Modern Tire Dealer - Performance Handbook 2015

Supplement to Modern Tire Dealer

HANDBOOK 2015 Balancing performance tires The impact of plus-sizing NVH issues and answers Wheel fasteners

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Features

Editorial: Hyperactive imagination Even if carmakers get crazy, tires remain accessible | Page 4

NVH issues and answers Start your investigation with the tires and wheels | Page 6

Balancing performance tires There is little room for error when it comes to customer satisfaction | Page 14

Plus-sizing overview The impact of plus-sizing on vehicle performance dynamics | Page 18

Wheel fasteners Understanding the nuts and bolts of wheel clamping | Page 32

D E PA R T M E N T S

37-54 Performance Showcase 55-57 Performance Datafle 58-59 Performance Directory

61 Quik-Link 62 Marketplace

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Editorial

Hyperactive imagination Even if carmakers get crazy, tires remain accessible

Y

ou may have noticed the sweet looking, perhaps unfamiliar monster of a vehicle on our front cover.

That is a hypercar, specifcally a 2015 GTA Spano from Spania GTA Tecnomotive S.L. It fea-

with the visit every 17 years by cicadas, you get the point.)

They are the epitome of advanced vehicle engineering.

How advanced? In its June 2013 issue, Car and Driver said they are not, in any conventional sense, cars at all.

“They are idols, expressions of an ideal, advertising, fodder for bedroom-wall posters.”

In the case of the GTA Spano, only 99 of them will be built. You will never see that vehicle in your dealership.

Or any of the other hypercars, such as the Ferrari LaFerrari, McLaren P1, Lamborghini Veneno, Bugatti Veyr on, Lyk an Hypersport, Pagani Huayra or Koenigsegg Agera.

A special edition Koenigsegg Agera was on display at the 2015 New York International Auto Show.

tures a V10 twin-turbo engine capable of 925 horsepower. And a $650,000 price tag.

What the heck is a hypercar, anyway? At the very least it’s a catchy name for a supercar.

At most it’s an exaggerated supercar — think super supercar.

Hypercars are especially rare, expensive and limited in number. Car and Driver says they appear “about as often as plagues of locusts.” (Whether the magazine meant a plague as found in the Bible or confused that almost supernatural event 4

Want to see one in person? Attend the annual Geneva International Motor Show in Switzerland next March.

But you will see the original equipment tires on the GTA Spano: the Pirelli P Zero. The hypercar has staggered ftments from front (255/35ZR19) to rear (335/30ZR20). The wheel sizes are 19x9.5 and 20x12, respectively.

Pirelli and Cie SpA is one of only two tire manufacturers that make both those sizes. If the owner wanted to replace the Pirelli’s with another max performance brand, the only

other tire choice would be the Michelin Pilot Super Sport.

The 335/30ZR20 is a rare size.

However, the 255/35ZR19 is not. You may see a MercedesBenz CLS550 or Audi A5 Coupe at your dealership, and if you do, you have a lot of options.

The Tire Rack lists 78 tire alternatives based on price or load-carrying capacity and 13 different brands. In addition to Pirelli and Michelin, there are Bridgestone, Continental, Dunlop, Goodyear, Hankook, Kumho, Sumitomo, Toyo, Yokohama, BFGoodrich and General tires in that size.

A little more Web research uncovers Ohtsu, Nexen, Falken, Nitto and Cooper tires in size 255/35ZR19. Even size-appropriate low-cost radials from China are available.

If you want to plus-size, the vehicle only needs to come with size 215/60R16 (Plus-1) or 225/50R17 (Plus-2) tires in order to reach 255/35ZR19.

The point? There are two.

First, staggered sizing aside, you have a lot of replacement performance tire (and wheel) options open to you, almost no matter what kind of vehicle drives into your shop.

And second, even max performance tires can turn up on the strangest of vehicles, so be prepared.

One day they are OE on a hypercar or a luxury coupe. The next they become a standard ftment on a mid-size sedan. If you don’t think that’s realistic, who would have ever thought a size 225/45R18 V-rated tire would be OE on a Toyota Camry? — Bob Ulrich If you have any questions or comments, please email me at bob.ulrich@bobit.com.

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Feature

NVH issues and answers Start your investigation with the tires and wheels

By Mike Mavrigian

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Courtesy Hunter

n this article, we’ll address a variety of noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) issues.

We’ll also offer tips on how to avoid and/or cure these ills.

When trying to solve NVH problems, a good place to start is with the tire and wheel assemblies.

point of maximum RFV with the wheel’s point of minimal radial runout (high point of tire to low point of wheel).

Radial force variation is a term that relates to a tire-sourced out-of-round/vibration that occurs, and masks itself as an imbalance vibration, only under dynamic conditions... when the wheel and tire package rolls in

Examples of tire and wheel vibrational issues. The illustration at the top depicts an imbalance condition wherein dynamic imbalance results in the tire’s contact patch deviating from the axle center as the wheel rotates. The center row is an example of radial runout, where the wheel is not properly centered on the hub. The bottom row depicts radial force variation where a high spot on the tire (or an area of the tire that is more dense/stiffer than the rest of the tire) is present.

Tire radial force variation In addition to dynamic balance of a tire/wheel assembly, we need to consider tire radial force variation (RFV) when diagnosing tire-related vibrations that occur at varying speeds and conditions. Ideally, the wheel should be phase matched to align the tire’s 6

a loaded state. It must be noted that the term “radial” refers to forces applied at the radius of the tire, not to the type of tire construction. Radial force vibration could potentially occur with any type of tire, regardless of its construction (radial, bias ply, etc.). In other words, a radial force variation may prove

to be the cause of a vibration that won’t reveal itself during a static or dynamic balance job, or by checking the mounted tire for runout in an unloaded state.

Radial force is determined by measuring loaded radial runout.

According to Hunter Engineering’s research, on an average passenger car tire/wheel assembly, one thousandth of an inch (0.001 inch) of loaded radial runout is equivalent to approximately one pound of road force.

For example, a measured 0.030 inch of loaded radial runout (about 30 pounds of road force) will cause the same amount of vibration as 1.5 ounces of wheel imbalance at 50 mph, which is fve times greater than the .30 ounce imbalance limit.

Tire makers usually supply a red dot on the tire sidewall, which indicates the tire’s maximum RFV, or the highest point of radial runout. When mounting the tire, this red dot should be aligned to a white dot on the wheel (if the wheel is so marked).

The white dot on the wheel indicates the wheel rim’s minimum radial runout point (on a steel wheel, a dimple may be featured that indicates the wheel’s low point).

When using alloy wheels that don’t feature a white dot, the tire’s red dot should be aligned with the valve stem, as this should be the minimum radial runout point.

A yellow dot may be found on the tire sidewall which indicates the lightest point of the tire (in terms of weight from a balance consideration).

If a yellow dot is found, this should be aligned to the wheel’s valve stem, which should be

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NVH issues and answers the wheel’s heavy spot in terms of balance. Even if dynamic wheel balance (from a standpoint of weight) is correct, misalignment of the red and white dots will likely result in a vibration complaint. On OE tires and wheels, always align the red tire dot and the white wheel dot (or valve hole, in the case of alloy wheels) when mounting. If the tire features a red dot and a yellow dot, the red

• However, it has been found that aligning the red dot on the tire to the low radial runout point of the wheel doesn’t always correct a potential RFV, although in theory it should.

Use of a load force machine is the most accurate method of correcting for RFV. When a customer complains of a “tire vibration,” although the root cause may simply involve a static imbalance, other factors may be at play, including a static radial runout of the wheel and/ or tire, a suspension/chassis problem, or a dynamic-only runout condition, known as radial force variation of the tire.

If static imbalance is the culprit, this is easily cured by balancing the tire/wheel assembly. If runout is the cause, this can be cured by replacing the faulty wheel or tire; or possibly by match-mounting the tire/wheel package. However, when that approach does not fx the problem, the technician must begin a diagnostic approach in order to locate the cause.

Courtesy Nucap

Radial runout

These overhead views serve to illustrate excessive lateral disc runout (left) and a corrected brake disc alignment with the use of an appropriately selected brake alignment shim.

dot is more critical and should be aligned with the wheel’s low point (dimple or valve stem).

• Red dot on tire: Align to the wheel’s low-point dimple (steel wheel) or to the valve stem (alloy wheel), or to a white dot on the wheel if the wheel features a white dot.

• Yellow dot on tire: Align to the wheel’s valve stem.

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When a “mystery” vibration enters the shop, approach the problem in a systematic manner to eliminate possible variables.

Naturally, check the tire/wheel assembly for balance on your shop’s balancer. If dynamic balance is verified, begin measuring for excessive runout.

First check hub runout in order to identify or eliminate the hub as the possible root cause of the problem.

With the wheel/tire removed from the vehicle, check the runout of the hub. This can be tricky because of clearance at the wheel studs, but can be accomplished with enough patience.

If the wheel is hub-centric (where the wheel relies on hub centering at the wheel hub hole to the hub protrusion), you’ll

want to check the runout of the hub itself, at the contact area for the wheel’s center hole. If the hub center protrudes far enough from the wheel studs, mount the dial indicator so that the plunger contacts the hub surface. In some cases, it may be necessary to remove the wheel studs to gain access to the hub contact area. Preload the plunger slightly and zero the dial. Rotate the hub slowly, watching for runout on the gauge.

If the wheel is lug-centric (as we mentioned earlier, where the wheel-to-hub centering relies on the location of the wheel fastener holes to the hub’s studs only), you can mount the dial indicator so that the plunger is about .040” away from the outer edge of the wheel stud pattern diameter.

Using a feeler gauge, check for changes in the gap between the dial indicator plunger and the outer edge of the wheel studs as you slowly rotate the hub 360-degrees. Granted, this can be a time-consuming and nit-picky job, but this will either recognize the wheel-tohub mating as the culprit, or eliminate this variable from your diagnosis. NOTE: Do not use the outer edge of the brake rotor as your measurement point when trying to check hub runout. You must take this measurement at the centering area that the wheel uses, whether this is the hub (for hub-centric wheels) or the wheel studs (for lug-centric wheels).

Shimmy Wheel shimmy (steering wheel right/left oscillation) can be caused by a number of variables. Follow an organized step-by-step inspection: 1. Inspect the tires for excessive and uneven wear, and inspect for tire structural damage (badly deformed sidewall, etc.). Poorly constructed

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NVH issues and answers 6. Inspect the mating faces at the rear of the wheel, rotor hat and hub face. A buildup of corrosion can cause a lateral runout condition. Clean all surfaces as needed.

7. Check for lateral runout at the hub itself.

8. Inspect the wheel rims for damage (bent rims, signs of

Courtesy Nucap

tires or damaged tires where plies are misaligned or separating can cause a shimmy/ vibration. Check the tire and wheel for proper bead seating along the entire bead circumference on both sides. An improperly seated bead will create a radial runout condition.

2. Inspect and adjust tire infa-

A brake alignment shim is placed between the hub and rotor, oriented to correct lateral runout.

tion pressure. Low or uneven pressures on the same axle can cause pulls or wander.

3. Check for lateral runout.

Using a dial indicator at the wheel rim, slowly rotate the wheel (on the vehicle) a full 360 degrees, noting maximum lateral runout. If excessive lateral runout is found, don’t automatically blame the wheel, since runout may be the result of hub or rotor runout and/or a stack-up of tolerances between the hub, rotor hat and wheel.

4. Before removing the wheel/ tire assembly, with the suspension unloaded, check for wheel bearing looseness by rocking the tire inward/outward at the 12 and 6-o’clock positions.

5. Remove the wheel/tire assembly and inspect the wheel fasteners (studs and nuts or bolts, depending on design).

Damaged threads can be an indication of abuse/over-tightening which can contribute to wheel/hub distortion.

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pothole/impact damage).

9. Check/adjust each tire/ wheel assembly for dynamic balance.

10. Inspect the entire steering and suspension system. Looseness (caused by wear, damage or improper installation) can contribute to a shimmy, in addition to wander and directional pull.

11. On the alignment rack, measure all angles, paying particular attention to caster angles. An excessively positive caster (caster angle beyond factory specification for the specifc vehicle) can promote a shimmy condition.

12. During reinstallation of wheels to the vehicle, always use a torque wrench and follow both the specifed torque value and tightening pattern.

Balancing tips Centering of the wheel, both on the balancer and the vehicle hub is critical. If incorrectly

mounted on the balancer, a precision balance won’t be possible.

By the same token, a wheel that is correctly centered (and balanced) on a dynamic balancing machine won’t be able to duplicate the balance (and road force variation variable) if incorrectly centered onto the vehicle hub.

Most wheels are mounted to a balancing machine with a tapered cone that centers the wheel onto the balancer’s shaft. Cones are available with different tapers. Cones that feature a low taper are preferable to better center the wheel. Back-cone mounting is preferred (where the cone mounts from the backside of the wheel).

However, some wheel designs will not center using back-cone mounting. In these cases, frontcone mounting is required, where the cone centers the wheel from the outer side of the wheel.

When using the back-cone method, once the clamping cup and wing nut secures the wheel, depress the foot pedal to hold the spindle in place, and slowly roll the wheel towards you during initial tightening of the wing nut. This helps the wheel to roll up the taper of the cone, instead of trying to force the wheel to slide onto the cone.

When using the front-cone method, pull the top of the wheel/tire away from the hub face while tightening the wing nut. This will help to overcome the force of gravity and improve wheel centering on the machine.

• Verify wheel centering on the vehicle.

• During tire mounting/infation, if inflation limit is exceeded, defate, loosen tire bead and re-infate.

• Match-mount tire to wheel

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NVH issues and answers using balance/high spot dots where available.

• Verify the wheel centering on the balancer before beginning spinning.

• Always use two-plane dynamic

Shake, futter and shimmy Inspect all 4 tires and wheels frst Body shake, steering futter and steering shimmy complaints all involve pinpoint diagnosis of the same components. The condition of the component is what determines which of the symptoms occur. The wheels and tires offer a good starting point, especially if the NVH Analyzer identifes this area as the generating force of the vibration.

Tire and wheel inspection includes checking all four tires regarding manufacturer, size and specifcations. Proper tire pressure is also an important item to confrm. Look for damage, deformation and wear. The technician should also rotate the tire and wheel assembly, inspecting both the sidewall and tread to look for obvious conditions caused by road damage, fat spots or runout. It’s also vital to inspect and feel the tread for unusual wear patterns.

Check the tire and wheel for proper bead seating along the entire bead circumference on both sides. An improperly seated bead will create a radial runout condition.

Check hub-to-wheel centering to verify that the clearance is even and within the target value of 0.004 in. (0.1 mm) maximum. If the clearance is out of spec, rotate the wheel (wheel clock position relative to the hub). If the clearance is still out of specifcation, check the hub for runout to determine if the condition is in the hub or the wheel.

balancing, even for hidden weights.

• Adjust tire infation per vehicle specifcations.

• Verify wheel centering when fnal-installed to the vehicle.

Hub-centric and lug-centric wheels The terms hub-centric and lug-centric refer to the manner in which the wheels center onto the hubs.

If the wheel relies on centering at the hub, it’s hub-centric.

If the wheel relies on centering by the fastener locations, it’s lug-centric.

If the wheel is not centered 12

onto the hub, radial runout will occur, resulting in a vibration/ bounce.

Some aftermarket custom wheels that are designed for hub-centric centering may be made with a large center hole that will accommodate the largest hub in a certain vehicle application.

In order to adapt the wheel (and retain centering), hubcentric rings are required (for example to reduce the hub hole from 88 mm to 72 mm, etc., in order to center onto another vehicle make/model.

If the hub rings are not installed, and the wheel center hole is larger than needed for the hub in question, you can’t necessarily rely on the fastener locations to properly center the wheel on the hub.

Multi-pattern wheels are available in the aftermarket, designed to provide a ftment to more than one bolt circle dimension.

While some of these wheels feature multiple bolt holes (for instance, 10 holes where the application is intended for a fve-bolt hub), some multipattern wheels feature oblong lug holes, designed to accommodate more than one bolt circle.

Instead of the holes being round, they’re oval shaped, allowing mating to likely two bolt circle diameters.

In theory these wheels should be hub-centric so that the wheels are properly centered to the hubs.

These wheels are not very common today, but if you encounter them, extra attention to wheel centering is a must.

After mounting to the hubs, check for radial runout (visually at first, then with a dial indicator).

Inexpensive aftermarket wheels may feature slightly oversized bolt holes and oversized center holes, which can easily create a radial runout

condition, resulting in a “thumping” vibration.

Check hub-to-wheel centering to verify that the clearance is even and within the target value of 0.004 inch (0.1 mm) maximum. If the clearance is out of spec, rotate the wheel (wheel clock position relative to the hub).

If the clearance is still out of specifcation, check the hub for runout to determine if the condition is in the hub or the wheel.

While we’re considering wheel centering, it’s important to note that if the wheel is centered improperly on the balancer, and installed properly centered on the hub, or if properly centered on the balancer but improperly centered on the vehicle hub, a vibrational problem is bound to occur.

If the wheel does not provide a precise “slip ft” onto the hub (being centered by the hub/ hub-centric), extra care needs to be taken to center the wheel during installation.

This situation can be common for some budget level aftermarket wheels.

Wheel bearings/hub bearings Loose, worn or improperly installed front wheel bearings/ hub-bearing assemblies can contribute to shimmy/wander, and will make proper wheel alignment impossible.

Always check wheel bearing condition prior to any alignment work, and be sure to measure hub fanges for lateral runout.

Note that some bargain-basement-priced hub assemblies may feature short-lived bearings and may feature excessive lateral runout.

High-quality, precision-made hub assemblies produced by reputable makers offer higher quality bearings and tighter runout tolerances to avoid NVH issues. ■

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Feature

Balancing performance tires There is little room for error when it comes to customer satisfaction

By Kevin Rohlwing

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Balancing performance tires

S

aying technology has changed over the last decade might be one of the greatest understatements that I’ve ever made. In 2005, tire pressure monitoring systems

(ABS) and electronic stability control (ESC) were options. And people who thought the Blackberry was a smartphone were surprised when the frst video was uploaded to a new video hosting service called YouTube.

Consumer expectations also have changed over the last 10 years. To most people, Yelp was something you did when you pinched your fnger and the Internet was used for research and not for online reviews. If a customer had a problem with a retailer, he might complain about it to his friends or fle an offcial complaint with the Better Business Bureau, but that was the extent of it. Today’s consumer is Modern balancing equipment takes precise measurements of the tire/wheel assembly after it has been a highly connected smartphone mounted on the balancer. In this instance, the measure- addict who has, at his fngertips, ments are down to the millimeter and 10th of an inch. someone else’s bad experience for every business documented for eternity. There is little room for mistakes in 2015. The tire industry is just like every other retail business in the sense that customer expectations are too often borderline unrealistic.

Many of them still remember the days when tire companies advertised new tire prices that started at $19.99. Of course, that was for a P155/80R13, which only ft a handful of the cars When an SUV tire and wheel assembly was mounted on at the time, but the perception balancer using the front cup and back cone system, the ma- was enough for consumers to chine detected considerable lateral and radial rim runout. believe that inexpensive tires were available. According to data published by Modern Tire Dealer, the total number of replacement passenger tires shipped in 2005 was 205.8 million. Last year, that number was 206.6 million. However, in 2005, the total performance tire market was about 43 million tires; last year, it was just over 70 million. In other words, while the total number of replacement tires hasn’t changed much over When the same assembly was mounted on the balancer the last decade, the percentusing the back cone and the pin plate, the machine deage of high performance and tected minimal lateral and radial rim runout. ultra-high performance tires (TPMS) were primarily reserved has increased dramatically. This for high-end luxury and sports explains why more and more cars. Anti-lock braking systems people are driving “regular” 16

cars with performance tires. For consumers, this means the days of low cost replacement tires are rapidly coming to a close.

The average overall price of a passenger tire has surpassed the $100 mark. For that kind of money, motorists expect a lot more, and they are less likely to overlook something like a vibration. Once they accept that performance tires are their best option, the hard work begins.

Again, expectations are raised because they are anticipating a replacement tire that will perform at the same level as the original equipment ftment. The tire can’t do it alone.

Balancing act From the balance perspective, it starts with the mounting process. The frst step is to thoroughly clean the bead seat areas of the rim with a wire brush. Dirt, corrosion and foreign material trapped between the beads and the rim will not allow the tire to concentrically seat on the rim.

Non-concentrically seated beads are an automatic source of imbalance that cannot be overcome by even the most technologically advanced balancing machines. I’m a big fan of paste-type bead lubricants because they seem to do the best job of allowing the beads to seat evenly while providing the best anti-corrosive properties down the road.

Another technique that has proven to be effective for concentrically seating the beads is to infate the tire to the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall before completely defating it. This gives the beads a chance to seat against the rim fanges and then relax before infating the tire a second time to the recommended infation pressure listed on the vehicle tire placard. It takes a little extra time, but studies have shown that this practice does improve Continued on page 24...

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Plus-sizing overview

The impact of plus-sizing on vehicle performance dynamics

By Wayne Williams

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s bigger better? Does a wider footprint always translate into better handling?

The Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA) Wheel & Tire Council (WTC) and Clemson University’s International Center for Automotive Research (CU-ICAR) together set out to understand the effects of plus-sizing — the dynamics associated with the changing of wheels, offsets, tire sidewall heights, wheel diameters and other associated modifcations.

The quest was to specifcally and scientifcally understand vehicle handling dynamics related to the customization of wheels and tires.

Test subject

Every day, consumers ask retail tire dealers these questions: • “Will plus-sizing my vehicle’s tires make my car handle better?”

• “Will I get better traction?”

• “Will that give me a harder ride?”

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The researchers selected a frequently modified vehicle — A m e r i c a ’s t o p - s e l l i n g truck, the Ford F-150. After months of testing and evaluation at CU-ICAR’s Greenville, S.C., campus, the results were very interesting. Though they supported long-standing industry beliefs, the specifcs were eye opening.

In many cases, shorter sidewalls did not translate into a harsher ride. The difference in harshness was less than generally understood and much less than anticipated.

The facts support the idea that customers can have it all — better handling, better directional response, better steering response, better steering frmness and road grip — without sacrifcing ride comfort.

Upon receipt of the scientifc data, the team at WTC reformatted the data into a usable and understandable format that is consumer-friendly and named it the Ride Guide.

The Ride Guide outlines

the basics of plus-sizing, section width, sidewall height and outside diameter, but more importantly, it specifically describes the individual results in a bar graph that is more accurate and predictive of fnal dynamics after a vehicle wheel and tire modifcation is completed.

The Ride Guide is just that, a guide that assists aftermarket providers in setting and realizing customer expectations.

Now sales associates can give consumers a defnitive answer to their most common question: “Can you tell me before I spend my money how tire and wheel plus-sizing is going to affect the ride quality and handling of my vehicle?”

Since the initial testing of the 2013 Ford F-150, CU-ICAR has tested the 2014 Chevrolet Silverado with similar fndings, and they’re just wrapping up results on the 2014 Mazda3. The next target market is the wildly popular American muscle car segment with the frst scheduled testing of the new Ford Mustang.

In today’s digital marketplace, information is easily accessible; however, good, reliable and professional information, not so much. The victory goes to the prepared Those dealerships that deliver the best solutions, the most professional answers and have the ability to master the total customer experience will win both the customer and the business.

A copy of the Ride Guide is available through these sources: SEMA at www.sema.org and the WTC at www.sema.org/wtc. ■

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Balancing performance tires ...Continued from page 16

uniformity and concentric bead seating. You can check to see if the beads are concentri-

The easy way to mount an SUV tire and wheel assembly on a balancer is to use the front cup and back cone method, but that doesn’t guarantee the best possible balance.

This method takes a little more time to set the pin positions, but ultimately the quality of the balance is much better when service technicians use the pin plate.

The pin plate creates a more accurate and centered position on the shaft of the balancer by using the bolt holes and the center bore to mount the assembly on the balancer.

cally seated by measuring the distance between the rim fange edge and the molded ribs on the lower sidewall. According to industr y recommendations, there cannot be more than 2/32 of an inch variation 24

in that distance. Personally, I believe that any variation in the distance between the rim fange and the molded ribs is unacceptable, especially when mounting performance tires that will be installed on vehicles with more highly tuned suspension systems. It doesn’t always take a lot of imbalance for the driver to notice that something is wrong, so making sure the tire is centered on the rim must be the frst step.

The next step is a combination of technology and training.

Modern tire balancing machines have advanced diagnostic and runout measurement capabilities. They are capable of matching the high spot of the tire with the low spot of the rim to ensure the best uniformity of the rotating assembly. They can even make recommendations on where the tires should be installed on the vehicle for the best ride.

Again, the per formance customer is expecting a lot more when it comes to ride and handling, so having the capability to match-mount tires is often necessary.

In the case of the economy car driver who is forced into a performance tire purchase, it might not be critical. But the true performance car driver of a performance automobile is unwilling to accept anything less than perfection. And for the SUV owner who spends upward of $200 per tire, even the slightest vibration is unacceptable, so taking the extra steps to ensure the balance is as good as possible is just good business.

But all the advanced balancing technology on the planet is worthless in the hands of a technician who is not trained to utilize the features on the machine. Too many retailers go out and spend tens of thousands of dollars on the latest and greatest balancers only

to watch technicians set the machine to static because they don’t know how to use tape weights. And while the technology is there to make sure the larger SUV and light truck tires are as balanced as they can be, poorly trained and unmotivated employees continue to take the easy route resulting in costly comebacks and potentially bad reviews on the dreaded Internet.

If I’m spending almost $1,000 on a set of performance tires, I expect a lot more than a basic static/dynamic balance.

Maybe the solution is to offer different levels of tire balancing.

For customers who are primarily interested in saving money, the simple static and dynamic balance is the way to go (and possibly included in the price of the tire.)

On the other hand, the performance or SUV customer might see the value in paying a little more for advanced balancing technology.

Of course, that means the salesperson has to sell the value related to a match-mount, roadforce, laser-guided tire balance.

Premium tire balancing services can be marketed and sold in a way that makes it worth the investment to train technicians to effectively use all of the available technology to achieve the best possible balance.

The fnal step of performance tire balancing in a performance world is to invest in a set of pin-plate adaptors. It doesn’t make much sense to install the assembly on the balancer with the standard front cap and back cone when balancing performance tires, unless of course the technician is going to slap a weight on the back fange for a static balance.

If you are going to the trouble of utilizing all of the available technology, then it only makes sense that the tire is perfectly centered on the machine. And while the back cone front cap

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Balancing performance tires method is capable of achieving some level of precision, the pin plate method has been proven as the most accurate method for securing and centering the assembly.

When the V-rated performance tire and wheel assembly was mounted on the balancer using the front cup and back cone method, the road force balancer detected 66 pounds of road force after force matching.

As you can see, using the pin plate and back cone on the same assembly didn’t result in signifcant improvement in the lateral and radial rim runout, but it would reduce the road force to 46 pounds after force matching.

Pin plate systems are available in a variety of different styles to accommodate the various bolt circles and different types of bolt holes on the market.

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Front caps vs. pin plates In order to demonstrate the difference between front caps and pin plates, I conducted a brief test at a local community college. In the frst test, I balanced a V-rated P255/45R18 V-rated performance tire on an alloy rim using the front cap and rear cone method. The machine that I used was capable of measuring road force, so I completed the necessary checks and measurements in order to determine how much was present. Tire road force was 74 pounds and assembly force was 68 pounds. After force matching, it could be improved to 66 pounds. When balancing the same assembly using the pin plate, the amount of tire road force improved to 54 pounds while the assembly improved to 57 pounds. After force matching, the road force would improve to 46 pounds.

It’s important to remember that nothing changed between the two balancing attempts. It was the same tire with the same settings and the only difference was the method for attaching it to the machine. In this instance, the pin plate would result in less weight being applied and a potentially better balance.

The second test involved a P275/55R20 that was installed on an SUV. Using the front cap, back cone attachment method, the tire road force was 25 pounds and the assembly road force was 26 pounds.

After force matching, it would improve to 23 pounds. But the important thing to recognize is the runout measurements.

Lateral runout was 0.029 inches on the inner fange and 0.024 inches on the outer. The radial runout was 0.018 inches on the inner flange and 0.015 inches on the outer. When the assembly was attached to the balancer using the pin plate, the differences in road force were minimal, 24 pounds for the tire

and 23 for the assembly with an improvement to 22 pounds after force matching. But the runout measurements improved to 0.003 inches and 0.004 inches for lateral with 0.005 inches and 0.007 inches for radial runout.

These tests do not endorse road force or force matching. They are just intended to demonstrate the positive impact that pin plates have on balance and runout measurement. Performance tires and SUV tires with performance expectations will deliver a better ride after balancing simply because they are more uniformly secured to the machine.

This allows the technology in any balancer to be more accurate because the properties being measured are more precise.

A changing landscape Clearly, the landscape of the replacement tire market is evolving to include more performance tires on vehicles that also are becoming more performance-oriented. And with tire prices for SUV drivers steadily climbing, customers who spend almost $1,000 for a set of four expect a higher level of vehicle performance. Balancing those tires can be accomplished a variety of different ways, but advanced balancers can achieve an unmatched level of uniformity if the features are fully utilized.

In order for that to happen, technicians must be properly trained and have access to the proper equipment, like pin plates.

Customer expectations in a performance world are signifcantly higher. Since a growing number of them are more or less forced into a performance tire purchase, the margin of error when it comes to balance is as narrow as it has ever been in the history of the tire industry.

Performance tires are guaranteed to perform to some degree, but reaching their full potential depends on balancing practices that live up the defnition. â–

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Feature

Wheel fasteners

Understanding the nuts and bolts of wheel clamping

By Mike Mavrigian Photos by author unless otherwise noted.

W

heel fasteners are arguably the most important components on any vehicle, responsible for securing the wheels to the vehicle, yet are often the

wheel fastening systems that will help installers select the correct type of fastener for a given application.

NOTE: The common method of attaching a wheel to a hub involves a group of individual threaded wheel fasteners (wheel nuts or wheel bolts), involving a pattern of four, fve, six or eight fasteners per wheel. Another type of wheel clamping system involves attaching the wheel to the hub with a single spindle nut. This is most commonly referred to as a knock-off or pin-drive system.

Wheel fastener seat styles

least understood and appreciated. This brief article offers a basic overview of the often overlooked threaded wheel fastener — how to identify it and how to handle it. This includes information dealing with fastener thread size, seat styles and torque values. Our goal is to provide clear and accurate explanations of various 28

Identifying and matching fastener seat styles is absolutely critical. The “seat” refers to the contact area between the base of the fastener head and the wheel’s fastener pocket.

Although variations exist, three basic seat styles are in common use today. These include conical, radius and fat-seat types.

Conical wheel nuts (or wheel bolts) feature a straight taper at the seat area. Conical fasteners are also called “tapered” or “cone” types. All three names refer to the same style. This type of taper is created most commonly in a 60-degree angle.

Radius seats are also called “ball” or “rounded” seats. As the name implies, the seat features a radiused “ball” shape that nestles into a ball-shaped pocket in the wheel. Many European vehicles such as Porsche and Mercedes use radius seat styles, in either nut or bolt applications.

The fat seat style is most often called a “mag” style (the term

“mag” doesn’t imply anything in terms of geometric shape, it’s simply a slang carryover from the early days of the American performance scene when race wheels were cast magnesium, and commonly used a flat seat because it was easier and cheaper to produce a round hole in a fat hub center area.

As we all know, the unfortunate misnomer “mag” has stuck with us as a catch-call to denote any custom wheel, whether it’s made of magnesium, aluminum or other alloys). Mag style (fat seat) nuts generally feature a smooth shank extension under the head, used to center the wheel and to provide needed thread engagement depth.

Never mix seat styles! If a wheel is designed for conical 60-degree seats, the only fastener seat style that can be used is a 60-degree conical type.

The same rule applies for radius and fat seat styles. Only use the correct seat style of fastener for the seat style of the given wheel. Using the incorrect seat style can, and likely will, result in fastener loosening, wheel damage, and potential tragedy due to loss of vehicle control when the wheel wobbles or separates from the vehicle. It’s simply impossible to overemphasize this point. The wheel fasteners are the only connection between the vehicle and the wheels. Without proper fastening, you’re firting with disaster.

The three most important elements of wheel fastening are: 1. Proper seat style for the wheel.

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Wheel fasteners 2. Correct thread size (diameter, pitch, length).

3. Proper clamping (torque) value.

Thread engagement Aside from selecting the proper seat style for the wheels at hand, another consideration is thread engagement. In other words, how far the nut travels over the stud, or how far the wheel bolt travels inside the hub’s threaded hole.

The rule of thumb whenever discussing threaded fastener engagement is to achieve a minimum engagement length that is equal to the diameter of the fastener’s threads. For instance, if the stud or bolt shank is 1 inch in diameter, the nut (or bolt) must engage its threads by at least 1 inch.

This provides the minimal theo-

Shown here are four examples of wheel fasteners. From left: Splinedrive nut with a conical (tapered) seat; hex drive nut with conical seat and extension to accommodate thick alloy wheel; radiused (ball type) hex drive nut; and a wheel bolt that features a ball type radiused seat.

most people won’t take the time to learn this very basic theory.

Whether inch or metric, we need to know the diameter, the thread pitch and the thread length. For example, when dealing in an inch format, a nut identifed as a 1 x 20 x 1 indicates that the thread diameter (the diameter of the stud it will accept) is 1-inch. The number “20” indicates thread pitch. That refers to the number of threads that exist per inch of length. In this case, the thread count, or “pitch” is 20 threads-per-inch. The fnal number refers to the length of the thread engagement. The number “1” means that the nut features 1 inch of internal thread engagement length.

If the fastener is metric, diameter is represented in

millimeters, pitch represents the distance from one thread to the next thread, and thread or shank length is represented in millimeters. For example, a 14 x 1.5 x 70 wheel bolt would indicate a 14 mm diameter, a 1.5 thread pitch and a thread or shank length of 70 mm.

In terms of thread pitch, it’s really very simple: With inchformat, the larger the number, the “finer” the threads (20 threads per inch would mean more threads within a given area than, say, 16 threads per inch). If the format is metric, the larger the number, the more “coarse” the threads would be (a distance of 1mm between threads would result in a greater number of threads in the same area as, say a distance of 1.75

When tightening a wheel fastener, secure the wrench head with one hand to stabilize the tool, and maintain socket wrench alignment. This will aid in achieving accurate tightening.

retical engagement for proper clamping load. However, the industry usually takes advantage of greater thread engagement depth, for added safety (the deeper the threads engage, the longer it takes to actually loosen the fastener; and in some cases, longer studs are used simply to aid in wheel installation onto the hub).

Thread size Thread sizing is not diffcult to understand. The problem is that 30

Some aftermarket wheel nuts are conveniently stamped for easy size identifcation. This nut is clearly labeled for a 12 mm x 1.5 thread size.

Today’s handy, high-precision digital torque wrenches offer quick value adjustment and provide audible and visual alerts (in the form of beeps and illumination) when the desired value is reached.

mm between threads). So, in inch format, smaller pitch numbers mean “coarse” threads, while larger numbers indicate “fner” threads. In metric format, small numbers indicate fner threads, while larger numbers indicate more “coarse” thread. Many people tend to make this issue more confusing than it really is. Simply think about what the number means (number of threads per inch

if the fastener is inch-type; or distance between threads, if the fastener is metric type).

If we were referring to a bolt, both diameter and pitch are determined the same way.

Length would then refer to the shank length (the length of the bolt under the head), or in the case of wheel bolts, the length of the bolt from the bottom of the seat to the tip of the threaded end.

In order to accurately identify the thread diameter, pitch and length of any wheel fastener, you can handle this by obtaining a total of three readily-available tools: a combination bolt/nut sizing card (these

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Here are examples of conical (on the left) and radius wheel nut seats.

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Wheel fasteners

The Porsche Carerra GT’s center nuts are color coded (red for the left side and blue for the right side).

If you look closely, this red nut (on the driver side of the car) is labeled with an arrow for direction to loosen. Each nut is so-marked to avoid confusion between thread directions. This red nut features right-hand threads, requiring counterclockwise rotation to loosen.

are hard plastic and are available to cover both inch and metric sizes) and two thread pitch gauges (one inch and one metric). That’s all you need to quickly and accurately read any wheel bolt or nut without any guesswork.

Common wheel fastener thread sizes: 7/16-20 1-20 9/16-18 M12 X 1.25 M12 X 1.5 M12 X 1.75 M14 X 1.5 M14 X 2.0

Head/drive styles

Note the spline-drive design of the alloy nut. This requires the use of a special Porsche nut driver tool.

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The “head” of a wheel bolt or nut features a specific drive design and appearance approach. The most conventional drive style involves a hex (six-sided) that requires the use of a six-point wrench. However, other styles do exist, although not encountered as often. These include female hex drive “tuner” nuts which feature a relatively small and smooth outer body

diameter (to ft into small-diameter fastener recesses in some wheels), and a female hex drive hole, requiring a male hex bit for service. Yet another drive style is the spline-drive head which features a symmetric pattern of straight-cut external splines instead of hex walls.

Splined fasteners require a dedicated female spline socket, available from the maker of the splined fasteners.

In terms of appearance, nuts may be either open (the threaded hole runs all the way through the nut) or closed (threads terminate inside the nut). Closed head styles are varied, and include fush tops, raised conical domes, raised fattop domes, extended hex walls (for easier reach and handling and greater wrench contact area) and radiused domes.

Body and thread length All of the wheel nut and wheel bolt styles that we’ve mentioned are available in a wide variety of lengths, in terms of drive area or thread engagement area. Drive

is too long, this will prevent full seating at the wheel.

Wheel fastener tightening Never use an impact gun to remove or install threaded fasteners when dealing with custom alloy wheels.

The reason to avoid using an impact gun during removal is simply to avoid scratching the fastener pockets of the wheel. If you insist on removal with a gun, use only a clean thinwall socket and run the gun at a slower speed.

Here is Porsche’s specialty tool kit for removing and installing the center nuts on the Carerra GT. Included is the nut wrench (on the left), the torque multiplier (in the center) and the stop-arm that rests against a wheel spoke.

The Porsche tool engaged onto the wheel nut. The torque multiplier tool is driven by a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench. By pulling a mere 128 ft.-lbs. on the torque wrench, the torque multiplier achieves a fnal at-the-nut torque value of 407 ft.-lbs.

area height may be dictated by the thickness of the wheel’s center hub, or by the design of the wheel (maybe the nut or bolt head needs to project out farther for easier wrench access).

The necessary thread engagement area will affect length as well, involving either inboard thread reach or outboard projection based on stud length. Thread length/depth is extremely critical. The nut-to-stud or bolt-to-female thread engagement area must be suffcient to properly secure the wheel.

At bare minimum, thread engagement depth must be greater than the diameter of the thread (for example, if the thread is 12 mm, thread engagement depth must be greater than 12 mm). Pay particular attention with closeddesign nuts. Make sure that the stud does not bottom-out inside the nut. This will prevent the fastener from seating onto the wheel. By the same token, if a wheel bolt’s shank length Quik-Link: 800-687-1557 ext. 15114

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Photos courtesy McGard.

Wheel fasteners

Splined wheel nuts offer a slender, more accessible reach, especially for wheel applications where the nut is recessed in the wheel. Note that the splined interface offers a durable grip surface for the lock key socket.

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The UHC open nut provides a lowprofle ft for those who prefer a less-obtrusive appearance.

One option for open-nut applications is McGard’s UHC model that features a female key slot. The lock socket features a surround that captures the nut for a more secure removal and installation.

It’s easy to scratch the pockets with the socket or the exiting nut or bolt, even while trying to maintain control gun control.

Whether we’re dealing with a bargain-basement, impurityriddled aluminum casting or the fnest and strongest billet, forged or investment-cast alloy wheel, proper clamping force is critical for both wheel care and performance.

For one thing, over-tightening can gall or deform the wheel’s fastener pocket seats.

Excessive over or unequal tightening can distort both the wheel center section as well as today’s commonly thin-wall hubs. This can result in a distorted brake rotor, leading to brake pedal pulsation. Considering the lightweight rotor hats featured on many of today’s vehicles, that’s an open invitation to disc brake warping and brake pedal bounce, which will surely result in a comeback complaint.

When taper or round seat wheel fasteners are tightened, an interference fit is experienced. The male seat of the fastener contacts the female seat of the wheel and creates a small wedge contact when tightened, creating a pressure point that helps to lock the fastener in place. If either type of fastener is under-tightened, they can loosen during operation. If over-tightened, the fastener can become fatigued

and can deform the material in the wheel’s female seat pocket, which can result in fastener loosening. The shape of the radiused seat reduces the effect of over-tightening since contact pressure is more evenly distributed than with a taper seat style.

Flat seat style is used almost exclusively with alloy wheels, since in the early days of alloy aftermarket wheels, the alloy material may not have been strong enough to handle the frictional forces created by tapered or radiused seats.

Over-tighening a fat seat nut can deform the wheel, causing the aluminum under the washer to extrude, which displaces the aluminum, causing the nut to loosen.

Over-tightening can also stretch the wheel studs or wheel bolt shanks beyond their elastic range. All bolts or studs are designed to stretch a miniscule amount when optimal clamping load is achieved. This elasticity of the stud or bolt is what helps to secure the wheel on the hub. When torqued to specifcation, this is referred to as achieving the proper “clamping load.” If the stud or bolt is excessively over-tightened, it’s possible that it will stretch beyond its yield point, losing its “rubber band” effect.

If stretched beyond the yield point, the stud or bolt becomes so weak that it cannot provide

the clamping load needed. The result: the fastener loosens or the stud or bolt shank breaks.

Always follow the torque specifcations listed by either the vehicle manufacturer or by the wheel maker. Don’t guess. Actually take the time to pick up a calibrated torque wrench and tighten all of the wheel’s fasteners, in the proper sequence, in several steps to achieve fnal (and equal) torque values.

While the use of torquelimiting “sticks” is common, when dealing with alloy wheels, the preferred method involves using a calibrated torque wrench. Note that in addition to dial or micrometer “click” style torque wrenches, today’s tool market includes high-precision digital torque wrenches that prove quite handy. With the press of a button, you set the desired torque value. Once that value is achieved, the tool “beeps,” vibrates and illuminates a LED light, features that are well appreciated in a noisy shop.

Never tighten wheel fasteners in a progressive adjacent pattern.

Tighten in a “crisscross” pattern in order to evenly spread the clamping load to avoid warping the wheel or hub face.

Retorque Specifically when dealing with alloy wheels, it’s highly

advisable to re-check the value of each fastener after about the frst 50 to 100 miles of operation. Due to metal compression/elongation and thermal stresses, the clamping loads may change during initial use.

When rechecking torque value, wait for the wheels to cool to ambient temperature (never torque a hot wheel). Loosen and retighten, to value, in sequence. Again, some will argue that this step is not necessary, but it’s better to be safe than sorry, and it’s better to catch a loose nut early as opposed to too late.

Wheel fastener (nut or bolt) torque values While you should always refer to the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations for proper wheel fastener torque values, following is a generic guideline. Don’t guess. Adhere to the vehicle maker’s specs.

Thread size 12 mm 14 mm 7/16 in.

1 in.

9/16 in.

Torque (ft.-lbs.)

75-85 85-100 70-80 75-85 135-145

Wheel locks As a deterrent to would-be wheel thieves, “wheel locks” have been popular additions to vehicles equipped with expensive alloy wheels and high-dollar tires. Contrary to the term “locks,” these fasteners do not actually “lock.” Rather, they feature a drive design that requires a special wrench that matches the specifc design of the fastener’s drive. Commonly, “locking” lug nuts or wheel bolts may feature an irregular female keyway machined into the fastener head, requiring a drive tool with a matching male shape. Another common approach features a splined

design, requiring a matching female-splined tool. If a lock tool is missing, removal of the locking fastener may require either welding a bolt or nut to the locking fastener, a specialty gripping tool (similar to a female “easy-out” tool) or a call to the wheel lock manufacturer to order a replacement lock key.

The Cobra features a right-hand thread on the right side of the car, and a left-hand thread on the left side. Remember, threads should be lightly lubed with moly before servicing to avoid galling the aluminum knock-off spinner nut.

Quik-Link: 800-687-1557 ext. 15115

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Wheel fasteners

Knock-off/pindrive system Many race cars (as well as a few vintage street cars such as some old Corvettes, Ferarris, AC Cobras, etc.; and some latemodel exotic cars, such as Porsche’s Carerra GT) feature a wheel fastening system that involves a The knock-off spinner nut is made of alumi- single large center num. In order to tighten or loosen the spin- nut instead of ner nut, a heavy lead hammer is used to beat the spinner wings. The lead deforms a series of indieasily, but that’s intentional. The lead (soft- vidual fasteners. er than the aluminum wings) is sacrifced, Commonly to prevent damage to the aluminum wings. ca l le d “k no ckoff” or “pin-drive” wheels, this features a large center hole in the wheel that slides over an extended male threaded spindle. A large center nut (sometimes hex sided, sometimes featuring two or three

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large “wings”) secures the wheel to the hub. This system is often called a “knock-off” because (in the case of winged center nuts) a large lead hammer is sometimes used to loosen or tighten the center nut (where the nut is winged). Even if the nut is hexed, a large special wrench may feature extended leverage arms that allow the use of a lead hammer to “knock” the nut. The term “pin-drive” refers to the series of short stubby dowel pins located on the hub face that engage into holes on the rear of the wheel center.

Locating the wheel onto these pins prevents the wheel from rotating in relation to the hub.

Basically, the term knock-off and pin-drive are synonymous.

It’s important to be aware that a knock-off wheel system may feature left-hand threads and right-hand threads on opposite sides of the vehicle. It’s critical to recognize this before attempting to loosen a left-hand thread nut by trying to rotate it counterclockwise. Some pindrive systems feature right-hand threads on the right side of the car and left-hand threads on the left side; while some cars may feature the opposite (lefthand threads on the right side and right-hand threads on the left side).

As an example, of a latermodel exotic application, the center nuts on the 2005 Porsche Carrera GT feature a spline-type engagement, requiring a special dedicated Porsche tool for service. This socket tool is part of a “torque-multiplier” Porsche tool kit. The socket engages the nut, while a special torque multiplier gearbox attaches to the socket. The Porsche torque specifcation for these nuts is 407 ft.-lbs. Initially that sounds like an impossibility (after all, how many folks have a 400+ ft.-lbs. torque wrench lying in their toolbox?). However, that’s where the torque multiplier

comes in. Simply adjust your torque wrench to 128 ft.-lbs. and attach it to the multiplier tool. As you pull to a mere 128 ft.-lbs., the multiplier gearbox converts this amount of force into an effective 407 ft.-lbs. The tool isn’t cheap (around a cool $2,000 at your local Porsche dealer), but it makes the job easy and precise.

Naturally, since only a single large nut secures the wheel in place, you want to make certain that the nut won’t accidentally loosen. In addition to achieving the specifed torque value when tightening the nut, a back-up system is often employed to maintain the nut’s position. If the nut is the wing-nut style, stainless steel safety wire can be used to insure against loosening (wire is run through a small hole in one of the wings to a small hole in a wheel spoke). In the case of the Porsche Carrera GT, the alloy nuts feature a spring-loaded tab that engages in a spindle slot.

Yet another potential example of a shop encountering pindrive wheels is the customer who owns an AC Cobra replica.

While the majority of these cars (commonly referred to as “kit” car Cobras) will feature common fve-bolt hubs along with traditional wheel nuts, some examples may feature the original style pin-drive hub system, wherein the center spindle nut threads onto the spindle with a three-wing-style nut that must be loosened or tightened using a lead hammer. This vintage style then requires a means to prevent the nut from loosening.

This involves installing a length of stainless steel safety wire that connects one of the nut’s “wings” to the wheel (small wire holes should exist on both the wings and the wheel.) Granted, it’s rare that you’ll encounter this, but it’s good to know the procedure if the circumstance arises. ■

Performance Showcase

Spotlight on Performance Showcase!

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Highlighted are lug nuts and wheel locks, OE replacement wheel and hubcap programs and tires, tires, tires!

See the latest all-season performance, eco-friendly performance, off-road, grand touring, ultra-high performance, urban allterrain, winter tires and more for passenger cars, light trucks, minivans, crossovers and SUVs for on the track and on the road!

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Performance Datafle

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Thunderer Trac Grip M/T R404 American Omni Trading’s Thunderer Trac Grip M/T R404 is a maximum-traction on/offroad radial with an aggressive attitude. The open and tiered tread block elements ensure maximum traction in extreme conditions. The Q rating along with the 10-ply rating ensures the necessary load carrying capacity.

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driving precision for the most powerful cars.

The Ultrac Vorti R was developed in close cooperation with the Italian design company Giugiaro, and the carbon accents on the sidewall an in the tread are a design feature unique to this tire, the company reports.

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Atturo Trail Blade X/T The winner of SEMA’s 2014 Global Media Award for “Best Innovative New Product for the International Market,” the Atturo Trail Blade X/T continues the tradition of marrying exceptional off-road performance with aggressive styling.

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Vredestein Vorti R The Vorti R is Vredestein’s most sporty ultra-high performance summer tire to date.

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Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 Continental Tire’s newest tire, the ExtremeContact DWS06, is the evolution of the ExtremeContact DWS. This ultimate UHP, all-season tire maintains excellent snow traction while improvements in wet traction, dry handling and tread life have been made with the new, SportPlus Technology. Continental’s Quick View Indicators, including the popular Tuned Performance Indicators (Dry, Wet and Snow letters indicating the tire’s optimal performance levels in a variety of driving conditions), make this tire a number one choice.

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Falken ZIEX ZE950 A/S The ZIEX ZE950 A/S incorporates the latest in technology and design from Falken to create an excellent choice for drivers of today’s sedans, sports cars and crossover vehicles where mileage, all-season and high performance handling are a priority.

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Performance Datafle

General AltiMAX RT43 AltiMAX RT43, General Tire’s newest all-season touring tire, is designed to give passengers a quiet, comfortable ride, combined with year-round, all-season traction. The enhanced construction of this tire reduces tread distortion for more even tread wear and extended tread life and ultimately, provides a remarkable value to the consumer.

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Kenda Klever M/T The Kenda Klever M/T is an excellent choice for off-road enthusiasts or individuals that require a high traction tire. The scalloped shoulder blocks are staggered to ensure improved traction in loose or soft surfaces as well as perform with low road noise and improved ride comfort. The specially formulated chip and cut resistant, off-road tread compound is engineered for long life. Three-ply sidewall construction is available in select sizes.

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Kumho Tire Ecsta 4X II Unmatched allseason handling and class-leading comfort make the new Ecsta 4X II a perfect performance ft for luxury sport sedans. The rounded shoulder and fve-rib design 56

give it a tight, tactile feel, with exceptional highway stability and a remarkably smooth ride. On wet pavement, the asymmetric tread channels water to the inside of the wheel for high-speed stability; on dry roads, the wide outer block offers superb cornering control.

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KUMHO TIRE USA INC. Quik-Link: 800-687-1557 ext. 15189 www.mtdquiklink.com/15189

and enhanced wet/dry traction performance.

Force concentrated during high speed cornering is dispersed through equal block division and enhanced block rigidity to boost cornering and steering stability. N FERA SU1 is a long-lasting tread wear tire with V, W and Y speed ratings, and a variety of sizes from 15- to 20-inch diameters NEXEN TIRE USA Quik-Link: 800-687-1557 ext. 15191 www.mtdquiklink.com/15191

Beautiful black wheel locks, lug nuts and lug bolts McGard’s lug nuts with a black chrome fnish have a deep refective look that will enhance the look of any wheel.

Use them on black wheels for a monochromatic look or on silver or chrome wheels for a contrasting look, the company suggests. McGard lug nuts, lug bolts and SplineDrive lug nuts are guaranteed for life not to chip, peel or rust.

The company’s wheel lock design is easy to use and provides “the best theft protection in the world,” says McGard. Lug nuts and wheel locks are available in Wheel Installation Kits, which include everything you need to install your new wheels in one convenient package.

They are also available in bright chrome.

MC GARD LLC Quik-Link: 800-687-1557 ext. 15190 www.mtdquiklink.com/15190

Landsail LS588 UHP, LS588 SUV/CUV Sentury Tire Americas is offering the Landsail LS588 UHP and Landsail LS588 SUV/CUV all-season ultra-high performance tires.

Landsail’s high silica, fuel-saving tread compound is formulated to improve grip, traction and braking in dry road conditions.

Special 3-D zigzag sipes provide more biting edges for wet, snowy and icy roads. And four wide longitudinal grooves channel water for improved steering, braking and hydroplaning resistance in wet weather.

SENTURY TIRE AMERICAS Quik-Link: 800-687-1557 ext. 15192 www.mtdquiklink.com/15192

Nexen N FERA SU1 N FERA SU1 is a new premium ultra-high performance asymmetric summer tire. Its three wide longitudinal grooves maximize wet driving performance and enhance superior handling.

The dry grip improves handling and braking performance. The optimum surface split sipping has been applied for 3-D block design

Sumitomo HTR ZIII The Sumitomo HTR ZIII Maximum Performance tire achieves a new level of ultimate driving excitement and control. Designed for today’s most popular performance vehicles, the ZIII delivers enhanced traction, exceptional handling and maximum maneuverability across a wide range of road conditions.

The ZIII’s fve rib asymmetric tread pattern

Performance Datafle merges confdent cornering grip and superior straight line stability while the wide lateral tread grooves evacuate water from the center of the footprint for improved wet performance. You want confdent control at the limit? You’ve got it with the HTR ZIII. The high rigidity construction of the ZIII marks a signifcant step forward in highspeed steering and cornering stability and is another example of Sumitomo’s commitment to improving performance through progressive technology. The ZIII carries and UTQG rating of 300-AA-A and is available in 53 Y rated sizes from 17 inch through 20 inch, with the majority of sizes extra load rated for superior durability. The ZIII also features free replacement for defects in workmanship and material through the life of the tread.

TBC CORP. Quik-Link: 800-687-1557 ext. 15193 www.mtdquiklink.com/15193

tor of O.Z. Racing wheels in North America.

Since 1971, O.Z. Racing has established itself as a leader in the world’s lightweight alloy wheel industry. O.Z. Racing produces standard equipment wheels for some of the most exclusive automobiles in the world and is the offcial supplier of Infniti Red Bull Racing and Scuderia Ferrari.

TIRE RACK WHOLESALE Quik-Link: 800-687-1557 ext. 15194 www.mtdquiklink.com/15194

ADVAN Sport A/S

Online tire and wheel guide

O.Z. Racing Wheels Tire Rack Wholesale is the exclusive distribu-

and minus tire calculators are included for customized ftments.

THE ULTIMATE TIRE & WHEEL PLUS SIZING GUIDE Quik-Link: 800-687-1557 ext. 15195 www.mtdquiklink.com/15195

The Ultimate Wheel & Tire Plus Sizing Guide “Online Edition” is updated throughout the year with tire and wheel ftments for both OE and plus sizes for both current and vintage vehicles. Your subscription also features reverse lookups by tire size, bolt pattern/ offset, and wheel brand name search. Plus

For customers who demand the ultimate in performance and handling no matter the season, the ADVAN Sport A/S answers the call at every turn. Offering thrilling performance on dry roads and confdent traction in rain or snow, the ADVAN Sport A/S provides a premium driving experience and quiet ride all year long. The ADVAN Sport A/S is equipped with a limited tread wear warranty.

YOKOHAMA TIRE CORP. Quik-Link: 800-687-1557 ext. 15196 www.mtdquiklnk.com/15196

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Performance Directory

1-800EveryRim.com – OEM Wheels 9935 Beverly Blvd.

Pico Rivera, CA 90660 (800) 383-7974 or Text951RimText Chase Potter, mgr.

Products: Brokers of OEM wheels; used, new, reconditioned. Buy and sell/alloy and steel. www.1-800everyrim.com

American Omni Trading Co. 15354 Park Row Houston, TX 77084 (281) 600-TIRE (8473) FAX: (281) 600-8475 Chris Brackin, v.p. of sls.

Products: passenger, ultra-high performance, light truck, medium truck, off-the-road, industrial and farm tires. www.american-omni.com

General Tire Continental Tire the Americas, LLC 1830 MacMillan Park Dr. Blackburn’s Hubcap & Wheel Solutions Fort Mill, SC 29707 8190 Roll and Hold Parkway (800) 847-3349 FAX: (704) 587-6555 Macedonia, OH 44056 Jochen Etzel, CEO (800) 981-8321 Products: ultra-high performance tires, Todd Deranek, dir. of sls. and mktg. passenger tires, light truck tires, offProducts: original equipment new, used road tires, medium/heavy truck tires, and refnished alloy, steel and chrome commercial tires. wheels, wheel covers and center caps www.generaltire.com for import and domestic, light truck and Twitter: @generaltire auto from current production year to Facebook: facebook.com/generaltire antique and classic models. www.blackburnwheels.com

Kenda Tires USA 7095 Americana Parkway Reynoldsburg, OH 43068 (614) 866-9803 FAX: (614) 866-9805 Products: ultra-high performance tires, passenger tires, light truck tires, SUV/ CUV tires, specialty tires, trailer tires, ATV tires, motorcycle tires, golf cart tires, ag/farm tires and bicycle tires. www.kendatire.com

Continental Tire Continental Tire the Americas, LLC 1830 MacMillan Park Dr. Fort Mill, SC 29707 (800) 847-3349 FAX: (704) 587-6555 Jochen Etzel, CEO. Products: ultra-high performance tires, passenger tires, light truck tires, medium/heavy truck tires, commercial tires, motorcycle tires, bicycle and specialty tires. www.continentaltire.com Kumho Tire USA, Inc. Twitter: @continentaltire 10299 6th St. Facebook: facebook.com/continentaltire Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730 Apollo Vredestein Tires Inc. (909) 428-3999 or (800) 445-8646 13 Bridge St. FAX: (909) 428-3994 Metuchen, NJ 08840 Harry Choi, pres./CEO (732) 549-2440 or (800) 221-3422 Products: high performance tires, LT FAX: (732) 549-2450 tires, medium/heavy truck tires, passenEmil Herbak, country mgr.; Bill Haney, ger tires, performance tires, racing tires, ag and industrial tire specialist RV and specialty tires.

Products: ag/farm tires, high perforFalken Tire www.kumhotireusa.com mance tires, lawn and garden tires, 8656 Haven Ave. industrial tires and passenger tires.

Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730 www.vredestein.com (800) 723-2553 Products: PCR; touring, high performance touring, grand touring, high performance, ultra-high performance, max performance, winter and winter McGard, LLC Atturo Tire Corp. performance. LTR; street performance, 3875 California Rd. PO Box 302 highway terrain, all terrain, mud terrain. Orchard Park, NY 14127 Lake Villa, IL 60046 TBR; steer and trailer, drive, all-position (800) 669-6887 or (716) 662-8980 (855) 632-8031 FAX: (847) 589-8446 and wide-base offerings for regional, FAX: (716) 662-8985 Products: performance, mud-terrain and long-haul and on-/off-road conditions.

Durham McCauley, CEO; Peter Mcall-terrain tires for SUV, CUV and 4X4 www.falkentire.com Cauley, pres.; John Mondo, v.p. sls. & vehicles. mktg.; Kevin Halt, v.p. sls. Japan, Asia & www.atturo.com Oceania; Chris Smith, dir. of OEM sls.

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Performance Directory Products: wheel accessories including wheel locks, lug nuts, lug bolts, spare tire locks. Vehicle security products including tailgate locks and door locks for Jeep. www.mcgard.com

Nexen Tire USA 21073 Pathfnder Rd., Suite 100 Diamond Bar, CA 91765 (800) 576-3936 FAX: (909) 923-3991 John Aben, senior v.p. of sls. & mktg.

Products: ultra-high performance tires, high performance tires, light truck/SUV tires and passenger tires. www.nexentireusa.com

Sentury Tire Americas 3121 NW 125th St. Miami, FL 33167 (305) 621-5101 Maxwell Wee, dir. of sls.

Products: ultra-high performance, ultrahigh performance SUV/CUV, all-season, snow/ice, performance SUV, CUV, PCR, LTR and TBR tires.

Brands: Delinte, Landsail www.senturytireusa.com

TBC Brands 4300 TBC Way Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410 (866) 822-4968 Marty Krcelic, exec. v.p.

Products: high performance tires, passenger tires, SUV/CUV tires, light truck tires, medium truck tires and TBR tires, farm tires, industrial tires, specialty and OTR tires; steel and aluminum truck wheels; tire equipment. Consumer tire brands: Cordovan, Delta, Eldorado, Jetzon, Multi-Mile, National, Sailun, Sigma, Sumitomo, Telstar, and Vanderbilt. Commercial and farm tire brands: Harvest King, Power King, Sumitomo, Sailun,

Towmax, Dynacargo, Akuret and BKT. www.tbcbrands.com www.sumitomotire.com Website: www.moderntiredealer.com

Publisher

Tire Rack Wholesale 7101 Vorden Pkwy.

South Bend, IN 46628-8422 (800) 445-0179 or (574) 287-2316 FAX: (574) 236-7700 Wayne Leuthold, wholesale mgr.

Products: brake products; high performance tires, light truck tires, passenger and racing tires; suspension components, wheels and accessories, wiper blades. www.tirerackwholesale.com

Greg Smith Greg.Smith@bobit.com (330) 899-2200 ext. 12, fax (330) 899-2209

Editorial (330) 899-2200, fax (330) 899-2209 Editor: Robert J. Ulrich, ext. 11 Bob.Ulrich@bobit.com Managing Editor: Lori L. Mavrigian, ext. 16 Lori.Mavrigian@bobit.com Senior Editor: Joy Kopcha, ext. 15 Joy.Kopcha@bobit.com Associate Editor: Ann Neal, ext. 18 Ann.Neal@bobit.com

Production (330) 899-2200, fax (330) 899-2209

Wheel Consultants Inc. 2537-D Pacifc Coast Hwy., #330 Torrance, CA 90505 (310) 357-7293 FAX: (310) 427-7199 Joe Findeis, pres.

Products: The Ultimate Wheel & Tire Plus Sizing Guide. Contains ftments for cars, trucks, SUVs and crossovers.

Current and vintage vehicle ftment applications. Specifcations and data for original equipment and plus sizes. Available in print and digital formats. www.plussizingguide.com

Yokohama Tire Corp.

1 MacArthur Place, Suite 800 Santa Ana, CA 92707-5948 (800) 423-4544 or (714) 870-3800 FAX: (714) 870-3838 Alan Holtschneider, dir. mktg. communications Products: passenger tires, high performance tires, racing tires, light truck tires, medium/heavy truck tires, OTR tires and RV tires. www.yokohamatire.com

Art Director: Neal Weingart, ext. 14 Neal.Weingart@bobit.com Production Manager: Karen Runion, ext. 10 Karen.Runion@bobit.com

Sales South and Texas: Greg Smith Greg.Smith@bobit.com (330) 899-2200 ext. 12, fax (330) 899-2209 Midwest: Michele Vargo Michele.Vargo@bobit.com (330) 899-2200 ext.17, fax (330) 899-2209 West Coast: John Dyal /Te Dyal Company John.Dyal@bobit.com (760) 451-5026, fax (760) 451-5039 West Coast: Marianne Dyal /Te Dyal Company Marianne.Dyal@bobit.com (760) 451-9216 Automotive Aftermarket: Dan Tornton djtinc@gmail.com (734) 676-9135, mobile (313) 410-0945 Classifed Sales: Donna Stewart Donna_Stewart@cox.net (405) 260-1678, fax (405) 260-1684 Reprint Sales: Karen Runion Karen.Runion@bobit.com (330) 899-2200 ext. 10, fax (330) 899-2209

Customer/Subscription Service (888) 239-2455, fax (888) 274-4580

Home offce 3515 Massillon Rd., Suite 350 Uniontown, OH 44685

Executive offce 3520 Challenger St. Torrance, CA 90503 Chairman (1961-2014): Edward J. Bobit CEO & President: Ty F. Bobit Chief Financial Offcer: Richard E. Johnson VP & COO: Cyndy Drummey

59

Modern Tire Dealer 3515 Massillon Road, Suite 350 Uniontown, OH 44685 (330) 899-2200, fax (330) 899-2209 www.moderntiredealer.com

To request free product information by phone, call 800-687-1557, enter the extension number listed below, and you will be immediately transferred to the company you want to talk with — it takes only seconds.

To request information online, log on to www. mtdquiklink.com/ plus the corresponding Quik-Link number. You’re just a click away from receiving free information on the new products that interest you.

Page

800-687-1557 + Toll Free Extension

Web site

1-800EveryRim.com - OEM Wheels

36

15116

www.mtdquiklink.com/15116

American Omni Trading Company

31

15113

www.mtdquiklink.com/15113

Apollo Vredestein Tires Inc.

15

15107

www.mtdquiklink.com/15107

Atturo Tire Corporation

35

15115

www.mtdquiklink.com/15115

Blackburn’s Hubcap & Wheel Solutions

13

15106

www.mtdquiklink.com/15106

Continental Tire the Americas LLC

9

15104

www.mtdquiklink.com/15104

Falken Tire

11

15105

www.mtdquiklink.com/15105

General Tire

27

15111

www.mtdquiklink.com/15111

Kenda USA

IBC

15117

www.mtdquiklink.com/15117

Kumho Tire USA Inc.

5

15102

www.mtdquiklink.com/15102

McGard LLC

33

15114

www.mtdquiklink.com/15114

Nexen Tire America Inc.

IFC

15101

www.mtdquiklink.com/15101

Sentury Tire Americas

29

15112

www.mtdquiklink.com/15112

Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA)

19-22

15109

www.mtdquiklink.com/15109

TBC Brands

7

15103

www.mtdquiklink.com/15103

Tire Rack Wholesale

17

15108

www.mtdquiklink.com/15108

Wheel Consultants Inc.

25

15110

www.mtdquiklink.com/15110

Yokohama Tire Corporation

OBC

15118

www.mtdquiklink.com/15118

Advertiser

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You don’t need to download an app to enjoy our website on your smartphone Go to www.moderntiredealer.com We’ve done the work to make it easy for you to use.

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Quik-Link: 800-687-1557 ext. 15117

Quik-Link: 800-687-1557 ext. 15118