Key Buyer 2018 Industry Update - Fall Edition

FALL EDITION

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3 dishes luring meat-lovers to seafood

FOODSERVICE

Looking for Lent’s iconic dish Q&A Lent for US

POLICY

Trump’s trade war has few winners KB18_BestSeafood_ThirdCvrAd_edits2.pdf

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FALL EDITION

DIGITAL PRODUCT MANAGER Faith Irek / firek@divcom.com EXECUTIVE EDITOR Cliff White / cwhite@divcom.com EDITOR Madelyn Kearns / mkearns@divcom.com

Key Buyer 2018 Industry Update The air may be getting colder, but with 2019 and a new Lenten season on the horizon, things are about to heat up for the seafood industry.

An adventurous approach to the seafood category this past summer has paved the way for more of the same heading into 2019, especially as far as the industry’s premier selling season is concerned.

“Fish specifically ride the wave of Lent the most,” said Megan Nelson of the research firm Nielsen Holdings. This fact is likely to continue to hold true when the 2019 season rolls around on 6 March, as numerous industry experts alongside Nelson have attested.

In fact, many seafood industry stakeholders all along the supply chain are already hard at work implementing their Lenten strategies for next year, examining current consumer trends, policy developments, supply obstacles and opportunities, and more. North American seafood companies continue to introduce new products, trial new fish species for commercial use, and expand innovative marketing partnerships, seemingly undaunted by a U.S. president pursuing protectionist economic policies and stoking trade wars with long-time trading partners – a testament to the relentless fortitude and perseverance of the continent’s seafood sector.

Similarly, SeafoodSource maintains its vigilance in investigating and analyzing the top key buyer trends driving the sector onward and upward, producing this guide – the third of its kind – to keep you at the forefront of all the changes impacting your businesses into 2019 and beyond.

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Chris Chase / cchase@divcom.com SENIOR PRODUCTION DESIGNER Theresa Slusher / tslusher@divcom.com ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Kathleen Libby / klibby@divcom.com

@seafoodsource seafoodsource Diversified Communications 121 Free Street, P.O. Box 7438 Portland, ME 04112-7438 Ph: (207) 842-5606 Fax: (207) 842-5603 Published by Diversified Communications Producer of : Seafood Expo North America, Seafood Processing North America, Seafood Expo Global, Seafood Processing Global, Seafood Expo Asia and SeafoodSource Theodore Wirth President/CEO Mary Larkin Executive Vice President Liz Plizga Group VP, Seafood Events Mary Fowler Sales Manager, SeafoodSource Heidi Weeks Sales, SeafoodSource

Why wait? Read on for some of the industry’s hottest takes on Lent and the new year.

Madelyn Kearns Editor, SeafoodSource mkearns@divcom.com

Ph: (207) 842-5500 Fax: (207) 842-5505 divcom.com Copyright© 2018 Diversified Communications PRINTED IN U.S.A.

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SeafoodSource

03 INDUSTRY UPDATE 04 ADVERTISER INDEX

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

06

Trump’s trade war has few clear winners in U.S. seafood

By Chris Chase

10

Looking for Lent’s iconic dish

By Jeffrey Spear

14

Relentless planning: Retailers gear up for 2019 Lenten season

By Madelyn Kearns

18

Excel-Lent: 3 dishes luring meat-lovers to seafood during Lent

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By Sally James

24

Lent for US: Jennifer Wandler reveals how US Foods approaches seafood’s top season

By Cliff White

26

Wegmans winning over “time-starved” Americans to seafood during Lent

By Madelyn Kearns

Fall Edition

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POLICY

Trump’s trade war has few clear winners in U.S. seafood

By Chris Chase

For virtually every seafood sector in the United States, the trade war kicked off by the administration of President Donald Trump has either directly harmed business, or made life more difficult.

FIRST COMING INTO EFFECT IN JULY, the tariffs implemented by the United States on Chinese goods were almost immediately met with retaliatory tariffs by China. Combined, the tariffs target billions of dollars of goods.

Initial hopes by the seafood industry that its products would go untargeted were soon dashed once China’s retaliatory tariffs took direct aim at seafood. In response, the United States upped the ante with tariffs on Chinese goods, with seafood finally coming into the fray on the U.S. side.

Ramifications from the trade war have had an immediate effect on some sectors. The shipment of live lobsters to China has been one segment hit hardest, with U.S. exports of the luxury crustacean sent plummeting once a 25 percent tax on the species went into effect. According to WISERTrade, a trade analysis firm, shipments of lobster to China fell 64 percent in July 2018 alone.

For some seafood companies that shipped live lobsters to China, the difference in volumes before and after China’s punitive tariffs came into play has been drastic. York, Maine-based company Maine Coast, for instance, has practically ended its lobster exports to China due to the tariffs.

“We did fine right up to the beginning of July, we were on track for normal revenue into China,” said Tom Adams, who owns Maine Coast. “We already had the European tariff, so our European sales were down a little bit, but we were maintaining our revenue, similar to 2017.”

“And then the tariff came,” he said.

Sales dropped 89 percent after the tariffs started, according to Adams, and showed little signs of improvement over subsequent months. To compensate, Adams has been forced to venture into new markets, increasing Maine Coast’s non-China sales by 11 percent.

6 | 2018 KEY BUYER INDUSTRY UPDATE

SALES DROPPED 89 PERCENT at lobster exporter Maine Coast after the tariffs started, according to owner Tom Adams, and showed little signs of improvement over subsequent months.

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But the loss of China’s hungry market still looms large.

“We shipped to 29 different countries last year. But you don’t replace a market the size of China,” Adams said. “You’re not going to replace billions of people.”

Maine Coast isn’t the only company that has been harmed in the tariff spat. The Lobster Co., based out of Arundel, Maine, has been forced to lay off workers due to the lack of shipments to China.

Since the tariffs started, owner Stephanie Nadeau has shipped just eight small orders to China. While not all lobster companies have been adversely affected by the tariffs, those that avoided the hit typically didn’t ship any volumes to China, according to Maine newspaper The Portland Press Herald.

Re-important distinctions Lobster and exports aren’t the only sectors struggling under the new tariffs – re-imported seafood that has been processed in China has also, in some cases, been dealt a blow by U.S. tariffs.

According to Jeremy Woodrow, communications director for the Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute, about USD 2.7 billion (EUR 2.3 billion) of re-processed seafood comes back from China annually, with Alaska seafood representing the majority. The low cost of labor in China makes processing in the country an attractive option for many companies, and shifting that processing to the United States isn’t feasible, Woodrow argued.

“We would love to be able to process more seafood in Alaska, but it would take at least 25 years to build up our infrastructure, and we sometimes even struggle to find the workforce to complete the processing that we do now,” he told SeafoodSource.

In response to pressure from various industries, some U.S. tariffs excused certain species commonly processed in China and re-imported to the United States. But even in these cases, the designations used could leave the window open for seafood originating in other countries to enter the United States duty-free after being processed in China, such as Russian pollock.

Neither pain nor gain While some domestic seafood industries aren’t getting hit heavily by tariffs, they’re also not benefitting a great deal, either. The Gulf of Mexico shrimp industry, for example, isn’t benefitting much from tariffs on Chinese shrimp, and doesn’t tend to ship product to China for processing.

8 | 2018 KEY BUYER INDUSTRY UPDATE

“There is no significant portion of U.S. shrimp production that exports shrimp to China for further processing. This has been considered – there are Customs rulings that were requested and issued that would facilitate such practices – but it is not a practice that has been adopted,” said John Williams of the Southern Shrimp Alliance, a trade

“Without access to seafood imports from important markets like China, or if these products become too expensive, jobs here in the U.S. will pay the price.” organization representing shrimpers in the Gulf.

For U.S.-based shrimp harvesters, the biggest benefit to any tariffs would be increased prices on breaded and value-added shrimp shipped from China, said Williams. But the tariff impact, he added, is limited.

“The Southern Shrimp Alliance understands from breaded shrimp producers in the United States that the availability of cheap Chinese breaded shrimp has led to massive declines in breaded shrimp production in the United States,” Williams said. “Increased prices for Chinese breaded shrimp would make U.S. breaded shrimp more competitive; but breaders can use imported shrimp or domestic shrimp as feedstock for their operations, so a boon to the breaded shrimp industry in the U.S. doesn’t necessarily benefit other domestic producers in the shrimp industry.”

Hard times in the heartland More than 80 trade organizations representing a broad swathe of American industries, from manufacturing to farming, have created a national campaign titled Tariffs Hurt the Heartland, aimed at telling the story of U.S. workers impacted by the trade war. The National Fisheries Institute recently joined the campaign, advocating for a return to free trade.

“American jobs are fueled by international trade in seafood,” NFI President John Connelly said in a press release. “Without access to seafood imports from important markets like China, or if these products become too expensive, jobs here in the U.S. will pay the price.”

Regardless of whether the tariffs have directly impacted them or not, one thing that’s consistent across all parts of the seafood industry is the frustrating uncertainty the trade war is bringing.

“It’s like someone put a bag over your head, and you can’t really see,” Nadeau of The Lobster Co. said. “Will this go on indefinitely?

You can’t really make plans. It’s very strange.”

Fall Edition

FOODSERVICE

Looking for Lent’s iconic dish

by Jeffrey Spear

PREPARATIONS FOR RELIGIOUS as well For Lent, followers maintain a fast consisting as secular holidays are rich with culinary of one simple meal each day based upon Preparations for traditions and iconic heritage dishes in abstinence laws that prohibit meat (anything religious as well as North America. derived from land-based animals such as chickens, secular holidays are Easter has its chocolate bunnies and baked cows, sheep, or pigs). rich with culinary hams. Thanksgiving has turkey with a gluttonous Although seafood preparations for Lent can array of sides. Independence Day for the United include finfish, shellfish, amphibians, and even traditions and iconic States prompts backyard barbeques featuring reptiles, the absence of iconic dishes for this heritage dishes in hot dogs, hamburgers, and a chest full of icy cold holiday is surprising. Considering how creative North America. beers on 4 July. and innovative chefs and home cooks have When it comes to seafood, there’s the Feast become, there are plenty of opportunities for of the Seven Fishes at Christmastime and, mere days later, lobster Lenten meals to evolve and become classics. and champagne to ring in the new year. These festivities attract a It’s important to note that Lent is considered a time for fair amount of consumerism to seafood, but the industry’s primary introspection and repenting, not joyous celebrations. That being time to shine typically occurs a few months later, as winter thaws to said, Fat Tuesday precedes Lent, providing the perfect opportunity spring and dinner plates swap out meat for fish during Lenten season. to introduce creative and innovative dishes. While the festivities of 10 | 2018 KEY BUYER INDUSTRY UPDATE

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Of course, Longo clearly embraces innovation and understands that ethnic flavors have undeniable appeal. Rockfish, a regional favorite, appears on her menu as Rockfish Dumplings served with seaweed salad, a mandarin orange sambal dipping sauce, and a Mongolian BBQ sauce. There’s also Indonesian Mussels and Chesapeake Clams steamed and served in a clam and coconut curry broth with leeks, Longo noted.

Other operators have elected to work with significantly more esoteric seafoods including alligator, crawfish, octopus, frog, snake, and turtle. Considering the popularity of these ingredients in Louisiana, it’s no surprise to find Shrimp and Alligator Cheesecake on the menu at Roux 61 in Natchez; Turtle Soup au Sherry from

“Patrons who favor seafood for Lent already know that, when they visit Hank’s Oyster Bar, there will be plenty of daily specials from which to choose.”

Mardi Gras will fade, these same dishes can be well-received throughout the entire Lenten season.

In speaking with both wholesale and foodservice operators, there was no clear evidence of special promotions or marketing agendas being implemented specifically for Lent. This being said, everyone agreed that seafood inventories needed to be bumped up in anticipation of increased consumption.

“We typically craft allowance programs on the foodservice side to help drive sales pre-Lent,” according to Bluzette Carline, the marketing director for Beaver Street Fisheries. “It’s the same for retail. We typically work with retailers to provide in-store support and assist in driving seafood sales when seafood is top-of-mind with shoppers.”

Alternatively, some operators rely upon longstanding brand equity, believing there is no need to make special preparations for this particular holiday season.

“Patrons who favor seafood for Lent already know that, when they visit Hank’s Oyster Bar, there will be plenty of daily specials from which to choose,” explained Shane Mayson, marketing director for the JL Restaurant Group.

Nancy Longo, chef and owner of Baltimore’s Pierpoint Restaurant, which is renowned for some of the city’s best crab cakes, has a similar take.

“We understand that seafood is important during Lent,” Longo said. “While we do not embrace special promotions, we increase the number of seafood specials on our menu.”

When it comes to innovative menu offerings, Longo added, “It has been interesting to see that seafood combos sell twice as fast as a single grilled or sautéed fish offerings. If we add a lobster sauce or top a fillet with crab meat, these will be the dishes our patrons prefer.”

12 | 2018 KEY BUYER INDUSTRY UPDATE

Galatoire’s in New Orleans; or Frog Legs from The Gregory in Baton Rouge.

In Boston, Chef John Ross at Neptune Oyster Bar is always trying out something special, for Lent and beyond.

“We are committed to always pushing the envelope and moving forward when it comes to the dishes and ingredients we bring in,” Ross said.

Accordingly, the restaurant’s Whole Roasted Mackerel Veracruz served with tomato brodo, olives, potatoes, orange, Puya chiles, shaved fennel, and chimichurri has become a fish-lover’s favorite.

Seafood innovation has also found its way into poutine – a comfort food that originated in Quebec, Canada, that starts with a foundation of french fries topped with cheddar cheese curds and brown gravy. In Montreal, Canada, Chez Delmo offers a Seafood Poutine that features scallops, shrimp, and crayfish. There’s also a richly satisfying Clam Chowder Poutine from Littleneck in Brooklyn, New York, and Lobster Poutine from Louie’s Wine Dive in Kansas City, Kansas.

While still in its infancy, seacuterie – the mashup of charcuterie and seafood – is slowly taking root in a number of restaurants around the country. This is fish and shellfish preserved in a manner similar to pastrami, mortadella, and even nduja, a spicy spreadable pork sausage. Along with conservas (tinned seafoods), seacuterie is arguably the next step in shareable, snackable seafood, and could also feasibly find a foothold during Lenten season.

From a retail perspective, and not necessarily in response to Fall Edition

FOODSERVICE

Lent or any other holiday, many of the innovative culinary practices embraced by foodservice operators are finding their way into both refrigerated and frozen seafood departments.

Ethnic formulations have proven successful for Orca Bay Seafoods. While the company introduced Hawaiian Poke (seasoned raw fish) a short while ago, their latest innovations include Jjamppong Korean Seafood Noodles, made with cod, mussels, shrimp, and squid in a rich, somewhat spicy broth; and Albondigas, a Mexican seafood soup featuring meatballs made with cod and shrimp in a rich tomato chili broth.

Similarly, Beaver Street Fisheries’ Sea Best brand has introduced two Asian-inspired shrimp soup bowls: Shrimp Wonton Soup and Spicy Tom Yum Shrimp Wonton Soup. Meanwhile, Phillips Foods’ Seafood Skillets line now includes Asian Style Crispy Orange Shrimp, Parmesan Crab and Shrimp Ravioli, and New Orleans Style Shrimp.

There’s no denying that demand and interest in seafood for the Lenten season will continue to influence activity in both retail and foodservice environments. Considering the increasing depth and availability of esoteric high-quality ingredients, seafood varieties, and emerging flavor preferences – whether earmarked for Lent or other religious or secular holidays – there is plenty of innovation and inspired culinary creation to enjoy.

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R E TA I L

Relentless planning: Retailers gear up for 2019 Lenten season

By Madelyn Kearns

“We are planning to campaign for Americans COMMITMENTS LOOMS LARGE for the seafood industry during Lenten season, a nearly six-week to eat more seafood in 2019, and Lent is that “We are planning period in the Christian liturgical calendar reserved perfect seasonal opportunity,” said Victoria Parr, each year for religious observance and reflection. the domestic marketing director for the Alaska to campaign for During the 40 days comprising Lent between Seafood Marketing Institute (ASMI), which partners Americans to eat more Ash Wednesday and the Easter holiday, many with both foodservice and retail clients to promote seafood in 2019, and observers ascribe to some form of fasting, Alaska seafood products in North America and Lent is that perfect abstinence, and penitence, often temporarily around the world. eliminating red meat from their diets as part of For Lent 2019, ASMI will be looking to capitalize seasonal opportunity.” the process. on consumers’ current desire for “functional foods,” Parr said. The organization expects its With meat off the menu for many, the seafood industry’s core commitment of nourishing the upcoming “Powered by Wild” campaign – which world through quality proteins becomes even more pronounced, will feature native Alaskan Crystal Worl “executing her strength and which is why several retail stakeholders have already started planning balance in yoga” whilst educating shoppers about the functional nutritional advantages of wild Alaska seafood – to take off during for the 2019 Lenten season, set to begin on 6 March.

14 | 2018 KEY BUYER INDUSTRY UPDATE

Fall Edition

R E TA I L

Lent after its debut next year in January, according to Parr.

Consumer concerns for “American jobs and climate change” are also things Parr anticipates will play into the way ASMI and its partners approach the Lenten period next year. In this regard, ASMI’s “100% Delicious” merchandizing POS line should continue to see success, Parr said.

“Our retail partners are taking advantage of our new ‘100% Delicious’ POS line that helps them ‘paint’ the store from front to back with the faces and places of Alaska,” she said. “Our research shows that consumers appreciate that transparency and are more likely to trust the retailer that proudly supports Alaska seafood as sustainable, American fisheries.”

What’s new?

Pennsylvania-based seafood distributor Samuels & Son Seafood Co., Inc., has also started outlining its approach to Lent for 2019.

Not only will the supplier be looking to deliver on Lenten mainstay species such as salmon, cod, tilapia, and flounder, but newer options

will also be up for consideration, said William Bradford, the company’s marketing coordinator.

“Lent is a really great time – whether it’s foodservice or retail – to turn [consumers] onto new fish, because we have the numbers – so many people are eating seafood at this time,” Bradford explained.

Barramundi and cobia are just a few species that have taken off over the past few years during Lent for Samuels & Son, Bradford said, and the company is continuously on the lookout for even more new species opportunities leading into 2019. “We’re always keeping an eye on anything new that we want to push, or any markets that are down that we want to work with and take advantage of,” he added.

Parr said ASMI and its retail partners are also keeping a pulse on new, on-trend species and recipes in the lead-up to Lent 2019.

“We know that one group in particular is looking for new on-trend recipes and so we are developing them with our partners at seriouseats.com. We are just finishing eight new wild Alaska pollock recipes, from Falafels to Waffles. They will be available by

Brought to you by SeafoodSource | 15

R E TA I L

National Seafood Month in October and will be part of the collection for Lent, featured on our new Serious Eats widget ‘Go Fish.’ Users will be able select the Alaska seafood species they are interested in cooking, along with the style they would like to cook, and get a “When you are working recipe served up,” Parr said.

“Certain warehouses may be closed that we have to deliver to, or our shipment may not get here,” he said. “And, unlike with the restaurant industry, when there’s horrible weather, there’s a lot of people at the grocery store. So, we always have to ensure that with Mother Nature, you we have our supply no matter must be flexible and move with the seasons.” what, that everything is in house, Forecasting trouble and that we just communicate While many seafood sellers completely with the retailers, and distributors at the retail level are pondering the exciting who really depend on fish for the Lent period.” possibilities on the horizon for Lent in 2019, they’re also preparing For ASMI, countering possible setbacks due to adverse weather for some inevitable obstacles. conditions around Lenten season largely hinges on embracing the most abundant resources.

According to Bradford of Samuels & Son, one of the most pressing “We are always promoting our most abundant resource, wild potential challenges associated with Lent for the seafood industry has to do with forecasting, but not in the financial sense.

Alaska pollock and with the new frozen product forms, that is getting “Weather. Weather can change everything,” Bradford said. easier and easier,” Parr said. “We will stand by to hear from industry at our All Hands meeting in October about where we are in terms Because “Lent usually is around that time when there’s still snowstorms,” seafood sellers have to stay on their toes and be of harvests, to determine where our promotional opportunities will proactive in a way that can keep adverse weather from freezing be focused afterwards. When you are working with Mother Nature, out possible sales, Bradford said. you must be flexible and move with the seasons.”

Looking back THE ALASKA SEAFOOD MARKETING INSTITUTE

Earth Fare (Fletcher, North Carolina) – Earth

partnered with several North American retailers to

Fare highlighted sockeye salmon in March and did

promote seafood sales and campaigns during the

again in May, with 46 in-store demos each month

2018 Lenten season. Victoria Parr, ASMI’s domestic

that were further supported by social media efforts.

marketing director, details some of the most

Stores saw a 92 percent sales lift for the first round

successful promotions from last year.

of demos that took place on 23 March.

Giant Eagle (Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania) – ASMI

QFC (Bellevue, Washington) – Quality Food

partnered with Giant Eagle for a successful Lent 2018

Center (QFC), a division of Fred Meyer, partnered

promotion that delivered sales 6.5 percent over the

with ASMI’s preferred wine partner Chateau Ste.

Lenten 2017 season. Promotional activity included

Michelle to showcase wine displays in the seafood

ads featuring wild Alaska salmon and cod with logos,

department, promoting ASMI’s Ibotta campaign

store signage with decals, and merchandising in

bundling Alaska pollock with H3 wines. The retail

store featuring wild Alaska salmon and cod. There

chain also implemented a sales contest highlighting

was a contest targeting Alaska panko cod and wild

the Ibotta promotion, with cash sales incentives

Alaska salmon, which generated USD 1.8 million in

offered to the top three stores per district with the

sales for the eight weeks of the contest.

highest percent increase of Alaska seafood sales,

H.E.B. (San Antonio, Texas) – H.E.B. featured wild

as well as district prizes for the top performing

Alaska pollock with 252 Showtime-Fresh Cart Demos

employees. Seventy-three percent of the stores

in March 2018. Each store displayed and distributed

participated, and QFC increased its sales by

Alaska pollock POS and recipes, supported with

4.4 percent in the face of increased prices on

social media ads developed and funded by ASMI.

many Alaska items. The chain saw over USD

The events all received great attendance and the

1.2 million in Alaska seafood sales for Lent.

Alaska pollock samples were so well loved that

Additionally, digital QFC ads featured halibut and

several stores sold out.

sockeye salmon over Lent.

16 | 2018 KEY BUYER INDUSTRY UPDATE

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Excel-Lent:

3 dishes luring meat-lovers to seafood during Lent

By Sally James

FISH IS TO LENT AROUND THE WORLD what turkey is to Thanksgiving in the United States – the heart of the plate. As such, the Lenten season is one of great importance to the seafood industry, as well as the communities dedicated to honoring the values associated with the fasting period.

The approximate month-long Lent duration often sees Christian communities reflecting and eating in moderation – abstaining from certain foods such as sugar and alcohol, and meat on Fridays – to show thanks for the sacrifices made by Jesus Christ.

With meat on the sideline for many consumers, restaurateurs and chefs go to great lengths to update their fish offerings in anticipation of Lent, a strategy that many 18 | 2018 KEY BUYER INDUSTRY UPDATE

“You will definitely sell more fish over Lent, and you don’t want to run the risk of running out of one of your seafood offerings, particularly scallops and lobster.” health advocates can get on board with, including the American Heart Association, which recommends people enjoy two to three meals of fish or seafood per week.

Dylan Schauwecker of Narcoosie’s in Orlando, Florida, is one of those proactive chefs, especially when it comes to Lent.

Schauwecker, who has overseen kitchens in

both seafood and meat-centric restaurants during his career, can guarantee that restaurants will sell more fish during Lent, which is why he’s adamant about being prepared.

“You will definitely sell more fish over Lent, and you don’t want to run the risk of running out of one of your seafood offerings, particularly scallops and lobster,” Schauwecker said. For that reason, seafood that is snap-frozen right off the boat is good to have on hand, he added.

Shauwecker finds it interesting that scallops are such a popular choice for meateaters during Lent. “It could be because of the texture or that they are mild and rich,” he hypothesized.

No matter the reason, Shauwecker Fall Edition

suggests highlighting scallops on restaurant menus. Featuring scallops and other seafood items at the top of menus, if possible, is a successful strategy during Lent, he said. Shauwecker also recommends setting a special prix-fixe menu suitable for those observing Lent when the time comes.

Pam Smith, a restaurant consultant, registered nutritionist, and chef, can relate to Shauwecker’s approach. She has advised many of her clients, such as Capital Grill, Flemings, and Seasons 52, about the power of highlighting great seafood choices during Lent.

has caught on around the world with fish and chips dishes is adding Guinness beer or an Irish ale to the batter, which brings depth to the coating and facilitates a crispier crust.

2. Oven-roasted salt cod Baccalà lesso, or boiled, salt-cured cod, is an Italian dish served during Lent throughout many European countries.

For instance, in Portugal, the recipe for salted cod is one of 1,001 that guides the country’s people through each calendar year. Cooking cod in this fashion intensifies

Deep-fried and battered fish

RECIPES

1 Irish Ale & Thyme Battered Fish (SERVES 4)

INGREDIENTS • 225g (1 1/2 cups) self-rising flour • 1 egg, lightly whisked • 375ml (1 1/2 cups) chilled light beer • Salt & freshly ground black pepper • Vegetable oil, to deep-fry

“Most restaurants have a seafood offering on their menu, so it’s more a matter of making it visible and providing some specials that would suit meat lovers.”

• 8 (about 120g each) white fish fillets (such as flathead or whiting) • Sea salt flakes, to serve • Lemon wedges, to serve

“Most restaurants have a seafood offering on their menu, so it’s more a matter of making it visible and providing some specials that would suit meat lovers,” Smith said. “Whole fish, such as spring trout prepared simply, is very popular at Lent, as are dishes that offer an element of decadence and comfort, like a rich clam chowder.”

When looking to please those not too familiar with fish, some foodservice experts and enterprises agree that it’s best to stick with a fairly mild and firm fish, such as toothfish or swordfish, and recognizable seafood fare such as lobster, scallops, and prawns.

The following three dishes highlight some of those species and more, offering a glimpse into the innovative ways the culinary sector approaches Lent in North American and around the world.

1. Deep-fried and battered fish Battered and deep-fried fish is a dish that brings seafood into the meat-lover’s world, and takes away any sense of deprivation.

In Ireland, fish and chips is probably the most commonly consumed fish dish on Lenten Fridays, with wild salmon coming in a close second. An Irish tradition that

20 | 2018 KEY BUYER INDUSTRY UPDATE

its salty flavor and produces an irresistible sauce resulting from the mix of olive oil, garlic, and the cod juices. (Find recipe on page 22).

3. Lightly-smoked ocean trout with a poached egg Mark Dommen at San Francisco, California’s One Market can’t take his “Lightly Smoked Tasmanian Ocean Trout” dish off the menu, as diners eagerly return for the crisp potato rösti topped with the moist, sweet fish. Some will argue that, next to the trout, the dish’s real winning touch is the crown of poached egg, which spills its molten, golden yolk over the fish like a rich sauce, giving a sense of pure, simple luxury.

San Francisco isn’t really a city that makes a big deal out of religious festivals, but Dommen says he definitely sells more fish during the Lenten season. His recommendation to other restaurateurs is to have alternatives for the meats that often accompany seafood dishes, such as bacon and pancetta, before Lent hits. For example, One Market’s ocean trout dish substitutes a warm herb vinaigrette for its usual pancetta during Lent. (Find recipe on page 22).

METHOD 1. Place flour in a bowl. Add the egg and stir to combine. Gradually whisk in beer until batter is smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and place in the fridge for 30 minutes to rest.

2. Add enough vegetable oil to a large saucepan to reach a depth of 8cm. Heat to 190°C over high heat (when oil is ready, a cube of bread will turn golden brown in 10 seconds). Dip two pieces of fish, one at a time, into batter to coat. Drain off excess.

Deep-fry for 3-4 minutes or until golden brown and cooked. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towel. Repeat, in three more batches, with remaining fish and batter, reheating oil between batches.

Lemon Aioli INGREDIENTS • 1/2 cup mayonnaise • 1 clove garlic, minced • ½ tsp lemon zest • 3 tablespoons lemon juice • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

METHOD 1. In a medium bowl, mix all the ingredients together. Serve as dipping sauce.

Recipe courtesy of the blog Farmette, written RECIPES by an American transplant toMORE an Irish farm.

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rev4116

Oven-roasted salt cod

Lightly-smoked ocean trout

TRENDS

2

3 Oven-roasted Salted Cod / Bacalhau Assado (SERVES 4)

Lightly-smoked Tasmanian Ocean Trout “Mi Cuit” (SERVES 4)

INGREDIENTS • 1 pound Tasmanian ocean trout

INGREDIENTS

• Apple wood smoking chips

• 2 soaked cod steaks (from the thicker sections of the cod) – split in two halves for serving *

• Sea salt

• 1/2 cup of extra virgin olive oil

• 1/2 bunch watercress, cleaned and picked

• 8 cloves of garlic

• 1 large Yukon gold potato

• 1 bunch of spring greens

• 4 organic chicken eggs, medium sized

• 10 small potatoes • 1/2 teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda • Sea salt

• Fresh ground black pepper • 1 tablespoon crème fraîche

• 4 tablespoons grapeseed oil plus 1/2 cup • 4 small shallots, approximately 2 oz. chopped • 1/4 cup sherry vinegar • 1/4 cup wild flower honey

METHODS

• 1/4 cup vegetable stock

1. Wash potatoes thoroughly, place them on a roasting tray and sprinkle liberally with sea salt. Bake in a medium/hot oven.

• 1/2 cup fresh herbs of choice

2. Place the cod steaks (skin side down) on a baking tray lined generously with olive oil, cover with finely chopped garlic and pour the remaining olive oil over the cod.

3. Bake potatoes and cod for about an hour, turning the potatoes and basting the cod with the oil once.

4. Five minutes before the cod and potatoes are ready, boil the greens in salted water, add the bicarbonate of soda (this will make them keep a bright green color while helping achieve a tender texture).

Once cooked, drain in a colander.

5. Serve the cod on a bed of greens, punch open the potatoes, and pour the flavored olive oil from the baking tray. * Salted cod needs to be soaked in cold water for two to three days (depending on the thickness of the steaks). Water should be changed twice daily.

Recipe courtesy of Pasto.

22 | 2018 KEY BUYER INDUSTRY UPDATE

• 1 tablespoon tarragon, chopped • 1 tablespoon chives, chopped

METHODS 1. Fillet the Tasmanian ocean trout and remove all the bones, but keep the skin on – it’s easier to handle in the smoker with the skin on. Place in a cold smoker and smoke over apple wood chips for at least 30 minutes. Remove the fillets from the smoker, then remove the skin and any of the fat on the skin side of the fillet. Spread a piece of plastic wrap out on a cutting board and wrap the fillets together to form a tight tube – this should take several layers of plastic. It should look like a long sausage at this stage. Place the wrapped ocean trout in the refrigerator until ready to use.

2. Cook the Yukon gold potato in salted boiling water until cooked, but still very firm. The potato is cooked when a metal skewer can penetrate it with little resistance. Drain the potato and, when it’s cold enough to handle, peel and cut it into a julienne using a Japanese mandolin with middle-sized teeth. Place the julienne potato into a bowl, and mix to taste with the sea salt and fresh ground black pepper. Heat four blini pans over medium heat and place a tablespoon of grapeseed oil in each pan. Divide the potato mixture into each pan and pack down the potatoes until a nice rössti cake forms, then cook until a golden crust forms. Turn the potato rössti

over and cook until the other side also has a golden brown crust. Remove the rössti from the pan and place on a plate lined with a paper towel. Keep warm.

3. For the vinaigrette, add the 1/4 cup of grapeseed oil to the pan along with the chopped shallots. Lower the heat and sweat the shallots until they are translucent, but they should not caramelize during this process. Next add the sherry vinegar, honey, and vegetable stock. Bring to a boil and then turn down and allow the flavors to come together. This should take about five minutes. Add the fresh herbs to the vinaigrette and season to taste with sea salt and fresh ground black pepper. Set aside.

4. Preheat the oven to 150 degrees and add a pan of hot water to create some humidity or light steam. Portion the ocean trout out into 2 oz.-sized portions by cutting directly across the tube of trout. It is key to leave the trout wrapped with plastic as this will help hold the shape and keep the trout perfectly round.

Season the trout with salt and place into the oven at 110 degrees for 18-20 minutes. The trout will cook at this temperature, but it will still have that same raw appearance.

5. While the trout is cooking, place a mediumsized saucepot on the stove and fill it with water to poach the eggs. When the water has come to a boil, add a cup of white wine vinegar to the water and drop in the chicken eggs one at a time. Turn down the heat and cook until the whites are firm, but the yolk is still runny.

Remove the eggs from the water and season with fresh ground pepper and some fleur de sel.

6. To plate the dish, divide the crème fraîche evenly among four plates. Top the crème fraîche with a warm potato rössti. In a small bowl, toss the watercress with some of the vinaigrette and divide among the four plates, placing it on top of the potato rössti. Remove the Tasmanian ocean trout from the oven and remove the plastic wrap.

Place the trout on top of the watercress and then the poached egg on top of the trout. Finally, heat the herb vinaigrette and finish it with the chopped tarragon and chives and spoon this around the plate. Serve.

Recipe courtesy of Mark Dommen and One Market.

Fall Edition

Q&A

Lent for US: Jennifer Wandler reveals how US Foods approaches seafood’s top season

By Cliff White

ROSEMONT, ILLINOIS-BASED US Foods is one of America’s largest broadline food distribution companies, counting approximately 250,000 restaurants and foodservice operators as clients. The company generated approximately USD 24 billion (EUR 20 billion) in annual revenue in 2017.

SeafoodSource interviewed Jennifer Wandler, US Foods Senior Director Category Management – Seafood, about the company’s approach to Lent and how it affects US Foods’ bottom line.

SeafoodSource: Does US Foods notice an uptick in its seafood sales as a result of Lent?

Wandler: We definitely see an uptick in seafood sales during the Lenten season.

It typically starts a week or two prior to Ash Wednesday and will continue through Easter.

SeafoodSource: What products or seafood species typically experience a bump? In other words, what seafood species or preparations tend to be popular during Lent?

Wandler: Beer-battered and breaded seafood items are very popular with our customers. Most white-flesh finfish and shrimp tend to experience sales lifts, but in general, we see an increase across all seafood categories as consumption is at some of its highest levels of the year.

SeafoodSource: What is the timeline of your customers’ purchases?

How much lead-time does US Foods factor in when planning for the Lenten season?

Wandler: We plan well in advance to ensure we can meet and exceed 24 | 2018 KEY BUYER INDUSTRY UPDATE

“We definitely see an uptick in seafood sales during the Lenten season. It typically starts a week or two prior to Ash Wednesday and will continue through Easter.” independent restaurant demands with the right product assortment for their menus.

Conversations with our customers start early in the year so that we can inspire our independent restaurant operators to think differently about seafood menu options.

Whether it’s adding a new seafood menu item or optimizing the products they currently buy, our goal is to make sure our operators are prepared and ready to meet their diner needs head-on.

SeafoodSource: Does US Foods run any specials, campaigns, or promotions for Lent?

Wandler: Yes, we typically dedicate a large national flyer to Lent as well as local promotions for our independent restaurant customers.

And, we strategically launch and highlight more seafood products leading into Lent during our Spring Scoop product launch dedicated to highlighting versatile on-trend products for operators. Our last Spring Scoop launch featured a wide variety of sustainable seafood products our operators can easily use in a variety of applications.

SeafoodSource: What are some of US Foods’ new products that you’re especially excited about for this upcoming Lenten season?

Wandler: Some of my favorite new products are: • Harbor Banks Beer-Battered Alaskan Polllock: Marine Stewardship Council (MSC)

certified. Sustainably sourced, delicious and cost-effective, our Pollock is deep-skinned and frozen only once. Battered in a coffee-andcaramel-tinged Alaskan Oatmeal Stout, this product is easy to fry from frozen, for hot fish baskets or tender, flaky fish tacos.

• Harbor Banks Fresh Crumb Breaded Shrimp: Four-star Best Aquaculture Practices (BAP)-certified shrimp are hand-breaded in a crisp, fresh crumb, with the tails left unbreaded for easier eating. Light, neutral flavor makes them a perfect match for the seasonings and sauces.

• Harbor Banks Coho Salmon: Four-star BAP-certified. A sustainably sourced fish that’s fed sustainably. Raised on nutrient-rich feed, our Coho Salmon delivers the topquality flavor, texture and nutrition you value in salmon. The portioned 6-oz. servings are individually vacuum-packed, frozen and ready for signature touches (on the cover of our Spring Scoop Magazine).

SeafoodSource: Are there any main challenges or concerns you’re keeping an eye on leading up to the 2019 Lenten season?

Wandler: We consider a number of factors such as seafood trends, trade issues, pricing, supply, quota reductions, and supply, just to name a few. However, our advanced planning helps to ensure we can meet demands and offer our customers a strong breadth and depth of options for their diners.

Fall Edition

Q&A

Wegmans winning over “time-starved” Americans

By Madelyn Kearns

BASED OUT OF GATES, NEW YORK, supermarket chain Wegmans Food Markets operates more than 90 stores in the U.S. mid-Atlantic and New England regions. The company sells a wide range of farmed and wild-caught seafood to its loyal customer base – most of whom are trying to live healthy with only so much time to spare, according to Wegmans’ Category Merchant for Seafood Mark Fromm.

In this interview with SeafoodSource, Fromm discusses Wegmans’ approach to “time-starved” Americans, international business relationships, and more.

SeafoodSource: What are some of your key considerations when it comes to sourcing seafood for Wegmans?

Fromm: [Below is a bulleted list of factors driving Wegmans’ seafood sourcing practices, according to Fromm].

• Food Safety: GFSI-certification (SQF, BRC, etc..) is a must for all suppliers that we bring on. There is nothing more important to us than insuring that the food we sell to our customers is produced or processed in a certified food-safe environment.

• Sustainability: Sourcing our seafood sustainably has been the keystone of Wegmans Seafood Mission Statement for decades; and as buyers, we take the responsibility very seriously. All the wild seafood we sell is: 1) MSC-certified, 2) Under direct management of NOAA, 3) certified sustainable under a governmental FAObased Responsible Fisheries Management model (i.e.: Iceland Responsible Fisheries), or 4) from a fishery that is partnering with a Wegmans supplier in a fishery improvement project (FIP). For farm-raised seafood, Wegmans only sources from farms that are two-plus star BAP certified or ASC-certified.

26 | 2018 KEY BUYER INDUSTRY UPDATE

• Traceability: Our strong supplier partnerships and having the ability to trace our seafood through the supply chain, insures that we are offering our customers the very best. Wegmans partners closely with Trace Register for this purpose and we require all of our seafood suppliers to upload to TR. • High Standards: All of the seafood we source must meet Wegmans Food You Feel Good About standards (No artificial colors, additives, or preservatives). At Wegmans, we are strongly against the industry practice of using Sodium Tripolyphosphates, sulfites, Everfresh, CO, or any other chemical/ adulterant. All of the seafood we sell to our customers is 100 percent chemical-free.

SeafoodSource: Does certification of sustainability play a role in how Wegmans sources its international seafood? Has it become a bigger factor as consumer consciousness around sustainability has grown?

Fromm: Yes, certification plays an extremely important role when sourcing/ buying all of our seafood, both domestic and international. We will not purchase anything without our prerequisite certifications of food safety or sustainability. With that said, traditionally we have not marketed seafood certifications or logos in a consumer-facing way. The multitude of acronyms can be confusing to even the most entrenched seafood industry wonk and boiling it down into easy-to-understand terms is near impossible. Over the course of our 100-plus years as a company, we have developed a strong relationship with our customers that is rooted in trust, and humbly, our customers trust us to do the right thing. We do have sustainability information on our website

and Trace Register allows us to easily pull up information to answer our customers’ questions as they arise.

SeafoodSource: What are some of the defining characteristics of the modern American consumer? Do those characteristics impact seafood purchasing?

Fromm: Our customers are looking for great food, incredible service, and a one-ofa-kind shopping experience. Our primary business is to help make great meals easy so our customers can live healthier and better lives through food. The American consumer is time-starved, but they have a strong desire to consume healthy food for themselves and their family. At Wegmans we are constantly looking for unique ways to help our customers achieve this goal (i.e.

Ready to Cook Seafood entrees).

SeafoodSource: What are some of the best practices Wegmans employs when sourcing seafood from international business partners?

Fromm: We rely on our strong supplier partnerships built on mutual trust, values, and understanding. We are also intensely loyal to supplier partners that meet our high standards and expectations. In other words, we are not in the practice of jumping from one supplier to the next to save a buck. The term “partner” can sometimes be carelessly bandied about in the industry, but at Wegmans we take it very seriously. And finally it is imperative that as buyers, we visit our suppliers (international or domestic) with a regular cadence.

To see and experience a farm, processing plant, fishery, etc. first-hand is incredibly valuable to insuring we have made the right decision for our business and our customers.

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