District Fray Magazine // Winter 2022

THE CLUB AT STUDIO K

NAT GEO’S “EVEREST”

THE GROOM GUY

A LIFESTYLE + ENTERTAINMENT MAGAZINE • WINTER 2022

IN D.C. 10 CAN’T-MISS D.C. SPEAKEASIES THE ART OF INFUSIONS RIFFS ON THE CLASSICS BAR CART BASICS DRINKS DECODED THE MEZCAL MAVEN WASHINGTON' S ZERO-PROOF GUIDE

Alcohol Optional, Disco Ball Required Inside Disco Mary with Maria Bastasch

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FEATURES

07 BEYOND THE BARBER’S CHAIR

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DISCO MARY’S GOSPEL

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BUZZ-FREE // LOW-ABV

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EXPLORING EVEREST

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LOOKING FORWARD// STUDIO K

TABLE OF CONTENTS

ROBERT KINSLER Publisher robert@unitedfray.com

MONICA ALFORD Editor-in-Chief + Director of Media monica@unitedfray.com

ANDREW J. WILLIAMS III Managing Editor andrew@unitedfray.com

NICOLE SCHALLER Editorial Assistant nicole@unitedfray.com

JAMIE MCCRARY

Senior Editor jamie@unitedfray.com

JULIA GOLDBERG

Editorial Designer julia@unitedfray.com

CLAIRE SMALLEY

Production Designer claire@unitedfray.com

RADAR

9 Winter Calendar

EAT

15 Food for Thought

DRINK

26 10 Local Drinks 30 Kelvin Bacon 35 Speakeasies 38 Kelly White

CULTURE

70 Von Mychael

MARTIN ESPINOZA

76 Nat Geo // “Into the Depths”

Senior Director of Events martin@unitedfray.com

FUN

74 Cocktail Culture Crossword

PLAY

78 Beginner’s Guide to Ice Skating

SEEN

42 Deciphering A Menu

6 2 Barkeeps + 1 Barber

44 202 Proof

34 BTS Cover Shoot

46 Art of Infusions 49 Zero-Proof Guide Umarah Mughnee. Photo by Jennifer Chase.

TOM ROTH

Key Account Manager tomroth@unitedfray.com

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Caroline Cliona Boyle, Trent Johnson, Colleen Kennedy, James Liska, Nevin Martell, Joe Marshall, Travis Mitchell, Abi Newhouse, Lanna Nguyen, Bryan Rodrigues-Oliveira, Rina Rapuano, Laura Silverman, Amanda Weisbrod CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS + PHOTOGRAPHERS Jennifer Chase, Scott Suchman, Amanda Weisbrod COVER PHOTOGRAPHER Jennifer Chase ON THE COVER Maria Bastasch COVER LOCATION Columbia Room // Disco Mary DISTRICT FRAY |

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

COCKTAIL CULTURE IN D.C. On a Wednesday afternoon in mid-December, I found myself devouring a fancy bento box at Cranes with food and travel photographer Jennifer Chase. I’d followed her on IG for quite some time, mentally adding her to my wishlist of artists to work with one day. And suddenly, there we were, covering everything from whether or not to move our families to the burbs to the benefits of microdosing shrooms. And then, kismet. A dear friend of Chase’s, former Compass Rose Wine Director and Manager Maria Bastasch, recently opened alcohol-optional pop-up Disco Mary inside Columbia Room, her partner Derek Brown’s Blagden Alley stalwart space. Bastasch and I have drifted into the same orbit from time to time over the past six years through our connections to the mastermind behind Compass Rose and Maydan, Rose Previte, and our mutual friend Erin Derosa, the owner of hair salon and healing studio Sense. I also admittedly had been admiring Bastasch’s former green pixie cut for quite some time before embarking on my own similar journey. So here I was, chatting with Chase about Bastasch’s captivating commitment to a movement on the rise in the District: not just a toe dipped into sober-curious waters, but a warm embrace of what it means to imbibe without needing — or wanting — the buzz.

Fast-forward to January 6, when I’m part of a dream team of female powerhouses making our cover shoot vision a reality: Chase, Bastasch, her colleagues Umarah Mughnee and Chloé Dorsey, and my designer Julia Goldberg and editorial assistant Nicole Schaller. In fact, the only man present is Brown, a former cover star from our On Tap days and the most doting partner. His role? Bastasch’s cheerleader. Our entire Cocktail Culture issue seems to fall in a similar vein: championing the leaders of the drink industry in D.C. Not only do we applaud those keeping their doors open during such a harrowing time for folks in hospitality and pivoting in creative, lucrative and philanthropic ways, we support the new wave of drink professionals thinking outside the box and bringing low- and

no-ABV options to the forefront. In fact, they are normalizing being social without the impact of alcohol, and we’re here for it.

Beyond cocktails, we covered National Geographic Museum’s first two exhibits in two years and profiled one of their latest storytellers, Tara Roberts; profiled the Groom Guy, mezcal maven Kelly Phillips, comedian Von Mychael and other local luminaries; waxed poetic about the luxury of truffles; and much, much more. And oh yeah, please pick up a copy of this issue in Whole Foods and support local journalism because we are now carried in 20+ locations locally. Cheers, guys!

MONICA ALFORD EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Behind the scenes of our cover shoot at Disco Mary. FROM L TO R. Maria Bastasch, Umarah Mughnee + Chloé Dorsey. Photo by Jennifer Chase.

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SEEN

2 BARKEEPS + 1 BARBER. We crisscrossed the city — from the West End to Shaw to Union Market District — to spend time with two of the rising stars of D.C.’s cocktail culture and the man and mind behind the Groom Guy lifestyle concept. Check out our curated collage of behind-the-scenes shots. Photos by Andrew J. Williams III.

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BEYOND THE BARBER’S CHAIR How local brand Groom Guy is reimagining community + activism.

WORDS + PHOTO BY ANDREW J. WILLIAMS III

RADAR | DISTRICT DENIZENS In Black communities, barbershops are sacred.

As a Black youth, I recognized them as spaces where fathers and sons and grandmothers and granddaughters found community and where impressionable young people gained street smarts.

It’s in this spirit that Groom Guy, the modern 275-foot dual barbershop and lifestyle pop-up nestled inside of Yours Truly DC, one of the West End’s premier hotels, was born.

Groom Guy is a vehicle for honoring the past by recapturing something lost more than a century ago: Black barbers’ influence on society.

We sat down with the man and mind behind the concept, the stylish Brooklyn-born Darius “Sunny ‘’ Davie, to explore the brand’s beginnings and its greater purpose as a pillar of the community.

Manifesting Activism “In the early 1900s, Black barbers were a pinnacle part of the American economic system,” Davie explains. “They had a powerful position to play. I took that piece of history, put some sauce on it and here we are.”

Dig even deeper and you uncover the legacy of Color Line Barbers, where the seeds of barbershops as civic institutions first bloomed. These Black barbers were only permitted to cut the hair of white counterparts, earning money they then used to buy slaves’ freedom — and homes where they apprenticed other aspiring Black barbers.

In the ’50s and ’60s, at the height of the civil rights movement, barbershops were hubs for social activism and organizing where men and women came for a fresh cut, clean shave, hot towel and even to register to vote.

Groom Guy is the modern manifestation of this virtuous mission.

Creating New Levels of Access The foundation for creating the brand four years ago — first launched as an online platform offering self-care advice to men — disrupted a stagnant industry by prioritizing fellowship (even with competing barbers) and sparking poignant questions.

“How do we create chairs in unconventional spaces to let people raise questions?” Davie asks, a question he and his business partners investigated. “How do we give people a new level of access?”

The former hotel pantry turned barbershop is replete with a carefully curated (and rotating) collection of Black art (currently exhibiting works by Philadelphia artist and D.C. resident Maurice James), Black-owned grooming essentials, independent magazines and snake plants. It showcases Davie’s keen eye for design and hints at Groom Guy’s loftier desire to elevate the profile of Black self-care brands, while being a place where skin color is never the price of admission.

More agency than shop, Groom Guy also provides wedding services, design expertise for aspiring salons and barbershops, collaboration opportunities for gyms, editorial content for lifestyle magazines, one-on-one virtual sessions for those in need of grooming trips and aspires to produce a “Queer-Eye”esque barbershop docudrama.

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Davie’s thirst for connecting with the community also spurred the decision to partner with Yours Truly DC, a disruptive player in the local hospitality industry. During your visit, you can order a curated cocktail from the gorgeous, South American-inspired Mercy Me restaurant bar only feet away to enjoy later or buy vinyl across the hall at El Donut Shoppe.

Primming People, Not Just Hair For Davie, Groom Guy is a conduit for primming people, not just hair follicles. “[We ask], how are we helping reshape not just men but people? You sit in the chair to have a good conversation with someone and [stimulate] reflective questions that ultimately you carry with you.”

Men of all ages are invited to reflect on the world and leave feeling good, looking good and more equipped to understand their ever-evolving place in it — much like the Groom Guy brand.

Davie describes the burgeoning concept as “a service brand that is in the lifestyle industry of both products, design and now hospitality.”

Still, beyond driving Groom Guy’s more enterprising goals, Davie is an astute businessman who never loses sight of the weight of history.

“When I start to look back at the history of Black barbers in America, I realize this is me: I’m an embodiment of what those before me have instituted and put in,” he says. “It’s my job now to cultivate pieces and elements of what some of the famous, most unheard unnamed barbers have helped build. [I want to] refine it, give it some luxury, elegance, a system and shape. It’s going back to know how to go forward.”

Putting Soul Into It Davie is eager for the brand, his achievements and his growth within his craft to be judged equitably alongside others in the industry.

“I want to stand on my own like anybody else, not because of what you see but because of what I stand on in my work. I know who I am when I walk out of here. I’m reminded of that everywhere I go.”

Scissors, razors and the barber chair don’t discriminate.

The concept’s very existence is a commentary about how we cultivate welcoming spaces that transcend race, class and identity: Powerful businessmen, college students, aspiring barbers and even a cute puppy or two have all graced the chair at Groom Guy. As we close our conversation, I prod Davie for the songs that best embody his persona. He reels off a collection of house and soul icons: “Sure Thing,” by St. Germaine and anything by James Brown or Miles Davis. He also confesses he’s a lover and lover of ’80s pop and that in another life, he aspires to be Tubbs from “Miami Vice.”

“What you’ll learn about me personally is what I describe as hair: Hair is jazz and I’m just a musician. You gotta put your heart into it, you gotta put soul into it, you gotta feel it when you’re doing hair.”

Groom Guy (Inside Yours Truly DC): 1143 New Hampshire Ave. NW, DC; 202-427-2887; groomguy.com // @groomguy Darius “Sunny‘’ Davie.

CALENDAR | RADAR

Something that probably boils the blood of everyone in D.C. is how diversity and nonhomogeneity is often overlooked. At first glance, outsiders see the nation’s capital. But once you look past the government buildings and “West Wing” nostalgia, you will see a varied community of Black professionals, EDM tastemakers and LGBTQ+ foodies looking for something new. There isn’t one District because D.C. can mean different things to different people. For this issue’s Print Radar, we want you to see the many faces of D.C. and deepen your understanding of your home. Eat something you’ve never eaten before. Listen to new music. See and explore the real D.C. COMPILED BY CAROLINE CLIONA BOYLE + BRYAN RODRIGUES-OLIVEIRA

NOTE: All descriptions courtesy of event hosts and edited for clarity.

ONGOING ARENA STAGE PRESENTS “CHANGE AGENT”

What if I told you it was the 1960s and right out your front door people are panicking about civil rights, a freezing cold war and missiles stationed in Havana? Crazy, right? Now what if I told you although no one knows you exist, you’re arguably one of the biggest reasons everyone is panicking? That’s even crazier, but it’s completely true. Debuting at Arena Stage Theatre, “Change Agent” is a Craig Lucas original piece that touches upon history’s most influential but unknown playmakers. People who were at the scene of every debacle, but managed to fly under the radar.

It’s somewhat horrifying to think that there are powerful people hiding in the margins of history, but nonetheless it makes for a hell of a show. Now through March 6. $92. Arlene and Robert Kogod Cradle at Arena Stage: 1101 Sixth St. SW, DC; arenastage.org // @arenastage Lightmare. Photo by Kimchi Photography.

THE CLARICE PRESENTS “BLACKLIGHT SUMMIT”

After postponing their 2021 rendition due to health concerns, Dance Place is proud and eager to announce their second presentation of “BlackLight Summit,” an introspective series of movement workshops that reflect on the times and conditions around us. Within this conference, the dancers ask fundamental questions. “What/who are we becoming?”

“How do we return to one another?” and “Does progress equal healing?” It’s hard to sum up the past two years, but it’s very comforting to know “BlackLight Summit” is willing to start the conversation. Join the discussions at The Clarice Performing Arts Center on UMD’s College Park campus. 9:30 a.m. - 9:30 p.m. Free with registration. The Clarice: 8270 Alumni Dr. College Park, MD; theclarice.umd.edu // @TheClariceUMD

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RADAR | CALENDAR COMEDY DOWN AT DUPONT UNDERGROUND

Comedy Down at Dupont Underground is back and bigger than ever. This monthly series attracts comedians from all over the world and introduces large audiences to some of the best up and coming comedians from the DMV area and abroad. 7:30-10:30 p.m. Free-$44. Dupont Underground: 19 Dupont Cir. NW, DC; dupontunderground.org // @dupontunderground

“DAPHNE’S DIVE” BY QUIARA ALEGRIA HUDES

Colorful characters create a makeshift ménage at the neighborhood watering hole in a vivid and vibrant play by the Pulitzer Prize-winning playwright of “Water by the Spoonful” and “In the Heights.” Both poignant and joyful, this tribute to found family serves hospitality with a twist of heart in every pour. $40. Signature Theatre: 4200 Campbell Ave. Arlington, VA; sigtheatre.org // @sigtheatre

DEL RAY ARTISANS PRESENTS DADA 2.0

The Dadaist art movement started in a haze of Post-WWI trauma, influenza scares and a looming financial crisis. Sadly, we find ourselves in a similar spot…but think of the amazing Dadaist art we’ve created too. Del Ray Artisans is proud to present “Dada 2.0:” a gallery exhibit that picks up the torch of early 20th century Dada and gives it a post-Trump, post-Covid and post-sanity spin. While there may be times where things seem bleak and dismal, visiting this exhibit shows the public there were a special few in their ranks that took their trauma and turned it into conscious beauty. See how others survived the past two years at the exhibit’s debut on February 4. 12 p.m.

Free. Del Ray Artisans: 2704 Mount Vernon Ave. Alexandria, VA; delrayartisans.org // @DelRayArtisans

MAKING CHAMPAGNE BLUSH CAKES

In this mini comprehensive symposium, you will learn how to make your very own blush cake which you get to take home with you. Add a vanilla chiffon cake, macarons, a pink Champagne vanilla custard filling and more to your confectionary repertoire. Sundays from 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. $120.

The Boardroom VA: 925 N Garfield St. Arlington, VA; theboardroomva.com // @boardroomva

“PAPER LIGHT EXHIBITION” AT KATZEN ARTS CENTER Darkroom photography is no easy task but when you find the rhythm of that red-tinted room, you can get away with doing anything you imagine. “Paper Light Exhibition” by Corcoran professor Claudia Smigrod is a display that showcases the endless possibilities of darkroom development. Filled with photo-burning exploration and intense negative contrasts, this American University-hosted event serves as a lesson to film photographers everywhere: Don’t ditch the darkroom. The longer you put up with the demands, the greater your photos will come out. Amazing things can happen in the dark. Free.

The Katzen Arts Center: 4400 Massachusetts Ave. NW, DC; american.edu // @AUMuseum_Katzen

PALISADES LOUNGE PRESENTS FETE DECALE

Parlez vous français? Do you speak french? Even if you don’t, feel free to check out “Fete Decale,” a Francophone music night held every week at Palisades Lounge. Get off your sofa and groove to the French dance hits sweeping the clubs of the Caribbean, Europe and Africa. See for yourself how every

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Francophone diaspora has created a musical revolution worthy of some dance floor love. The only dress code is fashionable so dress to impress. Dior or Chanel should do the trick.

4-10 p.m. $20. Palisades Lounge: 8211 Georgia Ave. Silver Spring, MD; palisades-lounge.com // @palisadesloungess

SPEED DATING: BLAZE EDITION

Rolling up and hot-boxing can be fun, but nothing beats finding a partner that gets your chill vibe. For all the weed-positive singles of the DMV, The Pyramid dispensary is hosting Speed Dating: Blaze Edition, a night where you can cut out the awkward convo and drinks and hang with a person who likes to relax the same way you do. Compatibility is great for relationships. And knowing whether or not your partner smokes up is a part of that compatibility. Find love, get lit and have fun at The Pyramid’s night for bud-friendly buds.

6:30 p.m. $30-$55. The Pyramid: 1329 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC; itsthepyramid.com // @itsthepyramid

TRANSMASCULINE & NONBINARY SOCIAL HOUR

Join the DC Area Transmasculine Society (DCATS) for a social hour at Red Bear Brewing Company. Red Bear is a queer-owned brewery that serves food, drinks and has board games. Friends and partners are welcome when accompanied by someone who is transmasculine. Third Tuesday monthly. 6-9 p.m. Free.

Red Bear Brewing: 209 M St. NE, DC; redbear.beer // @redbearbrewing

TRANSIENT: IMPERMANENT PAINTINGS

Experience an immersive journey into artistic process, inspired by music and traditional painting techniques. This groundbreaking exhibition, originally composed as a live performance, presents a series of audiovisual paintings created by the artist in concert with generative algorithms. The exhibition employs technology as a lens to explore music for the 21st-century audience and rethink the traditional artistic techniques in the context of human-machine relationship.

Various times. $17-$30. ARTECHOUSE DC: 1238 Maryland Ave. SW, DC; artechouse.com // @artechouse

VERY SAD LAB: THE INCUBATOR EXHIBITION AT TRANSFORMER

Join Very Sad Lab’s plant “Incubator” at Transformer for a living, growing site-specific installation, resource lab and series of pre-plant-parent workshops for what to expect when you’re expecting. Proceeding from an intersection of art, science, ecology and horticulture. Very Sad Lab seeks to create a greener D.C. by connecting people to nature through plants.

February 5-March 19. Free. Transformer: 1404 P St. NW, DC; transformerdc.org // @transformerdc

“WHITE NOISE” BY SUZAN-LORI PARKS

Leo, Dawn, Ralph and Misha are four longtime friends and sometimes lovers who are coming into their own in the city, until a violent police encounter prompts Leo to suggest an audacious experiment that unmasks long-simmering secrets among the group. Pulitzer Prize-winning playwright SuzanLori Parks brings her bold sense of humor and history to a story about four thirtysomethings in a not-at-all post-racial world.

8 p.m. $65. Studio Theatre: 1501 14th St. NW, DC; studiotheatre.org // @studiotheatre

WINTERFEST AT THE GAYLORD NATIONAL RESORT

Winterfest is a family-friendly spectacle that consists of Jack Frost scavenger hunts, nightly light shows and endless opportunities to enjoy a pleasant spa day. It’s a great chance to bond with your family, give the kids an eventful day and end winter in style at the DMV’s most luxurious resort. $9.99.

The Gaylord National Resort: 201 Waterfront St. National Harbor, MD; gaylordnational.com // @gaylordnational

2.1 COUPLE TANGO AT THE URUGUAYAN EMBASSY

¡Bo, gauchito! Another night at home isn’t going to impress your partner. Instead of Netflix and popcorn, make your way over to the Uruguayan Embassy and learn how to tango with renowned dancer Luis Angel. Bond and connect with your true love while taking in the best of Rioplatense culture. Get a taste for the dance floor with the most romantic dance to bless South America and the world. Sure, we all love a night in but for one night, show your partner you’re versed in multiple love languages. Have fun. Bust some moves. It’ll be re barbaro. 6 p.m. $75. Uruguayan Embassy: 1913 I St. NE, DC; embassyofuruguay.us // @UruguayinUSA

2.3

up bangers, no one shined brighter (or better yet dimmer) than Kacey Musgraves. Well known in country circles, Musgraves has transcended genre borders with her latest album “Star-Crossed.”

Regarded as a mature look at heartbreak, Kacey makes it clear the ruined fairy tale trope still hurts in adulthood and doesn’t get easier with Internet culture there to rehash your pain. Catch Kacey at the Capital One Arena with a box of tissues and waterworks ready for showtime. 8 p.m. $61. Capital One Arena: 900 10th St. NW, DC; capitalonearena.com // @CapitalOneArena

2.4 AFROPOLITANDC: THE BLACK HERITAGE EXPERIENCE

D.C. would be nothing without the contributions of its Black community. To show thanks and keep D.C.’s Black community thriving, hot spot nightclub Abigail is hosting AfropolitanDC, a Black heritage mixer for young professionals that keep the District on the up and up. Advertised as an opportunity for black trendsetters to stay connected, it is also a chance for the Black community to catch a break from the week and reconnect with their culture. A pro-Black D.C. is the only D.C. that should exist. And at AfropolitanDC, pro-Black is the only way things are done. 6 p.m. Free-$50. Abigail: 1730 M St. NW, DC; abigaildc.com // @abigailnightclub

NMWA’S THE TEA WITH TING LIN

KACEY MUSGRAVES AT CAPITAL ONE ARENA

2021 was the year of the heartbreak album. Whether it was teen angst from Rodrigo or looking back at past gems with Swift, we all had a soundtrack for crying alone. But when it comes to break-

The National Museum of Women in The Arts strives at creating a space that gives thanks to the female artists this world has seen. But along with giving thanks to the past, NMWA also looks to the future and the future can’t get enough of Ting Lin. A musician and fashion-versed creative, Ting Lin is set to perform

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RADAR | CALENDAR her multilingual, multi-genre music on The Tea, a NMWA-hosted live stream that showcases the best and brightest of female artists. Don’t miss out on hearing an amazing contemporary artist define her art and inspire women everywhere. 12 p.m. Free.

Virtual. National Museum of Women in The Arts: 1250 New York Ave. NW, DC; nmwa.org // @womeninthearts

ones with a homemade craft and support a local business. 5 p.m. $30. Relume Home Goods: 1121 King St. Alexandria, VA; relumeco.com // @relume.co

2.5

(PRE) VALENTINE’S DAY PAINT N’ SIP

DISTRICT DISCO PRESENTED BY DISTRICT SNACKS

District Snacks is one of the most adventurous businesses in the D.C. area making us proud and deepening our palates.

Coming out with a line of delicious and flavor-packed almond butters, District Snacks plans to celebrate their success with a District Disco Night at Zebbie’s Garden. The event will be hosted by DJ Charlie B visiting from L.A. who shares musical entertainment responsibilities with NYC drag icon Jasmine Rice LaBeija and RuPaul Drag Race veterans Kennedy Davenport and Jan Sport. It is an evening of disco house beats, contemporary pop vocals and great cocktails. Studio 54 lewks are encouraged and honestly demanded. 3 p.m. $20-$30.

Zebbie’s Garden: 1223 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC; districtsnacks. com; @district.snacks // mayflowerclubdc.com; @mayflowerclubdc

2.8 HUSBANDS AT DC9

Who knew the most vibrant and tropical band out on the scene would be from landlocked Oklahoma City? Mellowed-out punk outfit Husbands is the hottest lo-fi duo to make its way to DC9.

Having released their latest LP in the midst of 2020, these dazed and confused beach bums are ready to showcase their brand of Beach Boys-injected garage rock to a live audience. From personifying punk rock to singing about break time, Husbands is fully capable of making this a gig of endless possibilities and creating many lasting impressions. 7:30 p.m. $12. DC9: 1940 9th St. NW, DC; dc9.club // @dc9club

IAN SWEET AT SONGBYRD

You may not know who Jillian Medford is but their alter ego IAN SWEET is a radically amazing addition to the national indie rock scene and the Polyvinyl Records family. Arguably an artist who dwells deep into personal issues and conveys their struggles in a fierce yet poetic manner, IAN’s future appearance at Songbyrd Music House is set to turn heads and shock the audience. What else is to be expected from a bold and talented artist that has the largest indie label in the country begging for more? 7.p.m. $15-$17. Songbyrd Music House: 540 Penn St. NE, DC; songbyrddc.com // @songbyrddc

2.10 SOY CANDLE MAKING WITH LILLY OF RELUME

If you’re looking for a chance to be sustainable and decorate your home, Relume Home Goods founder Lilly Crown Wilder is teaching a class on making your own soy candles. This is your chance to create your own signature scent, impress your loved 12 | WINTER 2022

2.11 Get an early start on your Valentine’s Day celebration by attending the (Pre) Valentine’s Paint N’ Sip hosted by Joe’s Palette. Whether you have a partner to celebrate with or are hitting the town with your friends, making a stop at this boozy paint session is a great way to start the weekend and have some fun. Enjoy a free cocktail upon arrival. 6:30 p.m. $40. 1220 H St. NE, DC; joespalette.com // @joespalette

2.11 + 2.12 50 YEARS OF BROADWAY AT THE KENNEDY CENTER

Celebrate the past 50 years of Broadway history with a star-studded series of performances at The Kennedy Center. Hosted by Tony Award winner James Monroe Igleheart, this night is a tribute to the greatest shows that defined the American stage and the musical world. With appearances from Christopher Jackson of Hamilton and Andrew Rannells of the Falsettos revival, the Kennedy Center hopes to unite music lovers of all backgrounds and pay respect to the dearly departed Stephen Sondheim. 7:30 p.m. $59. The Kennedy Center: 2700 F St. NW, DC; kennedy-center.org // @kencen

2.12 25 YEARS OF COYABA DANCE CELEBRATION AT DANCE PLACE

Get ready for the jubilant anniversary of D.C.’s prized Coyaba Dance Theater. Founded by their charismatic Art Director Mama Sylvia Soumah in 1997, Coyaba’s mission is to showcase the majesty of West African dance and the diverse groups that perform it. Join Dance Place and Coyaba Dance Theater for an invigorating premiere full of music, drumming, theater and the dazzling energy of West African dance to celebrate 25 blissful years. 8 p.m. Free. Dance Place: 3225 8th St. NE, DC; danceplace.org // @danceplace

DMV LIBRAS’ COMEDY AND R&B VALENTINE’S NIGHT

Who knew jokes and melody were a match made in heaven?

In honor of Valentine’s Day, DMV Libras is hosting their renowned Comedy and R+B night with a lovey dovey twist.

Hosted by Asia of Majic 102.3 and a live band led by Kenny Sway, this night is sure to have you bopping to the music and laughing at the punchlines. 7 p.m. $25. The Garden Alexandria: 5380 Eisenhower Ave. Alexandria, VA; thegarden.net // @thegardendelray

VALENTINES BAR CRAWL

Lovers, friends and everyone else in between, Cupid has his aim on U Street in 2022. It’s the time of the year when we celebrate love and what better way to do it than with great drinks, music, and people. It doesn’t matter if you’re on or off the market.

It’s all love on this bar crawl for everyone. We will have DJs spinning different genres of music from classic hip-hop, soca, reggaeton, R+B, Afrobeat, trap and top 40 hits at over nine amazing bars along the U Street Corridor. 2-10 p.m. $10. Various stops along U Street NW, DC; merevents.com // @merevents

2.13

two and oysters the Michele’s way. Bottles of Champagne are available as supplements. Michele’s: 1201 K St. NW, DC; michelesdc.com // @micheles.dc

2.18 SPUD CANNON AND LIGHTMARE AT COMET PING PONG

TASTE OF INDIA COOKING CLASS WITH CHEF MANJIRI

Vassar-bred and ready to cause trouble, Spud Cannon is the quintessential college band that deserves to make it big. Having repeatedly snuck onto their campus’ squash courts to record their Wall Of Sound-inspired brand of indie, this band knows no bounds and is willing to do all they can to make quality art.

And although this band has no roots in the District, they will be graciously joined by soul-punk locals Lightmare to show them the ropes. This is a chance to see two of the most dynamic bands on the scene. Get a taste for the sounds of Poughkeepsie while paying respect to D.C.’s very own. 10 p.m. $13.

Comet Ping Pong: 5037 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC; cometpingpong.com // @cometpingpong

2.13 + 2.14

Wherever you were in the 2000s, we can all agree the pop music of the era was a godsend and still reigns supreme in our hearts.

We had Gaga, Britney and the rise of solo career Beyonce all in the palm of our hands and nothing has been the same ever since. That being said, it’s no surprise the most anticipated dance night to hit DC9 is Poker Face, a 2000s pop revival night hosted by DJs Phoenix and Dionysus. Come through and relive one of the most monumental times in pop culture. We might have Biden instead of Bush and Tik Tok instead of Myspace, but the flame of the 2000s is still burning ferociously. 11 p.m.

Free-$5. DC9: 1940 9th St. NW, DC; dc9.club // @dc9club

The Indian subcontinent is home to some of the greatest meals in the world. But for those of us that can’t go on a food tour of South Asia, local chef Manjiri will help you find the perfect substitution. Hosted and taught by Chef Manjiri herself, “A Taste of India” is a cooking class designed to revolutionize your approach toward Indian cuisine. Widen your culinary palette and cooking skills by making your way over to Herndon and exploring one of the most flavorful cuisines on the planet.

No cooking experience is required and you’ll learn to make a spectacular three-course meal. 2 p.m. $79. 2452 Dakota Lakes Dr. Herndon, VA; cozymeal.com

ACADEMY OF DRINK THE DISTRICT: VALENTINE’S DAY CHAMPAGNE AND CHOCOLATE

Treat your special someone to a unique and romantic experience with this Drink the District Valentine’s day special.

Learn how Champagne is made from the hand of experts, as well as what makes it so unique, valuable and drinkable!

You will get to sample several fine champagnes along with a chocolate tasting as a pairing. 6:30 p.m. $99.99. Hook Hall: 3400 Georgia Ave. NW, DC; hookhall.com // @hookhall_dc

2.14 DC IMPROV VALENTINE’S DAY SHOWCASE

Whether you’re coupled up or proudly single, spend Valentine’s Day with us. Everyone loves to laugh — and we’ve got a stacked lineup of DMV comics that you’ll definitely be sweet on. $25-$35. 7:30-9:45 p.m. DC Improv: 1140 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC; dcimprov.com // @dcimprov

THE MARÍAS PRESENT: CINEMA

The Marías are the psychedelic-soul lovechild of Puerto Rican-bred, Atlanta-raised María Zardoya and Los Angeles native, Josh Conway. A smooth rendezvous of jazz percussion, hypnotic guitar riffs, smoke-velvet vocals and nostalgic horn solos, there’s something undeniably sensual in their dreamlike fusion of jazz, psychedelia, funk and lounge. 7 p.m. $25.

9:30 Club: 815 V St. NW, DC; 930.com // @930club

VALENTINE’S DAY THREE COURSE TASTING MENU AT MICHELE’S

Michele’s is offering an intimate date night experience for Valentine’s Day. Your ticket includes a three-course menu curated by Michelin Star Chef Matt Baker and specially designed to celebrate Valentine’s Day. Special Dishes for the night include a lobster dinner for two, a duck dinner for

POKER FACE: A 2000S DANCE NIGHT

2.23 NÜ ANDROIDS PRESENTS ELA MINUS AT FLASH DC

While Covid may have shut down every D.C. dancefloor for a significant amount of time, not even the worst of the pandemic could keep tech-pop fans from having mini-raves in their bedrooms. And out of the artists to line the playlists of these at-home dancers, Ela Minus was a popular constant.

Electronic tastemakers Nü Androids are proud to host this Colombian-born trendsetter’s one night appearance at D.C.’s very own Flash. Celebrate the turn of times with a live act by an artist who helped us get through some of the toughest times imaginable. Rave. Take Pictures. Stand in the corner if you want. Just get out and support the brightest star of pandemic dance jams. 10 p.m. $15-$18. Flash: 645 Florida Ave. NW, DC; flashdc.com // @flashclubdc

2.24 DAYBREAKER DC WÜNDER TOUR AT THE SMITHSONIAN AMERICAN ART MUSEUM

Wünder? Wonder? Vuonder? However you pronounce it, Daybreaker DC’s Wünder tour is coming to the American Art Museum and starting the day off at 6 a.m. with an energetic dance party. Get a headstart on your morning by doing yoga DISTRICT FRAY | 13

RADAR | CALENDAR alongside your fellow Districters and jamming to the best live music that the DMV has to offer. This event is WOC-run, anti-racist and meant to liven up your morning in the healthiest way possible. This event is strictly alcohol-free and promotes a clean, communal state of mind. Start the day off right and indulge in a sense of Wünder. 6 a.m. $20+. Smithsonian Museum of American Art Kogod Room: G St. NW & 8th St. NW, DC; daybreaker.com // @dybrkr

SHAOLIN JAZZ AND WHINO PRESENTS “CAN I KICK IT?” FEATURING GOLDENEYE

Are you a fan of classic hip hop beats and James Bond movies?

Would you like both things in the same space? DJ 2-Tone is the mastermind behind SHAOLIN JAZZ, a night where he live-scores some of the most iconic action movies with record scratches and bombastic beats straight out of the Golden Age. This time, 2-Tone is continuing his love affair with the James Bond films and will be providing much-needed ambience to Goldeneye, the big screen debut of Pierce Brosnan’s Bond.

Watch the start of a cinematic era while you listen to the best instrumentals to come out of the DMV. WHINO in Ballston will be hosting and menus will be available until 2 a.m. $30.

WHINO: 4238 Wilson Blvd. Arlington, VA; whinova.com // @whinoinc

2.27

well be in the room with you. The only difference for people in the District is you can actually be in a room with Food Network icon Alton Brown. At D.C.’s National Theatre, watch as Alton Brown leads a live cooking show filled with laughs and tasty dishes. See firsthand why Alton is considered the most charismatic man on prime-time culinary TV. Times vary. $60+. The National Theatre: 1321 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, DC; thenationaldc.com // @broadwaynatdc

2.28 KYLE DION AT SONGBYRD

He doesn’t have an attitude and he’s not talking smack: He’s just a bit sassy. Kyle Dion is one of the most iconic voices to make waves in modern R+B and rap. Having worked with the likes of Kehlani and PARTYNEXTDOOR, Dion is ready to set himself apart musically with his sophomore LP “SASSY:” An album that switches up his last album’s nostalgia for ’90s rhythm and blues with boisterous and confident bravado.

Featuring guest appearances from DUCKWRTH and Ja Rule, “SASSY” is set to turn heads and make an impression when played live at Songbyrd on the 28. Don’t call him a loudmouth, but definitely hear him make some noise in the District this February’s end. 7 p.m. $23. Songbyrd Music House: 540 Penn St. NE, DC; songbyrddc.com // @songbyrddc

ALTON BROWN LIVE AT THE NATIONAL THEATRE

We’ve all been here before: Bored at home and watching Food Network for the millionth time this week. You’ve become so accustomed to seeing famous chef Alton Brown that he might as

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EAT

Local Luxury

Chef Amy Brandwein of Centrolina drops a bomb about American truffles.

WORDS BY RINA RAPUANO | PHOTOS BY SCOTT SUCHMAN

EAT | FOOD FOR THOUGHT Here’s what most fine-dining denizens know about truffles: One, they are delicious. Two, they are expensive. Three, they come from Italy or France.

That last detail, though? It’s simply not true.

It turns out there is an American truffle that’s been right under our noses all along, growing in the high altitudes of the Appalachian Mountains and now being shaved atop rich, buttery dishes at Centrolina, chef-owner Amy Brandwein’s wellregarded Italian dining room in downtown D.C. She began using the truffles for the first time this October when local forager Jeffery Long brought them to her. She’s so smitten with them she’s ready to drop this bomb on the truffle world.

“I’m going to go out on a limb and say I think they’re better than the white truffle and the black truffle,” she says. “And I’m saying that because I mean it.”

Brandwein describes them as the perfect cross between the delicate white truffle and the more robust black truffle.

“It’s just a crazy, crazy, crazy intoxicating smell,” she says. “They start off white and as they age they get darker, so they end up sort of like a black truffle — but the outside is like velvet brown. When you shave it, it tastes kind of like chocolate. That’s the only way I can describe it.”

Long confirms Brandwein is currently his only customer for what he calls the “Lagotto truffle,” named for the Italian dog breed Lagotto Romagnolo known for hunting the precious fungi. Long, who is very plugged into the truffle-hunting scene after 11 years of foraging the great Eastern white truffle (a.k.a. the Lagotto truffle), the yellow-furrowed truffle and the Appalachian truffle, says his Lagotto pup Este is one of maybe two truffle-hunting dogs on the East Coast.

Pedigree might matter with truffle-hunting canines who are able to root out the mature truffles that pack more flavor, but Brandwein says pedigree is less of a factor for diners who simply want the freshest, best-tasting truffle experience. But the less expensive American truffles, which have longer shelf lives and arrive a day or two after coming out of the ground, can be a tough sell.

“It doesn’t have the name recognition that a white or black truffle from France or Italy has,” she says, noting that those celebrated truffles spend about a week in transit to get to the States, so they only last about five days once she receives them. “[Many diners are] looking for the super high-end, luxury experience. And if it doesn’t have the price tag or the name recognition, they don’t necessarily have full confidence in what it is. That’s kind of a hurdle.”

Digging into Brandwein’s earliest memories of truffles gets her to thinking about a story that still makes her squirm — but at least she can laugh about it now.

16 | WINTER 2022

She remembers first being introduced to the prized tubers during her time at the now-closed Galileo, Chef Roberto Donna’s famous Italian restaurant where Brandwein worked an externship for culinary school and ended up as executive chef in the mid-2000s.

“We did so many dishes with white truffle — a white truffle tasting menu, and all these things — and that’s where I really learned how to cook with a truffle,” she says.

One night, George Clooney and Paul Giamatti were in the dining room of Galileo and Donna decided Brandwein, a shy chef who avoids the spotlight and prefers to hide in her kitchen, needed to shave truffles onto George Clooney’s dinner.

“They were just all ribbing me because I was the only female chef in the kitchen and it’s George Clooney,” she says, chuckling at the memory. “It’s a whole thing, you know? The whole thing was really funny.”

Nervous, hands shaking and awkwardly leaning over him sitting at the round table, Brandwein finished shaving the truffles and was ready to make her exit when Paul Giamatti politely asked for more. Instead of making it rain with luxurious truffles, Brandwein had accidentally shorted one of the most famous people on the planet.

“I was completely mortified,” she says, adding she’s never told anyone the story before. “It was an epic fail. I’m shy by nature — especially back then — so I was very uncomfortable with the whole thing.”

Behind The Photo Brandwein likes to experiment with what’s on hand, which sometimes results in a lightning bolt kind of moment. That’s exactly what happened when she discovered her current favorite way to use a truffle — including the American Lagotto.

“Sometimes I have extra truffles and I’m like, ‘What am I going to do with these?’ I try to be practical — it’s not always meant to create some elaborate dish.”

She continues, “I did gnocchi with braised kale, truffle butter and black truffles, and that was a showstopper. It even surprised me.

I was floored because who would

think kale and a black truffle would make this marriage in heaven?”

She wasn’t the only one surprised by the tasty result, which deftly complements kale’s green earthiness with the natural umami found in truffles, aged cheeses and potatoes. Indeed, it’s the kind of dish you might find yourself still pondering — and wishing for another bowl to appear a week later.

“My staff was surprised, the customers were surprised,” she recalls. “You see it on a menu and you’re like, ‘Okay, kale, okay.’ But then when you taste it, you’re taken for a loop.”

Curious to experience some truffle luxury for yourself? Stop by Centrolina to visit Chef Brandwein and taste the intoxicating American truffle.

Centrolina: 974 10th St. NW, DC; 202-898-2426; centrolinadc.com // @centrolinadc

FIRST PAGE. Centrolina’s gnocchi with kale + black truffle dish. THIRD PAGE. Centrolina truffles.

DISTRICT FRAY | 17

Gnocchi with Kale + Black Truffle

EAT | FOOD FOR THOUGHT

For the gnocchi 2 potatoes, baked and riced (warm is best) 1/4 C 00 pasta flour (a type of finely ground Italian flour)

1-2 eggs Sprinkle Parmigiano Reggiano Dusting semolina flour Salt

Working quickly and carefully, knead the dough, only incorporating as much flour as you need along the way until the dough loses stickiness and becomes more solid.

Slice the dough into four parts. Roll out one part into a long rope about one inch wide, cutting in half and working with one half at a time if the rope is becoming too long.

Slice the rope into 1/2-inch squares and set aside on a lightly floured surface. Repeat with the remaining dough.

If desired, place a fork on your work surface and slide each gnocchi square from the base of the fork prongs to the top so they make a decorative shape. Place on a sheet tray generously sprinkled with semolina and pasta flour. Cover with kitchen towel.

For the kale 3 T extra virgin olive oil 3 anchovies 2 garlic cloves, sliced very thin

1.5 pounds lacinato or Tuscan kale, stems and inner ribs discarded, leaves coarsely chopped

In a heavy bottom pot, heat the olive oil. Add the garlic and anchovies and cook over low-medium heat, stirring just until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Add the kale in large handfuls, letting it wilt slightly before adding more. Add 1/4 C water or more to wilt a bit more. Season with salt and pepper, cover and cook over low heat until the kale is wilted about 5-10 minutes. Remove the lid and cook until the liquid has evaporated, about three minutes longer. Set aside.

To finish your gnocchi 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 T extra virgin olive oil 4 T truffle butter 4 T butter 2 T Parmigiano Reggiano (or more to taste) 1 black truffle

18 | WINTER 2022

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the gnocchi in batches, stirring gently once or twice to ensure they are not sticking. Meanwhile, warm sauté pan with olive oil and sliced garlic. When garlic is cooked but not colored, add kale, truffle butter, butter and Parmigiano Reggiano. Add a ladle or two of pasta water and simmer. When pasta floats to surface, cook another 15-30 seconds more, then remove and add to your pan. Toss gnocchi well.

Plate and shave black truffles on top. In a pan over medium heat, melt butter and add the sage. Add the gnocchi and toss until lightly golden.

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DECODING

D.C.'S COCKTAIL CULTURE

This is our ode to the maestros, movers and (cocktail) shakers of the District’s flourishing drink scene. This month, we are pouring our hearts into celebrating D.C.’s virtuosic cocktail culture. Take a crash course on home bar basics, read about our visit with boozefree disco darling Maria Bastasch, enjoy tips for decoding a drink menu, embark on a deep dive into the art of infusions, flip through a sober-curious 101 guide and much more. Thank you to the patrons, tasters, do-it-yourselfers and ramblers who show up to lift up the scene. This drink’s on us.

Nothing But A Good Time Booze-free disco darling Maria Bastasch // page 22

10 Local Cocktails Classics + riffs // page 26

The Mixologist Mixer Kelvin Bacon hones his craft // page 30

Of All The D.C. Juice Joints...

Local boozy backrooms // page 35

Kelly Phillips Kicking back with D.C.'s mezcal maven // page 38

5 Tips For Deciphering A Menu Ordering a drink like an adult // page 42

All That Bar Cart Base A blueprint for DIY barkeeps // page 44

Art Of Infusions Concocting complex spirits // page 46

20 | WINTER 2022

DR

I

N K

FROM L TO R. Maria Bastasch. Umarah Mughnee. Photo by Jennifer Chase.

NO TH IBUT NGA GO OD

TIME The Gospel of Alcohol-Optional Disco Mary

WORDS BY NEVIN MARTELL | PHOTOS BY JENNIFER CHASE

There’s no place quite like Disco Mary. Swathed in millennial pink with mirrored surfaces at every angle, “Viva La Mujer” prints stand alongside whimsical mushroom sculptures and prayer candles. Presiding over the patio space is its shimmering namesake, a mirror-bedazzled Virgin Mary offering a spiritualized, selfie-ready moment for guests. Since opening at the end of last October, the pop-up inside the Columbia Room has been exuding groovy futurism and come-as-you-are vibes with a menu of alcohol-optional, herbalism-inspired cocktails and plant-based Central and South American food.

The unconventional no-buzz-required boîte is the creation of Maria Bastasch, a one-time heavy drinking wine director. Her path to opening Disco Mary is predictably unpredictable. The West Coaster moved to D.C. eight years ago in the aftermath of a divorce. The city’s hospitality industry made a life-changing first impression.

“I was really impressed by the sense of community,” she says.

“I hadn’t experienced that in California. Everyone here, it was their career. I was impressed by their dedication and level of education both in and outside their field.”

She joined the staff at Compass Rose a month after it opened.

Looking for a distraction from her personal life, she threw herself into the work. Ultimately, she also became the wine director and manager at its sister spot Maydan. Learning about Georgian wines, working to import new varietals to the States and educating customers was revelatory.

“I saw it as a foil for a greater narrative about hegemony,” she says. “It’s a way for us to understand geopolitics and how we have superiority complexes within cultures.”

PLANT-BASED INSPIRATION Along with the job came a lot of drinking.

“It was great at the time,” she says. “But there was a part of it — for me and a lot of people around me — that’s selfmedication because you’re working so much.”

When she was diagnosed with lupus, she realized seismic changes were necessary in her life and lifestyle. She cut her drinking down drastically. Now alcohol is a rarity, though she occasionally indulges in champagne and agave-based spirits.

Over that time, an idea began coalescing for a bar that didn’t just serve booze. Instead, it would showcase a wide array of herbalist ingredients.

“My true love is plant medicine and has been since I was a child,” says Bastasch, who grew up in an herbalist household and considered becoming an herbalist doctor.

“I’ve always been trying to find my way back to that and I saw there was an opportunity to converge my love of herbalism with expanding our definition of what it means to relax, engage with others [and] socialize.”

She told her evolving idea to anyone who would listen, but most failed to see the value of her vision. Her boyfriend Derek Brown was the hardest sell of all. But then he underwent his own transformative relationship with alcohol while confronting his bipolar depression.

Now the award-winning cocktail connoisseur rarely drinks, recently published the book “Mindful Mixology: A Comprehensive Guide to No- and Low-Alcohol Cocktails with 60 Recipes” and is a full-blown supporter of the bar.

“Disco Mary is the future,” he says. “It’s planting a flag. It is exactly where we have to go with bars. The experience is greater than just alcohol.”

24 | WINTER 2022

DRINK

AN EVOLVING VISION But when Bastasch left Maydan in the summer of 2020, Disco Mary was a still-changing idea. Not working 70 hours a week gave her the time, headspace and clarity of thought to fully articulate her vision. Her idea evolved further, taking on a stronger structure.

Ultimately, her elevator pitch clarified: “People don’t want alcohol-free drinks. People want drinks that make them feel good. I want to offer those drinks with a no-alcohol option.”

After running the numbers and getting the buy-in from Brown to use the Columbia Room as the testing ground, a longterm pop-up was within reach. She doesn’t believe it would have happened if it weren’t for the pandemic.

“There was so much fluctuation that came in the last two years for small businesses,” she says. “With that fluctuation came so much hardship, but also came these pockets of space to try new things. Like, ‘Why not? We’ve done weirder shit this year. Let’s paint the room pink.’”

They had three weeks to flip the Columbia Room space, which was previously hosting sandwich pop-up Your Only Friend. There was a paint job; décor and furniture were bought; vibey tchotchkes were artfully placed throughout. The crowning component was its namesake, inspired by a disco ballstyle Guadalupe statue owned by her uncle.

“That was the first time I saw iconography depicted in a playful manner; it blew my mind,” says Bastasch, who commissioned L.A.-based mirror artist Lina Shamoon to craft a similar one.

A SPACE TO FEEL SEEN She and Brown began devising a menu along with bartender Yaki Udoumoh. (Udoumoh is no longer with the company, now a part of Catoctin Creek Distillery’s newly founded yearlong, fully paid internship program giving budding distillers educational and entrepreneurial experience.)

Each of the nonalcoholic drinks — dubbed ‘immaculate concoctions’ — is boosted with components designed to produce longer-term benefits. The Influencer in the Wild, a bright pink drink, features antioxidant-packed dragon fruit, schisandra berry (an adaptogen) and lemon balm for a calming effect. Stress reducing apoptogenic mushrooms take lead in a riff on the espresso martini; the pumpkin-spiced Dope Kaleidoscope is laced with hemp oil, which has myriad positive properties including inflammation reduction, pain relief and heart health; and the Evolutionary’s main flavor component is wild lettuce, which proponents claim works as an aphrodisiac and energy booster.

All the cocktails can be supplemented with liquor for an additional fee (a variety of alcoholic and nonalcoholic wines, beers and “spritzy and interesting” options are also available), which fits with Bastasch’s vision for an inclusive environment.

“I’m not here to convert people, that’s not my mission,” she says. “I’m just here to offer a space where everyone feels seen.

The whole point isn’t to showcase the drinks, it’s to make people feel seen and beautiful and special.”

It also helps the bottom line. Approximately 70 percent of

sales come from alcoholic beverages. Drinks are paired with a menu of plant-based South and Central American inspired cuisine.

“I selfishly wanted it for myself, and I know there are other people out there that want it as well,” she says.

A GREATER INTENTION The kitchen is overseen by Bastasch’s longtime family friend, Elena Venegas, who immigrated from Mexico two decades ago.

The women collaborated with chef Christian Irabién of Muchas Gracias, who also helms Hospitality Humans, an initiative helping immigrants advance their careers in the restaurant industry. Dishes include miso-laced black beans based on a recipe from Bastasch’s Colombian mother; tostadas stuffed with mole-sauced oyster mushrooms; hearts of palm ceviche tossed in aji amarillo leche de tigre; and shiitake mushrooms and hominy packed pozole.

Putting together the right team for the project was paramount (all staffers earn a minimum $20 wage, a foundational element of Bastasch’s business plan). Manager Chloé Dorsey was a key hire. A plant-based eater who doesn’t drink socially, she felt aligned with Bastasch’s greater intention for the project.

“The heart of it was her vision for how she could change the nightlife and the concept of what it means to go out for cocktails,” she says.

Umarah Mughnee had never been a bartender, having spent her career as a marketing strategist in the health and wellness industry and as a freelance writer for the cannabis website Leafly. She was drawn to Bastasch’s leadership and the safe space Disco Mary would provide for guests.

She doesn’t just make drinks. Through her floral design business Open Tabs Studio, she contributed the standout dried arrangement of palm leaves, pampas grass and baby’s breath popping with pinks, blues and purples installed in a ceiling corner of the bar.

Bastasch envisions the pop-up space as just the beginning of a grander, farther-reaching operation. A website is in the works, where she plans to share resources and information with others who want to build immersive inclusive environments. Though the pop-up hasn’t gotten into the merch game yet, Bastasch intends to change that by selling miniature versions of the Disco Mary statue in the not-so-distant future. The bar itself could grow bigger or become a standalone venture.

“More spaces like this are needed and desired,” she says. “I absolutely see the potential for this to expand.”

In the meantime, she’s simply going to enjoy the experiences Disco Mary is creating for patrons.

“My favorite is people on dates,” Bastasch says. “They’re each ordering something different, something that fulfills them; and they’re both having an amazing time. And I see that every night.”

Disco Mary: 124 Blagden Alley NW, DC; discomary.com // @findingdiscomary

FIRST PAGE L TO R. Umarah Mughnee. Maria Bastasch. THIRD PAGE. Disco Mary cocktail.

DISTRICT FRAY | 25

that Reimagine

10 Local

Cocktails

the Classics

26 | WINTER 2022

WORDS BY TRAVIS MITCHELL

DRINK Classic cocktails form the foundation of modern-day mixology. Drinks like the Manhattan and the margarita endure as crowd-pleasing bartending staples, having been perfected and replicated throughout the decades. But that familiarity doesn’t mean they need to be boring or unimaginative.

In the D.C. region, bars and restaurants are finding new inspiration in these ageless recipes, turning to creative ingredients and flavor profiles like truffle oil, toasted coconut syrup and serrano-infused tequila. Whether you’re looking for a fresh twist on an old favorite or something new entirely, here are 10 variations of classic cocktails to seek out around the city.

Calvados Daiquiri from Bar Chinois This French-inspired take on the classic rum daiquiri features Calvados, an apple brandy produced in Normandy. The rest of the recipe sticks close to its roots, with the liquor shaken together with lime, simple syrup and apple for a crisp and refreshing cocktail. 455 I St. NW, DC; barchinoisdc.com // @barchinoisdc

Cuban Jungle from Colada Shop This cocktail serves full-on tropical vibes, taking cues from the fruity and bitter Jungle Bird. Typically made with dark rum, pineapple and Campari, Colada Shop has smoothed out the tiki classic with additions of toasted coconut syrup, apricot purée, ginger beer and a few dashes of Campari.

It’s an island vacation in a glass. 2920 District Ave. #180 Fairfax, VA; coladashop.com // @coladashop

The Chalqueno from Destino Destino uses common Mexican ingredients to give the reliable Old Fashioned a fresh look. The Union Market newcomer stirs up the whiskey drink with a blue corn chipwashed bourbon, lime oleo (a sugar and citrus oil) and ancho chile. It’ll pair well alongside an order of the kitchen’s guacamole or salsa verde.

1280 4th St. NE, DC; destinodc.com // @destinodc

Hokkaido Martini from China Chilcano Few drinks are more iconic than the martini, a sleek cocktail with gin (or vodka), vermouth and garnish. China Chilcano’s version showcases Asian producers with its base of Japan’s Etsu gin blended with shochu and sake. Finishing touches include Vittore Spanish vermouth, a favorite of owner José Andrés, and a dash of orange bitters. 418 7th St. NW, DC; chinachilcano.com // @chinachilcano

Mercado Margarita from dLeña A little spicy, a little fruity and full of color, the Mercado margarita is an ideal companion to chef and restaurateur Richard Sandoval’s vibrant Mexican menu.

The margarita starts with 100% agave tequila that’s infused with serrano peppers (about three per bottle) for one week. The liquor is then mixed with passionfruit and lime and topped with housemade rosemary hibiscus foam. The result is a tart and bright drink with a manageable kick of heat. 476 K St. NW, DC; dlenadc.com // @dlenadc

Mercado Margarita. Photo courtesy of dLeña.

Million Dollar BeeBee from The Imperial The Bee’s Knees is a straightforward classic of gin, lemon and honey ready for reinvention. At The Imperial, this balanced cocktail gets a decadent upgrade thanks to balsamic honey, truffle oil and egg white. 2001 18th St. NW, DC; imperialdc.com // @theimperialdc

DISTRICT FRAY | 27

DRINK

The Old School Mule from Gatsby Order a Moscow mule and you’ll usually get an ice-cold copper mug filled with vodka, ginger beer, a splash of lime and plenty of ice.

Gatsby Beverage Director Darlin Kulla takes the classic down a different path, swapping in two lesser-known ingredients: Pierre Ferrand Pineau des Charentes, an aged blend of Cognac and grape juice and dry Manzanilla sherry. Both elements give the cocktail a smooth, nutty quality that marries well with the spicy kick of ginger beer and elevates a bar favorite. 1205 Half St. Suite #105 NE, DC; gatsbyrestaurant.com // @gatsby_restaurant

Rum In Coke from Tiki TNT Cocktails don’t get much simpler than a rum and cola.

The iconic spirit and soda combination is a staple of house parties, dive bars and beach vacations. At Tiki TNT, Owner and Distiller Todd Thrasher freezes up this classic drink using his own D.C.-made rum and serves it in a hollowed-out Coke can.

He experimented with a diet version, but found it required too much added sugar. 1130 Maine Ave. SW, DC; tikitnt.com // @tiki_tnt 28 | WINTER 2022

Pisang Pening from The Thirsty Crow Malaysian influences are felt throughout this Columbia Heights bar, cocktails included.

The Pisang Pening, which translates to “banana headache,” riffs on the Manhattan by using banana-infused bourbon along with vermouth, bitters and salt. Beverage director Suzie Critchlow freezes bananas before thawing them in whiskey to achieve maximum taste without too much sugar. 3400 11th St. NW, DC; thirstycrowdc.com // @thirstycrowdc

White Truffle Vieux Carré from Jônt Equal parts rye whiskey, Cognac and vermouth form the backbone of the Vieux Carré, a spiritforward cocktail created in New Orleans. At Jônt, this sophisticated beverage is made with a white truffleinfused Cognac, which brings an extra earthiness to the palate.

It’s a luxurious and complex sip — one that also helps the restaurant repurpose scrap pieces of truffle that are too small to use in the kitchen. 1904 14th St. NW, DC; jontdc.com // @jont_dc Hokkaido Martini. Photo by Rey Lopez.

P L E A S E D R I N K R E S P O N S I B LY TENNESSEE WHISKEY, 40% ALC. BY VOL. (80 PROOF) DISTILLED AND BOTTLED BY JACK DANIEL’S DISTILLERY, LYNCHBURG, TENNESSEE. JACK DANIEL’S AND OLD NO.7 ARE REGISTERED TRADEMARKS. ©2020 JACK DANIEL’S. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

WORDS + PHOTOS BY ANDREW J. WILLIAMS III

Mixology, like most art forms, is a labor of love — at times mechanical and difficult to perfect, yet also gratifying and inspirational. And beyond the sleek bar designs, inventive drink titles and ingenious concoctions is the effort, care, choices and individual stories we often overlook while reaping all benefits: a libation tailored to our unique palates. We pulled back the curtain at one of our favorite watering holes for an insidelook at a talented mixologist on-the-rise: 600T’s Kelvin “Chance” Bacon, a name easy to remember who makes drinks that are hard to forget. In January, we spent an evening with Bacon at the stylish subterranean bar as he divulged the intricacies of its inner workings, traced his professional journey and offered a glimpse into his future.

4:35 to 5:45 p.m.

I arrive close to opening on a frosty Wednesday evening. 600T’s first reservation is at 7 p.m. and I’m told they’re expecting a slow night.

You wouldn’t know it by the organized chaos: ice cutting, fresh juice and syrup preparation, cocktail batching, popcorn popping and the pitter-patter of tiny feet (the owner’s family lives in the row house above). Then there’s the aesthetics of stoking the fireplace, lighting candles and ensuring the carefully curated playlist is on-point. The mood needs to be just right.

“One of our biggest goals is to engage our guests on multiple levels,” Bacon says, unmasking the ethos that drives 600T’s approach.

“We believe in having multiple nuances within our scheme. When guests come, not only are they going to have a great drink but they’re going to have nice aromatics, [they’re] going to have a nice ambience. It’s going to feel warm and comfortable.”

It’s an environment you can both taste and breathe in.

It’s all a bit overwhelming. Yet, they operate with a practiced calm. And Bacon, who has an admittedly even keel demeanor, is built for this.

“Right now, we probably don’t look like we are ready to open but in the next 15 minutes, you’re going to [see magic].”

It’s an unmistakable allegory for the service industry’s resilience over the last two years. Bars like 600T remained steadfast, nimble and eager to innovate in the midst of a pandemic.

I also learned simplicity is paramount. Bacon goes on to describe the process of controlling the chaos, even as you roll out an unfamiliar menu like they’re doing tonight. The only major shift they anticipate is recalibrating their muscle memory with new bottle placements.

This particular menu is “not too aggressive.” The recipes call for similar syrups and subtle manipulations of other tried-and-true ingredients.

In many ways, it demonstrates bartending’s degree of difficulty.

Make a lot from a little, while also maintaining an impressive mental catalogue of mixtures and craft cocktail recipes.

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5:45 to 7:30 p.m.

The bar is humming as patrons trickle in. The playlist is a collage of oldies,’90s and early ’00s rap and a dash of Caribbean vibes — high-energy, soulful and nostalgic, like a good drink.

It’s the perfect moment to discuss the Miami-born Bacon’s path to 600T, which began as an undergraduate at Florida A&M University at Red Lobster of all places. In 2008, Bacon, out of necessity, reluctantly took a position as server. Nine months later they promoted him to bartender. That was his foray into the service industry, without a specific plan except to keep climbing the ladder to an unknown destination.

He eventually moved to D.C. in 2013 for an event planning internship, working at Farmers Fishers Bakers before assuming a bartending position there full-time in 2015. This is the moment he says “his true cocktail journey started.”

“It was something I enjoyed,” Bacon says. “I was good at it.

I felt confident and it [felt like a] safe place. It was a natural niche.”

For years, Bacon struggled with his confidence before leaning into pursuing a bartending career.

Bacon believes his awakening is rooted in how millennials came of age as witnesses to social media’s birth, advancements he sees as never meant for them. As the nexus between two vastly different generations (Gen X and Gen Z), many millennials are only now gaining the confidence to pursue their passions.

“Back then everyone did the same thing,” Bacon says. “You went to high school, went to college, got a degree, got a job, worked 20 years, waited 20 years to get promoted [and] finally retired. And that’s okay.

[But] that’s not what everyone wants.”

Kelvin matured into risktaking and seizing the moment despite his setbacks. As a young Black professional in the beverage industry, he’s grateful for the opportunity to cultivate his skills at 600T, having endured the all too-common subtle byproducts of racial bias, such as missed opportunities and failed promotions.

Though Bacon doesn’t make excuses. He believes you have to be hands-on in shaping your destiny, especially when you have big dreams.

“I don’t want to place time on my journey. I have to continuously adjust to be sure I’m successful. Although I love bartending, I want to grow within my craft.”

7:30 p.m. to close At this hour, Bacon and the team hit their stride. The drinks are flowing and the space is abuzz with patrons sipping creations from the new menu.

Bacon’s big dream: One day owning a bar, a next act that may fully unleash him to share his gifts and manifest his colorful vision. As he describes it, there’s a swagger and flair concealed beneath his cool headedness.

“I’m from Miami and as a culture we’re flamboyant, a little loud and definitely flashy,” Bacon says of his Southern Florida beginnings.

“I like to transfer that into my cocktail [making]. I love colors, vegetation [and] flowers. I love tropical drinks and drinks that are native to Mexico, Central America and the West Indies.”

As we close our conversation, I’m already ready for a return visit to see Bacon work his magic. His words and candidness are a reminder mixologists pour imagination and personality into every drink they serve and every purposeful step of their journeys.

600T: 600 T St. NW, DC; 600tdc.com // @600tcocktails

FIRST PAGE. Kelvin Bacon. FOURTH PAGE. Laurel Oldershaw.

Laurel Oldershaw is an athlete, mixologist at two of D.C.’s most prominent cocktail bars — Allegory and Serenata — and the founder and GM of Bay Leaf Bitters, a sports and cocktail bar that celebrates and highlights women, trans, nonbinary and genderqueer folks in sports. The bar currently operates as a pop-up concept with the goal to eventually open a brick-and-mortar space in D.C. We caught up with Oldershaw to explore her journey and the lessons she brings from the playing field to her craft.

District Fray: When did you know you wanted to make a career out of immersing yourself in cocktail culture? How has your view of the profession evolved?

Lauren Oldershaw: When I first started in the industry, it brought back memories of cooking with my Jewish grandmothers and sharing a big Passover meal with [multiple] courses of food and rounds of wine. My first passion in life [is] elite and professional sports, my second is definitely food and drink. I found that over time as I [learned] more about spirits and steps of service, I was in [the same] flow state bartending as I was on an ultimate frisbee field.

How would you define your approach to mixology? What inspires you creatively?

I believe a cocktail is like a story: It has a beginning, middle and end. I want each cocktail to tell a story, celebrate someone or be what someone drinks to celebrate. I’m lucky to be surrounded by incredible teams at Allegory and Serenata, who are constantly raising the bar when it comes to technique and execution. And who, thankfully, put up with my barrage of questions and bad jokes. My job right now is coming up with stories and experimenting with new flavors and styles of cocktails; it’s like a creative writing seminar with liquor. I love it.

As a lifelong athlete, are there lessons you bring from the playing field?

Definitely. Like a great athlete, no great bartender is an island. In order to be successful at your sport, you need teammates, people competing (or serving) with you and people advocating for you. You need to practice your skills constantly to develop and improve muscle memory. You also need a certain level of creativity and improvisational skills. No matter what you strategize for, anything can happen and you have to adjust in the moment. When you watch a team play with great chemistry in a beautiful flow state, it’s [similar to] watching an incredible service team in action.

Allegory: 1201 K St. #1 NW, DC; allegory-dc.com // @allegory_dc Bay Leaf Bitters: bayleafbittersco.com // @bayleafbitters; @laureloldershaw Serenata: 1280 4th St. NE, DC; serenatadc.com // @serenatadc

SHAKEN, NOT STIRRED A CONVERSATION WITH LAUREL OLDERSHAW

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WINTER 2022 COVER SHOOT. Check out some behind-the-scenes moments from our cover shoot at Disco Mary with cover star Maria Bastasch and her colleagues Umarah Mughnee and Chloé Dorsey. Cover photographer Jennifer Chase’s use of color and UV light manipulation, along with a Rihanna-centric playlist, offered endless candid photo opportunities. Photos by Nicole Schaller.

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EMERGING FROM THE

SHADOWS

12 Local Speakeasies to Unearth WORDS BY COLLEEN KENNEDY

DRINK The Roaring Twenties blared as a post-pandemic party. Those decadent parties of yore with flowing champagne, jazz bands and well-dressed hedonism were all completely illegal due to Prohibition. Speakeasies, also known colorfully as gin joints and blind pigs, were often tucked downstairs, entered through an unmarked entrance and protected with secret passwords — or you had to be invited by someone who knew someone. A century later, we again find ourselves looking for a place to lift our glasses with friends. And while pub and lounge doors are now adorned with signs about mask and vax policies, modernera speakeasies can still be found upstairs or downstairs, hidden behind mirrors or bookcases, serving up classic cocktails and contemporary hip-hop across the District. Rohit Malhotra, beverage manager at BackRoom at Capo Deli, shares a modern speakeasy isn’t in plain view and often purposely lacks a strong social media presence or advertising. “It’s ideal you don’t know what to expect until you get inside,” Malhotra explains. “And once you know, you want to share the secret or keep it to yourself.” Descend into our list of must-try D.C. area speakeasies below.

in a unique elephant-shaped glass. During their happy hour (including small plates), enjoy a mix of upbeat soul music from the ’50s and ’60s. Disco and electropop closes out the bar later in the evening. 1800 14th St. NW, DC; doimoidc.com // @doimoidc

Classy AF: The Gibson

A ‘90s Spin on the Speakeasy: Never Looked Better

One of the earlier craft cocktail bars in D.C., the Gibson opened in 2009. Manager Jewel Murray shares, “Throughout the years, we have stayed true to our commitment to bringing pre-Prohibition era cocktails to enthusiasts and dabblers alike.”

Closed for most of 2020 and 2021, the sophisticated speakeasy is once again pouring giggle water. Murray recommends reservations, especially on the weekends, and ordering either the signature Old Fashioned or the Gibson original the Hay Fever, made with vodka, elderflower liqueur, grapefruit, lemon and grenadine. She also notes the bartenders want to speak about the build of a drink to craft the perfect concoction for your tastes. 2009 14th St. NW, DC; thegibsondc.com // @thegibsondc

...And What Alice Found There: Allegory Follow the White Rabbit to this high-concept speakeasy that blends art, literature, social justice, craft cocktails and hospitality. The cocktail menu allegorically salutes civil rights pioneer Ruby Bridges through the story of “Alice in Wonderland.” Accessible through the radical book library at the Eaton DC hotel, the drinks are experimental. Try the Jabberwocky, a take on a classic mai tai with a darker, moodier spice profile that features a traditional Middle Eastern mix and a brine from fermenting hot peppers. You might also grow taller or shorter with the Seeds of Destruction, a martini turned into “caviar” spheres and served with a stack of Pringles. Allegory will launch a new electrifying menu in February by Master Mixologist Deke Dunne. 1201 K St. NW, DC; allegory-dc.com // @allegory_dc

Turn on the Pink Light: doi moi downstairs The team at doi moi downstairs describe the vibe as “modern day opium den...but no drugs. It’s a little naughty, a lot sexy and definitely has an air of escapism.” Once the pink light is on at the popular 14th Street Vietnamese restaurant, head downstairs to sip the Elephant in the Room — featuring mezcal, Aperol, honey, passion fruit, coconut and lime — and served 36 | WINTER 2022

Beyond the Fauci Pouchy: The BackRoom at Capo Deli The home of the nationally recognized pandemic drink-to-go, the Fauci Pouchy is behind a freezer door at the old school Italian Capo Deli in Shaw. Inside the darkened nightclub, there hangs a crystal chandelier with DJs spinning contemporary beats in one corner and bartenders shaking up drinks behind the bar. In this energetic dance club, don’t expect a chill atmosphere and hushed tones. “It’s not a classic speakeasy,” shares creative director Natalie Flynn. “You don’t need a waxed moustache. Come as you are.” And for those who still prefer their cocktails at home, The BackRoom offers other drinks to go, including the booze du jour, a bottled espresso martini serving 10 2.5-ounce drinks. 715 Florida Ave. NW, DC; capodeli.com // @capoitaliandeli

Another unconventional take on the speakeasy, Never Looked Better is the sister bar of Mirror on K Street. Look for the sticker-covered door in the mural-filled Blagden Alley and head downstairs to a club that embraces the drinks and decor of the ’90s. Enjoy that appletini or cosmopolitan like you are hanging out with Carrie, Miranda, Charlotte and, of course, Samantha.

Relive fantasies of Tom Cruise in “Cocktail.” Emblazoned with neon lights and retro colors of teal, pink and purple, the subterranean Never Looked Better recalls the vibe of a word-ofmouth rave. 130 Blagden Alley, NW, DC; neverlookedbetterdc.com // @neverlookedbetterdc

Truth in Advertising: Chicken + Whiskey Good, fast, cheap and fun, Chicken + Whiskey on 14th Street is beloved for its tasty Peruvian chicken. Behind a fridge door at the back, there is an impressive whiskey bar with DJs spinning vinyl — often reggaeton, old-school funk and Latin pop. There are 99 whiskeys on the menu available for 2-ounce pours. (The name of the place is pretty upfront about its two specialties.)

The current favorite cocktail is Becky’s Only Fans, made with Tito’s vodka, passion fruit, vanilla and lime. 1738 14th St. NW, DC; chickenandwhiskey.com/whiskeybar // @chickenandwhiskey

A Laidback Speakeasy in Alexandria: Captain Gregory’s The laidback, welcoming Captain Gregory’s opened in Alexandria six years ago and features an evolving themed menu that changes every six to eight weeks, inviting patrons to visit again and again for the newest libations. Currently they are rolling into an Appalachian-inspired cocktail menu (think bourbon, apple brandy, rye, pine notes) and will follow with Winter in Tokyo (Japanese gin, whiskeys, yuzu and sake).

For those awaiting booster number four, Captain Gregory’s has concocted a penicillin riff with Islay scotch, Bénédictine, dandelion-ginger root syrup, lemon and marigolds as well as Photos courtesy of Captain Gregory's.

a stirred Old Fashioned-style cocktail with rye, apple brandy, Bavarian hop infused honey, allspice dram, lavender and honey bitters. Unpretentious, friendly and delicious. 804 North Henry St. Alexandria, VA; captaingregorys.com // @captaingregorys

That ‘70s Show: The Side Door at Pub & the People The Eckington/Bloomingdale pub with tasty tavern fare is already cozy and welcoming, with an intimate indoor space, large patio and friendly staff. But they have recently expanded by turning their basement space into a 1970s style rec room for grown-ups. The Side Door still features delectable cocktails (recently a series of snowstorm inspired drinks for the wintry weather) but in a wood-panelled lower space, with green vinyl furniture and a to-die-for record collection lining one of the walls. 1648 N Capitol St. NW, DC; thepubandthepeople.com // @pubandthepeople

Through the Looking Glass: Mirror Self-described as “secret bar, classic cocktails,” this may be D.C.’s most hidden speakeasy. On K Street NW, find the most nondescript business facade, go inside, head downstairs and enter through the mirrored panel. Once you’ve gone through the looking glass, you are transported to a classic cocktail bar with leather furniture, sable-painted walls and drinks of the past, such as Aviation, Corpse Reviver #2 and Tom Collins.

1413 K St. NW, DC; themirrordc.com // @themirrordc

Art Deco Decadence: Denson Liquor Bar Around the corner from Shakespeare Theatre Company in Penn Quarter, head downstairs and get transported back to the 1920s. In this dimly lit art deco bar, you won’t come across Billie Holiday or F. Scott Fitzgerald imbibing, but you could easily imagine. Denson’s curved leather banquettes pull your party in close for conspiratorial conversations, while you enjoy caviar, deviled eggs and old-fashioned cocktails. I recommend the aromatic Rosemary’s Rye to warm you up: Rye whiskey, rosemary-cinnamon syrup and angostura bitters. 600 F St. NW, DC; densondc.com // @densondc

A Speakeasy in Your Backyard: Cocktail Club at Hook Hall Hook Hall in Park View is one of several, large beer gardens along Georgia Avenue. Laidback, lively and friendly for those with kids and dogs, Hook Hall always feels like a chill backyard party with friends and neighbors, complete with games and a relaxing garden. But even our most trusted neighbors can keep secrets: Every few weeks, master mixologist Mick Perrigo devises a new themed drink menu (recent themes included Prohibition, Eye of the Tiger and Holiday Mythical Creatures) for 90-minute reserved sessions of three tempting cocktails and “unexpected surprises.” 3400 Georgia Ave. NW, DC; hookhall.com/cocktailclub // @hookhall_dc

Speakeasy-Esque: Copycat Co. Copycat Co. on H Street checks off a few of the speakeasy boxes: You might walk past it if you aren’t paying attention, it’s intimate and dark inside and it serves up spirited mixed drinks. But it’s a bit more rock ‘n’ roll, offers incredibly tasty Chinese street food in shareable portions and doesn’t bill itself as a speakeasy. Located upstairs, sweet, sour and savory pot stickers, wontons and meat dishes accompany a bevy of both classic and rotating featured cocktail selections. On my last outing, I warmed up with the Clyde Barrow, a boozy, grownup take on a spiced cider with allspice, cinnamon, Montenegro, bourbon and cream on top. 1110 H St. NE, DC; copycatcompany.com // @copycatco

Note: Due to ever-changing Covid policies and the smaller spaces of many speakeasies, several others that would’ve joined this list are taking a pause until they can safely reopen.

For all of the above, please check for hours, safety protocols and whether reservations are required.

MEZCAL MAVEN KELLY PHILLIPS on the Art of Storytelling WORDS BY COLLEEN KENNEDY | PHOTOS BY ANDREW J. WILLIAMS III

Kelly Phillips is a writer, collector and sharer of stories. As cofounder and hospitality director of Destination Unknown Restaurants, Phillips is known for several new restaurants around the District including Espita, Destino, Taqueria Las Gemelas and Ghostburger.

But it was storytelling that drew her to the restaurant business in the first place.

“I grew up in a big family and I remember gathering around the dinner table telling stories,” Phillips says. “Making meals for people, making people laugh, taking care of people, cleaning up afterwards — all of that’s always been a part of my life.

That’s what I loved about restaurants.”

Phillips solidified her passion for food and hospitality through her foray as a journalist and food writer at the nowdefunct Philadelphia City Paper. As a writer, she learned about different cuisines, critiqued meals and enjoyed the best seat at successful launches of Philadelphia restaurants.

She took a first date, a Philadelphia bartender-turnedconsultant, on one of her restaurant reviews and barely remembers the meal — other than he ordered the veal while she was still a practicing vegetarian.

“I thought it was hilarious,” she laughs, fondly recalling that they lingered over that all-but-forgotten meal discussing their shared love of cooking and dining out at the buzziest new restaurants in Philly. The couple also learned of each other’s adventurous sides and willingness to take risks.

This June, Phillips and her now-husband Josh, who is the cofounder and president of Destination Unknown Restaurants, will celebrate twelve years of marriage.

Phillips credits her brief journalistic career to her true vocation. As a food writer, she was introduced to the intricacies of restaurants as a business — but admits she became more enamored with the dream of owning a restaurant than with writing about them.

“Being a writer opened doors for me and made me really interested in seeing what people do as restaurant owners and chefs, and how they become part of the community,” she shares.

“But I don’t think I would have made the move to running a restaurant without Josh. He’s my partner in everything.”

“We complement each other fairly well,” Josh Phillips says of his wife and business partner. “We’ve learned to lean on each other a little more.”

from Cinco Sentidos.”

DRINK In Oaxaca, Phillips got a tattoo of a hummingbird (colibrí) on her arm.

“Hummingbirds are always seeking the nectar, so it’s just a reminder to always look for the sweet things in life. Plus, Josh got this idea to open a mezcal bar and we knew we had to have food go along with it.”

The Master + The Mezcal

The casual mezcaleria was such a hit the Phillips looked into future ventures together. The couple, who live near Union Market, were already designing their next neighborhood restaurants when the pandemic struck and they pivoted on their current brand.

Knowing tacos could turn soggy when they traveled too far, Phillips says they went back to their Pennsylvania roots: decadent Philly cheesesteaks, double and triple decker smash burgers and loaded fries — the perfect comfort food for those staying home at the height of the pandemic.

In August 2020, they invested just over $1,000 to launch Ghostburger inside Espita’s kitchen with Executive Chef Robert Aikens at the helm.

“I honestly doubted it would work, but we agreed to give it a shot,” Phillips admits. “No one will fault you if your pop-up doesn’t succeed.”

Instead, Ghostburger — identifiable by its hot pink ghost emblem — received the 2021 RAMMY Award for Outstanding Ghost Kitchen or Pop-up Concept. Phillips credits storytelling to the success of Ghostburger.

“People eat with their eyes,” she says.

Phillips says in the darkest of days, her work gave her a reason to get dressed, get out of the house and write up some witty captions for their Instagram account. But not only was it work to be done, keeping her dream of owning a restaurant alive and staff employed, it was also fun — and brought joy to others.

“There were a lot of machetes involved,” Phillips shares about her training to become a master mezcalier, a sommelier of the agave-based liquor. “Out in the fields, I could hear rattlesnakes nearby and it was just incredibly wild and fun.”

Josh introduced her to the now-ubiquitous mezcal before it became popular in the U.S. After a few sips, they were obsessed with the smoky, sweet flavor. In 2014, they traveled to Mexico, visiting palenques (mezcal distilleries) and learning the histories of their new favorite drink. In Oaxaca, where the drink originates and is still the dominant place of manufacturing, they studied under Douglas French, master distiller and creator of Scorpion Mezcal. The Phillips’ learned different agave varietals by cutting down the large desert succulents (hence, the machetes), learning the distillation process and making mezcal cocktails.

“With mezcal, it’s all about the terroir (the overall environment where the agave is grown) and the producer,” Phillips says, offering an insider tip to discovering the best mezcal. “There’s a very romantic spirit in mezcal and everybody always talks about the smokiness, but too much smoke is actually a bad thing. It shouldn’t be aggressive and depending on the agave plant, you’re looking for a tropical flavor — a certain richness. Right now, I love Mezonte which is made by the same producers as Don Mateo. I also reach for anything

Kelly Phillips.

Destination Unknown Lands in D.C. Phillips has always felt connected to the food and culture of Mexico, even before her travels to savor and learn about mezcal.

Phillips’ grandmother was from Nuevo Leon in Northern Mexico and her family settled in San Antonio where her grandparents met and fell in love. She grew up eating Mexican foods prepared by her mother using family recipes while sharing memories about her grandmother.

Kelly and Josh decided to move to D.C. in 2014, where their research indicated an opportunity to follow their dreams: to tell stories through their food and create community here.

In 2016, the Phillips opened Espita which serves Southern Mexican fare and mezcal in an industrial setting — dark woods, steel and concrete — in the Shaw neighborhood. Phillips describes it as a little punk rock, with Oaxacan street art and murals in vivid shades adorning the walls.

“If a table wants to order mezcal, I’m happy to go over to them and recommend one, find out what flavor profiles they’re looking for,” Phillips states about her desire to connect with diners over her favorite drink. “It’s really important to talk about the family that made [the mezcal] and I have been lucky to meet many of those families.”

The Little Pink Ghost Who Could

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DRINK “Leah Judson, who was a friend with a camera and is now our creative director, took amazing photos of the food,” Phillips says. “I launched our Instagram account and just had fun with it. I think it was a combination of the photos, the voice and the branding. We were very consistent with that. We wouldn’t give up.”

The expectations for the ghost kitchen’s sales were modest.

“We thought we might make 50 burgers a week but on our first day we sold 150 burgers. The next day we sold out. And it’s still doing really well. People still have their jobs because of the burgers.”

“It’s really funny because he’s exactly how you think he is,” Kelly states. “What a great person to come in. It was an amazing, special moment.”

Destino is the fanciest of their restaurant concepts, but still breezy and welcoming. Raised on a dais at La Cosecha, it’s tucked into a corner but feels very spacious with high ceilings.

“This is where you would go for a date night. We’re known for cocktails, but we carry a great selection of wines from Latin America and a lot of sustainable and organic or natural wines.”

Biden Their Time

The Phillips share they have set their roots deep into D.C. and plan to stay here, investing in future restaurants and the communities they have grown to love. They are currently scouting a location for a standalone Ghostburger, as well as crafting a vegetarian burger option. They hope to partner with D.C. designer Chris Cardi on uniforms at some point.

Josh Phillips says, “I am the one who has the crazy ideas and she is the one to reign them in and execute them. She’s a great team builder and she empowers the team to be excellent.”

This empowerment includes trying out different wage models, shifting all full-time employees to salaried and providing training so staff have experience and confidence as managers.

Kelly Phillips, too, dreams of her perfect post-pandemic day in the District, riding her electric moped to Georgetown to order from Green Almond Pantry, leisurely dining by the canal while reading a book (she’s currently into Megan Noland and Sally Rooney), and in the evening, hosting friends over for dinner while sharing laughs and stories over great food and mezcal.

“Storytelling remains a part of what we do now. Every time we open a restaurant, I’m thinking: ‘What is the story? How do I relay this to my team? How do we share this story with others?’”

When Covid-19 hit in February 2020, the Phillips had already signed a lease to open a taqueria and a second TBD concept restaurant at La Cosecha, the Latin American marketplace located just a block away from Union Market. Many investors pulled out, but Phillips knew their reputations and livelihoods were on the line. Buoyed by the success of Ghostburger, they were able to pitch to new investors, giving tours of the space and sharing menus.

“The pandemic taught us to not be afraid to take risks,” Phillips says. “You really have to be fearless. You have to think quickly.”

Taqueria Las Gemelas opened in March 2021 and two weeks later they opened the restaurant portion, which was rebranded as Destino in December.

The taqueria is “fast fancy.” The food is inspired by what you’d grab at a casual taqueria in Mexico City. A modern, bright space, the beautiful pink tile and lightwood seating makes for a beachy color combination. There is outdoor seating as well.

On Cinco de Mayo, President Biden visited Las Gemelas and Phillips took the call that the President wanted to try their most popular tacos. Phillips also shared that Destination Unknown Restaurants had received a Restaurant Revitalization Fund, the first public announcement of this needed grant.

Not Ghosting on D.C.

Learn more about Destination Unknown Restaurants at destination.restaurant/about, and be sure to check out the restaurants’ mouthwatering menus.

Destino: 1280 4th St. NE, DC; destinodc.com // @destino Espita DC: 1250 9th St. NW, DC; espitadc.com // @​​espitadc Ghostburger: 1250 9th St. NW, DC; ghostburgerdc.com // @ghostburgerdc Taqueria Las Gemelas: 1280 4th St. NE, DC; lasgemelasdc.com // @lasgemelasdc

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TIPS FOR DECIPHERING A

COCKTAIL MENU

WORDS BY TRAVIS MITCHELL

Building a cocktail is a lot like cooking. When done well, ingredients and flavors come together to create something greater than its parts. Like your favorite foods, cocktails come in all flavors. Some are fruity, some are bitter. Some are spirit-forward sippers, while others are icy and refreshing. When out at a bar, it can be hard to know what you’re getting into. Names and descriptions help but they’re only part of the puzzle. Here are five tips from local bartenders on the best ways to order a cocktail you’ll love.

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Experienced bartenders are happy to make recommendations, but asking for their favorite drink or a restaurant’s top seller can be misleading. Good cocktail menus are designed to reach a wide audience, so be confident in trusting your palate.

Once you know what you like, give the menu a scan. Most cocktail descriptions list the base spirit first, as it’s often the most dominant flavor. The rest of the components are usually highlighted from most-to-least prominent.

Know what you like to drink (not just what’s most popular)

Find context clues in familiar ingredients + flavor descriptions

“You’ve got to ask yourself what you like,” says Gina Chersevani, owner of Buffalo & Bergen and Last Call in Union Market District. “If you’re somebody who likes fruit, don’t be convinced to get a bitter cocktail.”

“Reading through the order of the ingredients will give you a good idea what to expect flavorwise,” says Felix Meija, bar manager at TTT in Clarendon.

He also recommends paying attention to specific descriptors that can help paint the picture.

Even if the ingredients don’t exactly match up, this information can help bartenders better guide you toward a decision. For example, Chersevani says fans of tropical flavors might also enjoy a drink that uses coriander or hibiscus tea.

“If the syrup is spiced, you should expect a different flavor — maybe cinnamon, clove or star anise — rather than just sweetness. If the fruit is charred or burnt, you can expect some toastier notes.”

3

Look for a new take on a favorite Most modern cocktails descend from an existing recipe, like a margarita, a martini or an old fashioned. If you find something you’re into, there’s almost certain to be a fresh twist out there waiting to be discovered.

“Starting with what you know you like is the easiest way to find something else you’re going to like,” says David Strauss, owner of O.K.P.B. in D.C.’s Mount Pleasant neighborhood. “It is one of the first things I ask guests who are having trouble deciding what to get.”

Even before you get to the bar, reading up on common cocktails or experimenting with them at home can make you more comfortable the next time you’re out with friends.

“Master the classics like a good gin martini, a whiskey sour with egg whites, or a simple 1:1:1 negroni, then start experimenting with different styles of spirit, vermouths and syrups,” advises Philip Keath, service manager and bartender at The Duck & The Peach in Capitol Hill. “My favorite is a mezcal negroni.”

Buffalo & Bergen: 240 Massachusetts Ave. NE, DC + 1309 5th St. NE, DC; buffalobergendc.com // @buffalobergendc • The Duck & The Peach: 300 7th St. SE, DC; duckandpeachdc.com // @duckandpeach_dc • King’s Ransom: 728 King St. Alexandria, VA; kingsransomalx.com // @kingsransom.alx • Last Call: 1301-A 4th St. NE, DC; lastcallbardc.com // @lastcallbardc 42 | WINTER 2022

4

Recognize that not all cocktails pack the same punch A standard cocktail contains between two ounces and three ounces of liquor — about the size of a large shot glass.

Some drinks are made with more than one alcohol or liqueur, which can lead to a stronger bite.

“If you’re seeing three liquors in a drink, it’s 100% not for the timid,” Chersevani says. “And if you’re seeing five liquors in a drink, like in a Long Island iced tea, get ready because that’s real.”

A descriptive menu will offer guidance on which drinks are more intense than others.

“If you’re looking at a cocktail and you’re not seeing a lot of words that say cordial or syrup or sugar or juice, then you’re looking at a drink that’s strong,” says Jon Schott, beverage director of The People’s Drug and King’s Ransom in Old Town Alexandria.

Another tip for finding lighter drinks is to stick with cocktails that use sherry, vermouth, wine or beer as a base, as these have a lower alcohol content.

5

When in doubt, start a conversation Google is a helpful tool for decoding ingredients but it’s no substitute for face-to-face conversation. Professional bartenders welcome questions, no matter how beginner — especially if it helps you order a cocktail you love.

“What’s the point of getting a vodka soda because you’re too afraid to interact with the barkeep?” Schott asks. “At the end of the day, no matter what, we want to get you a cocktail that makes you the happiest.”

O.K.P.B.: 3165 Mt. Pleasant St. NW, DC; okpbdc.com // @okpbdc • The People’s Drug: 103 N. Alfred St. Alexandria, VA; thepeoplesdrug.com // @thepeoplesdrug • TTT Clarendon: 2900 Wilson Blvd. Suite 103 Arlington, VA; tttrestaurant.com // @tttrestaurant Jon Schott of People’s Drug + King’s Ransom. Gina Chersevani of Buffalo & Bergen. Photos courtesy of subjects.

DISTRICT FRAY | 43

DRINK

Bar Cart Basics WORDS BY JAMES LISKA | PHOTO BY ANDREW J. WILLIAMS III

There’s a certain kind of magic that takes place in a cocktail bar, when complex ingredients meet fancy tools in the skilled hands of a mixologist. Perched at the bar, you might watch in awe as the maestra mixes and shakes, stirring and blending with exotic instruments, plucking organic items from jars and carefully adding droplets of some unknown liquid into a gleaming chrome shaker.

With a flourish, she might pour this concoction into a delicate glass and garnish with a fresh leaf. With your first sip, you know you’ve chosen correctly. The cocktail seems to be greater than the sum of its parts, and you may leave wondering how on Earth anyone learns to create such a masterpiece seemingly from thin air. No, you say to yourself, I could never make such a thing at home.

While mixologists at bars have access to dozens of ingredients and a lot of expensive, specialty spirits, they all had to start from somewhere — and the same techniques they use at the bar can be replicated (with practice) at home. While you may not have the myriad tools, extensive experience or professional equipment at home, you can still make a good portion of the cocktails you’d find in a bar from the comfort of your pajamas. It’s not as expensive or as complex as you’d think. So where should you begin?

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

OTHER NICE-TO-HAVES

First thing’s first: You need the right tools. While there are dozens of pricey, specialized gadgets out there, you really only need four basic tools to make most cocktails.

A speed pourer (the metal spouts you sometimes see on olive oil bottles — this works for liquor too and will help with precise pouring into your jigger); a funnel, a muddler for bruising and crushing fruit or leaves in your shaker; a juicer or press for fresh-squeezing juice; and cocktail picks to spear garnishes and finish your cocktails with a flourish.

1. BAR SPOON. A long spoon stretching 12” or more. This is for precision mixing and stirring.

You can use a regular spoon if needed, but most bar spoons have knurled edges or twists that make it easier to stir.

2. COCKTAIL SHAKER. You need this if you want to make even the most basic cocktails. This simple set of mixing cups is the crucible in which your concoctions are forged. Many cocktail shakers have a lid that strains (called a Julep strainer) but there’s also a Boston shaker, which is just two cups that come together. Either will do.

3. DOUBLE JIGGER. This little doohickey is a double-sided measuring cup, making it easy for you to pour out your spirits.

They typically are 1 ounce or 2 ounces, but sometimes you’ll find .75 ounce and 1.5 ounce varieties.

4. HAWTHORNE STRAINER. A palm-sized circular device with a metal coil on one side. You’ll use this to cover your shaker when pouring your cocktail into a glass. The coils and slots will strain out everything but the liquid.

44 | WINTER 2022

You’ll also find absinthe spoons, cocktail smokers, brass ice-presses, vermouth misters and elaborate pressurized foamers. Most of them (with the exception of an absinthe spoon) are “form over function” and are best suited for craft cocktail bars where flair and showmanship are integral parts of the experience.

About glassware: Don’t overthink it. Yes, there are dozens of styles of glasses, all suited for different drinks and purported to enhance the flavors of whatever spirit that’s inside. Allpurpose cocktail glasses like the short, stout, wide rocks glasses will do for most drinks. You can upgrade to fancier styles later, but I wouldn’t recommend spending top-dollar or falling for the fallacy that you need a specialized glass for each type of cocktail.

ALL ABOUT THAT BASE The next step in building a home bar is understanding base spirits. Base spirit is the liquid foundation upon which the drink is built — the predominant booze for any given cocktail. For example, the base spirit of a margarita is tequila. Old Fashioned? The base spirit is whiskey. Gin and tonic? I’ll let you figure that one out.

I would recommend finding good quality, inexpensive spirits to mix. You don’t want high-quality stuff to toss in with mixers. Brands I like for mixing whiskey are Buffalo Trace, Heaven Hill and Old Forester. Bulleit is overrated and has a checkered past of anti-LGBTQ+ sentiment, so don’t buy it. Other favorite bases are Monopolowa potato vodka, Javelina blanco tequila, Bluecoat dry gin and Plantation spiced rums (there’s a whole line, all great.)

EMBELLISHMENTS Next come the other ingredients: bitters, cocktail garnishes and mixers. Many cocktail recipes call for adjuncts to add flavor, substance and texture to spirits.

BITTERS. It’s a misnomer cocktail bitters are actually bitter. Some may be, but for the most part these cocktail additives are simply neutral spirits infused with herbs, spices, barks or extracts. Think of them like the condiments for your cocktails. The most common bitters are Angostura and orange, although there are hundreds of varieties.

I have over twenty bottles of bitters in my bar, my three favorites being eucalyptus, habanero and molasses.

GARNISH. For the final flourish, you’ll want garnish. Cocktail olives are the classic garnish for Martini, but the sky’s the limit: You can use dried fruit like oranges and lemon, fresh fruit, maraschino cherries, leafy greens, chocolate and even edible bites of food to accompany the cocktail.

MIXERS. For “long” drinks, you’ll need mixers — nonalcoholic beverages to blend with your spirits and bitters. The most common are ginger beer, tonic water, club soda seltzer or soda.

There are tons of brands out there, but I like San Pellegrino’s oakwood tonic and Fever Tree’s line of mixers. They have a bunch: ginger beer, lime & yuzu, pink grapefruit and lemon tonic, to name a few. Lemon juice is also critical.

TONICS + SYRUPS. One of the most important liquids in a home bar is simple syrup — just sugar water, really, but crucial in so many drinks.

There’s a lot of flavored variants here, and D.C.’s own Pratt Standard makes a lot of great syrups and tonics, which are just sugar syrup mixed with other ingredients (usually fruit extract or spices.).

LOCAL PURVEYORS Since D.C.’s alcohol consumption per capita is second only to New Hampshire, it stands to reason there’s a lot of places to buy your booze. While nothing beats the big box stores like Total Wine for selection and prices, I like to shop local. Odds are local proprietors are far more acquainted with their products and can get their hands on some rare stuff. Here’s a few of my go-to places.

COSTCO. Like Trader Joe’s, Costco is famous for their in-house brands. The Kirkland Signature imprints are fantastic. Their spiced rum is a staple in my bar and their single malt Scotches are no joke either. Seriously, for high quality house brands, look no further than Costco. The D.C. Costco sells liquor, whereas the Virginia ones do not. Various locations around the D.C. area.

IRVING WINES AND SPIRITS. A Mount Pleasant institution, Irving Wines and Spirits is where I get most of my booze. They have a fantastic selection of aperitifs, spirits, vermouths, sake, amari and liqueurs, not to mention a comprehensive supply of all the major spirit labels. Well worth a visit, this compact store punches well above its weight and you’ll find some unique items here. 3100 Mt. Pleasant St. NW, DC; irvingwineandspirits. com // @irvingwinedc ODD PROVISIONS. Odd Provisions is fun.

It’s a neighborhood market in Columbia Heights offering fancy foods, a neat supply of cocktail fixings and a solid selection of wine.

They’ve got great cheese, too. 3301 11th St. NW, DC; oddprovisions.com // @oddprovisions

TRADER JOE’S. While we all know the Trader Joe’s house wines are pretty decent for the price, did you know the Virginia Trader Joe’s carries a whole range of house brand sherry, Madeira and vermouths? All of them are spectacular for the price. If you want to fool around with using fortified wines in cocktails, this is the place to dabble. Due to liquor laws, the D.C. locations are unable to sell the fortified wines. Various locations around the D.C. area.

By obtaining good quality tools, choosing the right spirits and learning the basic building blocks of mixology, you can start to make wonderful creations at home. You might want to look up some videos online that show basic techniques like shaking, making good ice, how to appropriately use your tools and so on. Once you have the basic tools and techniques down, the sky’s the limit for you to start experimenting and perfecting your own potent potables.

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DRINK

THE ART OF

INFUSIONS A balancing act between art + science WORDS BY LANNA NGUYEN

On the surface, cocktail infusions may seem simple: Take a fruit, spice, nut or other element and steep it in alcohol to create a layered flavor. Start experimenting and novice bartenders will soon discover infusions require a delicate balance between art and science. Get the inside scoop from some of D.C.’s cocktail pros.

It’s All About The Balance What makes for a good infusion? As is the case for cocktails, when it comes to infusions balance is key. Classic cocktails follow a recipe, and ratios provide a good blueprint for infusions. Although that may seem restrictive to the creative process, for Hakim Hamid, beverage director of Georgetown’s L’Annexe, the anatomy of a classic cocktail actually allows for greater room to play with.

“When you have a blueprint, it’s easy to figure out what you’re going to manipulate,” Hamid notes.

Using a Manhattan as an example with two parts whiskey, one part sweet vermouth and bitters, Hamid points out there is a lot of creative opportunity.

The formula is already balanced out for you, he says, so bartenders can ask themselves, “Do I infuse the whiskey or do I infuse the vermouth? Or do I omit the vermouth and do something that’s like a vermouth? Or do I split certain ratios down?”

But don’t get too carried away, Hamid cautions. He compares infusion components to that of a concert — balancing out the star singers with backup vocals. When it comes to infusion ingredients that can pack a punch, such as jalapenos, chilis and other peppers, precision is key.

“You want to make a [balanced] cocktail your whole audience will appreciate — but you also want to keep its natural profile if it’s meant to be a spicy cocktail,” says Daniel Omaña, bar manager at newly-opened Dolce Vita.

“When you infuse something spicy, you want to bring on important supporting actors,” he adds. “Bringing some liqueurs into the game, some syrups and some acid to create your recipe [helps make it] more balanced.”

The amount of time peppers and chilis steep in the alcohol also plays a role in the spice potency.

“Everything is on [a] schedule,” Omaña notes. “Every 24 hours, you just have to taste test. For something spicy, for instance, [it infuses for] maybe a max of 48 hours.”

Infusing a cocktail should enhance the drink, not overly complicate or overwhelm it.

“With classic cocktails, you want to keep the integrity,” Omaña says, referencing a riff on a paloma he created with grapefruit-infused reposado. “I’m not taking away from the classic cocktail. I’m actually enhancing the tequila with the existing qualities of the cocktail. If you want to throw parsley or some herb into the tequila and you’re making a paloma, then it’s not really a paloma.”

Neutral spirits like vodka and gin seem like a natural choice as an infusion base, but sometimes a heavier, complex spirit is required. The balance between practicality and taste at Tiger Fork beckons beverage director Ian Fletcher to lean on darker spirits for some infusions.

“Lighter spirits work better with lighter flavors (being infused) and ‘heavier’ spirits tend to hide or overpower some flavors,” he notes. “At Tiger Fork, we work with a lot of medicinal ingredients, some of which are not the most palatable on their own. We often use dark spirits to mask some of the less La Dolce Vita. Photo by Laura Chase De Formigny.

than desirable flavors from infusing. We also use mixers and fresh juices to round out flavor profiles.”

Carlos Boada, bar manager at Seven Reasons, is also drawn to more sophisticated spirits.

“I like to work with a reposado tequila, a bourbon, a mezcal,” he says. “They’ve got a little more complex body. If you know how to balance it, they bring that experience to a different level.”

Currently, five of his eight cocktails on the menu feature an infusion. Boada’s favorite? Bourbon Street — a mashup of an old fashioned and a Sazerac that gets a boost of absinthe flavor from an infusion of caraway seeds.

“I’ve been treating the bar as a kitchen,” Boada adds. “I believe making infusions just builds a different layer, a different perspective of a cocktail. You add more of an experience than a regular drink.”

Infusion Inspiration When creating infusions, Omaña works with a theme.

Whether it’s seasonal ingredients or a specific type of spirit he’s working with, the theme serves as a guide.

At Dolce Vita, he follows the lead of the coastal Mediterranean restaurant’s menu and overall aesthetic, playing up the crisp citrus notes in cocktails when he can. A recent New Year’s Eve special dubbed “Thyme’s Up, 2021” featured fresh lemon juice and mandarin, Omaña’s Italian play on a French 75 inspired by the cuisines of Italy, Morocco, Greece and Spain.

“I infused thyme and lemon peel with a gin for about 24 hours,” Omaña says of the process. “Mandarin is very prevalent all over the Mediterranean and I made a mandarin peel and thyme syrup to go along with that.”

Similarly, the cocktail program at Maïz64 looks to complement influences from the menu.

“We always find inspiration in the kitchen thanks to the variety of Mexican products such as dry chiles, herbs and spices,” notes Roberto Andraka, lead bartender at the upscale Mexican restaurant. “Working with talented chefs helps us to better understand and incorporate these flavors into our syrups and infusions.”

On the current cocktail list, you’ll find infusions working in the flavors of green tea, bougainvillea flower and spices such as cloves and pepper. With the colder weather, Andraka looks to fresh fruits like apples, guavas and oranges to complement sugar cane and spices that will play well with Maïz64’s lineup of modern Mexican fare.

At Tiger Fork, cocktails pull from traditional Chinese medicine to target various ailments.

“We infuse medicinal herbs into our cocktails, designed to have specific wellness properties,” Fletcher says. “We target pain, anxiety, fatigue or even providing an immune system boost, an aphrodisiac or detox.”

For Boada, guest experience is at the forefront when creating infusions.

“I believe infusions create different layers — a new palate,” he says. “It stays with you to bring your memory from something.”

At Seven Reasons, he hopes to spark a sense of nostalgia with different infusions and ingredients to create dialogue.

“I want to create that dynamic with the hospitality industry in the sense servers and bartenders are taking ownership and talking to those guests.”

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DRINK

Tips for the Home Bartenders What do the cocktail professionals recommend for at-home bartenders looking to level up their infusion skills? “Make a tea,” Hamid says, noting sugars or any sweeteners should come after the base of the infusion has developed. “Let something steep in water so you can figure out what that true flavor is.” Omaña recommends taking a scientific approach. That includes emptying all contents into a separate container so the flavor can properly build, weighing any herbs or additives instead of haphazardly adding unmeasured amounts and refrigerating mixtures that contain fermentable items such as fresh peppers. After that? “Always date and label,” he advises. “And then check on your infusion in 24 hour intervals. The world is your oyster with infusions. There’s so many endless possibilities with it.”

Usher in 2022 with a tasty infusion cocktail from one of five D.C. bars.

L’Annexe: 2917 M St. NW, DC; lannexe-bar.com // @lannexedc Dolce Vita: 1610 14th St. NW, DC; dolcevitadc.com // @dolcevitadc Maïz64: 1324 14th St. NW #64; maiz64.com // @maïz64 48 | WINTER 2022

Seven Reasons: 2208 14th St. NW, DC; sevenreasonsdc.com // @sevenreasonsdc Tiger Fork: 922 Blagden Alley NW, DC; tigerforkdc.com // @tigerforkdc Maïz64. Photo by Rey Lopez.

Washington’s

ZERO Low-ABV

Low-buzz indulging // page 50

Sober-Curious The lifestyles of nonalcoholic imbibers // page 52

PROOF Guide

Derek Brown D.C.’s master of “Mindful Mixology” // page 55

Umbrella Day Drinks Grab a glass, hold the booze // page 57

At-Home Bartender Infographic The anatomy of DIY mocktails // page 60

Lyre’s Lair Purveyors of premier nonalcoholic spirits // page 62

Mindful Drinking Infographic

Photo courtesy of Derek Brown’s “Mindful Mixology.”

Mapping the moderation movement // page 66

D.C.’s cocktail culture has taken an evolutionary leap over the last decade, morphing into something that better reflects the diverse tastes of drink enthusiasts — especially those choosing to dial back or abstain from alcoholic spirits. Whether low-ABV or boozefree, our guide for the sober-curious proves a good drink — and the artistry required to make it — isn’t contingent on the inclusion of liquor. In the pages that follow, we explore all aspects of the zero-proof movement. From interviews with local and national leaders to new low- and no-ABV spots opening in the D.C. area to helpful infographics to guide you along the way, we are diving into all things sober-curious. Cheers to mindful drinking!

WORDS BY NEVIN MARTELL

BUZZWORTHY

Buzz-Free, But Still

THE ZERO-PROOF GUIDE

It seems like the biggest trend in drinking these days is not drinking. Bar menus are increasingly offering thoughtfully crafted sober options billed as zero-proof, nonalcoholic, booze-less and spirit-free. There’s a burgeoning industry of NA beer, wine, spirit and bottled cocktail producers; and dry or alcohol-optional bars are popping up across the country — including three in the D.C. area. This is a big change from when Laura Silverman first got sober in 2007. Back then, the most interesting adult-oriented nonalcoholic options were O’Doul’s and the occasional mocktail, usually a brightly colored concoction that was super sweet or distractingly sour. She wasn’t interested anyway, worried they might be triggers in her recovery process.

50 | WINTER 2022

A few years ago, she began getting comfortable with the idea of booze-free bevvies, right around the time she noticed a wider and more interesting array of options becoming available.

This led the North Bethesda-based Silverman to start a pair of websites focused on nonalcoholic cocktail culture: Booze Free in DC and Zero Proof Nation. Her sites aren’t just aimed at teetotalers, but at anyone taking a booze break. “There’s a sobriety spectrum,” she says. “There are many reasons why people don’t drink — pregnancy; they’re the designated driver; a big meeting in the morning; Dry January; medical or religious reasons; they’re training for a marathon; they’re straight-edge or in recovery. So, you might not drink tonight or the rest of your life, or anything in between.”

Photo courtesy of Derek Brown’s “Mindful Mixology.”

DRINK

A Burgeoning Booze-Free Market Though adult-friendly nonalcoholic beverages have obvious appeal for the sober serious, the sober-curious are becoming their largest consumers. According to a study released last year by data and market measurement firm Nielsen, 78% of nonalcoholic beverage buyers are also purchasing alcoholic beer, wine or spirits. Overall in 2021, nonalcoholic beverage sales increased 33% to $331 million, while online sales of nonalcoholic and low-alcoholic beverages increased by an astounding 315%.

Marcos Salazar, CEO of the newly formed The Adult NonAlcoholic Beverage Association estimates there are now over 100 independent adult-focused nonalcoholic beverage producers — such as Lyre’s, Athletic Brewing Company, Dry Botanical Bubbly, Ritual Zero Proof — as well as more traditional brands producing nonalcoholic alternatives as a part of more diverse portfolios.

“There’s been a general shift over the last decade of people wanting to be more mindful and conscious about how they live their lives,” Salazar says. “The pandemic had an impact as well. People have taken a step back and are reevaluating their relationship with alcohol.”

Silverman sees the appeal of these drinks blossoming after people age out of their hard partying twenties.

“People are looking for something that has the same flavor profile and excites the palate,” she says. “And for those people who want the same experience without the consequences. It’s still sexy, it’s still fun, but you wake up without a hangover.”

Disco Mary Does Sober-Curious Maria Bastasch is betting on the sober-curious at her hippy futurist Disco Mary pop-up at the Columbia Room. Offering an array of spirit-free “immaculate concoctions,” all of them can be fortified with booze (read our cover story on page 22).

Her partner in the venture is the Columbia Room’s owner Derek Brown, who is also her boyfriend. The award-winning mixologist and cocktail historian underwent a transformational relationship with alcohol several years ago after confronting his bipolar depression.

“I had failed to address mental health issues and alcohol in my life in a substantial way,” he says. “I came to the conclusion I couldn’t drink anymore. Now I’m a mindful drinker.”

While working at the Gibson around 2008, Brown made his first nonalcoholic cocktail: an orgeat lemonade from a recipe in Jerry Thomas’ foundational cocktail book “How to Mix Drinks or The Bon-Vivant's Companion,” published in 1862. From then on, NA cocktails became a part of his repertoire.

“I was never like, ‘Oh my god, you don’t drink? F--k that!’”

Brown says. “I always saw it as an exciting opportunity to make great drinks.”

In 2020, he got more serious about nonalcoholic cocktails, deciding he needed a guiding theory on how to make one. What separates it from juicy mocktails, unconventional lemonades and fancy sodas?

“A cocktail has an intensity of flavor, that’s a critical component,” he says. “It has a piquancy, which is the bite. And there’s volume; they’re not just lemon and sugar.”

His philosophy is codified in his recently published book, “Mindful Mixology: A Comprehensive Guide to No- and LowAlcohol Cocktails with 60 Recipes.” He was filled with doubt about how people would look at a bartender who was now proselytizing nonalcoholic beverages. “[I’ve already] told everyone to drink well,” he says. “Now what was I going to tell people? I’m not against drinking alcohol, but I do think people often use it for the wrong reasons [like] I did. My goal became to offer people a choice.”

The Social While Sober Equation Sam Kasten aims to offer a choice to anyone looking to go out without having alcohol be part of the social equation.

In February, she opened Umbrella Dry Drinks, a pop-up nonalcoholic bar and bottle shop in Alexandria’s Seedling Collective space. Sober for over three years, Kasten is aiming to open a permanent location in Alexandria by summer.

Her menu focuses on nonalcoholic plays on well-known cocktails, such as a zero-proof Gold Rush employing Spiritless Kentucky 74, a bourbon alternative, lemon juice and honey shrub, and a G&T riff made with Seedlip Garden 108 and cucumber tonic water. The goal is to offer next-level options.

“A nonalcoholic cocktail is sophisticated, elevated,” she says.

“It’s served in a beautiful, intentional glass with a nice garnish.

And it has an interesting flavor profile that gives you the experience of a cocktail, just without the alcohol.”

This spring, Gigi Arandid plans to roll out the coyly named Binge, a booze-free bar on the H Street corridor. Sober since 2017, she is currently testing out recipes for spirit-less cocktails.

“It has to be transportive and take you to a place you’ve never been before,” says Arandid, who served a cherry bomb spritzer with blueberry conserve at the bottom at a recent pop-up. “It’s about not being afraid to use new textures and flavors.”

The space will be designed to be experiential with a mural from painter-designer (and recent District Fray cover star) Chris Pyrate, moss-covered wall and a growing cabinet featuring ingredients for drinks and dishes. A gallery area and stage will offer local artists and musicians a space to showcase, while the compact kitchen will turn out light bites focusing on vegan fare.

These probably won’t be the last dry bars in D.C. region either. Additionally, expect to see a flood of new nonalcoholic options in bars, online and on the shelves at the local liquor store. Going forward, sober-minded drinks are going to be a permanent part of the landscape.

“I think it started as a trend,” says Silverman, “but it has grown into a movement.”

Binge Bar: 506 H St. NE, DC; @_bingebar_ Booze Free in DC: boozefreeindc.com // @boozefreeindc Disco Mary at Columbia Room: 124 Blagden Alley NW, DC; discomary.com // @findingdiscomary Umbrella Dry Drinks: @umbrelladrydrinks Zero Proof Nation: zeroproofnation.com // @zeroproofnation

DISTRICT FRAY | 51

THE ZERO-PROOF GUIDE

SOBER-CURIOUS 101 I quit drinking in 2007 because I was on a fast track to total destruction. I had only just turned 24 and my life felt over without the so-called magic elixir of alcohol (so dramatic, I know). But I had to stop, even if it seemed impossible. I didn’t have a road map or guide — Dry January didn’t start in the U.K. until 2011 and didn’t hit the American mainstream until a few years ago. All I knew was that I had to change.

It didn’t happen overnight and it wasn’t always easy, but the decision to get sober was the most solid and beautiful choice I’ve ever made. I vowed to help light the path for others who want to get sober-serious or sober-curious, and to give them resources and 52 | WINTER 2022

WORDS BY LAURA SILVERMAN

options that weren’t available to me at the start of my journey.

Maybe this is your first “dry” month or you routinely take breaks from the booze. Or, maybe you have a family member or close friend who doesn’t drink much (or at all) and you want to alternate between, well, leaded and unleaded bevs. However you find yourself, you’re here and you want to know what the heck everyone is talking about when they utter words like sober-curious, mindful drinking or Dry January.

From a glossary of terms and a roundup of local and national heroes to lists of books, bottle shops and bars (without the booze, of course), consider this your sober-curious 101.

Zero-Proof Glossary Sober-Curious: A term coined by Ruby Warrington; curiosity about how and if alcohol serves one’s life anymore; cutting back or cutting out booze due to health/wellness reasons; questioning alcohol culture; being a scientist in one’s life and experimenting with nonalcoholic beverages as a replacement for boozy ones to see how one feels in body, mind and spirit.

Mindful Drinking: Paying attention to the amount of alcohol

D.C.’s Local Heroes of the Sober-Curious World Ashish Alfred, booze-free chef + founder of Duck Duck Goose (D.C., Bethesda + Baltimore) @chefashishalfred Gigi Arandid, founder of Binge Bar, D.C.’s first booze-free bar (opening in 2022) @__bingebar__ + @bingeongigi

consumed; being intentional, curious, and mindful about reasons why we drink can result in experimenting with sobriety for a period of time.

Dry January: A one-month alcohol-free challenge started in the U.K. by nonprofit Alcohol Change UK in 2011 that has since grown to a global movement for people who want to start their year with a healthy reset.

National/International Heroes of the Sober-Curious World Shea Gomez, founder of No Booze Babes @noboozebabes

Khadi Olagoke, founder of Sober Black Girls Club @soberblackgirlsclub

Mille Gooch, founder of Sober Girl Society @sobergirlsociety

Ruby Warrington, author @rubywarrington

Annie Grace, author @thisnakedmind

Holly Whitaker, founder of Tempest and author @holly // @jointempest

Chris Marshall, founder of Sans Bar @sans_bar

Laura Willoughby, Dru Jaeger + Jussi Tolvi, co-founders of Club Soda @joinclubsoda

Maria Bastasch, founder of Disco Mary + beverage director at Maydan + Compass Rose @findingdiscomary

Booze-Free Bars in the U.S. + Beyond

Derek Brown, founder of Columbia Room // Drink Company + author @ideasimprove // @columbiaroom

Getaway Bar in New York City thegetawaypgh.com // @getawaybar

Sam Kasten, founder of Umbrella Dry Drinks, Alexandria’s first boozefree bar (opening 2022) @umbrelladrydrinks Lauren Paylor, founder of Focus on Health, trainer at Safe Bars, + R+D at Silver Lyan @lpdrinksdc Anna Welker, mixologist/bar manager at Hotel Revival in Baltimore + inspiration for Hyatt’s new Zero-Proof, Zero- Judgment menus across the country @annavonshans Follow more of these local sober-curious IG accounts: @dmvwithoutcompromise by Mike Shipp + Emily Pazdernik, Athletic Brewing @mission_mocktail by Vera Rosenthal @teetotalingdc by Meredith Raimondi @thenahappyhour by Chris Riley + Tyler Barker @zeroproofnation by Laura Silverman

Coast Dry Bar in Chicago, Illinois coastdrybar.com // @coastdrybar

Listen Bar in New York City listen.bar // @listenbar

Ocean Beach Cafe in San Francisco, California oceanbeachcafe.com // @oceanbeachcafe Sans Bar in Austin, Texas (original) + St. Louis, Missouri thesansbar.com // @sans_bar Wildcrafters in Jacksonville, Florida @wildcraftersjax

Not to mention international spots Brunswick Aces (Australia and New Zealand), Redemption Bar (the UK), The Virgin Mary Bar (Ireland), Eden Bar (Ghana) + more.

Top Sober-Curious Books

1.

“Sober-Curious: The Blissful Sleep, Greater Focus, Limitless Presence, and Deep Connection Awaiting Us All on the Other Side of Alcohol” by Ruby Warrington

2.

“The Sober Lush: A Hedonist’s Guide to Living a Decadent, Adventurous, Soulful Life — Alcohol Free” by Jardine Libaire and Amanda Eyre Ward

3.

4.

5.

6.

“The Dry Challenge: How to Lose the Booze for Dry January, Sober October, and Any Other Alcohol-Free Month” by Hilary Sheinbaum “Quit Like a Woman: The Radical Choice to Not Drink in a Culture Obsessed with Alcohol” by Holly Whitaker “This Naked Mind: Control Alcohol, Find Freedom, Discover Happiness, and Change Your Life” by Annie Grace “How to Be a Mindful Drinker: Cut Down, Take a Break, or Quit”

by Dru Jaegar, Anja Madhvani, Laura Willoughby and Jussi Tolvi

There are hundreds more (Sarah Hepola, Laura McKowen, Augusten Burroughs, Mishka Shubaly, Catherine Grey, Anna David are phenomenal writers) but this gives you a taste of what’s out there.

Ruby Warrington. Photo courtesy of subject.

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THE ZERO-PROOF GUIDE

Booze-Free Bottle Shops to Order From Alena Botanica: alenabotanica.com // @alenabotanica Better Rhodes: betterrhodes.com // @betterrhodes Boisson NYC: boisson.nyc.com // @boisson.nyc Drink No and Low: drinknolow.com // @drinknolow The Open Road Bar + Bottle Shop: openroadbarpgh.com Sechey: sechey.com // @shopsechy The Zero Proof: thezeroproof.com // @thezeroproof And with all the bottle shops that are brick and mortar only (Sipple, Spirited Away, etc.), this category is zooming full speed ahead. Coming along for the ride?

Top Low- or No-Alcohol Recipe Books “All Day Cocktails: Low (and No) Alcohol Magic” by Shaun Byrne and Nick Tesar “Good Drinks: Alcohol-Free Recipes for When You’re Not Drinking for Whatever Reason” by Julia Bainbridge “Mindful Mixology: A Comprehensive Guide to No- and Low-Alcohol Cocktails” by D.C.’s own Derek Brown “Mocktail Party: 75 Plant-Based, Non-Alcoholic Mocktail Recipes for Every Occasion” by Diana Licalzi, MS, RD, CDE + Kerry Benson, MS, RD, LDN “Zero-Proof Drinks and More: 100 Recipes for Mocktails and LowAlcohol Cocktails” by Maureen Petrosky “Zero-Proof: 90 Non-Alcoholic Recipes for Mindful Drinking”

by Elva Ramirez

We’d love to see what kind of fun alcoholfree drinks you create/find or any selfdiscoveries you make this month. Feel free to tag @boozefreeindc and @districtfray so we can join you in #DryJanuary and beyond.

FROM TOP. Ashish Alfred. Photo courtesy of subject. Gigi Arandid. Photo by Tony Powell.

Dry Out with

Derek

Brown’s Designer

NA Cocktails WORDS BY COLLEEN KENNEDY

The mastermind behind the Columbia Room, a previous designee of “Best American Cocktail Bar” by the Spirited Awards, Derek Brown has just authored his second book devoted to the craft of the American cocktail. In “Mindful Mixology: A Comprehensive Guide to No- and Low-Alcohol Cocktails with 60 Recipes,” he rewrites the script of cultural expectations by delivering mouthwatering concoctions that deliver style and taste without a hangover.

“Mindful drinking is a very straightforward concept, as in ‘mind the gap:’ being aware of what you’re drinking and why you’re drinking,” Brown says. “If you’re drinking on automatic then you’re eventually going to have a problem.”

In the introduction of his latest work, which will be published this month, he shares a brief but candid discussion of reevaluating his own drinking habits.

“Mindful drinking is the goal and ‘Mindful Mixology’ is the tool,” he says.

Photos courtesy of Derek Brown’s “Mindful Mixology.”

His mindful-drinking toolbox includes 60 recipes ranging from seasonal delights to happy hour classics. More importantly, it reconceptualizes drinking responsibly and with meaning.

“Some of the drinks are simulacrum and others provide an entirely new perspective.

But the greatest part of all of this is liberating cocktails from alcohol so individuals have the tools to drink them with or without alcohol,” Brown says.

In between the recipes of “Mindful Mixology” are interludes from bartenders, health experts and distillers about the meditative practices behind making liquors, selecting ingredients, slowly sipping and more.

Brown’s book is a wonderfully balanced mixture of a recipe book, historical text and introductory bar guide with suggestions for tools, drinking glass styles and mixing methods. In the vein of exploring the history of American cocktail culture, “Mindful Mixology” builds upon Brown’s first published work, “Spirits, Sugar, Water, Bitters: How the Cocktail Conquered the World.”

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THE ZERO-PROOF GUIDE Ever the historian, Brown offers an unsavory etymology for “cocktail” that will make you think twice the next time you see a horse swishing its tail prettily. He even turns to archives and old newspapers, adapting from temperance recipes from the Prohibition Era as the starting point for many of his nonalcoholic (NA) offerings.

“A lot of skills that proliferated over the last decade have been hard-won by bartenders who focus on the craft of cocktails and look back at traditional techniques,” Brown shares. “It’s time for nonalcoholic cocktails to regain their crown. There isn’t a difference in my mind. It wasn’t different for early bartenders who included both alcoholic, non- and low-alcohol recipes in the same book — and they weren’t self-conscious about it.”

Just don’t call them “mocktails.” These are not merely standins for the real thing, but delectable libations that stand on their own. Brown anatomizes and analyzes the components of a classical [sic] cocktail to show that intense aromas and flavors, a rich texture, an astringent bite, and overall style are the qualities that make a cocktail — not the amount of stiff liquor in the glass.

“I’m trying to show that nonalcoholic drinks can be just as sophisticated, sexy and have just as much gravitas as an alcoholic cocktail,” he says. “We are in such a great, albeit nascent, period of good nonalcoholic spirits, beers and wines.

I hope in addition to enjoying these drinks at home that bartenders serve people who haven’t yet tried NA cocktails and entice a new audience to try great craft cocktails.”

Many of these old-fashioned NA cocktails and his contemporary adaptations, Brown points out, have less in common with a Shirley Temple or Roy Rogers and more in 56 | WINTER 2022

common with, well, an Old Fashioned.

There are fruit juices, purees and syrups galore, but there are also splashes of vinegar or soy sauce, various brewed teas, egg whites, garlic and beef broth poured into mixers and glasses.

There is even a take on D.C.’s official native cocktail with sour cherries complementing the punch of lime juice to create a piquant Cherry Lime Rickey. For wintertime, try either the Twelfth Night Cider or the spicy bouquet of cloves, ginger and spices in the Lion’s Paw (a NA version of a bourbon-centered drink called The Lion’s Tail).

There are originals, too, such as the mouth-puckering Pinch Hitter composed of lemon juice, apple cider vinegar, ginger syrup for heat, aquafaba (chickpea water) for weight, a pinch of salt and lemon garnishes.

“It’s ostensibly a lemonade in some ways, but it’s much more complex than that,” Brown says.

Even sans alcohol, the 60 recipes offered in “Mindful Mixology” are nonetheless spirited and a perfect way to mindfully enjoy the best of American cocktails.

“Mindful Mixology: A Comprehensive Guide to No- and LowAlcohol Cocktails with 60 Recipes” is available from Rizzoli Press wherever books are sold. Follow Columbia Room on Instagram @​​columbiaroom and Derek Brown on Twitter @ideasimprove.

Columbia Room: 124 Blagden Alley NW, DC; 202-316-9396; columbiaroomdc.com // @​​columbiaroom

S TAY D RY THIS JA N UA RY UNDER SAMANTHA KASTEN’S

Umbrella WORDS BY TRENT JOHNSON

THE ZERO-PROOF GUIDE Over the past three-plus years, Samantha Kasten hasn’t been shy about her sobriety. From Instagram posts cataloging alcoholic alternatives to her recent attempts to burgeon the booze-free scene in the DMV, Kasten has discovered a burning desire to explore the world of low- and no-ABV cocktails and other forms of pseudo-booze.

“When I finally got sober, it took me some time to open up about it,” she says. “Eventually, people began reaching out to me about their own struggles. Through that I found a community which has led to me meeting so many people through Instagram.”

Kasten says the booze-free community on social media is so robust that it inspired her to develop her own business built around the idea of providing quality alcohol-free drinks for everyone, whether they’re sober or not. Just this past December, before the holidays, Kasten introduced people in Alexandria to her passion project: Umbrella Dry Drinks.

“I came up with this idea where people can find a place to come and congregate with others,” she says. “It’s more common now to find people who have a story like me. You don’t have to suffer through rock bottoms and it’s really cool that the [sober] community has grown so much where people can learn more 58 | WINTER 2022

about themselves and about nonalcoholic options.”

Though in its infancy, Kasten has lofty goals for her project — all of which stem from her primary goal to enlighten, educate and entertain via masterful concoctions.

A Large Umbrella Kasten describes sobriety as a large umbrella and says, “No matter where you are under that umbrella, you belong.” She started her own journey into the world of sobriety after several years of heavy drinking, which began when she moved from Northern Virginia to Charleston for college. There, she fell deep into the party scene. She initially decided to cut alcohol out of her life following a DUI in 2016, but it took her several years to climb firmly onto the wagon. On January 2, she celebrated her three-year anniversary of sobriety.

“I’ve been very open about it,” Kasten says.

This year, in the midst of the seemingly ongoing and neverending pandemic, Kasten took her desire to learn more about alcoholic alternatives to the next level by enrolling in a 10-week course led by Sans Bar Founder Chris Marshall, a nationallyrecognized leader in the sober-curious movement. The academy classes were Kasten’s first foray into mixology — unless you

count the extremely short stint when she was a bartender in her early 20s (author’s note: she doesn’t).

“I wasn’t very good [then],” Kasten laughed. “To be honest, I don’t know that much about bartending. I have always been a very creative person, so I’m able to come up with interesting combinations. When I drank I didn’t even really drink cocktails; I drank bourbon neat. I think that’s why I’m more interested in it now. It’s more about the process and enjoying a drink you put time and effort into.”

What she lacks in traditional experience, she makes up for with infectious enthusiasm.

Kasten cares deeply about the plight of folks who are sober but want the feeling of camaraderie that drinking can provide. It’s a social aspect that can be difficult for people in search of an alternative.

“Sometimes there’s still a stigma with people who don’t order drinks out,” she says.

“I’ve sometimes left it to chance and let a bartender prepare a mocktail, but it’s nine times out of 10 just a jumble of sodas and syrups.”

Despite only one pop-up under her belt, which was held at Mint Collective in Alexandria and featured her take on a hot spiced cider and a Dry 75 (her version of a French 75), Kasten is already looking toward her next steps. She says she’ll be hosting another pop-up in January, though the location is still TBD, and hopes to eventually house Umbrella Dry Drinks in its own brickand-mortar.

“It’s been about a month,” she says candidly. “I’m not far into it, but I’ve already connected with so many people. Everyone deserves a good drink, whether or not you’re drinking alcohol. This is the concept I landed on when figuring out how I could do more with my sobriety and my story.”

Alcoholic Adaptations Kasten’s first experience with the types of events she eventually plans to curate herself occurred at King’s Ransom, led by local DMV mixologist Jon Schott. Since this “explosive realization,” she has encouraged people in her own life to explore the possibilities of alcoholic alternatives.

“If you hand someone a drink and say it’s nonalcoholic, people are going to have a preconceived notion of it being bad,” she says about the stigma.

To curb this, she suggests approaching nonalcoholic cocktails you try with an open mind. Even if the drink is intended to replicate the flavor of a traditional Old Fashioned or Manhattan, it is key to approach the beverages with a curious mindset.

Photos courtesy of Samantha Kasten.

“Start with something that resembles a basic drink,” Kasten says. “I’d suggest a mule because ginger beer has such a strong flavor itself. Go toward mocktails you’re familiar with, but again, go in with an open mind and know it won’t be the same because it’s not supposed to be the same. Think about how you’ll feel after the fact.”

Social media has played a huge role in connecting with others over the course of her sobriety journey, and she suggests Instagram as a great place to identify recipes worth trying. Even if you experience a less than stellar taste with your first one, there will always be another to try.

“Go in without expectations but know there are many good options out there and the first one might not be your favorite,” she says. “Look for good resources and try again.”

For some, Dry January marks the only time this year they will opt for alcoholfree versions of their favorite drinks. Others will continue to rely on the passion of people like Kasten, who have sacrificed large portions of their lives to continue building the lexicon of robust low- or no-ABV drink alternatives year-round.

“I thought of the concept in the middle of the night and knew what I wanted to call it and what I wanted to do,” she says. “The whole time I was taking the [Sans Bar] class, I didn’t know what I wanted to do. Now that I do, I’m diving right in.”

For more information about future pop-ups and other news, follow Umbrella Dry Drinks on Instagram @umbrelladrydrinks.

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THE ZERO-PROOF GUIDE

release your inner zero-proof bartender ILLUSTRATION BY AMANDA WEISBROD D.C.’s own Disco Mary and Binge Bar serve up booze-free realness with their creative nonalcoholic concoctions. Try these recipes at home to see for yourself just how delicious zeroproof cocktails can be.

The Evolutionary

By Disco Mary

INGREDIENTS - 1oz. wild lettuce tea (double-steeped) - ½ oz. chinotto syrup - 1¼ oz. lemon juice - ¾ oz. agave syrup - For garnish: nasturtium leaf

STEP-BY-STEP

1 Add ingredients (except garnish) to a shaker.

2 Add ice to the shaker and shake vigorously.

3 “Herbal, bitter and bright, The Evolutionary is the best example of the intersection between herbalism and mixology.”

- Maria Bastasch, founder of Disco Mary

Strain liquid into a 5.5–7.5 oz. cocktail glass.

4 Garnish with nasturtium leaf and enjoy.

60 | WINTER 2022

You Matcha Keep Floatin’ On!

By Binge Bar

INGREDIENTS - 3 scoops matcha green tea ice cream - 1 shot rosemary + basil simple syrup - SIP CLEAN rosé wine or white blend - For garnish: lavender buds, slapped rosemary + cinnamon stick

STEP-BY-STEP

1 Place 3 scoops of matcha green tea ice cream into a margarita glass.

2 Pour a shot of rosemary and basil simple syrup into the glass.

3 Garnish with lavender buds, slapped rosemary and cinnamon stick.

4 Fill glass halfway with SIP CLEAN rosé or white blend.

5 “The explosion of flavors and aroma once you scoop the bottom of the glass is every inner child’s wildest dream.”

- Gigi Arandid, owner of Binge Bar

Proudly gaze at your creation and enjoy with a spoon.

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62 | WINTER 2022

THE ZERO-PROOF GUIDE

Make It A Lyre’s WORDS BY LAURA SILVERMAN Given all the reasons people might have had to drink during the pandemic, the nonalcoholic beverage industry’s profits skyrocketed in 2020 and 2021. In the past year alone, nonalcoholic sales totaled more than $330 million, according to a recent Forbes article. Confined to couches, people started exploring ways to drink without the buzz — and Lyre’s NonAlcoholic Spirits led the way.

Lyre’s founder Mark Livings says he started Lyre’s in 2019 “with a bold mission: to change the way the world drinks.”

“Our global success has shown there’s incredible demand for premium nonalcoholic drinks,” he says.

At first, Lyre’s was only available in Australia where the company is based.

But by 2020, the spirit could be found in the U.S., Europe and Canada. The booze-free spirit company then made inroads in the Middle East and parts of Asia the following year.

With such an international and cosmopolitan “spirit,” it’s no surprise that “D.C. has been at the forefront of the Lyre’s story,”says Maria Denton, Lyre’s southeast regional manager.

Lyre’s, founded in Sydney, recognized Washington, D.C. as a global and innovative pioneer in cuisine driven by a vibrant immigrant culture and saw the potential for a strong partnership with DMV-area Clyde’s Restaurant Group (CRG), which eventually allowed Lyre’s to plant their flag in the nation’s capital.

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64 | WINTER 2022

THE ZERO-PROOF GUIDE

David Moran, director of operations at CRG’s Old Ebbitt Grill, says he’s seen the saloon’s cocktail lists evolve to include more and more nonalcoholic options over the past 10 to 15 years.

“There are lots of people who choose not to imbibe for various reasons and these kinds of drinks have given everybody a chance to still enjoy a festive beverage with everyone else at the table,” he says.

With spirits and canned ready-to-drink (RTD) cocktails both vegan and gluten free, Lyre’s product range speaks to the main propellor of the no and low movement: healthconscious millennials who drink less or choose to not drink at all. You want an Old Fashioned? Check. What about a Negroni? Check. Espresso Martini? Check. Margarita or Paloma? Check and check.

“The pace of growth we’re seeing is exceptional. We sold our first bottle in 2019 and today we’re selling one at least every 30 seconds,” Livings says. “On our current trajectory, Lyre’s is set to become the fastest independent beverage brand to reach Unicorn status [when a privately held company is valued at $1 billion].”

Lyre’s has made such a global splash they are the official spirit of this year’s Dry January. Started in 2013 by nonprofit Alcohol Change UK with 4,000 participants, this booze-free month-long challenge now has millions of participants and is ubiquitous with beginning the new year fresh as a way to reset the body and mind. Livings says, “We believe it is part of our role to educate and showcase the wide range of options available, whether people want to stop or moderate.”

Classic

Margarita 45 mL Lyre’s Agave Blanco Spirit or Lyre’s Agave Reserva Spirit

Method: Shake briefly with ice. Fine strain into glass.

15 mL Lyre’s Orange Sec

Glass: Half salt-rimmed cocktail coupette

1 dash orange bitters (Laura’s pick: All the Bitter, 0% ABV)

Menu

on the

Clyde’s Restaurant Group ˙ Old Ebbitt Grill ˙ Hamilton Tombs ˙ 1789 ˙ Hank’s Oyster Bar ˙ Estuary at The Conrad Hotel Columbia Room // Disco Mary ˙ Lib’s Grill in Maryland

Lyre’s

Pink

Cosmo , D.C.-Style

Ingredients

Ingredients

7.5 mL white sugar syrup (1:1)

Lyre’s

with

Calvert Woodley ˙ Addie Bassin’s ˙ McArthur Beverages ˙ Vitis Fine Wines and Spirits ˙ Wine Source in Maryland

Lyre’s

30 mL lime juice

Spots

London

Stores Carrying Lyre’s:

Local

Garnish: Lime wedge

45 mL Lyre’s Pink London Spirit

Method: Hard shake with ice, fine strain.

15 mL Lyre’s Orange Sec

Glass: Coupette

15 mL lime juice

Garnish: Orange zest

30 mL cranberry juice 7. 5 mL premium cherry syrup Lemon twist (place inside shaker)

Buy direct via Lyres.com and get 15% off your order with this promo code: ZEROPROOF15. Every order comes with a free mixology workshop.

FIRST PAGE. Tommy’s Margarita. THIRD PAGE. Paloma. Photos courtesy of Lyre’s Non-Alcoholic Spirits.

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THE ZERO-PROOF GUIDE

Mindful Drinking for the Sober-Curious ILLUSTRATION + WORDS BY AMANDA WEISBROD Ever since Dry January was introduced to the U.S. in 2013, the sober-curious movement has grown from a niche community to a full-blown cultural shift. But what does sober-curious even mean? And how exactly does one practice “mindful drinking?” Find the answers to these questions and learn more about where the nonalcoholic beverage industry has been and where it’s headed below.

Tips + Tricks for Mindful Drinking hit pause + reflect Without judgment, ask yourself about the intentions behind your desire to drink. Is this what you really want right now? Or are you giving in to impulse?

$1.7 trillion

make a game plan ahead of time

2028

If you’re planning to drink alcohol at a gathering or what not, decide what and how much you’ll drink before you go so you can keep yourself accountable.

$963 million

order your drink first

2020

Place your booze-free drink order first and your friends might even follow suit! This also alleviates the pressure to say “I’ll have what they’re having” due to social norms.

The Zero-Proof Market Grows

savor every sip Take the time to drink slowly and enjoy all of the intricate flavors of your beverage, alcoholic or otherwise. If you don’t like what you’re drinking, then don’t drink it!

Fior Markets, a market analyst company, reports that the non-alcoholic beverages market is expected to increase by 200% over the next 6 years.

Say “Goodbye” to Binge Drinking Percentage of adults surveyed who reported binge drinking within the past 30 days.

Binge drinking, i.e. consuming more than four alcoholic beverages in one sitting, is detrimental to one’s health and well-being. But the percentage of adults who have said they’ve had an episode of binge drinking within the last month is on a steady decline, lending weight to the sober-curious movement.

40

18 to 25 years of age

31% 18+ 26+

2015

24% 23% 20

2016

2017

2018

2019

2020*

*NOTE: SAMHSA’s data collection method changed in 2020 from previous years because of the coronavirus pandemic. The data for 2020 is an estimate based on data procured in Q1 and Q4 of that year; actual data from Q2 and Q3 is not available.

66 | WINTER 2022

Just How Sober-Curious Are We? Breaking down Google search trends provides insight into what people are interested in at any given moment, and in our case, we’re focused on the sober-curious movement. Each graph below measures the popularity of search terms compared to its most popular moment (100) versus times when its popularity is so low there isn’t enough significant data to map out (0). When mapped together, the data of all terms is compared to the highest moment of popularity out of all terms, resulting in different perspectives on the numbers.

Week of March 8: Coronavirus shutdowns begin in the U.S.

mindful drinking (n.)

The practice of being intentional, curious, and mindful about the reasons why one drinks and how much alcohol one consumes.

100 50 0

sober-curious (adj.)

The state of being curious about how and if alcohol serves one’s life anymore while questioning the expectations of alcohol culture.

zero-proof (adj.)

A description of spirits, cocktails, ales and other drinks that feature little to no alcohol often crafted to imitate alcoholic beverages.

Jan. 1, 2021

Jan. 1, 2020 Week of March 8: Coronavirus shutdowns begin in the U.S.

100

This graph shows the relative popularity of Google search trends for mindful drinking, sober-curious and zero-proof compared to one another each week from January 1, 2020 to December 31, 2021.

50

0

Jan. 1, 2020

Jan. 1, 2021

This graph shows the relative popularity of Google search trends for mindful drinking, sober-curious and zero-proof compared to one another each month from January 1, 2015 to December 31, 2021.

Weekly data breakdown from this time period is featured in the chart above.

100 50 0

Jan. 1, 2015

Jan. 1, 2020

Jan. 1, 2021

Sources: 2020 National Survey on Drug Use and Health published by Substance Abuse and Mental Health Services Administration; “What Is Mindful Drinking? How It Can Help Your Mental Health” by healthline.com; May 2021 Market Forecast by fiormarkets.com; Google trends data; “What does it mean to be sober-curious?” by verywellmind.com.

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MUSIC LOOKING FORWARD

THE CLUB AT STUDIO K EMBRACES FUTUREFACING ARTISTS + AUDIENCES

WORDS BY NICOLE SCHALLER

MUSIC When walking up to the Kennedy Center’s large gold columns, it is natural to feel intimidated. While strikingly gorgeous and immediately demanding respect, it is easy to think it’s an institution exclusively for well-established classical artists and aficionados. However, this would be a misguided perception.

Since The REACH addition opened in 2019, the Kennedy Center has actively worked to create a more inclusive and experimental space for audiences and modern artists — including through The Club at Studio K series.

“The Club at Studio K represents an institutional commitment to advancing our vision and goal of serving as the 21st century performing arts organization,” says Kennedy Center Director of Hip Hop Culture and Contemporary Music, Simone Eccleston. “We see it as an opportunity for audiences to see the Kennedy Center as a destination where they can experience the very best in contemporary music and culture.”

From February 10 through the end of March, The Club at Studio K will return after a Covid-forced two-year hiatus to host artists in comedy, jazz, hiphop and cross-genre music. To kick off the series, Grammy-nominated artist Christian Scott aTunde Adjuah will open with a two-night performance.

Adjuah is the progenitor behind stretch music, an extension of jazz. He plans to debut new music at Studio K, which ventures into new territory for Adjuah of Delta Blues music.

“Half of what we’ll play is completely new,” Adjuah says. “I am really excited about it because this is going to be one of the first performances where audiences will be able to hear some of the newer music we’re developing for the upcoming records.”

As a two-time Edison Award winner, Adjuah constantly innovates not only the music he composes and produces but the physical instrument itself.

While most of us were binge-watching whatever Netflix suggested during quarantine, Adjuah was creating and producing four new records which will all be released this year — as well as inventing a new instrument.

“I have my own line of trumpets, but I decided I wanted to create a 21st-century corollary to a West African double-sided harp,” Adjuah says about his process of patenting the new harp called the Adjuah Bow, which he’ll play during his Studio K performance.

Nationally renowned artists like Georgia Anne Muldrow, jazz singer Laurin Talese and saxophonists Mark Turner and Immanuel Wilkins are set to take the stage at Studio K, as well as DJ nights from Black Girls Rock. Along with music, the series is packed with comedy performances including D.C acts like Washington Improv Theater and Story District, as well as comedians Cristela Alonzo, Natasha Leggero and Megan Stalter, each headlining a night of emerging women comedians.

When describing the ethos behind the lineup

selection Eccleston explains, “There is a curatorial vision for us to represent voices we think will propel us forward. All of the featured genres and disciplines are future-facing. And so that will always represent a dynamic mix of local and national.”

An exciting addition to The Club lineup includes two events from Issa Rae’s production company HOORAE. As part of their inaugural takeover at the Kennedy Center, HOORAE will close out The Club series with “pieces,” a stripped-down concert from undisclosed artists, and a networking party the following night.

“Our entire weekend of HOORAE events is going to be incredible but I am personally excited for ‘pieces,’” Davis says. “Live music is my favorite thing, and I’m a huge fan of this year’s performing artists, which we will be unveiling soon. Past performers have included Jazmine Sullivan and Teedra Moses and this event is being presented in partnership with Frequency, Spotify’s home for Black expression.”

Due to Studio K being only able to hold approximately 300 people compared to the 2,465 seats in the Concert Hall, each performance during The Club will provide a unique and intimate experience.

Eccleston elaborates, “This is about pulling back the layers and allowing audiences to have really meaningful and engaging experiences.”

And the feeling is mutual for the artists.

“We all like to play concert halls, but there’s nothing like being 20 feet away from someone and being able to see how what you’re expressing is affecting them,” Adjuah says. “There’s some synergy between what we are experiencing onstage and what the audience is experiencing. It’s like a conversation. If I’m having the conversation with you from 30 feet away, that will feel different than if I’m having a conversation with you only two feet away.”

With the selection of top artist performances, dance parties and interactive opportunities, there is something for everyone to enjoy in this series and it is all packaged in an inviting, inclusive space.

“We are creating a sense of home by offering an opportunity to feel invested in the Kennedy Center and The Club at Studio K space,” Eccleston says.

“We want audiences to take ownership and feel this is where they can come and see their favorite artists.

This is a place where they can come and have a transformative experience.”

The Club at Studio K begins on February 10 through March 26. To learn more about the series, view the full lineup and purchase tickets, visit kennedy-center.org/reach/studio-k-club.

Studio K at The John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts: 2700 F St. NW, DC; 202-467-4600; kennedy-center.org // @kennedycenter

Christian Scott aTunde Adjuah’s “Ancestral Recall” cover. Photo courtesy of the Kennedy Center.

DISTRICT FRAY | 69

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CULTURE

CUE THE LIGHTS | CULTURE Being a man can be tough (hear me out, and high blood pressure. But the best comedians find ways to transform their pain women). Yes, we are the beneficiaries of into art. Mychael often jokes about his mental and physical health journey in his patriarchy, but with that privilege comes acts. a prison. There’s an expectation that “You can’t smoke weed with diabetes,” Mychael says in his 15-minute comes along with “masculinity.” Men of “Quarantine Comedy Special.” “You end up doing weird things, like searching all ethnicities have been taught to suppress your medicine cabinet for Doritos. I was like, ‘How you gonna do a drug that our humanity so we can subscribe to an increases your heart rate? Then I started to think, ‘So do ham sandwiches.’” unhealthy form of masculinity.

Mychael gave up the drugs — and the ham sandwiches — for a coldBut the reality is: Men have emotions that turkey pursuit of sobriety for over two years now. He credits his success aren’t always Herculean. We’re vulnerable, battling anxiety to a process that strikes fear in the hearts of even the most too, and sometimes when no one is looking, we testosterone-filled men: therapy. even sweat from our eyes. Thankfully, more men “I’ve learned to stop taking things so personally and caring so much about are now speaking out against toxic masculinity. what other people think,” Mychael says. “I realized seeking validation is a Among these brave new leaders of vulnerability is trap because you’re trying to fill something that’s empty on the inside of you.

D.C.-based standup comedian Von Mychael.

When you don’t know what that something is, you start to fill the emptiness The Virginia native is a regular at DC Improv, a with the wrong things.” six-time winner of Funny Bone’s Clash of the Comics Therapy not only changed Mychael mentally but physically, too. competition and a two-time winner of Amateur Night Aside from being drug- and alcohol-free, Mychael went on a fitness at the Apollo. He released a self-produced “Quarantine journey during the pandemic and lost over 40 pounds. His new Comedy Special” in 2020 and in 2021, he created his mindset began to bleed into his work as well, as he began posting own live sketch comedy show — “The Von Mychael daily affirmations on his Instagram account — a tool he learned Sketch Show” — at the DC Comedy Loft. from therapy.

But what Mychael is most proud of is his success His openness and vulnerability highlighted an intrinsic respect battling his ongoing anxiety. for his humanity. Witnessing it encouraged me to deal with my “Anxiety’s different for everyone, but for me it feels like own fears and anxieties.

I can’t think,” Mychael says. “It feels like the world is going “Affirmations are important because you get to validate to end and I get that intense scatterbrained feeling of not yourself,” Mychael says. “They may feel weird at first but trust knowing what to do next.” me: They work.”

Ironically, Mychael’s anxiety was brought on by his passion: In 2021, Mychael put those affirmations to the test. He standup comedy. Like most new comedians, when Mychael created his own sketch comedy show, “The Von Mychael performed for the first time he bombed, and it was a serious hit Sketch Show,” where he creates original comedy sketches to his confidence. If you’ve never done standup comedy before, and weaves them into a show with live standup comedy let me assure you it’s not for the faint of heart. It takes thick skin acts from popular comedians like Jason Weems, Kasaun to go onstage and tell jokes to complete strangers, knowing at any Wilson and Franqi French. Mychael’s comedic success given moment the audience can turn. doesn’t mean his battle with anxiety is over, however.

It’s hard not to take it personally because you’re not just “When I dropped the flyer for the first sketch show, I presenting a joke. You’re presenting a piece of yourself, so the felt so much self-doubt that I stayed in bed for almost rejection feels personal. It’s this dynamic that can lead comics on a two days thinking, ‘Who do I think I am?’ But then I misguided hunt for external validation. realized those are the feelings we’re meant to push “The entertainment industry is a tough business,’’ Mychael says. through.”

“I found myself seeking approval from people and comics and would Mychael’s desire to seek out help and willingness literally get panic attacks because I felt I needed to please everybody.” to express his emotions equipped him with the tools As his comedy career began to pick up, Mychael began touring across the to brave the journey and help others along the way. country opening for actor and comedian Jamie Kennedy — but everywhere “Whenever I feel my anxiety creeping up now, I he went, his anxiety followed. While on the road, he was introduced to the try to identify the source and find a solution. At the entertainment industry’s solution: drugs and alcohol. least, I just keep going because I know I’m going to “I started smoking weed and drinking to self-medicate,” Mychael says. feel better afterwards. Watch my confidence soar “I would drink a little before going onstage just to take the edge off, but when if I don’t give up.” you’re doing shows almost seven nights a week it adds up.”

It wasn’t until his parents came to a show that Mychael realized he needed to make a change. After witnessing his self-destructive behavior, his father (who is six years sober) sat him down.

To see more of Mychael’s “He warned me to be careful because nobody becomes comedy, follow him on an alcoholic overnight — it’s a slow process,” Instagram @vonmychael Mychael says. “I was using drugs and alcohol where you can purchase to cope with everything, so I decided to get DC Comedy Loft: tickets to “The Von sober.”

1523 22nd St. NW, Mychael Sketch Show,” The decision couldn’t have DC; 202-293-1887; hosted monthly at the come at a better time because dccomedyloft.com // DC Comedy Loft.

Mychael was diagnosed @dccomedyloft with type 2 diabetes DISTRICT FRAY | 71

LIFE EXPLORING

EVEREST National Geographic Museum opens Mount Everest-focused exhibit in February.

WORDS BY ABI NEWHOUSE

72

LIFE Deep in the National Geographic Museum you’ll find yourself on Mount Everest. In a hallway, projected video lines the walls showcasing hundreds of yellow tents at base camp, ridges of mountains contrasted with an open sky, and bodies climbing up and up and up. 36 speakers play sounds of storms, explorer’s voices and boots on snow. You feel cold but you’re just immersed in a far-off, high-up place in one of the most extremeweather locations our planet has to offer.

The “Once Upon a Climb” exhibit features this footage of National Geographic’s scientific expedition to Mount Everest in 2019. A team of more than 30 international scientists, including geologists, geographers, biologists, glaciologists, meteorologists and mapping experts gathered to analyze and understand our changing planet.

On the expedition, the scientists mapped the Khumbu Glacier, studied the highest ever ice core (found at about 8,000 meters above sea level) and installed the highestever weather station at 8,400 meters — only 400 meters below the summit.

“The exhibit gives you an idea of what the high mountain environment in the Himalayas is like,” Alex Tait, geographer and cartographer for National Geographic says. “You’re experiencing it a couple of different ways: the climbing of the mountain historically, the science work we did and sections about the local Sherpa community.”

Viewers get to see how Mount Everest was discovered as the tallest mountain in the world, how it was named and how fascination with summiting the mountain began. It tells the stories of famous expeditions like Mallory and Irvine, the first successful summit by British explorers and the first successful summit by Americans.

Topographical maps, interactive activities and walls lined with gear from the past to present are on display.

National Geographic focuses on locals telling their own stories instead of sending reporters. The Sherpa community of Nepal is featured heavily throughout the exhibit, as they supply permits, provide knowledge on the local environment and culture and help people from around the world on their climbs.

“We do our best to limit our footprint where we can,” Executive Director of National Geographic Museum Kathryn Keane says. “That’s a big part of why we’re so dependent on relationships with local communities and local cultures, and also why we only want to go in with a large expedition when there’s a lot to learn. We don’t want to just explore for exploration’s sake; we want to explore with a purpose.”

The exhibit ends highlighting just how stressed Mount Everest is. 2019 was one of the busiest climbing seasons, which paradoxically is a triumph and a failure. The mountain is littered with thousands of pounds of trash — and sadly, due to too many permits, inexperienced climbers and the weather, bodies of climbers who stayed in the “death zone” (above 8,000 meters) for too long.

The ice core pulled at 8000 meters has microplastics and industrial carbon in its top layers. The effects of climate change are hitting the mountain hard.

Mount Everest, Nepal. Photo by Mark Fisher, National Geographic.

“It’s losing an amazing amount of ice per year,” Tait says. “And they’re predicting that one-third to one-half of all the glacial ice in the high mountain Asia region will be gone by 2100. They’re at the forefront of climate change.”

It can be difficult to see the world as interconnected when we’ve tried to tell ourselves we’re separate for so long — we draw boundaries, then fight over those boundaries — but climate change doesn’t see our made-up lines.

“In D.C., we’re not incredibly affected by climate change,” Tait says. “But talking to the older people in the Sherpa community and what they remember about the mountain environment and how different things are — their physical environment has already changed a lot.

They don’t have to study it; they already know.”

Mount Everest fuels a lot of the Sherpa community’s economy from permits and guiding trips. The mountain gives back to them too, providing the community with water from glacial runoffs. So, the Sherpa community is faced with another human paradox: They need money from permits to keep their economy running — but giving out too many permits is harming the mountain they rely on.

Right now, there is an excess of water as the glacier melts but one day, there won’t be any more.

“There’s this irony that Everest is this big foreboding, seemingly impervious geological structure and yet it is quite fragile,” Keane says. “It’s in everyone’s best interest to care about the changes that are happening there.”

“Once Upon a Climb” allows visitors to understand more about the interconnectedness of our world. Every step we take affects our planet, whether in Rock Creek Park or on the ridges of Mount Everest, and it’s often the people in extreme weather zones that suffer the most.

“As a geographer, I’m always encouraging people to understand the connections,” Tait says. “As the seasons change, we start seeing things change in the environment — different birds, different flowers. It’s about starting to learn about the interconnectedness of the human world and the natural world.”

Tait says it was easy to see the changes when visiting Mount Everest. He’d look at a picture of the glacier twenty years ago and compare it to the rock outcroppings bursting through the glacial flow in front of him.

“That was all new to me,” Tait says. “But also, all that same stuff is happening here. You just need to start looking at what’s right in front of you.”

The National Geographic Museum opens their doors for the “Once Upon a Climb: Stories of Everest” exhibit on Wednesday, February 16. Nat Geo will also present “The Greatest Wildlife Photographs” exhibit, which features notable wildlife photography over the years.

National Geographic Museum: 1145 17th St. NW, DC; 202-857-7700; nationalgeographic.org // @natgeomuseum

DISTRICT FRAY | 73

FUN | CROSSWORD

COCKTAIL CULTURE COMPILED BY AMANDA WEISBROD

D.C.’s cocktail culture is not only full of noteworthy bars and exceptional bartenders, but also a rich Prohibition history. The city is overflowing with unique, artisanally crafted cocktails — both alcoholic and zero proof — with more created each day by master mixologists. Test your knowledge of the District’s hottest cocktail bars, most influential people in the scene and rich mixed-drinks backstory in the crossword below. If you get stuck, check out the answers here.

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ACROSS 2. At The Ritz

25. This famous American author visited 29 across in 1967

3. “Shaken, not stirred” cocktail 7. A groovy place to grab a booze-free cocktail

27. Poe’s favorite watering hole 29. D.C.’s oldest saloon

11. Closing time

33. Bar with directional instructions

13. An Okay Place To Be 15. Called “the city’s ugliest statue,” this D.C. fountain is one of 50 in the nation raised during prohibition to encourage drinking water rather than whiskey

34. D.C. Cherry-blossom-themed cocktail __ Highball

51. Section of Pennsylvania Avenue that was home to D.C.‘s greatest bars from the early 20th century to the 1980s 53. Sister to 14 down 55. Famous Spanish chef and owner of 6 down 56. Pilsner-inspired D.C. punk band 57. D.C. hotel bar Silver __

35. Yo-ho-ho and a bottle of __

60. Balkan fruit brandy

16. Art deco liquor bar

38. Local llama-themed distillery

61. Tri-colored feline rooftop bar

19. (Captain) __ Hall

39. Sidewalk chalk game

62. A place for reflection

20. Ahab’s on high alert here

41. D.C.’s official cocktail

64. Head bartender at 57 across

21. 2017 Greta Gerwig film

42. Parched avian

65. Bar inspired by a hotel in Queens

22. Instruments of the Olympians

47. Cellar of The Imperial, Dram & __

23. Immersive cocktail experience by the headless horseman

49. Brittany on “Glee” & D.C. American bar

DOWN 1. Founder of 7 across

31. Explosive beach bar

4. Chant in a mirror three times for a scare

32. Laura Silverman’s organization

5. __ & Tonic

36. Smoky agave-based spirit

6. Small saloon

37. Alcohol-free

8. Bar that depicts the story of Ruby Bridges

40. Riding shotgun

9. Windsors would visit here

43. Can’t see RGB

10. French addition bar

44. Colloquially known as “The Green Fairy”

12. A cluster of islands

45. Middle Eastern cocktail bar in Adams Morgan

13. Not to be quoted

46. Trailblazing platform in D.C. enabling bartenders of color to showcase their talents

14. Beer festival named after a bird-reptile chimera featured in German folklore

48. Culinary-inspired cocktail flavor trend

17. “Lights, camera, action” bar

50. 36 down D.C. festival

18. America del Sur-inspired bar at Yours Truly

52. Sipping with intent

23. 41 across was first served at this bar in 1883

54. Bar with two first names

24. Bar featuring hangover cure “The Breakfast of Shaw”

58. Brazilian mojito featured at Rumba Cafe

26. President when prohibition began

59. Banana-infused Manhattan found at 42 across

28. Famous Black bartender in pre-Prohibition D.C.

62. Lean bar

30. Mardi Gras city themed bar

63. Highway for D.C. bootleggers

NOTE: Check districtfray.com for the answer key.

Photo courtesy of Derek Brown’s “Mindful Mixology.”

IN OTHER WORDS

TARA ROBERTS DIVES “INTO THE DEPTHS” A Nat Geo Storyteller’s journey to uncovering sunken slave ships.

WORDS BY NICOLE SCHALLER Back in 2016, when the National Museum of African American History and Culture first opened, National Geographic Storyteller Tara Roberts came across a photograph of Black scuba divers on the second floor that piqued her curiosity.

“It was this huge picture of Black people in wetsuits on a boat,” Roberts recalls, noting in hindsight her imagination exaggerated the photo’s size. “They were primarily Black women who looked like superheroes to me. They were standing on this boat with their fists balled up on their hips. It was like they had capes flowing in the wind. There’s something really majestic and amazing to me about that photograph.”

When something sparks Roberts’ interest, she dives all in.

76 | DECEMBER 2021

IN OTHER WORDS “I was like, ‘Who are these people?’” Roberts recalls. “Then I went to look at the words around the picture, which said they were part of this group called Diving with a Purpose that dove for slave shipwrecks around the world. And I was like, ‘That’s the most amazing thing I’ve ever heard in my entire life.’”

In her initial research, she learned an estimated 500 slave ships wrecked during the Transatlantic slave trade. Of that estimate, less than 10 have been found. Roberts reached out to the founder of Diving with a Purpose, Ken Stewart, to see if the nonprofit she worked for at the time could help fund their efforts. While the grant did not work out, the connection was made — and Roberts’ dedication to their mission was solidified.

As someone who already loved to swim, she began to take diving classes in D.C., eventually quit her job and applied and got a grant with National Geographic to cover the stories of the sunken slave ships and the divers working to uncover them globally. Now, Roberts is sharing her reporting through a six-episode podcast series “Into the Depths,” which launched January 27.

We caught up with Roberts to get a behind-the-scenes look at the making of the podcast, the importance of uncovering slave shipwrecks and why it matters that Black divers, historians and archeologists are leading the mission to uncover this part of history.

District Fray: What insights did you gain from your travels and reporting?

Tara Roberts: When I started, I did not know that 1.8 million Africans died in The Middle Passage. Not five people, not 10 people, not 1000 people. 1.8 million Africans died and there’s nothing honoring them. It’s just a footnote in some history books — and it’s not in most. That to me is a tragedy. There’s a whole bit of history that has not been explored, examined and shared. It’s an embarrassment for what’s taught in U.S. history that I didn’t learn East Africa was a part of the slave trade. I thought it was only West Africa. But learning of the found ship in Mozambique, which went around the horn of South Africa and then on to the Americas, creates all kinds of questions of ancestry and connections.

Where did your reporting take you?

Mozambique, South Africa, Senegal, Benin, Togo, Costa Rica, Saint Croix, and then to Florida and Alabama. It’s all places where work was happening, to either find or document a ship.

Why is it important to focus on other aspects beyond the diver’s stories?

One of the reasons the ships themselves are important in the story is that there’s something about having the material evidence which can’t be denied. And that’s what has happened so often. Inside of these kinds of stories, it’s easy to say, ‘No, no, no, it didn’t happen. That’s wrong. That’s a lie’ But when you have the evidence, it changes things.

How did you organize the podcast since there are so many facets to this story?

It was hard [laughs]. The podcast is structured around three elements. One is the ships, so there’s a ship in each episode.

It’s also the divers, so understanding their work and their connection to this history. And then there’s my arc and story of how I changed as a result of embarking on this journey.

How so? How did you change?

I didn’t realize I had a wound inside of myself around my avoidance of history until I was forced to face it on this journey.

It’s Black folks’ pain and trauma. Looking back at history was traumatizing to me and embarking on this journey gave me another way to intersect with the past that wasn’t traumatizing — it was strength-building. It finally made me curious in a way I’d never been about whether I could trace my own roots back to a slave ship. I ended up hiring a genealogist to see how far back I could go, which empowered me to embrace my own story and find pride.

Who is your audience?

Anyone with an interest in history. The global slave trade is an event in history that involves four major continents.

Economics from the slave trade created modern-day economics.

It’s the way we have built wealth in this country. The reason America is a “leader” in the world is because of the wealth that was built in.

What would you like people to take away from the podcast?

There’s this huge myth Black people don’t swim and Black people are afraid of water. We go into deep detail about this in episode four. Black folks have a long aquatic history that has been erased from time. Way back in the 14th and 15th centuries, West Africans were free diving. They were being called on by other countries to help salvage ships that sunk. We’ve been sold this incorrect bill of sales making us think that’s not our heritage. We belong in the ocean. Our past is hidden on the bottom of the ocean floor. The water is a part of our legacy. This body of water sustains us as a planet and that is under threat right now. Having more Black and brown folks who care about the ocean is something I hope comes from this podcast.

Listen to “Into the Depths” on all major streaming platforms starting January 27. Learn more about Tara Roberts by visiting her website at tararoberts.me or following her on Instagram at @curvypathtara. Learn more about other National Geographic Explorers at nationalgeographic.org/society/our-explorers.

Favorite podcast: I’m a big fan of Sam Sander’s “It’s Been a Minute;” I also love Krista Tippett’s “On Being,” “Hidden Brain” and my friend Lydia’s “SpaceTimeMusic.” Must-stop place for when you visit D.C.: Calabash Tea & Tonic — love that place. Best traveling tip: Put it all in one carry-on bag. Makes life so much easier. Best personal find when diving: I didn’t find this, but I saw a yellow snake burrowing in the sand in Mexico and it totally freaked me out; and a giant turtle that was as big as me in Thailand. Coffee or tea: Definitely tea — especially rooibos and chai. Favorite time to dive: Night! It’s actually spooky and a little scary then, but I dig it.

Advice for first time divers: Relax and remember to breathe.

DISTRICT FRAY | 77

PLAY

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PLAY

riends in D.C. are always surprised to hear I didn’t grow up snowboarding, skiing or ice skating even though I lived in northern Utah. Sure, I went to the occasional birthday party at the local ice rink where I held on to the edge and shuffled like a clumsy penguin while friends yelled, “Let go! You can do this!” But other than that, I didn’t pay much attention to winter sports. They were something that other people did. Until high school when I visited my favorite swimming hole in the winter, I didn’t realize we even had natural ice. A few of my classmates had set up goals and they played hockey while I cringed, imagining them all falling through the ice and into the murky pond water. Suffice to say, I’m one of those people who claims they know things about skating when I don’t actually know much about it at all. I was thrilled to have the opportunity to speak with Alissa Strawcutter, a skate instructor at Pentagon Row and MedStar Capitals Iceplex, for some tips for anyone just starting out — or for those in denial, like me.

1. Start with figure skates.

3. Consider your posture.

I’ve always gotten mixed reviews when it comes to starting with figure skates or hockey skates, but Strawcutter put an end to the debate.

“The blade is longer on the figure skates, which provides more stability,” Strawcutter says.

“Figure skates also have the toe pick in front and that helps people when they fall. People can dig those into the ice to help push themselves back up.”

Having tried both, figure skates also feel tighter and more secure. You’re already wobbly on the ice, so you don’t want to also feel wobbly in too-big skates.

Strawcutter also recommends helmets (especially for kids), gloves and even snow pants. She says if you want to buy your own skates, don’t get cheap ones from somewhere online. You want to actually try them on.

MedStar Iceplex sells skates and does fittings and sharpening if you’re in the market.

“Bend at your knees, not at your hips,” Strawcutter says. “And keep your back straight.”

Strawcutter says many people begin to hunch because they’ll watch their feet, which automatically shifts your weight forward, throwing off your balance. Instead, she says you want your posture to look almost like you’re sitting in a chair. This keeps your weight evenly distributed so there is less chance of falling.

“Don’t look at your feet,” Strawcutter says.

“Think about what your feet are doing. Look forward to the path in front of you.”

This advice was especially helpful at Pentagon Row on a Saturday night when the rink was somewhat crowded. It’s natural to want to watch your feet in this new environment but doing so signals a strange caution to your body — and could also result in collision with other novice skaters.

When I kept my eyes up, knees bent and back straight, I felt a security I didn’t know was possible on the ice. I could skate faster with confidence.

2. Your limitations are often psychological.

“If you can get over that mental aspect and just let your body go with the flow,” Strawcutter says, “you’ll do a lot better.”

Science about the “flow state” is gaining traction in the athletic world. You’ve likely felt it at some point — the strange and lovely hypnotic feeling when you let your mind wander and your body take over.

I visited Pentagon Row to put Strawcutter’s advice to the test and while I’ll admit I started my first couple of loops hanging onto the wall, when “Heat Waves” by Glass Animals came on the rink’s playlist I wondered if singing the lyrics in my head might distract me enough.

“A lot of times, if I’m doing a private lesson I start talking to try and distract the students,” Strawcutter says.

I thought if I could talk to myself about anything but what my body was doing, I might be able to flow. And you know what? It worked.

I let go of the wall, skated to the beat and forgot about analyzing my body’s every move. It was freeing.

4. Get the falling part over with.

The biggest mental block in skating, at least for me, is the idea of falling. It’s happened to me before and while it’s not terrible, it’s not fun either.

Falling forward, knees slamming down on the hard ice — it’s no wonder new skaters are afraid.

“You want to try to fall to one of the sides,” Strawcutter says. “And obviously avoid falling on your head.”

When you fall, instead of trying to get up from your back like an overturned beetle, get on all fours. Bring one foot up, make sure it’s secure, then put one or two hands on your knees and rise. Strawcutter practices this method with her students.

“Once they fall, they realize it’s not so bad,” Strawcutter says. “I’ve never had anyone get hurt from falling.”

While I totally agree with getting the fall out of the way, I do have to brag because thanks to Strawcutter’s other advice, I didn’t fall once.

This is actually huge for me. And I think it’s possible for you, too.

FIRST PAGE. Pentagon Row. THIRD PAGE. The Wharf. Photos courtesy of rinks.

RINK RUNDOWN

Interested in putting this advice to the test? Here are a few rinks in the District that are open until the end of February, some going into March. Almost all the rinks offer lessons for adults and kids if you’re interested.

Canal Park Outdoor Ice Skating

This rink has a few loops that make you feel a lot more professional than you are. Right on M Street and near a few different restaurants in Navy Yard, this location is sure to provide a lovely winter evening out. 200 M St. SE, DC; canalparkiceskating.com // @canalparkdc MedStar Capitals Iceplex (Indoor Arena) If you’re curious about the Iceplex mentioned in the article, feel free to visit this arena yearround. You can take lessons, buy equipment and skate whenever you feel like it. 627 N Glebe Rd. Suite 800 Arlington, VA; medstarcapitalsiceplex.com // @medstarcapitalsiceplex

DISTRICT FRAY | 79

Pentagon Row Outdoor Ice Skating The ice rink I visited sits between a few different restaurants, which allows for the perfect night out. Do some skating and then get some coffee from Origin or a few buns from Bun’d Up. 1201 S Joyce St. Arlington, VA; pentagonrowskating.com // @pentagonrowskating Silver Spring Outdoor Ice Skating Rink A large outdoor rink with a colorful lighted roof in the beautiful downtown area of Silver Spring, this rink hosts lessons for kids and adults, as well as open rink time. And it’s even open on holidays. 8523 Fenton St. Silver Spring, MD; silverspringiceskating.com // @silverspringiceskating Washington Harbour Ice Rink An ice rink created where a fountain is in warmer seasons, this circular rink adds one more event to all Georgetown has to offer.

Get into the flow as you skate along the Potomac River surrounded by city lights. 3050 K St. NW, DC; thewashingtonharbour.com/ ice-skating // @washingtonharbour The Wharf Ice Rink “It’s the only over-water ice rink,” Julie Keleti, marketing and communications manager for The Wharf, says. “Since it’s located on Transit Pier, you can see the waterfront views and the monuments.” Every Wednesday in January 2022, the Wharf Ice Rink will host Curling and Cocktails, another fun way to get out on the ice. 970 Wharf St. SW, DC; wharfdc.com // @thewharfdc

80 | WINTER 2022