5 minute read

IN THE KITCHEN WITH

In the Kitchen with Jeremy Williamson

The Southern-born chef has a background in fine dining but is loving being in the family-friendly environment of Blue Collar’s restaurants. by Allison Arthur photos by Ashley Merritt

AS Jeremy Williamson explains Where his love of food began, he starts by saying, “Most people mistake Southern food for soul food.” I immediately know what the Georgia native means, since I am from South Carolina.

He means eating corn and tomatoes, but only in the summer season and preferably when you just picked them in your backyard. Collard greens, fried okra and black-eyed peas, either grown in your garden or at the farm down the road, and cooked as a family effort. He’s talking my language.

Besides having pure Southern roots, which are a good indication that quality ingredients are the star of the show, Williamson, 37, grew up in a family of avid cooks. “We cooked every meal,” he says. He also had the advantage of being close friends and neighbors with Chinese and Vietnamese families who exposed him to diverse ethnic cultures early in his life.

All of these factors propelled him along a path that took him across the country as he worked his way up from earning a degree in hotel and restaurant management; to leading many fine dining restaurants; to eventually landing in Jackson Hole. Williamson moved to the valley to be the executive chef at Caldera House. “The first time I stepped foot in Wyoming was for my interview,” he says.

Last summer, Williamson’s jiujitsu partner and Blue Collar founder Joe Rice saw the passion he has for the industry and recruited him to be the culinary director of his restaurant group. Now overseeing and hoping to improve upon what he respectfully refers to as a “great foundation and a loyal following,” Williamson is gently updating menus and methods at the group’s six (and soon to be seven) establishments in Jackson Hole.

NOODLE KITCHEN’S ASIAN GREEN BEANS

1 pound green beans (blanched and shocked) 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 tablespoon ginger, julienned 1 tablespoon garlic, chopped 1/2 tablespoon sugar Salt to taste Soy sauce to taste Crispy garlic, for garnish

> Blanch the green beans in a pot of boiling water until they are slightly softened. Drain and add to a bowl with icy water to stop the cooking. Drain and set aside. Heat a sauté pan over mediumhigh heat, then add oil and heat until it’s lightly shimmering and/ or smoking. Add garlic and ginger and cook until fragrant, being careful not to burn them. Add green beans and sauté until combined. Finish the dish by stirring in the sugar, salt and soy sauce. Cook until dry and soy sauce is caramelized. Serve hot and garnished with crispy garlic.

WHAT ATTRACTED YOU TO THE POSITION?

The Rices are super family-oriented, and it is incredible how much they take care of our community. I tell our teams, “The grass is greener” here.

WITH SO MANY MENUS AND STAFF SPREAD OUT AT DIFFERENT SPOTS, DO YOU STILL GET TO COOK IN THIS NEW ROLE?

One of the things I like about working here is it is always something different and a new place to go. I work the line at different spots at least two nights a week but have a lot more family time than I used to. It is the only way to teach, and many chefs forget about that when they move up. You have to love it — if you don’t, it will kill you.

YOU HAVE A BLUE BELT IN JIUJITSU. WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO WITH THAT?

I want to win the world title in Las Vegas. It is a hard goal, but I want to do it. It is a great outlet to help me stay super relaxed. You go beat up or get beat up a couple times a week.

BUT WHAT ABOUT THE RESTRICTIVE DIETING YOU HAVE TO DO TO BE JUST ON THE EDGE OF YOUR WEIGHT CLASS. THAT HAS TO BE HARD FOR A CHEF?

Honestly, when I want to lose weight, all I do is cut out a glass of milk at night. What people don’t know is that most chefs don’t eat on a shift. You get really sick of looking at all of it.

SO WHAT DO YOU EAT ON DAYS OFF?

Cooking at home is easier with three kids. My favorite breakfast is bacon and a quad latte.

AND WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE SPOTS FOR DINING OUT IN JACKSON?

Local, [Everest] Momo Shack, and Streetfood at the Stagecoach. At Blue Collar, Noodle Kitchen is at the top of the list, and even before I worked here, I used to come to Sidewinders [American Grill] with my family.

WHAT IS YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE?

Fast food. I ate at Wendy’s yesterday. My career has been in fine dining for a really long time, and when you eat the best beef tenderloin and lobster and the nicest of things, you crave something comfortable and quick and easy.

THIS IS WHERE YOU AND I DIFFER FROM OUR SOUTHERN CONNECTION. HOW CAN YOU CRAVE THAT LOWER QUALITY WHEN YOU KNOW THE BEST?

Chefs want junk food and want to be cooked for. I don’t know how to explain it, but it pulls on a certain need or want in your body.

LASTLY, WHERE DO YOU SEE THE FUTURE OF DINING IN JACKSON HOLE GOING, AND HOW DOES BLUE COLLAR FIT INTO THAT?

I am an advocate for change, especially in Jackson Hole. I think our off-seasons are going away. I think we are going to see wellknown names or restaurants opening here, and I hope we can continue to offer that local familiarity at our restaurants and keep growing.

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