Issuu 5 of Mess Magazine by Dominika Perek

ISSUE NO. 5 NOVEMBER ‘14

TOP 10A/W ‘14 FASHION CAMPAIGNS

powerful women powerful fashion

our favorite

BLOGGERS

Johny Dar behind House of Dar

AUTUMN TRENDS

red lips double denim winter knits

On Edge On the Runway . . .

PUNK SILOUHETTES

EDITOR’S LETTER Dear Reader, I’d like to thank you personally for choosing Mess Magazine again amongst many other high-fashion positions. We really appreciate your Mess’Appeal! Within every next issue our definition of Creative Mess broadens and changes. Mess is not only Creative Energy that is the ultimate source of all artistic ideas. Mess is everywhere, in every surreal and real thing, between visible and invisible, ugly and beautiful, bold and uptight, perfect and messy, Art and Fashion. Issue Five shows perfectly the Rebelious Spirit. Unstoppable Genius. Unapologetic. Unforgiven. Powerful. Fearless. Creative. Rebel. Get a Mess’Appeal!

THE TEAM EDITOR-IN-CHIEF& CREATIVE DIRECTOR Dominika Perek FASHION EDITOR Daniel Matejczyk FASHION WRITING Kasia Piersa Lucy Creber STYLE EDITOR Charlie Pratt TREND REPORTERS Guilia Bardelli Emmanuella Ngimbi GRAPHIC DESIGNER Lilian von Keller

CONTACT

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF&CREATIVE DIRECTOR Dominika Perek info@messmag.com SUBMISSIONS&ADVERTISING media@messmag.com INTERVIEWS danielmatejczyk@messmag.com

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MESS ONLINE FACEBOOK.com/MESSMAG INSTAGRAM.com/MESSMAGAZINE TWITTER.com/MESSMAG MESSMAG.TUMBLR.com ISSUE NO. 4 AUGUST ‘14

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TRENDS: SPRING ‘15

COVER: GRUNGE GARAGE

FASHION BLOGGERS

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TREND: KNITWEAR

CONTENTS MESS

GRUNGE GARAGE 6 GEOMETRICAL ROMANCE 56 SKY FLY 66 GERA SKANDAL 84 COFFEE & CIGARETTES 120 FASHION

Punk/Rock Silhouettes Trend Alert: Knitwear Trends Spring â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;15

48 51 52

Featured: John Galliano

Top 5 Halloween Costumes 10 Favorite Fashion Bloggers Interview with: HUSH Warsaw Best Campaigns 2014 TUK x MESSMAG winners The most outrageous ads Interview with: Johny Dar Top 10 Photographers

92 94 97 100 106 108 110 112

BEAUTY

Get your Punk Look How To: Dark Lips for Fall Our Fav Picks Dark Lipstick

ART

Feature: David Fincher

115 116 117

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SKY FLY

JOHNY DAR m e s s m ag . c o m

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Grunge garage Photography PAULINA JARZEMBSKA Styling

Produced

DANIEL MATEJCZYK DOMINIKA PEREK

Modeling DOMINIKA ROBAK DVISION AGENCY Clothes

Dress

PTASIA 6

PAULINA OSTROWSKA

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dress: Paulina Ostrowska 16

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dress: Paulina Ostrowska

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dress: Paulina Ostrowska

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dress: Paulina Ostrowska

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dress: Paulina Ostrowska m e s s m ag . c o m

dress: Paulina Ostrowska 26

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FASHION

k c o R / Punk s e t t e u o h l i S

Autumn - Winter 2014 Not all of us may be particularly fond of the classic, heavy punk/rock/grunge fashion pieces. Good news! All of them have been repeatedly reinterpreted on the catwalks oby many, many designers. We did a little research and found the most edgy silhouettes from fashion shows for Autumn/Winter 2014. Go ahead and get inspired by the most current pieces of this season!

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FASHION

DAVID KOMA Casual chick, but with the right spicy attitude. The dress has a rather simple cut, but th`e gaps around the waist give it the rockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;roll attitude.

CUSTO BARCELONA Not too extravagant, but also not the nice-kind-of-girl project. This look is also quite multi-occasional: coffee with a friend, night time drinks or (with the right accessories) even for a business meeting (be careful: it also depends on the character of your job).

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FASHION

THEYSKENS THEORY A great option for those who have to spend their time in the office. That doesn’t allow too much liberty in choosing the outfits, but if you take a simple piece (like this Theyskens Theory jacket) made with leather – you’re getting this spiced up look, appropriate even for a strict dress code.

BLUMARINE Ever thought what would a geisha look like if she were influenced by Led Zeppelin music? Blumarine answers that question with these silhouette designs!

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FASHION

EMILIO PUCCI How chic is this! Such a strong look that Kate Moss would definitely wear – and we all know she’s not too fond of politeness regarding her personal style. Short fur with long boots is a perfect combination of ‘luxurious‘ and ‘dirty‘.

MOSCHINO These are for the most rebellious of all! Which is not a surprise since Moschino creative director is the designer with just the right punk attitude – Jeremy Scott. This is very risky, but you have to admit – punky as hell!

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FASHION

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER A little option for the red carpet. Ann Demeulemeester is known for her rather darker approach to fashion – this is the grunge femme fatale.

COMME DES GARCONS + JUNYA WATANABE

BLUMARINE

The last (but not least) kind Ever thought what would of punk interpretation – thea geisha look like if she avant-garde one. Big were and influenced Zeppelin minimalisticbyorLed feminine and music? Blumarine decorative – thoseanswers are the that with these siltwo question of our favorites in this houette designs! category. Side note: only for the really courageous women! Are you one of them?

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FASHION

TREND ALERT

Knitwear

We've seen it on the runways and we've seen it in all high street stores. Knitwear is back and not just any old knitwear. This time it's bigger, chunkier and better! Autumn has come quick and we're already wrapping ourselves in the warmest jumpers we can find in the back of our closets. However, this year, it's all about oversized knitwear. Fashion enthusiasts went crazy when they saw photos of The Row’s A/W ‘14 Ready-to-Wear runway show. It was the talk of the town. Not only did the oversized knits consist of loose turtlenecks but also of strangely oversized knitted skirts that fell loosely to the mid-calf. I like to think of it as being a bit like you’re drowning in a sea of cashmere. Evidently there are two fashion icons which absolutely loved this

collection. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. Who else?! Backstage they confessed that after having laid their hands on the clothes they were instantly obsessed! Experimenting with different shapes and silhouettes is great especially during the colder months when layering is essential! If oversized skirts are not in your best interest then you can definitely experiment with a loose turtleneck with sleeves too long that they make your hands disappear. High street shops have also embraced the trend and the items have proved to be successful after having renowned fashion bloggers rave about the trend too.

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FASHION

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Take the risk and go double denim for SPRING â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;15!

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;15.

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GEOMETRICAL ROMANCE P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y : M I C H A A Z A R ÓW A t t o r e A RTE MAKEUP BY: AGATA PA S T E R Z HAIR BY: U R S Z U L A PA Ł YS L a P r o v o c at i o n MODELING BY: A N I TA K . ADRIAN I. Pink Melon Models KSENIA K.

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sky fly Photography by: Dominika Jarczyńska Modeling by: Joanna Maćkowska VOX MODELS MANAGEMENT Designer: Agata Warmuz Makeup by: Anna Ambrozik Styling by: Agata Warmuz

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FASHION

The punk is all about the bad boys and who else fit the bad boy archetype in fashion better than John Galliano? Once on the top of the top, then condemned for a while, now rising from the dust to strike with his talent again. Here are the three Galliano chapters, following the classic punk.

1. The undaunted genius.

Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano came to this world in 1960 on the picturesque lands of Gibraltar. At the age of 6 him and his family emigrated to London, where the magic happens. As an adolescent, he joined the Central Saint Martins School of Art and in 1984 he presented his graduation collection Les Incroyables, inspired by the French revolution. The items designed by Galliano amazed the British fashion society – collection was sold to Joan Bursteinz of Browns. But – as impossible as it sounds – London wasn’t quite ready for Galliano’s extravagant idea of fashion and he was underestimated there. 8 years after his graduation he moved to Paris where his eclectic style (combining elements specific for Latin culture with historical motives) was adored by the masses. In 1995 he was named the creative director of Givenchy, and then in 1997 he designed his first Spring/Summer collection as a creative director of Dior. In the meantime, Great Britain realised the mistake they’ve made and made amends by naming Galliano British Designer of the Year... four times! Which is unprecedented. 1990 was the year when he designed costumes for Corrulao Ballet (performed by Ballet Rambert), and in 1991 Kylie Minogue specific asked for Galliano to design outfits for her „Let’s Get to It“ tour. How could it all go wrong?

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Naomi Campbell & Kate Moss Givenchy A/W 1996/1997

FASHION

2. The condemned outlaw.

Galliano A/W 2009

„I love Hitler... People like you would be dead. Your mothers, your forefathers would all be f*cking gassed“. Well, that was an eventful (in a rather unfortunate way) night out. The quote that opens this chapter, are the exact words John Galliano spoke to a woman in one of Paris pubs. And it’s not even a „hear and say“, as somebody recorded it. List of consequences? Long. First thing first, Galliano was removed from the position of Dior creative director (2011). The designer used to cross the line quite often earlier, but the fashion house always stood behind him. Firing him (despite how well Dior was prospering under his management) sent the message to the entire world that the rebellious golden child went one step too far this time. Apart from the professional disaster this situation has caused, the charges were pressed – the court (after quite a long debate) awarded a penalty in the amount of €6,000. Of course the money doesn’t even compare to the social banishment that followed the anti-Semitic statements of Galliano. The situation seemed hopeless, but paraphrasing the good old Beatles, he got by with a little help from his friends...

3. Hu mble come back.

In July 2011 Kate Moss asked Galliano to design her... wedding dress. When an icon (which she unmistakably is) is getting married, all designers want to get their hands on the wedding dress, as it will be photographed, judged and discussed all around the world. Also, Oscar de la Renta invited Galliano to use his own workspace in New York (Anna Wintour actually brokered that offer, which I guess is also really nice of her). And what about now? Well, now John Galliano has been named a creative director of a true giant, one of the most respectable and trendsetting fashion brands right now – Maison Martin Margiela. The prognosis is good and – since the bad boy seems to have calmed down a bit – his awful behaviour was forgiven (or at least we can call it a probation time) and everybody keep their fingers crossed for the debutant collection for MMM.

Kate Moss Wedding Dress

“I am here to make people dream, to seduce them into buying beautiful clothes and to strive to make amazing clothing to the best of my ability. That is my duty“. Another quote from Galliano (from some time ago), showing how engaged he once was in what he was doing. Is John Galliano on a mission again? Let’s hope he is, a one with just the same dose of brilliance and a little less drama. m e s s m ag . c o m

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FASHION

5 P TOhalloween costumes Now that Halloween has just left our doorstep, the question on everyone’s lips is “what was the best Halloween costume?” Even celebrities take advantage of the day to wear whatever crazy outfit they want and call it a costume.

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PEREZ HILTON

If there is one person that does Halloween right it’s the German supermodel Heidi Klum. Heidi is very well known for hosting the most extravagant Halloween parties of the year, her parties see hundreds of well-known celebrities dressing up and having fun. Last year the ageless supermodel arrived to her party at the Marquee Theatre in New York completely unrecognizable sporting more wrinkles than we’re used to seeing. She had completely transformed her look and turned into a very realistic elderly woman. She arrived to the party having translucent skin with age spots, grey hair and varicose veins on her legs the costume was completed with a cane completely fooling everybody. Earlier that year The Project Runway host told Parade magazine that she takes Halloween “very seriously” and she’s not a fan of costume that are just “thrown together” she also stated that she would “rather stay at home than go out in an uninspired costume.” Could this be her scariest look yet?

FASHION

HEIDI KLUM

PINK

MILEY CYRUS

IGGY AZALEA

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Fashion bloggers Masha Sedgwick Black is the new Black. I’ve always wondered why that saying has been a fashion cliché. The reason why black is the consistent go-to color is because it never ever goes out of style. Masha proves this by using black in all of her edgy, casual style. She mixes geeky, cute, chic and sexy all into one. Her blog is incredibly personally and shows how her multicultural upbringing has left her with unique views on situations that open your eyes beyond her impeccable fashion sense. She is also modest and humble.

Sonya Esman Classisinternal Having bumped into Sonya personally at London Fashion Week and seeing first hand her sophisticated quirky fashion sense she definitely has a spot in our top 10 fashion bloggers! This with her Russian and English YouTube videos gives us an extra insight into her personality behind the style. She is incredibly friendly and approachable which made it easier to have a quick chat with her while we were looking at Faustine Steinmetz’s denim collection!

Aleksandra Stasiak Life is Full of Beauty (facebook) & Daydream Juice (blog) Aleksandra has taken a different route to fashion blogging. One that is quite interesting. Initially she had a facebook page filled with beautiful photographs, some she had taken herself and some she found online, the reasoning behind this page was a quote-“ Beauty and ugliness surrounds us. We decide what we see”. This page reached over 19,000 fans and from this success Aleksandra thought about showing her travelling images and looks through a blog. Daydream Juice was born. Her blog is filled with beautiful landscape compositions and sporty chic styles. Her eye for aesthetic goes beyond fashion.

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FASHION Cristina Rovira Medblick Any fashion blogger that takes homage to the Queen of Elegance, Coco Chanel, definitely deserves to be in this top 10 list. Having Chanel as a muse is a big shoe to fill and I think Cristina does it beautifully and with a contemporary edge. Here looks follow traditional clothing but still has that young twist to it.

Wallace Yolica Wallace is an eccentric, confident British blogger that makes bold fashion choices and works it! Her bold choices put her in the top 10. Ruxandra Ioana From Brussels, With Love Any fashion blogger that takes homage to the Queen of Elegance, Coco Chanel, definitely deserves to be in this top 10 list. Having Chanel as a muse is a big shoe to fill and I think Cristina does it beautifully and with a contemporary edge. Here looks follow traditional clothing but still has that young twist to it.

Neha Gandhi Love Playing Dress Up Every girl loves an excuse to get all dolled up and hit the town. Nehaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Love Playing Dress Up blog has that element through out her outfits and looks. Even though not all of her outfit choices are full blown ball gowns they all have that precision quality. I can tell time and effort has gone into picking the different pieces and collaborated together nicely. It is the attention to detail that has landed her in my top 10!

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FASHION Alex Alexâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Closet Alex is one of my favorite bloggers to look at. She has a certain knack for outfits that have both feminine flair and a masculine edge. This laid-back fashion style is brilliance. Its very multi wearable, her sort of outfits are looks that I can see some jet setter women shopping or working during the day and then having a couple of drinks in the evening which then leads to a night out with friends. And Alexâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s looks would suit all fashion areas.

Jessica Luxe Her fun, folky and quirky fashion style is what makes her stand out from the rest. Her white and purple dip dye hair adds that ethereal quality to her look. Jessica has a brilliant social media relationship with her followers. On her blog she has a love for Halloween, the term halloweek comes to mind, and has used the suggestions on social media as themes for her costumes posts! This dedication to creativity is incredibly inspiring.

Jenny Mind the Mustard Jenny was the first blogger post I did for MESS and I was so incredibly nervous. But her oriental sport chic fashion sense made it impossible to NOT write about her. Jenny and her partner both have a clothing brand with pre owned and unique new pieces. Her inspirations come from East End London, minimalism, 90s grunge and Japanese youth culture. I am a massive fan of Eastern fashion sense and how Jenny uses this with silhouette is beautiful.

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FASHION

Two creative minds with business inclination and endless energy sources – this combination was just meant to end up in the fashion industry. Anna Pięta and Magda Korcz decided one day to rebel against mediocrity on the Polish fashion stage, and what better way to supervise that than creating a world-class event? HUSH Warsaw is a fashion trade show that guards the quality of every single aspect of designing fashion. How’s that? Let’s see.

DNA matches the „genetic“ code of an event. If not there’s really not much you can do – HUSH Warsaw’s just not for you to begin with. Pięta and Korcz are openly admitting that the HUSH selection is quite harsh and there is no possibility of talking your way into it if it’s decided otherwise. This seems novel for the Polish fashion industry, but the truth is it really shouldn’t. This is exactly why those two fierce women are often referred to as patrons of Polish fashion and design.

There are several restrictions you have to meet to be able to stage your brand on HUSH Warsaw. Everything has to be perfect – forget applying if your pack shots are took with an iPhone or your press materials don’t contain the most crucial information about your brand. What also matters to those two strict organizers is whether your brand’s

HUSH Warsaw is not only letting designers show off their work, it’s also kind of fostering them. HUSH Selected is a quality label awarded to the brands that are consistently developing, offering their consumers a more and more interesting „fashion menu“ each season. Also, every HUSH edition has its leitmotiv – for the upcoming

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FASHION December’s edition it’s „All You Need Is HUSH“. What does that mean exactly? We found out in an interview with Anna and Magda themselves. Is fashion in your opinion rather a business or an art? Apparently, it’s a fashionable business. For us it is a business, which combines fashion and art as two separate fields. At least it’s our sincere wish for the future. And apart from that, it is a business just like any, finding a place for you in it – that’s an art. Is the process of selecting brands for HUSH Warsaw analogical to the one of choosing works of art for, let’s say, a gallery? Yes and no... Creating an exhibition comes with it’s own laws, but it is true that our selection made HUSH Warsaw a special case of an exhibition. There has to be a key to creating it. Otherwise it’s simply too much chaos, and it’s harmful even if the designs are great. It’s also similar regarding another angle, and we mean observing brands that develop themselves and then, a bit like a guardian, inviting them to participate in another projects. Each HUSH edition has it’s theme – last time it was „freedom“, in December it’s going to be „All You Need Is HUSH“. What did you mean by that last one? Where do you get inspirations for the themes? Themes are taken directly from our heads... and to be more serious – they have to match the places, the circumstances, and the ideas that swirl through the air. Sometimes we’re chasing our own thoughts, with constant logorrhea, we spill some slogans out of our mouths, and then suddenly something comes up that just binds it all together perfectly. That last sentence is a quote from our very loyal client, which we quote with great pleasure! Polish designers are aware that to participate in HUSH, they have to carefully double check their application... You are like the patrons of fashion – why did you decide to take that tough task upon your shoulders? Specifically because we like tough tasks, challenges, making big projects happen, blending and loudly saying “hush...”. We saw that there’s a niche for new actions, so we adapted it to ourselves – that way we can profit from our professional experience, education, shared sensitivity and visions for the future.

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FASHION HUSH is a rather fresh initiative. What have you been doing before it existed? Anna: I’ve never worked a classic full-time job. At the beginning, as an assistant in an art school of Poznań, I co-managed a fabric workshop. Then I opened my own business (which was a website with ethical design and vintage items). And then, at last, I started designing accessories and hats. To sell my projects I took part in many different pop-up actions, but none of them lived up to my expectations. I started organizing an event called Ściegi (eng. stitches), which later transformed into HUSH Warsaw, the name and the activity that I’m the most proud of. Magda: And I studied history of art, also in Poznań (which is actually where we met). I used to work at a PR agency and then for Huncwot studios that was specializing in designing websites. Are you currently taking part in any other project than HUSH Warsaw? HUSH is filling the entire 24 hours of our days (or even more...). It’s a hard, time- and energy-consuming job; it all comes down to figuring out the details. And HUSH isn’t just a trade twice a year – it’s a magazine, a map, trips to foreign fashion trades, a contest for designers, and also the upcoming fashion show (connected with the prize HUSH Selected that is awarded to the Best Designer of the

Year #Begindesire). But we’re certainly not stopping ourselves – we’re planning to expand the actions regarding our HUSH Warsaw brand. How exactly did the two of you meet? Right after graduating from universities we were bounded by the gallery Starter in Poznań, and also, as it turned out, by the same interests and the same disagreement with the established order, in other words: the desire of changes. It’s holding us together up to this day and we feel good about it. I don’t think you have a lot of time to spare, but if sometimes you do, what are you using it for? Anna: Well, this is always a hard question right before HUSH... I run, I’m going to the movies, and I definitely try to sleep more. And lately I’ve been taking care of relations I have with people close to me, I focus on them and what they have to say to me, I focus on how they change. Actually this is it – whenever I do get some time off, I mostly spend it on observing the world. Those are some interesting times we live in and they’re worth remembering, living them here and now. Magda: I use my spare time to get involved with my interest, and the center of them is architecture. I’m promising myself I’ll find time to finish the postgraduate preservation of architectural monuments. That’s my hook!

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FASHION

BEST CAMPAIGNS 2014

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DOLCE & GABBANA Dolce and Gabbana are renowned for having some of the best campaigns in the fashion industry. With Sicilian vibes, this year it was time a darker twist inspired by fairy tales with a hint of the medieval times. This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fall 2014 campaign was photographed by Domenico Dolce himself and included fashion stars such as Claudia Schiffer and Bianca Balti.

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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Quite possibly one of the spookier campaigns featuring Edie Campbell who has worked with the fashion house before. It being her second campaign she seemed perfect for it with her grunge-laid back look. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very dark and romantic sticking to very monochromatic themes with little color.

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EQUIPMENT Sometimes in fashion to stand out you need to take control. That’s exactly what has been done in the F/W ’14 campaign for equipment. Daria Werbowy was chosen to be the face of, the stylist and the photographer for their Autumn/Winter 2014 campaign, which was shot in her home in Ireland. The styles range from a 60’s to 70’s hard-core rocker.

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PRADA Prada F/W â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 the backdrop is concrete... Literally. The clothes not so much. In Pradaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest campaign a pop of colour never hurt anybody. The bold prints in contrast with the structured buildings in the background work that it really brings out the art deco inspired prints.

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LONGCHAMP Our favourite ‘IT’ girl Alexa Chung, is back with a whole new campaign with Longchamp. There’s no denying that Alexa already has the Parisian look so casting her for the F/W ’14 campaign was a no brainer! She returned for the 20th anniversary of Longchamp’s signature Le Pliage bag and this time co-starring a Jack Russell puppy!

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x competition winners

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MICKYLENE DELGADO This lucky blogger winner Mickylene of a thousand chapters was selected because of her laid back yet edgy california style! She has described herself as a grunge spice girl and this combination helped her stand out when picking winners for the T.U.K winners! A laid back attire needs some seriously statement shoes and she selected the biggest! Nothing says notice my feet than anarchic tall buckles boots!

SARA LILJESTROM Sara has a sleek alternative pinky edge that goes perfectly with the T.U.K footwear. Her fashion quality has that gritty edge that T.U.K speaks of and it was evident that she would be selected to win some free footwear. Her hair colour has a great impact on her look!

ANNA OLAK Anna is a polish native that understands and embodies the laid back grudge affair of T.U.K style. She picked the houndstooth round toe creepers that screams british punk! Her style is both effortless and glamourous. Like she just stumbled out of bed and created and created looks that just work. She has that refined polish quality to her style that has made her one of the T.U.K selected few.

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the most Outrageous

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FASHION

Interview with...

JOHNY DAR

ho hides behind DAR the BOOK the brand? Well that’s a mystery that we are working on resolving but we have some suspicions and there are rumors that it might be Johny Dar. Where do all of the design inspirations come from? That’s the bigger mystery that we are working on resolving as well. I’m definitely inspired by DAR the BOOK, and inspired by my own vision in that sense. I go on looking for various mediums, techniques and technologies to express it through. I’m inspired by the void, by the unknown. It’s hard to find inspiration outside these days just due to the fact that we are living in a time when the common thing is to recycle an idea – so most of what you see around is just recycled ideas, and it’s hard to be inspired by an original creation when you are looking in the cemetery of the creative process.

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If you could describe the brand and its style in 3 words, it would be… Risk it to live it. Risk it one word, second word to, and third word live it. Why, in your opinion, has DAR the BOOK become such a trendy topic lately, Berlin Fashion Week helped a lot to spread the word about the brand? Indeed, fashion week was definitely a great catalyst. I believe it’s because there is something for everyone in it, and it’s not something that you can consume quickly. DAR the BOOK is done in a way where it appeals to young and old, engineer, doctor, construction worker, whoever. It’s really a universal topic that is addressed within a language that I developed by finding the common threads that link all the various professions and walks of life. We all come from the female body and there is a common curiosity to further our understanding of it without getting lost in the aesthetic beauty or aesthetic ugliness or the preconceived ideas that we have of it. So I believe it’s a universal

before, which makes it a little difficult to get in touch with me. Rituals? I like to put my legs behind my head and let it flow. My ritual for design is I stare at a candle and then I stare at the page. And then I stare at the candle again and then I stare at the page until an idea comes about. How will your next collection look like? I’m working with a few inspirations at the moment, a few ideas about how to build the collection. There are a few concepts I am building and pretty satisfied with so far, but I can’t guarantee that is what is going to show up on the runway since I love to change it up last minute. I just don’t limit the creative process until the piece is completed. For me it’s like every piece is alive - I see every creation like a piece of clay that I am moulding. So in this moment it can look round and feminine, and then in the next moment I might just decide to rough up the edges and make it all masculine. I like to surprise myself with what ends up being on the runway, and the only way to do so is by not limiting the creative process or finalising my decision now. Therefore it’s a work in progress, and it will be done when it’s on the runway.

topic with global appeal, and it doesn’t alienate anyone or dismiss any expression. If DAR the BOOK was be a thing, it would be… My bible. Who influenced you the most to be an artist and designer? My need to express and describe what is happening inside of me – all the fantasies and dreams, visions and romance… and when I look for an inspiration outside myself – from an art perspective it would be Di Vinci, and from a design perspective it would be Alexander McQueen. Can you describe your everyday routine? Do you have any rituals to design? My everyday routine is to make sure I break the routine. I believe routine and repetition just kill, they get you old and make things boring. Therefore my routine is to make sure that I don’t repeat the same routine from the day

Who is the most inspirational person you've worked with or want to work with? Who inspires me? See it’s a really tough question because I look for an original expression to inspire me and most out there are not so original. If Jennifer Lawrence does another super heroine character, I would love to design her outfit. I love her bluntness. I would like to do something with Jessie J as well, I believe she’s quite talented and I enjoy her personality. Can you give some advice to young artists or designers that want to start designing? It’s not money that makes the world go round it’s the idea. So don’t be taken by the idea that money runs the world because at the end of the day, money is an idea itself. So be empowered by your creative idea before you fall for the economic idea. Focus on the originality of your idea - don’t focus on the money that you can make out of your idea or the commercial value of it. johnydar.com

darthebook.com

Twitter - twitter.com/DARtheBOOK1 Facebook - facebook.com/DARtheBOOK

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FASHION

TOP 10 Photographers 1

- our favs

Katarzyna Swierc

Makeup: Anna Czilinsky Hair: Lani Iskowik Assistant Photography: Michael S.

Styling: Kasia Kryszk Makeup & Hair: Ewelina Walas Model: Iza Pucinska, ECManagement

Sarah has a sense of theatricality with her photography. The shimmering background compliments the metallic clothing and accessories well. The modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s flaming auburn hair adds beautifully with the composition. This is a striking image.

This photographer has such a rustic glamour style that I love. It must be the tone of light or excellent editing that gives it this authentic feel. That combined with the sporty casual styling works together. It has a nice quality.

2 Sarah Rebekka

Stylist: Aubrey Kia Make Up & Hair: Diane Catorc Model: Jillian Lieber

Antonio De Lucci The idea behind this editorial is stunning. The galaxy and space background accentuate Jillianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stunning features and designer gear. Stylist Aubrey Kia complimented the scene perfectly. All of these factors come together in this breath taking and out of this world photo shoot.

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FASHION

4 Jake Hicks Model: Sophie Roach Lingerie: Agent Provocateur Harness: Alexandra Anissa Collar: Patrick Ian Hartley The Midnight Venus Jake Hick’s British eye takes sexy to another level. I always have an admiration for photographers that walk the fine line between what is sexy to what is sleazy. Jake definitely makes sexy high fashion, edgy and sleek. I hope to see more of his work in the future.

6 Bartlomiej Nowak

5 Marta Szczepaniak Model: Magdalena Cibis Makeup: Aleksandra Latos Hair: Tomasz Toman Stylist: Marta Szczepaniak Production: Jakub Laptas Assistant: Mateusz Orszulski & Maciej Gapinski Lost Aleksandra’s dramatic and edgy makeup set off this LOST themed editorial. Tropical island and couture gowns make it this editorial stand out from the other numerous beautiful photoshoots Marta Szczepaniak. Marta certainly has a perceptive eye for fashion photography.

Model: Marlena Kupryjaniuk Stylist: Ewelina Drozdziuk Makeup: Paulina Ciborowska Hairstylist: Adrian Wlasiuk Statement Jewelery. Striking facial features. Bohemian themed textiles in autumn colors. These factors combined together make beautiful editorials.

7 Aleksandra Kaniewska MUA : Sylwia Radlica Designer : Zaneta Uba Model : Kasia Wiewiór, MAGTEAM Model Management Assistant : Damian Kubicki Pavo Cristatus I would never have thought of a Peacock headpiece as being fashion forward but this one is absolutely stunning. The headpiece and how the red lightening is compliment by the subtle red hue eye makeup makes this editorial! m e s s m ag . c o m

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8 Mateusz Bral Models: Michał Sadowski, United For Models & Paulina Cybulska, NEVA Models Stylist: Robert Łosyk Makeup: Vika May Hair: Andzelika Wojczyszyn

9 Paul Kim

Photography Assistant: Hannah Kim Fashion Stylist: Angelina Scantlebury Hair Stylist: Yajaira Daniel Makeup Artist: Jenny Scarpelli Nail Artist: Jessica C. Models: Karolina Krilaviciute, Red Model Management Beautiful Warrior The tile says it all. The tribal detailed jewelry and feathered shoulders defines this beautfil Warrior. I love this portrayal of a strong and powerful women.

Dramatic use of lights. Male versus Female dynamic. A fashion tale between menswear and ladies wear. They compliment each other and widen the versatility of the editorial.

10 Magic Owen Hair & Makeup: Natasha French Model: Dani, MOT Star Light Sexy, edgy and sensual. This rock chick glamitorial is most definitely Magic. Magic Owen’s name does not let us down. He uses unique photographic angles and blurred editing to add to that rocky feel. 112

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BEAUTY

Get your punk look If you've heard of the punk rock band Blondie, you'll definitely have heard of the singer Debbie Harry. Known for her luscious blonde locks and bright lipstick during the 70's, 80's and 90's there's no doubt she was an obvious trend setter and still is to this day! Not only has her signature look been the inspiration for numerous runway shows such as 3.1 Phillip Lim, but teenagers today are too, getting inspiration from her! Her looks range from bold eyelids to a more softer and subtle look. However, seeing as the aim here is to achieve her most worn look, I'll tell you just what products you will need for an electric Debbie Harry.

DEBBIE HARRY the

Look

L’oreal infallible eyeshadow “555 Perpetual Purple”

eyes For her always dramatic & shimmering eyes try L’oreal infallible eyeshadow try “341 Strawberry Blonde” for a softer pink look or“555 perpetual purple” smoky purple look.

L’oreal infallible eyeshadow “341 Strawberry Blonde”

Lips Her lips are often bold colors ranging from reds to pinks. Try Mac cosmetics Retro Matte range in “Ruby Woo” or for a softer look from the satin finish range “Pink Nouveau”.

MAC cosmetics Lipstick “Pink Nouveau””

face Her face makeup is very minimal. Some bronzer will do the trick. NARS “Laguna” is perfect! MAC cosmetics Lipstick “Ruby Woo”

NARS Bronzer “Laguna” m e s s m ag . c o m

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For the ones who want to go all out with the gothic dark purple lip look Chanel Rouge Allure “Hysteria”

The perfect not too dark not to bright color MAC cosmetics Rocky Horror Show Limited Edition “Oblivion”

For the dark glossy look L’oreal Glamshine Stain “Juliet”

Dark Lips

OUR FAVORITE PRODUCTS During the autumn season there always seems to be something hot about rocking a dark lip, perhaps it’s because of Halloween and the fact that a dark lip can provide the sexy vampire look we all secretly desire.

A long-lasting wearable dark lipstick with red undertones NARS Audacious Lipstick “Ingrid”

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A sheer and moisturizing option Revlon Just Bitten Balm Stain “Adore”

BEAUTY

Step by Step to...

utumn lips

1. know your shade

Having the right shade is important especially when it comes to burgundy, there are four undertones: pink, blue, brown and red. One to suit everybody. Pink based burgundy colours look best on light eyed people as it’ll make your eye pop. A brown burgundy will bring out dark eyes perfectly. Blue based burgundy suits everyone from fair to dark skin, but looks best with a radiant glow. This colour is often recognised as the colour oxblood or mulberry. A deep red burgundy will look best on brunettes as their hair balances out and can support the intense colour.

2. line your lips

Lining your lips with a lip pencil can prevent the lipstick from feathering and will give you lips a precise borderline. Start with lining the rim of your lips, following the natural contours. Then fill in your whole lip with the pencil to extend the longevity of the lipstick.

3. use a brush

Now that you have the shade that flatters you most it is important to apply your chosen lipstick with a brush, because dark lipstick can often end up dry and streaky if not applied correctly. Using a brush also allows the colour to really get into the lip and helps it stay on longer. For the best results swipe it on from the outer corner of the mouth to the centre on both the upper and lower lips.

4. be confident

Wearing a dark lip is a bold statement, so be sure to keep the rest of your makeup simple, try not to overdo it with eye makeup and focus on applying an extra coat of mascara instead of the heavy eyeliner. If you have a light skin tone apply a bright blush so that you don’t look washed out.Hold your head high and own the room with you new and improved dark lip and don’t forget to watch out for lipstick on your teeth.

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ART

DAVID FINCHER Seven, Fight Club, Panic Room, Zodiac, The Curious Case of Benjamin Button, The Social Network, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo – creme de la creme of Hollywood most thrilling productions, all belong to one director. David Fincher is a filmmaker like many others – started up with directing commercials, then music videos, to eventually enchant the larger audience with full-length productions. What do we love the most about them? The atmosphere of constant anxiety, twists in action that are impossible to predict and, last but not least, the impeccable casting choices. Born in 1962, Denver, Colorado, Fincher was lucky enough to grow up with George Lucas as his neighbor. Did that have any

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influence on his later career choice? Yes, it did – Lucas hired him in his special effects studio at the age of 19. Another influential factor in young David’s life was the movie Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid certainly, as Fincher once admitted. He took his 8mm camera and started making his very first movies when he was 8. After homemade productions, his next step was commercials. The most interesting fact is that, contrary to other directors who started out that way, Fincher doesn’t seem to be embarrassed by his beginnings. He speaks openly about the spots that he directed for companies like Pepsi, Revlon, Converse and even Chanel! It’s one thing that they were quite respectable companies, but most of the top directors would still hide that fact.

There is nothing usual about David Fincher anyway. As the Playboy reporter writes in an introduction to his interview with Fincher: „Tell him you like his films, for instance, and he shoots back at you, ‚Well, it’s always nice to meet new perverts‘.“ The actors describe him as tough to work with (apparently, Robert Downey Jr. compared the Zodiac set to ‚a gulag‘...), but people who know him better describe Fincher as a funny, absurdly intelligent and even... gracious! What came after the commercial spots? Music videos. For fashion lovers (who we assume you probably are) Madonna’s „Vogue“ was among others. And what are the others? Those who are for music exactly what Pepsi is to sodas, meaning The Rolling Stones, Billy Idol, Paula Abdul, Aerosmith, Michael Jackson and the most recent one – Suit & Tie by Justin Timberlake! (Because even though you’re one of the most valued film directors now – why not direct music videos if it’s so much fun?). Speaking of something fun – what is more relaxing at the end of the day than an episode of your favorite TV series? We can bet that House of Cards is in your Top 5 (or even 3), of course created by Fincher (who else could have pushed one of the two most crucial to the action characters under the subway train at the beginning of a second season?). Enough about the past, let’s look into what’s going on right now. The timing is perfect since more or less two weeks ago Fincher’s new movie came into the cinemas. It’s the adaptation of the recent bestseller Gone Girl, written by Gillian Flynn. What to expect? The usual, which is the complete and utter unexpected. The intrigue that goes beyond any intrigue you know so far – and that’s kind of everything we can tell without ruining the fun of watching the entire thing. As usual, the actors (outstanding Rosamund Pike, somewhat lost Ben Affleck and, surprise, Neil Patrick Harris) do the great job under the reign of this thriller emperor. Have fun standing in the queue for the tickets!

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