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PEOPLE & PROPERTY OF MELBOURNE

OCTOBER 17-23, 2018

THE TRAINER

IN TOWN WITH GAI WATERHOUSE

THE HORSES

SUPERSTITIONS THAT REIGN SUPREME

THE PARTY

POP GOES THE CUSTOMARY BUBBLY

SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

FRANCESCA CUMANI HOW THE ENGLISH ROSE BECAME AUSTRALIA’S OWN

EASTERN


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The editor’s desk

Long before expensive advertising, the Melbourne Cup was the biggest party in town. Melbourne’s population was 125,000 in 1861, and 4000 people flocked to Flemington Racecourse, on mud flats by the Maribyrnong River, for the first Cup. One in 31 Melburnians were there, without Instagram to lure them. Back then, drapers and dressmakers ran out of the fashionable colour of the day, and gossiping journalists reported who wore silk and who sported lesser flourishes. Not much has changed. This edition captures the thrill of the spring racing carnival – still our biggest party. ●

FINE FLOURISH \ A jaunty pocket square completes

TURN HEADS \ A celebrity favourite, Jill Humphries

a suit in the way a hat does for ladies, so don’t head

of Millinery Jill is a master at turning sinews of straw

trackside without one. James Harper’s pocket square is

and reams of ribbon into chic headpieces. This is her

a subtle nod to the neddies. ● davidjones.com

version of the classic boater. ● davidjones.com

THE EDIT SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

OUR COVER \ Thoroughbred expert Francesca Cumani. Photographed by Stephen Ward.

MORE TO LOVE ONLINE Go to domain.com.au/domain-review General inquiries \ 9249 5226 \ editorial@domain.com.au Editor \ Emily Power Deputy editor \ Jessica Dale Picture editor \ Leigh Henningham Senior designer \ Colleen Chin Quan Designer \ Emma Staughton Editorial assistant \ Hailey Coules Managing editor \ Alice Stolz Chief marketing & editorial officer \ Melina Cruickshank Chief executive officer Domain Group \ Jason Pellegrino Real estate sales director \ Mitch Armstrong \ 0438 820 767 mitch.armstrong@domain.com.au

Is your mag missing? Distribution \ 1800 032 472 distribution@domainreview.com.au

REVIEW Published by Domain Group. A Fairfax Media business (ACN 141 396 741). All material is copyright. All significant errors will be corrected as quickly as possible. Distribution numbers, areas and coverage are estimates only.

EASTERN

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WALK THE WALK \ Sashay through The Birdcage in

PHOTO FINISH \ As all entrants in the 55 years

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of Myer Fashions on the Field will attest, every

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little details counts. Olga Berg’s Madelyn Camera

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““I am Sam Hyland ” … and I know my way around a racecourse I had my first ride at 16 at Bendigo on Caulfield

Cup day. My first ride ran third and my second won, a horse called Retrieve. That was really exciting. My dad, Pat Hyland, was a successful jockey. He spent a lifetime in racing riding from the age of 14 to 44, and is part of an elite group of jockeys to win a Grand Slam: the Golden Slipper, Caulfield Cup, Cox Plate and the Melbourne Cup. He retired when I was 15 and bought a property at Clyde. I quickly learned to ride a horse and decided I wanted to be a jockey. I served my apprenticeship with dad and was a middle of the rung jockey – I worked hard and consistently rode winners. But I had a fall when I was 32, fracturing a C1 in my neck and a C7 in my back; I also broke a collarbone and whacked my head. That ended my career. I had a year off, then once I was back on my feet got a gig on racing channel TVN. I worked there for three years hosting country meetings during the week and on Saturday I’d be in the mounting yard giving tips. I then started working for Racing.com doing horseback interviews. I was really lucky in that I had friendships among the jockeys, having done the job with them. For six years I was also Racing Victoria’s trackwalker. It involved a lot of travelling and early mornings, driving all over Victoria, but that came easily to me. We race 363 days a year in Victoria. Trackwalkers drive to the racetrack the night before or morning of a meeting, walk the track and rate it for the day’s races – a good three or four, a soft five or six, for instance. These tracks are raced a lot and show signs of stress, so I’d give an indication of where I thought the best part of the track was on the day. It’s not an exact science. Recently, I also did horseback interviews for Racing Queensland meetings throughout the winter carnival and the Northern Cup series, which was really different. It’s a relaxed atmosphere in Queensland and a really good day at the races. The spring racing carnival is underway and it’s a fantastic time of the year in Melbourne. I’m part of 1116 SEN’s radio coverage for 16 meetings, which is keeping me busy. I’m just a roustabout in horse racing and dabble in whatever’s going. I’m from a racing family, it’s always been my life and I hope it continues to be. ●

As told to

M E G A N H U T S WA IT E ●

Ph o t o

JOHN DONEGAN

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Trainer Chris Waller; the his 200-plus horses across four stables.

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KATE GERAGHTY

great mare Winx is one of

M AT T S T E WA R T

hen the premiership scores are tallied at the end of each racing season, themes are revealed. Racing in Australia’s two biggest cities has been a land of giants for a handful of years now. The only significant new theme when the scores came in at the end of July was that trainers Chris Waller and Darren Weir have become not just bigger and stronger, but bigger and stronger than anyone before them. Amid the deserved celebration of the backstories of both trainers – country hamlet kids who went from zero to hero – their steamrolling success has exposed sores that already existed. Victoria has more than 800 registered horse trainers and two dominators, Weir and Team Hayes. Many trainers, frustrated by slow horses and slow payers, struggled before Weir swaggered onto the landscape. His horses run and win everywhere, from Flemington to Swan Hill. In a bid to keep pace, Team Hayes’ horses go where Weir’s go. Waller, thankfully for those out bush in NSW, is more city-centric, where the effect has been dramatic. Previous giants, like Gai Waterhouse, have been cut in half by Waller, whose dominance on the form guide reads as though a finger got stuck on the “search-and-replace” key. In some cases, Waller’s horses comprise almost entire race-fields in Sydney, particularly staying races. Punters scratch their heads – “Which one?’’ – and stewards hawk tactics. They’re assisted by Waller, who presents them each Saturday with the “grid’’, his take on how his horses might position themselves in the race, making something potentially murky look a little more clear. Both Weir and Waller are in their mid-40s, so are at the peak of their dominance: soft-spoken, tearprone Waller at times self-conscious about crushing his rivals, once saying he felt relieved when the stable had a lean patch; and steel-jawed, unsentimental Weir, far more blinkered, insisting struggling rivals have had the same opportunity, more in most cases, to make good.


In the LAND OF THE GIANTS INSIDE THE STABLES Two trainers will assert their unrivalled dominance this spring carnival. restricted beach use a few years back was the increasing swarm of Weir horses working in the dunes and shallows. Weir merely shrugged, reduced his numbers a little and imported truckloads of sand to his Maldon farm; his own inland beach. One of the great quirks of racing is that the rich and powerful don’t win all of the time. Waller had every runner bar one in a 12-horse field (two were later scratched) at Randwick in early August. In that one race, bookies offered $1.04 about a Waller victory, only for $8 chance Red Alto, trained by Brent Stanley near Bendigo, to withstand the tsunami. On the same weekend in Melbourne,

where they raced at Moonee Valley on the Saturday and Sandown on the Sunday, Weir won just one race; a minor hurdle at Sandown. This spring, the Weir and Waller teams will descend upon Caulfield, Moonee Valley and Flemington, but the world will also arrive – armies from England, Ireland, central Europe and Japan. Weir and Waller, always ahead of the game, have imported foreign battalions of their own. History says that, come carnival time, the superpowers come back to the pack. The higher the stakes, the greater the competition. Spring has always been a pretty good time for giant-slayers. ●

“This spring, the Weir and Waller teams will descend upon Caulfield, Moonee Valley and Flemington, but the world will also arrive ...”

PAT SCALA

The outside-world perception of Waller is that he trains a horse called Winx. But Winx is his shop window. Waller trains an army of more than 200 others from four stables – a core squad at Sydney’s Rosehill, plus barns at Warwick Farm, on the Gold Coast and in Melbourne. Just as Weir wandered into Stawell as a hardworking 25-year-old horse-breaker in the mid1990s, New Zealand-raised Waller gambled his way across the Tasman in 2000 with six horses, a maxed-out credit card, a girlfriend – Stephanie, now his wife and mother of their two children – and a trajectory that has seen him win the last eight Sydney training premierships. Weir, born on a wheat farm at Berriwillock, a Mallee blip on the radar of two big wheat silos and a handful of facades of long-deserted local businesses, has won five straight Melbourne premierships. The numbers reveal that Waller and Weir are bigger than those who dominated before them. The effect has been felt by trainers who are hopelessly out-gunned and under-resourced. Others work out ways to combat them. Training partnerships – with two heads being better than one – have become increasingly popular. Waller trained 189 Sydney winners last season. His horses earned $22 million. He trained 152 the previous season; 169 the one before that. Waterhouse won seven Sydney premierships but only topped the “ton’’ four times. Weir trained 153 Melbourne winners in 2017-18. It’s been a steady progression, increasing season by season from 86 wins to take his first title in 201314. David Hayes and Lee Freedman won scores of premierships but each only once trained 100 winners-plus. Weir’s 250-plus horses in training are scattered around Victoria. Most are at Ballarat, more than 60 at Warrnambool, a growing number at Weir’s new farm near Maldon and dozens of “pre-trainers’’ with other trainers, who have worked out that the best way to combat Weir is to be paid by him. There have been growing pains. Rival Warrnambool trainers believed the catalyst for

Trainer Darren Weir at work at his Ballarat stables.

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Artists Impression

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SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

COVER STORY

A single phone call altered life’s course for racing’s Cumani family. Wo r d s

DA N N Y P OW E R

I

t was late in 2004 when the phone rang in Luca Cumani’s office at his historic Bedford House stables in Newmarket, England. On answering, he tuned in to the raw Australian accent of Paul Makin, a sometimes rambunctious but wealthy professional punter who owned one of Australia’s champion horses of the time, Starcraft. Cumani, a leading horse trainer like his father before him, accepted Makin’s offer to train Starcraft for a campaign in Europe in 2005. Little did the Italian realise at the time that it was a decision that would change his life forever, and turn his family’s world upside down. In five starts for Cumani, Starcraft won two of Europe’s most important “mile” races, the Prix du Moulin at Longchamp in France and the Queen Elizabeth II Stakes at Newmarket. After that great run with Starcraft, Makin encouraged Cumani to buy an English stayer, Glistening, to target the 2006 Melbourne Cup.

That adventure to Melbourne with Glistening, who finished 10th behind Japanese stayer Delta Blues, gave the Cumani family more than a just a taste of Australia at Cup time; it started an obsession with the country that would eventually “adopt” a Cumani daughter and son. Cumani was joined on that trip by his horse-mad, 23-year-old daughter Francesca, who was Glistening’s track rider. Australia endeared itself to the suave Italian-Englishman, whose obsession since has been to win the Melbourne Cup – so far without success. However, while Luca was focused on the Cup, Australia became obsessed with Francesca, who within two years had joined Channel Seven as an expert commentator during its Melbourne spring racing carnival coverage. Ten years on and Francesca not only remains a permanent fixture of Australian racing coverage, but she lives in Scone and Sydney in NSW with her husband, champion polo player Rob Archibald, and their 30-month-old son Harry. Her elder brother, Matt, 37, who gave up a life as a financier and political adviser in London to pursue the family tradition in racing, has settled into life as a trainer at Ballarat with his Australian wife, Sarah Bell.

Matt said it took a while for his parents to come to terms with having their two children living in Australia. But he realised the Cumani brand was so strong in Australia, particularly in Victoria, that this was the right place to start his own business. “I suppose we’ve become a bit of a name in Australia and when you’re weighing up whether to come here or go to America – where it wouldn’t be as strong a brand – you’ve got to do everything to give you an advantage in terms of attracting owners and buyers,” he says. Cumani started with only 11 boxes at his stables at Ballarat, but now he has room for 40 and all the boxes are full. Incredibly, while Francesca became the easily recognisable face of the Melbourne spring racing carnival, she was a relative unknown in her home country. It wasn’t until 2016 that she was offered a position as part of the English ITV racing commentary team. Her CV includes hosting a racing show on CNN in the US, and following the world racing circuit means she and Harry can spend time at “home” in Newmarket with a couple of doting grandparents. Recently, The Sun newspaper in England ran a feature on her headlined, “Who is Francesca Cumani?” The Poms are a bit late to the party. She’s ours. ●

“That adventure to Melbourne ... started an obsession with the country that would eventually “adopt” a Cumani daughter & son.”

THE IMPORTED STAYERS

Francesca and Matt Cumani at Altona beach. JASON SOUTH

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t wouldn’t be a Melbourne spring racing carnival, or maybe a racing carnival anywhere, without the effervescent figure of Gai Waterhouse. The Sydney-based trainer has been coming to Melbourne at this time of the year ever since she was a girl with her father, the legendary trainer Tommy Smith. The family would park for three weeks in an executive suite at the iconic Southern Cross Hotel in Exhibition Street. Although the Southern Cross is long gone, Waterhouse has become one of the world’s most successful thoroughbred horse trainers and one of the most recognisable faces in world racing. Melbourne has had a love affair with Waterhouse since she burst on the racing scene in her own right in 1993, when her horse, the 160-1 longshot Te Akau Nick, finished second in the Melbourne Cup behind the ground-breaking Irish gelding, Vintage Crop. For the next 30 years, Waterhouse rewrote racing’s record books and, along the way, endeared herself to an information-hungry media. She became the face of Australian racing for many with her infectious enthusiasm for the sport that she loves. However, the glory of winning the Cup eluded her until she imported an Irish horse with an Italian name, Fiorente. Fiorente finished second behind Green Moon in 2012 but the following year, with Damien Oliver in the saddle, stormed home to provide Waterhouse with a glorious win and another title – that of the first Australian woman to train the winner of our greatest race. Since then, Waterhouse has changed tack.

In recent years, with the help of a youthful cotrainer, Adrian Bott, she slowed her pace enough to not only pat the horses, but also enjoy more family life, doting especially on her grandchildren. She also spends more time in Melbourne, where she and bookmaker husband Robbie Waterhouse bought a lavish Spring Street apartment in 2014. The apartment is now not only a base for the Waterhouses during the Melbourne spring racing carnival – her quest for a second Melbourne Cup still burns strong – but also for whenever they feel like getting away from heady Sydney. The pair enjoy particularly going to the theatre – Waterhouse, as Gai Smith, was a budding actress in her youth – and to pay further homage to their favourite restaurants. They love Melbourne’s cultural scene and exploring its bustling laneways for the next Melbourne morsel to savour. Arm in arm, the Waterhouses are a familiar sight in Melbourne’s streets at any time of the year.

Wo r d s

They love to walk, and it’s not uncommon to them to trek across the Botanic Gardens to South Yarra to enjoy one of their favourite places, such as seafood restaurant Bacash, and for a coffee, Lawson Grove Shop. “Melbourne has a multitude of things to see and do. On many occasions I have enjoyed the walk between Spring Street, through the gardens to South Yarra and Chapel Street, and back along the Yarra to the Crown casino precinct. It is all very close,” Waterhouse says. The go-to post-races place is down Little Collins Street. ‘‘Regardless of the outcome of the races, after Rob and I will go out for dinner to chew the cud at the Italian restaurant Il Bacaro with our very close friends Lea and Bruce Stracey,” Waterhouse says. “If it was a winning day, we’ll toast our success, but if it wasn’t we’ll still have a few laughs.” Waterhouse and Bott have two horses aiming for this year’s Lexus Melbourne Cup; Hush Writer and Thinkin’ Big. ●

DA N N Y P OW E R

Gai & Melbourne: a love affair THE TRAINER She still burns for a second Melbourne Cup win,

but Gai Waterhouse takes life at less of a gallop these days.

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OMENS From green suits

SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

to grey horses, superstitions reign at the racecourse.

Lucky charms

ROB GUNSTONE

T

he racetrack is a hotbed of superstitions. I’m not really sure why anyone might would wear a green suit in Bourke Street but never, ever at Flemington, where it’s very bad luck. Or why a bird pooping on your flash suit is a dripping nuisance in the real world but a glorious, heavensent signal of good fortune at the track. Maybe the nature of the racetrack – of racing – lends itself to sudden onsets of spiritualism and omen fearing. These superstitions are centuries old and still going strong. You’ll only see green suits at the races from those who are new to the cult of the track. Early in the day, you will see the occasional white smudge on a suit and a confident smile from a punter deadset sure they will be rich by day’s end because the poop deems it so. You will see grey horses start at short odds on wet

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Wo r d s

M AT T S T E WA R T

“Racetrack lore has it that grey horses are all great wet trackers.” ISTOCK

tracks not because they are proven swimmers, but only because they are grey. Racetrack lore has it that grey horses are all great wet trackers. Someone once said it had something to do with hoof pigment. One of the greatest grey horses was a sprinter called Schillaci, and Schillaci hated the wet. I pointed this out to a punter who subscribed to the grey/wet theory. “An aberration,’’ he muttered. Old-school punters are always alert when they enter the racecourse because it’s good luck to back the first runner of the first trainer you see. It’s a hitand-miss superstition, usually just a desperate moan when Jo Bloggs’ 100-1 shot wins the first race. “Ya not gonna believe it, Bloggy was the first bloke I saw! But I backed the bloody favourite instead …’’ Some superstitions are personal rather than universal. Some are even regional. A Channel Seven reporter once did a light-hearted piece on “the early crow’’ at a Moonee Valley race meeting. The “crow’’ is when you cheer your horse prematurely. It’s regarded, in Victoria at least, as “terminal’’ if you mutter “gee, this thing’s travelling well …” before the horse even enters the home straight. But they’d never heard of the crow in

Sydney. The reporter asked legendary Sydney racing scribe Max Presnell about the “crow” and Presnell screwed up his face. “The what?’’ One reporter mate believes that if he enters the track and sees a person with a certain type of “affliction’’, it’s a bad omen. Another usually astute journalist mate was once burdened with four numbers; 6, 3, 5, 2. His wife wasn’t particularly interested in horses but stood in front of him one morning when he was heading to the track and said she’d dreamed of those four numbers. “So I had to take these numbers in the quadrella every day from that day forward,’’ he rued. “I had to do it because I knew the day I didn’t they’d get up.’’ He was getting fed-up with the endless chore and about to call an end to this superstitious nonsense one day at Sandown. “This is the last time,’’ he told himself. The numbers got up and he won five grand. The chore was rebooted by the first-ever success of the four numbers and continues unsuccessfully to this day, not because my mate is superstitious but because his wife checks the numbers every Saturday night. ●

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SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

Take a box seat THE CHEF Trackside tucker gets the Guillaume

Brahimi treatment; chilled beer and French fare.

F

rom culinary collaborations with Stella Artois at Paris Fashion Week in June, to his exclusive appearance at the brand’s Caulfield Cup Carnival marquee this month, Guillaume Brahimi is a very busy man. The French-born and Sydney-based chef, who spends 150 days a year in Melbourne overseeing Bistro Guillaume at Crown, says the emphasis in the invitation-only Stella Artois marquee will be on simple yet substantial dishes. “I always start by thinking to myself what would I like to eat at the races,” says 50-year-old Brahimi, who moved to Australia at 23.

Wo r d s

Guillaume Brahimi’s prawn cocktails and pea tortellini will do the rounds of the Stella Artois Caulfield Cup marquee this year.

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dissimilar to fashion, which delivers collections twice a year ...”

first time this year. I am a classical chef and will never say otherwise, but I love bringing a touch of contemporary to the finished concept.” Brahimi says his Paris fare is pitched to the health conscious, too. “People are trying to eat healthier and want lighter dishes, so we try to amend the French way of cooking to suit a 2018 lifestyle.” Matching lager with French food might sound tricky, but Brahimi isn’t one to compromise his reputation to be the best at it. Brahimi says he is looking forward to overseeing the kitchen and celebrating in the marquee with friends at the Caulfield Cup. “French food has always been about using seasonal produce, so it’s not dissimilar to fashion, which delivers collections twice a year on average,” he says. “We’ve brought that concept to the marquee to show our most fashionable side, too.” ●

GUILLAUME BRAHIMI

Raceday recipe from Guillaume Brahimi p16

“Partnering with Stella Artois means I have dishes that work well with a cold beer,” he adds. Stella Artois are this year’s sponsor of the $5.15 million group 1 Caulfield Cup, and Brahimi has created four signature dishes for the Stella VIP guests, which he says will be in abundance on the day. It’s prawn cocktails for arrival – think large, kingsized ones with lashings of thousand-island dressing, avocado and Yarra Valley salmon rose, plus some crispy lettuce. “Prawns and beer are such a classic combination, and we’re serving them in the most elegant manner for the guests,” he says.

A carbohydrate meal never goes astray either, hence his decision to add pasta to the menu. He’s chosen pea tortellini filled with asparagus, goat’s cheese, mint and olive oil. Then there’s the braised spring lamb shoulder served with ratatouille, black olive tapenade, crushed kipfler potato and zucchini flowers. For those with a sweet tooth, a dessert duo of sorbet raspberries comes with fresh lemon cream, caramelised white chocolate pistachio cake, meringue and marshmallow. “French food is the cornerstone of every cooking,” Brahimi says. “I am so proud of my heritage and proud to be able to bring it to the marquee for the

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SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

Correct weight RECIPE Guillaume Brahimi

created this sweet for Stella Artois at Paris Fashion Week; it’s a perfectly lip-smacking mix for raceday parties.

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Duo of raspberries with lemon cream, white chocolate, pistachio & meringue Makes 10 2 punnets raspberries Elderflowers Lemon curd 1 sheet gold gelatine 75g pouring cream 75g lemon juice 135g whole eggs 55g sugar 30g butter Soak gelatine in cold water. Combine cream and lemon juice in a small pot and bring to a simmer, remove from heat. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs and sugar. Pour cream on to eggs and return to pan over medium heat. Whisk until 80C or until thick. Remove from heat, squeeze gelatine to remove excess water and add to lemon curd with butter. Whisk until combined, strain and chill in fridge.

Caramelised white chocolate 100g white chocolate Heat oven to 120C. Chop chocolate into pieces and put on a baking-paper line tray. Bake in oven for 15 minutes, stir and continue to bake until golden. Cool and chop into small pieces. Reserve in fridge. Meringue 100g egg whites 200g caster sugar Preheat oven to 100C. Whip whites until foaming, add sugar and whip until thick and stiff. Put in piping bag and pipe into ½ cm dots. Put in oven and cook for an hour or until crisp. Raspberry sorbet 500g raspberries 130g sugar 12g glucose powder 100g water Juice of 1 lemon

When it’s not about the price, but about the outcome…

Combine all ingredients in blender and blend until smooth. Strain and churn in ice-cream maker according to manufacturers instructions. Reserve in freezer. Crystalised pistachios 50g caster sugar 25ml water 100g roasted pistachios 4g salt Put the sugar and water in a pot and take to 115C. Remove from the heat and add the nuts and salt, stir until nuts are crystalised, and pour onto baking paper. To assemble Pipe lemon cream on to a dish, sprinkle with chocolate and raspberries, quenelle between two spoons a small scoop of sorbet and place on top, sprinkle over pistachios, meringue and elderflowers. Can also be arranged in individual glasses. ●

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A class of its own

SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

DESIGN Inside the architectural

new arena for the sport of kings.

S T R A I G H T PE RS PE C T IV E

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SEAN FENNESSY

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he Victorian Racing Club’s impressive new $128 million stand will appeal to more than just racegoers. An eye-catching sculptural design, cool contemporary interiors and rooftop garden are designed to endear a new generation to the sport. The luxurious club stand, the 10th in its history, is Flemington’s boldest architectural statement since the VRC was founded 154 years ago. VRC chairman Amanda Elliott says she gave architects Bates Smart the task of designing something that would do for Melbourne what the Opera House did for Sydney. “We wanted to raise the bar and build a beautiful building to reflect what Flemington is all about,”


The petals of Flemington’s famous roses informed the curvilinear

Elliott says. “It’s elegant but joyful; it’s got a lightness about it that lifts the spirits on entering – no matter how bad the day on the punt has gone.” Inspired by the shape of the race track and its rose gardens, the curvilinear stand was designed in the round so there are uninterrupted views of the course, the winning post and Melbourne’s CBD. Six years in the planning, the stand was completed in 20 months. The lobby feels more like a five-star hotel, and a central staircase leads to two upmarket restaurants, three cafes and eight bars, all with their own individual style. Elliott says the VRC has built the stand with the future in mind. “It will be something that nonracing participants along with our racing purists will enjoy.” Elliott says the roof was inspired by racing hats

stand, by

PETER CLARKE

Bates Smart.

Continued p20

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From p19

and the petal-shaped overhangs by Flemington’s roses. Bates Smart director Jeff Copolov, who is responsible for the interiors, has nailed every single venue, she says. “We wanted to create a building that was as joyful and sculptural as a wonderful hat or dress,” Copolov says. The grandstands of the past faced one way with catering at the back, but Bates Smart wanted a building in the round with floor-to-ceiling glazing and uninterrupted views. “Great architecture is made by great clients, and Amanda was extraordinary in her passion and vision for the project,” Copolov says. The neutral external shell, the arrival spaces, the staircase and the members’ lounge are all genuinely timeless, Copolov says. The personality-filled food and beverage outlets are designed so they can be updated if needed in the future. In the lobby, a grand staircase creates a central

A series of spaces, from rarefied to contemporary, capture different moods, touched with heritage.

void connecting the five levels. A rich-green rug with the VRC insignia echoes the green of the Flemington turf outside. Copolov set out to create a sequence of spaces with different moods to offer a variety of experiences for racegoers. The upmarket restaurant on level three, the Byerley, features upholstered banquets, rich carpets and an acoustically-treated ceiling to create a rarefied air. In contrast, the contemporary Straight Six bistro is more textured with terrazzo stones, handmade tiles and woven metal finishes, giving it a robust, lively feel. The designer’s favourite space is the stylish Mumm champagne bar. Copolov and his team travelled to Reims in France to visit the Mumm cellar. The traditional riddling racks have inspired the

Artist impression

Artist impression

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M A RY O ’ B R I E N

brass displays and the iconic Mumm red ribbon is used as a dynamic stripe in the bar, also echoing the slipstream of a horse race. And no detail was forgotten. The club stand’s different carpets, which were designed inhouse, pay tribute to the history of the club and British horse racing. Playing with the idea of traditional racing fabrics, the carpet designs reference tweed, houndstooth, tartan, plaid, stripes and one inspired by a Paul Smith-type pattern. Bespoke pieces echo the heritage of the VRC while items of the club’s collection are on display throughout the building. The roof garden on top of the five-level stand offers spectacular views and will be opening specially for AAMI Victoria Derby Day. Bates Smart director Kristen Whittle, who headed the architectural team, says the club stand is an elegant and timeless building that will become a strong new cultural symbol for generations to come. “We’ve captured everything we hoped and dreamed about,” Copolov says. ●

T H E B LU E G R A S S BA R ’ S O PU L E N T C U RV E S

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A R B O RY BA R A N D E AT E RY

THE ROAST A hearty brunch

after a long day at the races could be the appropriate cure-all.

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JOSIE WITHERS

T

he crusty crunch of eyelids opening from the night before, the suspicion your breath could be flammable near a naked flame, and a sharp pounding behind the eyes. Anyone in Melbourne during spring carnival knows “the race that stops a nation” certainly can stop someone shuffling far from bed the next day. It’s a fun time, it’s a fascinating time, but it’s also one of the biggest events on the drinking calendar and trashy punters and sore heads are odds on favourites. Don’t feel bad. It will all feel better tomorrow. In the meantime, here are five top recovery brunches to help you get out of the gate. ●

The recovery round-up


SIMON SHIFF

BONNIE SAVAGE

ALL BLACK BREAKFAST

HAM AND CHEESE

BURGER

CROISSANT

POTATO WAFFLE

PHILLY CHEESESTEAK

The Arbory is an all-day

The Philly cheesesteak may be

Unless you’ve been living under

Standing in the fast-moving

favourite with its Yarra River

your post-race day salvation,

a slice of American cheese,

line at well-known Lune’s latest

vistas and breezy vibes. Its

with slow-cooked beef in a

you’ll know burgers are now

CBD croissanterie is worth

thumping potato waffle is

pillowy long roll, with juicy

an “all day” food. Chef Ritchie

every flaky skerrick of still-

loaded with two soft-poached

caramelised onion, mayo, and

Boucher (ex-Oakridge Winery)

warm pastry you’ll be rewarded

eggs, cured trout and

that yellow US cheese. Wash

has created the black charcoal

with at the end. Try the shaved

asparagus. Pastries by Cobb

the cheesesteak down with an

bun. Inside are a rosti, fried egg,

ham, Swiss gruyere and seeded

Lane may give you the sugar

apple-pie shake – a whizzed

bacon, smoked paprika and

mustard, or if you are craving

rush you need, or if you’ve

blend of made-in-house soft-

black garlic aioli, haloumi and

something sweet, don’t skip the

missed breakfast altogether,

serve ice-cream and apple

tomato capsicum relish.

pain au chocolat.

go straight for Arbory’s double

pie, and afterwards, order the

Coffee: Padre, Daddy’s

Coffee: Small Batch,

cheeseburger.

lemon tart.

Girl; a soft and rich blend

Candyman; sweet, balanced

Coffee: Axil Coffee, Seasonal

Coffee: Proud Mary, Humbler;

of Colombian, Indian and

espresso blend. ●

Blend; a sweet, all-rounder that

a no-fuss blend with a big

pairs well with milk. ●

syrupy body. ●

Ethiopian beans. ● Cue, Lune Croissanterie CBD, Field Black, 468 High Street,

Shop 16, 161 Collins Street

Arbory Bar & Eatery,

Candied Bakery, 81A Hudsons

Northcote

(enter Russell Street)

1 Flinders Walk, CBD

Road, Spotswood

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Bubbling with enthusiasm CHEERS In the spring, a partygoer’s fancy turns to champagne.

O

bviously there are edgier celebratory drinking options available, but when it comes to the spring racing carnival, it really has to be champagne. And if you’re going to be spending the dollars on champagne – and let’s face it, you will be forking out $25 or more a glass for decent French bubbles – you’ll want to choose a venue that not only knows its wine, but also adds glamour to the drinking. The Chablis Bar at Kisume, Chris Lucas’ multilevel sushi palace on Flinders Lane, is all about the glam. Flattering lighting, glittery metallic surfaces, comfortably upholstered furniture and racy artwork. It also has one of the best champagne T H E C H A B LI S BA R , KI S U M E

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lists in town, put together by award-winning wine guy Philip Rich. The house champagne is the elegant and reasonably priced Veuve Fourny, but for those who’ve had a big win, the prices – and the quality of the bubbles – can go as high as you like, including some knee-weakening vintages of Krug and Dom Perignon. South Melbourne’s Bellota has the advantage of being attached to one of the best wine merchants in town, Prince Wine Store. This means access to some of the best champagne in town at retail prices – a rare confluence of bargain and quality. Coupled with chef Nicky Reimer’s excellent European-influenced food and a relaxed but

MICHAEL HARDEN

spring specials Warran Glen A perfect destination everyday. Garden / Gifts / Cafe 373 Ringwood-Warrandyte Rd, Warrandyte (Corner Jumping Creek Rd) Garden Centre 9844 3027/ Café 9844 1322 www.warranglen.com.au

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Come and visit our Nursery and see our current promotion across all green life including 20% discount for bulk purchases of 5 or more of one plant variety. *excludes some stock lines.

gift shop new stock New Spring and Summer stock arriving daily including gardeners gifts, indoor/outdoor plants, furniture, fashion and great Christmas gifts.


Signature drink sophisticated vibe, Bellota is an ideal place to celebrate with the good stuff. Stokehouse in St Kilda has long been a racegoer's de facto clubhouse and the Stokebar, with its incredible views over the bay and continent-jumping finger food – prawn tacos, ceviche, fried chicken, oysters – always elevates the champagne-drinking experience. The award-winning wine list, assembled by sommelier Gavin Cremmings, contains incredible vintage and grower champagne alongside crowd pleasers like Veuve Clicquot. The bar at Cutler & Co is one for the designconscious racegoer with an eye for artisan champagne from small producers. There’ll usually be a couple by the glass, perhaps a NV Duval-Leroy, plus a bottle list that will excite the buffs. Order the fruits de mer, a market selection of best quality seafood, and really do the racing carnival in style. ●

It’s not champagne, but Kisume’s Philip Rich reckons that Patrick Piuze sparkling wine, made from chardonnay and pinot grapes in Chablis, is the drink for the summer – elegant, bone dry and just $20 a glass. PAIR IT WITH … Freshly shucked oysters, of course. It’s the spring racing carnival – we’re not here to break new ground. ●

Just dropped GROWER CHAMPAGNE CLUB \ The Local Drop, an online store run by wine guy Jagdev Singh, has just launched Australia’s first Grower Champagne Club. It’s a great way to get your hands on some small producer stuff that’s not widely available. First champagne off the rank is the NV Lacourte-Godbillon Terroirs D’Ecueil, made from organically farmed vines on a small

● kisume.com.au

Champagne vineyard. It’s vinous, nervy and complex, something like champion racehourse,

● bellota.com.au

really. Subscribers to the club get the champagne, two flutes and a copy of Champagne – A

● stokehouse.com.au

Secret History by Robert Walters for $95. ●

● cutlerandco.com.au

● thelocaldrop.com.au/champagne

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SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

BACON BLOODY MARY \ PONTOON AT THE STOKEHOUSE $15

Bloody brilliant

Vodka and Jagermeister are given a salty edge with olive brine, tomato juice, Worcestershire, Tabasco and lemon juice.

AFTER PARTY Melbourne’s guide to the world’s most famous cocktail.

Sriracha hot sauce lines the rim, and bacon, soaked in maple syrup and crisped in the oven, rocks as the garnish. ●

T

he Bloody Mary is the Elvis of cocktails, loaded with personality and all about the bling. In Milwaukee, “the bloody”, as it’s affectionately known, sparked garnish wars of over-the-top insanity, with Sobelman’s Pub and Grill creating a 13-topping bonanza of cheeseburger sliders and mini-dogs, culminating in a whole fried chicken. Considered it the ultimate “hair of the dog”; there may be some scientific truth to its rejuvenating properties. Tomato juice replaces electrolytes and sodium, lemon juice gives a hit of vitamin C, and vodka resets the alcoholic equilibrium, delaying the inevitable hangover hurt.

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Folklore has it the original tomato juice-vodka combo was first mixed in the 1921 by American bartender Fernand Petiot at Harry’s New York Bar in Paris, a favourite hangout of Ernest Hemingway, Pablo Picasso, and Gertrude Stein. Its incarnations are myriad, and few cocktails are as polarising, or revered. In The Mixer’s Manual, Dan Jones writes: “The bloodiest of all the bloody drinks – never has a cocktail recipe been so debated.” Most loosely agree on vodka, Tabasco, Worcestershire, lemon juice and celery – a brew that gives the BM its superb savoury umami-ness. Love it or hate it, here are Melbourne’s best bloodys:

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Also try HOTEL JESUS $17 Reposado tequila is shaken with tomato, orange and lemon juice, port reduction, chipotle, vegan Worcestershire, Maggi sauce and horseradish. Garnished with pickled celery and cucumber, radish, olive

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and lemon.

BORSCH, VODKA & TEARS $15 These guys infuse vodka with chilli and garlic. It’s a simple treatment of tomato juice, lemon and Tabasco,

BLOODY MARY \ COOKIE $22

BLOODY MARTA \

THE BLOODY YUM \

garnished with cucumber, celery, and

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olives. And it’s a winner.

stakes, Cookie’s version is all

Oh yeah, this is one of the best. It

Tom yum paste makes this a

about its 17-ingredient pickle mix.

starts with a freshly whizzed juice

ripper. Add a splash of fish sauce,

LE BON TON $19

That’s teamed with vodka, lemon

of dill, cucumber, celery, chilli and

chilli-infused Wyborowa Polish

Calling this tipple “legendary” may be

juice and a red wine reduction, and

garlic. Add tomato juice, your

vodka, lemon juice, tomato juice,

a stretch, but it’s pretty bloody good.

garnished with tomato, pickled

choice of vodka, gin or tequila, a

pepper and a garnish of Thai basil,

Using Ketel One Vodka, it’s smoky

onion, cornichons, olives,

three-olive garnish, and life’s a

a dried chilli, cucumber, lemon, an

and savoury with a pickle and

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olive, and sometimes ginger. ●

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SPR I NG R ACI NG EDITION

Local boutiques stand out from the crowd SHOPPING The complete raceday preparation blends style and substance.

‘S

hop local” might be the mantra of independent retailers but it works for shoppers, too. After all, strolling down to your neighbourhood’s main street is a lot less stressful than navigating a shopping centre’s crowds and carparks and will often yield one-off discoveries and friendlier, more personal service. For readers who have some shopping to do for the racing season, here are some local suggestions.

Wo r d s LANA BERG

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ERIN MUNRO

Fashion North-east residents in need of some fashions for the field can pop into Ritz of Rosanna, which has a wide range of racewear and cocktail dresses in sizes 8 to 24. South Melbourne’s Clarendon Street is home to Lana Berg, which stocks local and international labels handpicked by owner Lana herself. Down Bayside way, Mordialloc’s Tierra Alma stocks bohemian dresses and gowns from coveted Byron Bay label Spell and American icon, Free People. Muse Boutique in Hawthorn has glam styles for the inner-east set. ●


A DV ER T IS IN G F E AT UR E

Food & wine

WA R R A N G L E N N U RS E RY

Need something to take to a barbecue or doing some hosting yourself? Local providores and wine stores are a great option. In Ripponlea, Garage Wine Store & Bar is a cool new addition to the suburb and showcases lesser-known vineyards, while in Malvern East classy bar/ restaurant/wine store Riserva has a European f lavour. Cleo’s Deli is a local favourite for cheeses, meats and appetisers in both Elwood and Prahran, thanks to its Ormond Road and Prahran Market stores. Alimentari in Fitzroy has some delicious deli bites, and Brunswick Wine Shop has drops from small producers to wash them down with. ● R IT Z O F R O SA N N A

Flowers Nothing says a spring home like fresh blooms, which also belong as a flourish in raceday suit lapel, or in bespoke headpieces. Warrandyte’s Warran Glen nursery has bouquets and potted plants, and a cafe for refuelling. Flowers Vasette on Brunswick Street has an array to choose from, and Port Melbourne’s Ivy and Eve design beautiful arrangements. ●

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SUMMIT DONCASTER HILL \ PEAK LIVING DELIVERS STYLE, SPACE & PANORAMAS

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s one of metropolitan Melbourne’s highest points, the peak of Doncaster Hill commands some of Melbourne’s most spectacular city views, with 360-degree views to the CBD, Port Phillip Bay and the Dandenong Ranges. Developer Poly has secured one of the peak’s most sought-after sites, directly opposite Westfield Doncaster, to build 108 new residences at 9-11 Williamsons Road. Rising 10 levels above Williamsons Road, uninterrupted city views are available from ground level. The building also uses the sloping site to incorporate six double-storey townhouses in lower ground levels. Poly Victoria executive director Steve Wang says all residences are designed for owner-occupiers with a focus on liveability with larger, intelligently designed living spaces and storage with high quality finishes. He says it’s the right time to plan a move to Doncaster Hill which is taking shape as one of Melbourne’s most exciting precincts. The project launches next month with sales incentives including staged progress payments instead of deposits. ● LIZ MCLACHLAN

SUMMIT DONCASTER HILL summitdoncaster.com.au 9-11 Williams Road, Doncaster ● Developer \ Poly ● Architect \ Bruce Henderson Architects and Peddle Thorp ● Interior Designer \ SJB Interiors ● Landscape Designer \ RESIDENCES

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More than 20 different layouts

Residents will enjoy a large

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-66.2 square metres

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Two-bed \ from $495,000

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Three-bed \ from $790,000

eight minutes to Doncaster Primary and 20 to Doncaster Secondary College. ●

view the listing

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FEATURE HOUSE

DOWNLOAD THE DOMAIN APP SEE MORE IMAGES, FLOOR PLANS & PROPERTY DETAILS

TEMPLESTOWE \ 11 LARNACA COURT 4

2

2

The distinctive design and excellent floor plan of this large home makes it suitable for a large family looking for space, style and functionality. Set in a pretty cul de sac on about 780 square metres of landscaped gardens, the house features dramatic cathedral ceilings, soaring voids, an interesting mix of materials and a light and airy atmosphere. The main bedroom suite is located on the ground floor away from the children’s rooms upstairs. The parents get a luxuriously spacious en suite with twin basins, a stepup bath and separate shower, along with a large walk-in wardrobe. Next door to this is a study. The rest of this floor is a wonderful spread of spacious living areas. The formal living room at the front of the house has a large wood-burning open fireplace and steeply raked ceiling. The dining room is next, followed by the beautifully appointed white kitchen. Defined by a deep bulkhead with feature pendant lights, the kitchen has Miele appliances, huge wraparound stone benches, two pantries, banks of drawers and 2pac handlefree cabinetry. It is sleek, attractive and as well-equipped for entertaining as it is for daily family life. The kitchen is part of the meals and family area, which opens to the outdoor entertaining area and the lush garden with Balinese gazebo. At the rear of the home is yet another living area – a large rumpus room with timber wet bar and surround sound. It’s an impressive floor plan, made even more attractive by interesting angles and shapes and light pouring in from

FINAL WORD

all directions. Blackbutt floors provide a satiny glow and carpets are laid in the formal rooms and bedrooms. On the first floor, all three bedrooms have built-in wardrobes and share a family bathroom and living area.

“UNRIVALLED, SUBSTANTIAL FAMILY LIVING IN A QUIET COURT LOCALE , AND POSITIONED IN ONE OF TEMPLESTOWE’S BEST LOCATIONS.” MICHAEL TRAIKOS - AGENT

The house has ducted heating and cooling and is zoned for prestigious Serpell Primary School and East Doncaster Secondary College. Just a few steps away is Larnaca Court Reserve, and Serpells Community Reserve is close. Westfield Doncaster is nearby and, for everyday shopping, The Pines Shopping Centre is a walk away. ● BEVERLEY JOHANSON property@domainreview.com.au Agent: Nelson Alexander, Michael Traikos 0413 657 314 Price: $1.4 million-$1.54 million Auction: 3pm, October 20

Open your camera and hover your phone over the app code to view the listing

SHORTLIST YOUR FAVOURITE HOMES WITH THE DOMAIN APP 32

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MITCHAM \ 4 SUNSHINE AVENUE 3

1

3

Meticulously presented, this renovated weatherboard house brings light and appealing style to this pretty street in Mitcham. Traditional features have been retained and the home has high ceilings, decorative cornices and picture rails. An open fireplace warms the lounge. The stylish contemporary kitchen, with a Smeg five-burner cooktop and pyrolitic oven, and the meals area open to a deck overlooking landscaped gardens. At the rear of the block is a home office/gym and a separate garage. The house, on about 607 square metres, has gas ducted heating, cooling, and an alarm system. It is close to Simpson Park, Mitcham station, schools and shopping. ● BEVERLEY JOHANSON Agent: Noel Jones, Janet Fleet 0438 466 221 Price: $1.1 million-$1.2 million Sale by set date: 5pm, October 30

Open your camera and hover your phone over the app code to view the listing

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The Avalon is a stunning example of Premiers well renowned quality and design combined with a fresh Hamptons vibe. With 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and 3 spacious living zones you can cater for a growing family, or just have space to relax in some peace and quiet. You’ll fall in love with the Amazing Hamptons façade, and upon venturing inside you will be equally impressed with the light spacious interior which features details such as amazing formal lounge with Gas log fire and built in bookcases, a Soaring cathedral ceiling complete with roof windows, attic hideaway, feature decorative plasterwork and high skirtings and solid timber floors. Light filled chefs quarters include buffet and walk-in pantry which create the ultimate luxury lifestyle. The amazing Avalon will be the envy of your street. Welcome home

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Welsh Crescent CLYDE NORTH

Callow Avenue CLYDE NORTH

Hyde Avenue CLYDE NORTH

Upton Drive OFFICER

Contact: 1300 773 643 www.premierbuilders.com.au DOM A IN REV IEW

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35


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DOM A IN REV IEW


25 Gay Street Blackburn North

4

AUCTION

1

3

2

CONTACT

VIEWING

kayburton.com.au DOM A IN REV IEW

37


235 The Boulevard, Ivanhoe East Rare opportunity to purchase grand mansion on 1773sqm/19,000 sq ft land (approx) featuring beautifully landscaped gardens on iconic Boulevard. Grand formal lounge and dining rooms. Granite kitchen with Gaggenau appliances, adjoin informal dining area. Informal living flows to rear garden

38

DOM A IN REV IEW

and swimming pool. Wet bar, sauna and bathroom to pool area. Four large bedrooms, 3 with ensuites. Master with walk-in robe and fully tiled Cararra marble en-suite. Large basement rumpus room. Features ducted gas heating, refrigerated a/c, garden sprinklers and internal lift.


4 Expressions of Interest Close Tuesday 30 October at 6pm Inspect By Appointment

Guide Contact

4

3

$6,100,000 - $6,700,000 Liz Walker 0412 659 140 James Labiris 0409 094 767

DOM A IN REV IEW

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DOM A IN REV IEW


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Trawool Fish and Chips 23 Trawool Street Box Hill

9890 7460

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Shire Hall Cnr. Doncaster Road & Council Street Doncaster 3108

The Beasley’s Teahouse trades We are extremely happy to announce that Beasley’s Teahouse is now back under family management. The Teahouse nestled in the middle of an Award Winning Nursery, a family business created 43 years ago. Enjoy the peaceful surroundings while you indulge in delicious meals with a glass of wine. Takeaway coffee, tea and cold beverages, along with cakes and biscuits are available for customers wishing to wonder through the Nursery, large children’s playground or perhaps a stroll along the Mullum Mullum Trail. Open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea, also catering for groups, private functions and High Tea’s. We look forward to welcoming you. Lunch bookings are essential. High Tea bookings must be made in advance.

195 Heidelberg-Warrandyte Rd, Doncaster East 3109 Mon-Sun: 8:00AM – 5:00PM (03) 9844 1777 - Bookings for Teahouse (03) 9844 3335 - Nursery Enquiries www.beasleysteahouse.com.au

12402448-SN43-18

12402464-ACM43-18

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12402461-ACM43-18

A newly and fully renovated Woolworths


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