Taste Buds

from the AUNT EDITH'S CHICKEN SUPPER | TASTE BUDS kitchen of Saumon de Lannion

This very simple recipe has origins around the city of Lannion in north west France, within the region of Bretagne, which is famed for its salmon fishing during the months of March and April along the river Léguer. Ideal for a long lunch or an outside summer evening supper, I always serve at room temperature to allow guests to pick and choose when they wish to eat and then have more perhaps. The French herb salsa is a delightful must-have for this and I recommend you use fresh herbs, not dried on this time. People tell me that more and more this style of dining is becoming popular, where the main dishes (not buffet) are laid out and one may choose what and how much to eat rather than a more formal set courses menu. I too have liked this on many occasions. The method used here is to cook the fish at a low oven temperature which makes it difficult to overcook mostly. You may also pre-cook this and refrigerate to serve the following day if you wish. I have on many times cooked this by the sous vide method for several hours, producing a beautiful result.

For six: One (2-lb) salmon fillet, pin bones and skin removed; 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil; ¾ teaspoon salt. For the French herb salsa: 3 tablespoons finely diced shallot, from 1 medium shallot; 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar; 2 tablespoons very finely chopped fresh parsley; 1 tablespoon very finely chopped fresh chervil (okay to substitute more parsley if you can't find it); 1 tablespoon very finely chopped fresh chives; 1 tablespoon very finely chopped fresh basil; 1 teaspoon very finely chopped fresh tarragon; 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil; 1/4 teaspoon salt; Freshly ground black pepper. In January I had an email from a lady in Castor who wanted a recommended dish to serve at an informal lunch she was preparing for her lady friends this summer. She particularly likes salmon and was keen not to have to ‘work’ at the food whilst trying to entertain also. Well madame I have just the thing for you and your friends which I think will, as you say, fit the billy.

 Preheat the oven to 100°C and set an oven rack in the middle position. Place the salmon on a baking sheet. Drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle the salt evenly over top.  Slide the pan into the oven and roast for about 50 minutes, until the fish begins to flake in the thickest part of the filet when poked with a knife or your finger. (Because this method is so gentle on its proteins, the fish will appear translucent even when it's cooked.)  Using a small spoon, scrape off any white proteins that may have formed on the salmon. Break the salmon into large, rustic pieces and spoon the French herb salsa (below) over top before serving. This dish can be served hot, cold, or room temperature. For the salsa: In a small bowl, combine the shallot and vinegar and let sit for 15 minutes to macerate. In a separate small bowl, combine the herbs, olive oil, salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Just before serving, add the shallot (but not the vinegar, yet) to the herb oil. Stir, taste, and add the vinegar as needed (I usually add 2 to 3 teaspoons). Taste and adjust salt, if necessary. I serve this with different sides depending on the style of eating. Often a simple large bowl of green, pasta or rice salad with mixed beans, tomatoes, black olives and artichoke hearts, sometimes good quality new potatoes and French beans or maybe a large sauté dish of parmentier or dauphinoise potatoes. A delightful wine to accompany is one of our Chez Pierre most popular, the always reliable lightly-chilled house Sauvignon Blanc.

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