CIEN ANOS

October 19.

Cien Anos (l00 years) is the name of a restaurant we discovered via a local SD newspaper. The owner, a very young man, told us that “Cien Anos’, is the name of a popular Mexican song. On our last trip to Tijuana, we checked out the place. Marge went in looked it over and was given a menu. Today the three restauranteurs will have lunch there. Marge and I arrived at Maria’s with some food for the family and a beautiful ash coffee table for the living room. It is the exact same color as her chair, or, as the boys call it “the queen’s throne.” Maria, this is the type of table one puts books on but does not use for eating like you would on your kitchen table. No longer bashful in asking such questions, Maria asked Marge how much the table cost. When she heard the price, she was immensely impressed. Marge and I were impressed also because this beauty is worth much more. It was hand-made in Los Angeles. The little house on Aranjuez is just about completed with furniture.

Due to the recent Santa Ana weather, it was quite hot today. It will feel good to get into the air-conditioning at Cien Anos. Located in Zona Rio it is very close to Nanci Moreno’s English school. That reminds me that I must talk with her about her progress. Have I mentioned before that through the foundation we have arranged for Nanci to enter this school? It is a very flexible place that allows her to come to classes after her work at her own convenience. It is quite expensive but we feel that Nanci is a good investment. Nanci is Prisciliana’s daughter and she has also decided to return to her 245

studies in order to finish her high school requirements. While working in the factories it has become popular for many young people to return to their studies via a home study method. Cien Anos is beautifully decorated in an old Spanish motif. Many of its twelve or so tables were occupied by mostly young men. Probably they were minor business or government executives. It is a very quiet, intimate place. The menu was in both English and Spanish, and all the waiters spoke some English. The menus were printed in an old script-like style that even had Maria confused. “David, please help me. I can not read a menu. “ I barely was able to myself. Everything looked excellent. We ordered our drinks and proceeded to do what we have done for so many of these past months; we chatted and further tightened our bond of friendship. Maria knows that I am writing this story about her life. I told her I had included the sad tale of Chuie.

She asked if we would like to hear another story from the linea? “You remember the lady who told me about Villa Fontana? She lives nearby in a one-bedroom house with her husband, her daughter, and her baby grandson. This lady’s husband works as a vendor at the border while she has a small store near their home. Her daughter, who went to school and had a very good job, was expecting her first baby. Shortly after the baby’s birth. he became very ill, something to do with his intestines. After an operation, and the baby returned home, the baby’s father beat his wife so bad that today she cannot care for herself or the baby. He slammed her head against a wall and now the poor girl is helpless. As the baby grows, his mother has become a baby. So sad. I do not know what became of the husband. Many Mexican men are very “macho” and perhaps he felt less than a man because his baby boy was not born perfect. “This was the same lady wfrom hom we bought a box of candy In appreciation of her telling Maria about Villa Fontana. We

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wanted to meet her and express our thanks, but she did not want us to visit her home. Now I understand.

As the waiters hovered nearby Maria told us about the boys and their progress at school Javier is settled in over at Mesa Otay. The poor kid misses his mother and brother and due to the distance to Villa Fontana, he spends many nights in the old room. He is progressing well and his father keeps tabs on him. Manuel is adjusting very well to his first year of junior high school. He is very excited about his English class and he likes to practice his pronunciation with me. He still lacks three textbooks and his uniform. Maria has the money set aside and is waiting until the school receives more books and the delivery of uniforms. Maria wanted to purchase the uniform elsewhere but the teacher said they have to be bought at the school. I do not know if they are trying to make more profit on these clothes or if they are attempting to keep all uniforms.

There is still no news on her “escritura” deed to her house. This has been an ongoing problem for the past three months. Marge has called Javier dozens of times and Maria has made several trips to different offices, all to no avail. Marge believes that the builder, URBI, does not know how to deal with a cash payment for a house. Marge continues to get the stalling game while Maria receives what she calls “mentiras”, lies. URBI just does not have the people to keep up with the thousands upon thousands of new home buyers.

We better order now, these waiters are looking desperate. Marge and Maria ordered the roast pork and I ordered the chiles relleno with shrimp. Maria ordered a tortilla soup, Marge a lettuce salad and I a nopales salad. Nopales are cactus leaves, stripped of the spines and sauteed. One of my favorites. With the wink of an eve, the salads appeared. We all tasted each other and agreed that Maria’s was the best. The three entrees were beautifully arranged and very tasty. Unfortunately, the pork was not cooked long enough. Cooked but 247

not as roast pork should be. My chiles relleno were excellent. The overall ambiance of Cien Anos was fine. We thoroughly enjoyed this latest experience in Mexican dining. We shared a coned shape pastry made with tequila while I had American coffee and Marge, iced tea. Maria had enough cocacola for today. While waiting for the bill, the girls walked around the room admiring the real and artificial plants and flowers, the artwork on the walls, and several Mexican ceramic items. It just occurred to me that I sound like the “unknown eater’’ doing one of his restaurant reviews. Probably we will not return again. there are so many restaurants in Tijuana to experience and their drink prices were quite high. Nevertheless, Marge and I enjoyed the day while Maria was filling all of these pleasant happenings away for future reflection. Three years and a dozen restaurants ago Maria had never been out to dinner. At this point in our relationship with Maria, her knowledge and awareness have increased to such an extent that I feel she would be worthy of a high school diploma. Or, at the very least, a GED! By the time we arrived back at Villa Fontana, the afternoon sun was less strong and casting long shadows. Fall was in the air, Marge suggested that we stop at URBI’s office to see just what the problem was with Maria’s “escritura”. While Maria and I waited in the car. Marge went in to grill Javier. He was supposed to see Maria the day before but he never showed. After she finished with him she brought him out to the car or Maria to have her say. Javier apologized several times but to little avail. “I’m tired of all the lies from this company. How long do I have to wait until I receive these papers? “Poor Javier, he is only the middleman in this business. He never loses his patience with us. We held little faith in his newest promise. After a short visit back to Maria’s house, we departed with the reminder that on the sixth of November, she will have her next house party. “Oh, I am so happy that I will see Mag and David again!” Meg is also excited that she will see her friends again. 248

Our Lifelong Love Affair

Saturday, November 6

“Manuel, Javier, it is 7 am, time to get up. Today is a special day for all of us; another party to celebrate our new home. Magie, David, Meg, and her husband, David, will be coming from San Diego, and Mario, Lulu, and Christina will be here also from Mariano Matamoros. Oh, what a fun day this will be! But first, we must clean the house so everything will look nice. It has been over two weeks since Magie and David visited me. How I miss them when they do not come here! Last night I could not sleep as I was so excited about today. Magie is bringing all the food. We need only to get ice and some beer. When the company comes Magie tells me to sit on my throne “and act like a queen.” On their last visit, David gave me a list of things to do to prepare for the party. Everything looks very clean. Thank you boys and please behave today with all of our visitors.”

This was the first time Meg and Dave had been to Tijuana since the winter after the Carter project. Nine years. Marge suggested that I drive by Maria’s old room to show the kids. Meg and Dave were very excited about seeing Maria’s new house for the first time. Meanwhile, the two were getting quite an education seeing this area and all the crazy drivers flying by in all directions. It’s unbelievable how so many ignore stop signs and even traffic lights. As we drove down Guillermo Prieto and slowed in front of that depressing little room. Meg commented about seeing a photo of the place but this was so much more shocking. I told the two that houses in this area would sell for $45,000 and more. The high cost of the land and its nearness to the border keeps prices up.

Paseo Cucapah, the main street in Villa Fontana, was bumper to bumper with Saturday afternoon traffic, a very busy time in Tijuana. It is the end of the workweek and everyone is shopping and preparing for their Sunday day of rest. Almost before we departed the car I heard, “adelante, adelante,” (come in, come 249

in). Meg and David, I am so happy to see you again.” Last year at Maria’s birthday party in RB they met for the first time. After introductions to Manuel and Javier, I asked Maria to show Meg and Dave around her house. She was so proud and pleased and went from room to room describing each. Marge was pleased also, and well she should be devoting many months of intense work to furnish Maria’s beautiful house to perfection. While outside the little house the noise and rush of traffic went on, we enjoyed our drinks and snacks and felt the happiness and contentment that Maria exulted. I know that we were just as happy as Maria about her first home.

What happened next just added joy to this special day. Manuel came in and told me that some people had parked next door. He thinks they are our friends. Friends are not strong enough to describe Christina and her son-in-law Mario. They burst into the little house with such enthusiasm that I believe Maria was taken back. She knows them well and beamed when they entered. They both speak English so Meg and Dave were not left out of any of the conversation. Things were so busy I think that it was Meg who gave them a tour of the house. They were very impressed with Maria’s “american” house. You can well imagine the house and all of its contents being paid for in cash. There is no one we know who is able to buy like that. Thank God again for all those who contributed to her house!

Only one more guest arrived; Lulu, Mario’s wife, Christina’s daughter. Lulu works weekends, 12 hours each day, and holidays as a nurse in a Tijuana hospital. She was not far behind the two and then the noises almost rivaled the outside. Lulu is just like her mother, socially, would be too soft to avoid what fun she is! She calls herself a “macha Mexicana”. Very political and a very loyal Mexican. The next day was voting day in Mexico and so she was preaching the values of her party, P.R.I. Mario took all of this in stride calling 250

her a Republican. Over the years I have seen the change in Lulu regarding Marge and me. A mild distrust has changed to a genuine love for us that is rivaled by our love for her and her family. I have talked of this family often, Montserrat, Berenice, Christopher, Danny, and Cesar, all highly educated, warm, good people. Though Danny is only five, he is very smart and learning English already.

We had sufficient wine and beer and soft drinks, but the wine proved to be the most popular. As Mario held up an empty bottle he remarked that it was not so good and then proceeded to open another. I think we finished six bottles. “David, may I have a taste of beer?” Marge and I almost fainted. This was Maria’s first experience with alcohol since we met. “I have never tasted beer before, honest, ask my boys.” Of course, we believe you. As she tasted a sip I saw her mouth twist in a negative way. “Oh, it is very bitter, but I will try some more.” The one-quarter cup of her beer she never did finish. She later switched to coke with her meal. Poor Maria, I think at times she is overwhelmed by all of our talking and good kidding. I remember at her first party she disappeared for a time I saw her in her room looking at the picture of Marge and me that Carlos gave her. Again today she left the clamoring crowd only to be found again in her room putting photos in the album Meg and Dave gave her. It is not surprising. For ten years Maria has been imprisoned in that cell at Guillermo Prieto without friends.

With the time passing seven pm, Marge started to prepare the table. The all-American fare of sliced turkey, jello salad, dill potato salad, and homemade rolls, was a big hit with everyone. Manuel and Javier ate in the tv room while the rest of us, eight in all, ate around the living room and dining room. We were just about at capacity for this little house. The conversation lessened as we all enjoyed the fine meal. Maria, you have finished your plate first. You were very hungry. “Yes, I did not eat anything today and besides my health has been better. Magie, you are such a good cook.” 251

Mario and I talked about restaurants in Tijuana, and he recommended several more that we should experience. He also wanted Marge’s recipe for the dill potato salad. Mario is always an interested teacher and lover of cooking. Lulu kept talking to Marge and Meg with no thought that they could not understand her. Then Christina would intervene. Many of our friends assume that we understand Spanish completely and so they conduct their conversations accordingly. As I have mentioned several times before, the language barrier is no such barrier with most of our Mexican friends. Perhaps it is our general attitude but Marge and I have never had any problems communicating with clerks, shop keepers, waiters, or anyone for that matter. Our problems were brought about by those so-called professionals who promised their help but ignored our phone calls and missed their appointments. Regardless, Maria and her boys have their house, and a fine house it is!

How far I have digressed. Anyway, the evening was going great. The dessert, consisting of persimmon bread and lemon bread, was served along with American coffee. We had finally exhausted all the wine. Maria had bought me a bottle of Kahlua, which I had forgotten, otherwise, we would have had after-dinner drinks. If this party sounds like one long drinking bout, that assumption should not be made.

It was getting quite late, I knew that this time we would not make the 10 pm closing of the Otay border. As it turned out later we made good time driving back through town and leaving by the San Ysidro crossing.

Mario extended an invitation to Meg and Dave for dinner at his house. They thought that January would be a good time. Dave has his several-week break between semesters at that time. Mario also invited Marge and me to their house on 28 November, for

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dinner. Barring any problems with the weather, we will go down to Mariano Matamoros on that day.

“Magie, please do not clean up. Tomorrow I am not going to the border and we will clean everything in the morning.” Lulu helped to clean the dishes and Marge finished most of them. “When we will see you again Magie and David?” Within three weeks, my friend. I will call Hilda and tell her when we will visit again. “Till then, I will be waiting for you.”

Friday, November 19

This week I called Maria’s neighbor, Hilda, and told her that we would be visiting Maria on Friday. I like to talk to Hilda because she then has an excuse to visit next door. Poor lady, she is more confined to her house than Maria. Her husband, Alfonso, keeps her in all the time. He often yells at her and is a regular tyrant. Their son, Norberto, is a perfect gentleman, with a very outgoing personality. I have not met their daughter, Maruja, but she seems very nice the few times I spoke with her on the phone. The two children have jobs that keep them away from the house for long hours at a time perhaps to escape their father’s continual complaining.

Marge and I had planned to take Maria out for tacos but again she had cooked a meal for us. Marge scolds her for cooking on each of our visits. We hate to see her doing any unnecessary work around the kitchen. Nevertheless, she wants to reciprocate in some way. “David, look, I bought you a bottle of Kahlua for your birthday. Is that ok?” What could I say at this point except to thank her for the gift and later we would sample this wonderful liquor.

Javier was home today since he did not have school. Manuel was just preparing to leave for his afternoon session. He still lacks two books and part of his uniform. That, however, is the school’s problem since they order these items. Maria is having problems with Manuel and his constant asking her for money to buy all sorts of things like his friends have. Now that they live in a new, upscale 253

neighborhood, he is experiencing a great deal of peer pressure. Manuel does not realize that he is still a poor fourteen-year-old living in a neighborhood so much nicer than Guillermo Prieto. It brings tears to my eyes when I think how hard it is for their mother to earn those few dollars each week. At their age, they cannot realize what torture it is for her to drag that twisted body aboard two buses and spend one and one-half hours traveling to the border. Recently when Maria went to an eye doctor he told her that her eyesight was fine but the fumes from the cars were burning her eyes and making them red. Someday the boys will appreciate what their mother has done for them.

3 December

On today’s trip to Maria’s house, we brought a large amount of clothing for her to sell. Whatever success she has selling things means one less day sitting between the cars. We are trying to convince her that one day each week is enough. The sale items and food that Marge often brings should subsidize her enough. “Magie, Magie, Magie. I am so happy to see you. I did not sleep last night I was so excited about your visit.”

“This time I did not cook for you, Magie says that I should not cook. “ Good at last you are taking our suggestion. Besides, we are going to the taco restaurant on Blvd. Cucapah. Marge and I have eaten there and the food is very good. Manuel was preparing for school after a week of being sick. His mother kept him out of school for two days. Playing soccer at school he got his feet wet and they remained that way all day. Hence, the fever and cold. We brought two new jackets for the boys that Marge had picked out and purchased. After Marge’s talk with Diane about the boy’s lack of winter clothing, she offered to pay for one and said her cousin, Gail would pay for the other. Manuel’s fit very well but unfortunately, 254

he dares not wear it to school. It would be stolen immediately. Javier will get his tonight when he returns to Aranjuez.

We had better go soon for the temperature is falling rapidly. Maria, you cannot go out without a sweater or Jacket. “Don’t worry. David, I will not be cold. Besides, I cannot walk well wearing a jacket or sweater. “Get something, please! She returned with the beautiful, white shawl Marge had given her. The boys at the taco shop remembered us and gave us good service. Maria and I ordered the tacos tripas. Tripas is just as it sounds tripe. It was very good, but Marge did not partake. After the very tasty meal, we returned to Maria’s house where I made coffee and we shared a “cheese pie’’ that Marge had received after she made a donation to an anti-drug organization. She always gives to organizations that are trying to help those addicted to drugs.

We will visit you again Maria on December 17. That day we will begin our eighth Christmas food drive for our friends to the south. I always tell our friends that “ Senor Pavo”, Mr. Turkey, is coming to see them. “How well I remember that first year you brought us food and a turkey. I had never eaten turkey before. I wondered then why these Americans were doing so much for my boys and me. We were strangers who had hardly ever spoken to Americans. They came into that cold, dark room with these wonderful gifts. Four years later I know the answer, they love me. They love Maria Martinez Gomez, a poor crippled Indian girl who lived in a shack and never had one day of school. They love Manuel and Javier equally.

17 December 1999

Today will mark the first delivery of foods on this our eighth annual food collection. Today Marge and I will head south with turkeys and candy and other treats for Pablo Lopez and his wife, Alicia, and their daughter, Yareli. We first met Pablo when Maria 255

was having her brace fittings with Carlos. Since that time Pablo has obtained his own shoe repair shop in Matamoros and is doing better now that he is becoming more known in that busy area. Carlos is still teaching Pablo the orthotist trade and is pushing more and more business to his student. Many pages back I told of both parents’ affliction with polio and their ability to overcome the ravages of this disease. Their most telling example would be Yareli, a wonderful nine-year-old daughter. Polite, well spoken, a perfect delight of a girl. The three greeted us like family, with hugs and kisses. Completely genuine people with no anticipation of pending gifts. Once received, their appreciation was totally sincere. “David, when are you and Margarita coming to our house for dinner?’ “Alicia asked. I promise you that we will come soon, after the new year. There are so many invitations from our friends and so little time to travel south. Nevertheless, Alicia’s request will be granted.

Maria Elena Davalos, la “doctora’’, lives quite close to Pablo. For several years now el Senor Pavo has been visiting this family. If you have read previous pages of this journey you will know of this family and our bond of friendship with them. So many changes between visits. La doctor a has been building a second story on her house while Princesa Diana has finished her high school classes and is working in the medical division of Segura Social, with her sister, Mari. Alejandro was already at work and Diana was just going to her job. We chatted extensively with la doctora.

Years ago, Marge and I decided that some families would receive foods, turkey, candy, and the works. Others slightly more fortunate, candy and a turkey. Still others, candy only. How surprised we were when she gave us a beautiful gift a dried fruit.

Doctora gave us a tour of her second-floor project. A large bedroom, bathroom, and small kitchen area. Her “suite” as she called it. Diana and Alejandro will keep the house on the main

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floor. The several windows will offer her a bright room with a fine view of the surrounding area.

On the other hand, Mari and her three, having suffered the loss of their husband and father from the home several months ago, due to his infidelities, lost him permanently in a deadly car accident three weeks ago. The family is in turmoil but the fact that Mari is building a house very near her mother will help keep her mind occupied. Marge offered to have a housewarming party at Maria’s when the project is finished. Doctora was very grateful. In addition, they all will be coming to RB this next spring for the weekend.

“David, please drive over and see Maria’s house. It is just down the street behind Kuroda.” We will indeed, doctora. With that, we said our goodbyes and left. Maria’s house is on a hill with a beautiful view of the entire area. A two-level brick and concrete structure. It looks like next spring the party will be a reality.

By now it was late afternoon and the temperature was still in the mid 70’s. What a December day! From doctora’s it was a short drive to Maria’s “ residential “ as she calls it. “Hola, hola, Magie, Magie, Magie, come in, come in. I have been waiting for you. “While I unloaded the car with Manuel’s help. Marge was admiring Maria’s new dress; a pretty blue over which she wore a red and white checkered apron. How much did the dress cost, Maria? Really, we are not nosey but she loves to play the bargain game with us. Five dollars? “No, no, 9 pesos.” About one dollar. Wow!! What a bargain! It is so hard for me to find dresses in my size. Next time I will go over to Ley and look for something. “How goes the selling?” Good, thank God. I sold most of the clothes and a man is coming back tomorrow to buy the wood plane you brought. He will pay $20 for that. I would much rather sell here at my house than go to the linea. “Absolutely! We had brought a good selection of clothing and dolls that should sell well this Christmas 257

season. “ I made chicken mole and rice. Do you want wheat or corn tortillas? “Marge did not scold her this time but said that she could not eat for at least one hour and a half. It is so hard to deny Maria’s generosity. Meanwhile, she bombarded us with beer, chips, and nuts. We gave Maria and Manuel their Christmas gifts and bid them open them now. Manuel and Javier received some of those chocolate-wrapped gold coins with a ten-dollar bill attached. I neglected to mention that our first stop today was at Guillermo Prieto to drop candy off for dona Emilia, Luz, Erick, and Jaime. Javier was there waiting to go to a party at his school. He looked very sharp in a new t-shirt and new pants. Tomorrow, Saturday he will go back to Villa Fontana. Maria received a beautiful rosemary Christmas tree, a tablecloth for her company, and a $50 bill from her “tio Juanito”, brother John. Cousin Gail sent a picture of herself with the inscription, “now you know what I look like”. This found its way into her photo album almost immediately.

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