with.�

laura noltemeyer

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What is one of your favorite shoots/projects you worked on with DESIGNDSCHUNGEL? I love shooting big campaigns in fashion and beauty. Recently I worked with Zalando for a beauty campaign. A couple years ago, I also shot a commercial for L’Oréal Paris. When I started our Social Media Agency, “Influencing101,“ over a year ago, I worked on so many different campaigns with my boyfriend Julian and my sister Olivia. We always try to work on the most creative campaigns that have the perfect fit for our clients, brands, etc. For some years now, I do panel talks, go to companies for workshops and lots of interviews on stage. I just love that my job has so many different things to offer. How does your brand keep up with the constantly evolving industry of fashion? We always try to go with our intuition and of course we watch all the developments in the industry. The great thing about having a huge community is that I can always ask them about their needs, wishes or advice. So it is working together, not working against each other, that helps us succeed. What advice do you have for young rising entrepreneurs who wish to break into the fashion industry? Do what you want to do. Be creative and unique. Work harder than anybody else. Be professional and always be on time.

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LaLa Berlin: An interview with Designer Leyla Piedayesh — Lala Berlin revolutionized Copenhagen Fashion Week at their 2020 fashion show, Off the Ground. Revolution through self-reflection - that is the central message of the collection, said Leyla Piedayesh, Designer of Lala Berlin. The show took place at an industrial factory, which created a serene contrast against the garments and color palette of the collection. The influential falcon print was the main focal point seen throughout many looks, as it represented a broadened perspective on the past, present and future of the brand. Powerful faux leather pieces, embroidery and unique prints, intertwined with elegance and femininity on the runway. The wearer of Lala Berlin doesn’t only love comfort and effortless style with immense attention to detail, they also feel inspired to reflect on their journey and grow. As Piedayesh said, “I want to give the wearer wings”, and that’s exactly what she did in this collection. IN AN INTERVIEW WITH LEYLA, WE DISCUSSED WHAT INSPIRES HER, BEHIND THE SCENES DETAILS ON THE FASHION SHOW, AND WHAT LALA BERLIN IS ALL ABOUT.

BACKSTAGE PHOTOGRAPHY — MARC-HENRI NGANDU

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What defines Lala Berlin for you? For me personally, Lala Berlin is much more than beautiful dresses, cashmere scarfs and our signature kufiya print – it is my most defining project and, apart from my daughter, the second love of my life. Biggest inspiration behind designs?

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I think that my looks are going into a more elegant and feminine direction. I care about a certain effortlessness in my designs – I cannot stand complicated clothes; I want the wearer to be comfortable. That certain feeling where you simply throw on a piece, and you are ready for whatever the day may bring. This is what I want to create with my collections and what has always been important

to me personally as well. Still, I want to incorporate typically feminine elements – lots of dresses (most of them with pockets), flowing fabrics, intricate tailoring and embroidery. What were some things that inspired you to create this collection? The starting point of this collection was the falcon – this print is experiencing a rebirth as the guiding motive of this season. We originally developed this print for FW2012 – now it is the metaphorical central theme of the collection and adorns key pieces in numerous iterations. I deliberately chose this print, as it stands for instinct, sharp vision and is also an important symbol in my native country of Iran. It signifies my broadened perspective on over 15 years of

“Clothes alone cannot empower a person – they can aid, and they can emphasize, but true empowerment comes from within.” Lala Berlin. Simultaneously, strong influences from the seventies and its new-age icons are expressed in the collection’s silhouettes, prints and color palette.

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CATWALK PHOTOGRAPHY BY issue 12

JAMES COCHRANE

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How was the process while working on this collection? Usually, I sit together with the design team and we brainstorm – and ask ourselves: What inspires us? What is the message we want to convey? Any special trends that we are mad about? And then, we have a fitting with inspirational pieces to create a first look and develop a silhouette for the collection. For F/W 2020, we did the fitting on me – with pieces from my closet and styles from the lala Berlin archive. Which is how we came across the falcon print from

Fall/Winter 2012 – and I remembered how much I loved it, and how many loyal supporters and friends of the brand have told me that it is one of their all-time favorites as well. So, we decided to reinterpret this motive and give it another spin as the central theme of the collection – not just graphically, but metaphorically as well.

Some of your favorite pieces from this collection? I love the camel coat with the eyelets, the pink puff sleeved suit – and of course, the falcon print. How did you build a relationship with the Copenhagen Fashion Week? For 10 years we have been in the Scandinavian market – we have a flagshipstore in Copenhagen and have numerous customers in different regions. On one hand it is a strategic decision – it is important for us to have a presence here to nurture this key market. Copenhagen Fashion Week has become an important international platform – for both young and

established brands and they have always been very welcoming to me and supportive of my brand. What is your morning ritual before a show? I do not have any special rituals – I try to get a good night sleep and meditate in the morning, but this is something that I try to do every day. I am not a superstitious person. I trust myself and my team, and after being in business for over 15 years, you become a bit more relaxed from season to season. What do you want customers to remember about the brand? I want them to remember how the clothes made them feel

while they were wearing them. I want my customers to feel elegant, powerful and vibrant – but always with a certain kind of effortlessness. Who was your idol growing up? I did not have any idols. I had people that inspired me, but never someone that I frantically aspired to be. That’s not the way I´m wired – I have always been very idealistic and wanted to create a life and story for myself. What do you think about empowerment through clothes? Clothes alone cannot empower a person – they can aid, and they can emphasize, but true empowerment comes from within.

SUSTAIN X FAS

NABILITY SHION

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New Year resolution: Be more sustainable — We’ve all got our New Year Resolutions, whether it’s doing more exercise or getting a new job, or – like me – spending less on clothes (it’s been tough). But one thing that we should all be doing is being more environmentally conscious, from eating no meat to boycotting fast fashion brands, which is a little bit more up my street. You probably know this already (and if you don’t, I have no idea where you’ve been), but sustainability in fashion has become paramount. The shopaholic devil on my shoulder has been quaking in her Miista boots as the environment’s state gets drastically worse, and my spending habits have now been challenged not only by my pay check but also by the deteriorating climate surrounding me. I’M SURE I’M NOT THE ONLY ONE WHOSE FALLEN VICTIM TO THOSE TROUBLESOME BLACK FRIDAY SALES AND NEW-SEASON DROPS, BUT AS OUR SITUATION GETS INCREASINGLY WORSE, I AM HAVING TO FORCE MYSELF TO CHANGE. I’M NOT SAYING I’M PERFECT; IT’S EASY TO SLIP INTO OLD HABITS WHEN YOU FIND YOUR DREAM SAKS POTTS COAT FOR A FRACTION OF THE ORIGINAL PRICE. BUT, DESPITE THIS SMALL HICCUP, I’VE DEFINITELY GOT MYSELF ON THE RIGHT TRACK FOR 2020.

YASH RANGA ONE X ONE ADVISOR

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“...there are so many conscious fashion solutions that, without being too dramatic, can change our entire lives...” Whilst I face some personal challenges as SS20 stock clogs up my news feed, there are some serious perks that I’ve found along the sustainable brick road that make up for it. From designer bargains that beat any 70% off January sale to investing in those key pieces that will take me through the trend years, there are so many conscious fashion solutions that, without being too dramatic, can change our entire lives (and wardrobes). One thing that I can thank my pay check for is becoming a hunting queen for a bargain, and this means buying other people’s clothes, whether it’s online or in store. Whilst seasonal sales can be tempting, I cannot stress how much better vintage and second hand pieces are on your wallet, style and carbon footprint. A couple of recent purchases of

mine include a Chanel Tweed skirt for a speechless £105 off Depop (my online haggling skills proved useful), and a fuchsia Prada baguette bag for £45 off eBay, which only took a bit of tactical searching and bidding. When signing up to sites like Vestairie, Depop and Vinted, the trick is to have a few designers, brands or specific pieces in mind and search for them, following those who sell anything good you stumble across. I began this bargain manhunt by taking the time I usually spend endlessly scrolling on Instagram and dedicating it to these sites, which maximised the chances of finding an absolute gem (doesn’t help the shopaholic tendencies though that’s for sure). I also sell a lot of my pieces on these sites, which in turn helps fund buying other second hand steals. I treat it like my circle of fashion life. Another thing I’ve been doing a lot of recently is supporting

small brands, especially sustainable ones, as it’s a great way to find unique pieces that you won’t come across on these mass-production-filled fashion sites. I often look out for fashion graduates who are starting up their own labels, most of which are sustainable nowadays, and give them an Insta follow. A few of my favourite small brands right now are Dipetsa, Helena Manzano, Camilla Bloom, Fruity Booty, Western Affair, Elliss and Chopova Lewona. It’s easy to fall into habits of spending time on sites such as Selfridges and Net-A-Porter, but with a bit of research you can easily find small boutique stores in your area that have the same concept but on a smaller sustainable level. Some London based stores like this include inNEOSs and 50m.

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A huge issue I’ve also started facing is the struggle to trust a brand or company when the word ‘sustainable’ gets thrown about. When you hear huge climate activists & fashion designers such as Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood preaching about the environment and making political statements in their campaigns and catwalks, I can’t help but feel deceived. These are two designers who are still mass-producing clothes, some of which aren’t sustainably made (I’m talking about those VW jelly shoes that I spotted in Singapore). Vivienne Westwood’s Asian

market is a completely different ball game to what she preaches to the Westerners – why isn’t that spoken about? And Stella McCartney has recently been outed for using a manufacturer who seriously underpays their staff, which is unethical, and that goes against the sustainability code for me. ‘Sustainable’ is a word that’s become used so loosely by many designers, which brings us to the new term ‘Greenwashing’, something H&M have been criticised for with their conscious collection. This means promoting the sustainable side of a brand/company, whilst

dismissing any existing issues such as mass production, unethical manufacturing and the continued use of unsustainable materials. It’s easy, though, to out a fast-fashion company like H&M, but many designers seem to have got away without a scratch. This is why I’ve found myself turning towards the small brands more than ever before, and only trusting companies who are completely transparent with their production. In a world that is getting scarily close to reaching a point complete self-destruction, industries like the fashion industry need to drastically step up their game, and preaching and pretending about sustainability is not going to cut it. We need to start thinking more deeply into what we buy and who we buy from. A product may be made out of recycled materials, but is the brand still causing concern for the environment? Do we know enough about that brand to feel reassured that they’re sustainable? If you don’t, don’t buy. That’s your simple 2020 resolution right there.

PATRICK MCDOWELL AND PATRICK DUFFY — EVANGELISTS OF SUSTAINABILITY AND PART OF GFX AT LONDON FASHIONWEEK

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When fashion meets sustainability — What happens when sustainability and fashion combine? Four young Italian entrepreneurs had the answer to that question and the end product was STAIY. Staiy is the first online platform to only offer 100% eco-friendly brands; pretty revolutionary right? By minimizing the environmental footprint of fashion production and keeping the principles of style alive through organic ideas, Staiy just might have the power to change the surface of fashion as we know it. MESS MAGAZINE SAT DOWN WITH ONE OF THE CO-FOUNDERS OF STAIY, LUDOVICO DURANTE, TO FIND HOW EXACTLY HOW AND WHY THIS ONE-OF-A-KIND COMPANY GOT ITS START.

How did you get the idea of Staiy? Staiy is an idea that evolved through time. It all started off with a text from one of the cofounders to another: “I have an idea, do you have time and a team?”. We were inspired to create something that could raise the standards of the online fashion experience, as the fast-growing market has room for improvement under many aspects. To reduce the returns that harm both the planet and the businesses, we focused on developing something We wanted a bigger mission to stand for. We needed to be

proud of what we were trying to achieve. Keeping the consumer-centric approach, the idea developed into something with the potential of making a change for a better future: the first sustainable fashion marketplace with AI personalization. Why did you decide to start with Staiy? The team members were into entrepreneurship since they met. Throughout university, many times while hanging out the discussion focused on startup ideas which never took off. This time was different, we were in

our last year of university in Berlin. The city is full of opportunities, startups, and talent, and it’s constantly changing. No wonder that many stories of success come from here. Under many aspects, Berlin taught us how easy it is to have a lower impact on the planet in your daily life and how to think out of the box. It seems almost effortless here, and it’s done in a cool way. Therefore, the decision to start was a mix of perfect circumstances: the city is simply set up for people with ideas, a bigger vision, and drive. Our ESCP studies gave us the right preparation to face the startup world and its challenges.

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The team had alchemy already ongoing before the start and quickly picked up a fast-paced working rythm. The need for a product that could make an impact motivated us. The market was lacking a point of reference for sustainable fashion. All the elements suggested to try, so we simply said…”why not?” What is the vision behind Staiy?

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Staiy’s vision is “to bring sustainable shopping to every customer.” We believe that the main area of improvement for sustainable fashion is accessibility and personalization: it’s hard for people to find a place where to shop in a better way. So they take the quick path and buy from those fashion

giants that offer a bit of everything and are easily found. The sustainable fashion industry can only be effective if it’s able to pick up a portion of these buyers. Our mission, the reason for Staiy to be in the market, is “to accelerate the transition towards sustainable fashion, making it cool, easy and accessible”. Being able to attract every type of customer is for us a must: it’s the way for a smooth transition towards a lower impact fashion. To fulfill our vision and mission, we have set the bar very high in terms of the user interface, experience, and brand selection. Like so, we can show through an appealing app that you can be sustainable without compromising your style.

How difficult was the start and which challenges you had to overcome?

“Our goal is to show that sustainable and fashionable go together to the large public so that a real impact in the industry can be made.�

The start was quite exciting, but it had ups and downs. The team was facing every challenge with motivation and confidence. We were lucky to have mentors and coaches to support and help us make the right decisions. The period of time in which we were developing the algorithm for style personalization was definitely the most difficult one. Many things were happening: exams were approaching, group projects and other tasks were due, we had coaching sessions, had to develop the business model and on top, a strict deadline to deliver the metadata for the algorithm. The whole technology process is incredibly lengthy, and overall we graded more than 250 thousand data points. As all of these things were happening, we had to give up our social life. It became difficult to balance university, startup, friends, and partners. Therefore, we organized brunch sessions at our house on weekends. Our friends would come to have a nice meal altogether and then helped us out with the metadata. It was a great compromise. We felt our friends’ amazing support and approval while moving faster towards the deadline. We ate lots of food and have that bit of social life for which we barely had time over the last academical year. An all-inclusive solution, where the best of both worlds merged.

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Who is your target audience? We believe that sustainability will become the norm in the fashion industry. In the long run, Staiy aims at attracting the widest public possible. Our goal is to show that sustainable and fashionable go together to the large public so that a real impact in the industry can be made. To start off with, we target everyone that is interested in fashion and sustainability in general, those people who make an effort to lower their impact while staying stylish. In other words, the Berliners of the world. They are the ones that guide the transition towards a better fashion. What is the USP of your startup? The merger of sustainable fashion brands and breakthrough personalization technology, in one single platform that is super user-friendly. Many platforms offer great user experience but little, if any, sustainable fashion. Their main driver is sales and not the cause. On the other side, sustainable fashion platforms are too limited in the experience that they offer to really influence the market. Focusing on the

cause, they sometimes forget about the consumer journey. Staiy is the merger of the two, working for the cause while keeping at pace with the giant’s standards. Technology and user experience are our tools to take down any barrier that stops people from buying sustainable fashion. Can you describe your typical workday? We are a very flexible team and each one of us has its most productive times of the day. There are morning workers and night workers, and we are more task-oriented than timeoriented. We structure the work for the month based on goals and then break it down. Each one of us has its tasks for the week and that’s the main focus, but we also jump in and help each other out anytime. It’s always good to be on the same page and to discuss doubts and opportunities anytime. Usually, we start off at 9, each one working on his tasks. Mainly emails and calls in the morning when all of the other offices are open. Lunchtime is about 40 minutes, and it’s important to make sure it is a proper break with no work thoughts (even though it’s hard). After lunch, we

have a stand-up meeting where we discuss achievements, doubts or important things. Then, we carry on working until about 6.30, when it’s a gym or soccer time. Keeping the body in shape and getting our stress released is key for a healthy routine. After the gym, we have dinner all together and we work while relaxing, maybe laying down on the couch, and we discuss the (many) things to be solved or approached. Bedtime really depends on individual habits. Where do you see yourself and your startup Staiy in five years? Staiy will be the leader for sustainable online shopping. We see ourselves managing the company with talented people who believed in the project and worked with us from day one. We see Staiy as the most influential company in driving the transition towards sustainable fashion, with the capability of incentivizing a wiser lifestyle under many aspects. Towards this goal, we are moving one step at the time: it’s always good to take ambitious aims and look at the stars, but it’s equally important to know where you are at the moment and where is your next step to move forward. What 3 tips would you give other Start-up founders on the way? 1. Work out the numbers In the beginning, it’s easy to get super optimistic about your idea and be sure that you will succeed. And that’s a great start. The moment you break down all of your potential costs and revenues, your idea starts to

become a company. Considering all of the expenses to start and maintain the business not only provides a good overview of the feasibility of your business model, it also means higher chances of receiving an investment. Showing that even small expenses are taken into account is a synonym of professionality and mature understanding. 2. Find the right balance The startup life is great, but it can become exhaustive. To perform at best, you have to find the right balance both in and out of the “office” (most probably anywhere with a WiFi). Within your team, each member has strengths and preferences. If they are respected, productivity is boosted. Make sure that everybody has a clear task and that the roles are split: it’s the best way to move forward. As the startup life can absorb you, it’s important to always leave a time frame to get it all out. Gym, sports, and drinks are more than welcome! Also, don’t forget to celebrate your achievements! … But remember, if you do not give up other things and grind for what you believe in, you will hardly achieve what you want! 3. Talk Communication is fundamental. It’s essential to the success to your startup. There are two main areas where communication is fundamental: outside and within your team. When you start, it’s a common belief that you have got the next big thing. People are scared to talk about it because they are afraid someone could steal their billions of dollars idea. We learned that every time you engage in a conversation about

your startup you see a different perspective. All these perspectives teach you something and help to develop the idea. If we think about our journey within the past months, it has been an incredible ride and evolution. Go talk to people, especially those who have seen more than you or that are experts in your industry. Within your team, organize feedback sessions. Too often people tend to keep things for themselves, and that ends up harming the company and individual relationships. We organize feedback sessions, about every month or a couple of months. In these, each team member says what they like and what they dislike about other team members. It’s a great way to bond by being incomplete honesty while gathering feedback. It worked out great for us to make sure that everybody was aware of where they were appreciated and where they had to improve. If you want a great startup you need a team that is willing to be at their best, and being aware of strengths and weaknesses is the first step. 4. What you’re excited about? We are looking forward to seeing a growing interest in the actual story behind the end product. It will be exciting to try to do so in a smooth way: attracting customers with an intuitive website, educating them with the reward system and product information and setting the new standards for the fashion industry. We want people to look good and feel good. Moreover, we are excited to see the merger of AI and sustainability in one platform and seeing the response to the fresh style approach that we are bringing.

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Imagine creative fashion concepts that ALSO use vegan and recycled materials and are made ethically? Rising brand SANIKAI is an expert in this capacity — Founded in 2015 by husband and wife Kai and Sanaz Wasser, the brand strives to promote a positive and caring attitude towards the natural world. After noticing an empty niche in the market for sustainable clothing, the couple decided to find quality environmentally-friendly materials for their own brand, and worked hard to do so. IN HER INTERVIEW, SANAZ DESCRIBES THE INSPIRATION AND PROCESS OF CREATING HER UNIQUE BRAND.

What is the inspiration for creating your brand? I was 29 when I decided to quit my well-paid job in the advertising industry to study design. This was around the year 2010, and at that time in my life I already shifted to a more conscious and sustainable lifestyle and realized that there weren’t many environmentally and animal-friendly yet also ethical and of course fashionable brands available. The reason I decided to study fashion design was so that I could create my own cloth. During my examination phase-and just for fun, I created a Facebook and an Instagram account and uploaded pictures of pieces for my diploma. Almost instantly, I got order requests from all over the world. The feedback was incredible, and it led to my and my husband’s decision to bring SANIKAI to life and turn it into a business reality. How come you picked the name SANIKAI? SANIKAI is a play on words. My name is Sanaz and my husband’s name is Kai. He tremendously supported me during my exam time and relieved me of any additional pressure. To integrate his name in my diploma thesis was my way of saying thank you. The name stuck with us and we truly liked it. So we decided to keep it when we founded the brand.

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Did you and your husband work in the fashion industry previously, and if so, in what capacity? No, not at all. I worked in advertising for many years. Kai is a process-engineer and is responsible for the technical and business-oriented part. Did you create your brand with a team or on your own? Kai and I created the label on our own. However, we recently started to expand our core team because we’ve been growing. We focus on proactive team members who participate and take action.

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What hurdles did you need to overcome as entrepreneurs? To be frank, many. But the hurdles have changed throughout the journey. At the beginning the sourcing was a

big and sometimes barely possible mission. Materials and opportunities were almost non-existent. Today, there’s a wide and diverse range of products and more and more suppliers of fabrics and materials focus on sustainable innovations. Of course, as entrepreneurs, there are additional hurdles, such as self-discipline and resilience which require both a good sense of self-criticism and confidence. There’s no one else to measure your work and give you feedback, so it’s crucial to question every single work. However, it is important to simultaneously compliment and motivate yourself so you stay confident. Moreover, each collection’s success can vary so it’s important to stay down-to-earth, yet not give up if we didn’t receive as many compliments. There’s always another season ahead of us.

“...we were driven only by an ideology and the desire to be part of a positive movement. Profitability has not been our priority for a long time.” How long did it take for SANIKAI to become successful?

How do you incorporate ethics into the production of your clothing?

It’s not easy to give a simple response to this question. My upbringing influenced my view of success. See, I was raised by very strict parents and my father put a lot of emphasis on the best grade. The second-best was never good enough. SANIKAI has not yet reached my demands and goals but if you ask me how much effort it takes instead of how long, I can say, it took a lot and needs a little more.

We manufacture in Switzerland at a training center, which educates up to 60 students. This guarantees a short supply route and keeps our ecological footprint as low as possible. At the same time, we support a local business and are part of young people’s education. We also try to avoid unnecessary material and fabric consumption. And of course, we only work with certified organic or recycled materials.

Has it ever been difficult to locate production resources that are environmentally friendly/vegan? Yes, it was indeed. At the beginning between 2010 – 2015 it was actually very difficult. Prices as well as minimum purchase quantity for ethically produced materials were unrealistically high. However, In the last four years things have changed enormously for the better.

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Who is your target market segment? Our target customer lives consciously and places great value on quality and timeless designs which are simple but still elegant and unique. She is confident and embraces cuts, proportions and colors. She knows her favorite pieces, which she combines well for various occasions and loves to wear and appreciate for many years. How do you market to this segment? In the beginning we were driven only by an ideology and the desire to be part of a positive movement. Profitability has not been our priority for a long time. As a result, we have grown

organically for the last four years. Nevertheless, we are also aware that we have benefited from social media and were able to reach our segment outside Switzerland.

consider it rewarding. For instance, I spotted a friend of mine during the summer holidays wearing a two-piece from our first collection. These are fulfilling and priceless moments.

What was the most fulfilling aspect of creating your own brand?

What are your future goals for SANIKAI?

The creation of my own brand itself brought of course flexible working hours. Before the twins were born I was a night owl and was always grumpy in the morning. I’m still grumpy sometimes but very thankful to adjust my work to my everyday life. Beyond that, every time I see that our clothes fit our customers perfectly, or when I suddenly see someone walking past me wearing SANIKAI, I

Currently, we aim to work with the Women’s Cooperative of Marrakech to allow their talents to flow into our pieces. Moreover, we plan to launch a small accessories line in collaboration with other designers and artisans of North Africa. And finally, we’re going to be at Paris Fashion Week this September 2019 and will show our latest collection in a showroom in the Marais district.

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Sustainable is the New Black — In 2017, Fashion Design graduates, Irina Könitz & Semiramis Wall joined together to start a sustainable fashion revolution called Yuna Miray“the future we want”. The latest Yuna Miray Collection features classic and modern clothing for everyday wear. All of their clothing is produced with sustainable fabrics such as Merino Wool, Organic Cotton, Tencel® / Lyocell, and packaged with the environment in mind. They even partner with Avocadostore, a marketplace for eco-fashion, and Insect Respect.

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WE CAUGHT UP WITH THE INSPIRING WOMEN BEHIND THE MODERN FASHION LABEL, AND LEARNED EXACTLY HOW THEY ARE CHANGING THE WORLD AND MAKING SUSTAINABLE THE NEW BLACK.

IRINA KÖNITZ & SEMIRAMIS WALL, FOUNDER’S OF YUNA MIRAY

The beginning of the Yuna Miray fashion revolution started when… I: We got to know each other during our studies and always kept in touch afterwards. Through our respective work at larger corporations in the fashion industry, we both have always thought that this cannot be the only way to go and to be successful. In our annoyance about it, we got together in 2017 and started to prepare our fashion revolution.

What does sustainability mean to you? I: Acting sustainably means constantly questioning your decisions regarding consumption, which affects all areas of your own life. Being it the groceries that I buy, the clothes that I wear, or the transportation that I use to get from A to B. I think it is a process of changing one´s life that benefits our loved ones and last but definitely not least our unique planet. The citizen who is informed and strives daily to make the world better are extremely important, but it must be politically supported in the fight for the changeover of the economy.

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S: Sustainability does also not mean seasonal fashion. You can wear them forever. It is always our goal to combine perfectly tailored clothing with the best fabric quality. Is there a special meaning behind the super-stylish bug print? Does it have something to do with partnering with insect respect? S: We had the idea of making a special print and found this special beetle. They are colorful but tiny and instinctively threatened by agriculture. On the one hand we want to show the beauty of nature and on the other hand the environmental awareness! We donate to insect respect for every beetle shirt sold.

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I: Insect Respect creates flowering areas for insects. So they get a habitat far away from fields contaminated by pesticides. Insects are an extremely important part of the ecosystem. They not only serve as pollinators and thus also secure our food, but are also staple food for birds and other animal species.

What are your go-to staple pieces that you believe everyone should have in their wardrobe? I: A well-fitting blazer in a classic colour, jeans, at best without washing and a cloth trouser, a trenchcoat is important and also a pencil skirt. But the most important thing is always to ensure a perfect fit and to find your personal style. A good salesperson or an honest friend is worth their weight in gold here. What do you want Yuna Miray to portray to consumers? I: The fashion industry needs to change as quickly as possible. Much more information may have to be conveyed to show the customers that sustainability and fashion are not mutually exclusive but rather enhance it. S: Yuna Miray is a portrait of a modern business woman. She wants to look particulary noble with fine materials. It has a new classic look. Any suggestions on how to create a sustainable lifestyle? I: Try to pay attention to where the garment comes from. The manufacturer should enable the customer to provide information. Natural, certified materials are not only better for us, but also for the environment. Also buy second hand. There are great providers here as well. A garment that has been manufactured to a high quality maybe last a lifetime. And as already mentioned fashions come and go. Find your own style and your wardrobe will walk the path with you.

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“On the one hand we want to show the beauty of nature and on the other hand the environmental awareness! We donate to insect respect for every beetle shirt sold.�

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Where do you see Yuna Miray in 5 years?

What are future goals for Yuna Miray?

S: In five years, I see ourselves as an integral part of the fashion world, which makes a significant contribution to supplying the world with conscious fashion.

I: Of course, we want to continue to grow as a business in order to create secure jobs, expand the information about our insect protection and encourage customers to be more aware of their clothing. Furthermore, it would of course be great to get the opportunity to generate more attention with larger projects in order to be able to further advance the educational work.

What are a few goals that you want to set for each other? S: First of all, teamwork should be fun. We love what we do and we are passionate about doing it. It’s a tough business, otherwise it wouldn’t work. Always build a bridge between business and family I: That we always outgrow ourselves and embark on new adventures.

Please explain more about working with Avocadostore and what that means? How can this change our environment? S: The avocadostore is a great platform to gradually make your life more environmentally

conscious. There is a wide range of clothing and accessories, but also home and living, technology and many more. Shipping is climate-neutral and they provide information on many aspects of environmentally conscious living. A visit to the site is worthwhile for everyone. When a Yuna Miray purchase is made through Avocadostore, Yuna Miray will also send you an envelope of seeds, to help recreate and rebuild biospeheres for animals and insects. “As a young and modern label we value sustainability in all aspects of our production just as high as the art of fashion design itself.”

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Fashion can be defined in many waysit’s ultimately a huge part of your journey through life and reflected through your unique personal style. It reflects who you are as an individual — Have you ever felt like your work wardrobe is preventing you from expressing your most authentic self? Dr. Halima Jarrodi, founder of ‘This is HER’ has and she is now redefining woman’s work wear around the world. During her Berlin FashionTech 2020 presentation, she highlighted why it’s important for women to be able to express themselves in a professional and fashionable way, and how ‘This is HER’ is helping women define their true selves through fashion. She was inspired to make a difference in women’s lives after spending many years of feeling in-authentic to herself wearing boxy suits, with cuts tailored specifically for men. She found it was difficult to feel feminine and empowered with clothing that wasn’t tailored to her frame, and she wanted to help other women who felt the exact same way. So, she set out to create a high-quality, sustainable and essential wardrobe, starting with the perfectioned ‘This is HER’ blazer. WE SPOKE WITH DR. HALIMA JARRODI AND DISCUSSED BERLIN FASHIONTECH, AUTHENTIC FEMININITY, WOMEN EMPOWERMENT, SUSTAINABLE ESSENTIALS AND THE FUTURE OF ‘THIS IS HER’.

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How did it feel to be a speaker at Berlin FashionTech 2020? It was a great experience attending FashionTech and also being invited on the panel. The idea of connecting fashion with the tech and startup ecosystem is extremely important to drive innovation through interdisciplinary exchange. FashionTech has once more managed to bring together a vibrant and diverse crowd of people.

Why is it so important to attend? As a founder or fashion brand its important because you can connect with people from industries that you don’t have natural touchpoints with. It allows you to learn about new trends, best practices and lessons learned from established and upcoming brands.

“I realized its people’s mental constraints that have nothing to do with me. It is not my job to change to accommodate their mental limitations and biases”

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I love that you mentioned that ‘This is HER’ embarks a woman’s journey. This highlights the importance of owning high-quality pieces. What would you tell women in the workforce who are looking for pieces like this? Why is it so important to make sustainable purchases? Generally, from a female empowerment perspective, always consider that if you buy a cheaply made product that hasn’t been produced ethically with garment workers receiving a living wage, then you are hindering the progress of women. Some 80% of garment workers are women and they do not receive a living wage which would allow them to progress and at least send their kids to school, guaranteeing a better life for the next generation. We need to understand that as women with an increasing purchasing power we have the power to help the progression of some of the most

underprivileged women by making conscious purchasing decisions. If you talk about female empowerment and progression but continue to consume fast fashion brands, then your values are not in alignment. The phrase ‘you are what you wear’ gets a much deeper meaning when you consider that fashion represents your deeply rooted values. How would you describe your background and early career life? I started off in the Automotive sector and then moved into Strategy Consulting. I have a business/economics background and spent 10 years studying, working and living around the world, from California to Dubai, Johannesburg to London, Paris to Tel Aviv. After a PhD in Paris where I reconnected with myself, my desire to do something meaningful and in alignment with who I am, I finally moved to Berlin to start ‘This is HER’.

The biggest challenge you faced in your career and how did you overcome it? Being constantly underestimated because of being perceived as “too feminine”. It took some years until I did, and I definitely did not overcome it in an authentic way while working. Back in my corporate career I encountered this with working harder to prove people that I was capable despite them underestimating me. I also tried to draw as little attention to how I looked/ dressed as possible although it meant not being authentic. Today, however I just don’t care anymore and thus do not try to overcome it. I realized its people’s mental constraints that have nothing to do with me. It is not my job to change to accommodate their mental limitations and biases.

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When did you realize you weren’t the only woman who felt the same way? During my PhD in Paris I knew I wanted to do work wear differently, especially for the German market as it still works differently here than in France, Italy or other countries. After my studies I set out and spoke to as many women as possible: those in my network, personal and professional and women I didn’t know. I wanted to understand how widespread the problem was and how it was structured. After completing a survey with some 200 women I understood that work wear remained to be a nightmare for the majority of women and hence decided to take the plunge and change it – for myself and for other women.

What pushed you to just go for it? Well, I knew I had nothing to lose, only to gain. Though it took some solo travelling across the world and some facing my own fears and limitations until I gathered all my courage and moved to Berlin to create ‘This is HER’. How would you describe the ‘This is HER’ Blazer? The idea of our blazers is to equip women with an easy to style and pair armour which allows them to feel powerful and properly equipped for business while accentuating and not undermining their femininity. We do so with a fitted but not constraining cut, elevated shoulder polsters as opposed to wide ones which are normally used to suggest masculinity

(aka wide masculine shoulders = power). We know being feminine means being strong and so our blazers underline femininity perfectly while being easy to pair and style. What is your go-to dress code/style? For work? Depending on how formal either a Jeans with a blazer and heels to easily transform into work mode. If it’s more formal a colour matching pant or skirt with a usually patterned/ colourful blouse and a blazer to put on top. Who is your style icon? Oh, there are many. Some old-time favorites from one of my favorite eras are Grace Kelley who always looked so elegantly feminine and natural. Everything was well dosed, never too aggressive, vulgar or anything like that. Same applies for Jackie Kennedy. Though this might be more a time related subtle extravaganza and elegance paired with a strong sense of femininity. More contemporary style icons would be Mira Duma and Carolina Issa. Carolina is elegant yet playful. I love how her clothing portrays this feminine strength and confidence without being aggressive. She combines tailored and formal pieces with more playful (colourful and patterned) pieces. I also adore Mira Duma’s style because it is sooo diverse and just very individual. I also feel that Mira Duma manages to marry different cultures and eras. She is one of the few women that

wears a headscarf with various outfits and makes it look so contemporary and effortless. For me these women have quite an individual approach to style and really use fashion as an extension of their essence, to express who they are at the core and that’s why they resonate with me. During your Berlin FashionTech presentation, you mentioned plans of creating travel essentials in the future. What are your goals for HER X Universe and how can we reach this goal together? Our goal is to become the first address for the fashionable, modern female professional that looks to dress professionally but yet authentically feminine, while being conscious. We have started very focused by introducing a blazer because we want to perfect one product and be known for doing one thing well. instead of flooding the market with half-heartedly created products. Going forward we want to extend our product range to accommodate all the essentials a modern female professional on the go needs. These essentials extend into other garments as well as travel kits to freshen up and fight jetlag for the busy women on the go. What has been the most important learning point in your career? If you have to change to fit in, it’s not your place so you have to create your own place.

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Meet the women who can grant your most luxurious wishes — Money, money, money, must be funny in a…millennial’s world? By next year, 50% of luxury consumers are expected to be younger than 30 years old, and by 2025 millennials and Gen Z will supposedly make up 45% of the luxury market. The world’s leading luxury lifestyle group, Quintessentially, wants to be there every step of the way - whether it’s securing a last-minute reservation at the hottest restaurant in town, or organising an awe-inspiring travel adventure. MESS MAGAZINE SAT DOWN WITH ANNASTASIA SEEBOHM, THE GROUP CEO OF QUINTESSENTIALLY, AND COCO BARAER PANAZZA, HEAD OF COMMERCIAL PARTNERSHIPS, TO LEARN MORE.

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“I fundamentally believe that life is about human connections, it’s about connecting to others, it’s about connecting to yourself, it’s about new places, new experiences.” What are your members most desired services? Annastasia: We look after all elements of our members’ lives and focus on helping to save our members time and connect them to incredible experiences around the world. From recommending and booking restaurants, sourcing tickets for shows and sporting events, finding nannies, housekeepers, tutors or music teachers, to finding properties, curating art collections, helping with last minute gift requests, or even organizing weddings. Travel is top of the list; our members are curious, adventurous and constantly seeking new experiences and the chance to discover new places. Whether that’s visiting a new country and seeing something spectacular, giving back to a local

community, or getting immersed in a culture by learning to cook amazing local dishes or to understand its history. Travel opens the mind and creates long lasting memories, connections and stories to share. Any others? Our members are placing a greater importance on philanthropy and there is a growing desire to give more to charitable causes. Through our Quintessentially Foundation we organise a number of philanthropic experiences, bringing together our teams and our members all over the world – we’ve cycled from Paris to Monaco, raced tuktuks across India, created a parade of colourful model elephants across London and much more.

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What services are available for your members interested or working in fashion? Coco: It’s our responsibility to keep our members connected and inspired by curating experiences that speak to their passions, and fashion is certainly one of them. From organising tickets and front row seats at global Fashion Weeks to behind the scenes access with designers, private visits of ateliers and first looks at limited editions and fashion drops. We’ve also hosted intimate dinners with designers globally to showcase their new collections and share the inspiration behind them. For our members working in Fashion, during ‘fashion month’ their requests fall under two categories; getting in to hotels, restaurants, parties - blending ‘hot places’ with hidden gems and getting around from hotel to show via hair and makeup and coffee stops. On the client side, our luxury marketing and experiential agency leverages our expertise in the HNW/UHNW space to help fashion brands build oneto-one relationships with their top clients and drive loyalty. Brands also come to us to support them with long-term acquisition whether through targeted marketing campaigns, brand partnerships or experiences that tell their story and connect them to the right audiences.

How does the team hunt down the best experiences for your clients? Coco: We’re a business built on trusted and personal relationships, and each of our team is passionate and dedicated to seeking out the very best for our members. It starts with a conversation, to understand what our members are really looking for – we have to know what excites them, where their interests lie and what makes them tick. We then look to our global network of the best creators, curators and partners to create and access unique experiences. Our teams all over the world are constantly monitoring trends - we spend time gathering feedback from our members and clients, and build authentic connections with the people and brands who we believe are making waves in the luxury market. We create the best experiences by knowing each member, and making sure that the touchpoint is exactly right for that individual.

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Annastasia, what is your vision as a CEO for the company?

BECOME A QUINTESSENTIALLY MEMBER HERE: WWW.QUINTESSENTIALLY.COM

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Annastasia: Our job is always to be ahead of the curve, and to be the benchmark for excellent service. We are creating more bespoke, personalized adventures, events and travel experiences than ever before, as well as highly stylized and curated editorial content catered to the passion points of our members. We aim to be the most connected group of individuals around the world. I fundamentally believe that life is about human connections, it’s about connecting to others, it’s about connecting to yourself, it’s about new places, new experiences. Our goal is to help members enrich their lives, be inspired and be innovated.

How does the approach differ when you’re working with a corporate company compared to an individual? Coco: There are certain processes you may need to adhere to with a corporate client, set focuses or points of interest already in place that we need to follow or create experiences around. However, whether it’s an individual or a corporate client, the idea of a personal approach is at the forefront –it’s up to us to understand the client, however big or small, to collect the right data and make informed decisions that will allow us to provide excellent service and deliver result-driven programmes, maintaining long-term partnerships.

How many people have a membership? Annastasia: We have 160,000 members. Europe is our biggest region followed by the US and then the Middle East and Asia Pacific. How do you think the luxury sector is changing? Annastasia: Again the idea of connectedness is so important. There was a definite shift, from investing in a sought after product, to wanting to invest in an experience and create a lasting memory, and now wanting to connect – with new people, places and purpose. Human relationships make you more conscious, and our members are much more socially and environmentally aware.

What does luxury mean to you? Annastasia: Time. Time for me is so precious and my number one luxury is having the time to spend with people I love – family and friends. I also love learning – the chance to explore new cities, meet new people – I have an insatiable curiosity and love to discover new things. In terms of materialistic things? Anastasia: Boats, I love being out on the water. Coco: For me luxury is about being authentic and unique. It’s about creating a memory, and really going above and beyond a product. Going to a fabulous restaurant is luxurious, but meeting the chef, understanding the inspiration behind the food, finding out his story, his passion and what he brings to table – having the opportunity to be

taught by him, to experience a masterclass – to me, that’s true luxury. Where do you think the company will be in five years? Annastasia: Our aim is to continue to evolve and expand the many ways in which we impact the lives of our Quintessentially members, clients and fellow brand partners. We will continue to develop and cater to the growing millennial audience, the younger, more digitally focused consumer, and our existing member base. I am sure we will open more offices and we aim to continue to grow our Foundation and the philanthropic work we do. I want us to remain relevant in all cultural and lifestyle conversations. I’m really excited for what the future holds.

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Mess Magazine got the chance to sit with the talented Jordana Guimaraes to discuss her business, passion, and life lessons. Guimaraes and her husband, Marcelo founded Fashionnovation in 2018 — The company brings together international leaders, CEOs, entrepreneurs, and fashion designers, to inspire conversations that lead to revolutionary change within the flourishing industry.

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How would you say Fashionnovation has changed the industry?

What motivated me to start Fashinnovation alongside your husband Marcelo? We have always had an admiration for entrepreneurs, in that they have power to make things happen -­they are the decision makers. We live in a world right now that needs lots of good social impact to be done, in order for it to better itself. Technology & Fashion are two of the biggest industries in the world. We figured it would be perfect to use these industries that have so much influence on society, to speak of topics which benefits the brands/companies but also to make the world a better place. This is why our slogan behind Fashinnovation is “Fashion Is to Love”. What is the inspiration behind the name? My husband -­who is my partner -­has always worked in entrepreneurship with a focus on innovation and I have been in fashion PR for almost 20 years. Fashinnovation was the perfect combination of us merging as one.

We have brought CEOs and Founders of companies together that have been able to help start ups grow via investments, collaborate together to create together new innovations to shape trends, take away pinpoints in the industry via open conversations & debates on stage, etc. Most importantly, having become a portal where people can come for relevant information when it comes to fashion & tech alongside sustainability, diversity, etc. Growing up in Brazil, how hard was it to get costumed in the U.S? It was tough because in Brazil, being that preservatives aren’t commonly used in foods, we are used to “organic” being the “norm”. Where in the US you pay a high price to eat something that shouldn’t have been injected in the first place. However, it was easy in the sense that the US offers so much opportunity to be whoever you want to be through hard work and perseverance -­where in Brazil its not as easy due to people who sometimes are put in charge to run the country.

AND LIVIA FIRTH OF ECOAGE

“Growing up in Brazil as a kid who had everything and seeing people next door that had nothing, it was a tough pill for me to swallow.”

JORDANA, HER HUSBAND MARCELO

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JORDANA (WEARING FARM RIO DRESS & VOLTA BAH), COCO ROCHA & MARCELO (WEARING A SHIRT PAINTED BY JASON NAYLOR AND SUIT BY HALL MADDEN)

What is the back story of The Nylon Project? The NYLON Project is an initiative I started to “give a face” to homelessness. I called it NYLON originally as I wanted to focus on London and New York. Hence, NY LON. However, I realized I should focus on one region at a time as its a huge undertaking. Growing up in Brazil as a kid who had everything and seeing people next door that had nothing, it was a tough pill for me to swallow. I finally decided now that I’m older and living in the US with marketing and PR capabilities and how powerful social media can be, to use that to give a voice to the homeless.

What do you want people to gain from reading your book, “It Can Be You?” In this book I gathered 50 of the top fashion influencers in the country to share their story of the biggest hurdle they’ve overcome in their lives and how they did it. I then raised $10K on GoFundMe a few years back and got a street team to give out meals to homeless in NYC and get their stories of how they wound up on the streets. We then do a side by side comparison in the book to show people that “it can be you”. It will give people more compassion towards the issue -­rather than judge it -­to want to help more!

How important is homeless awareness to you and how do you think people can help? VERY!! All most of them want, is to have people show they care. A simple “Hi” or “Have a good day” goes a long way. There are also many organizations doing incredible work. We are all human -­we all deserve 2nd and 3rd chances. Any advice to future activists/entrepreneurs? “Just Do It” -­it’s the only way for change to happen!

JORDANA WITH LARRY MILSTEIN

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Celebrating the African Woman: Meet Cynthia Abila — Cynthia Abila is an Abuja-based Nigerian designer who made her first runway debut at the 2018 Lagos Fashion Week. Her designs seek to portray her local roots while exploring the idea of the traveling woman. With every piece, Abilia strives to celebrate womanhood, culture, and sustainable craft - and we absolutely adore it. Made for women with all shapes and sizes, Abilia hopes to empower the modern-day boss lady through colorfully driven aesthetics. WE SAT DOWN WITH THE EXPRESSIVE DESIGNER AND LEARNED HOW THIS UNIQUE BRAND GOT ITS START:

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“Style and culture are portrayed by sometimes adorning fashionable pieces with elaborate coral beadwork, which indicates identity and status within the community.”

How important do you think traveling is for the soul?

What motivated you to create this brand? Ultimately, my passion for culture and storytelling motivated me to create this brand. I love well-crafted narratives that I express through my pieces to capture people’s attention and evoke positive emotions. What is your number one driving force? My driving force is my ambition and sheer refusal to quit. I never shy away from a challenge. It drives me to move forward.

Travelling revives your passion and fuels your inspirations. Travelling is healthy for your soul to be creative and constructive because you see new places, experience new cultures and meet new people. Generally, it resets your body and frees your soul from stress and depression and revitalizes your overall mental health and strength. How do you nurture your soul? • • • • •

I take time to meditate in serene environments. I exercise regularly I laugh a lot. I love without conditions I spend time in my creative space.

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How do you portray style and culture in your pieces? Every Cynthia Abila piece is infused with our history and heritage and full of cultural expressions with modern aesthetics. The pieces are mostly made from locally hand-woven cotton which is a traditional fabric of bold colorful patterns of the Niger Delta area of Nigeria. Style and culture are portrayed by sometimes adorning fashionable pieces with elaborate coral beadwork, which indicates identity and status within the community. Cultural illustrations like silhouettes and seasonal attributes are also depicted in our collections.

What is your favorite piece? My favorite piece is the ‘Naza’ skirt What do you want people to take away from Cynthia Abila? I want Cynthia Abila to be viewed as a fashion-forward ethical brand that focus on user needs and defines individualism. What are the three things that the brand stands for and how do you portray them? • • •

We focus on user needs. We make eco-friendly and lasting products so our customers could live in a more environmentally friendly way. Individualism: 0ur pieces emphasize on individual style desires of every customer. We are a sustainable brand.

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Q & A with Nicoline Hansen — Nicoline Hansen launched her sustainable fashion line, Nicoline Hansen in 2014. Her collection includes biodegradable latex pieces combined with unique, artistic craftmanship. Hansen’s sheer top with hand-painted details, studded belt and pink latex skirt were recently featured at Vegan Fashion Week in Los Angeles. She has many aspirations and one of them is to change the world with her designs. It all started when she was a child and began designing clothing for her barbie dolls - “Fierce warrior outfits or beautiful and feminine gowns. A duality that still exists in me today. At this young age, I already knew that I wanted to be a fashion designer.” WE SPOKE WITH NICOLINE ABOUT HER BRAND, HER BACKGROUND AND WHAT INSPIRED HER TO BECOME A DESIGNER, SUSTAINABLE FASHION AND WORKING WITH LATEX, AND OF COURSE, HER GORGEOUS COLLECTION, NICOLINE HANSEN AND WHAT HER GO-TO PIECES ARE.

PHOTOGRAPHY — GABRIEL ORTEGA / @IIAMLEGEND FASHION & STYLING — NICOLINE HANSEN / @NICOLINEHANSENCPH MAKEUP & HAIR — ISABELLE MAHEALANI / @INKLINGSTYLE MODEL — ANGEL LIN AT ASTON MODELS / @ANGELMYDARLING

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“I strive to create clothes that will last several years. A design that makes the wearer feel beautiful and daring, a good well-thought-of fit, and materials that will endure and not harm the environment.�

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How would you describe Nicoline Hansen, the brand? The brand is all about creating artistry in latex. I founded Nicoline Hansen in 2014 because I wanted the freedom to create with my own voice and with my own ideals. The goal has always been to push boundaries while creating artistic, yet sustainable fashion. When I wrote my bachelor thesis, I chose to write and experiment with latex. The uncharted material constantly inspires me to fabricate elegant and raw designs while combining it with traditional materials, thereby creating wearable art. From delicate hand-painted flowers on sheer fabrics to armor-like black latex combined with cotton. Soft dreams and dark shadows. The collections are composed of silky latex skirts, mesh-sandals, avant-garde showpieces, accessories, and more. Can you tell us about your background and when you realized you wanted to be a designer? I grew up in a small village a few hours from Copenhagen. My mother would often make clothes for me and my sister when we were children, and this inspired me to create small pieces of clothes for my Barbie Dolls. Fierce warrior outfits or beautiful and feminine gowns. A duality that still exists in me today. At this young age, I already knew that I wanted to be a fashion designer.

After I graduated from high school, I entered Teko School of Design and worked for a few Danish designers, before I decided to pursue my own dreams and create my own brand. Hand-painting, laser-cutting and stunning craftsmanship are a huge part of your work. Can you explain more about why you decided to incorporate them into your collection? My passion is to invent new designs and shift mindsets. I love to combine old ways with new ways and explore possible designs by experimenting. I create my collections from these experiments, and I love to combine my drawing-skills with the draping of fabrics and paper on the body. I think it is important to create designs that spark joy and makes the wearer treasure them and use their items for many years. A good design should be wellconsidered and made with love, and therefore I care about incorporating hand-made and artistic craftsmanship into my collection. What does fashion mean to you? To me, fashion is mankind’s expression of culture and way of telling their story. Through fashion, you can show where you belong and hint who you are without any words. At its best, fashion can be a proud profession. To walk at the forefront and to inspire people.

I believe very much in the future of slow-fashion: To create designs that can be used for several years and speaks directly to the wearer instead of creating blind trend-following items.

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What/who inspires you? Expressions in my environment inspire me. The symmetry of a leaf, the way birds move through the air, how people create art. I love to take in the things that I see and use it. To draw is to really see and understand an object in its complete form and I like to use this as an inspiration for my designs. Experimenting to reach one idea and discovering a new design through the draping of a fabric or how the liquid latex on a material works differently than expected. Style icon? I don’t really have one person as a style icon, but I admire other women such as designer Vivienne Westwood, who dares to stand out even though she doesn’t meet the usual standards of being young and beautiful. The importance of sustainability? An incredible amount of waste is being produced by the fashion industry. When someone buys something just because it is cheap, it is bad all the way. From the country in which it is produced with no regards to the chemicals that stain the environment, the workers who labor under horrible conditions, the stores who go bankrupt because most of their products go on sale to compete with the low prices and even to the users of the garments who think they gain something for a small amount of money, but actually becomes poorer when they give money to something they will barely use and it ends up in a landfill in their backyard. There are many who work on

solving these problems and I think it is important to find environmentally friendly materials and alternatives to these bad practices, but what could really make a big difference, is to buy less and invest in pieces that you will cherish and love for many years to come. How does your brand practice sustainability? I strive to create clothes that will last several years. A design that makes the wearer feel beautiful and daring, a good wellthought-of fit, and materials that will endure and not harm the environment. Latex is the material that I use the most. It is sustainable, vegan and contrary to what most people think, is not made from plastic, but plants. It is also very important for me to have a healthy work environment where people thrive and get fair wages and good working conditions. I want to be the change that I want to see in the world. I wasn’t aware that latex was sustainable! How cool. Can you tell us more about how it’s made and why you decided to work with it? Latex is made from tree sap, similar to the white liquid you find inside dandelions. The latex I use is made from rubber trees in the rainforest. One tree can live for around 20-25 years and you can cut the bark to get the tree sap - around 3-5 liters every day. Latex is a strong and biodegradable material that can be used in many ways. I buy latex sheets, cut them and either glue with liquid latex or sew them together with traditional

fabrics. In latex’ liquid form it is also possible to dye the latex with pigments and either paint with it or pour it into molds to get different shapes and interesting surfaces. The many possibilities that the material holds really speaks to my inner inventor. What makes latex so special? Latex is a great alternative to leather since it doesn’t harm animals, it leads to less waste and it is biodegradable. But it doesn’t only try to mimic leather, it has its own look - shiny or matte and in many colors. Compared to leather and plastic, it also holds its form perfectly, it is stretchy and moves with the body. Latex is very much a

statement fabric and I feel empowered when I wear it. What is your go-to piece from your collection? I use my belts all the time! They are very pleasant to wear because the latex is very flexible and non-restraining. They can add something raw to a pair of pants and they are lovely to gather shirts. They even work with an elegant dress and help emphasize my waist. What do you enjoy most about creating custom designs? I have created designs for both theatre, musicians, and people who want something special made for them. My favorite part is their smile when they receive something that I have worked on for days upon days, knowing that they are happy with what I made for them. What are your hopes for the future of Nicoline Hansen? In the future, I hope to become an even stronger voice in the sustainable fashion industry. I am constantly searching for better fabrics to incorporate with my latex, making my brand completely biodegradable and vegan. I want to become the best at creating luxury clothes in latex and show an alternative to what currently exists. What is the message behind your line? Empowerment, elegance and freedom. Clothes that you cherish and feel good in.

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The Development of the MAYU— M A Y U is a luxury sustainable brand for all who believe that style is more than just the physical aspect, it’s a true reflection of who they are, their past, and their future. Mayura Davda, Founder & Creative Director of M A Y U was always passionate about making a difference in the world and had an entrepreneurial spirit. She began her journey when she was 13 years old. “I designed and handmade jewelry to be sold during special occasions and festivals using a combination of unique materials,” she said. Davda then went on to pursue a degree in Mechanical Engineering at Purdue University which connected her with a diverse and inspiring group of people from all over the world by traveling to China, Germany and the United States. AFTER GRADUATING SHE DECIDED TO GO TO GRADUATE SCHOOL TO STUDY GENERAL MANAGEMENT. DURING HER TIME THERE SHE WENT ON A TRIP TO ICELAND WITH A GROUP OF FRIENDS, AND IN NOVEMBER 2015 SHE FELL IN LOVE WITH THE NATIVE ART, LANDSCAPES, HISTORY AND CULTURE OF ICELAND.

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M A Y U’s debut collection, The Golden Circle was inspired by the gorgeous, scenic route in Iceland, which ranges 300 km across the entire country. It is our tribute to this land of fire and ice, Iceland for it is the very place where the concept of M A Y U originated. It is from the stunning landscapes of Iceland that I used as my inspiration for the collection - the mystical dancing Auroras, the black sand beaches, the mesmerizing moss-clad volcanic mountains served as the canvas for our brand’s inspiration. Davda has many favorites of the collection, but her favorite piece of the moment is the Laia cross body bag in Forest. It’s a bag for any occasion that goes with any look, from traveling to an evening out, the Laia is the perfect accessory. It’s a long flat chain in our signature champagne gold plating allows me to wear it with all kinds of jewelry (be it

traditional or modern) and its length can be adjusted to wear in different ways. Without the chain, it turns into a dramatic clutch which is what you need to create a statement at the next gala. M A Y U focuses on accessories because you can never grow out of them. They are independent of your body size, age and can be easily passed down from one generation to another. Accessories & handbags also have utility, so they are not simply of ornamental value, but have a purpose to address. Where do you see M A Y U in 2 years? I’d like to grow M A Y U into a global go-to multi-category sustainable luxury lifestyle brand providing not just products but experiences that define luxury and sustainability.

In the next 2-3 years, we wish to diversify horizontally as a brand and make way into different categories of accessories and in different geographies. We will continue to use new and innovative sustainable materials in all that we design and craft while also giving back to the communities we thrive and flourish in! We also look forward to some exciting collaborations with stores, other complementary brands and more. The juxtaposition of fashionable and feasible is rendered possible with the help of material innovation and technology. Ethically sourcing and crafting products which are durable, eco-friendly and high quality is a pragmatic outcome of the effective amalgamation of fashion and tech. The impact of

this union can be universal if there is the will and determination to make a change. What do you hope for the future of sustainability and fashion combined? The era of Enlightenment 2.0 is here and the big guns in the fashion industry are taking it head on. Deconstructing the crescendo of the traditional anti-environmental practices we now embrace the sustainable and holistic guanxi of nature and man. Stress upon the durability, quality of the prototypes increases as the world roars about the degrading climate change. Catastrophes are upon us and its high time to exercise one’s personal agency in reclaiming socio-environmental

responsibility. A massive utilitarian and sustainable shift towards alternative material usage, production and disposal mechanisms is seen recently. Though brands are to do their part ethically, however a true change in the industry can start off with the customer’s demand. 16-year old Swedish climate activist Greta Thunberg, expressed her concerns at the United Nations Climate Action Summit in September, saying “For more than 30 years the science has been crystal clear. How dare you continue to look away and come here saying you are doing enough, when the politics and solutions needed are nowhere in sight.”

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Technology is the driving force for this paradigm shift even for the fashion industry; as disruptive tech becomes more accessible and effective reach of communication is possible. Technology is also enabling innovations in materials and processes that can propel us towards a sustainable future. With the growing roots of AI, Machine Learning, along with advances in crypto currencies

and block chain have stirred a revolution within the sector. The aim is to bridge the gap between various production sub-sectors by deploying new systems. Transparency and distribution are regulated at a more consumer-centric level which makes the products more affordable and valuable at the same time. Advances in technology is directly

“We will continue to use new and innovative sustainable materials in all that we design and craft while also giving back to the communities we thrive and flourish in!� proportional to exponential increase in mass production and with steep curve, retailers need to upskill to the growing demands of this changing landscape. This is the time to galvanize ourselves and embrace the Industrial Revolution 4.0.

The juxtaposition of fashionable and feasible is rendered possible with the help of material innovation and technology. Ethically sourcing and crafting products which are durable, eco-friendly and high quality is a pragmatic outcome of the effective amalgamation of fashion and tech. The impact of this union can be universal if there is the will and determination to make a change.

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Copenhagen may have been once known as one of Fashion Week’s underdog cities, but in the last couple of years it’s hosted some of the hottest designers right now, from GANNI to Cecile Bahnsen, and this year has been especially exciting — Whilst sustainability in fashion has been increasingly crucial, Copenhagen have gone the extra mile to dedicate their whole fashion week to the cause, with their Sustainability Action Plan 2020-2022. This week has been devoted to ‘reducing negative impacts, innovating [their] business model and accelerating industry change’, and it’s made the event that extra bit impactful. FROM NEW AND THRIVING DESIGNER HELMSTEDT’S PLAYFULLY COLOURFUL SHOW TO INFLUENCER FAVOURITE BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN’S CLEAN CUT SHAPES AND DREAMY EVERYDAY WEAR, SCANDI DESIGNERS ARE SETTING A WONDERFULLY HIGH STANDARD WITHIN THE INDUSTRY.

IMAGE CREDIT — WWW.COPENHAGENFASHIONWEEK.COM

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Brand new sustainable brand Carcel opened up the week, with an empty runway and a crowd full of spectators. Instead of showcasing any of their own work, they asked the audience to step up onto the runway and walk down it, making a comment on the fact that we don’t always need to be looking out for the next hot item of clothing, and what we’re wearing is already enough. It was a stronger take on Vivienne Westwood’s new message of ‘buy less’, as she vowed to design and produce less fashion pieces (whether or not she’s succeeded is another argument entirely). It was a powerful statement to kick start Copenhagen’s sustainablefocused fashion event, and it definitely set the tone.

Notable designers continued to grace the runway, including ROTATE Birger Christensen and Malene Birger, but there were some names that really stood out for me this year. STAND STUDIO continued to take on current trends including grungy leather and animal print and showcased a very exciting new collection, with a strong mixture of structural cuts, vibrant prints, fun furs and jaw-dropping leathers. Stine Goya’s show was not one to miss either, as their bright orange setting and quirky experimental band made the whole display an enjoyable watch. The pieces nodded towards the still-popular neon trend, whilst showcasing some fabulous geometric prints and relaxed, flowy cuts.

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GANNI fell slightly flat for me compared to past years, however their increasing use of recycled fabrics and sustainable approach to creating their clothes has to be commended for a brand that is in such high demand. I’m also glad they’ve finally moved away from the leopard print and puff sleeves. However, I struggled to see a single piece that got me excited for their next autumn/winter drop, which is something I usually expect from them.

The show was so much fun, and her each of her designs were unique. Whilst it’s arguably too garish for some, I absolutely adored all of it. The creativity behind those statement prints and vibrant complimentary colours really hit the mark and created a playful atmosphere I was desperate to be part of. For such busy pieces, they worked so well together and each look complimented the other. I couldn’t fault it!

“Scandi designers are setting a wonderfully high standard within the industry.”

Whilst most designers impressed and some slightly disappointed, there were two personal favourites of mine, where one slightly outshone the other. I’m a huge fan of Cecile Bahnsen, and her monochrome tones, airy dresses and stunning ruffle details made me love her even more. Her exquisite way of elevating a simple black puffy dress always get me excited. But Helmstedt was definitely the brand of the week for me. Their very first show was only last year, but the designer has gone from strength to strength with her bold, funky and anti-trend approach to creating garments.

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Reflecting the elegance and attitude of a Parisian woman, Utmon Es Pour Paris portrays craftsmanship in every design. Mess Magazine got an inside look into the empowering world of Utmon Es Pour Paris as it gives ode to Paris and the women who created it.

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Hi Erzsebet. Your brand, UTMON ES POUR PARIS is amazing, very elegant and feminine. How did you come up with an idea to start your own brand? I always have had the idea to start my own business from the time I can remember. It has always been a dream of mine and finally, in 2017, I got the courage to move forward with my idea and fulfill my lifelong dream of establishing my own brand and business. Nowadays more and more women stand up for themselves and start initiatives in business and politics. Back in the day, were you scared when you started your own venture? Did anyone tell you to give up before even starting? Of course, it is always scary to start something new. However, the excitement of a new adventure is also really exhilarating, and that alongside my vision, just kept me going. I have had a fair share of experiences with people constantly telling me to stop, and telling me why would I bother having a brand, that they thought might not survive the competition. As I priorly mentioned, I have already set my mind on my goals so I could not let anybody stop me from the decision of starting the brand.

Who or what inspired you to start UTMON ES POUR PARIS? I think this one is a little self-explanatory. I am inspired by delicacy, chicness, simplicity and above all practicality. For me, Paris has it all. Paris has always been the city of my dreams, inspirations, and adventures. On the other hand, from a very young age, traveling has been my priority and I have traveled a great deal all over the world. During my travels, I always had the feeling that I need something to keep me organized at all times, without me worrying that I have forgotten something. I felt something is missing. This conundrum, which I believe is an issue that everyone, at some point in their lives, has issues with, sparkled the idea of perfect portable pochette, something that I could not find anywhere in the market. So basically, I was inspired by my travels through the fashion world in Paris, and then I transformed my idea of minimalist, perfect design into a brand “Utmon Es Pour Paris”.

and see how people are enjoying having your products. It is definitely much hard work, but it is at the end of the day very rewarding. Tell our readers who are the woman you create your bags for. How does she look? What does she like? How old is she? Do you have a specific image in mind about your ideal client or you create bags for everyone? The Switchbag, which is our core product, is an all-rounder – just like its owner. It is designed for people who are always on the move, who fulfill countless roles at once, have a lot on their to-do list and just as much in their bags, but who do not wish to waste any time packing up all their equipment whenever they move from one place to the next. Utmon es pour Paris offers its brilliant customers a modern luxury that is as intelligent as they are. We are also expanding our products to produce light, chic and practical items for everyone to use and to enjoy. Could men wear your bags?

What do you love the most about creating fashion accessories? I can say I love everything about this branch. I love how creative you can be and that you have the possibility to create for people, and then see your work

Definitely. It goes without saying that the fashion industry is currently way different than what it was before, and I firmly believe men and women with a fine taste can wear our products and enjoy them regardless of their gender.

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UTMON ES POUR PARIS is definitely a luxury brand. Why do you think customers should choose your brand over fancy and hyped Gucci, Balenciaga, etc? Can people expect something more from you than from the others? Sustainability is a huge trend right now. Why did you choose to use sustainable materials, such as leather with special certificates? Do you support sustainability yourself? From the very beginning that I wanted to start my brand, I have had one mission and one goal in my mind - that was to use materials that are harmless for the environment, in order to create products exclusively and not in large bulks. I personally place particular value on sustainability, and I believe that this is the way that industry is moving forward to. Let’s talk about design. We know that your brand was awarded the German Design Awards special 2019. Why did you decide to manufacture your products in Germany and who’s behind the design of UTMON ES POUR PARIS bags? The manufacturing process takes place exclusively in Germany in a traditional factory that is among the best in the country. Since here, I am close to the production and I can inspect the process directly and personally to make sure that everything is done impeccably. The quality we are aiming for is only possible to have with the precision and durability of German craftsmanship.

We, in Utmon Es Pour Paris, aim at perfection and uniqueness. The brands you named have been around for a long time and we, as an up-and-coming brand do not intend to compare ourselves with other brands. We would like and plan to be unique, exclusive and build a novel brand from scratch. We respect our customers so we treat them with the highest importance and we make them our priority when manufacturing our brands. I think that it speaks for itself I do not think other brands have it. Although prices are high, you’re involved in charity. We know that you support the children’s aid organization Plan International. Could you tell our readers more about it? I believe that I have been fortunate enough to be able to establish my own brand and within the brand, I always try to do the right things, make the right moves to be sustainable and to avoid harming the nature and environment. However, I feel that this in itself is not enough and I would like to give more to the community and the world that is the source of my inspiration. I firmly believe in a united world and to have such a world everybody has to help and give something back.

“I firmly believe in a united world and to have such a world everybody has to help and give something back.” Everybody has to play their parts to make the world a better place. And Utmon Es Pour Paris always endeavors to do its part as much as it is possible. As everyone sees, the fashion industry changes significantly. Sustainability comes forward. What’s your prediction for the future? What do you think will happen with the fashion industry in the next 5 years? Well, we talked about it before and I believe sustainability is a new way of business and I think it is a trend that has come to stay. As the world is evolving, it

is even more necessary to keep it safe and clean with more vigor for us and for future generations. We need to think about the way we consume and be more cautious about the way we act, now more than ever, and this will definitely impact the course of the fashion industry as well. What’s your plan for UTMON ES POUR PARIS in the next 5 years? We are relatively a young brand and we are striving to keep our brand flourishing in this competitive market. I am happy

to say that we have been successful in placing our brand in the market. The next step for me is to expand my brand, open my own shop so that I can have the opportunity to interact directly and personally with customers. So for now, I can say I am trying to establish the name more than before in the physical market, as we already have a thriving online shop.

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Fashion meets art in Viktor + Rolf’s fashion house. Since 1993, the brand has been revolutionizing fashion by creating unique and conceptual designs — READ MORE BELOW AS MESS MAGAZINE GOT AN INSIDE LOOK INTO THE BRANDS AVANT-GARDE WORLD.

PHOTOGRAPHY — DAMO PHOTOGRAPHY

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Mess Magazine was introduced to the magical world of Wiwa Blue —

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This Montreal designer stands out with her elegant and enchanting designs that sparks imagination and delight with every piece.

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PHOTOGRAPHY — OMI CHOWDHURY DESIGNER — WIWA BLUE

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An Inside Look into Photographer Hilde Van Mas’s Creative Process — Growing up, Hilde Van Mas was no stranger to the expression of movement. A former ballet performer, Mas found inspiration through a different craft by transforming her passion for motion into capturing moments with photography. What connected both hobbies for her you may ask? It was “the gradual development of movement,” Mas said. Having worked with brands such as Dolce and Gabbana and Hermès, Mas has established quite a presence in the photography industry with even more collaborations on the way. LEARN MORE ABOUT THE 2018 PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR’S VERY ARTISTIC WORLD IN THIS EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH MESS MAGAZINE.

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VISIT VIZARDLONDON.COM/HILDE-VAN-MAS TO LEARN MORE ABOUT HILDE VAN MAS’S WORK AND DON’T FORGET TO CHECK OUT HER INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT, @HILDEVANMAS FOR A PEEK INTO HER STUNNING PROJECTS.

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“I am very strict to myself and my work, I am pushed by the fascination of doing things better and better.”

How do you educate yourself to take better pictures? By being very risk-loving, having the fundamental philosophy of pushing the border to a new limit every time I shoot and being curious. Curiosity for the new is a very dominant stimulus for my work. How did ballet inspire your love for photography? The gradual development of a movement and non-verbal transport of a feeling are always a big inspiration for my work. How is it working with brands such as Hermes and Dolce? What inspired you to get into photography? The intense desire to capture a millisecond of a soul or a feeling of a moment. Whose work has influenced you most? Federico Fellini, Glenn Gould, Egon Schiele. Richard Avedon, Guy Bourdin, Peter Lindbergh and Helmut Newton from the photographic point of view. Among your works, which one is your favorite? Why? I am very strict to myself and my work, I am pushed by the fascination of `doing things better and better.’ Below the line, I would definitely choose some of my artistic nude photography or portraits I took of actors/artists/ muses I have the honor to work with.

I feel humbled and honored when brands such as named give trust to my photographic handwriting. How was it winning Photographer of The Year 2018? Honestly said it was a surprise for me. The market is very tight and there are plenty of talented `eyes` …being honored with an award is a very big compliment to my passionate work. Any upcoming projects and collaborations we can look out for? A very big project is my personal work on a nudephotography project I am planning to finish by the end of next year. Another, probably life-changing, project is my planned move to Berlin / Paris in the upcoming year.

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What is your artistic workflow and how do ideas for photoshoots come to you? Inspiration is everywhere and constantly surrounding us. I get inspired by old film noir movies, art, cultures, and people I love. My strongest inspirations come from the moment itself and from my dreams. I often wake up in the night with a precise, cinematic mood for a shoot. What is one brand you’d like to work with? Very, very difficult to answer… I see numerous fascinating facets in many brands such as Gucci, Chanel, Saint Laurent, Dior… the brand list would be neverending. How do you think photography and art make you who you are? Having spent my whole youth on stage as a ballet dancer myself I have a very strong bonding, trust, and belief in any artistic discipline. Will you ever make your way back to ballet? Yes, as a theatergoer! Any advice for aspiring professional photographers?

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Three words: Obsession, curiosity, and honesty. Or maybe also as a quote by the German novelist Franz Kafka: ‘Follow your most intense obsessions mercilessly.’

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Fall/Winter Fashion Forecast; As Predicted by These Style Mavens — With fall and winter on the horizon its time to trade in the open-toe kitten heels and bright hues for cozy couture. I’m personally looking forward to the style transition and am eager to see what’s in the fashion forecast for cooler weather. Is there a chance of plush “bear” coats and cowboy boots remaining in the forecast? IN THIS SERIES ARTICLE WE ASKED A FEW TRUSTY, STYLE CONSCIOUS GALS THEIR PREDICTIONS, STARTING WITH STYLE BLOGGER, MARIJA KRSIKAPA. READ HER ‘7 DAY STYLE FORECAST’...

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OFF-WHITE FALL’19 FASHION SHOW FT. BELLA HADID

We can already see many high street shops starting with their fall collections. Many of the trends we have seen during the fashion weeks are not always wearable, so I think it would be very useful for you that I share my favorite autumn / winter 2019 trends which you can easily embed in your closet! I am sure that you already have in your wardrobe many pieces which you can style and be trendy this fall and winter! I hope this will give you some inspiration for the upcoming months! 1. Different prints. I have seen on the high street that the focus is on the dark floral print dresses and wild prints even on fur coats.

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The print which has been in-style for seasons is the check mate, which I noticed on the Off-white runway in Paris on Bela Hadid. I believe that this trend can be fun if you mix patterns and materials.

2. 70’s vibes. this is the trend about which I am personally excited about. Statement sleeves have been in-style since this spring, and it is a perfect transitional trend. I love puff sleeves since they can be styled in so many ways and they always bring a casual outfit to another level. Another trend which is inspired by the 70’s is definitely the trend of sequin colorful pieces. Many high street shops, such as Zara and Topshop are already focused on this trend. As you may know, I love sparkles, so I cannot wait to style some of the sequin pieces in the upcoming months! Also, extremely high neck lines on tops and dresses and over-sized blazers are going to be in this fall.

“I have noticed that many designers are creating long line belted coats in beige and brown which I love!” ZARA SEQUIN PANTS

3. As every other fall, leather is going to be a huge trend. I am a huge fan of black leather pants and I think every girl should have one good pair in her closet. However, this season leather will expand to many other clothing pieces and in different colors. I have noticed that many designers are creating long line belted coats in beige and brown which I love! For my wardrobe, this piece has already became an essential! 4. Who says that punk cannot be feminine? This trend is different from others and I find it very exciting! We have seen many designers styling leather with the most feminine pieces, such as tulle or lace, making it romantic even if edgy and black. This is a trend with which you can play with and it brings out your creativity and personality. During the fashion weeks, we could see Alexander McQueen and Balmain making this trend stand out.

5. Monochromatic look could be one of my favorite trends for this year. The most common is styled in all the same shades, but I also find it great combining different shades and patterns since it’s more fun and original. I would always choose bright colors for a monochromatic look, however brown color was the one which was prevailing on the runways of MaxMara. 6. Thigh high boots & Cowboy boots is a trend which will never go out of style. We could see this trend during the past seasons and it’s also present this year. Cowboy boots are everywhere and we could see them in many different materials, colors and lengths. 7. Even if fur and faux fur are in style every year, furry coats this year are different than last seasons. Why? Because designers are playing with their shape, length and color making this trend more fun and perfect for the grey winter days!

INTERV MESS MAGAZINE

VIEWS

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The collaborative spirit of Marco Antonio X Rankin — English fashion and portrait photographer Rankin and makeup artist Marco Antonio have just launched a new beauty book that celebrates their collaboration and artistic experimentation for the past four years. Rankin’s photography has been published in several famous publications such as Elle, Vogue, and Rolling Stone, and still exhibited in several galleries around the world. Marco Antonio a self-taught makeup artist, has worked with celebrities including Kesha and Naomi Cambell.

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Alongside 40 other published books, Rankin highlights his work with make-up artist Marco Antonio in their expressive book, Marco Antonio X Rankin. The book also includes a discussion between the artists stating their outlooks on beauty in today’s remarkable culture, as well as their flourishing careers in the world of art. LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS UNIQUE COLLABORATION AND THE INSPIRATION BEHIND THE DUO’S BOOK IN THIS EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH MESS MAGAZINE.

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Do you prefer beauty over fashion? What’s so inspiring to you about working on a beauty photoshoot rather than just a fashion one? Rankin: I love a beauty shoot because all I need is my team, a model and a great make-up artist. We can move quickly and we can play a lot more than in fashion. I’ve even been known to do three or four beauty shoots in one day; I get an idea and bang, we’re right there doing it. I love to work with different models and different artists, and beauty photography gives me this all the time. I get to try new techniques, and I get to learn about other people’s styles, backgrounds, and interests. If I did the same thing every day I would get bored, so my love of beauty photography is fundamentally about the freedom it gives me creatively.

Why did you choose to create a book with Marco Antonio? Rankin: I’ve been working with Marco for nearly five years now and over that time we have really grown together as creative collaborators. From his first shoot with me for HUNGER through to really experimental projects we’ve done with magazines like KING KONG, Marco has really become part of the fabric of my studio and my team. When I look back over our work together there are so many shoots I love and I really wanted to share them through print. It’s so easy nowadays to put a lot of energy and excitement into work, for it to go online, on social media, get a load of likes and then never be thought of again. Print makes things more permanent, books are things you return to for inspiration again and again. So by putting my favorite images with Marco into a publication, I’m really asking the audience to engage with our vision on a deeper level.

How did the creative process of creating the book look like? How did two of you come together to collaborate on the beauty book? Marco: We’ve worked together with Rankin for almost 5 years now. During one of the shoots, we discussed the possibility of collecting all of our projects in one place. That’s how the idea of Marco X Rankin was conceived. It’s been a dream of mine to do a book ever since I picked up ‘Making Faces’ by the iconic Kevin Aucoin (one of my biggest influences). Beauty book is a great way to highlight the journey, and leave the mark as a makeup artist. And what better person to do it with than the legendary photographer Rankin. We chose our favorite pictures and work on some more material for the book throughout the year. It was a very collaborative project. Rankin and I are always on the same page when it comes to work and the vision we share so the book came naturally.

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Why did you decide to release a book, instead of an online feature in a magazine or on social media? Marco: We are living in a very fast pace world. Social media constantly floods us with the stream of images which is interesting but very short-lived. It can be difficult to constantly battle for the attention of the viewer in social media so we decided to step away from it all for a minute and release an actual physical product. Something that people can touch, feel, come back to at any time. There is nothing better than having a book in your hands and study the images. I also really wanted to leave something behind, to highlight a certain point in my career, something that will not be lost. Define in 2-3 words the explosive style of Marco Antonio and Rankin shown in the book. Marco: Colour, Humour, and Detail.

MARCO ANTONIO X RANKIN IS AVAILABLE IN STORES AND ONLINE EVERYWHERE. BE SURE TO FOLLOW @RANKINARCHIVE AND @MARCOANTONIOLONDON FOR AN INSIDE LOOK INTO THEIR VERY ARTISTIC WORLDS.

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A lot of people use makeup and fashion as a way of expressing themselves. How do you channel your inner creativity and let it manifest as a fashion or beauty project? Marco: There is definitely more room for creativity nowadays. The lines between male and female beauty are more blurred and we have more types of faces that are commercially used. It gives me more opportunity to experiment.

“I love to work with different models and different artists, and beauty photography gives me this all the time.” I see makeup as an art form and with today’s technology that the beauty industry developed, it allows me to channel my creativity more precise than 20 years ago. The variety of colors, textures, products are all important tools that allow me to express myself and push boundaries when working on beauty projects. You have been working in the creative industry for some time, what’s your secret in staying relevant and choosing the projects or photoshoots that resonate with you? Marco: I think the first thing you need if you want to survive in this industry is passion. You also need resilience and patience, but talent and creative vision are most important. Skills can be taught. I like to think that after 23 years in this industry I have a style that people love and recognize. I’m a very

versatile makeup artist, I equally love being subtle as well as conceptual. I worked on so many projects over the years and I like to take on the new challenge but I think the projects that excite me most are those that push boundaries and allow me to experiment. Tell us one surprising or striking fact about the book, something that nobody knows. Marco: We had so many great pictures and only limited space in the book. We were literally going back and forth with the selected pics and the final version was agreed hours before the book went into printing. We were spoilt for choice on this project but I think the final selection is amazing and everybody who buys the book will have as much pleasure looking at the images as we had to create them.

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An interview with Melanie Perkins, CEO of Canva: Websummit 2019 — Here at Mess, we have had the pleasure of interviewing some incredibly talented entrepreneurs at WebSummit 2019 in Lisbon. We are so excited to be able to share with you an interview with the one and only Melanie Perkins. MELANIE, IS THE CEO AND CO-FOUNDER OF CANVA, AN ONLINE DESIGN AND PUBLISHING TOOL WHICH MAKES GRAPHIC DESIGN SIMPLE FOR EVERYONE.

Melanie, you have been a business woman your whole life, from selling scarfs at a very young age and then starting your first company, Canva, at the age of 19. Our question is, where did this drive come from at such a young age and how did you catch the business bug? When I was in high school, even primary school I would always put in a lot of work and effort to succeed. I believe that determination is like a muscle that must be exercised in order to grow. For example, after I had proven to myself that I could do a good school assignment, I would feel very satisfied. I like to be pushed outside my comfort zone as that is when I succeed and make the most progress. That’s not to say I wasn’t any less terrified when I made the call to see if I had sold a scarf!

So, how did you transition from selling scarfs to becoming the CEO of Canva? I started university at the age of 19 and I began teaching the design programme’s that we were learning from. My classmates and I, found that they were really complicated but I had the gift of being able to use them efficiently. I then started designing school year books in Australia, soon my mother’s living room became my office and my boyfriend became my business partner. We set to work trying to make the books really simple so that schools could log in and collaborate easily in making articles and pages etc. A few years later, people kept asking to use it for school dinner menus, interiors, posters and much more. We then thought that surely there were other products around that

“I visualize that you have a ladder that goes to the moon and you need to take small steps to get there each day.�

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were quick and easy to use, but to our surprise, there wasn’t. An investor was over from Perth and said that I could have a quick meeting if I went over to San Francisco, so I went. This was one of the first meetings I had with an investor and I experienced lots of rejection in the process of learning about investing. The year of 2012, we spent a year in development before ending up with a tech team in 2013 alongside investment and then we launched Canva. I have a question as a young woman, how did you feel when you were rejected and how did you overcome that? Good question, one most important thing to remember is that it is not just you. Every person regardless of their gender or background is being rejected. One quote I really love is ‘the reason we struggle with insecurity is because we compare our behind the scenes footage with everyone else’s highlight reel.’ If you think that everyone is having it easy, because you are reading the newspaper or a blog, that is really dis-empowering because it means you can’t change it. There is a concept in psychology that I love, internal vs external control. Internal meaning that you can change anything, external meaning you cannot and it is outside your control. I would always blame myself, ‘oh, my pitch set isn’t good enough’ every time I was rejected. This would lead to me refining over again then eventually, I landed investment . This very small difference really made a big difference, as I was able to attribute things that were in my power and that was where my focus went.

So what did you change in your pitch? Everything! I would start off by stating, ‘here is our product and this is what it does’ I learnt the hard was that this was unimportant to lead with. After we would get rejected, we would always hear the same feedback ‘you are the same as every other company!’ To fix this issue, we later added in a slide at the beginning of our pitch showing the gap in the market for us in relation to other companies. There was a huge gap in the market for easy, accessible design programmes that enabled a lot of creative freedom. We asked for advice instead of investment for a period of time! Do you think there is such a thing as entrepreneurial DNA and do you have it? There is problem solving DNA that is very similar to it. The love of having hard problems and solving them is the absolute essence of entrepreneurship. The goals I love are the ones that people say are impossible. I think liking things that are hard are definitely a common denominator. Hilariously, if you do a 16 personality test I have the personality type of the entrepreneur. When in fact, my personality is the exact opposite, an entrepreneur is extroverted and I am introverted, and very long term vision orientated. All of the things classified in entrepreneur is just not me.

Back to your beginnings, how did you start Canva and how did the desire come to you? Primarily, it was watching so many students struggle with the design programmes that I had these practical powers where I could use them. The students were constantly asking me what to do or having to look through the manual. It was really apparent then that people shouldn’t have to learn the programmes, the programmes should learn people. That basic premise was apparent, but whether or not I could build that feature was the question. I didn’t think I could go and build that entire vision when I started. But, at the time Facebook was just taking off and people did not have to take a course in Facebook, therefore, they shouldn’t have to in programme design. Are you still involved with Fusion year books? Yes, absolutely! Canva ended up buying fusion for a dollar. It was profitable but we decided so much of the IP from Canva was developed in Fusion and made a lot of sense to bring them together. You were rejected many times, when was the turning point you felt like this is really taking off, how did you get inspired in that moment to scale the business? I think there has been lots of different points where I thought ‘ this is working.’ But when I hear a customer achieving their goals through Canva, that is when it really brings it home. We have had so many stories from small businesses. For example, by using Canva, a lady found her

birth mother as she created a poster and posted it on Facebook. Sheriff offices use Canva to create wanted posters and just so many stories. Also, 50,000 schools are using Canva. We did a year of development, then we finally tested and people could get in and use it easily. How do you feel being in the industry that is dominated by male founders, is it more difficult being a woman? It wasn’t something I had given much attention to as I grew up with 2 brothers and we were always fighting about Maths tests and exam results. I heard the stats years later I was like that’s a crazy unbalance. I had never grown up thinking there was any difference between males and females, or what they should accomplish or the size of their dreams. I think that was fortunate as the internal and external work it didn’t even cross my mind. What is success to you? We have a 2 step plan. 1. Build one of the worlds largest most stable companies and 2. Do the most good we can do. Success is still a far distance away, little steps everyday. We believe in a happy community, happy team and happy investors. What would need to happen you could feel really successful? Solve all the world’s problems. Constant aspiration is needed. Are you currently working on any other projects right now? Very much focused on Canva, it is more than a full time job!

What inspires you to keep going, any routines? I have this crazy opportunity before me that I am so grateful to have, how we can use that platform to do good in the world is our priority. Women will be reading this interview, wanting to start their own business, what advice would you give them? I think 2 pieces of advice that sound contradictory but they are not. Spend a lot of time imagining and thinking about the future and think what do you want the world to look like in the future, and go through different industries. The more clear you can get the image of the world you would like to see, the better. I know, that is very intimidating as you cannot just go out and change the entire world’s future in a day. So take that back and figure out what is the first small step you could possibly do, for me making that scarf business, so tiny but it gave me more confidence and experience to take the next step. I visualize that you have a ladder that goes to the moon and you need to take small steps to get there each day. Internal or external? Vision is internal you have to have a clear picture of what you want to create before you can. You can only go as big as your dreams do. Do not make the first step to go out and make money as that will not work and its hard, try to figure out how to teach a class or sell a tiny product. Try and make something that isn’t too reliant on others.

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ILLUSTRATION BY BATHI ON 99DESIGNS

Elevating human creativity: Interview with 99designs CEO, Patrick Llewellyn — There’s something magical about people helping people to create their own success. As the CEO of 99designs, Patrick Llewelyn is responsible for creating opportunities to help them achieve their goals. The reality of it is, he gets a lot of satisfaction from seeing people grow and creating their own success through his platform. WE CAUGHT UP WITH PATRICK DURING THE RECENT WEB SUMMIT IN LISBON, PORTUGAL TO CHAT ABOUT 99DESIGNS AND HIS VISION FOR THE FUTURE.

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WANT TO LEARN MORE? TUNE INTO LLEWELLYN’S

Tell us about 99designs – what is your vision? With offices in Oakland, Berlin and Melbourne, 99designs is a global platform that connects clients with freelance designers. We are here to champion creativity to bring opportunities to people around the world and we aim to be the most trusted global creative platform for professional creators to find and do work. So, what that means in practical terms is connecting designers in our really active and engaged global community with great clients from all over the world, but also empowering entrepreneurs and businesses who need creative help in bringing their brand to life. They have a job thanks to the platform, wow. Yes, there’s a lot of work being done on 99designs – last year we paid designers in more than 150 countries. From our recent global survey of freelance designers, we know a lot of designers leave agency jobs to freelance because they ultimately want the flexibility and freedom it gives them, and many get paid better [and in USD] than they would elsewhere. Right now, we’re paying out around $3.5 million USD a month to our community.

PANEL ON GLOBALIZATION IN THE DESIGN INDUSTRY FROM WEB SUMMIT 2019.

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How the current trend of globalization is affecting you? Globalisation is a really positive and exciting thing for the design industry. Platforms like ours connect people with the work

they want to do, wherever they are in the world, and provide different people with access to opportunities that simply weren’t available before. A borderless design industry means we get to hear from different voices, and those voices have equal power no matter where they’re from. That’s something we just haven’t really seen in the wider industry before. Do you feel like you’re a father for all these people? When I think about the progression of the staff within the organization and our designers outside…the reality of it is we get a lot of satisfaction from seeing people growing, seeing people creating their own success and so I do feel proud of what they’re achieving, but also a lot of responsibility. Empowering people to work wherever, whenever they want is a new up and coming trend, wouldn’t you agree? Definitely. We are seeing younger designers leave agency jobs faster and embarking on freelance careers sooner than ever before. A huge number – more than 40% – have also lived and worked in more than one country, and this is across all age groups. Designers are definitely embracing the digital nomad lifestyle.

ALBUM ART BY ASVETA ON 99DESIGNS

ALBUM ART BY ASVETA ON 99DESIGNS

So how did you come up with this idea of having this platform for freelancers? 99designs actually began as a forum community that was part of a different company called Sitepoint, where designers were creating fictional briefs for each other to use as a resource for learning, self-expression and feedback. One day, someone reached out to the community for ideas for a website logo design, and offered to pay for the best idea. This organic behavior led the team to spin out 99designs as a separate business and platform, and it grew from there.

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“We are seeing younger designers leave agency jobs faster and embarking on freelance careers sooner than ever before.”

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How many people do you have signed up and working now on 99designs? At any one time there’s around 10,000 designers online. We have some people who are really active, and others who just use 99designs on the side as a creative outlet alongside a day job. If you’re doing corporate web design all day, but your passion is really something like book cover design, for example, then we’re a great place to fulfill that. Are platforms like Canva your enemy? Not at all. Tools like this are becoming increasingly easy for people to use and have

democratized design in a way we have never seen before. We’re all about elevating human creativity and we want to empower people with great design. For example, we recently partnered with Squarespace to power Squarespace Marketplace, which is a platform that connects people who want help building their website with a curated group of Expert web designers, all using 99designs infrastructure. We really see this as the future in terms of working with partners to connect people with the right creative talent at the exact point they need it.

So, who are your competitors? Upwork, Fiverr, Freelancer.com, Toptal — really anyone who is connecting human work online. What did you do before 99designs, do you like being its CEO? I used to work in corporate finance, so I’m a business guy, I’m not a designer. That being said, I love helping people. I think there’s something magical about when people help people to create their own success. Creativity is at its best when its people collaborating together. Why did you come to Web Summit?

COSMETICS PACKAGING BY HUNTRESS ON 99DESIGNS

We wanted to get the news out about our global designer survey, so this was a great opportunity to share the findings with a really engaged audience. Being in Europe and coming from Australia, it was also a good chance to spend some time with our team in Berlin. Last weekend the whole team spent two nights in Novi Sad for a designer meetup, where we got to connect with a bunch of amazing designers from our community, and hear how we’ve ultimately changed their lives. One woman came up to me and shared her story – she was married, then quickly became a single mother with a special needs baby and thought that this was going to define the rest of her life. Then a friend introduced her to the platform, which meant she could work flexibly and was able to fully support her son and reclaim her own identity thanks to 99designs. That stuff brings tears to your eyes — I’m pretty lucky to have this job.

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Meet the modern-day Carrie Bradshaw — NYC ‘IT’ girl, Caroline Vazzana is not your average fashion guru. With a successfully published book, over 200 thousand Instagram followers, and a website to answer your burning career questions—Vazzana may remind you of a certain someone who also ran the big apple. Beginning her career in the editorial world, this modern-day Carrie Bradshaw made her mark writing for publications such as InStyle and Marie Claire. Her passion for fashion and success later inspired her to write her own book, Making It In Manhattan, adding “author” to her long list of accomplishments. Vazzana’s book is tailored to help aspiring fashionistas make it in the competitive industry. With personal stories and interview advice, Making It In Manhattan is a valuable resource for those looking to land their next gig. I CAUGHT UP WITH THIS SPUNKY STYLE GURU FOR HER TIPS, TRICKS, AND AN INSIDE LOOK INTO HER FABULOUS LIFE...

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VISIT CAROLINE VAZZANA’S SITE, MAKING IT MANHATTAN FOR ALL THINGS FASHION AND CAREER ADVICE. BE SURE TO ALSO FOLLOW HER INSTAGRAM @CVAZZANA FOR A LOOK INTO HER COLORFUL STYLE PALETTE AND A SNEAK PEEK INTO HER

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EXCITING PROJECTS.

How and why did you get into fashion? I’ve wanted to work in fashion since I was about ten years old! I went to college in Pennsylvania and on my summer breaks, I did several internships in NYC! Right out of college I set my sights on working at a fashion magazine and landed a job at Teen Vogue! What do self-expression and style mean to you? My style is the way I express myself! Through color, texture, design! I always say the style is a way to say who you are without having to speak.

What was your initial motivation behind your book, “Making it in Manhattan?” I wanted to create an all-encompassing guide book for beginners trying to get their foot into the fashion industry! How does New York City inspire you? The streets, the people, the views! NYC is filled with so much inspiration. You just have to stop and look for it.

“When I quit my fulltime job to become my own boss I was definitely scared but I knew that I didn’t want to look back five years from now and regret not taking the risk.” How does it feel when you’re compared to an icon like Carrie Bradshaw? Has she always been an inspiration to you? It is one of the best compliments! I’ve admired Carrie Bradshaw’s career and, of course, style for so many years. So when people started calling me the modern-day Carrie I was so flattered and honestly shocked! What do you hope readers will gain from reading your book? I hope my book inspires them to follow their dreams and not to let anything stand in their way. I hope they also learn that you don’t have to have connections in fashion to make it. I knew absolutely no one when I started out so if I can do it you can too! Describe your style in three words: Colorful, eclectic, ever-changing! Biggest advice to anyone scared of leaving their comfort zone? There’s no right time to take a risk. When I quit my full- time job to become my own boss I was definitely scared but I knew that I didn’t want to look back five years from now and regret not taking the risk. Also, things always seem scarier in our heads than they really are!

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How this female founder made her mark in the beauty industry — At just 18-years-old, Mariya Nurislamova sought after the American dream when she left her homeland in Russia and moved to the U.S. Now, Nurislamova is a successful entrepreneur and CEO of a thriving fragrance subscription service called Scentbird. Also known as the “Netflix of Perfumes,” Scentbird offers clients a unique approach when selecting a scent. The steps are simple; browse through a selection of 400 plus fragrances, select the item you’d like to test for a month, then leave the rest to Scentbird. Before you know it, your customized scent will be shipped to your doorstep in sleekchic packaging. Interactive and luxe, this one of a kind service that allows clients to sign up for a subscription and receive a 30-day supply of the perfume of their choice. From brands like Prada and Versace, clients will never be disappointed with the variety Scentbird has to offer. MARIYA NURISLAMOVA GIVES A LOOK INTO HER FLOURISHING CAREER IN THIS Q&A WITH MESS MAGAZINE. LEARN HOW SCENTBIRD WAS BROUGHT TO LIFE AND HOW IT CONTINUES TO MAKE A GROWING IMPACT IN THE BEAUTY SPACE TODAY.

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VISIT SCENTBIRD.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION AND VISIT THEIR INSTAGRAM PAGE, @SCENTBIRD FOR VERY EXCITING

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UPDATES. MY SUBSCRIPTION BOX IS ALREADY ON THE WAY!

When did you fall in love with fragrance? Oh God, way before you’re supposed to. I was probably 3 or 4 years old…I just fell in love with putting scented water on my skin. The scents were too heavy for me so my mom would have a problem with me going to kindergarten and I would sneak it in the bathroom and still apply it. It was really early in the game for me. I know you grew up in Russia and moved to the U.S. Why did you move? I weirdly enough fell in love with the English language really early in life. My aunt actually taught English, so she spoke it to me on occasion and I couldn’t really understand it but it sounded so pretty. So I was like I will totally live in an English speaking country one day. What were you doing and where were you working before diving into Scentbird? So I came to the U.S. to go to college. I dropped out of a Russian college because I didn’t see myself living in Russia. In Russia, I was studying math and computer science but in the U.S.

I transferred to be in business school. I had a couple of jobs but I was really unhappy working for people. I was always feeling like I had my own good ideas, you know? Prior to Scentbird, I had a creative agency and we had our talent in Europe and clients in New York. I was one of the two co-founders and I was in charge of business development and account management. A component of that business was management and planning which was more on the conference side of things and that’s where I met my future investors and built early-stage relationships. Building a start-up in beauty was always this big dream. I knew that was going to be my big dream, I put it on my bucket list and once I was ready and experienced I will just tackle this big dream. I realized I would never get there, like the older I was getting. I might never feel confident enough to feel ready, so I might as well just do it and learn while I’m doing it and that’s how Scentbird was born. What pushed you to do Scentbird? At the time, my future co-founder and I were brainstorming all kinds of ideas of how we could make the world

a better place. We were looking at different industries honestly; we were looking at food, we were looking at advertising. He was an entrepreneur and I was very familiar with IT, that was very much my world. We were biased and looking at technology to solve problems. He started brainstorming and he would come up with a new idea every day and call me asking “Is this it?” Then we went into fashion and I like fashion but I don’t see myself doing it. That’s when I realized that for me, I just want to build something in fragrance because I thought fragrance was broken. He said he didn’t mind fragrance and the rest is history, pretty much. You mentioned that there were different business models for Scentbird, what was the process like until you found the perfect one? We were committed to making it work and we were kind of all in. You cannot be halfway pregnant as an entrepreneur. The market was broken and we knew there was a pinpoint to solve. When you don’t have a pinpoint to solve, it’s a little bit more complicated. So, we knew that the problem exists, it’s just the solution was not the right

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solution. We just tried as many times as it’s going to take and it was actually interesting because I had three co-founders and every time a business model didn’t work, as a CEO I felt a lot of responsibility and that they expect me to have all the answers. But, what I realized in true partnership, your cofounders really catch you when you fall. That was my first lesson that we are in it together and there was no talk about quitting, nobody said or hinted that. That was pretty special.

for themselves, which means we have to have a pretty robust niche and we have boundaries of how luxury perfumes need to be. But as time goes by, we are bringing in more and more expensive brands. We just signed with Clive Christian, which is the most intense perfume brand in the world. I’m pretty happy about that, but we also think well-rounded with how fragrance families need to be represented, how seasons need to be represented, how trends need to be represented.

How do you select the fragrances for Scentbird?

How do you think your consumers use Scentbird?

Obviously right now, we are in a position where we can choose and curate lists. We’re not always this lucky, but right now a lot of brands come to us. Plus it’s very important to have a very well-rounded portfolio. By well-rounded, I mean a good enough percentage of the name brand fragrances that people already know as well as, because we are a discovery platform, we have different types of consumers. Some consumers are a little more sophisticated and have tried more and other consumers are just starting out. A good portfolio is so that everyone can find something

Most people actually use this as a discovery platform. We have limitations on how often you can order the same thing. You cannot order the same perfume more than twice a year. Before we introduced that feature, we were looking at how people were using the platform and only three percent of our users were using the same perfume frequently than twice a year. So by default, everybody was more in the discovery phase. Whether they were looking for that one signature one or they were looking for a wardrobe. A lot of our consumers think about our fragrances more like

How important is guiding Scentbird’s subscribers to you? Guidance is very important to us. As long as we don’t impose on people, we never want to cross that line. So what we do is you can take a quiz but our most popular feature is also powered by data and that’s more of a guidance feature. We call it the smart search and its actually a visual filtering system. It allows people to find the fragrance that fits their criteria at the time. They can look for something that’s office-appropriate, for the summer, etc. We then show them which fragrances fit their criteria. Where we take data for this is most fascinating. The data comes from our community, their votes. Every time someone receives a fragrance from Scentbird, we ask them to not just review the fragrance, but they rate it by “What season does it belong to,” “What personality does this fragrance have?” We have millions of data polls with actual consumer votes on the platform. It really powers that filtering system well because one of the reasons we started this company as we wanted to democratize the category. Consumers have their own opinion and that’s what we really care about capturing and re-translating back into the community.

Are you planning to expand outside the U.S.? Never say never. The U.S. is a huge market for us and there is still untapped potential in the U.S. Within a certain time frame, yes. It’s very global, as far as the appeal.

“That was my first lesson that we are in it together and there was no talk about quitting, nobody said or hinted that. That was pretty special.”

an accessory and a match to their mood or season and bottle their memories with a particular scent. It’s like a natural fit for their lifestyles.

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Getting Acquainted with Digital Creator Kate Tik — Here at Mess Magazine we like to introduce our readers to the inspiring and innovative individuals putting their own stamp on the fashion and lifestyle sectors - enter, Kate Tikhomirova!

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The stylish digital creator and travel buff created her self-named blog in hopes of exuding her passion for fashion, while encouraging others to embrace theirs. Since moving to the other side of the pond (London) Kate’s found much success in curating digital content and serving as a go to influencer for major brands. I PICKED KATE’S BRAIN ON ALL THINGS STYLE, TRAVEL, AND LIFESTYLE RELATED AND GOT SOME PRETTY RICH FEEDBACK!

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How would you describe your style?

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I would describe my style as vibrant. My clothes are like a living entity - it lives and breathes the ever-present inspiration that surrounds me, whether that be designers, music, or culture. I also enjoy mixing different looks depending on my mood and where I am traveling through. A good casual off-duty look is a staple of mine, but there is nothing like the thrilling challenge of balancing contradicting prints and patterns. Of course an elegant evening look makes me feel red carpet worthy, so I would say along with vibrant, my style is versatile.

Being well traveled, what are some commonalities and major differences you’ve noticed around the world? Travel is one of my biggest passions; it is not only a privilege to visit such gorgeous locations but to also have the opportunity to expand my self-awareness on a global scale is quite profound. Having traveled extensively I have become a savvy explorer. I think generally speaking most places will have the famous tourist trap locations, but I tend to try and avoid those and instead experience the place like a local. I often ask my Instagram community for recommendations and have discovered some gems that way.

Your blog encompasses the best of fashion, travel, and interior design. Any other categories you hope to tackle?

“A good casual off-duty look is a staple of mine, but there is nothing like the thrilling challenge of balancing contradicting prints and patterns...”

I am a big foodie so it’s something I cover a lot throughout my Instagram stories, but would love to bring a bit more focus on in my blog. And yes, brunch is great my friends, but I hope to showcase the global meals my taste buds get to experience in this life on the go. You learn so much about a person from their food and I hope to make some introductions.

What has been the most difficult and rewarding parts about being a digital creator? I think the most difficult part has been trying to not fall into the mindset of comparing myself to others and keeping true to my own creative vision. There is so much emphasis on algorithms and sometimes trends reign high in visibility on Instagram so it can be easy to get swept up in the mix and try to alter your look and content to suit that idealism. Of course, we all get inspired by each other and that’s the beauty of social platforms this sense of interconnectivity, but it’s important to stay authentic. The most rewarding part is creation imagery. I am truly proud of bringing my vision

boards to life with such talented photographers and hearing the positive feedback from my followers is immensely touching. Do you think the market for digital creators will become over saturated? I think sadly it already is, which is not necessary a bad thing in the terms of the opportunity social media platforms provide for anyone to have a voice and find their community. Honestly, it can be frustrating when there seems to be more of a focus on sponsored content or ego rather than a share of talent or goodwill. At the end of the day though your audience will find you.

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BE SURE TO KEEP WITH KATE’S STYLE, TRAVEL, AND LIFESTYLE THROUGH HER BLOG WWW.KATETIK.COM

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Who are some other digital creators you admire? @tezza @natalieoffduty @dylanasuarez @katie.one @angelafink @styleheroine @meowiie to name a few Your best style advice? Collect quality classic pieces that will last you a lifetime. One huge pro is sustainability and the second is it will enrich your look as well as your conversations. Also, always have that one wow factor item per look. Whether it be some extravagant earrings, a pair of jazzy heels or a cool bag. Rather than constantly aspiring towards the head turning outfit, it’s more like a Georges Seurat painting, they will lean in on the details.

You’ve worked with some pretty well-established brands, ever consider creating your own line, or collab project? I actually recently collaborated on a conscious capsule collection with @ruleystyle. It consisted of 5 pieces all made to order in London from designer dead stock fabrics and it was a fantastic taste at doing my own line one day Your go to designer when you want to feel extra glam? Ronny Kobo for her sexy dresses Describe your interior design aesthetic. A modern take on Art Deco. I love a minimal neutral palette but accentuate it with richer tones like dark wood, metals and velvet touches to add some depth.

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Encouraging Women World Wide to Use Their Voice; Interview with Louder Founder Yamilette Cano — Continuing our interviews from this pasts Web Summit, our EIC, Domi was able to sit down with Yamilette Cano, founder of Louder - a colorful and impactful communications agency based in Hong Kong. The awe inspiring female founder doubles as a 20 year professional Ballerina, who strives to create a business structure that encompasses strong, meaningful connections, shifting the traditional business narative, all the while building confidence and solid skill sets in public speaking for her clientele and empowering fellow woman CEO’s.

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READ SOME OF THEIR INSIGHTFUL CONVO...

What are your plans for Louder for the next few months? Creating more content, that’s very important for me. Most of the things I do are one-on-one and tailored to that person’s personality and skills they have, the roots are important and the bases are important but I need to create content depending on the people.

I do, because I don’t think its for everyone yet, its a quite niche market. Its very needed but a lot of people still don’t see that its needed, like “what are you telling me, I can’t communicate? I speak everyday!” I get that a lot, especially with people who have a lot of experience/CEO’s, so that’s a tough market but I think that’s my target market. I have a mirror to show them, see what other people are seeing, listen to what other people are listening to and that’s when the change happens. So that’s my target - and start-ups, they’re in such a big need because they always have to pitch, but unfortunately there’s

“It sounds corny, it sounds like a cliche, but the more people tell you, you can’t, the more you should do it!”

My goal in the end would be to be global. To be able to cater to clients in Europe.. Latin America (etc.). For that I need to find the right teammates, because the service is very based on personality and the character, you need to relate to your trainer, in the end its like life coaching.

Do you have targeted organizations for your business?

no capital yet- so I would like to work with them on more of a pro bono or social responsibility bases, because I’m very close to giving back, and in my career I’ve been very fortunate for people to help me. Which obstacles did you encounter while setting up the company as a founder? Being in Hong Kong there wasn’t many obstacles. Setting up the company took me a week. For the first two years the government understands you might not be profitable, so they don’t make you file for taxing so admin wise its not a nightmare as I’ve heard in other countries. So that is very helpful for a founder in general.

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Your mission is to create a connection - explain. I never wanted to go out and hardcore sale, I want to create a connection, a relationship, and if then the business happens, it’s going to be a stronger relationship, stronger business.

BE SURE TO KEEP UP WITH YAMILETTE AND LOUDER AGENCY VIA THEIR SITE WWW.LOUDERGLOBAL.COM

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I think in Asia there’s a lot of support now for woman, a lot of groups have events - we connect with other woman that are having the same struggles. We do communicate, there’s not such a thing of “Hey, I have my information I’m going to keep it for myself”. We understand that it’s important to create a community.

Three Tips for people that speak that need to develop skills? First of all, find an intention. Write it down by hand stamping it with your own hand writing is personal. Setting up an intention every single time you’re going to have to speak to someone, because the intention is not the same if I’m talking now to you then if I’m talking to 100 people. 2nd and most important: Practice, practice, practice - and practice again! Every time there is something we can make better. And do it in front of a mirror- then you can see and hear what other people are seeing. A lot of people don’t like seeing themselves in the mirror, its uncomfortable, but once you get past that your confidence starts to build.

And the 3rd: Have fun! If you have the passion, the good idea but you don’t show fun with it, how do you expect people to follow? Have fun, its not brain surgery! Favorite Speakers? I like very much, Louvier shes amazing! There’s a lot of leading ladies. What do you think makes a good speaker? The ones that want to connect with the audience, and don’t think its about them. Those are better speakers than the ones that want to just inform and get across the message no matter what. Speakers that can be flexible and adapt, reading the audience - those are the best. Biggest difference in cold pitching and speaking on something like the Web Summit stage? I think even when pitching you should be so connected to your intention and emotions that it resonates. Giving an idea with a solution (for both). Any advise to current and future female founders? Don’t be afraid! What’s the worst that can go wrong? Maybe I don’t get any customers, I run up my savings, and I have to go find a job - its a risk but it’s a calculated risk. We need to be objective but we also need to be subjective - jump and test the waters! As woman we

often refrain from stuff... we should relax a little because we have the support of our community. Being Latin American, a brown woman it’d be “your not going to make it somewhere else in the world, you don’t have a background in business” but no, I studied international relations and I think its one of the best studies because it opened my eyes to the world. I had to “bang my head on the wall a couple of times” but that didn’t stop me. It sounds corny, it sounds like a cliche, but the more people tell you, you can’t, the more you should do it! And if it doesn’t happen, there’s so many other things you can do! I do, because I don’t think its for everyone yet, its a quite niche

market. Its very needed but a lot of people still don’t see that its needed, like “what are you telling me, I can’t communicate? I speak everyday!” I get that a lot, especially with people who have a lot of experience/CEO’s, so that’s a tough market but I think that’s my target market. I have a mirror to show them, see what other people are seeing, listen to what other people are listening to and that’s when the change happens. So that’s my target - and startups, they’re in such a big need because they always have to pitch, but unfortunately there’s no capital yet- so I would like to work with them on more of a pro bono or social responsibility bases, because i’m very close to giving back, and in my career I’ve been very fortunate for people to help me.

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Style with A Conscious: Interview with Blogger Elisa Bellino —

MESS

Milan based fashion blogger, Elisa Bellino lends her effortless style and in-depth opinions by way of her blog, THELADYCRACY.IT. Major brands and other style goers take heed to her critical thoughts that span beyond the shallow waters of fashion, and I too picked her brain on everything styleconscious related.

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READ ON...

In two words, Elisa’s style is? The style of Elisa is currently sober and sophisticated, in line with the principle of ethics and morals of “buy less, but good”, I try to create various “uniforms” with few pieces, but of quality. How’s the balancing act of mom life and style media maven? This work is very pressing, but fortunately I can often work from home and this factor has allowed me to be able to establish a very special symbiotic relationship with my daughter. That said, my daughter never appears on my social media, because they are a work tool and should be used as such. I consider them very dangerous. Do you see yourself creating your own fashion or beauty line, if so who or what would be your muse? If I ever had the opportunity to create a fashion line I would be inspired by the work of Phoebe Philo, the Olsen sisters or the sculptural experiments of Dion Lee without forgetting to graft into the lines austerity some sensual and kind Italian typically. If you could create a collaboration collection with any designer who would it be? At the moment if I had to choose a designer to work with I would opt for Daniel Lee, as the only true heir to the Old Céline aesthetic (in my opinion).

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BE SURE TO SUBSCRIBE TO ELISA’S BLOG THELADYCRACY.IT AND KEEP UP WITH HER ON INSTAGRAM

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@ELSIABELLINOOFF

In your opinion, is the “allinclusive”, “ECO friendly” wave in fashion all in the name of trends, or is the fashion industry finally going beyond aesthetics?

Essential fall/winter piece?

Bloggers and Influncers like yourself have had a major impact on the fashion industry in the last few years, how do you see this evolving?

What do you hope to accomplish with THELADYCRACY.IT?

I have always invested a lot of time in journalistic-critical writing about the fashion business, so I’d like to be able to base my work less on appearance and more on substance. I don’t love Instagram because I find it strongly limits the potential and cognitive faculties of the population, yet the business still goes by, but fortunately everything changes very quickly.

“Humanity is slowly realizing that it has no right to unscrupulous consumption of land and resources, in a sense it is a social, cultural and spiritual evolution...”

Fashion is not going beyond aesthetics, but beyond the nihilism of contemporary fashion. I am referring to the fast fashion that has taken hold over the last decade and which has infected the entire system. This is one of the many degeneration’s caused by the capitalist, mercatistic society, in which consumption becomes a basic necessity for existence. Humanity is slowly realizing that it has no right to unscrupulous consumption of land and resources, in a sense it is a social, cultural and spiritual

evolution, an awareness that the “businessmen” behind the large conglomerates will have to pay more and more attention.

Essential for winter is a pair of black vegan leather trousers.

I would like Theladycracy to have a team of passionate and prepared women, I would also like to develop a new paper format based on slow culture... I have many ideas!

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Interview with Bell + Ivy Co-Founder and Global Entrepreneur Cynthia Johnson — This month at Web Summit in Lisbon, we had the opportunity to interview incredibly talented entrepreneurial mindset women. Cynthia Johnson runs Bell + Ivy, a digital marketing and personal branding agency, which currently works with some of the most important and well-known companies in the world. CYNTHIA JOHNSON IS A GLOBAL ENTREPRENEUR, MARKETING PROFESSIONAL, AUTHOR AND KEYNOTE SPEAKER. HER FIRST BOOK ‘PLATFORM‘ WAS PUBLISHED LAST FEBRUARY WITH PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE AND TEN SPEED PRESS.

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Where does the name come from? The idea was to combine science and magic, so Bell + Ivy comes from Alexander Graham Bell, the founder of the telephone and Ivy Lee, considered one of the most original fathers of modern public relations. How did you start Bell + Ivy?

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Actually, my co-partner and I were previously partners at one agency and then, we were working together at a health-care company, having executive roles in a typical corpo environment. It was then, from the inside, when we realized that there are a lot of things that you cannot fix from the inside. And that’s the way people looked at marketing mix and we felt as we were being excluded from it. So

we left and we had this big idea. We thought: “Let’s fix the structure and the way people look at humans and empower them a little bit more”. Because there is just a missing piece in the way the industry was evolving -and still evolving- and there is content that needs to be created. Do you feel like you are solving problems by being the Co-Founder of a marketing agency? Sometimes, I do. Sometimes, I don’t. Now seriously, I do. Because corporative structures are bringing up marketing agencies to solve their problems, but the real problem is that they are not trying to look inside first. And they are having a bad time about being objective on their own environment and so, for us to be able to go and look at

which is that we are introducing technologies and not teaching people how to use them properly. So, what do you think about the future of agencies? Do you believe that marketing agencies are meant to play a big role in content creation, for example? I strongly believe that agencies are going to evolve into education. Agencies are going to become training and quality-control tools, more than actual content developers. If you really want to be needed as an agency, you should focus in what the goals are right now, not what they were.

what you already have before adding to it. And not only is it empowering for people who are doing a great job, who maybe feel overwhelmed, but also it is hard for the organization to say “Oh, look! We already have these things, we just did not know we had them. We don’t need to be spending all this money with Google”. What is your opinion about automation? The problem is not automation or the tools, the problem is there is a lot of people that don’t understand automation in the right way. So, if you try to drive a car from the passenger seat, you are not going to go very far. And that’s kind of where we’re

at with automation, especially looking at the hiring. I don’t really know anybody that is looking into their actual organizations, the people they should be hiring up. Second thing, most jobs aren’t even posted so they’re going after people with already existing jobs. They are head-hunters. And in that situation, faced with the same people getting approached over and over again. It’s usually the people who know it, because they’ve done the work of making sure their profiles are findable and then they are jumping around. That’s not great for a company, since it’s expensive to find people, to train people. So, I think that automation, as far as hiring goes, has a main problem

So, if you had to advise a random person of the street, what would you do to help that person in name of the agency? Essentially, we are an integrated marketing communications agency, so we take a brand and its aspirations, and we make sure that every single plan is aligned according to them. We help brands or companies to achieve their goals and to figure it out their problems. When it comes to providing services, we try to fill the gaps where doesn’t make sense for them to do so.

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STREET STYLE PHOTOGRAPHY — JEREMY MOLLER

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PHOTOGRAPHY — NICK LEUZE

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@CARODAUR

@ERIKA_BOLDRIN

@ERIKA_BOLDRIN

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@TAMUMCPHERSON

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