ISSUE NO. 6 APRIL ‘15
Fashion Week we went to them all
LFW: ones to watch
BEST DESIGN NEWCOMERS
ICONIC FASHION & HOTSPOTS
Elie Saab, Galliano, Givenchy, Vivienne Westwaood
MOSCHINO LOVES BARBIE
EDITOR’S LETTER Dear Reader, #6 was one of the most anticipated issues of Mess Magazine so far and we proudly can say it is absolutely ‘Barbielicious’. After shooting our cover 3 times, in Bali, then in the USA and Europe, we decided to collaborate with Moschino and do cover shoot with Thomas Wawrzyniak in Sydney, Australia. Many of you may ask: ‘Why did Barbie Doll become an inspiration for this editorial’? The Barbie Doll is such an iconic persona in pop culture that often caused a stir in media by being one of the most controversial and inspiring topics. Every little girl has dreamt of being like a Barbie Doll at least once. When we grow up, we still wanna feel absolutely fancy in whatever we do. Be surrounded by glamour, luxury and a cute version of Ken. Aspiration of being absolutely stunning, tall and skinny blond girl has strongly influenced media and magazine’s editorials. From early age, we put a lot of focus on physical appearance, make-up, hair and fashion outfits. Deep down, we all wanna be like sassy Barbie Dolls. That’s why Barbie Doll look has become our theme for Issue 6. We wanna show you different aspects of being a Barbie Doll and living Barbielicious life! Enjoy and MESS MUST GO ON!
THE TEAM EDITOR-IN-CHIEF& CREATIVE DIRECTOR Dominika Perek EDITORS Lucy Creber Jessica Matthews Katie Chubb Romily Carnell Anna Peo Giulia Bardelli Charlotte Pratt Emmanuella Ngimbi Carl Neuville Anastasia Golovicera GRAPHIC DESIGNER Lilian von Keller PR & COMMUNICATION Shyvanne Delva Arabella Cristerna Sonja Dajuk Hannah Miller PHOTOGRAPHERS Tom Wawryzniak Konrad Czajkowski Joey Nicles Marco Rothenburger Kay Shea SPECIAL THANKS British Fashion Coucil Cannes Film Festival ModxChange ljifff
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF&CREATIVE DIRECTOR Dominika Perek email@example.com SUBMISSIONS&ADVERTISING firstname.lastname@example.org 2
MESS ONLINE FACEBOOK.com/MESSMAG INSTAGRAM.com/MESSMAGAZINE TWITTER.com/MESSMAG MESSMAG.TUMBLR.com ISSUE NO. 4 AUGUST ‘14
m e s s m ag . c o m
GIVENCHY AW ‘15
LFW ONES TO WATCH 70
LFW REVIEW 72
CONTENTS BARBIELICIOUS COVER SHOOT BARBIE CAR BEAUTY EDITORIAL RED VELVET PREVIEW
Moschino Milan Fashion Week Jeremy Scott, and Moschino Vivienne Westwood Trend Alert Denim
23 24 26 28
London Fashion Week Shows London Fashion Week Street Style Paris Fashion Week Shows Paris Fashion Week Street Style
30 32 34 40
Golden Globes Fashion Barbielicious Music Videos Mess x Health Luxury or Necessity: Spa
44 46 48 50
Paris: Hotspots Paris: Centre of Fashion Madonna x Jean Paul Gaultier Elie Saab John Galliano
57 60 62 64 66
PFW Givenchy LFW Ones to Watch LFW Review
67 70 72
Interview: Nico Santucci Top 10 Freshmess Interview: Camille Elphick
74 75 78
Moscow Fashion Week Review Hush Warsaw Review Favourite Polish Designers
80 81 82
6 26 51 94
GOLDEN GLOBES BEST AND WORST DRESSED
S E M H S E FR
s u o i iel c
i b r a B
photography & direction: TOM WAWNIK
modeling: styling: Styling
assistant: DANIELA DA RUI
MADI B. (CHIC MNGMT) MADNY HENG
assistant: JEAN-PAUL FAINT MISHA MORE
JESS CHAPMAN (NETWORK AGENCY USING MAC COSMETICS) LUKE NICHOLSON (DEBUT MANAGEMENT USING R+CO) CINDY VELLIS GUSTAVO WIJEWEERA
Bikini and Skirt: Moschino Watch: Swatch Purse: Colette
Top: Mooks Skirt: Mandy Heng Socks: Asic
Top and Skirt: Moschiono Cohen Platform Pumps: SPURR
Pink tulle evening gown: Mandy Heng, h High Heels: Nine West Bracelet & Handbag Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own
Top and Skirt: Stella McCartney for Adidas Socks: Asic Tennis Shoes: Nike
Bikini Set: Moschino Anklets: Natina Jewellery
Cowboy Hat and Jumper: Zoo Emporium Skirt: Sportsgirl Bag: Dangerfield Wellington boots: Michael Kors
Bow: Pamela Parker Bikini: Moschino
Pink Wraparound Top and Skirt: Mandy Heng High Heels: Fiebiger Accessories and bag: Cream on King messmag.com
MILAN FASHION WEEK
It’s been a year… It’s been a year since we’ve first seen Jeremy’s first collection for Moschino. I’ve always been obsessed with this brand. It’s always extraordinary and unique. The style is recognizable and we can easily spot a Moschino chic in the crowd. I decided to visit Milan Fashion Week for the first time in my life. I was really excited. I planned my outfits 1 month before the flight. I wish I could meet Jeremy personally, but he was too busy with his latest collection. I arrived on the 24th of February, waiting to receive my invitation at the hotel, but the reception kept telling me they didn't receive anything for me. I was in panic. On the 26th I called the Moschino office and visited them for a «golden ticket» to the show. There was a big bear inside their office telling me «I am not a Moschino toy», so I took a selfie with it. The fashion show was later on that day. People were expecting this event the most. Gucci and MaxMara - cool, but Italians and famous editors wanted some fun! As soon as I walked in, I saw Anna Dello Russo and MIA. Paparazzi covered them with flashes, so I couldn't see their faces, but they were absolutely fabulous. I took my place on the second row next to the runway when the show began. I was absolutely shocked; I couldn't believe I was witnessing a MOSCHINO fashion show. I was holding Moschino panties in one hand - my invitation, and my iPhone in another hand. Sasha Luss was doing her fabulous catwalk when someone behind me started pushing. A woman with a big flash. Moschino staff told her that she was disturbing me and other people taking pictures, but she didn't care. She said she had to work. Then boys asked her again about the flash, but she started pushing even more. Suddenly, she pushed me really hard and my iPhone fell on the runway. I was shocked. I couldn't breathe, because models were coming out and they could fall or break my lock screen (but falling is way worse than breaking my iPhone). I screamed (it wasn't loud) and asked a stranger to give me his phone, so I took a picture of my iPhone on the runway. I was scared the time would come for the final catwalk to kill my iPhone. But, my iPhone was spared. The collection was amazing. `The final dresses reminded me of his first dresses for Moschino, silhouettes were the same, but prints were different. I fell in love with the accessories! ‘Ready to Bear’ was a good joke for every fashionista. I love the way Jeremy makes the fashion industry look funny and cute. The backpacks were the sweetest - the bear backpacks were wearing backpacks too. And accessories had accessories, fun much? Colours were really bright and I fell in love with the necklaces. Some elements (silhouettes and colors) reminded me of 80’s. Jeremy shows us great fashion. He knows that Moschino is a special brand and it’s really important to make Moschino women look elegant, but young and fresh. I know that the collection is full of MUST HAVEs. Jeremy makes everything trendy. We see these bears and we all need them, that’s why Scott is a very talented designer, he is not just creating, he makes us want it. messmag.com
Jeremy Scott, Moschino and Their Influence on Culture Today SS ‘15
Moschino, Moschino and more Moschino! It’s all anyone could talk about the past couple of fashion weeks. Jeremy Scott’s fun and creative 90s Barbie inspired collection (Spring/Summer 2015) is definitely one that will go down in history and it’s obvious why. The tall, thin plastic doll that has at some point been every little girl and some boy’s aspiration was his main inspiration for this show. Barbie was and still is a world-renowned public figure that continues to grow progressively. She gives us girls a sense of empowerment in the way that girls are able to be anything they desire to be. Whether this was Jeremy Scott’s intention with the collection, we don’t know, but he has definitely brought pink back, and this time it’s better than ever!
Jeremy Scott, who has been Moschino’s creative director since October 2013, has a strong message he wants to portray in the fashion world, and there’s evidently no stopping him! Even stating that he doesn’t care if critics don’t like him, which is probably the attitude anyone should have in the harsh business that is the fashion industry. Jeremy Scott has undoubtedly always been known for his quirky ways and carefree attitude as a result I’ve come to think that his last collections for Moschino are a perfect representation of his persona. They are the epitome of the term “think outside the box” (happy meal box in one case!) In fact the world of fashion hasn’t seen designs like this for a very long time, so Jeremy Scott’s collections were evidently a success in terms of taking a leap of faith and taking risks! These are very much needed within such an industry. AW ‘14/ ‘15
Jeremy Scott’s collections are very much inspired by the world of pop culture that is seen around us today. Modern art, music and film. They surround us wherever we seem to be and they influence us whether we realise it or not, that’s for sure! He has managed to combine both pop culture and television to create some very loud designs. Mixing the world-renowned Moschino brand with some of children’s favourite toys and TV shows was a smart move and one that should be pulled more often by other designers who wish to make a name for themselves. It doesn’t even have to be to this extreme, but seeing something out of the ordinary at Fashion Week is a breath of fresh air. With social media taking over our lives more and more, whether we like it or not, the youth of this generation are starting to take more note of what is happening in the world. They are getting more involved with the latest fashion trends and they’re becoming more influential than ever. Therefore targeting the youth with his designs was a strategic move. With fans from all over the world he has also managed to attract an audience ranging from many ages! Although most teenagers are unable to afford his couture Barbie or Spongebob Squarepants sweaters they opt for the slightly more affordable phone case in the shape of a Barbie mirror. Jeremy Scott has clearly thought this plan through and curated playful and fun accessories that are acceptable for a younger audience. He’s explained that fashion should be joyous
AW ‘14/ ‘15
and there should not be an age to his garments. Fashion is all about thinking outside of the box, experimenting with different textures and prints. Moschino’s latest collections have no doubt been admired amongst many fashion journalists and a-list celebrities such as Miley Cyrus, Rita Ora and fashion blogger Chiara Ferragni. We’ve also seen Anna Dello Russo, editor-at-large and creative consultant for Vogue Japan has been spotted at Fashion Week sporting the McDonald’s sweater. Proving to us that his designs have no age! Jeremy Scott is evidently a creative mastermind, mixing pop culture with fashion showing us what exactly the industry should be about. There’s definitely more he has to offer and we can’t wait to see what other surprises he has in store!
th She’s the designer who shaped the punk-culture of the 1970’s. From the early beginnings of her store ‘SEX’, right to her shows at Fashion week, we are going to take a little insight into the world of Vivienne Westwood, the queen of punk. Her career and love for fashion started with moving into London, at the age of 17. She attended Harrow School of Art. After just attending one term, she chose to leave, with an ambition to make it big in the art world one way or another. She then moved on to training to become a teacher, while at the same time also working in a factory. She became a primary school teacher soon after, with still a love for designing. On the side she sold jewelry at a stall on Portobello Road. In the early 1970’s, her love for fashion had a huge burst. She met Malcolm McLaren, who from then on lead to her working aside him and his store ‘Let It Rock’, which soon turned into the iconic London store ‘SEX’, which presently known as ‘Worlds Ends’. Her huge inspirations when designing for the store was bikers, rebellious attitude and prostitutes. The controversial style she brought to the London Streets caused huge uproar, but shaped an entire sub-culture. During the same time, her companion Malcolm McLaren became the band manager for ‘The Sex Pistols’. The band then worked alongside with her designs, influencing the younger generation and inspiring style to fellow fans.
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She is known for encouraging the punk-scene. Styles included bondage, BDSM fashion, metals, spikes, ripped fabrics and all things anti, topped with crazy hair and vibrant makeup. One of her most iconic pieces sold at ‘SEX’ was her semi-naked cowboy t-shirts illustrated by Jim French. She also had huge inspiration for 17th and 18th century fashion, creating pieces which relive the past, with a hunt of modern sub-culture. The punk-culture revolution was fading, however her designing and creativity grew. Moving into the 1980’s Vivienne showcased her first collection in London named Pirate. The rough, pirate essence to her designs has lived on til present day still showing strong influence in her work. A decade later she launched her first menswear collection, with also alongside winning British Designer of the Year. This was the true beginning of her break, showing her style and creativity, and soon to be one of the biggest influences in the fashion industry. "Vivienne does, and others follow” Her controversy to society and fashion still held strong with her collections. In 2003 she sent her menswear collection down the catwalk, with all
her male models wearing fake breasts, topped with cashmere sweats. Four years on, she moved on to winning Outstanding Achievement at British Fashion Awards. In 2012, with the Olympics being held in London she designed her collection around the influence of the global event. She created a range T-shirts with imagery of torches, medals and greek figures, a trickle down to her usual wondrous designs. While also designing T-shirts in her past for current world affairs, she also grew controversy and talk in the media during the same year. She designed a range of shirts in support of Journalist Julian Assange, which was given to her guests to wear front row at her Spring/Summer 2013 catwalk. With much praise in the industry yet uproar in the media, Vivienne Westwood has become on the most iconic British designers in the industry, alongside big names such as Alexander McQueen. She has lived on to influencing thousands of artists, new talents, sub-cultures and designers. Her work has been seen all around the world. Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worked alongside big names and brands such as David Bailey, Pamela Anderson, MELISSA and The Rug Company. She is also famously known for being featured in some of her own campaigns, such as Red Label 2007. She is carrying on as being a huge influence for her diverse tailoring, styling and designs, and holding the heart of the punk sub-culture. Holding shows at London Fashion week under the brand name, she is has grew into be the one and only, Vivienne Westwood, the queen of punk.
It’s a statement that can make or break you. A double of the denim fabric can be a fashion fad or a massive fashion trend to the fashionista’s eye. However with SS15 Denim x Denim appearance making it all seem so appealing, we can’t help but have flashbacks of the famous ‘Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake 2001’ show stopper. Denim is timeless and can complete some of the most classic outfit combinations. It something every girl has in her wardrobe, either in blue, white, grey or black. With ripped and customize denim being a huge want on the highstreet near to the end of 2014, it’s no surprise it’s has hit the catwalk in a range of combinations, and keeping strong for the SS15 season. The fabric was first created for workers, due to its durability and it’s strong fibres. The fabric was known for it’s long lifespan, making it ideal for the typical middle-class worker. From the 1800’s, denim has evolved in fashion and work life. From American Gold Miners to Teen rebellion, Denim has lived through a range of jobs and sub-cultures. The fabric was a lifestyle, and made huge impact to society. Through business and in cultural influences. During the 1800’s, Levi’s was created by Leob Strauss. Strauss wanted to create sustainable work wear for the men down in the gold mines. He teamed up with a tailor, to then create a range of jeans, which got renamed and branded as Levi, rather than his own name Leob. From then on, Denim was used for work. In 1950, James Dean was seen in denim in the film ‘Rebel Without a Cause’. The young generation jumped on to the denim worn in the film, creating and trend within the young generation. The name ‘Denim’ comes of a huge background. Denim was originally called serge de Nîmes, which soon got shortened. The reason for the name is down it being first made in Nimes, France by a family called the Andre family. Now being one of the biggest essentials to anyone’s lifestyle, denim is now available in all shapes, styles and sizes. With 1990’s & 2000’s seeing Denim in Vogue and a range of high brands on the catwalk, it was clearly a fashion ‘must-have’. With the popularity of denim, a range of brands have been established, such as Calvin Kleins (and there iconic advertisements), Levi’s, True Religion, Current/Elliot, Rag
& Bone, J Brand, AG Jeans and Diesel. The list is forever expanding due to high demand from the market and trends. When it’s seen on the catwalk, it also has to be seen in campaigns. We’ve all heard of the iconic Calvin Klien adverts, such as ‘Brooke Shields’ in 1981, which caused huge controversy. Yet we’ve also seen big stars such as Justin Bieber get cosy with Lara Stone. Additionally brands, such as Alexander Wang, Lui-Jo, Levi’s have also given themselves the iconic spot for adverts, which are racy and full of big names. So denim is back on high demand as usual, but can you risk the trend? Here at MESS we say yes to taking the trends and fashion to a new level in ways it can completely work! Already for SS15 we have seen a confident use of the combination. Brands such as Stella McCartney, Gucci, Roberto Cavalli, Fendi and Chloe have took huge interest in the trend. Some double it up, but some keep it simple. However seeing big names take on the trend shows the highstreet will be down for it these coming spring months. So who has worked the trend better than others? We’ve nailed down the brands who have been heavily influenced by the trend in the most creative, stylish ways possible.
Stella McCartney Box shapes and low waists. For SS15 McCartney took a huge focus on the fabric, giving the double up a whole new perspective. Large pockets and ‘squiggle’ detail, the collection is the right way of creating the denim co-ord, with a style of masculine and luxury. Fendi Another big name using the co-ord method is Fendi. Although the huge focus is layering, the SS15 collection held a more feminine approach. Cropped jackets, waist lines and skater dresses, the collection is a shade of light blue denim. Not too outstanding, yet daring enough to be double denim. Chloe It’s a take on of the timeless outfit ‘the white shirt and jeans’ look, however mixed up to fit into the wants of 2015. Boxed shaped and widening the body, Chloe used demin for high waisted shorts, shirts, dresses and tops. Each put with a basic white or dark blue garment. Simple yet effective. Kenzo With the trend of distorting the body, Kenzo have mixed that up with oversized and denim. Huge zips, midi skirts and unflattering baggy shapes, Kenzo worked with ‘one part denim’ to each outfit. 70’s baggy flares, with tight slit midi skirts, the whole collection is refreshing to see and brings a whole new way of using denim. Paired with a white shirt and light blue cotton, the collection is another simple interpretation of the trend. Gucci Western meeting denim, Gucci’s SS15 collection is a mix
of colours, textures and detail. Denim boxed shape dresses, with laced up ribbon at the front. Other pieces included double denim outfits, of a light and darker shade. Topped with neutral shades, the collection is modern wild west. Roberto Cavalli Mixed with lace, metallic’s and cold tones, Cavalli has used denim in the simplest ways of layering. Not seen as much as other brands with doubling up on top and bottom, denim has been used simply to layer over dresses in a simple shirt. The mix of lace and light shades give the denim a elegant look. Denim is a clear big trend for the spring/summer season of 2015, which can go so right or so wrong. When double deniming, remember to go for two exact shades, or shades with a slight difference. This creates a co-ord, which is easy to dress up and dress down with other colours, without too much of a clash. Do not patchwork. When mixing denim, do not go overboard. Patchwork creates unnecessary clash, and can be unflattering. With that don’t make EVERYTHING denim. Remember less is more. However we can never forget the most classic way of wearing denim. White shirt, jeans and boots, the timeless outfit which can be dressed up and dressed down. With the masculine shapes trend, this is an outfit which can be comfortable, and minimal. Here at MESS we cannot wait to see where this trend leads, with influences on other designers and on the highstreet. So go on girls, get those denim trousers and shorts and work the combination!
LONDON FASHION W EEK 2015
Images by: Konrad Czajkowski
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LONDON FASHION WEEK 2015
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PARIS FASHION W EEK 2015
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PARIS FASHION W EEK 2015
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ANNE SOFIE MADSEN
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PARIS FASHION W EEK 2015
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ANNA KARIN KARLSSON FOR MESS
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PARIS FASHION WEEK 2015
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GOLDEN GLOBES 2015 best dressed...
BEST WINTER WHITE GOWN
Kate Hudson took the Red Carpet in a white Versace gown with a plunging neckline, cutouts on the side bedazzled with diamonds showing off her petite figure. Hudson left little imagination in all our minds with a race back and cutouts leading to the side of her hips. Even with two children, Hudson is letting us know you can still look good.
best glittery details In a bedazzled Lanvin Jumpsuit, Emma Stone showed off the fitting bodice which was embellished with rhinestones, pockets in the pants, and a bow at her waist. Keeping it simple Stone paired the super chic jumpsuit with a classy Christian Louboutin black heels, Lanvin clutch, Lorraine Schwartz earrings and Ofira ring.
best split dress Jennifer Lopez shows off her tone legs in Versace gown. She served us cleavage on a platter with a plunging neckline and a thigh-high slip up the center. She paired this beaded gown with Jimmy Choo cluth and waterfall earrings. No one can steal the spotlight from her and no one can do it like J-Lo.
This past January, the 72nd Golden Globe Awards honored the best in film and television. We not only wanted to see the nominees for Best Motion Picture or Best Performance By An Actress In A Motion Picture but the looks that hit the red carpet. The Awards kicked off with some amazing styles and some ill-favored. Some actress selected that classic Hollywood charm, while others took a bold fashion risk. But first letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s discuss the best of the best at the Golden Globe.
best fitted red Helen Mirren looked stunning in a red fitted Dolce & Gabbana dress. Mirren did not need a necklace cause around the neckline had the right amount of embellishment. Carrying a cute red clutch and Chopard jewelry, Mirren rocked the Red Carpet proving age ainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t nothing but a number when it comes to fashion.
best plunging neckline Jessica Chastain showed enough in shimming bronzed Atelier Versace halter gown. The plunging neckline and pleated silhouette is nothing new on the Red Carpet but Chastain showed off her sexy side. Finishing off her look with a diamond statement bracelet and earrings from Piaget.
best dressed couple
Making their first major red carpet appearance together, George Clooney and newly-wed Amal were crowned best dressed couple. Amal Alamuddin was Clooney best accessory, brought the glamour wearing white elbow length gloves and black Dior gown. While Clooney recycled his wedding tux. He admit he was too busy watching football games while Amal was still looking and trying to figure out what she will do for the night. Clearly George know exactly what his was going to wear.
best dressed men
Dazzling us with fancy tuxedoes, bold patterns and colors, a ton of men bring their A game to the carpet. David Oyelowo was matching with his lovely wife Jessica. The â&#x20AC;&#x153;Selmaâ&#x20AC;? actor made a bold statement in a sparkly blue tux from Dolce & Gabbana. While Matt Bomer who won Best Supporting Actor kept it simple in a Ralph Lauren Black Label. And Jared Leto also left a statement on the carpet in a black and white tuxedo from Lanvin.
Keira Knightley Pregnant actress Keira Knightley is glowing at the awards in a Chanel gown. The floor length gown had white lace layering at the neck and at the bottom of the gown. The gown also had butterflies and feather prints which did not flatter her. Knightley paired it with a butterfly bracelet and black heels. She took a risk that just did not work but the baby bump was cute.
Lana Del Rey Lana Del Rey opt for a pleated aqua Decades gown had reminiscent the little mermaid. She is not the only one that didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get it rightâ&#x20AC;Ś
Zosia Mamet ...Zosia Mamet looked frumpy in a princess pink gown from Andrew Gn. The Gown did not flatter her skin tone or her newly-dyed grey hair.
Whether the style was a hit or a miss, we love to tune into the Golden Globe Awards to see the ensembles. We see the red carpet evolve where many actors and actresses are now not playing by the rules. It is all about the actresses creating her identity and letting us know to look out for them. They are dressing for the 167 countries worldwide that watch them, hoping that we love their look. No expectation, stepping out the norm where some know that their peers will mostly play by the rules and wear an elegant gown. Best or worst look, we are still talking about them and will always love them. And congratulations to all nominees that took an award home.
WANT TO LIVE IN A
Barbie ORLD? W
So being a little girl in this world, means that growing up we have all played with Barbie dolls. Let me tell you for a lot of girls Barbie becomes an icon and inspiration, an inspiration to look plastic. From Barbie’s silky blond hair to her all pink outfit, she seems the true perfection that she projects. However, over the years the figure of Barbie has been criticized. It apparently provides unnecessary thoughts to young girls to achieve the unrealistic body image. In many cases girls have taken on health issues to achieve this goal. Making the Barbie doll more interesting it comes with voice recordings, which says ‘ Math class is tough’ and ‘I love shopping’. Not only does Barbie tell young girls that their body shapes are unappreciated but now education is unachievable for girls and feminine desires such as shopping become the ‘oxygen’ to life. Though Barbie has been known to have a what we call a ‘not-so-bad’ reputation recently the Barbie like theme appears in music videos from Stars like Katy Perry to Nicki Minaj want to include this image in their videos, let us see why shall we? What are these stars trying to influence young girls to do? Since music is a big part of life, and media decides to surround us, its significant that they do not set standards on how to be a girl.
Charlie XCX and Rita Ora ‘Doing It’
The music video featuring Charlie xcx and Rita Ora called ‘Doing it’ has the theme of Barbie throughout the video. It opens with a small girl playing with a pink truck, which gradually shows us the two singers in absolute perfection showing teenage girls what friendship looks like. As the video progresses the perfection, plastic theme runs right through to the end. For me, that its telling girls that the vision and image of Barbie and how girls are perceived will surround us but its up to young girls and women to do what we desire rather than conform to this image. Both women have created this world where they wear revealing clothes, shorts and a crop top; they look like they are having fun. It is okay for girls to imagine their own world as long as they do what they want. Later in the video, the Police car chases the girls and the ‘good girl’ image breaks down. When the little girl breaks the Police car it demonstrates the destruction of authority and the media telling girls what they should be like and should not be like. Katy Perry’s ‘Last Friday night’ gives us a view of what a normal girl would probably be like. The video starts off in a messy bedroom and we find Katy wearing pink and blue and has glasses and braces on. This image is a mixture of a typical nerd and a normal beautiful party girl. At first, she does not fit in with society’s version of what a ‘cool girl. However, Perry is quick to prove us wrong and shows girls that it is okay to have two sides to you. As a women/ girl you can be smart, sexy and fun. She tells us to embrace both sides and not to care about a girl’s image and what social media tells us.
Katy Perry ‘Last Friday Night’
Nicki Minaj’s ‘Barbie Girl’ consists of the ‘I’m a Barbie girl, in a Barbie world’ theme tune in the background while she provides us of her view of what Barbie is. She is unique and has different hair colours from turquoise to pink. She breaks down the image of the typical Barbie and shows us, we can be what we like, its not the materialistic things that matter. At one point in the video she is trapped by doll-like packaging, which she rips out of. The message is quit conforming and be who you want to be. Dolly Parton’s ‘Backward Barbie’, opens with a black and white background and a little girl and Dolly who are in colour. Their outfits and make-up are bright and stand out from the video. The little girl is more concerned about the makeup from the match and the fruits rather than the fascination of what each item is. They are both perfect blond models however the message is completely different. She wants to get rid of the perfect Barbie image because beneath all that she is deep and sensitive and her personality is what matters.
NIcki Minaj ‘Barbie Girl’
‘Knockout’ by Lil Wayne and Nicki Minaj is about creating their own version of Barbie and Ken is. The look they are both going for is different, unique and what society expects. Nicki has blond and green hair and Lil Wayne has long black locks and their outfits are darker from the typical Barbie and Ken. All the music videos are telling young girls and women to be who you are and that the outside is not as important as your personality. All girls are special no matter what shape, size and intelligent you are.
Nicki Minaj and Lil Wayne ‘Knockout’
Healthy MESS A New Year has passed, a new selection of Mess Magazine has launched. Mess understood the need to stay shape and be conscientious about your health. Messhealth has been such a great hit by providing our readers with health information and features from some great fitness gurus and doctors.
Being Healthy from the Inside Out With Health and Wellness a growing phenomenon on Social Media like Instagram, Facebook and Twitter. Mess interviewed Dr. Joel Kahn to break down his approach on "watch what you eat and do". This approach is developed by Dr. Kahn is a way to prevent and even reverse heart disease, leaving you with a balance healthy life. When asked "what are three top tips that you could give to a healthy person to prevent heart disease in the future." Dr Kahn answered "Fork, Feet Fingers: Use your fork very carefully, largely in fresh fruits, vegetables, whole grains, legumes, nuts and seeds. Never in processed junk food. Feet: Walk 30+ minutes daily, stand every hour, cardio, strength and flexibility training 30 mins a day, 6 times a week if you can. Fingers: Never smoke, quit now." Most people only worry about what their body’s looks like on the outside, but not realizing to like a healthy life it starts from the inside out. This brings us to the 80/20 principle (80% nutrition and 20% fatty food)! This principle should not be seen a diet but a way of life. When Jennifer from fitbottomgirls.com, she responded "I’m a big fan of the 80/20 rule. 80 percent of the time make the healthiest decision you can. The other 20 percent, have what you’re craving. That breakdown helps you to be healthy most of the time, without feeling deprived!" This is also known as "the cheap meal" or "the cheap day", this stops us from falling off the wagon and over eating foods we work so hard to leave out of our diet. Giving your body that fatty goodness our body craves sometimes than completely cutting off. So go on and have that "cheap meal" not "cheap day". Busy life Living in a busy society and having such a busy life, many people think I don't time to go to the gym or but concerns about what they are eating. But believe it or not, a simple 15 minute workout at home can change your life. Dr. Kahn explains "The gym is a luxury. The key to long term health is to walk even if broken up into 2 15 minutes sessions, stand at least 5-10 minutes an hour to spike your metabolism, and learn about 7-15 minute high intensity interval routines for training on days you can’t make the gym. There are many free apps to guide you on these."
Also cleaning out some clutter can make a difference in our health. Dana Claudat, a Feng Shui consultant gives steps on achieving a healthy life "Step One: Clear clutter in your home, ridding it of all the excess stuff you don’t need. Step two: Clear clutter in your life, subtracting out all out the negativity and draining energy people and places. Step three: Start fluffing things up with creativity. I believe that when people live more unimpeded, free-feeling lives they can both enjoy better health and experience more of their personal genius that lies within all of us." It's similar to before going on vacation clean up the house, so upon arriving back to your house that free-feeling is still there. Advice Here is some awesome advice to keep you motivated on your fitness journey: Nora Tobin is a monthly columnist and Contributing Fitness Editor to Shape Magazine, a model, Beach Volleyball athlete and Nutrition Specialist, says " I have ever been given was by my parents- never be afraid of the unknown, stay sunshine, be kind to everyone- period, dream bigger than you ever thought possible." Ashley Conrad from ClutchBodyshop.com gives three steps to stay fit, "1] don’t crash diet– 2] Find a plan that works and is balanced–check out Clutch Cut 3] Find a good stimulant-free supplement line that can help accelerate your results check out ours at Clutchbodyshop.com." Kelli Segars advice is "There is no shortcut for looking fit and feeling healthy. It takes work, but it is 100% worth it. You don’t need supplements, fancy gym equipment, or to look a certain way to start exercising; just start and stick with it; it’s a lifelong journey and you should be able to enjoy it, if not at least appreciate it for what it does for you in your life. You can find over 400 free full length workout videos at fitnessblender. com, with difficulty ranging from absolute beginner to very advanced; find a starting place that works for you, and listen to your body as you go. The rewards will be more confidence and energy, improved appearance, better health across the board, and a sense of empowerment from challenging yourself, treating your body well, and finding a healthy relationship with your body." To read more on each interview on Messmag.com.
Luxury or Necessity? None other than the citizens of the capital cities know what a hectic lifestyle is like. Buses, cars and buildings surround you the entire time and you feel entrapped in this never-ending cycle of work, children and home. However, having a break once in a while won’t hurt will it? Leaving things till the last minute has become a trend but why when you can explore millions of cities at their best! Personally, The Westin Paris- Vendome feels like a place worth exploring. For many decades Paris has been the eye of jealousy, its beautiful scenery, fashion sense, food and wine. With a combined 428 rooms with 80 suites Sybille de Margerie designed the hotel elegantly. The gorgeous views and their signature snuggly Heavenly bed, its designed for exquisite comfort. All guest rooms feature satellite TV, highspeed Internet and WIFI access. Spacious and deluxe, each suite has its own unique design. Featuring 13 meeting rooms and largest conference room and 3 historical ballrooms, it welcomes up to 2000 guests and can accommodate prestigious events of all kind and this can all be booked online. So if you want to celebrate your birthday, wedding or any other events… Why not celebrate in style with a Parisian View and a hotel that provides from head to toe.A breath of fresh air and a unique sense of style are just the very few luxuries it has to offer. From a free fitness session and spa session to inventive cuisine with a personal touch of an elegant setting by Jacques Garcia. Not only that but you can do all that with a beautiful view right on your doorstep. With the magnificent view of the iconic Eiffel Tower and Tuileries garden, you are surrounded by The Louvre museum, lace de la Concorde and the elegant fashion boutiques of rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré. The Paris Vendome hotel not only wants to welcome its guests but also keep them. It adds an extra thoughtful touch of having multilingual staff and a 24-hour concierge Clefs d’Or will help you get the most of the legendary City of Light. Like a mother’s care for her baby, The Vendome takes care of you with services like laundry, dry cleaning and business centre. So sit back and enjoy and they will do the rest for you. The restaurant welcomes you to an outdoor La Terrasse, whatever the season they will provide for your comfort. Healthy and delicious meals will be served with a complementary bar serving a selection of snacks and drinks. Perfect for families as they provide kids meals and drinks. With the inclusion of a deluxe and opulent spa, it provides natural Parisian spa products. The creator Elisabeth Visoanska desires to provide the Parisian comfort and its desirable preservation of youth. The French culture embodies youth and its requirement for natural yet powerful effects on beauty. For Vioanska beauty does not reflect just from the outside but from the inside also. She has created authentic and unique tablets with rejuvenating power to perpetuate the desired youthful glow. Her researchers have identified an atypical production of “survival molecules” that are naturally compatible with our bodies. These molecules teach your skin unparalleled resistance to external stress factors and boost its potential for longevity.The collection provides from daily cleansers to special skin type treatments ready to target any facial features to enhance your natural beauty. The chance to see the Parisian elegance and try the best skin care expert products and explore one of the busiest yet phenomenal cities in this entire universe is right now. This summer get yourself to Paris and stay at this hotel for a luxurious week. This seems like an absolute necessity for all you hard workers out there. Go on you need a break, you owe yourself this.
Photography: Marco Rothenburger www.marco-rothenburger.de
Anastasia (Muga Models)
Make Up & Hair: Lars R,ferrt
Location: HR Studios www.hrstudios.de
Eyes Shiseido (GR619), Chanel Black Stylo Yeux Waterproof, Dior Addict It-Lash
Eyes: Lancome Rouge Cabaret, YSL Couture Variation Palette & MAC Eyehighter Face: Chanel 190 Angelique
Eyes: Shiseido Lemoncello 216 & 619, Diorliner Nails: Chanel Paradisio Lips: YSL Volupte Tint-in-Oil messmag.com
Eyes: Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color (SV810) Face: YSL Touche Eclat Nails: Lancome Pearl Grey
Eyes: Shiseido Cardinal Lips: Dior Contur Le Crayon Levres (91), Dior Rouge Allure 154 Badline Nails: Chanel Provocation
Eyes: Lancome Rouge Cabaret, YSL Couture Variation Palette, MAC Eyehighter Blush: Chanel Angelique 190
S T O P Paris S T HO
Next for a spot of culture! Louvre Museum is one of the world’s largest museums and a historic monument. A central landmark of Paris, it is located on the Right Bank of the Seine in the 1st arrondissement. The museum not only looks stunning from the courtyard, but is a wondrous space below too. Visit when you have a bit of time and get lost in the iconic artworks, including the Inverted Pyramid that features the concluding pages of Dan Brown’s international bestseller The Da Vinci Code.
NAVIGATING YOUR WAY AROUND THE COUTURE CAPITAL CAN BE A CHALLENGE, SO I HAVE CREATED A LIST OF TEN OF THE MOST STYLISH PLACES NOT TO BE MISSED IN PARIS.
They say breakfast is the most important meal of the day and at Café PINSON, you are able to enjoy an amazing array of healthy, organic, vegetarian, vegan and wheat/ dairy free food. The first Café PINSON opened in the North Marais in December 2012 and has been designed and decorated by the talented French designer, Dorothée Meilichzon. It is a comfortable, welcoming venue with a menu that changes daily. The juices are fresh-pressed before your eyes, and the concoction of fruits and vegetables used to make these detox drinks also changes daily. The beautiful pastries are mostly vegan and gluten-free, and everything, including their vegan butter, is made in-house, overseen by American chef Cameil Kaundart. Café PINSON is unique in that as it is more than just a specialty restaurant for those with special dietary requirements, Agathe Audouze, one of the café’s founders, practices naturopathy, believing in the healing properties of fresh, whole, natural food.
Possibly the most famous shop ceiling in the world, the Galeries Lafayette has beautiful Belle Époque architecture and is also home to a department store shopping experience that will never be forgotten.. The men’s fashion space on the third floor, Lafayette Homme, even has a ‘Club’ area with Internet access. A vast new shoe department was unveiled in the basement featuring over 150 brands! On the first floor, Lafayette Gourmet has exotic foods galore, plus a vast wine cellar including its own Bordeauxthèque from 2010. A definite must for those who want to shop in style.
If you prefer something a little more racy, Crazy Horse cabaret bar is the evening entertainment venue of choice for super couple, Beyoncé and Jay-Z. Dita Von Teese loves to perform here, too, and put on a series of burlesque shows, to great acclaim, in 2009. Founded in 1951 by Alain Bernardin, an avant-garde artist, “Le Crazy” shows feature “new rhythms, dynamic tempos and ever more entrancing choreography”, the silhouettes of its world renowned dancers amaze audiences more than sixty years after opening and this venue is one of the best-known symbols of life in the city!
Well- known for its art deco design, high-end cuisine and iconic view of the Eiffel Tower , Monsieur Bleu is the best place to go for a late night dinner. The menu has something to please everyone from American classics including lobster rolls and fried chicken sandwiches to French specialties: frogs legs. There is also a full caviar and raw bar selection which you can enjoy with a glass (or bottle) of Champagne. Monsieur Bleu is open every day until 2am and DJs come on for entertainment. If you book a later dinner reservation you could stay for cocktails and make the most of the night.
Le Baron plays host to some of city’s best DJs as well as featuring live music acts and stars including Bjork and Sofia Coppola have frequented this hot spot. It is perfect for those who want to dance until the early hours of the morning. The club has an exclusive feel and is the place to be for the fashion forward.
Paris’s fashion credentials not only appear on the catwalk. The city offers some of the world’s most intriguing dinner spots and bars, which attract a suitably stylish clientele. If you fancy a bit of celeb spotting, L’Avenue is the place to go with the likes of Cara Delevingne, Kim Kardashian, Justin Bieber, Lana Del Rey and Rihanna grabbing a bite to eat at this restaurant which is situated a few steps from the grand Plaza Athenée hotel with its top designer boutiques. L’Avenue is the go-to spot for big spenders and those who like to people watch or be watched! The brasserie style food is uncomplicated but of a good quality and very tasty. The restaurant has a buzzing atmosphere and with waiters and waitresses that could be models, what’s not to love!
Le Bar du Plaza Athenee
Time for a pit stop and more Belle Epoque architecture, Angelina has been the heart of sophistication and indulgence since 1903! The interior designed by Edouard-Jean Niermans, combines elegance, charm and refinement. Angelina is famous for its “African” hot chocolate which is created from a special selection of cocoa from Niger, Ghana and Cote d’Ivoire and it is an explosion of chocolatey-ness, topped with fresh cream! If you fancy a sweet treat to accompany your hot chocolate, it has to be the iconic Mont- Blanc, which is a pastry that combines meringue, light whipped cream and chestnut paste, it is a unique, unrivaled recipe has made it Angelina’s famous trademark pastry since 1903.
Sex in the City fans will want to go for cocktails at Le Bar Du Plaza Athenee, it featured on the final episode of Sex and the City and of all the hotels in Paris, contains one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower. If you are anything like Ms Bradshaw, you will be pleased to know that bartenders here can make a very mean Cosmopolitan. If you are not a huge fan of “cosmo” there is a plethora of other cocktails that are varied and creative – with black Cosmopolitans and Mojitos offering up a unique spin on the original recipe. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights after 11pm, the calm blue bar transforms to rocking red and electronic rock starts to play.
THE EPICENTRE OF FASHION With some of the most memorable moments in fashion happening in the french capital, there is no Wonder it is the epicentre of the fashion World. it is Where
coco chanel created the iconic “little black dress” and Where marie antoinette lived and died for her affinity to la mode. designers old and neW gravitate to paris and continue to revolutionise the fashion World.
Paris retains a very influential fashion trade union known as the Fédération Française de la Couture created in 1973. The Federation is devoted to safeguarding French fashion and consists of three entities – the trade union of high fashion, the trade union of men’s fashion, and the trade union of women’s fashion. This is why the world’s best fashion designers have always operated from Paris. It is currently home to the headquarters of Balenciaga, Céline, Chanel, Chloe, Dior, Givenchy, Hermes, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Lanvin and Yves Saint Laurent. The concept of haute couture (high dressmaking’ or ‘high fashion’) was invented in Paris and is something that the world’s most prestigious fashion school, “Ecole de la chambre syndicale de la couture parisienne”, teach its pupils. Among the school’s alumni are Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino and André Courreges. Dior Haute Courture SS 2007 Each have been nurtured and taught design and technique. There they gained an understanding of the importance of both creativity and craftsmanship and this is predominant in their works.
Valentino Haute Couture SS 2011
Chanel Ready to Wear AW 2015/16
Paris is beautiful and full of beautiful people, the avenues and boulevards serve as the perfect catwalk for the “Parisian Woman”. These effortlessly, classy women oose freedom and have captivated people world over. The book How To Be Parisian by Audrey Diwan, Caroline de Maiggret and Sophie Mas brilliantly deconstructs the French woman's views on culture, fashion and attitude. Parisian women, have what the French call a certain “je ne sais quoi” and this is most prevalent during Paris Fashion Week. The arrival of celebrities, bloggers and those fortunate enough to be invited to shows at grand venues, is a mesmerising spectacle in itself. Despite not having an invitation to a show, many people still dress to the nines in the hope of being papped by one of the countless street style bloggers that flock to fashion week in the hope of capturing the trend innovators off the catwalk. Christian Dior ‘New Look’ 1947
Audrey Hepburn in Givenchy
Many of the celebrities attending shows, are already wearing clothes that will be presented at that show. Designers send their brand ambassadors pieces that will be unveiled at the show, in “avant-premiere”, which just adds to the whole spectacle. Nobody makes an entrance like the street style legend and editor of Vogue Japan, Anna Dello Russo. With her eccentric, head turning ensembles she always outdoes herself she has confidence in what she wears and so it isn’t questioned. The Paris Fashion Week is the finale of the big four fashion weeks – the others being Milan Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, and New York Fashion Week. Held predominantly in the Carrousel du Louvre, Paris fashion week helps dictate what the world will be wearing next season. Everyone who is anyone wants to be seen in the “front row” of shows/. This is because the real heavy weights of the global fashion industry both commercially and creatively come together to create. People who would not normally be directly associated with fashion are drawn to the city.
Zoolander for Valentino PFW ‘15
An example of this was Karl Lagerfeld’s Brasserie Chanel which was totally charming, but the show stopper of the week was Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson, making a surprise appearance in the Valentino show. The actors who star in cult film: Zoolander, took to the catwalk for the show finale. It was something that the audience did not expect. This is why Paris remains the fashion capital of the world. You have to be ready to encounter the unexpected yet undoubtedly authentic. From John Galliano’s vulnerable debut ready-to-wear collection for Maison Margiela to Rei Kawabuko’s thought provoking, Comme des Garçons show, there was something real on the runway in Paris that wasn’t as prevalent in the other fashion weeks. Although there are those who try to state otherwise; magazines and designers in Paris have an amazing ability to be flexible and understanding of the rapidly evolving fashion landscape. The term “Paris Original” used to thrill women and it is clear that people do still respond to innovative, interesting and yet wearable clothes. More young aspiring designers go to Paris to learn and show their work than the other “fashion capitals”.
Solange Knowles PFW ‘15
Anna Della Russo Pre-Show PFW ‘15
Images by: Konrad Czajkowski
Madonna’s Coachella’s kiss... Is this the Worst of it? Madonna has a great reputation of exploding the Internet with her outrageous moments and unique sense of style! For example last weekend, Coachella, for some it was to experience culture and music but for Drake it was a very different story. It sent social media into a hysterical mess with millions of tweets per minute and headlining in all magazines the next day! With many musician stage outfits from Beyoncé to Taylor to Madonna, by far Jean Paul Gaultier’s corset was Internet break worthy. At Madonna’s ‘Blonde Ambition World Tour’ it was one of the most recognizable fashion moment. She wore a corset made especially for her by Gaultier’s and Our universe went MAD! It was a corset- style body suit with garters, 1990, Duchess Satin. It was placed beautifully with Madonna’s elegant figure. Her untraditional outfit broke not only social conventions but also the outdated way of performing which influenced artists all over the world to perform with their unique vision. At the exhibition in Brooklyn in 2013 Gaultier’s Corset was displayed and Madonna expressed her views on his costume: Gaultier’s corsets are very sexy-looking, and I consider wearing them a form of personal expression. The practice is oppressive only if it is forced, and women today can choose to wear them or not; it is up to them. Plus, I wore those corsets as garments—on the outside—not as underwear hidden beneath my other clothes, the complete opposite of the way they were traditionally worn, in order to achieve a certain shape. I think that inversion of the concept of the corset is what turns it into a symbol of feminine power and sexual freedom. —Madonna
Madonna and Gaultier seem to bring out the exclusivity in art. The hit the stage again in 1992 when Madonna and Gaultier marched on the catwalk in a boyfriend blazer which she then removed to expose her breasts in a Gaultier-cut-to-make-you-yearndress. V.S magazine live.com commented, “Both Gaultier and Madonna still have the power to move us. Jean Paul just proved this again, in Paris.” Before Madonna became the ultimate idol, she modeled for some magazines, which resurfaced back in the hands of the media. Then publishers Warner Books and Callaway Books collected all the pictures along with some new ones and created a book, named “sex”. It pushed societal boundaries and established that she was unafraid to expose in a way that no other artist has ever done. Just as we thought Madonna has had her light of fame she sparked another controversy when she kissed Britney at the MTV 2003. We just thought Britney got away with it but it seems Christina Aguilera was also a lucky girl. It was the most watched performance in history, giving Madonna the courage to show off her femininity no matter what. Although Madonna probably gets a lot of hate comments, she fights back “The World is big enough for all of us! I will fight for my rights as an artist, a human and a woman till the end of my days!” Most women decided to show off their elegance and femininity on the red carpet but Madonna had different ideas. Wouldn’t she just! She came in head to toe Givenchy couture flaunting her breasts and butt in an untraditional way. It wasn’t elegance she was going for, but feminine individuality. Although already known for her straightforwardness, sexual openness and controversial nature, Gaultier nonetheless influenced her. His unique flare for sparking controversy in an artistic manner and her thirst to expose the unexpected, they have become an unstoppable pair. His inspiration has caused her to even further create controversies in performances and in art. Her revealing outfits, sex book and French kissing both genders have all become a new kind of convention of artists. Meaning Madonna has created the “New Era” all influenced by Gaultier. With Madonna’s desire for rare taste in expressing femininity and Gaultier’s noted appreciator of the female form, they have taken the world by storm.
What would you do if one day your eight year old son was rummaging through your drawers, frantically searching for the correct colour of material to sew to the bottom of the eccentric dress he had draped on your daughter, and the next, he was launching his own fashion label? If he swapped mud, sticks and stones, for pearls, crystals and lace? You would be proud. Perhaps a little worried at first, but then extremely proud. Well that’s what Elie Saab shocked his mother with.
Halle Berry, Oscars 2002
The 50 year old Lebanese fashion designer, who graces us with his Haute Couture each and every season, started off his career by crafting detailed wedding gowns with rich fabrics and silk threads. He was noticed by high society women in Beirut, and his journey to fame began. And then what would you say to your son if he received the opportunity to clothe Queen Rania of Jordan for her enthronement? You would congratulate him in the biggest way possible. Elie Saab had grown in publicity over the years, and a Queen wearing his own design helped get his ideas out into the world much quicker than he had expected. He continued to succeed, and in 2002 he became the first Lebanese designer to dress an Oscar Winner, Halle Berry. She wore his burgundy gown design when she took to the stage to accept her award for Best Actress, and from the moment she stepped off, Saab was bombarded with interviews from the top networks around. He was the next best thing to happen to red carpet fashion, and the public loved him and his designs. Saab was going to be sticking around.
His charming creations can be found all over the world, with boutiques located in Beirut, Dubai, Doha, Paris, London, Geneva, Hong Kong, and Mexico, which itself screams success. The young boy, who was once sewing his self-made designs at the kitchen table, is now sewing into the world and showing off his self-trained talents all over. The next time you’re taking a trip to one of these locations, take my word and stop at his boutique. You won’t be disappointed when you peer at his elegant designs in many colours of ivory, cobalt, maroon, and so on; the list doesn’t end soon. When Saab showed off his first Haute Couture collection in Paris 2009, his reputation grew and celebrities swarmed him for their own sophisticated and romantic design, as a bee might do to a rare and luxurious flower. Soon he gained well known competition, such as fellow Lebanese designers Zuhair Murad, Ella Zahlan, and Hanna Touma, and the race to the top began. Elie Saab SS ‘09
Competing with designers from his own country, it introduced a new type of competition. Saab has to make sure he has the upper hand at all times, as designers like Murad, Zahlan, and Touma all have extremely similar style. His 2014 Pre-Fall collection threw a large embellished spanner into the works, when Saab produced an array of new techniques and fabrics used. His theme was ‘folk reverie’, and he twisted his harvest inspired idea into an abstract performance full of texture, embroidery and plenty of red and purple flowers draped in lace. Perhaps this is the exact reason why his brand stands out from his fellow exquisite designers, and proves his global glamour? Most use the in-between-season time to hang back and please existing customers, but Saab pushes forwards and brings his own customers new unique and exciting pieces instead. With his side of the brand that he dedicates to wedding gowns, Saab has huge competition from Reem Acra, another Lebanese designer. Together, they are seen as the pioneers of Lebanese fashion design, however what distinguishes them apart? They both include their home countries culture within their designs, on a huge scale, but Acra portrays more of a ‘modern women’ into her ideas. Although this does open her up to more options with woman who will be buying these dresses, as they have more of a varied selection, it does not portray the idea of exclusiveness as much as Saab’s does. On your wedding day, you want the whole party to be staring at you in your customized gown, and admiring how beautiful you look, not thinking back to that picture they saw in a magazine of a women looking remarkably similar to how you look now. However, despite this, both designers are extremely popular in the wedding gown industry, and they will continue to be as long as they keep up their striking designs that we have all come to love.
Elie Saab SS ‘15
In 2011, Saab launched his first fragrance "Le Parfum" which became an overnight bestseller in 15 countries. If you told him back then that he would be competing with Balenciaga and Carven for the best-selling perfume on the shelves right now, he would probably have shook his head and laughed at you. Or perhaps he would have agreed and told you that he knew the day would come? Who knows? But even just the idea that he started with the blossoming ambition to make lavish wedding dresses and ball gowns sweep the world and take us all away on his dreamlike designs, and now he has three major workshops in Lebanon, Milan and Paris, makes us see a snippet into how far his perfumes will go, too. Saab has released his third line of fragrances this year, with his Eau de Perfum creating ‘splendour and radiance of a glowing femininity’, which is just what we like to hear. If his perfume is equally as gorgeous and delicate as his dress designs, which it most definitely is with the pastel hues of fresh almond mixed in with budding orange blossoms - his signature scent - I’ll be fifty shades of green with envy if I can’t get my hands on it! Saab’s ‘Spring 2015’ collection reflects his original wedding gown ideas, with the long and elegant sheer dresses contrasting with and against his contemporary shorter ones. His usual portrayal of the fabulous ‘Disney dress’ has been kept alive, however this time he has finished it off with feathers and beads and sheer inserts. With being known for his shimmering red carpet look, this collection must have kick started something within him, as his 60’s childhood of the “golden age” shone out within his fresh new line-up. Unexpected proposals of these sheer tulle jumpsuits and tulle robe coats with feathers on the sleeve all introduced his new relaxed persona. Plus, sticking to his chilled out vibe, nearly all the designs he showed, gowns included, were built with pockets, which we never thought we would see from Saab. Who knows what else will come from him, it is a changing world after all. Elie Saab SS ‘15 messmag.com
JOHN GALLIANO IS BACK John Galliano is back, with his first ready-to-wear collection with Margiela and we were not disappointed. It was a stroke of madness going down the catwalk with over exaggerated lipsticks, bold eye makeup and yes some hunch-backed models. It was a vision of vintage designs meeting high fashion and perfectly reflects John Galliano and his sense of style. With Pat McGrath’s behind the vibrant make-up, the whole collection was brought together to look like innocent girl in a painting. Palette colours of beiges, blacks, whites and neutral tones, visually clashing with bright coloured makeup designs of reds, turquoises, yellows, greens and pinks. With the diverse palette came also variety of textures. Mixtures of furs, nets, patent leathers, suede, silks, and range of patterns it’s like this collection had no boundaries. However do we feel Galliano has still captured the essence of Margiela? It’s a new twist to the brand and is a gradual move from the ‘tired’ and ‘worn out’ typical Margiela image. However it still holds it’s taste of minimalism and modern, with a touch of John Galliano’s wild creativity and style. It all was a brave move for Galliano but has worked perfectly with the brand’s image and has a brought a fresh face for AW15. A classic image to the collection was a hunchbacked model, seen grasping tightly to a suede brown oversized clutch bag, bringing a story and emotion to the collection. It was about fitting in and each model held a essence of personality to the collection. Overall, it shows big things are ahead for Galliano and how himself for Margiela is creating a whole new fresh approach, an exciting movement for the fashion house.
Paris Fashion Week: GIVENCHY AUTUMN/WINTER 2015
Cast out alone onto the isolated streets of South America desperately pining to become a part of the Chola Gang of Girls - who were individually strutting their stuff, with plenty of attitude, down the dusty sidewalk - was how everyone felt whilst watching the Givenchy AW15 Show at Paris Fashion Week. However, these Chola Girls weren’t dressed in the typical high-waisted beige trousers, tight tops, and flannel shirts, instead they were clad in Victorian style attires of rich materials with eccentric detail. Contrasting to the elegance of designer Riccardo Tisci’s designs, there was the captivating facial jewelry on each model; bringing to mind the specific Chola look, whilst at the same time persuading us that we were extravagant characters in a Jane Austen novel. Tisci has recalled that he was intrigued by these Latin American street gangs, ‘Chola’, who classify themselves into a group where fierce facial piercings, thin-highly-pencilled eyebrows and hair slicked into baby curls around the face, is what you would be expected to just get used to. On the complete other end of the spectrum, Tisci is obsessed with Victoriana (Victorian evocative designs) and was always afraid to use it in his collections. So, finally inspired to experiment with his ideas, he created this intergenerational time warp and made it into a perfect reality; in which everyone at his show was privileged enough to witness just how wonderfully he pulled it off. And, named by Vogue: ‘“Chola Victorian”’, who Tisci called the ‘“boss of the gang”’, it evidently caught on. It was a loud breath-taking line-up, in which Tisci filled with cleverly cut, expertly tailored and eccentrically designed beautiful clothing. His Victorian Gangster girls; the two polar opposites remarkably fitting together, wore lavish dresses and skirts in contrasting textures of velvet, chiffon, and silk, with fine mesh detail and cleverly sewed in ruffles at the seams. Although the collection was predominately black, a silken dress that entailed
a peacock feather pattern clearly brought out the wild side of the collection; by introducing some bold and brash colours onto the catwalk. An opulent raccoon fur collar added an element of gothic sophistication to a black trouser suit, with a nipped-waist tailcoat, which most definitely increased the allure of dressing to the nines. The most Victorian-like design of them all, was a beautiful cream velvet dress which had adopted a fair yellow tinge to it. Adding to the superiority and contrasting with the girl gang facial features, was a staple cropped fur jacket: left open to show off Tisci’s magnificent detail and tailoring. The dress involved carefully crafted sheer chiffon ruffling from the waist upwards and running up onto the models left shoulder, bringing to mind an overgrown rose vine; beautiful yet uncontrollable. Tisci also included the classic gangster bomber jacket into his collection, but put his own wacky twist on it by creating it out of fur with an extravagant fringe detailing. The shoes that Tisci designed were chunky heels in a defiant velvet or leather, which kept within the distinct boundaries of the two themes. Although his clothing designs on the models were striking and fascinating, there was a slight indication that the incredible facial jewellery could take this away and steal the show with its extreme pull; the jewels of “runway magic” presented us with a charmed fantasy full of arresting jet, silver and aquamarine. Adorned upon the models were these perfectly placed exotic crystals and diamonds, which shone out and caught our attention. With obsidian draped from their earlobes, long-gone teardrops made of pearls and rubies, and septum’s laden with miniature emerald chandeliers, it was extremely obvious that Tisci had got his inspiration from these ‘Chola Gangs’ and gone wild with it. He is well known for catching his audience’s eye, and he definitely did just that- and more. While Tisci has been highly commended for his clever combination of two diverse styles, there has been a lot of controversy towards it: his show has been critiqued for suggesting inappropriate cultural references towards these gangs. “Chola” originates from the Aztecan word for “mutt” and was first used to describe Mexican immigrants in a rude
and insulting way. In the 1960’s, Gangs soon claimed it as their own, and it was passed on to describe Mexican-American gang women who dressed or looked a certain way (gelled hair, flannel shirts, beige trousers and dramatic dark makeup). The fact that this word is continued to be used seems to be entirely derogatory in its own way- to those who are not used to gang culture- but it is what it is and is not an offence to them. However, Tisci has been criticised for taking it a step too far, and whilst innocently taking inspiration from these “Chola gang girls”, he cast all of his models in what was, predominantly, a racist way. Although he may not have done this with any bad intentions in mind, the whole show was full of white models acting as these “ghetto” girls, and according to Refinery29 it sent the message: “Even though it is hopefully inadvertent, is that baby hairs can look 'chic' on white girls, but are still 'hood' on Latina and Black girls." Though there is a brewing storm on this sensitive topic, the big issue here is not necessarily the fact that the “Chola” image was portrayed at the show, but the fact that this image will be a new trend that is entirely taken out of its already ‘flawed’ context. And, this trend will all be due to Givenchy having such a huge influence over the fashion world: Refinery29 continued by writing that "we will see this exact look -- face jewels, baby hairs, and all -replicated countless times in advertising campaigns and photo shoots," proving how easily cultural identities can be lost on upcoming fashion, fame, and fortune. As women, we use fashion and beauty as a way of expressing ourselves, therefore putting our vulnerability on the line. But, when this expression of self-belief is made by women who are not necessarily accepted into the world due to the colour of their skin, and then are not included in the industry of their exploitation, it is not fair for them to become a simple ‘trend’ that will come and go. Regardless of the huge dispute over his collection, Tisci most certainly gave us a magnificent performance of which will, no doubt, be a hard to top. But, we hope that he, and all the other designers out there, will learn from the troubles that this racial inappropriate show caused, and either: think twice before they include this type of controversy in their new collection, or do so with the original trendsetters or their racial doubles.
When London Fashion Week rolls up, all focus is feeling the British fever. The biggest names all working, running and scheduling their latest collection. Even though Britain is well known for its heritage and honour of its history, they are also a nation that thrives on the new and alternative. Ones to watch is the first and exciting place to see the very best in new and innovative UK, and International, design talent. This provides a showcase for the best in creative design newcomers.
During my chaotic time in London running from show to show, cruising the designer showrooms, people watching the Somerset House; The vibe is vast becoming a mini festival of bloggers, photographers and pseudo-celebrities such as the majority of the members of Made in Chelsea, who look just as impeccable in the flesh as they do on TV, there have been the Top Five new designers that have caught my eye and ones I am very excited to see progress in the future.
TO WA TCH
‘There is little success where there is little laughter’ -Andrew Carnegie This fun infused womenswear brand is infected with playfulness and eccentricity that comes from the child within that all of us share. Charlotte Yamada’s creations are thee clash of cultures; with her London born yet Tokyo raised background. Yamada has put tongue-incheek humour into 3D form with her latest collection that has loud, in your face colours and pop symbols of gold chains and wet-look retro plastics. This playful brand is designed for the ladies who are young forever, intellectual, confident; the girls who have never lost the child within them and isn’t afraid to show it. With the fashion world getting increasingly bigger and the lines defining certain trends are blurred, wanting to keep it young and fresh is imminent. Therefore CHEEKLDN mash up of youth and sophistication, playfulness and seriousness. The cheeky girls are going to be in focus. A twist on the Chanel-inspired mini suit jackets, blinged-up takes on the bomber jackets and our classic outerwear with a twist is soon to brighten up all our wardrobes.
The beautiful aspect of fashion is that it is ever changing, people and fashion aren’t willing to be pigeon-holed into a singularity and neither is this article. Moving from the young and playful to the elegant and luxurious in Huishan Zang. His work has been recognised through different spectrums and I feel this name will only get better and bigger. Qingdao born Zhang left his hometown at seventeen and has spent time in New Zealand and Paris before he settled down in London. His creative talent was recognised and he was hand picked to spend his third year at the House of Dior – working in leather goods and Dior’s Haute Couture Atelier. With its extreme wet look jeggings on the legs of these models it gives an edge to a classic and uniquely detailed collection. The blend of chunky knitwear with contemporary twists; dresses with different textured panels have been so sophistically done that it can be worn by all. This designer has a beautiful understanding of chic luxury and bold statement pieces. 70
This Shanghai born designer understands the silhouette extending beyond the body, her label being based on the developing new ideas of aesthetic appreciation. She represents the modern women with the modern lifestyle and attitude that has a high demand for comfort and flair.
C. J. YAO
Yao was the first runner up of Asian Young Fashion Designers Contest in Singapore Fashion Week 2006 and this was before she went to London to study Fashion Design. Her catwalk show was filled with refreshing changes, with the appearance of two models walking down it in sync and a model accompanied with a child model. This caused an excited exclamation around the room. I feel this subtle show of theatricality has stemmed from her stint at Alexander McQueen. Her asymmetrical, layered panelling and colour palette all make this collection an amazing knock out for those who long to layer properly and with great style.
EMILIO DE LA MORENA
“Don’t mess with this woman; she will have you wrapped around her little finger in no time.” -Emilio De La Moreana This tells us of their ideal client and this describes all women at the very minimum 50% of the time. You hear all these powerful sayings of the scorned woman, which in this case is a strong and independent woman that see what she wants and gets it; no ands, ifs, or buts. Emilio’s cut and fabrics all exude elegantly refine and provokingly sexy. His collection of off the shoulder gowns draws the eye to the woman’s shoulders and neck; well known erogenous areas. And highlights them with his shimmering fabrics and soft velvets. He has worked for the likes of Jonathan Saunders and Rafael Lopez. His passion lies in the exploratory process of new techniques and clothes construction. This combination has led to the updated cocktail looks with modernized obscure craftsmanship techniques. His pieces will make the wearer feel an empowering sensual femininity – and what woman doesn’t want that?
And no London Fashion Week ones to watch list would be complete without Marko Mitanovski’s collection being the finale. London based Serbian designer wow-ed the crowd with his sculptural avant garde pieces, not only were the clothes intrdicated constructed, but the head and face pieces where a sight that wouldn’t go amiss on Lady Gaga’s eccentric style. And the lady herself is a big fan of his! He covered his models in head to toe black paint with the finale model being head to toe white.
This designer has the promises of a new Alexander McQueen and I am incredibly excited to see what he has in store for us.
Burberry AW 2015
Somerset House played host to London Fashion week 2015. A place for designers and models to indulge in the latest trends and upcoming talent. With brands ranging from luxury to high street, the world's fashion elite finally reveled their works to the UK’s fashion capital; the very trends that are going to fill our wardrobes in the coming months. London Fashion Week drew to a close after five days, and Mess Magazine was there to witness it all. We are proud to share our first-hand inside knowledge straight from London’s catwalks and what excites us about Autumn 2015. It was clear to Mess that the designers purposefully experimented with the trends of different decades. Burberry, Vivienne Westwood and Jonathan Saunders championed the late sixties and seventies revival in their collections offering a variety of suede tassels, accordion pleat inserts and mirrored embroideries. They made it obvious that we are not going to be reaching for our skinny jeans anytime soon. The brands attracted an impressive front row despite the Fashion week coinciding with the Oscars. Burberry managed to score model veterans Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell alongside ‘it’ models and pals Cara Delavigne and Jordan Dunn. Cara, who is currently concentrating on her acting career, sat out London Fashion week this year however, still showed her support for the brand by arriving dressed head to toe in Burberry’s latest collection. The Burberry showcase was staged in a gigantic marquee set squarely in Perk’s Field, Kensington Palace Gardens. As the lights
Gareth Pugh AW 2015 /16
came up and the models began to walk, there was an inescapable bohemian feel to Christopher Bailey’s (designer and CEO of Burberry) Autumn/Winter collection. The relaxed and laid-back ensembles from the collection were a stark contrast to Burberry’s typical style and Mess Magazine finds the new softness to the brand rather refreshing. Bailey took inspiration from the old folk crafts of British society. This led to his vision of “patchwork, pattern and prints”. Ponchos with spike-heeled fringe boots suggest that Winter Bohemia is something to be aiming for this autumn. Vivienne Westwood was also inspired by the same concept of labored textiles; she too had a bohemian feel to her collection. Stating that the ‘red label girl’ is inspired by temples, mosques, interiors and traditional dress; the Autumn/Winter collection features woven fabrics, silks and rich velvets. Although her southern English heritage shines through more in her designs than in Burberry, the winter Bohemia was still a prominent figure in the collection. The showcase also revealed a revival of her greatest hits, a confidence in her design that has been somewhat lost in the recent years including a long sleeved black silk gown. Vivienne Westwood, also tied a strong political message to her latest collection encouraging consumers to ‘vote green.’
Vivienne Westwood AW 2015/ 16
This concept of fashion being thought provoking was presented in Gareth Pugh’s red-blooded London Fashion week comeback. Unlike Burberry and Dame Westwood’s collections, Pugh’s collection was equally gothic as it was harrowing. The showcase set amongst the Renaissance paintings of the V&A museum began with women progressively hacking off her blonde hair before smearing her face and body with red paint that outlined the Saint George cross. The image largely mimicked battle preparation. The models then walked down the catwalk in a red light, with their faces similarly streaked with the Saint George cross. The focus was therefore placed on the silhouettes of Pugh’s models that drew the onlooker’s attention to the theme of Gareth Pugh collection. The huge furry hats with chain chin straps, the over the knee boots that were reminiscent of cavalry riding boots, choppy hair inspired by Queen Elizabeth I. The entire collection was a tribute to Britannia. Chaos, darkness, and ambitiousness all came together in this showcase for a warrior- esque look on the catwalk. Gareth Pugh other than designing a truly beautiful collection also left his audience shaken. Continuing to prove the power of fashion.
INTERVIEW WITH... NICO SANTUCCI
Nico is a man that has incredibly perceptive mind towards lucrative and creative restoration projects! This is his most insightful interview to date with our very own Lucy Creber finding the questions in between all the answers that has been asked and everyone is thinking! It is known your first successful entrepreneur endeavour was your taxi restoration project. I want to go back to your model days, it was the first taste you had of the industry after all! What were your favourite aspects of modeling? I loved the fact that I could express myself on a runway or through a photograph and enjoyed the power that it allowed me through simply a physical expression. Although generally, I definitely felt outclassed in the modeling world as most of the guys were incredibly more handsome than myself. That’s what directed me to use my mind and get behind the camera – to become more creative as a designer / art director. My focus became creating an environment versus starring in the environment. You’ve showed through your architectural and interior flair that you have a very creative mind. Were there any photo shoots that you did, or see, that have stood out in that aspect? Why? Probably nothing as amazing as the Architectural Interior photo shoot at the incredible glass cottage that I restored in 2012 it was originally constructed by William Randolph Hearst decades ago for his “mistress” Marion Davies in Beverly Hills. It is an incredible architectural piece and one of the most unique environments I’ve ever had the pleasure of restoring. It’s all glass with a unibody steel frame that supports more than 12,000 lbs of glass. One of the amazing elements of the Glass Cottage is the fact that it’s placed within a wooded forest in the heart of Beverly Hills and the roof actually accordions open at 45° creating an entirely indoor outdoor experience. There wasn’t a day I was at the cottage that I did not feel Mr. Hearst’s presence within the environment. It was a remarkable sensation and one that I felt honored to absorb during my time there. It was probably one of the most unforgettable experiences of my life!
Who are your most influential (and non traditional!) mentors you’ve had through out your life? Why? I think one of the greatest influences on my design career has been Bucky Fuller, who was groundbreaking in his development of the geodesic dome -- a spherical dome made of equal parts that are assembled much like an erector set. I had the pleasure of constructing an enormous geodesic dome at a Beverly Hills mansion in 2009. It became the dramatic entry and center point which later became known as Mansion 11. Every day during the construction my lead foreman “Hoss” reminded me of him studying under Bucky, and I was honored to take part in something with his inspiration. Geodesic domes have always been close to my heart based on their simplicity and remarkable appeal when within the sphere. There are many other designers who have inspired me but none as uniquely as Bucky Fuller. He was more of an inspiration than a mentor but nonetheless a great impact on the way I see design... In many of your projects I’ve noticed you use key words that link them all, give it the definitive Nico feel: Sexy, Lost Art and History. Why are these qualities so important? How would you personally define them? I think the Nico feel really embodies many things. I believe it’s incredibly important to recognize timeless elements in almost all of my designs because objects that are timeless are often comfortable....they make us feel comforted by the fact that we recognize, have seen, felt or touched before and therefore it creates a comfortable environment. History allows us something to talk about in an environment, something to potentially reminisce about and something to communicate about with our guests or clients... Sexy is often intangible but very palatable in many of the environments that I create. Sexy is about fearlessness in design that provokes the imagination of people who experience it. Combined with an eclectic, timeless space to allow people to feel comfortable while provoking their senses of what could be.... With all the projects you have going on your still searching for new ones! The motivation and drive you have is pretty incredible. Unfortunately because there are only 24 hours in the day it isn’t enough to give all the personal touch. You’ve stated in other interviews that you get rid of the projects that aren’t appealing anymore. How do you decide which ones to stop working on? When do you know its time to let go? It’s been my experience that some of the smaller projects can often take up as much or more time than the grandest projects, so unless it embodies something that the world will recognize, many of the smaller projects end up on the cut list. I make an effort not to do things just for the money. It’s absolutely about the love and I’m very blessed to be in this position... There seems to be nothing creatively that you can not make lucrative! What is your ultimate goal? The beauty of being creative is that the process is lucrative in itself and any monetary rewards are simply cause and effect of the project. I see myself spending more time growing spiritually and internally and less time doing things for monetary compensation, the true reward is the enjoyment I get out of each project. I definitely see going around the world on the Aviator motoryacht I recently completed as one of the culminations of a childhood dream that has come to life...
Top 10 Freshmess Bloggers PRISCILA DINIZ Belo Horizonte born blogger Diniz has a collection of wonderful wigs. This statement isn’t common for bloggers, well the ones I’ve come across, but that is one of the many unique and interesting factoids about her and her style. Diniz’s blogging story began when she lost a whopping 70kg, not only for her health, but for her love of style and clothes that she truly enjoys to wear. She has a strong desire to be inspirational and follow her own path which is reflected in her versatile, innovative and edgy fashion sense. Her blog, Look at Me BR, is extremely visual and seems to be based on the principal that a picture can say more than a thousand words, take just one look at her photography skills and you will see. She is an empowering and inspiring women that believes in the power of self-styling rather than latching onto leading label trends.
KIKO CAGAYAN I am incredibly excited to introduce MESS’ first Philippine born Japan based blogger! After a gap year in Japan spending seven months working and traveling, I came to greatly admire the cultures sense of style, aesthetics and uses of layering. It is such a different vibe to the Western fashion sense I had become accustomed to. Even Kiko stands out amongst that general crowd with his laid back western flair mixed with the detailed eastern extravagance. His style ranges from casual chic to military to hipster to laid back grunge. His eclectic fashion range captured my attention and pushes Kiko into our top 10 FRESHMESS bloggers. We love a good MESS and nothing is more creative than a diverse fashion sense that isn’t afraid to go beyond the box.
ELLE-MAY LECKENBY Elle-May’s degree in photography and design shines through with her creative and artistic use of light, composition and on-location shooting. She uses her environment to compliment her look of the day with great effect. These artistic endeavors are what brought Elle-May’s blog to my attention, that and her quirky yet laid back fashion flair, have placed her in this article. She has a knack for portraying her fun and bubbly personality with her blog posts, making her writing seem like an extract from her own personal diary. She talks about her lifestyle, goes into deep and meaningful tangents and shares her songs of the week. This gives us a well-rounded insight into not only her fashion sense, but also a sense of her beyond fashion. This happy and creative nature has a wonderful MESS-Y quality to it that appeals both to us, and all of her other varied followers.
GEORG MALLNER Even though Georg’s passion lies within fashion photography his normcore monochrome London looks caught my eye. The stark contrast he creates between his vibrant naturalistic look and the plain background on which they are painted allow his work to jump to the foreground of FRESHMESS bloggers. His use of shadowing and the surrounds of nature show off his skill in creating unique photographs using minimal aspects from the collection he is presenting. The mix of this and his out of the box fashion sense are what has led to his immense popularity over social media, and have shown us at MESS that Georg Mallner is a natural born blogger.
ALESSIO CONVITO Stylish, elegant and sophisticated. These are the words that came to mind when I first came across this male blogger. His fashion sense is understated yet undeniable. But what makes Alessio stand alone, or even above dare I say, is that not only does he have a passion for his style and photography but he stands for something bigger than just great style. He is deaf, and he wants to highlight overcome the limitations within the fashion industry. His aim isn’t jto just inspire people with just his style, or his great finds, or even his stunning photography skills but to start a revolution. He wants to show there truly isn’t any restrictions on fashion, whether you are handicapped or not. This is in fact a growing phenomena in showcasing beauty outwith the norm. Fashion and its bloggers are getting outside the box and us at MESS support this wholeheartedly. Alessio’s style and statement land him in our top 10 FRESHMESS bloggers.
LUKASZ KULETA What is apparent when looking at Lukasz’s blog is that he takes great pride in his authenticity as a man of fashion. His styles are a collage of inspiration he gains walking the streets of Warsaw, and his photo’s show influence from many walks of life. This is reflective in the landscapes all shot in an urban environment; the ultimate collection of differential cultures. He shows the looks as they would be seen in actual day to day life which adds a unique quality to his look as a whole. It is clear that he believes in his fashion sense and his independence from mainstream looks that dominate so much of todays fashion world, and this is proven by the fact that he is the main stylist to the polish brad ‘Lavard’.
LOLITA MASGUTOVA Compared to the rest of these bloggers Lolita’s blog is just a baby. But even though it is in its beginning stages she is like a burst of fashion fresh air. Her effortless elegance and sophistication is unparalleled even amongst the very best of bloggers. Her blog not only shares her keen eye for beauty trends but also picks up on the latest wanted accessories and at the same time showcases her everyday style through effective imagery. Lolita is what FRESHMESS is all about. Finding new and creative talent and giving it an international stage to shine on. We pride ourselves on showing the best of new and upcoming talent and I am happy to share this bloggers latest fashion-based ventures with you all.
FAISSAL YARTAA Moroccan born and bred blogger has a nice mix of dapper, laid back chic and has a brilliant talent for beautiful graphic textile designs. The last comment might be outwith the norm, but there is something fascinating about a menswear blogger not afraid to experiment with textiles. And go with bold ones at that. This makes him stand out amongst the other male bloggers; this skill makes his casual laid back style stand out and aesthetically interesting. His blog posts take a keen interest in European based brands, and he gives informative background information on the brands, which shows he has a keen eye on unique or upcoming brands. This sort of passion for individuality is what makes Faissal a perfect addition to the top 10 FRESHMESS section and we are glad to share his style and journey with you.
VIKTORIA TEMNOVA Fashion Photographer, Blogger and Vegetarian. Those are Viktoria’s top three passions that she expresses through her blog and tumblr. Unlike the previous bloggers in the top 10 she has a set fashion style; dark, edgy and normcore grunge. This style has a wide range of combinations that are starkly beautiful. Her bright red hair and hipster black glasses are the ultimate fashion accessories to this style she has created. What makes Viktoria’s interpretation of this style unique is that she isn’t afraid to use bright colours. I love her uses of on location shoots; the urban landscapes, autumn parks, granite or metal buildings and every now and then she surprises us with a block colored background. These compliment beautifully with her fashion sense and she makes use of the natural light catered to her environment; city light.
NIKA HUK This freelance interpreter blogger from Ukraine has a Normcore sophistication sense of style. In her blog she gives in depth visual analysis of current trends, with examples from numerous different designers to back up her claims. This along with her fresh style brought her to my attention. Nika gets into different trends and goes with it. She honors consistency yet keeps it contemporary. This fascination with styling within certain trends is interesting rather than restricting her classic sense of style. This is what put in our top 10 bloggers. Being beyond the box is always exciting, always brilliant, but there is something in bloggers giving themselves mini projects that brings out unique creativity within stagnant trends.
Camille Elphick Tell us a little something about your brand or how you started, just basically the beginning. Okay! So I studied shoe design at the London collage of Fashion, and I was interning at the time for Nicholas Kirkwood, Victoria Webster and Donna Karan and while interning at Charlotte Olympia, that was when I produced a graduate collection which got more press than I anticipated. This was ‘Sweet’ themed. Oh my god yes I love them! (been shown the pez shoes) And so yeah that was the start of them. Those shoes, got put into production. So I met with net-a-porter and thought I would just go for it. Then I found a factory in Italy and that’s how it all begun.
his wife, she lives in New York. They are such a lovely family. So we collaborated to create unique prints to go onto my shoes. One pair had playing cards on the back and these girls are slightly…. naughty on the back of the cards. It’s called the Royal Flush. Alright! Naughty girl cards! I like that. And then there is black cats running around the shoe, the stilettos. They were quite popular. They are just really fun shoes. There’s lucky sevens and they sold quite a lot.
I love those shoes so much. I started with a lucky themed collection. Lots of prints and I collaborated with an american artist called Kent Christianson.
Is that to go with the card theme as well? No its another theme, its this shoe. This literally has the number seven on them. Then there’s the disco flats. We brought them back again this season to keep them as a classic, because everyone seems to like them! It was sort of, even I wanted to go out in them evenings [after work] but still wanted to be dressed up.
Oh okay, interesting, mental note to research on that one. Yes! So I met him a couple of years ago, and I met
Yes… like to be comfortable… like a comfortable disco? Yeah! And they literally change colour.In the dark you
could be wearing them and they look black and then in the light they could turn from turquoise to purple. This is because….? It’s material that I found. There’s the disco stiletto, disco flat and the collection has now grown this season. More classics, the classic with a twist and then there are prints again by Kent Christianson. So that’s how it all began ; raining cats and dogs. I love that 8 shoe. Is that part of the raining cats and dogs? The raining cats snap dogs are up there. And the print is printed onto velvet this season so it is all about the textures, the metallics and there’s also the cats with umbrellas. I’ve got the cats and dogs one. And so the weather theme continues. So yeah with the 8s that you spotted there a minus age, cause they are like a snow boot. Oh yeah. Thats very appropriate for here. Yeah.. yesterday was pouring down with rain so we kept saying it was raining shoes. And there’s raindrops, there’s evening sandals, laser cut booties, there’s arrows, everyday arrows, in every direction. The over the knee boots have been quite popular. The silver boots are very popular as well with the golden arrows. We have rain boots with zip up front called ‘Zip me Up’ . We’ve got lightening bolts and a bit of wind over there and we are trying to expand the classic range over there. So flats with hearts on the front and then there’s the high heel evasion and then we have the flat cats or the pumps with cats on them on the sole, like cat heels. Did you have a cat when you were a kid? Is there something that draws you to cats? I understand you’ve called it raining cats and dogs, is that just because of the expression? Oh no. They are on the soles of them, in fact even my logo is a cat shape. So my initials makes a little cat face. But yea I do love animals and I do have a cat and a dog. Clearly. And then my mum has a pet website. She has a pet website?! This doesn’t really have much to do with the logo. But i suppose it is sort of the inspiration behind it, i am surrounded by it. So what is the pet website? Is it like a blog? No no! It’s a website its called pets pajamas. They are a lifestyle website for your pets. This season I am quite excited about the pez shoes coming back. I’m now going to be working with them to create a capsule collection for pez shoes. Have you had any requestes to use your shoe on anyone exciting? The girl from Clear Bandit. The Man Repeller. Oh that is good blogger interest! Yeah. I’ve had quite a good response, it’s girly with a twist.
moscow fashion week LATE MARCH AND IT’S SNOWING. THERE IS NOTHING WRONG ABOUT WEARING FUR FOR SPRING IF YOU LIVE IN RUSSIA. LAST YEAR I WORE A CROP TOP WITH A SMALL JACKET ON THE 27TH OF MARCH (DURING THE FASHION SEASON IN MOSCOW). WHEN I GOT OUT OF MY TAXI, IT WAS SNOWING, IT DIDN'T SURPRISE ME AT ALL. I WASN'T PREPARED FOR THAT KIND OF WEATHER LAST SEASON, BUT I KNEW WHAT TO EXPECT NEXT TIME. THIS YEAR IT’S GETTING WORSE. THE WEATHER IS REALLY COLD AND IT’S STILL SNOWING. HOW TO SURVIVE? STREET STYLE PHOTOGRAPHERS, I FEEL BAD FOR YOU. MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK RUSSIA STARTED ON 26TH MARCH WITH BESSARION’S FASHION SHOW. I WALKED IN AND I WASN'T EVEN SURPRISED - FASHION SHOW WAS RIGHT INSIDE THE EXHIBITION HALL OF MANEGE. (BESSARION IS FAMOUS FOR HIS INTERESTING LOCATIONS AND EXCITING SHOWS). COLLECTION WAS CLASSY. IT WAS ALL DARK AND I FELL IN LOVE WITH FUR GLOVES. BUT IT WAS ONLY THE BEGINNING OF THE FASHION WEEK. I TRIED TO LOOK REALLY BRIGHT EVERY DAY. MY STYLE IS DIFFERENT FROM OTHERS. I AM NOT TRYING TO PROVE SOMETHING TO THE SOCIETY, I AM JUST BEING MYSELF. I CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT PLATFORMS AND WIGS. I WORE A DEEP BLUE WIG ON THE FIRST DAY AND A DARK BROWN WIG ON THE FOURTH. FALL SEASON SHOWED US LESS COLLECTIONS THAN A PREVIOUS ONE. I EXPECTED TO SEE SOME BUT ONLY 3 SHOWS REALLY IMPRESSED ME. I FELL IN LOVE WITH DIMA NEU’S FASHION SHOW. HIS SHOW WAS PURE ART. IT WASN'T EVEN ABOUT THE CLOTHES. IT WAS ABOUT INSPIRATION AND IMAGE OF THE WHOLE BRAND. THE FINAL CATWALK MADE ME SPEECHLESS. A MORE DESIGNERS.
WOMAN THREW AWAY ALL THE ROSE PETALS FROM THE RUNWAY WHICH WERE PLACED THERE BEFORE THE BEGINNING OF THE SHOW WHILE SHE WAS DANCING AND AT THE FINAL AND THE MOST EXCITING MOMENT SHE TOOK THE CURTAIN AND IT FELL OFF
- ALL MODELS WERE STANDING IN A PYRAMID ON
ON THE OTHER DAY I FELL IN LOVE WITH JULIA CAESAR’S FASHION SHOW. HER BRAND - 075 IS ONE MOSCOW. FROM HER FIRST BLACK COLLECTION TO TRADITIONAL RUSSIAN THEME. SLOGANS AND WORDS IN RUSSIAN AS THE MAIN PRINT ARE REALLY ANNOYING THIS YEAR, BUT JULIA IS AN EXCEPTION. SHE CREATED A GREAT MENSWEAR COLLECTION WHICH IS GOING TO BE ABSOLUTELY SUCCESSFUL IN SALES AND IT WILL MAKE HER EVEN MORE POPULAR. SHE MADE HER CAREER IN ALMOST 3 YEARS. SHE STARTED FROM TYPICAL BLACK OUTFITS AND CAME TO HER TRADITIONAL STYLE. WHAT DO I LIKE ABOUT HER? SHE NEVER COPIES AND SHE ALWAYS BRINGS INTO FASHION HER OWN FRESH AND BRIGHT IDEAS. OF THE MOST ICONIC CLOTHES BRANDS IN
THE THIRD SHOW I FELL IN LOVE WITH WAS PIROSMANI. PIROSMANI IS A WELL KNOWN RUSSIAN BRAND WHICH HAS IT’S OWN STYLE. SILHOUETTES ARE NOT SHARP AND COLORS ARE MOSTLY BLACK AND GREY. PIROSMANI’S MEN AND WOMEN ARE SELF CONFIDENT, THEY CAN WEAR WHATEVER THEY WANT, BUT THEY ALWAYS LOOK PERFECT EVEN IF THEIR OUTFITS ARE A LITTLE BIT GRUNGE OR PUNK. IT FEELS LIKE PIROSMANI IS GOING TO BE ON NYFW SOON, BECAUSE IT DESERVES MORE ATTENTION. RUSSIAN FASHION IS REALLY INTERESTING. SOME DESIGNERS ARE JUST SHOWING OFF - IN RUSSIA OSCAR DE LA RENTA, DOLCE & GABBANA & MOSCHINO IDEAS, BUT SOME OF THEM ARE REALLY TALENTED. EACH YEAR RUSSIAN DESIGNERS SHOW THEIR LATEST COLLECTIONS. I GET IMPRESSED BY HOW FAST OUR FASHION INDUSTRY IS GROWING. OUR FASHION TECHNOLOGIES ARE FAR FROM ITALIAN OR AMERICAN, BUT WE ARE WORKING REALLY HARD TO BE ON THE HIGHEST LEVEL. THAT’S WHY I LOVE RUSSIA - WE NEVER GIVE UP. THERE ARE A LOT OF DESIGNERS WHO STEAL
Selected Begin Desire Fashion Show If you still think that Polish fashion scene has nothing in common with innovative fashion, you might be wrong. Last month, Mess Magazine reporters attended #HUSHSELECTED Begin Desire Gala where we were able to see final collections from top 3 designers – Joanna Hawrot, Luiza Jacob and Gosia Sobiczewska. Who surprised, inspired and won? Let's summarize that evening. Hush Warsaw is annual fashion event that brings attention of thousands of buyers, press representatives and fashion-forward people, that look for the most creative clothes designed locally. Every year, the best up and coming fashion designers from Poland showcase their projects at National Stadium in Warsaw.Additionally, in this edition, we've been able to attend HUSHSELECTED #BeginDesire gala that comes afterwards the event and see which designers have been chosen and won prestigious prizes. Joanna Hawrot and her super feminine collection won the first prize. The other 2 winners: Luiza Jacob with her print collection from Dream Nation brand, and Gosia Sobiczewska that is co-founder and designer of Est by Es represented relatively similar level of creativity, shown in particularly original way.
Est by Es
Each designer has her own individual style that is strictly related to inspiration that stands behind their visions. Gosia Sobiczewska was inspired by Martini brand (the official sponsor of the event) and the diversity of taste, colour and complexity of each beverage. Her collection perfectly shows the energy of big city; its multicultural background, every day fast life, pressure and contrast between modern and
ancient architecture. The silhouettes seem to flow on the runway, the fabrics such as silk were chosen to show the beauty of human body and emphasize the lightness and flexibility. Sporty looks combined with seemingly natural elegance and chicness, give a glance to what Est by Es brand is all about – comfort and girliness. Luiza Jacob from Dream Nation was inspired by Asian culture, architecture, street style and manga. Her prints seem to naturally express her own „ Asian creative Mess”. Collection is full of big pixelated prints such as printed faces (Prada style) and a mixture of tribal and exotic prints.
Joanna Hawrot won the prize for the best upcoming designer. Collection full of ultra feminine lace pieces, oversized cocktail dresses with unique form and boyish wide pants, gave us a little inside of how real femme fatale should look like. We can proudly admit that we have connections with all of the designers and worked with them before the final gala. To check out the editorials with clothes from Gosia, Luiza and Joanna visit messmag.com!
E T I R U O V A F OUR
Fashion equals designers. Designers equal Reputation. Reputation equals popularity. Acclaimed fashion is practically taken over by Milan, London, Paris, and New York, so it’s obvious why we don’t hear much from the other places. But, with Poland mostly known for its food over fashion, something needs to change for the world to recognise the diverse talent that’s currently being overlooked. There are many fashion designers in Poland, both old and new, who have the remarkable ability to create such exquisite designs. Their recognition throughout the world needs expanding profoundly, concluding in a future where heading over to their Fashion Week, which has only been up and running since 2011, doesn’t sound entirely unheard of.
AW ‘13/ ‘14
BOHOBOCO One of the most well-known brands around Poland is Bohoboco. It’s a “contemporary fashion concept” that was created by two male designers: Michal Gilbert Lach and Kamil Owczarek. We first heard of them in November 2009, when their textiles studio opened, which enabled them to make their designs and create their clothes on mass and in a suitable environment. The brand then then came into the public eye in October 2010, at the grand opening of their first boutique in Gdynia, at the Klif modern shopping centre, which started off their expansion. They soon upped their status, gaining more and more customers, which allowed them to take part in all three fashion weeks in Poland from 2011-2012. Their AW11 fashion show collection consisted of many designs that featured either a tight buckle closing, a skinny belt, or a robe tie, therefore showing off the models tiny waists. Their SS12 collection, put together by Marcin Kempskim, was much more slick and contemporary with short black dresses contrasting with the pale dinner jackets with openings at the back, and their AW12 collection was classy full coats vs. detailed black shimmering jumpers and skirts. Following on from this success of parading their designs, in October 2012, they opened another boutique in another shopping centre ‘Stary Browar’, in Poznan. They’re continuing to grow: two more boutiques in fashion malls, an online store and new and inspiring collections each season, and we will be most definitely glad to see them around a whole lot more.
GOSIA BACZYNSKA Another Polish designer, Gosia Baczynska, has come very far in her journey to parade off her brand, which is respectively named after herself. She was able to show off her AW15 collection at the Paris Fashion Week Show; an absolute roaring success, which the Mess Magazine team were fortunate enough to witness. Although she is known for her exquisite clothing inspiring around the world, she has an even more inspiring story herself. In 1989, there was the symbolic end of communism in Poland and the rest of central Europe, therefore the year of freedom. Baczynska, also known as the “fashion tsarina”, is included within those people who arrived in the sad, dark and gloomy place at this time in Poland’s history, and made something of herself. Now, twenty years later, it’s “Gosia Baczynska who creates history”: the faith behind the fashion we love. In 1997, she created her company with no background knowledge of business, or any experience in making it in a business alone, but she pursued her talent and gained further interest amongst buyers, investors and clients. The most magical aspect of the whole brand is that she doesn’t draw out what she wants, but she works straight onto the lavish materials, creating her designs from scratch there and then. She is also very personal with her work, and decides when or where it should be shown or who is fortunate enough to wear it: the AW15 fashion show was a privilege to watch, as she doesn’t show off her collection until it is absolutely ready for the public eye, “Nothing is ever enough for me. I always think about what is wrong, what needs to reach perfection. I have fifteen years of experience, but I am always scared not to be good enough.” Her designs have ranged from ethnic to futuristic, and the most recent AW15 collection had an electric feel to it: spider web styled black dresses with netting detail, and plenty of shimmering reflective mesh material giving the jumpers, dresses and flowing skirts a silver tone to them.
AW ‘13/ ‘14
LUKASZ JEMIOL Lukasz Jemiol is one of Poland’s top male designers, who is now well known for his clever designs that radiate purity throughout his store in Warsaw. People will often go there just to see his collection, with its peaceful shades of grey, cream, beige and white, hang elegantly from the white brick walls. They will be able to note the exceptionally tailored, high quality, fabrics which all come together to complete the vastly admired and applauded range. But, Jemiol will then introduce the unusual aspect of sequins, vivacious colours, and metallic embellishments to a few of his humble designs, which spices up the overall feel to the collection as well as the ambience of his shop. His most recent ‘Fashion is Basic’ line consists of neutral tones of grey, white and black for the jeans and jumpers, which promotes stylish comfort. However, these were then contrasted against the sharp electric blue of a perfectly placed cardigan, jacket or scarf, which was both intriguing yet entirely captivating to look at. His SS14 collection persuaded us that red is just as easy to wear as black or white, with his flawlessly matched designs easily incorporating the strong and difficult colour. His collections allow us to see how able he is at effortlessly using a huge range of tones and textures, which is always pulled off and thankfully works to our, and most definitely his, delight.
AW ‘14/ ‘15
MMC STUDIO Designers MMC studio are another brand who have been affected by the challenge of polish fashion, yet come out on top. The duo met at the Academy of Fine Arts, where they then came up with the idea of MMC and pursued it: starting off the brand as a design studio, by dealing with orders for more popular and established Polish brands. Due to being slightly stuck, with designing collections for these prestigious brands, meant that they couldn’t fully express their individual talents and ideas, however it also guaranteed security within the fashion business which unfortunately made it difficult to move on. Then, they took part in many competitions to show off their collections, such as ‘Designer of the Year’ and ‘Smirnoff’, of which helped to expand their cliental, which is when they bravely released the first signature collection under the official name of ‘MMC’. Their basic philosophy behind the brand is to dress ordinary women, not just celebrities, in modern, low-key, minimalistic comfort, yet still extremely stylish. They intend to draw women in with their high quality fabrics and simple designs, instead of with the idea of patterns and bold colours catching their eye, and the AW14/15 collection consisted of just this: low key designs in basic colours, yet entirely sophisticated and chic.
Dress: Nando Feather Jewelry: Konplott
Red velvet Photography: Katarina Hildebrandt Model: Paula Schinschel (Modelwerk) Styling: Lara Packheiser Hair & Make-up: Karina Asmus (Chanel Make-up and Bumble & Bumble Hair Products, Extentions from Verlocke) Hair & Make-up Assistant: Ariane Schuster Retouch: Vagrace.com
Embroidered Body: GLAW, Ring- Konplott Headpiece: Stylists own