Domain Review Bayside & Port Phillip - July 28, 2021

PEOPLE & PROPERTY OF MELBOURNE

SHANNON MARTINEZ THE FE A RLESS FOODIE

PARK LIFE

DISCOVERING ANOTHER TRAIL

EATING OUT

NOT FOR THE FAINT-HEARTED

REAL ESTATE BEAUTIFUL BEAUMARIS

B AY S I D E & P O R T P H I L L I P

JULY 28 - AUGUST 3, 2021

C o mp i l e d b y

HAILEY COULES

The editor’s desk

SIMON SHIFF

Melburnians are an adaptable bunch, and in few other areas is that more true than in our dining scene. I love that there is such a push for plantbased eating that there are so many options now. Chef Shannon Martinez is one of those leading the charge; she’s our cover star this week. And now some housekeeping from us: this is my last edition with you.

I am wrapping up with Domain after six years, and Rachel Wells will be stepping in as editor until Jemimah Clegg returns next year. It’s been a thrill to present the best of Melbourne each week, so thank you for reading. Cheers. ●

IN THE SPIRIT \ Melbourne Whisky Week is on from

BUNDLES OF JOY \ There is a new delivery service

August 20 to 29 at a range of venues. There will be 40

that’s as good as having Nonna in your home rolling the

events, including a Dram-Fine Adventure, which venue-

pasta herself. Pasta Poetry sends seriously good meal

hops the city’s best bars. ● whiskyweek.com.au

kits to your door. ● pastapoetry.com.au

GOING PLACES Things to do & see in Melbourne

OUR COVER \ Chef Shannon Martinez.

Photographed by Kristoffer Paulsen.

INDEPENDENT SCHOOLS GUIDE For the digital edition: domain.com. au/news/domain-digital-editions/ General inquiries \ 9249 5226 \ editorial@domain.com.au Editor \ Jemimah Clegg Editorial producer \ Hailey Coules Group picture editor \ Vashti Newcomb Senior designer \ Colleen Chin Quan Graphic designer \ Emma Staughton

Group director, Consumer \ Jason Chuck Chief executive officer Domain Group \ Jason Pellegrino Real estate sales director \ Ray van Veenendaal \ 0438 279 870 ray.vanv@domain.com.au Retail sales \ retailsales@sales.domain.com.au

Is your mag missing? Distribution \ 1800 032 472 distribution@domainreview.com.au

REVIEW Domain Review is published by Domain Holdings Australia Limited and is printed by IVE, 25-33 Fourth Avenue, Sunshine VIC 3020.

All material is copyright.

JOSH ROBENSTONE

National managing editor \ Alice Stolz

B AY S I D E & P O R T P H I L L I P

Editorial director \ Adrian Lowe

HOME COMFORT \ Adairs has launched its second

HOT TO TROT \ On August 21 and 22, 10 of Australia’s

range with Melbourne furniture designer Mark Tuckey,

best chefs will serve dishes fresh from the grill as

featuring soft furnishings like 100 per cent hemp quilt

part of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival. Entry

covers and oak furniture. ● adairs.com.au

is free. ● melbournefoodandwine.com.au

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A taste for adventure Wo r d s

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JA N E R O C CA ●

Ph o t o

K R I S T O F F E R PAU L S E N

COVER STORY Pioneering restaurateur Shannon Martinez is bringing

her acclaimed meat-free dining south of the Yarra after a challenging year.

I

n the early 2000s, Melbourne chef Shannon Martinez introduced a vegan parma to the menu at the East Brunswick Hotel that had punk rockers queuing up to dine before they hit the band room.

“The pub hosted a lot of punk shows back then, and they’d all turn up to eat vegan food,” she says.

“It went ballistic. That’s when I knew I was onto something.”

Under her masterful spell, Martinez has elevated her plant-based hunch of all those years ago to fine dining at her Fitzroy restaurants Smith & Daughters and Smith & Deli.

While the parma is no longer on the menu, she’s found her niche, bringing mock replications to the table one tasty mouthful at a time. And try to find anyone more obsessed about making faux chicken from flour than she is.

Martinez has now brought her plant ambition to Lona Misa, a formal restaurant in South Yarra’s Ovolo Hotel.

“It was such a bittersweet moment for me,” she says. “I was asked to start a new restaurant and thrilled to do it, and then a few months later got diagnosed with cancer.”

Martinez spent the first six months of 2020 undertaking 20 rounds of chemotherapy and immunotherapy. Menus were the furthest thing from her mind.

“My cancer coincided with COVID happening and it actually worked out well because I’m usually a million miles an hour and suddenly had to stop,” she says. “Both businesses slowed right down.

I couldn’t do anything but focus on myself at that point, but once I got through it, it was good to have something different to get my head around.

Lona Misa was a chance to start something fresh and work in a new format. I was ready for it.”

When Martinez opened Smith & Daughters in 2014, the focus was on creating Latin food with a nod to her Spanish heritage. She brings that

passionate streak to Lona Misa; think oyster mushroom ceviche, crispy bechamel croquettes, a vegan take on blood sausage and vegan egg yolk too.

“I’ve actually gone very vegetable focused at Lona Misa because I feel clients will be more health conscious rather than straight up vegans this side of town,” she says. “There will be some crazy meat replications on the menu too because that’s what I’m known for, but what I love about the Ovolo is their commitment to plant-based dining for 12 months.

It’s across all their chains from Australia to Hong Kong and Bali. It’s a risk, and I like that attitude.”

The chef actually started out as a classically trained violinist, playing from the age of four.

“I was asked to start a new restaurant and thrilled to do it, and then a few months later got diagnosed with cancer.”

When she turned 20, Martinez went electric with her violin and found her happy place holding a bass guitar on stage.

She played with industrial metal band Voltera in the mid 2000s, finding success in the United States.

She’s done a Vans Warped Tour and licensed their music to a Tony Hawk video game.

It was while living between Australia and the US and married to a professional skateboarder that Martinez found herself in the kitchen, cooking vegan dishes for bands on the road.

“I never trained traditionally and never had a mentor,” she says. “I was always a lone ranger and vegan food fitted in with that. You also couldn’t find

anything decent to eat if you were vegan. That’s what really inspired me.”

But for all her career high-fives – and there have been many – Martinez admits she was plagued with self-doubt when she lost her sense of taste due to the chemotherapy last year.

“I was writing menus and couldn’t taste anything.

It was a f---ing wild time,” she says. “It has come back now, but it put me in a space of self-doubt I have never felt before.”

Besides dealing with cancer and pandemicrelated lockdowns and dining restrictions, Martinez was also going through a relationship breakdown.

She isn’t one to wallow in her misery, though.

She turned her fury into a positive mindset and even wrote a comic book in lockdown, honouring her female friends who made her meals, took her to hospital appointments and kept her focused.

Now she’s writing a chemotherapy patient cookbook (and looking for a publisher) and hopes to bring more awareness to plant-based dining as a ticket to better health.

“The media has played a big part in changing people’s thinking about plant-based dining,” Martinez says. “When I started out, vegan food was still very fringe, not taken seriously and regarded as a hippy thing; definitely not in the world of fine dining. Slowly the attitude has shifted.

“More people have become aware of the environmental impact of eating meat; they’re aware of factory farming and know the health impact of eating it too.

“Not everyone is lining up to turn vegan or plant-based, but I’d love to see the day where it’s Meat Mondays and plant dining every other day.

People are more conscious now than ever before. ● LONA MISA RESTAURANT, OVOLO HOTEL \ 234 Toorak Road, South Yarra ● ovolohotels.com

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OUT FOR DINNER

Our best restaurant?

KRISTOFFER PAULSEN

M

A R U E XE C U TIV E C H E F K H A N H N G U Y E N

Sell it, rent it or just sit tight Follow your home on Domain to see what your next move should be.

y dining buddy looks at me with genuine concern – I’m totally overwhelmed by the menu at Aru, which opened in June following a year-long delay. This is the most excited I’ve been since executive chef Khanh Nguyen and Adi Halim (The Hotel Windsor) opened Sunda in 2018.

Aru is a slick, elongated space occupying two former shopfronts. The open kitchen is behind a 16-metre marble bar, sections are separated by chain mail curtains and it seats 120, with a private dining room for up to 14 people.

I forewarn our waiter that we’re going to overdo it, then add one last dish when she suggests we stop

Wo r d s

S O F IA L E VI N

Buses replace trains on the Frankston and Stony Point lines As part of Victoria’s Big Build, we’re removing level crossings.

Train disruptions: Buses replace trains in both directions Frankston and Stony Point lines

Until 28 Jul

Moorabbin to Frankston and Stony Point

25 Jul to late 2021

Edithvale, Chelsea and Bonbeach stations closed

29 Jul to 1 Aug From 9pm 13 Sep to 31 Oct

Mordialloc to Frankston and Stony Point

Road disruptions: Closed roads Argyle Avenue, Chelsea

Until Oct

Closed at the level crossing

Bondi Road, Bonbeach Edithvale Road, Edithvale

Visit domain.com.au/owners 8

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MTIA5884

Find out if you’re affected at bigbuild.vic.gov.au

Authorised by the Victorian Government, 1 Treasury Place, Melbourne

(a luscious take on Vietnamese broken rice in a clay pot, which turns out to be a favourite).

The kitchen burns red gum in a three-metre-long hearth, and a custom wood-fired oven daily roasts a maximum of 10 portions of babi guling (crackling pork), broken down from whole pigs and served with hand-chopped sambals (desert lime and green tomato, bush tomato and coconut).

BA B I G U LI N G

Nguyen’s successful lockdown experiments grace the menu, such as his 50-ingredient pate en croute with “flavours of banh mi” and life-changing fermented black rice sourdough.

Small bites include a Bunnings-esque nem nuong hybrid of duck sausage on squishy white bao-dough bread, wagyu tongue skewers wrapped in pepper leaf and duck “ham” plated with Peking duckinspired condiments.

Where other chefs might overpower dishes with native Australian ingredients, Nguyen uses them to enhance the flavours of his heritage.

It’s the same for desserts and cocktails, whether it’s tapioca pudding with salted palm-sugar butterscotch and wattle honeycomb, or an umami martini made with Four Pillars Olive Leaf Gin, sake and bush tomato.

When I go to congratulate Nguyen on the way out, he has the same facial expression as my companion at the start of the meal.

“You guys ordered a lot,” he says.

And I’d do it again. ●

What’s nearby?

Bijou Bottle Store glows with charm on the corner of Russell Place, just 180 metres up from Aru. Open Monday to Saturday from noon until 1am, you can grab a boutique bottle on the way home, or cosy up surrounded by wooden wine shelves.

Aussie spirits, cocktails and snacks are also available.

● Aru ● 268 Little Collins Street, Melbourne ● aru.net.au

● bijoubottlestore.com

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PARK LIFE Pipemakers Park, Maribyrnong WHAT CAN YOU DO THERE?

VAIDA SAVICKAITE

Pipe dreams

D I S C OV E RY T R A I L

He’ll be there for the long run Because y ou are.

Run, walk or wheel 72km in September and raise funds for men with prostate cancer.

Help love go the distance. Sign up now. thelongrun.org.au

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Towering organic structures blending timber and steel are set against the Maribyrnong River and the city’s skyline beyond it. Though Maribyrnong might be best-known for Highpoint Shopping Centre, Pipemakers Park is a great reason to venture here.

With a walking track along the river, seating, an educational trail highlighting the park’s history and celebrating the Wurundjeri traditional owners of the area, it’s teeming with things to do.

Heading down into the playground from the car park, cascading hills lush with native greenery rustle in the breeze while local birds dart around. The descent is full of joys.

There’s a huge, twisting slide, exciting obstacle courses up to the structure’s summit, sandpits and swings. Also toilets, historic buildings from the former pipe works and Melbourne’s Living Museum of the West. It’s wheelchair accessible, too.

The History of the Land Discovery Trail next to the playground has six beautifully mosaiced spots to explore.

Wo r d s

ELSIE LANGE

I go to find Poppy and Evie, who tell me what they love most about the park. “I love the big slide,” Evie tells me. “I like how it’s really bushy and stuff, and I just like nature,” Poppy says.

What at first seems like a strange mishmash of garden styles is a purposeful tribute to the eras and peoples who came before. I learn as I walk.

WHO WILL YOU FIND THERE?

Pipemakers Park is heaving. There are joggers on the river track and couples walking pooches on leads.

As I meander, I am greeted by stumbling toddlers excited by all the nooks to explore.

In the playground, there are so many kids having fun. Parents, grandparents, friends and babysitters are perched on benches or logs around its perimeter.

Some on their laptops take the opportunity to get some work done while the kids are gleefully distracted. I chat with Leone Clay, who is at the park with her two granddaughters, Poppy, 9, and Evie, 7.

“I was blown away when I got out of the car, walked down here and saw how beautiful it is,” Clay says.

“The kids are having an absolute ball, loving the atmosphere – it’s just so natural. I think it is a bit of a secret.”

HOW TO GET THERE 2 Van Ness Avenue, Maribyrnong ■

Free parking at the

entrance WHAT’S NEARBY?

The exciting playground is a hit with both kids

Enjoy a longer stroll around this portion of the lovely Maribyrnong River Trail, which follows the river through the north-western suburbs. A ride along the shared path on the water’s edge is a real treat.

and carers.

■

Catch the 57 tram

to Clyde Street/ Raleigh Road (stop 42) and walk about 15 minutes, or catch the 82 tram to Gordon

PICK UP A PICNIC

Street/River Street

There aren’t many shops around here, but it isn’t an issue with Highpoint only a 10-minute walk from the park. Head into the shopping centre and grab picnic ingredients from the Gourmet Deli House, specialising in high-quality goods, deli meats, gourmet pastas, olives and more. ●

and walk for about 10 minutes

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE

Level 2, Highpoint Shopping Centre, 120-200

MELBOURNE PARK?

Rosamond Road, Maribyrnong

Tell us: editorial@

● highpoint.com.au

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FEATURE HOUSE BEAUMARIS \ 6 CORAL AVENUE 5

3

3

Designed by Clare Cousins Architects, this award-winning home adds a distinctive presence to Beaumaris’ portfolio of outstanding houses. The stunning design on a corner allotment is a family home that delivers privacy, northfacing sunlight, a high level of stylish functionality and a warm, serene atmosphere.

The home is built over three levels. At ground level, the warmth of timber is featured in window frames, joinery, as a fireplace and television feature wall, in the staircase and its walls, and as the ceiling in the extraordinary semi-circular lounge with built-in leather seating all the way around with glazing behind.

Travertine is used for the floors and bagged brick walls add texture. It’s a stunning, sophisticated and timeless materials palette.

In the kitchen, blackbutt timber is used in the island bench and the remaining joinery is white with marble splash backs.

Integrated Liebherr refrigeration, Miele appliances and a huge pantry make daily meals and entertaining easy. The kitchen connects to a courtyard.

The living and dining area looks out to the 10-metre pool and spa lined with black Japanese tiles. In the garden, a pavilion has an integrated barbecue, a sink and preparation area, storage and a fabulous open fire.

Upstairs, the staircase separates the main bedroom suite from the children’s rooms. In the parents’ zone, the en suite is luxurious and has a free-standing bath, dual basins and a Juliet balcony. The walk-in wardrobe is generous and a void to the living area adds to the sense of separation. One of the

FINAL WORD

other bedrooms has an en suite and the family bathroom is large.

“AN EXTRAORDINARY AND BEAUTIFUL CLARE COUSINS-DESIGNED

The lower ground floor is home to a luxurious theatre room with a Bang & Olufsen sound system and 135-inch screen.

There is also a 700-bottle temperature-controlled cellar, gym and store room.

The house has climate control, smartphone automation, security, a laundry chute, drying cupboard and there is boat parking. It is close to Ricketts Point, shopping, restaurants, cafes and schools. It is zoned for Beaumaris Secondary College. ● BEVERLEY JOHANSON property@domainreview.com.au Agent: Hodges, Michael Cooney 0418 325 052 Price: $5 million-$5.5 million Expressions of interest: close August 12

Hover your camera over the code to see Domain listings in Beaumaris

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MASTERPIECE SET IN ECKERSLEY GARDENS THAT EXUDES A WARMTH AND GENEROSITY RARELY FOUND IN A FAMILY HOME.” MICHAEL COONEY – AGENT

ST ANDREWS BEACH \

rumpus room. On the first floor, taking

150-154 BASS MEADOWS BOULEVARD

advantage of the views, living areas dominate with the warm glow of timber

7

4

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ALBERT PARK \ 16 DUNDAS PLACE

replete with a fireplace, stone benchtops and stainless steel appliances. Part the

3

2

glass doors here for a wide connection

floors and the relaxing atmosphere

with the terraced backyard, where a

generated by huge decks looking out to

Period up front, modernised inside and

built-in barbecue, built-in seating and a

Ocean views stretching over the southern

sea. Two bedrooms with en suites are also

concluding with a fuss-free backyard, this

whopping dose of northerly orientation

peninsula and across Bass Strait are a

on this level. ● BEVERLEY JOHANSON

double-fronted, free-standing Victorian

create a fine setting for outdoor

feature of Moonahridge, a large home

home is in great shape. Proximity to the

socialising. ● KAY KEIGHERY

set on about 6849 square metres and

beach, MSAC, Albert Park Village and the

designed for privacy, relaxation and

South Melbourne Market means you can

entertaining. On the ground floor, the

swim and shop locally. Lacework adorns

house comprises two sections built either

the full-width, front verandah. The central

side of a covered terrace. In one section

Agent: Kay & Burton,

hall gives on to three bedrooms (including

Agent: Marshall White,

are a home theatre, study, bedrooms and

Liz Jensen 0418 446 228

the main with en suite) and a bathroom-

Sarah Wood 0408 902 827

bathroom; in the other, three bedrooms

Price: $4 million-$4.4 million

laundry combo. A door the end of the hall

Price: $3 million-$3.3million

and a bathroom are ranged around a

Contact agent

heralds a kitchen, dining and living hub

Auction: 2.30pm, August 7

SANDRINGHAM \

meals hub abetted by a large butler’s

RICHMOND \

floor. Wet areas are tiled and luxurious

19 PELLEW STREET

pantry. Head upstairs for four bedrooms

39 LYNDHURST STREET

carpet is laid elsewhere. The dwelling

and a retreat, with the palatial main

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4

4

bedroom adjoining the front balcony

has ducted heating, airconditioning and

3

2

1

and the retreat opening to a wraparound

close to restaurants, cafes, the MCG and

Seven-bedroom accommodation is

balcony at the rear. Sharing the lush

The robust, industrial heritage of the

uncommon in the Melbourne metropolitan

backyard with a lagoon pool and spa, the

former malthouse lends character and

area. Flaunting that and with a beaut

studio is a mini house, presented similarly

heft to this distinctive apartment. At

backyard, this five-bedroom home with

to the main and enjoying its own, garden-

ground-floor level, the spacious living areas

a self-contained, two-bedroom studio

view deck. ● KAY KEIGHERY

dominate with a void and skylights adding

should excite large families and people

excellent storage. It is on Richmond Hill and transport. ● BEVERLEY JOHANSON

volume and bringing in light. The white and

seeking sleek digs for intergenerational

Agent: Whitefox,

timber kitchen is well equipped and there

living. The facade of the custom-built pile

Lana Samuels 0435 165 633

is access to a landscaped barbecue area.

Agent: Marshall White,

stages a stylish welcome. Ground level

Price: $4 million-$4.25 million

Jarrah stairs take you to the bedrooms.

Richard Mackinnon 0414 822 579

comprises a bedroom, bathroom, laundry,

Expressions of interest: close 5pm,

There are two bathrooms upstairs and a

Price: $1.525 million-$1.675 million

lounge-dining room and a kitchen-family-

July 29

powder room and laundry on the ground

Auction: 12.30pm, August 14

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5 B 3 b 2 c1s

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A B C 18

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4a

MALVERN 26 Wheatland Road An unwavering attention to detail combined with an uncompromised level of crème de la crème, ontrend finishes delivers a spectacular family setting in this flawlessly renovated and extended 4bedroom, 2-bathroom home. Anchored by a culinary kitchen, the stunning open living and dining room complements a sitting/playroom, fitted study, alfresco deck and garden. Leaving nothing to be desired, a tantalizing lifestyle awaits in a prime position.

AUCTION Saturday August 7 at 1:30pm VIEW See website for details

2b

1v

Sam Inan 0433 076 999 Adam Joske 0414 337 979 Maria Hunt 0413 187 188

belleproperty.com/st-kilda

WITHOUT EQUAL Sub-penthouse 1405 for sale — A home with over 50m of window frontage to the bay, Albert Park Lake and Boulevard The ultimate-luxury, three bedroom, three and a half bathroom sub-penthouse sparing no expense to bring the most exquisite craftsmanship and luxury detailing to life. michael paproth 0488 300 800

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Shortlist and share your favourite properties Tap the star to save properties you love, and invite someone to shortlist with you.

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This brand-new free-standing freehold four-bedroom chalet has been designed from the ground up for the family that demands the space to entertain and enjoys the company of friends while on holiday at Australia’s premier mountain.

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The Victorian Equal Opportunity Act 1995 makes it unlawful for an advertiser to show any intention to discriminate on the basis of sex, pregnancy, race, age, marital status, political or religious belief or physical features, disability, lawful sexual activity/sexual orientation, HIV/AIDS status or on the basis of being associated with a person with one of the above characteristics, unless covered by an exception under the Act. As Network Classifieds could be legally liable if an unlawful advertisement is printed, Network Classifieds will not accept advertisements that appear to break the law. For more information about discrimination in advertising, contact your legal advisers or the Equal Opportunity Commission.

P PYKES FURNITURE

TREE SERVICES

REMOVALS

• Large Tree Specialists • Hedge Trimming Experts • Stump Grinding • Mulch Available • Consulting Arborist

REASONABLE, RELIABLE AND GREAT RATES! Home - Office and Commercial removals Pre-packaging - All South Eastern Suburbs

$20 million insurance

Free Quotes

• No Fuss • No Mess • No Stress

0428 720 921 - 0400 537 545 12503019-NG29-21

ROOF RESTORATION SPECIALISTS

Truffles Patisserie

All types of roofing & carpentry

Truffles Patisserie is located on the corner of Carlisle St & Chapel Street in St Kilda.

Offering delicious modern Breakfast options, Morning Coffee Happy hour, freshly made crispy filled croissants, healthy salad options, lunch and to bring our heritage to Melbourne we offer delicious Polish cuisine with a modern twist.

• Roof Painting • Leak Repairs • Roof Washing • Ridge Tile Rebedding • Gutter Repairs & Cleaning • Fully Insured

If that’s not enough finish off with a selection of our famous cheesecakes, danishes, doughnuts & a large variety of our house-made cakes. Catering & Event options available!

SPECIAL Gutter Cleaning

20%off

DISCOUNT On Full Roof Restoration

Must mention coupon on enquiry. Conditions apply.

One call, we do it all!

Call now for a FREE quote

0405 817 173

Open 7 days a week - even during lockdown!

Home delivery available, min order $50 (within 10km radius) www.trufflespatisserie.com.au - 03 9042 1889

DENUDED BLACK LABEL EYE FILLET ROAST

ONLY

38

$

KG

ONLY

2899KG

$

99

Valid til 7th August

8 WEEKS AGE WHOLE BLACK LABEL PORTERHOUSE HALVES

With Coupon

Valid til 7th August

With Coupon

TENDER LAMB SHOULDER WITH WHOLE GRASS FED EYE FILLET TRUFFLE & TUSCAN HERBS

ONLY

1999KG

$

Valid til 7th August 12505622-JW31-21

With Coupon

ONLY

3299KG

$

12505470-CG31-21

120

12503663-SN29-21

Is your roof ready for the next storm?

Have you noticed damp or mouldy spots on your ceiling? $

12465215-JW42-20

9720 5111

www.pykesfurnitureremovals.com

12505523-DL31-21

DAWSONS

Valid til 7th August

With Coupon

Join our FREE Membership program online at pierosmeatmerchant.com.au

To advertise on this page phone 1300 666 808

SI NCE 1978 BATHROOMS

FIREPLACES

HARDWARE

DOORS

LIGHTING

FURNITURE

OUTDOORS

TILES

FLOORING

EXPLORE THE BENEFITS TODAY - IT’S FREE

WAYS TO SHOP

1300 774 774

CLICK & COLLECT

SHOP ONLINE

1300 694 694

OPEN TO TRADES

1300 693 693

AUS WIDE DELIVERY

1300 463 353

HOMEWARES