Hancock-Washington-Penobscot Counties

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Maine’s History Magazine Volume 28 | Issue 6 | 2019

15,000 Circulation

Hancock~Washington~Penobscot Counties

Birds Of Downeast Maine Wonderful wild wings

The SS Kronprinzessin Cecilie Visits Bar Harbor Germany’s treasure ship

Moosehead’s Walter Arnold

Maine’s legendary trapper

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Hancock-Washington-Penobscot Counties

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Inside This Edition

Maine’s History Magazine 3

I t Makes No Never Mind James Nalley

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Birds Of Downeast Maine Wonderful wild wings Fred Hartman

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Castine’s Ethel S. Noyes The memory lingers on Wilson Museum Staff

11 The SS Kronprinzessin Cecilie Visits Bar Harbor Germany’s treasure ship

James Nalley 18 The World Of Virginia Chase Perkins Remembering the author from Blue Hill

Charles Francis 22 Transporting The Wealthy To Bar Harbor Railway trail recalls elegant time in Hancock

Brian Swartz

Southern & Coastal Maine

Publisher & Editor Jim Burch

Layout & Design Liana Merdan

Advertising & Sales Manager Tim Maxfield

Advertising & Sales Jennifer Bakst Dennis Burch Dan Coyne Tim Maxfield

28 Jonesport’s William Wallace Clark Survived the Petersburg ‘turkey shoot’

James Nalley

Field Representatives

32 Thelma Eye And Her Wartime Service From The Memoirs of Thelma Eye

as told to Evangeline Hussey

Office Manager

36 Lincoln — Home Of State Champions

Mattanawcook Academy’s 1943 & 1996 victories

submitted by “Bing” Sturgeon & John Norris 40 Bangor’s Soldiers’ Monument Wind-stirred battle flags astonished a Bangor editor Brian Swartz 45 History Of The Winterport Dragway

by Andrew Cook 50 M oosehead’s Walter Arnold Maine’s legendary trapper

John Murray 56 Spencer’s Rescue Cheating a West Branch logjam

Kenneth Smith 59 Tales Of The Maine Woods The lumber villages at Grand Falls Connee Jellison 64 The Bard Of Exeter The poems of David Barker

Charles Francis 68 Murder Will Out Tragedy in Guilford and Parkman

Charles Francis

William Landmesser James & Diane Nute Liana Merdan

Contributing Writers Andrew Cook Charles Francis Evangeline Hussey John Murray James Nalley

John Norris Kenneth Smith Bing Sturgeon Brian Swartz Wilson Museum Staff

Published Annually by CreMark, Inc. 10 Exchange Street, Suite 208 Portland, Maine 04101 Ph (207) 874-7720 info@discovermainemagazine.com www.discovermainemagazine.com Discover Maine Magazine is distributed to town offices, chambers of commerce, financial institutions, fraternal organizations, barber shops, beauty salons, hospitals and medical offices, newsstands, grocery and convenience stores, hardware stores, lumber companies, motels, restaurants and other locations throughout this part of Maine.

NO PART of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from CreMark, Inc. | Copyright © 2019, CreMark, Inc.

SUBSCRIPTION FORMS ON PAGE 37 & 70

Front Cover Photo: Leonard E. Hurlburt in Whitneyville.

Item # LB2005.24.21825 from the Boutilier Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org All photos in Discover Maine’s Hancock-Washington-Penobscot counties edition show Maine as it used to be, and many are from local citizens who love this part of Maine.

Photos are also provided from our collaboration with the Maine Historical Society and the Penobscot Marine Museum.

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It Makes No Never Mind

by James Nalley

B

y the time of this publication, the influx of tourists will have congested the roads and lengthened the lines at the local lobster roll shacks. However, although most of the attention is placed on seafood, it is important to note that the wild blueberry is a signature product of Maine.

As stated by Laurie Schreiber of the Island Institute, “Maine’s wild blueberries started out 10,000 years ago as a scrappy survivor in the nutrient-deficient sandy plains left behind by the receding glaciers.” Eventually, marketers found ways to promote blueberries as the “antioxidant superfruit” and use them in everything from wine to facial products, which is far more impressive than simply using them for pies, muffins, and pancakes.

This is nothing new, considering that blueberries were frequently used by early Native Americans. According to David Yarborough at the University of Maine’s School of Food and Agriculture, “The berries, both fresh and dried, were used for their flavor, nutrition, and healing qualities.

They were also useful as meat preservatives, thanks to their naturally occurring, antimicrobial compounds that inhibit bacterial growth.” By the mid-1800s, residents

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were regularly gathering blueberries in the barrens of Washington County. Blueberries were even canned and distributed among the Union troops during the U.S. Civil War. Eventually, “quick-freezing” and “color-sorting” methods dramatically improved blueberry sales across the country.

Blueberries are also grown on a twoyear basis, in which half of the land is used to encourage growth, and the other half is used for the August harvest. As stated by Yarborough, this approach has resulted in “higher yields per acre, and fewer acres in production.” For example, in the 1950s approximately 150,000 acres produced 10 million pounds of blueberries, whereas in the 1970s, only 60,000 acres produced 20 million pounds. Moreover, due to improvements in fertilizers, irrigation, and pollination, blueberry prices have dropped for the consumers.

Interestingly, Maine was once the largest producer of blueberries in the country.

However, other geographical regions, such as Canada, California, and Washington, wanted their share of the market. As a result, Maine currently produces only 10 percent of the country’s blueberry supply. In this regard, it is important to buy local.

Finally, for those who prefer blueberry pies, muffins, pancakes, there is one major

option in this region. It is the annual Machias Wild Blueberry Festival (August 16-18), which includes Celtic music, puppet/magic shows, arts and crafts, the Blueberry Quilt Raffle, a blueberry pancake breakfast, as well as a blueberry dessert buffet.

On this note, let me close with the following blueberry-themed jest: A lady in a grocery store asked a stock boy, “Do you have any blueberries?” He replied, “Sorry ma’am, we’re out of blueberries, but we’re getting some tomorrow.” The lady left and a few minutes later she asked where the blueberries were. The confused stock boy said, “Sorry, ma’am, we’re out of blueberries, but we’re getting some tomorrow.”

The lady left and returned to ask, “Where the heck do you keep the blueberries?” The frustrated stock boy said, “Answer a couple of questions and I will get you some blueberries from the back.” The lady agreed.

He then said, “Spell CAT, as in catwalk,” after which she spelled the word. Then he said, “Now spell DOG, as in dogma,” after which she spelled the word. Then he said, “Now spell FREAK, as in blueberries.”

She replied, “There’s no FREAK in blueberries,” after which the stock boy said, “THAT’S WHAT I’VE BEEN TRYING TO TELL YOU ALL ALONG!”

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Birds Of Downeast Maine

by Fred Hartman

D

Wonderful wild wings

owneast Maine is one of North America’s 25 most important bird areas, according to a consortium of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, National Geographic, and other conservation organizations. Downeast Maine is the place in the eastern United States where one can see northern birds, neat mammals, and whales. For good birding, you may want to focus on the Washington County towns of Pembroke, Edmunds, Dennysville, Trescott, South Lubec, Whiting, Cutler, East Machias, and Machias. There are a number of conservation lands (public and private) in these towns.

One of Roger Tory Peterson’s doz-

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en birding hot spots was Mount Desert Island (MDI). Some birders refer to MDI as the warbler capital of the United States. Actually, many places in Downeast Maine could be so classified.

Ref. Harrison, G. M. 1976. Roger Tory Peterson’s Dozen Birding Hot Spots.

Simon and Schuster. NY. NY. 288pp.

John James Audubon visited Downeast Maine on one of his art/ornithological expeditions when he was headed to Labrador in the mid-1800s.

He stayed at the Lincoln House in Dennysville. While in Maine he wrote of lumberjacks and moose hunting.

He sailed from Eastport on the small schooner Ripley heading to Labrador.

He visited Grand Manan. Audubon was impressed by gannets and guillemots.

Ref. Rourke, Constance. 1936. Audubon. Harcourt, Brace and Co., Inc. NY. NY. 342pp.

Moosehorn National Wildlife Refuge was established by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service in Washington County in 1937. Like other refuges across the country, it was to facilitate the migration of waterfowl. Also, Moosehorn was to be specifically for research and management of the American Woodcock. Much usable biological and ecological information about woodcock has come from that refuge.

Unfortunately, in recent years the U.S.

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com Fish and Wildlife Service has failed to properly manage Moosehorn. Thus, its woodcock efforts are zero and a number of important wildlife wetlands have been destroyed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

With over three hundred species in the area, birdlife here changes throughout the year and is available to everyone for observing in their natural habitats from ocean to wetlands to mature northern forests. Spring and summer birds provide cheerful songs and offer easy observing in spring before leaf out by mid-May. Springtime breaks eternal in Maine. Marshes green up and tree buds swell slowly. Each tree has its own timing. Aspen, birch, and maple are first. Ash, beech, and oak come a bit later. All the while migrant birds are moving north into Downeast Maine.

Each species or group has its arrival time. Blackbird groups and robins are most often first. Woodcock plop in the

latter part of March. Songbirds arrive through April and May. Swallows start looking for nesting houses and sites in late April. Everybody’s favorite, ruby-throated hummingbirds are here by the end of the first week in May and have left by the end of the second week in September. Twenty-some warblers breed here along with vireos, flycatchers, thrushes, woodpeckers, waterfowl, osprey, and bald eagles. Three species of accipiter, some buteos, merlins, and peregrines nest here. As you drive or walk along the many trails watch for pileated woodpeckers, bald eagles, and elusive species. Spring arrives with the drumming of ruffed grouse, the aerial acrobatics of woodcock, and the woodpeckers calling and pounding on trees.

Watch for spruce grouse. They are black whereas ruffed grouse are brown.

Maine’s common breeding waterfowl include black ducks, mallards, wood ducks, blue-winged and green-

winged teal, ring-necked ducks, common goldeneyes, the three mergansers, common eiders, and Canada geese. Migrant geese, black ducks, and mallards arrive early in the spring. Both teals are late arrivals. Geese, black ducks, and wood ducks initiate nesting in early April. Maine’s wintering sea ducks move to their nesting grounds. Common eiders nest on the offshore islands of Maine and Maritime Canada. Scoters and old squaws travel to sub-arctic parts of Northwest Canada.

Fall and winter usher in migrating ducks including both scaup, both Goldeneyes, buffleheads, the three scoters, oldsquaw, other dabblers, and harlequins. In the fall you may glimpse a magnificent golden eagle along the coast. Sometimes sandhill cranes can be seen as they stop over. Some Canada geese, black ducks, mallards, mergansers, diving ducks, sea ducks, and harlequins winter here. (cont. on page 6)

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(cont. from page 5) Don’t forget common loons which breed on many of our lakes. Everyone enjoys their melodious yodeling. In early autumn they start to move to salt water for the winter. And of course the booming of the American bittern is a thrilling echo in the marsh in May. Owls, great horned, barred, sawwhet, long-eared, and screech, are more often heard than seen. Barred owls are occasionally seen during the day sitting on poles or tree limbs and are quite content watching people walk by them.

Pileated woodpeckers excavate trees as do seven other species of woodpeckers including the elusive Black-backed and three-toed woodpeckers.

A number of birds have pioneered into Maine over the years and now breed here. Some examples are ringnecked ducks, cardinals, mockingbirds, brown thrashers, orioles, turkey vultures, peregrines, and merlins. Wild turkeys are here via transplanting wild birds from Vermont.

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Many shorebirds migrate through Downeast Maine in spring — April thru the first half of May — and autumn — starting in late July. Breeders here include spotted sandpiper, woodcock, common snipe, and upland sandpipers.

Shorebirds and marsh birds bring great

excitement to birders. Many species of migrating shorebirds can be seen on tidal flats as they scurry after worms, insects, clams, and snails. Marsh birds can be difficult to find in the marsh.

Virginia rail, sora, pied-billed grebe, American bittern, marsh wrens, and some sparrows breed here. Purple sandpipers can be found here in autumn into winter feeding on invertebrates on saltwater rock jetties.

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On the ocean, either from a boat or from shore watch for eiders, guillemots, razorbills, murres, terns, gannets, petrels, and perhaps puffins.

People often wonder where are the waterfowl in summer. Their activities of nesting, molting, and raising broods cause them to be shy and stay hidden in the vegetation of the wetlands.

Autumn and winter are the times to see northern birds like evening and pine grosbeaks, pine sisken, redpolls, crossbills, boreal chickadees, Canada jays, and northern owls and gulls.

Two types of robins are here. They are the American robin and Labrador robin. They look alike but the Labrador robin is darker in color, especially on the back, and is usually our winter robin.

Wherever you travel in Downeast Maine be on the lookout for moose.

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Castine’s Ethel S. Noyes The memory lingers on

by Wilson Museum Staff

M

emories from childhood linger long, especially when it concerns ice cream, toys, and town characters. In Castine from the 1910s to the 1950s, Ethel Noyes owned a small shop on Water Street.

Her shop was level with and opened onto Water Street. On the west side of the building was a steep wooden staircase, well-known to the locals, leading down to Sea Street and the lower level of Ethel’s building to the destination of Chamberlain’s ice cream parlor. Above Ethel’s shop were two or three rooms which were rented to women who probably worked in the nearby canning factory. Even in the 1920s the building was worn and tired looking and con-

tinued that way until it was torn down thirty years later. And yet, nearly seventy years after that, the store is still remembered fondly, as is its proprietor.

At a time in history when hems were rising and necklines were lowering, Miss Noyes, a tall woman, always wore high-necked, long-sleeved shirtwaists and ankle-length skirts, a uniform from a bygone era. It was a signature look for a beloved and singular character.

The Ethel S. Noyes shop consisted mainly of a single room which had display counters along two walls and a table in the middle. Counters and table were filled with assorted items of undetermined age and condition. Miss Noyes stood behind the longer counter as

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she crocheted dolls’ clothes and visited with customers. The fresh new dolls with their tiny, clean garments seemed out of place with the rest of the stock and sold quickly. Always the polite shopkeeper, she greeted her customers and, as they left, she called out, “Come again.” One day two little girls came into the store. They looked at the dolls, bought nothing, but lingered so long at the door that Ethel suggested they might be ready to leave. One replied, “But you didn’t say ‘Come again!’”

Ethel smiled and said, “Come again,” and the children left satisfied.

Behind the main room of the shop was a smaller one completely lined, except for the door and window, with sec(cont. on page 8)

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(cont. from page 7)

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and sewn into my winter underwear.”

Added to that aroma, she also told how the children had small slabs of salt fish pinned to their clothes so that a snack was always available.

Ethel’s teaching career was cut short as family illness brought both her and her sister home by 1909. A few short years later, in 1912, their father, Nelson, a Civil War veteran, died. Only two years after that their mother, Sarah, died; and one year later, their brother, Harry, died, leaving Ethel and Grace to share the family home on upper Main Street.

Main Street in Castine is a steep hill with Water Street bisecting it near the lower end. Townspeople remember that when Ethel had groceries or items from her shop to take home, she used a basket on wheels which she dragged up the hill. While similar totes are quite common today, back then these were thought of as odd contraptions, and there must have been several over the

AC

ond-hand books which were for sale or rent. Once, a gentleman found among the books a rare edition and wanted to pay what it was worth, but Ethel wouldn’t hear of it, saying, “The price is marked in the book and that is the price you pay.” Thus, the reader may not be surprised that Ethel did not originally aspire to become a shopkeeper.

Ethel and her sister Grace had prepared themselves to become teachers by attending and graduating from Eastern State Normal School in Castine; Grace in 1889 and Ethel in 1895. It is uncertain if Grace taught following graduation, but Ethel was known to tell of her experiences on Eagle Island, near Deer Isle. She remembered that the air in the small, wood-heated schoolhouse became more odiferous as the fall lengthened into winter. Thinking that one small boy was largely responsible, she suggested that he have a bath when he went home. The child replied, in surprise, “I can’t, Miss, I’ve been greased

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com years, all constructed for her personally by local contraption builder, Burt Stover. Stories, though not unkind ones, concerning her were numerous. She even told tales on herself; one concerned a ham she was given. She trundled it home in her basket on wheels, but then it disappeared. Some days – or weeks – later she discovered it, right where she put it, on the dining room table.

In the 1920s, with entrepreneurial spirit and perhaps some inheritance, the sisters became involved in a development near the lighthouse at Dice’s Head. Grace was president of the corporation which purchased a property with an existing central lodge and a few cottages. The plan was to rent the cottages or rooms to visitors and provide meals at the lodge as well as to subdivide the premises into lots for sale to people who would then build other cottages. While several lots were sold and the Colonial Shores Inn success-

Beach Front Cottages

Postcard in the Wilson Museum’s collection published by The Townview Card Company.

fully rented rooms and provided meals during the first few years, eventually the combination of stock market crash, resulting Depression, and some shenanigans from others in the development corporation led to the deterioration and ultimate failure of the venture. Luckily, Ethel had her store to fall back on.

Back in 1909, she had begun renting a storefront on Main Street, but quickly moved to Water Street where, in 1916, she purchased the entire building. She categorized her store as a dry goods

store and sold what she could, when she could. Especially during World War II when rationing made selling candy and other goods nearly impossible, she persevered. She was most known for carrying sewing supplies, clothing, books, gifts, candy, toys, and postcards. The postcards she had printed and branded with her store as publisher. These featured scenic views of Castine including some private home interiors. Though Ethel S. Noyes passed away in 1951, her postcards have become vintage memorabilia showing Castine as the lovely town that it is, and Ethel’s name and memory linger on.

Much of the information in this article comes from personal reminiscences of Ellenore Doudiet, Wilson Museum Director from 1947 to 2004.

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The SS Kronprinzessin Cecilie Visits Bar Harbor

by James Nalley

B

Germany’s treasure ship

etween 1897 and 1907, four Kaiser-class transatlantic ocean liners were built by the German shipping company Norddeutscher Lloyd. The first of these so-called superliners was the SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse, which was the first ocean liner built with four funnels, which sparked a race for maritime supremacy between Germany, France, and the United Kingdom. The largest of the Kaiser class was the SS Kronprinzessin Cecilie, which was named after the Crown Princess Cecilie of Germany.

According to International Marine Engineering, the ship was 19,400 GT

(gross tonnage) and approximately 706 feet in length. It included 287 firstclass cabins, 109 second-class cabins, and seven steerage compartments for a total of 1,888 passengers and a crew of 697. Due to its luxurious design, the ship was regularly used by the wealthy to travel between her homeport of Bremen and New York.

However, on August 4, 1914, approximately one week after the war had broken out in Europe, Captain Charles Polack was ordered by the German government to turn around and seek shelter in a neutral port in the United States. As stated by Steve Fuller in the

Ellsworth American, “The ship had left New York on August 1 bound for England and was ‘little more than a day’s run’ from the English coast when the captain received news by wireless that war had been declared. Under orders ‘to return to America with all haste,’ the ship’s captain complied and drove the ship at almost 24 knots.”

It is important to note that this decision was not simply based on the ship itself nor its wealthy passengers.

Instead, it was because the ship was carrying 20 tons of gold and 26 tons of silver, for an estimated total of $13 million (or $320 million in 2018). Fearing (cont. on page 12)

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Hancock-Washington-Penobscot Counties

12

(cont. from page 11) that the cargo would be a prime target for British or French ships blocking the route back to Germany, it was no surprise that the SS Kronprinzessin Cecilie was ordered to turn around.

However, the passengers were left “in the dark” about this change of plan.

According to Wayne Reilly in the Bangor Daily News, “The passengers knew about the change in direction only after they noticed that ‘the position of the moon had unaccountably shifted to the port side of the ship.’” Meanwhile, “the fog protected the ocean liner from detection during most of the journey.

Electric lights were turned off…wireless messages were banned…[and] her four stout stacks had been [covered] with black paint so that she resembled an English steamship.” In this regard, the black funnels resembled the RMS Olympic or another prominent ship of the British White Star Line.

Among all the ports along the east

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York. According to the August 12, 1914 edition of the Ellsworth American, “It is safe to say that there was more real money in Ellsworth for a few minutes last Sunday than ever before in the history of the town.” Meanwhile, Maine Central trains were arranged to transport the passengers and their luggage back to New York. According to Reilly, “people lined up on the train platforms at Union Station in Bangor to view the wealthy travelers passing through.”

Naturally, over the next three months in which the ship remained in the port, it piqued the interests of both locals and visitors. As stated by Fuller, the ship became a popular tourist attraction and “the ship’s band even gave several public concerts over the course of the summer.” Moreover, local businesses took advantage of the situation. For instance, according to Reilly, “The Newport House placed an advertisement in the newspapers stating that customers

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coast of the United States, the seemingly random choice of Bar Harbor was due to the presence of a passenger. According to Cooper Fox in Bar Harbor’s German Treasure Ship, “One of the main reasons for choosing Bar Harbor was a prominent passenger with ties to the tourist town. The family of New York banker C. Ledyard Blair, who had been on his way to Scotland, owned a ‘cottage’ near Bar Harbor. An experienced yachtsman, Blair even piloted the liner into port.” As stated by Reilly, the captain was also “a personal friend of Alessandro Fabri, another of Bar Harbor’s prominent summer folk…Fabri not only communicated often with the Cecilie by radio, but he also made frequent Atlantic crossings aboard it.”

Upon its arrival in Bar Harbor, the precious cargo was promptly taken off the ship by 40 armed guards, transported on smaller boats, and eventually placed on a train bound for New

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com could see ‘The Treasure Ship’ from the hotel while having ‘an excellent Sunday dinner.’”

The ship was docked in Bar Harbor until November 7, when it left for Boston and remained there until the United States officially entered World War I in April 1917. More specifically, the ship was commandeered in February 1917 by the United States and transferred to the U.S. Navy in April. In July, it was commissioned and renamed the U.S.S. Mount Vernon, with plans for it to serve as a troop ship.

On October 31, 1917, the U.S.S. Mount Vernon made her first crossing to Brest, France, which was one of its nine successful voyages made during the war. However, on September 5, 1918, the ship spotted a periscope approximately 500 yards off the starboard bow.

According to the Naval History and Heritage Command, before submerging, German U-boat U-82 managed

to launch a torpedo, which struck the ship and flooded the midsection. Damage-control teams managed to save the ship, but the attack killed 36 sailors and injured 13. After making temporary repairs at Brest, the ship sailed to Boston, where it was completely overhauled for service.

In March 1919 (approximately four months after the war), the U.S.S. Mount Vernon transported returning veterans to the United States for the last time, after which it was assigned as a U.S. Army Transport vessel. After making a final trip in July 1920, it was laid up in Maryland. After the outbreak of the war in Europe in 1939, the United States offered the ship to the British as a troop transport ship, but they kindly refused due to the ship’s age. In September of 1940, the ship returned to Boston where it was scrapped, thus bringing an end to one of the last ocean liners from the turn of the century.

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Hancock-Washington-Penobscot Counties

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Main Street in West Jonesport, ca. 1915. Item # 25815 from the collections of the Maine Historical Society and www.VintageMaineImages.com

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com

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Hancock-Washington-Penobscot Counties

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Own a piece of history!

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Vacationers crabbing in Deer Isle. Item # 1977.55.365.11 from the Carroll Thayer Berry Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

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Hancock-Washington-Penobscot Counties

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The World Of Virginia Chase Perkins Remembering the author from Blue Hill

by Charles Francis

A

s a little girl Virginia Chase loved to explore the shore closest to her Blue Hill home. As she grew older her meanderings took her further afield, to East Blue Hill’s McHeard Cove and Blue Hill Falls, with its view of The Nub. Later, when she reached adulthood and wrote as Virginia Chase Perkins, her married name, she recalled these jaunts in an article that appeared in The New England Quarterly, A Mining Boom in Maine.

A Mining Boom in Maine begins “Strangers walking through the countryside in Maine, particularly near the coastline, have sometimes come upon abandoned mines without recognizing what they were. Dozens of these still pit

the fields and pastures, some only deep enough for a man to stand in, some real shafts hedged by blackberry bushes and brambles.”

A Mining Boom in Maine is well researched and well documented. It is an accurate appraisal of a time when there was a legitimate Maine gold rush. The article is a bit more than mere historical research, however. It is too well written to be tagged as just that. The two lines quoted above catch the attention, hook the reader, as a simple presentation of historic factoids would not. The lines make one want to see if he or she can discover an abandoned mineshaft and maybe even something more along the Maine coast.

Virginia Chase Perkins’ article on Maine’s gold rush appeared in The New England Quarterly in 1941. Maine’s gold rush occurred around the decade of the 1880s. Virginia Chase was born in 1902. She wasn’t writing about something she witnessed. She saw plenty of abandoned mines when she was growing up though, open pits and crumbling shafts. They were there aplenty in and around Blue Hill. Plus the Blue Hill area underwent another mining boom of sorts at the beginning of the twentieth century when a consortium of New York and Pennsylvania hopefuls created the Maine Mining Company to extract vast quantities of imagined copper from the Blue Hill Peninsula. That

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com latter mineral rush occurred when Virginia Chase was a toddler of some two or so years.

In writing A Mining Boom in Maine, Virginia Chase Perkins combined hard historical data, personal experience, and childhood and adolescent memory to produce a well-written piece. Of the three, the last is the most intriguing. As a girl growing up in Blue Hill, Virginia Chase heard plenty of local gold rush stories, stories of broken dreams and dashed aspirations. At one point in the late 1800s there were thirty-nine mining companies operating in the Blue Hill area. Add to that figure all the area farmers who took the time to dig a hole in a back forty field and you get a sense of just how much of a gold rush there was.

Virginia Chase was the youngest child of Edward and Mabel (Lord) Chase. The Chase family was decidedly clannish. The Chase children were brought up doing things together as a

family, and as supportive of the interests and projects of each. When author Mary Ellen Chase, one of Virginia’s big sisters, was working on her famous book of Blue Hill, Jonathan Fisher, Maine Parson (1768-1847), she enlisted the aid of a number of her siblings as well as other relatives in researching material for the book. In particular, Mary Ellen Chase mentions sisters, Mildred and Olive, brother Newton and, of course, Virginia, as contributing to the work.

The Chase family was church-going. The family attended Blue Hill’s Congregational Church. Edward Chase was brought up Congregationalist.

His wife was brought up Baptist. Mabel Lord Chase adopted her husband’s faith when she married. For the Chase siblings, church was a family affair, a time when family custom brought them together as a whole for religious observance.

Virginia Chase Perkins’ sense of

place stemming from her having been born and brought up on Blue Hill Peninsula and her sense of family are two of the most deeply rooted sources of her writing. This is especially true of her best-known work One Crow Two Crow.

To appreciate the essence of One Crow Two Crow one need but drive along Route 15 from Orland to Blue Hill. Much of the countryside — like that of much of the rest of the downeast region — is rolling blueberry barren.

The term barren is not a misnomer as applied to this terrain. It is a double-edged metaphor. The land is barren.

The only time it is frequented by human beings happens in burning season in early spring when clouds of smoke from dead grass mushroom skyward and then when bent-backed blueberry rakers harvest Maine’s second most famous crop in late summer. Virginia Chase grew up not far from this bar(cont. on page 20)

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Hancock-Washington-Penobscot Counties

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(cont. from page 19) renness, a barrenness broken only by the occasional sun- and wind-weathered New England typical clapboard farmhouse. This was the world Virginia Chase Perkins wrote of in One Crow Two Crow. It was a world of superficial barrenness but also one where there was happiness and joy. For Perkins, these all-positive human traits rest on a foundation of the sense of family and place.

Virginia Chase Perkins was one of that rare breed of writers who was at home in two genres, the novel and the essay. One does not include history here because the history Virginia Chase Perkins wrote appeared in essay form.

Personal viewpoint is clearly evident in Perkins’ work of historic nature, and personal viewpoint is characteristic of the essay.

Virginia Chase Perkins was an educated woman. She held degrees from the University of Minnesota and Wayne State University in Detroit. That

she would attend one of the largest universities in the country and one in the industrial heartland of the country may just explain her sensitivity in regard to her writing of the place of her birth. The former may have been in part responsible for her appreciation of the latter.

Virginia Chase Perkins taught at Hartford College for Women in Connecticut for some twenty years. While she was there she produced her most serious academic work, The Writing of Modern Prose. The book is a formal study of rhetoric, the study of composition, grammar, and syntax. It is designed for the college student and structured as a series of essays.

Today Virginia Chase Perkins is regarded primarily as a Maine writer.

Perhaps this is as it should be. When she was a young woman Virginia Chase met Sarah Orne Jewett. Later she would say Jewett was her principal role model.

One Crow Two Crow and some of Perkins’ other fiction suggests it is not un-

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com

fair to regard her as a legitimate heir of Jewett. Perkins’ essays, especially the subject matter of those in The Writing of Modern Prose, suggest more, however. They suggest that Virginia Chase Perkins was a reflective individual who sought out ways of defining what it was to be a writer who wrote completely.

The Bar Harbor Horse Show, ca. 1910. Item # 7764 from the collections of the Maine Historical Society and www.VintageMaineImages.com

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Hancock-Washington-Penobscot Counties

22

Transporting The Wealthy To Bar Harbor Railway trail recalls elegant time in Hancock

by Brian Swartz

O

nly a walking trail recalls the era when well-heeled summer folk once rumbled through Hancock Village on the Bar Harbor Express while en route to Mount Desert Island.

Settled in 1766 and established by the Maine Legislature in February of 1828, Hancock fronts on Frenchman Bay. Made visible 100-150 years ago when farming and logging had cleared most coastal forests, MDI’s humpy silhouette dominates the southern horizon.

During the latter 19th century,

summer’s heat and affiliated diseases stalked the overcrowded east coast cities, leading many wealthy families to seek cooler, healthier climes until fall arrived. While painting Mount Desert Island’s wild beauty, Hudson River School artists introduced “the Island,” as many Downeast Maine residents now call MDI, to American gentry.

They started traveling to MDI not long after the Civil War. Steamships carried the wealthy and their servants and baggage to Bar Harbor on regularly scheduled routes, and railroad connections existed as far as Portland for

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travelers left queasy by too much ocean travel.

Entrepreneurs realized that building a railroad from Bangor to a point on the Hancock County coast opposite Bar Harbor could capture much summer traffic traveling by steamer. Created on March 4, 1881, the Maine Shore Line Railroad Company raised sufficient capital to lay 41.3 miles of track from Brewer to the new Mount Desert Ferry wharf at McNeil Point, a small headland jutting from Hancock Point.

The railroad ran from Brewer Junction through Holden, alongside Phil-

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com lips Lake in Dedham, across a new steel Union River trestle in Ellsworth Falls, and through Ellsworth before curving east into Hancock. Skirting the south side of Hancock Hill, the railroad crossed Old Pond on a causeway and bridge and beelined through Hancock Village to the Taunton River shore before turning east by south through Waukeag to reach the ferry terminal.

The Maine Central Railroad leased the new line in 1884 and started running passengers that summer to McNeil Point. From the terminal there a steamer transported people and luggage 8 miles across Frenchman Bay to a Bar Harbor terminal.

Tapping into the lucrative summer-folk market, railroad executives created the Bar Harbor Express running between Boston and Bar Harbor.

The first Bar Harbor Express rumbled northbound from Boston on June 29, 1885.

Two years later the Maine Central

revamped the schedule, which had mandated a train change in Bangor, so travelers could reach Boston or Bar Harbor faster. Then the Maine Central bought the Maine Shore Line Railroad in 1888.

Train traffic through Hancock increased substantially from the mid1880s onward. “Travel on the Bar Harbor Express mirrored the elegance found in the grand cottages on Mount Desert Island built during the Gilded Age,” Brook Ewing Minner wrote in The Bar Harbor Express: A Most Elegant Travel Option.

“It was not uncommon for families such as the Vanderbilts, the Pulitzers, and the Morgans to ride the train to reach the Island,” Minner noted. Riding in passenger cars built to reflect opulent living — “carriages of a train are rendered like the room of a dwelling,” Minner cited an 1887 Pullman Palace Car brochure — the summer folk ate and slept amidst creature comforts.

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When a Bar Harbor Express was not scheduled, the Maine Central ran its trains down to the McNeil Point terminal to unload lumber, food, and other items essential to living on Mount Desert Island. After creating Washington Junction in western Hancock, the railroad had long since extended its steel tentacles east to Calais.

As happened to Maine’s surviving narrow-gauge lines and the standard-gauge spurs that dead-ended in places like Patten and Hartland, the shifting of surface transportation from railroads to vehicles ultimately doomed the Maine Central Railroad spur running to McNeil Point. Despite strong opposition from some summer residents, MDI towns voted to let automobiles use their streets.

Then the state built a causeway across Thompson Island to link Mount Desert Island with mainland Trenton.

Rather than travel by ferry from Han(cont. on page 24)

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Hancock-Washington-Penobscot Counties

24

(cont. from page 23) cock to Bar Harbor, summer folk could now detrain in Ellsworth and travel by car to their MDI cottages.

Declining passenger numbers led the Maine Central to abandon its Hancock spur. Pulling up the rails and many ties, the railroad erased history in Hancock.

Today the railroad lives on in Hancock place names: Old Track Road off Route 1 in Hancock Village, Island Train Way, and Ferry Road.

Then there’s the Old Pond Railway Trail, cooperatively created by Crabtree Neck Land Trust, the Frenchman Bay Conservancy, and the Maine Coast Heritage Trust. The trail follows the actual railbed from a parking lot on the Point Road, opposite Hancock Town Hall, west 3¼ miles to an endpoint a short downhill walk from another parking lot off Old Route 1.

Old ties frequently appear, and rust-

ed rails and a rectangular concrete base mark where a very short spur ran to a small building near the Point Road.

Crossing salt-water Old Pond on the original steel trestle (now decked over), the trail runs along the causeway and then into the woods on the western shore.

Until cut and tossed aside each spring, wintertime blow-downs often block the trail’s western section, which passes through a thick spruce-fir forest.

Standing on this limited-visibility section, it’s hard to imagine the Bar Harbor Express flying eastbound while hauling wealthy summer folk headed for Mount Desert Island.

But trains ran through this part of Hancock for more than 60 years.

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Jonesport’s William Wallace Clark Survived the Petersburg ‘turkey shoot’

by James Nalley

W

hen the subject of the American Civil War comes up, various campaigns such as Gettysburg, Antietam, Shiloh, and Bull Run, are always at the forefront.

This is not surprising considering that the Battle of Gettysburg had approximately 23,000 Union casualties and 25,000 Confederate casualties out of the 165,000 soldiers engaged in the three-day campaign. However, there is a tendency to forget that the larger campaigns included smaller skirmishes that in some cases had higher death tolls.

For example, the Richmond-Petersburg campaign in Virginia, fought from June of 1864 to March of 1865, included the Battle of the Crater on July 30, 1864.

This one-day battle resulted in a de-

William Wallace Clark

cisive Confederate victory and 3,798 Union casualties. Overall, only one out of five Union soldiers survived the day, including an 18-year-old William Wallace Clark who eventually resided in Jonesport, Maine.

Born on May 23, 1846, Clark, like many of the young men his age, worked as a seaman along the picturesque coastline of Machias. However as the Civil War entered its third year, Clark enlisted as a private in February of 1864 in order to help the cause and put an end to the Confederacy. Five months later Clark was part of the Richmond-Petersburg campaign, which did not include the typical plan of surrounding a city, cutting its supply lines, etc. Instead, it consisted of nine months of trench

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com warfare in which Union forces, commanded by General Ulysses S. Grant, unsuccessfully attacked Petersburg and then constructed thirty miles of trenches between the two cities.

In June of 1864, after weeks of fighting that resulted in a stalemate, Lt. Col. Henry Pleasants, commander of the 48th Pennsylvania Infantry (under Major General Ambrose Burnside’s IX Corps) and a former mining engineer, proposed the novel plan of digging a mineshaft and planting explosives directly underneath the Confederate lines. His purpose was to kill all of the defenders, have the Union soldiers fill the breach, and drive out the remaining Confederates.

After this plan by Lt. Col. Pleasants was barely approved, Clark and a group of former coal miners began digging the 500-foot-long, 5-foot-tall tunnel under the Confederate lines. According to The Petersburg Campaign: June 1864-April 1865 by John Horn, General Grant saw the operation as a “mere way to keep the men occupied,”

and doubted that it had any tactical value. Moreover, this plan quickly lacked motivation as well as the wood necessary for supporting the underground structure. However, Clark continued to remove the dirt by hand and created “sledges made from cracker boxes and the timbers from a nearby bridge.” The miners even constructed a sophisticated wooden air-exchange duct that drew in fresh air from the surface.

On July 17th Clark and the men reached the Confederate lines. Although rumors of the T-shaped mine spread among the Confederates, General Robert E. Lee refused to act upon it for two weeks. By that time the Confederates were unable to discover its location. Believing that they had the advantage, the Union soldiers filled the mine with 8,000 pounds of gunpowder and packed the T-gap with approximately 11 feet of dirt. As stated by Horn, an extra “32 feet of packed earth was used to prevent the explosion from blasting out the mouth of the mine. On July 28th, the charges were armed.”

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It is important to note that Lt. Col. Pleasants had a division of United States Colored Troops (USCT) ready to lead the assault after the explosion, with one brigade entering the left side of the crater and the other entering the right. According to Battle Cry of Freedom: The Civil War Era by James McPherson, Major General George Meade of the Union Army ordered that the black troops should not be used in the lead assault, the reason being that “if the attack failed, then the black soldiers would be needlessly killed, creating political repercussions in the North.” Maj. General Burnside then complained to General Grant who sided with Meade. Despite the fact that a white division was ordered to replace the United States Colored Troops, everything deteriorated rapidly after the explosion and the colored troops were still used in the initial charge.

On July 30th the explosion immediately killed 278 Confederate soldiers and the stunned troops failed to direct (cont. on page 30)

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(cont. from page 29) any artillery fire toward the Union soldiers for approximately 15 minutes.

However, Clark and the white division along with the United States Colored Troops entered the crater (instead of going around it), believing that it could be used as a suitable rifle pit in which to take cover. Meanwhile, the Confederates gathered as many troops as possible for a counterattack. Within the next hour the Confederates had surrounded the crater and began firing their rifles down into it. Confederate Brigadier General William Mahone later described the event as a “turkey shoot.”

It is important to note that, even after surrendering, many Confederate soldiers were bayoneted by the United States Colored Troops and vice versa. During this bloodbath, Clark and the remaining troops fought their way out through hand-to-hand combat and failed to flank the Confederate lines.

Although Clark managed to survive, a musket ball had shattered his arm while

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another pierced his side. He would suffer from these injuries for the rest of his life.

After the war ended in 1865 Clark returned to Maine and settled in Jonesport where he became a sea captain.

In 1869 he married Lucy Helen Huntley and eventually had two children.

When Lucy died in 1902 she was buried at Richardson Cemetery in Jonesport. Approximately 22 years later, Clark died on June 24, 1924, at the age of 78. His remains were brought to Jonesport where he was buried next to his wife. However, over time Clark eventually went missing since he was buried in an unmarked grave. This was only discovered after Linda Harvey of the Jonesport Historical Society began researching her family tree. According to the Bangor Daily News, Harvey and Jonesport Historical Society President Donnie Woodard “painstakingly compiled maps and documentation or more than 4,000 graves in Jonesport.”

day approximately 146 years earlier.E

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Through their detailed investigation, Lucy was found, but not Clark, even though the records indicated that Clark was, in fact, buried in Jonesport.

The records also showed that, after Clark’s death, “the U.S. War Department granted the son’s request for help with paying Clark’s burial expenses,” but according to Woodard, “the family probably didn’t have enough money for a gravestone.” The Jonesport Historical Society promptly arranged for an appropriate headstone from Veterans Affairs and paid for repairs to Lucy’s broken gravestone.

On July 31, 2010, Clark was officially honored for his service by local veterans, the U.S. Coast Guard Honor Guard, the State of Maine Honor Guard, and local residents. At this afternoon service, an American flag was solemnly folded and presented to descendants of William Wallace Clark who luckily survived such a horrific

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Thelma Eye And Her Wartime Service From The Memoirs of Thelma Eye as told by Evangeline Hussey

T

helma Eye of Waterville was born in Calais in 1925. Today that makes her nearly 94 years young. Throughout her life Thelma has had a number of hobbies including dancing, basketball, genealogy, knitting, stamp collecting, and more. She also had many interesting adventures.

This is the story of one of her adventures.

In 1942, while attending Calais Academy, Thelma met some young men who were attending the National Youth Administration School (NYA) at Quoddy Village in Eastport. Many of them were from New York City and the Boston area and they would attend the high school dances. From them, Thel-

ma quickly learned one of the latest dance crazes, the jitterbug. Later in life she would find that those early dance lessons would come in handy when she attended a Lawrence Welk Show, but that’s an adventure for another story.

During that time Thelma also learned a lot about the National Youth Administration School, specifically that the training included woodworking, mechanics, and instrument repair.

So in the spring of 1943 when Thelma heard that the National Youth Administration was accepting applications from girls, she was one of the first to apply.

Up until that point the training for different manual jobs was offered only to boys. With the United States entering

World War II many young men were joining the Service. As a result, for the first time, available National Youth Administration training slots were offered to young women.

Thelma was in the first group of eight girls accepted to attend the school. She shared recently some of the memories from that time of her life.

“I graduated from Calais Academy in 1942 just after World War II began.

About that time, my family had moved to Gardiner. When I read in the newspaper that the National Youth Administration in Quoddy Village had opened for girls to attend (since so many boys were going into the Service) I applied for admission. Soon after I received

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com a letter accepting me into the Aircraft Instrument Repair Class, a four-month course. Letter in hand, I took the train from Gardiner to Eastport — my very first train ride.”

For the first month at the National Youth Administration School Thelma was taught woodworking, specifically how to make wooden aircraft propellers and for the next three months she received training on aircraft instruments. However, there was more than just studying at the school. Thelma still recalls all the fun she had while there, including watching all the different sporting events like basketball, boxing, and wrestling. A former high school athlete, Thelma was excited to join the basketball team. Off-campus, Thelma also had fun attending dances. She recalls that there was a little building with a jukebox and a dance floor where she spent a lot of her spare time.

After Thelma’s NYA training was completed, she got a job at an air de(cont. on page 34)

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(cont. from page 33) pot in Rome, New York. Thelma shared how that all came to pass.

“When I finished my course at Quoddy Village, I filled out a job application and was home less than a week when I received a job offer. It was in Rome, New York at the Rome Air Depot. Traveling by train from Gardiner to Boston’s North Station, I then took a cab to South Station and jumped on another train to Rome. That was quite an experience for me since, at the age of 17, I had never been out of the state of Maine and was on my way to New York. When the train arrived in Rome I looked around and all I saw were trees.

I remember saying, ‘Wow. This is New York, and it looks just like Maine.’”

When Thelma arrived at the Air Depot she wasn’t assigned to work on aircraft instruments as she had expected but instead was given a job testing aircraft engines in a building called the ‘Testing Block.’ Engines were shipped from overseas to the Air Depot to be re-

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paired. Even today Thelma remembers many of the steps needed to repair and test those large aircraft engines.

“The engines were taken completely apart and rebuilt by one group and then they were mounted on a rolling frame that allowed the engine to be rotated so people could work on the front, back, top, and bottom of the engine block.

The engines were then rolled from the Engine Block room into the Testing Block where I worked. When my group received the engine we would fill the oil pump, connect the spark plugs, and grease the necessary joints. When that was completed, the engine was rolled with the cell block, and a chain hoist was attached to the top of the engine.

Then the engine was hoisted up and attached with bolts to the frame. The carburetor was then lifted on the top, and wires were attached. A starter was attached in the rear, and a four-bladed wooden propeller was attached to the front.”

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“There was an elevator for us to ride on to work on the engine. After moving our tools and the rack to the workroom, our work door was closed and the doors on each end of the cell block were opened. Then we went to the operating room and started the engine.

We attached the exhaust pipes and put in gas, watching the flame from above.

This is where we could detect problems. We had to watch it run for four hours. It started at a slow speed, and we increased the speed each hour. When that was finished we called the inspector. When we got his okay we had to reverse the operation and disconnect everything, lower the engine onto the rack, and wheel it to the packing room where it was boxed up and sent overseas.”

“After pulling the engine up with that fall chain and lifting that heavy carburetor and starter, there was no need to go to a gym for exercise. I developed a lot of muscles after doing all that.”

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com Thelma also laughingly recalls one incident that happened while she was in the Testing Block.

“One time, when the doors of the cell block were open, a tornado was coming through New York and the wind swirled through one door of the cell block and out the other door, lifting my pant legs as it did and making the planes on the runway knock into each other.”

The Rome Air Depot also had basketball teams and dances, all of which suited Thelma well. During the winter her schedule was one month of day shifts and two months on the night shift. Since the base was operated 24 hours a day in three shifts, in order to play on a team Thelma had to juggle some of her work schedules. She didn’t mind working night shifts so she would swap shifts with someone who didn’t like to work nights. There was usually a dance following the games, too.

Thelma would sleep a few hours during

the day, play a basketball game, go to a dance, and then work the night shift.

She was young and enjoying every moment!

On August 12, 1945, Thelma and her friends heard that the war had ended. For Thelma that was a memorable moment in many ways.

“We had gone to a bar to celebrate a friend’s birthday (also my father’s birthday) when we heard the news that the war had ended. Then we really started to celebrate. I had on a green crepe dress that day. When one girl jumped up and shouted ‘Yippee!’ beer spilled on my dress. Do you know what happens when crepe gets wet? It shrinks.

Within a few minutes, I had on a short, short dress — way before they came into style.”

Thelma Eye went on to have many more adventures but none quite as patriotic as her wartime service.

According to the Roosevelt Institute, “The National Youth Administra-

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tion (NYA) was a New Deal agency implemented during the first term of President Franklin D. Roosevelt. It operated from 1935 to 1943 as part of the Works Progress Administration. The NYA provided work training based on U.S. citizenship and financial need for youth between ages 16 and 25. In addition to offering courses in writing, reading, and arithmetic, the NYA operated two programs — the Works Project Program to train unemployed, out-ofschool youth and the Student Aid Program to provide work-study training for high school, college, and graduate students. Overall, the NYA helped over 4.5 million young people find work, get vocational training, or afford a better education before the office was closed down in 1943.”

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Lincoln — Home Of State Champions Mattanawcook Academy’s 1943 & 1996 victories submitted by “Bing” Sturgeon & John Norris (From the 1943 Tattler) Last Saturday, May 29, Mattanawcook Academy’s track team journeyed to Waterville to participate in the Class B state meet being held at Colby College. The meet started at 2:30 p.m. in the drizzling rain which would let up for a while and then come down in torrents again.

The mile run proved to be the most exciting event of the afternoon with Melvin Lane of Mattanawcook running against the best in the Class B division.

Blethen, the National Schoolboy cross-country champion, who had never been beaten in schoolboy competition, was Lane’s nearest rival for top honors in this event. Blethen led Lane

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for the first three laps, but Lane finally passed him. Coming down the stretch they were neck and neck, but Lane gave a final spurt and went over the finish line first. As Blethen finished, Lane turned around and caught him in his arms, because Blethen was dead beat.

When the half mile was run, a drizzling rain was coming down, but Lane was an easy victor by at least ten yards, and he didn’t even have any competition in this event.

Roger Morrison took a first in the high hurdles and a second in the lows.

Incidentally, Morrison has never been beaten in an outdoor high school competition. Ray Steeves, a sophomore,

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took a second and fourth respectively in the high and low hurdles. Parker Scott proved to be a consistent point getter by placing second in the discus, tying for a second in the pole vault, and placing third in the javelin. Eugene Davis surprised everyone, including himself, by taking a third in the quarter mile.

All the boys in the track squad deserve much credit for showing up and working hard every night. The result was a state championship in track. It is the first state championship to be won by a track team representing Mattanawcook Academy. Coach Holmes deserves a large share of the credit for all his advice and assistance in help-

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com ing the boys prepare themselves. Last, but not least, we owe a lot to our track manager Arthur Millet for working so hard in keeping and taking care of our equipment.

(1996) The girls from Mattanawcook Academy have brought the school from Lincoln a state championship, 56 years after its first. Coached by John Norris, and guided by example from seniors Natalie Chouinard and Jamie Reardon, and by Cassandra Haynes, the team’s only junior, the team overcame many obstacles throughout the season, especially injuries to top runners. Never ones to give up, this dedicated group of girls certainly came from good stock.

Although injuries would often prevent a runner or runners from participating, the opposite was often the case — girls insisting on competing even with an injury, sometimes leaving Coach Norris to shake his head in amazement at such sacrifice and team spirit.

Sophomores Annie Whittier, Jana Hatch, and Heidi McCarthy each contributed heavily throughout the season, and freshmen Mary LeBrun, Corrie Pietras, Laura Emerson, Jana Crocker, Briana Haynes, and Alycia Jamison form the nucleus for what quite likely could be the first of four consecutive state championships. Although running in the Class C division, this team can hold its own against Class A and B teams. A true team effort, the team was managed by Sarah Clay, Kate Rideout, Andrew McCormick, and Amanda Coburn. The community takes pride in their championship team.

Discover Maine Magazine thanks Bing Sturgeon and John Norris for contributing this information.

Discover Maine

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Bangor’s Soldiers’ Monument Wind-stirred battle flags astonished a Bangor editor

by Brian Swartz

W

illiam H. Wheeler would always remember the flags stirring in a light breeze at Mount Hope Cemetery in Bangor.

He was a newspaperman and co-owner of the Whig & Courier.

“Wheeler & Lynde Proprietors” proclaimed the page 2 box identifying the daily and its owners and publication date, but business partners though they might be, “Wm. W. Wheeler” was definitely the editor.

Editorially the pro-Republican Whig & Courier supported Abraham Lincoln, Hannibal Hamlin, the war effort, and Maine Republicans. War Democrats received favorable treatment within the paper’s four daily pages. Excori-

ating Copperheads and their print outlets, Wheeler occasionally traded barbs with William Simpson, the anti-Lincoln publisher of the ironically named Republican Journal of Belfast.

The Whig & Courier filled its news holes (the paid ads always came first, often literally on page 1) with local, state, national, and international news.

Sometimes the paper ran articles obviously written by the news staff, i.e.

Wheeler, who often used the plural ‘we’ rather than the singular ‘I.’ His material revealed an eye to detail and an inquisitive intellect.

Bangorians went about their business as the war dragged on and the dead and wounded came home. Few people

thought about the Queen City’s growing list of dead heroes.

Then something changed.

Shot dead on the plain south of Fredericksburg city on December 13, 1862, Major William Pitcher arrived home to a grieving family, a somber tear-jerker of a funeral, and a burial in the family plot at Mount Hope Cemetery on Bangor’s outskirts. The detailed coverage published in the Whig & Courier indicates that William Wheeler witnessed the funeral and traveled in the cortege to the graveside.

During the December 31st Battle of Stones River at Murfreesboro, Tennessee, Confederates of the 8th Tennessee Infantry shot and killed regular Army

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com Major Stephen Decatur Carpenter. Although born in Foxcroft, the darkly handsome Carpenter essentially considered Bangor his home and to that city his comrades shipped his body.

Many participants in Pitcher’s late December funeral turned out for Carpenter’s funeral which was held in Norumbega Hall on February 11, 1863.

Afterward, a substantial entourage escorted the body to a gravesite near the intersection of today’s Riverside Avenue and Monument Avenue at Mount

Hope.

William Wheeler wrote a descriptive account of the funeral and the cold journey to the grave.

For some reason Carpenter’s death touched Bangorians deeply and they soon started discussing what could be done to honor their war dead. “What about a monument?” someone suggested.

“Good idea,” other people responded.

Influential business and civic leaders

formed the Soldiers’ Monument Corporation, “charged with the erection of a monument to our Citizen Soldiers who died for their country in this wicked rebellion,” the Whig & Courier reported.

Fundraising went ahead while corporation member S.P. Bradbury designed the monument and its enclosure.

With $3,490 in hand, the corporation commissioned A.C. Sanborn and Company of East Cambridge, Massachusetts to sculpt a multiple-section shaft (cont. on page 42)

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(cont. from page 41) from granite quarried in Concord, New Hampshire.

Bangor-based S.F. Jones & Son would build the stone wall surrounding the monument from granite quarried down the Penobscot River in Frankfort. Mount Hope Cemetery donated a square lot for the monument’s site. Stephen Decatur Carpenter happened to lie in that particular lot.

Everything proceeded relatively well and workers erected the 28½-foot granite shaft engraved on three sides with the names of 55 Bangor men who had died in military service.

Corporation members selected Friday, June 17, 1864, to dedicate the monument. The day “opened splendidly,” Wheeler noticed, and became a perfect June day in Maine, “quite hot, but not sultry.”

A splendid parade formed along Main Street near the Bangor House kicked off at 1 p.m. and proceeded

through downtown Bangor and out State Street to Mount Hope Cemetery. Whether on foot or in a carriage, Wheeler accompanied the parade.

Turning into the cemetery’s main entrance, he noticed the “immense crowd … in front on either side of the Monument,” and “the grove” atop Mount Hope “was filled with groups, reclining” comfortably and watching “the varied and beautiful scene.”

“The attendance was very large,” Wheeler realized. He would go on to list the speakers, most of what they said, and other ceremony-related events. But something totally unexpected would affect William Wheeler deeply.

Maine Adjutant Gen. John L. Hodsdon had sent from Augusta the visually dramatic evidence of the price Bangor and Maine had paid to save the Union.

“The worn and tattered battle flags” sent home by the 2nd, 5th, 6th, 12th, and 14th Maine infantry regiments

“and several others” stood near the Soldiers’ Monument, the stunned Wheeler realized.

Closely associated with Bangor, the 2nd Maine Infantry was represented by a flag presented by Bangor residents as the regiment’s 1,000 men literally marched off to war in 1861. Near that flag rose the California Flag, received by the 2nd Maine boys in a ceremony the night before they fought at First Manassas. Some regimental flags “were pierced with shot and shell until hardly a vestige of the material was left,” Wheeler noticed. The flags “spoke in terms of eloquence beyond all words, of the terrible carnage and strife which our noble heroes of Maine have been through,” he commented.

He watched men and women alike dab handkerchiefs to tear-moistened cheeks and eyes. Onlookers remembered “sons, husbands and brothers” who had “laid down their lives to pro-

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com tect” the flags, “and each person felt a more hallowed love for the old flags as those tattered folds fluttered in the wind.”

At least six Confederate regimental flags captured by Maine units stirred in the warm June breeze, too.

The flags, North and South, said it all, Wheeler believed.

• Do you enjoy brian swartz’s stories? If So, check out his blog, Maine At War, on the Bangor Daily News website:

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History of the Winterport Dragway

by Andrew Cook

U

nbeknownst to most who take the time to explore the quiet picturesque country roads of Winterport, people will also travel feet, or miles, from a true “survivor” of sorts.

Nestled in the quiet countryside is Winterport Dragway, an independent drag racing facility celebrating its 52nd year in business in 2019.

Imagine if you will, the year is 1967 — Detroit is heavy into the muscle car trend, people have disposable income, and are living life to the fullest. This is the generation which grew up with the greasers and hotrods of the 1950s, developing their idols and fantasizing about that carefree lifestyle. In this small town of Winterport, a group of local car enthusiasts realized their true love for the thrills and camaraderie they discovered in this automobile-centric and performance-based culture. Hence,

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an idea was born.

It just so happened that nestled away in the quiet area of Winterport was an abandoned WWII airfield. The proposal of using the airfield for “organized” drag racing was brought to the town council by this group of enthusiasts. After much debate, and with visions of rowdy, unorganized chaos, the town agreed to allow the racers to use the airstrip with a set of conditions, and operations would be subject to review by the town council once started.

With that, Winterport Dragway was born. For the record, the subsequent “reviews” by the town council revealed not only a highly organized operation, but also the pleasant demeanor of those partaking in or spectating the sport.

Being pleasantly surprised by their discovery, a partnership was formed that has forgone the test of time, and to this

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day remains in place.

Forward to 2019… In a time when independent motorsports venues are becoming a thing of the past, often victims of weak economies and real estate developers, Winterport Dragway continues to grow and thrive each continued year of operation. The secret to its continued success? Its people — supporters of Winterport Dragway — are the underlying foundation of success associated with the facility. From those who race at the dragway, to those who come to watch, to those who choose to support the facility in numerous other ways, it is the people that make the difference. In recent years, it has been the generosity of these people which has enabled the facility to make numerous improvements such as installing a new racing surface, paving numerous areas (cont. on page 46)

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(cont. from page 45) within the facility, and building and operational improvements to name a few. And following this pattern, 2019 is bringing even more improvements to ensure racers and spectators alike always have an enjoyable time at the facility.

Winterport Dragway hosts racing events each Sunday from May to October, as well as many other special events through the season. From Nostalgia Drag Racing, to blown alcohol funny cars, to motorcycles and snowmobiles, and even street nights so anyone can try their hand, Winterport Dragway offers it all. And remember, entrance to the races also allows access to the pit area where people can see all the race vehicles up close, and meet the drivers.

As Winterport Dragway enters it’s 52nd year of operation, we can all be reminded that the continued cooperation and collaboration between the

Town of Winterport and the Winterport Dragway Association is a testament to what can happen when good people work together.

So the next time you are on that quiet Sunday drive in the beautiful landscapes of Winterport, remember that you are close to one of the oldest independent drag racing venues in the United States. Even if drag racing is not your forte, swing by and see what years of cooperation, great people, and a family friendly environment can produce in these times of uncertainty.

Who knows if that original group of “gearheads” ever imagined the legacy that would evolve from that chance meeting and the dream they had? A true hidden gem of Maine, and never forgetting the foundation on which it came to be, Winterport Dragway looks forward to continuing the legacy on which is was built.

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com

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Moosehead’s Walter Arnold

by John Murray

T

Maine’s legendary trapper

he dense forests of Maine create a different breed of person who resides in the woods. A personality trait of self-reliance is genetically instilled within the makeup of a person born in this environment. An ability to sufficiently live off the land, having an intimate knowledge of the wildlife of the forest, and being able to deal with a harsh weather climate. Walter Arnold was one of those individuals able to carve out a livelihood in the forests of Maine.

Born as Walter Lewellen Arnold in 1894, he was the son of Alice and Alonzo Arnold of Willimantic, Maine.

Walter’s father was an experienced

woodsman who lived off the land. The woods of Maine had robust populations of game animals during the 1800s, and Alonzo Arnold used his skills as a hunter to provide meat for others. Alonzo was Walter’s mentor in the forest, teaching his young son how to shoot, track and capture wild game. Walter excelled at the skills that were taught to him by his father, and at a very young age became an adept woodsman in his own right.

Walter and his father became partners, and together they would hunt meat for the table, trap fur for profit and become reliable guides for outdoorsmen that visited Maine.

The turmoil of the world would

soon change the life of Walter Arnold and two million other American men.

In the spring of 1917, the United States would join its allies in World War I, and Walter would find himself embroiled in the unforgiving battlefields of France.

Walter entered into service for his country at the age of 23, and after the war ended in 1918, he returned to his native forests of Maine. It is said that the horrors of war forever change a man, and Walter had witnessed enough horrors to last him a lifetime. Walter never spoke much about the war, but had great disdain for the comment that this would be the war to end all wars.

He realized during the war that barbaric

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com acts against other human beings were forged in the mindset of many involved in the fields of battle.

When Walter Arnold returned to Maine after the war, he embraced the isolation and quiet that was offered by the forests of Maine. It was here that Walter found his inner peace. The forest provided all that Walter required to live, and he continued to hone his skills as a woodsman. During the spring and summer seasons, Arnold practiced other unique ventures in the forest, which included collecting spruce gum. This sticky gum was a natural byproduct of spruce trees and was the main ingredient for the popular spruce gum of the day. Arnold sold this collected spruce gum to Gerald Carr of Portland. Carr processed this gum and sold it to candy stores as chewing gum.

In the years that followed, Walter Arnold especially became a skilled trapper, and learned techniques that enabled him to capture the most elu-

sive fur-bearing animals of the forest.

Arnold attributed much of his success to the fact that he was developing and producing animal scents and lures that would attract animals to his trap sets.

With the advancement of Arnold’s skills, he became adept at capturing many of the most valuable animals of the time, including beaver, mink, fox and bobcat.

During this time, the furs of many animals had great value. Capturing a single mink or fox would attain more money than most men earned while working an entire workweek in a typical job. Soon the news of Arnold’s successful scents and lures spread across the state, and ultimately to other parts of the country. Other trappers wanted the secret lures and scents that Arnold was developing, and these men were now contacting Arnold to purchase these lures and scents. Arnold was now residing in the township of Greenville, near the lower end of Moosehead Lake,

and it was here that he would enter into a new aspect of his life.

Arnold quickly realized the business potential of marketing animal scents and lures, and he began a mail order business selling them, along with other trapping supplies. It was not long after that Arnold’s business was selling products across the country, and his mail order business became a big success. His reputation as a master trapper grew, and Arnold began writing books about his techniques to capture furbearing animals. In addition to being a book author, Arnold also wrote extensively for trapping and hunting magazines.

One of Arnold’s more popular books was authored in 1935, and was titled Professional Trapping. This widely acclaimed book was ultimately published in four editions until 1947 and further confirmed the notion that Arnold was one of the best trappers in the country.

The book Professional Trapping was (cont. on page 52)

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(cont. from page 51) used for many years to help train federal and state trappers in their capture of nuisance wildlife.

The reputation of Arnold would result in him working for Campbell – Fairbanks Expositions during the late 1930s, which was a big name in promoting sportsman shows. Arnold would install trapping exhibits and give educational demonstrations of his techniques.

It was during this time that Arnold realized the importance of the trappers of Maine to unify, and he was a founding member of the Maine Trappers Association. Arnold’s skills as a writer would result in him becoming the editor of the association’s newsletter. In addition to his task as the editor, Arnold would also serve terms as the secretary, treasurer and president of the Maine Trappers Association.

The tranquility of the forest would ultimately lure Arnold back to where he

loved being most. The mail order business gave Arnold great financial success, but was also preventing him from doing what he truly desired. He longed for the peacefulness of the dense forest, where he could witness quiet snowfalls that covered the landscape in beauty, and hear the birds singing their daily songs. The pull of the forest was too strong, and in 1959, Arnold would sell his mail order business to Oscar Cronk of Wiscasset. Cronk had befriended Arnold some years before, and Arnold realized that the business would be in the capable hands of a man with good character.

After selling his business to Cronk, Arnold returned to his beloved forest and the isolation that the remote forest gave him. Arnold resided alone in his hand-built cabin, far away from the population of other people, and was content. Even though Arnold was alone in the forest he was not forgotten. His

unique lifestyle made him intriguing and fascinating to many people and he became the subject of numerous stories in newspapers and magazines. Arnold was always fascinated with the concept that people were intrigued by his manner of living. He thought of himself as a simple man with a simple life. Yet this simple life was dramatically different than the busy hectic lives of most people that lived in the cities. He thought that people were too crowded in the cities and were at the mercy of losing themselves in the technology that surrounded them. To find out who you really are you must spend time alone with your thoughts.

Walter Arnold lived in his quiet cabin, cutting and splitting wood for the woodstove and memorizing the forest that he loved so much. At the age of 86 years, he passed away in 1980. Unquestionably, one of the true mountain men of Maine.

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Spencer’s Rescue Cheating a West Branch logjam

by Kenneth Smith

T

his story of a hero lacks all of today’s usual ingredients. There are no specialized rescue squads, no helicopters, no ambulance crews, no 911 to dial and no camcorder interviews. Afterward there were no plaques or medals awarded. The fact is we don’t know where our hero comes from, or his first name. His last name was Spencer.

It was April 30, 1867. Spring was late and the river drives were on. Snow melt had raised rivers to full flood.

Scott and Rollins Company had just released their boom on Quakish Lake, turning their logs out into the West Branch of the Penobscot River. This was not a major drive but a small pri-

Washing�on Count�’s Best Kept Secret

vate one. Just seven men, one boat and no onlookers were involved when a mid-river jam formed on Old Gray Rock, located below Rhines Pitch and above Island Falls. Scott’s driver boss went to Fowlers Carry. He planned to offer John and Frank Fowler, two of the best Penobscot watermen, $15 to break the jam. Fowlers Carry, where now sits Millinocket, was the site of the Fowler family farm. For fifty years this was the only homestead from Chesuncook to Little Schoodic Lake. Fowlers Carry was unique in that it did not follow the rough river bank. At this point the river curves like the letter ‘C.’ The carry goes cross-country from top to bottom.

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57

DiscoverMaineMagazine.com ately. Another man, Spencer, was swept downstream, leaving the four men stranded on the log jam. These men knew their fate. It was just a matter of time because no one was aware of their dilemma. Heavy rain, run-off melt, and a rising river would carry the jam away before morning.

Spencer had not drowned. At spring flood, rivers have surges or pulse beats.

Fixed waves or crests are common; then comes a sudden large wave. It was by chance that one of these heaved Spencer atop the overturned boat. The boat was narrow-bottomed, eel-slippery, keelless and bucking like a stallion. Spencer could gain no handhold. Suddenly, the craft smashed into a boulder, which split one side open. Spencer grabbed the split just as the broken side snapped back on his fingers. Pinned in place to his lifeboat, he hurtled two miles down the river. Battered by rocks, logs and the boat, dragged underwater by waves and rapids, he was barely conscious.

Plunging through the Island Falls stretch, Spencer was dimly aware that he was now headed for certain death.

Grand Falls, Grand Pitch, and a twenty-foot falls were just below. Fate again intervened when the craft struck a small wing jam, freeing his hands. A surge lifted Spencer on top of the logs.

Staggering to the bank, he wished for nothing more than to collapse and rest.

He knew he must not. Fowlers Landing and help were but four miles away.

The shortest route was cross-country, but it was nearing dark. Spencer knew that a boat was stashed a mile downriver. Stumbling, falling and wading, he found the boat and rowed down Shad Pond. Making the swing, he poled against the current for two miles up Millinocket Stream to Fowlers Landing. Spencer struggled up the slope and pounded on the door, hollering for Frank and John.

Their two wives stared at the spectre framed in the door. Spencer described

the terrible dilemma of his comrades as the women dragged him to the fireplace. They explained that Frank was logging at Smith’s Pond, but thankfully John was milking in the barn. All John Fowler said was, “How many, where are they?”

While John and the children loaded his boat on an ox-cart and filled it with gear, the women fed Spencer. The big Maynard boat required six men to handle it properly; that night there would be just two. The children gathered dry kindling to start a bonfire beside the jam, and made birch bark torches to light the trail. The two-mile trek was rough in daylight. After dark, in the cold and rain, and given Spencer’s condition, it must have been agony. Fowler’s oxen plodded on hauling the boat, gear and children holding poles topped with bark torches.

The stranded four had no thought of rescue. Safety, supper and sleep were just yards away, but it might as well (cont. on page 58)

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(cont. from page 57) have been miles. When the rescue team arrived at the jam site, one can only imagine how the two groups felt.

Spencer and Fowler would launch above the mid-river jam, torpedo downstream around it, locate an eddy, spin the boat, pole back up against the flow to the trapped loggers and then drive for the bank. If a pole snapped all would be lost, but John Fowler and Spencer were up to the task.

No one knows what exchange took place when they reached safety. Spencer was unaware that he was a hero.

A three-mile river tumble, a nine-mile hike, a daring boat rescue — just another day on the job. John Fowler might have smoked a last pipe and checked on Spencer who slept in front of the fireplace. John must have slept well, having cheated the West Branch again. He would not have to pass Gray Rock and view four pairs of boots hung high on a bank tree — the traditional memorial to loggers who died on the river.

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com

Tales Of The Maine Woods The lumber villages at Grand Falls

by Connee Jellison

“

I spent the first fourteen years of my life in the heart of a lumber operation,” said Irvin Moore of Carmel. “Our home was on the edge of Grand Falls Township and six miles outside the depot on Nicatous Lake. My Dad built that house and the school was set right in our front yard.”

“My first memories of the woods operations began about 1918 when Morrison Brothers was harvesting wood all around us for the Orono Pulp and Paper Company. The woods teams, their horses and gear created an always-changing picture, and our house was right in the middle of it all.”

Make no mistake about it. Irvin

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Moore is a real down-to-earth Mainer; tall and rugged with a straightforward, no-nonsense attitude, but not without the typical Mainers’ good humor. Able to laugh at oneself or predicament is an ability given by the Good Lord above to help in good times and bad. Eightyfour-year-old Irvin is just such a person. He is a product of a wholesome upbringing in the woods of Maine. The life and times of those days is still as fresh in his mind as the smell of pitch, which sticks forever in the nostrils of a lumberman.

Irvin was born in the family home which still stands at Grand Falls. One of ten children born to Roscoe and

Yencie (Harriman) Moore, he attended the little red schoolhouse which still rests there just across the dooryard. The world he was born into was between the heyday of lumbering, which was cutting pine, and the last phase, the cutting of pulp for the “insatiable maws of the paper mills,” as one writer put it.

Strange but melodic names fill this still beautiful section of Maine up beyond Saponac Lake. Gassabias, Duck, Nicatous, and Passadumkeag are names as familiar to Irvin Moore as those of his many relatives. All are American Indian names which long ago guided the canoe man upriver and down in Maine.

Descriptive names as in “Kiasobeak,” (cont. on page 60)

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(cont. from page 59) meaning the little fork, but today has been corrupted to Nicatous.

Gassabias’ origin was “Kiasobeesis,” meaning little Clearwater Lake.

Saponac, meaning the big opening, it being the first lake on the Passadumkeag Stream, was “Chibanook.” Historian Fanny Hardy Eckstrom, to whom I am indebted for the correct spellings of these place names, mourned the name ‘Saponac’ but felt it would remain that “because it is the name of a post office.”

Moore recalls the Morrison Brothers outfit, which swirled around his family home and included seven lumber camps. Their reign took in all of Nicatous Lake and the twelve miles to Grand Falls.

“Each of the seven camps had about sixty to sixty-five men employed,” said Moore, “and then there was the cook and two cookees, a bark scaler, and a clerk, so there could be as many as sev-

enty at any one time at each of these camps. Each camp put out around five thousand cords of pulp, mostly spruce and fir. It was all bound for the paper mills.”

“From early fall to the end of winter, the men never saw the camp in daylight with the exception of Sunday,” Moore went on. “Horses were kept in hovels near the sleeping quarters, and the men didn’t live much better than the livestock, as their bunk room was covered with tarred paper and men slept in their clothes often times.”

“Some of the cleanest people in the woods operations were the Swedish.

They kept their quarters clean, and every Sunday they spent the entire day cleaning themselves and their clothes.

They rigged up steam baths and took them often. They set a great store in bathing.”

There was never any talking at the

tables, according to Moore, and in that way no time was wasted. The cook and helpers could get cleaned up and in to bed early. They had to get up the earliest the next day. “Supper was never any later than 5 pm,” Moore reminisced, “and the men went to bed right afterward. The teamsters were up at 4 am because they had to get the horses fed and harnessed for the work day. The crew was up by five. There was little spare time and then only on a Sunday. A lot of the men whittled. I remember one in particular, Charles Potter. He lived in Nicatous all year round and was a clever man with wood and a knife.”

With a chuckle, Irvin recalled “I well remember when I was just kneehigh the first time I heard this loud shriek and I ran to my mother scared.

‘What is that,’ I cried to her, and she said ‘why that’s just the boat coming into the landing.’”

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61

DiscoverMaineMagazine.com Moore said the depot building at Grand Falls faced the lake and blocked the view from the house. A wharf ran out from that building and that is where the boats would come in and leave off the woods crew or unload supplies.

“You see,” explained Moore, “travel was up the Penobscot to the mouth of Passadumkeag Stream, through Saponac Lake and into the smaller branch of the Passadumkeag. The boats would pass through a crib bridge between Saponac and Grand Falls. The bridge could be lifted to let a boat through.”

Today’s traveler can ride up Route 2 from Old Town in the comfort of the car and see the old river route as it shines silvery-white on the left of the highway. A secondary state road runs between East Lowell and the village of Saponac right on down to Grand Falls. A passable road continues on to the very shores of Nicatous Lake. All

of these comfortable roads give up no secrets of how difficult travel was for the pioneers in this part of Maine.

Moore’s life is a reflection on an era of Maine fast disappearing. There were teams of choppers, knotters, ringers, and splitters, and all the work was done by hand. Yarding crews, consisting of a swamper, a teamster and a jumper-tender, moved into the area after the timber cruisers mapped the woodland to be cut. Then swampers prepared the main road to the lot, crossing the bogs with trees to form corduroy roads. Streams were bridged, dams erected, and then the choppers selected the trees. Smaller roadways were made to the streams where temporary log yards were installed. From there the wood was floated or towed down the stream to the landings to be hauled by boat or horse teams to the mills. Steamboats shortened the time it took to get the lumber

to the mills.

“I was about seven years old,” said Moore, “when a steam-driven log hauler came up to Grand Falls. It was supposed to be a great revolution and it would haul one-hundred-fifty cords of pulp at a time, but it only went a half mile an hour. It was way too slow, and besides, it was costly and time-consuming to build the roadbed for one of them. They never were practical.”

“Operations,” said Moore, “included peeling, yarding out and hauling it to the stream. Work was all done by hand and with a team of horses. There was a teamster at the depots at all times.

Harry Soucy was one of them. He did a lot of toting over the years. I also remember Clyde Treadwell, who was a toter between Burlington and Nicatous Lake. Of course, after a while, they could use trucks to do the hauling and I remember Bernard Damm was a driver (cont. on page 62)

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62

(cont. from page 61) for Morrison.”

Peeling was in late May, recalled Moore, and there would be three crews, one up there peeling, another on the way, and one crew leaving the operation. It was a hot, sticky job.

“The crews were rounded up mostly from Bangor,” said Moore, “and John Largay was one of the men sent down to get up a gang of men to work for Morrison Brothers. He’d go down to Exchange Street in Bangor and load them into the truck. Most of them arrived at Grand Falls too drunk to stand.

My grandmother would give them a cup of tea and put them to bed. She lived at what they called the Stickney Place on Bryant Ridge.

“My grandmother was a great cook, and that’s how I came to know Allie Cole. I used to tell his boys I knew their father before they did,” he says with a chuckle. “He loved my grandmother’s

cooking and he’d drive that old Reo of his up from where he kept the post office at Enfield just to have a meal of her home cooking. One day he asked if I’d like to jump in and ride up with him. Of course I did. He was a great man.”

“Food is a very important ingredient to a well-run lumber operation,” emphasized Moore.

“If a camp didn’t feed good, the crew would say ‘we’re headed back to Bangor’” he laughed.

“All of us went to school right there at Grand Falls,” recalled Moore, “and one of the teachers I liked the best was Phoebe Hodgkins. I’d always had trouble with fractions until she came along.

She quick as a wink took a piece of chalk and broke it in two. ‘What have I got?’ she asked. She proceeded until she had eight pieces and then started taking some of the pieces away. I caught on just like that and never had

r o g n a B

any more trouble with fractions.

“Phoebe was a wonderful woman.

She went down to the Lowell Tannery and bought a bell for our school with her own money. It’s still in the tower today. Two of my brothers maintain the school and keep it up. Every August they hold a Bean Sunday as a fundraiser. People come from miles around to taste and donate.”

“In 1928 I graduated from grammar school up there and began classes at Lincoln High School. But those times were tough, and I quit school to go to work. Shoveled snow at Brownville Junction for Canadian-Pacific one season, but in 1937 I came to Bangor and worked anywhere there was work.”

“I also remember when the logging operation ended up at Grand Falls.

When the teams of horses started coming out the trail, it took all day and there was a steady stream of them. Horace

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Morrison burnt the warehouse down and said he did it with relish as he’d come to hate the operation so much.”

Today Irvin Moore and his wife Bernice live on a quiet roadway in Carmel, enjoying their five children and their offspring.

But lrvin Moore’s rich and colorful past in the Maine woods and his vivid recollections of those days when life for him was a bustling lumber village at Grand Falls are never far from recall.

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64

The Bard Of Exeter The poems of David Barker

by Charles Francis

E

lizabeth Ellen Morrison passed away the tenth month of her fourth year. She died, a life of promise, unrealized.

How does one record a life so short?

Elizabeth Ellen died in 1852, in Exeter.

There are no pictures of her. No handy camera existed back then to snap away at her childhood antics. No photographer of the age visited Exeter to memorialize her in formal black, white and sepia. Perhaps Elizabeth Ellen knew her letters. Perhaps she left a few words scrawled on a bit of paper her mother carefully put away. Mayhap she left a charcoal daubing of the family cat or dog. The picture might have been preserved pressed between two pages of

OOK KENN R B ELS R BEA

the family bible. Whatever Elizabeth Ellen created is long gone now. There is no doubt of that. There was one who sought to preserve her memory, though.

And to a certain degree that person succeeded. He was a poet. His name was David Barker.

David Barker’s poetic memorial to little Elizabeth Ellen Morrison is The Blade of Corn. Just before she took to her bed, never to leave it again, Elizabeth Ellen planted a kernel of corn by the doorstep of her home. The planting and the place were the marks of a child.

What else could they be?

Elizabeth Ellen was still up and about when the kernel’s green shoot broke into the light. Then came her

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confinement. The bedridden child asked her mother to watch her blade of corn. “That tender plant was her only idol at the time.” The words are David Barker’s. They appear in the brief introduction to The Blade of Corn.

The central thought of The Blade of Corn is contained in the line “That Blade’s an emblem of thy form.”

What kind of a man can write of such a subject as that of The Blade of Corn? What kind of a man was David Barker? During his lifetime and for a bit after, he was called the Bard of Exeter, and sometimes the Burns of Maine. He was a lawyer. What sort of attorney, used to the rough and tumble of courtroom confrontations, would

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com Hampshire hometown. When David was ten his father Nathaniel died, leaving his mother Sally to bring up the ten children. She obviously did a good job as two sons, Lewis and Noah, went on to practice law and have successful political careers, serving in both the Maine House and Senate. Two other sons, Daniel and Mark, became successful merchants, and in fact, Daniel married a daughter of Joshua Chamberlain. David Barker, himself, practiced law and served in the Maine House. It was his poetry, however, which brought him his greatest notoriety.

David Barker attended Exeter common schools as a youngster and then went on to Foxcroft Academy where he so impressed school officials that they hired him as an instructor. After serving as a teacher in several Downeast communities, Barker returned to Exeter, where he secured a position in the law offices of Samuel Cony, a future governor of Maine and a member of

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one of the state’s most influential families. It was a telling move, and one that would help form Barker’s life not only as a lawyer but also as a politician and a poet.

Samuel Cony had started his own political career as a Democrat. He switched to the Republican Party, however, because of its antislavery stance.

Cony’s views were an influence on Barker’s own politics as well as his poetry. In fact, Barker wrote one poem chiding Massachusetts for enforcing the Fugitive Slave Law and another lauding the abolitionist efforts of firebrand and zealot John Brown. It was his poems of the common people of Maine and their language that earned for Barker the appellation of the Burns of Maine and the Bard of Exeter.

A good number of Barker poems center on the Civil War. These don’t deal so much with the officer corps but rather the rank and file, the com(cont. on page 66) Serving the Greater Clifton, Holden, Eddington, Brewer, Ellsworth, Old Town and surrounding areas

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take time out of a busy schedule to note the passing of a child? For that matter, what sort of individual would think in imaginative terms?

David Barker was, of course, a sensitive man. Perhaps the fact that he suffered ill health a good portion of his life had something to do with this. At the time of Barker’s passing, Josiah Crosby, a colleague, wrote of him “Feebleness of health…seated upon the nervous system had a tendency to create a disrelish for the combative part of legal practice, which he finally relinquished, and gladly sought a purer and higher enjoyment in the fascinating realms of poesy.”

David Barker was born in Exeter on September 9, 1816. He was the sixth of ten children who survived into adulthood. Exeter’s first setters, which included David Barker’s grandfather Daniel Barker, had, for the most part, come from Exeter, New Hampshire.

They named the town after their New

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66

(cont. from page 65) mon soldier. These would have been the friends and neighbors Barker saw march off wearing Union blue. The following lines from the poem Old Willey serve as an illustration: He laid the wall, and he saved the wood For me and others in the neighborhood.

Though you can’t tell from the above lines Old Willey is a war poem.

It goes on to tell of Willey enlisting in the Union Army and of his dedication to the Union cause. Another of Barker’s poems You Thousand of Men details the poet’s impressions as he watched the 18th Maine leave Bangor for the war front.

There was a time when David Barker was placed in the first rank of American poets along with such notables as Longfellow, William Cullen Bryant, and John Greenleaf Whittier. In 1888

George Bancroft Griffith showcased Barker’s work in his The Poets of Maine.

David Barker’s contributions to Maine literature were formally recognized when Bowdoin College awarded him an honorary degree shortly before his death in 1874. By the turn of the century, however, his poetry was already largely a thing of the past. In his 1920 essay on Maine literature John Minot devoted but a single sentence to Barker, referring to him as “the Burns of the Penobscot region.” This does not mean, however, that there is no interest in his work. In 1990, an anthology, The Lawyer’s Alcove: Poems by the Lawyer, for the Lawyer and about the Lawyer, which had been first published in 1900, was reissued. It included one of Barker’s poems. Perhaps there will be others to follow as David Barker, the Robert Burns of Maine who so aptly

captured the times and sensitivities of the Maine natives of long ago, deserves to have his work reprised.

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68

Murder Will Out Tragedy in Guilford and Parkman

by Charles Francis

A

re you familiar with the proverb “murder will out?” Though in use today, it is not as common as it was a hundred and fifty or more years ago. Back around 1900 and earlier newspapers used the phrase often when reporting on the successful conclusion of murder trials, especially trials marked by some striking and novel feature. Successful here means the culpable found guilty. The proverb is used as in popularly known, accepted, and repeated.

The phrase “murder will out,” meaning “murder will become public,” was in use at least as far back as Geoffrey Chaucer’s times in the 1300s.

Chaucer used the exact wording in The Nun Priest Tale when he wrote, “Murder will out that we see day by day.”

Shakespeare used the thought, with slightly different wording, almost 300 years later in The Merchant of Venice.

In part, Shakespeare’s use runs “it is a wise father that knows his own child… truth will come to light; murder cannot be hid long; a man’s son may, but at the length truth will out.”

The origins of “murder will out” are usually thought linked to the medieval superstition that a murderer’s presence near the corpse will be indicated by fresh bleeding. In other words, secrets or hidden crimes such as murder will eventually be exposed or discovered — nothing that is secret can remain a secret forever.

Eastern Maine of the mid-1870s and early 1880s saw two murder trials in which the accused was marked by particularly novel characteristics. One trial involved a deaf and mute teenager. The other, an enquiry really, involved an individual who succumbed to religious fervor to the degree that he was hospitalized on occasion at the state institute for the insane in Augusta. One trial involved what was clearly an example of premeditated murder. It was hideous and gruesome. The other involved what was first thought to be a murder-suicide. Three people died by fire. The former occurred in Parkman, the latter in Guilford.

Newspapers had a field day with the Parkman murder. One reporter went so

far as to say Not even Poe’s The Murders of the Rue Morgue or The Mystery of Marie Roget could “rival in tragic horror the slaying.”

The slain was Alvin Watson. Watson was a Parkman farmer. He is described as “sturdy.” He was killed in June of 1881. He was found dead in his dooryard with gaping knife wounds all over his body. Investigators determined he had been attacked in bed while sleeping. He hadn’t died in bed, though. The kitchen adjoining his bedroom was found in utmost confusion with pools of blood on the floor. Everywhere there were signs of a violent struggle. A window was up, its ledge drenched with blood. There was a forty-foot trail of blood from the window into the dooryard. It appeared Watson’s body had been dragged there by the heels.

Initial suspicion fell upon one Samuel Chadborne, the young son of a neighbor. Chadborne was deaf and mute. He had never received instruction in sign language and only communicated by gestures. The only ones who understood him to any real extent were

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his immediate family.

When Samuel Chadborne was arrested blood stains were found on his clothing. His neck had fresh scratch marks. In addition, a bloody knife, identified as his, was found in the Chadborne house. The clincher was the discovery of his vest in Watson’s house.

The first to call attention to Samuel’s possible guilt were his father, Benjamin, and his brother, Wallace. In fact, they were adamant in their accusations.

This, however, had something of a negative effect. Some began to think that the father and brother might have had a hand in the murder. Indeed, further inquiry resulted in the accumulation of enough evidence to arrest and indict both Benjamin and Wallace Chadborne. It was at this point that a neighbor, an old farmer, stepped in to help defend Samuel. It seems the old man could interpret Samuel to a degree and that Samuel had a story to tell.

Using gestures, Samuel told how his father, his brother and he had come to kill Alvin Watson. In essence the story was told in mime. Samuel pantomimed stealing into Watson’s bedroom. He illustrated the crouching approach of Benjamin Chadborne, knife in hand, behind Watson. In horrific detail he showed his father sinking a knife in the victim’s back and then Watson staggering to the kitchen and the window which he threw up only to receive Wallace’s knife in his throat. What followed was the continued stabbing of the lifeless body.

Benjamin and Wallace Chadborne were convicted. Samuel Chadborne was sent to the Perkins Institute in Boston, a school which specialized in the deaf, dumb and blind. Sadly he drowned after being there but a short time.

One can but think of Shakespeare’s lines from The Merchant of Venice in hearing Samuel Chadborne’s story.

Benjamin Chadborne did not know his son and “murder cannot be hid long.”

The next case, that of Isaac Wharf of Guilford is decidedly different as to the outcome, though just as horrible as to what happened.

Isaac Wharf, his wife, and nephew perished in a fire in their home on February Feb. 4, 1874. Initially Wharf was believed to have set the fire while in a state of religious elation.

As a newly married couple Wharf and his wife were noted as hard-working, down-to-earth people. Then, according to news reports, the couple became “hopefully pious, and exhibited a good degree of religious principle.”

This led to zealous spiritualism, Isaac’s so extreme that he was sent to the asylum in Augusta three or four times. On each return he seemed back to normal.

Then “his spiritism would get stirred up again and dethrone his reason.”

At his worst Wharf was said to plunge “into strange indecencies, again and again, [indecencies that would] so infuriate him that he would destroy both life and property, if not forcibly restrained.”

On his last stay at the asylum Wharf was released as “hopelessly incurable but in a more calm and manageable state.” Then came the fire.

The fire woke everyone in the house about 4:00 a.m. The household included besides the Wharfs, their fourteenyear-old nephew, and husband and wife boarders and their infant. The boarders with their infant got out, fleeing barefoot through the snow to a neighbor’s home about a third of a mile away.

What happened next is conjecture at best. It is included in the inquiry which states, “Mr. Wharf started to go out but bewildered in the dense smoke he missed his way. His wife got safely out but not finding her husband, rushed back to rescue him and perished in her search.” The nephew is believed to have perished in his sleep.

The inquiry determined the fire started in the wood house and spread

from there. Every building on the place burned, including the barn with its stock. One reporter mused the fire could not have been more complete if set by intent. The inquiry determined none were guilty of an intended crime.

But was this the truth of the matter?

With Isaac Wharf’s death there was no one left who knew the truth. Perhaps it would be better to say the truth will become known eventually, or at least it will in some cases.

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Hannaford - Bar Harbor............................................................................20 Hannaford - Ellsworth.................................................................................8 Harris Drug Store....................................................................................51 Harris Point Cabins & Motel....................................................................33 Hearthside B&B......................................................................................22 Herrick Excavation..................................................................................51 High Street Market.................................................................................59 Highland Builders....................................................................................13 Historic McCurdy’s Smokehouse ............................................................54 Hogan Tire..............................................................................................57 Hometown Health Center........................................................................47 Hometown Heat Pumps..........................................................................49 Homewood Farm....................................................................................18 Houlton Towing........................................................................................35 HW Dunn & Son Inc.................................................................................8 Iasco Machine Shop................................................................................27 Ideal Recycling Inc.................................................................................45 International Motel..................................................................................34 Island Auto Repair...................................................................................23 Island Fishing Gear & Auto Parts..............................................................6 J&J Construction....................................................................................30 J. Wilbur Construction.............................................................................62 Jack's Air Service....................................................................................50 Jato Highlands Golf Course....................................................................59 J.D. Brawn Inc. ......................................................................................53 Jeannie's Great Maine Breakfast............................................................23 Jerry's Shurfine.......................................................................................56 Jimar Construction Products LLC...........................................................42 J.M. Brown Construction - General Contractor, Inc. .................................43 John R. Crooker Agency Insurance.........................................................17 John Williams Construction....................................................................44 Johnson Foundations.............................................................................52 Johnson's True Value..............................................................................33 Judd Goodwin Well Company................................................................50 Katahdin Shadows Campground & Cabins.............................................58 KC's Country Store.................................................................................67 Kimball Insurance, L.L.C.........................................................................67 King Construction & Lumber...................................................................61 King's Appliances & Floor Coverings.....................................................47 Ladd Brothers Engine Works..................................................................67 Leclair Construction................................................................................61 Levesque Business Solutions................................................................41 Lighthouse Digest ..................................................................................31 Lighthouse Inn & Restaurant...................................................................21 Lincoln Denture Center...........................................................................59 Lincoln Powersports ...............................................................................60 Llangolan Inn and Cottages.....................................................................23 Loon's Nest Lodge..................................................................................36 Lougee & Frederick's Florist....................................................................39 Lowe's Appraisal Service.......................................................................39 Lubec Hardware.....................................................................................54 Lunt’s Lobster Pound .............................................................................19 Machias Bay Area Chamber of Commerce..............................................14 Machias River Inn...................................................................................30 Machias Wild Blueberry Festival.............................................................29 Magoon Realty, Inc...................................................................................8 Magoon's Transportation & Energy, Inc.....................................................8 Main Street Pawn....................................................................................60 Maine Collision Center............................................................................43 Maine Country Charm Scrapbooking & Cardmaking ..............................36 Maine Dept. of Inland Fisheries & Wildlife .........................................13,46 Maine Equipment Company......................................................................4 Maine Forest Service .........................................................................21,69 Maine Fuels............................................................................................45 Maine Historical Society............................................................................5 Maine Lobstermen’s Association .................................................20,25 Maine Veterans' Homes..........................................................................30 Mainescape Garden Shop........................................................................7 Mattawamkeag Wilderness Park Campground.......................................35 Maynard's in Maine.................................................................................51 McClure Family Funeral Services...........................................................15 McFadden's Variety.................................................................................54 Miller's Workshop...................................................................................63 Moosehead Historical Society & Museums.............................................66 Moosehead Motorsports.........................................................................50 Morrell's Hardware & Home Center.........................................................66 Motel East..................................................................................back cover Narrows Art Gallery ................................................................................64 Newport Glass........................................................................................47 Nook & Cranny Restaurant.....................................................................56 North Country Auto...................................................................................6 North Woods Real Estate.......................................................................35 Oceanville Boatworks, LLC.....................................................................17 Old Creamery Art and Antique Mall.........................................................19 Oli's Trolley..............................................................................................21 Page Farm & Home Museum.................................................................38 Paredes Painting & Pressure Washing, LLC..........................................26 Parker Ridge Retirement Community......................................................18 Pat's Pizza - Orono, Holden & Hampden...............................................39 Paul's Garage.........................................................................................14 Penobscot Marine Museum....................................................................16 Perkco Supply, Inc..................................................................................66 Perry O'Brian Attorney at Law.................................................................62 Pine Grove Crematorium ..........................................................................3 Pleasant Hill Campground......................................................................39 Pugnuts Authentic Italian Gelato, Cakes and Novelties..........................19 Quoddy Properties Property Management ...........................................33 Ramsay Welding & Machine, Inc............................................................59 Ray Builders Inc........................................................................................8 Raymond James Financial Services, Inc. - Brewer .................................43 Raymond James Financial Services, Inc. - Millinocket ..........................36 Raymond's Variety & Diner......................................................................58 Red's Automotive...................................................................................44 ReFind Furnishings................................................................................30 Richard Parks Furniture..............................................................back cover Rick's Repair...........................................................................................67 Rideout's Seasonal Services..................................................................53 Rivers Bend Service, LLC.......................................................................57 River's Edge Motel..................................................................................36

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Robinson's Cottages.....................................................................32 Rocky Shore Realty......................................................................12 Roger's Market Inc........................................................................61 Ronald Harte Antiques...................................................................7 Ronnie's Truck Service.................................................................19 Roosevelt Campobello International Park......................................31 Rooster Brother...............................................................back cover Rowell's Garage Car Wash............................................................68 Rowell’s Garage Sales & Service...................................................68 Royal Indian..................................................................................22 RP Log Homes.............................................................................53 Rt 9 Towing & Recovery.................................................................65 Ruth & Wimpy's Restaurant..........................................................24 S.O.B. Oil & Earthworks Co., LLC................................................61 Sackett & Brake Survey Inc...........................................................53 Salmon Brook Grooming...............................................................57 Salsbury's Organic Garden Supplies.............................................12 Savage Paint & Body....................................................................34 Sawmill Woods Golf Course.........................................................64 Schooner Gallery..........................................................................13 Seal Cove Auto Museum...............................................................20 Seawall Motel...............................................................................20 Sebasticook Valley Federal Credit Union.......................................49 Select Designs & Embroidery........................................................60 Shannon Drilling, Inc.....................................................................31 Shirley's Yarns & Gifts...................................................................25 Sinclair's Home Heating................................................................45 Sips 2.0.........................................................................................20 Sips..........................................................................................20 Snow’s Saw Shop.........................................................................53 Sonye’s Crabmeat Shop ...............................................................25 Southwest Harbor & Tremont Chamber of Commerce....................10 Spruce Mill Farm & Kitchen...........................................................68 St. Croix Valley Chamber of Commerce.........................................55 Stardust Motel...............................................................................35 Steinke & Caruso Dental Care.......................................................4 Stonington Lobster Co-op.............................................................18 Sullivan's Wrecker Service............................................................38 Sunrise Realty...............................................................................15 Sunset Park Marina......................................................................56 T.A. King & Son Building Supplies..................................................29 T.G. Dunn Plumbing, Inc................................................................11 Taylor's Katahdin View Camps......................................................56 That Guy on 9................................................................................64 The Appalachian Trail Lodge & Café.............................................58 The Blacksheep..............................................................................8 The Burning Tree...........................................................................11 The Colony Cottages & Motel........................................................24 The Crocker House Country Inn....................................................25 The Lobstore Seafood Market.......................................................26 The Maine Granite Industry Historical Society Museum...................9 The Merle B. Grindle Insurance Agency .......................................19 The Milbridge House Restaurant...................................................26 The New Friendly Restaurant.......................................................55 The Pioneer Place, U.S.A..............................................................56 The Quoddy Tides.........................................................................55 The Red Barn Motel......................................................................26 There's A Treat Takeout.................................................................17 Thomas Logging & Forestry, Inc...................................................52 Thomas W. Duff Financial Advisor - Brewer ..................................43 Thomas W. Duff Financial Advisor - Millinocket.............................36 Thompson's Hardware Inc............................................................60 Tim Merrill & Co., Inc.....................................................................53 Timberland Trucking Inc................................................................58 Timkin Pike Tires...........................................................................13 Town of Enfield..............................................................................60 Town of Hampden.........................................................................46 Town of Lincoln.............................................................................37 Town of Mars Hill.............................................................................3 Town of Whiting............................................................................54 The Town of Winter Harbor............................................................12 Tri City Pizza.................................................................................63 Tucker Auto Repair.......................................................................65 Ultimate Image Hair Salon............................................................14 U-SAVE Car & Truck Rental ..........................................................49 Vacationland Inns..........................................................................44 Varney's Newport Ford.................................................................65 Vazquez Mexican Food................................................................12 VintageMaineImages.com.....................................................5 Wagner Forest Management, Ltd.................................................63 Walls TV, Appliances & Home Furniture.........................................15 Waponahki Museum & Resource Center .....................................32 Ware's Power Equipment..............................................................58 Washington County Community College.......................................33 WCL Carpentry..............................................................................67 West Market Square Artisan Coffeehouse...................................63 West Quoddy Station on The EasternMost Point..........................15 West's Coastal Connection.............................................................4 Wheaton's Lodge..........................................................................35 Whited Peterbilt Truck...................................................................40 Whiting Bay Bed & Breakfast........................................................54 Whitney's Outfitters.......................................................................60 Whitten's 2-Way Service, Inc.........................................................43 Wilcox Auto...................................................................................39 William Coffin & Sons....................................................................13 Williams & Taplin Well Drilling Services.............................................3 Wilson Pond Camps .....................................................................50 Wilson's On Moosehead Lake.......................................................52 Wing Wah Restaurant ..................................................................59 Winter Harbor Food Service..........................................................12 Winterport Dragway......................................................................45 WK Construction & Sons.............................................................28 Wreaths Across America...............................................................27 Yanni's Pizza...................................................................................7 Yu Takeout ....................................................................................25 Discover Maine

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~ Hancock-Washington-Penobscot Counties ~

Hancock-Washington-Penobscot Counties

Richard Parks Furniture

Making comfort, quality and good design affordable for Maine Your source for all furnishings, inside & out

Rooster Brother The Store for Cooks

132 High St., Ellsworth 667-3615

Cottage & Patio: 993 Bar Harbor Rd., Trenton 667-0400

www.richardparks.com

and those who love them. by the Union River Bridge in Downtown Ellsworth 29 Main Street • 800 866 0054 • 207 667 8675

www.roosterbrother.com or visit us at facebook.com/roosterbrother

Kitchenettes • Spacious Private Baths • Balconies • Cable TV • Free Wi-Fi Open Year-Round • Seaside Cottage Available • Great Views

On the ocean overlooking Roosevelt’s Home!

23A Water Street, Eastport • 207-853-4747 • www.themoteleast.com