Digital Trends

DIGITAL TRENDS WINTER 2020

LUCIA CHAIN responding to the new

technological developments

WHO IS SHUDU?

creator of the digital supermodel faced criticism

Editor’s Note I

am proud to present the first winter edition of Digital Trends. Fashion is evolving every year. There is more to fashion than just a new garment in our wardrobe. It allows individuals to reflect thoughts and emotions as well as represent important issues throughout their work.

I have created ON-Trend earlier this year to discover and provide a platform for new talents. Today, the fashion industry is facing radical changes and I believe it is Illustration : ILLUSTROKE time for everyone to adapt to them.

Digital Trends is a fashion magazine which will provide a platform for the creatives to share their experience and will educate the reader about the possibilities within the industry.

Winter 2020 issue includes features with digital designers, 3D creators, influencers and explores important issues such as diversity and sustainability.

The past four years of university were challenging, creating a fashion magazine is a great way to finish the degree.

I would like to thank all the creatives who spent their time talking to me and sharing their experience and Aurélie Rossini for writing a column about the serious matter of water pollution. Having so many different voices is what makes this www.ontrendwebsite.wixsite.com/fashion magazine so special.

I would also like to thank my boyfriend, Instagram: @_on_trend family and friends for always supporting me. This magazine is the beginning of my Content and Design created by career and I am grateful that these people Elina Kobzar are a huge part of the journey.

“ Today, fashion industry is facing radical changes and I believe it is time for everyone to adapt to them ”

Elina Kobzar

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The Merge Of Digital And Physical

JULIA SALNIKOVA OFFERS 3D PHOTO SHOOT ALTERNATIVES

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HUM.AI.N Redefining Beauty Standards FIND OUT HOW DIGITAL MODELS TRANSFORM ONLINE FASHION SHOWS

Models 12| Digital Are Not Robots

VIRTUAL INFLUENCER, IVAANY, RAISING VOICE FOR CHANGE

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Fashion Brands Left Behind Technological Developments

THE DIGITAL MARY EXPANDING NEW HORIZONS

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The Industry Needs A Paradigm Shift

HOW OUR WARDROBE AFFECTS WATER POLLUTION?

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Complementary Language

LUCIA CHAIN RESPONDING TO THE NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS

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THE FIRST DIGITAL FASHION STUDIO IN PRAGUE CONNECTS FASHION AND TECHNOLOGIES

Who Is Shudu?

CREATOR OF THE DIGITAL SUPERMODEL FACED CRITICISM

The Digital Village Creates A Hope For Sustainable Future

NEW PLATFROM AIMS TO SHOWCASE EMERGING 3D DESIGNERS

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OFFORM3D Introducing Digital Workshops

BrandLab Replicates Physical Showrooms

DESIGNED TO STREAMLINE SHOPPING INDUSTRY

Digital Tips

3D CREATORS SHARED THEIR TIPS AND ROUTINE

How To Survive Fashion Crisis 3DRESSMAKER BELIEVE DIGITALIZATION CAN CONNECT PEOPLE

THE MERGE OF PHYSICAL AND DIGITAL Julia Salnikova Offers 3D Photo Shoot Alternatives

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ulia Salnikova, 24, is a Moscow-based 3D artist and set designer.

She collaborates with the international brands as well as managing social media accounts of the virtual models.

Julia began her career in London where she graduated with the interior and spatial design degree. “During my studies I had to visualize spaces I was designing but back then 3D was not as big as it is now. It was not until my last year of university that I stumbled across some digital artworks on Instagram.”

The designer was interested in art since her childhood but never considered 3D as a professional career until she got her first PC last summer.

While working on a new project, Julia is focusing on producing still images and digital avatars. She also wants to develop her skills and work on animations and 3D films.

“There are so many brands and artists I would love to collaborate with. Tyler, the Creator would be a dream come true. Also, I am a big fan of animations like Despicable Me or The Incredibles.”

The tip Julia would give to anyone who wants to create digitally is to be patient.

“Just like everything else practice is key and there is always a process of trial and error.”

Julia also agrees that technical aspects are never exciting but “once you get used to it, you will start to enjoy it.”

“ I think soon there will be nothing we cannot experience digitally ” Julia admits that as a set designer, it is difficult to build your vision in life, especially if you are on a low budget. It was the moment when Julia realised that she can offer digital alternatives.

The designer starts creating her 3D world by exploring a concept or theme. Following by the mood boards and discussion with the photographer. After the photo shoot, the photos proceed to the 3D software to build up the scene. “When the environment feels render-ready I move it onto Photoshop to combine with photos of models.”

Julia believes that 3D allows more freedom as unrealistic settings can be designed.

It helps to merge both the physical and digital worlds. The whole process reminds Julia of a more complex version of the life simulation video game, Sims.

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The 3D community supports each other and it helped Julia with the projects. “There is always someone who can help you out if you have a problem. I never felt like it is a competition between us.”

The only thing Julia would change is to have fewer designers who copy each other.

She believes that everyone should show individuality in work.

“I think soon there will be nothing we cannot experience digitally. I do feel like working in 3D is getting more popular. The industry is expanding as we speak.”

With the 3D software developments, everything is moving towards the Augmented reality. “I don’t think digital sets will completely replace the physical ones but now I cannot even imagine not having this option.”

3D Design : Julia Salnikova Photo : Bogdan Bogdanov Model: Anisia Khurmatulina Styling: An Kosulina Styling Assistant: Victoria Hair: Alexey Yaroslavtsev MUA : Mary

DIGITAL MODEL AGENCY HUM.AI.N

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very season the designers are looking for the models to represent their collections at the fashion weeks or the advertisement campaigns. This year the modelling industry is undergoing a radical reformation. The fashion shows are moving online and digital models are becoming an enormous part of it.

Richard Thornn is a co-founder, creative director at NAMESldn and creator behind the Artificial Intelligence model agency, HUM.AI.N. Both of the projects were created to “show that digital is not a quick fix for physical but rather a permanent tool, as we create the new norm in the new world.” The creator has worked in the fashion industry over 15 years and now represents the digital space which aims to change individuals views on the technological developments.

The idea to create HUM.AI.N has always been something Richard wanted to bring to life, due to the pandemic, the process accelerated. “We have taken the physical and outdated fashion model from the runway shows and breathe new life into it.”

NAMESldn has partnered with the leading 3D fashion studio Rendoo Lab to create new digital faces. Three unique models were introduced to the world this year, Java, Mosi and UNIX. The trio is redefining the modern idea of beauty and making a dent in the fashion industry.

Mainstream magazines tend to show flawless models with perfectly proportioned bodies. It puts pressure on the individuals as they start to think that there is a certain beauty standard. Richard believes that digitalization has changed how young consumers relate to beauty and fashion.

“Digital natives want to see a changing face of beauty - unpolished, raw, and real. Beyond defined jawlines, sharp cheekbones, and unattainably slender figures, beauty is moving forward into unfiltered versions of perfection.”

Richard feels strong about the diversity and inclusion, he aims to create the digital army to show different sizes, shapes, gender and races.

“We are working on several projects right now.

I see this digital platform becoming the new digital net-a-porter, the digital Wilhelmina.”

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REDEFINING BEAUTY STANDARDS HUM.AI.N models differ from each other and represent a beauty diversity. Everything the magazines are trying to hide under the photo edit.

Java is a freckled model which exemplifies the vast spectrum of beauty skin.“We believe that old concepts of pore-free beauty are no longer relevant. The beauty industry needs a revival and hyper-pigmented are the new ideal.”

Mosi also aims to inspire others to feel confident about their skin. The model has autoimmune skin disorder, vitiligo. Richard believes that “skin diversity is here to stay” and they can show the beauty of it with the new model.

The last model is Unix who is breaking the barrier and celebrates acceptance of the transgender identity. “Their porcelain skin and ethereal only add verve to their ingrained message of strength and radical desire to shine a light on LGBTQIA+ issues.”

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3D DESIGNS : Rendooo Lab HUM.AIN NAMES DIGITAL

Although each model takes around three months to be created, it is a sustainable way which influences the audience and allows to showcase designers work while physical fashion shows are out of the picture.

Richard believes there are always advantages and disadvantages to any project. “I am going to focus on the advantages as digital models minimising the carbon footprint and creatives are not restricted to the time or venues.”

HUM.AI.N operates as a usual model agency. Designers can send their garments to try on and it can be created at the digital atelier. NAMESdigital was created in 2019 and has a variety of virtual garments and objects to explore.

“ Digital natives want to see a changing face of beauty unpolished, raw, and real ” “Each room is unique and different.

We work with the designers to bring the collection to live without physical limitations.” Apart from the digital garments, the designers have an option to hire a hair and make up artists to create any look and feel they want.

Digital models became a new tool which allows designers to showcase their work.

However, Richard wants to emphasize that “no jobs are taken from anyone.”

The creator works alongside models to make sure his digital creations are posing, looking the right way in the images and campaigns. HUM.AI.N models are the new technological innovation which is not here to replace the humans but otherwise, show a new approach to the fashion beauty.

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DIGITAL MODELS ARE NOT ROBOTS Virtual Influencer, Ivaany, Raising Voice for Change

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3D Designs : Tatyana Jerome

he virtual influencers are taking over our Instagram feed as it becomes a new futuristic approach for the brands and social media users.

Ivaany is a French, Brazilian and Creole virtual influencer. She is a model, dancer and aspiring actress.

Ivaany is an inspiration for the young girls.

She proves that no matter who you are or what background you come from, everyone deserves to be treated equally.

Ivaany’s creator, 26-year-old Tatyana J. believes that it is her role to raise awareness on the important matters such as the black community and feminism. “I want to show the beauty of black women as I feel like nowadays things are getting worse for us.”

Tatyana is a self-taught artist who started her career with the 2D designs and now is the co-founder of the French digital model Agency Maison Amany. The creator always felt that she was underrepresented in the society.

“I grew up in a generation where black woman, especially dark skin woman was not very much present in the magazine and media. I remember how this affected me.”

Tatyana started experimenting with 3D models while she was studying in Paris and remembers her first work being more cartoonish compare to Ivaany which she created 2 years ago. “When I started there was not a lot of virtual influencers, especially in France. I think it helped me to stand out.”

The creator believes that digital models are the future of the fashion industry but it takes lots of time to create. “I have to be very well prepared and keep in mind that I cannot do everything even if I wish I could.”

While working on the new projects, Tatyana likes to see the latest graphic trends.

“If I work with a fashion designer I check their social media to see their feed and clothing collection. I want to make something that will represent both of us.”

Although creators stay faceless they play a crucial part in choosing how their digital models look, dress, act and who they collaborate with.

The digital model Ivaany recently worked with brands such as Unspun, DaoLondon and Juan de La Paz. Ivaany also took part at the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week which was a great opportunity to get more visibility and showcase what the model is capable of.

“I love seeing brands working with virtual influencer, this gives me hope for the future of this new industry.”

According to the creator, digital models can develop and be used for chatbot, virtual rooms, teaching platforms, social media, movies and events. There are far more than a robot which is a common misconception. “I think a robot is a machine with a mechanic program and digital models are not. However, I believe it takes time for people to understand.”

At the moment digital creator Tatyana is working on the animation skills and continue collaborating with the fashion designers. The creator aims to climb new heights within the fashion world with her digital model Ivaany. “It is still very new to me. I am learning every day and want to see myself more as an artist with a message.”

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3D Designs : THE DIGITAL MARY

FASHION BRANDS LEFT BEHIND TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS THE DIGITAL MARY EXPANDING NEW HORIZONS

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irst words make you dive into the work environment THE DIGITAL MARY faces on the daily basis over the last half a year. “I am trying to save my latest work for the project so the client can access various stages of the design.”

Mary, 22, is a digital fashion designer and pattern maker. She began her career at the mass market factory in Ukraine. During the pandemic, the factory financially collapsed and Mary decided to leave the job and move to another town.

“My motivation to start digital design was the lack of choice. To learn everything I know now, I was going through 16 hours of unpaid work every day. I wanted to give up but I constantly reminded myself that I was doing this for my future.”

While working at the factory, Mary familiarized herself with the prices, market and the process behind every garment.

“I soon realized that I don’t like how clothes is presented.”

Mary believes that the future is now behind the 3D programs. It saves time, money and human resources. Instead of using materials, software’s such as CLO3D allow to make changes just with few clicks without harming the environment.

Despite Mary’s aspiration, Ukrainian fashion brands were left behind and are not aware of the digital alternatives. “At the beginning, I never had a client from my hometown, it is not as developed here.

I think recently Ukrainian brands started to understand what changes digital design can make for their business.”

The underpaid labour is still an issue for some countries. Even after the collapse of the major factories such as Rana Plaza, people behind the production are not treated the way they deserve. Majority of clothing chains still focus on the quantity rather than the quality.

“I know that for Ukraine, digital designs can be more expensive than the physical ones. I think 3D will work for the smaller independent brands or big chains who can afford it.”

Mary suggested that digital advertisement can be an alternative for everyone.

Recently she worked on the digital advert for the UEFA Champions League in collaboration with Antol Alfy.

“The advert was watched on the official page by 675,000 people. More than half a million people looked at our work.

I cannot even describe how proud I felt.”

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As well as the digital adverts, the designer was involved in Global Talents Digital.

Mary was transferring photographs and sketches into the 3D garments which were showcased at the fashion shows.

“I remember I had more than 10 hours difference with the Australian designer.

It was challenging. We had to wake up early or stay up until five in the morning to make it possible.” Mary believes what made it work is the passion everyone had.

“I think that’s the main thing, you can’t do something to the high standards if you are not enjoying the process.”

Futuristic approach can be found in Mary’s work. The designer chooses robots as her models instead of the digital characters.

“ It is important to stay truthful to yourself ” “Some people asked me why I do not create more realistically, but I had clients who said that they want to collaborate with me just because they like my style.”

Every product has its market, client, price.

Not only digital fashion might not suit every designer or brand, but the style does not always fit the client needs. One of the advice Mary gave is that with every project, “it is important to stay truthful to yourself.”

In the nearest future Mary is aiming to have her digital brand. The designer wants to create digital designs in every size, for the customer to see how it will look before the purchase. “I also see myself as a motion designer, it is a bit different, but I think life is changing for everyone. It is important to keep educating yourself and expanding your horizons.”

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THE INDUSTRY NEEDS A PARADIGM SHIFT

Aurélie Rossini , Director Of Drip by Drip, Explains How Our Wardrobe Affects Water Pollution

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n the last decades, our personal and professional lives have become increasingly digitalized, so did fashion.

Recently, the Internet has proven to be the interconnection tool at a time where social distancing and global lockdown had to be applied. When cancelling all physical events and workshops, the digital option turns out the best alternative to pursue the education and promotion of fashion around the globe, reaching out to an audience sitting at home.

We need to find the right balance between physical and digital to benefit from the advantages of the two, while minimizing their side effects.

The textile industry has a significant impact on our planet. It is one of the world’s most polluting industries. According to 2015 reports, the sector was responsible for the consumption of 79 billion cubic meters of water, the emission of 1,715 million tons of CO2 and the production of 92 million tons of waste.

The 2019 Pulse of the Fashion Industry report further estimates a global growth of clothing demand by 81% through 2030.

Under a business-as-usual scenario, our fashion consumption and production habits will only put more and more pressure on our environment and water resources.

Sustainability in fashion is not only important but crucial to preserve our water resources. While nearly 70% of our world is covered by water, only 2,5% of it is fresh water. To date, the sector has failed to manage water sustainably; rather it has been viewed as an unlimited resource.

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Drip by Drip exists to find, develop and spread solutions to the water pollution and over-consumption. Following a global coalition call by WWF this summer, we are working with international organizations on a global action plan to sustain the recovery of the industry and help speed up the change . Also, within our BLUE LAB, we help fashion brands to implement better water management practices and bring more transparency.

Covid-19 has turned the world upside down and put all of us in the same boat.

In the same boat, because a virus does not discriminate, it doesn’t choose based on skin tone, nationality, religion or gender.

visit waterplaybook.net to CALCULATE the water in your wardrobe However, one could observe that we are unequally equipped to face the challenges.

Covid-19 has brought to light the interconnection between fashion consumption habits in the Western countries and their direct impacts on the garment workers health and employment conditions as well as on the water resources in the producing countries.

As a result, we are now seeing a growing number of consumers willing to make more sustainable purchase.

I like to say that everyone has a role to play.

From consumers and designers to manufacturers, fashion labels, NGOs and public organisations. Together, we can spark change. We can ensure that post Covid-19 era means a more sustainable fashion, respectful of the environment and human beings.

BY AURELIE ROSSINI

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COMPLEMENTARY LANGUAGE COMPLEMENTARY LANGUAGE

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Lucia Chain Responding To The New Technological Developments Emerging Designers Are Facing

igital fashion shows became a phenomenon this year. Although, fashion lovers were able to keep up to date with the newest collections from the comfort of their own home, the designers faced the challenges to make this achievable.

Lucia Chain, 32, is a sustainable fashion designer based in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Lucia began her career in her hometown where she completed the postgraduate degree in Sportswear Design and later took part at the Fashion Business scholarship in Paris.

Today Lucia is an award-winning designer, her work is part of the exhibition at the Salvatore Ferragamo, the fashion museum in Italy. She showcases her work internationally and got recognized by the publications like Vogue Italia and Vogue Talents as the “next green talent.”

The designer launched her brand CHAIN in 2017 and is known for producing sustainable garments. CHAIN is a plastic-free brand, which aims to replace microfibers with natural materials such as hand-dyed cotton and recycled wood while creating the accessories.

Lucia was raised by her grandmother. She was a tailor and the one who taught Lucia how to sew and embroider. “My parents were also such an inspiration for me, they taught me the importance of earth, nature, being vegetarian, to respect all human beings. This is the reason of my sustainable approach.”

Lucia believes that the fashion industry needs to be “transparent, inclusive and collaborative”, by having new technological developments, it is even more possible to achieve nowadays.

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3D Designs : THE DIGITAL MARY Designer: Lucia Chain

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The designers had limited opportunities to showcase their work this year. Many organizations, including Mercedes-Benz, who were contributing to the fashion industry since 1995, are unable to host annual fashion shows.

One of the new projects Lucia was part of is the Global Talents Digital which was created by the Russian Fashion Council.

It allowed to present the garments, made by the emerging designers, in a fresh format. “I think with digital events you can show your concept in a surreal atmosphere, as well as, imagine and design avatars and garments within limitations.”

Lucia already took part at the Russian, Bolivian and Argentine digital fashion weeks and aims to present her work again this winter. She describes the process as a “unique experience which allows to tell the story without the time restrictions.”

Digital differs from the traditional events as designers are not representing physical garments. From Lucia’s experience designers can be invited 15 days before the show, which puts pressure to create digital product in a short period of time.

For Lucia’s debut, she collaborated with the international 3D designers. She found the experience as an amazing knowledge swap. The preparation before the show relies on the trust between both sides and Lucia admitted that it is important to be confident in every creative she works with.

“We have limited time and I want to know that my work will be done in a great and original way.”

Lucia compares digital fashion to an artisanal work. She believes that every digital designer can make a lot of things visible to the audience and talk about sustainability in a contemporary way.

“ I think WITH DIGITAL EVENTs YOU CAN SHOW YOUR CONCEPT IN A SURREAL ATMOSPHERE ” The environmental damage is increasing as the fashion industry grows. Lucia believes it is now time for the designers to take actions. She suggests that digital designs can minimize the impact as they are only produced by order.

“Digital fashion is the right direction for a sustainable future.” It brings new vision on the industry and a new approach for the designers which they never considered before.

“I think 3D visuals provide an opportunity to explore different languages, landscapes and experiment with new textures without using the physical materials.”

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For Lucia, awareness is the future of the fashion industry. She enjoyed collaborating with the creatives as well as working in the new media. “It is amazing to work with digital influencers. They have an audience that believes in a different and possible future. I will collaborate every time because it is an incredible experience that makes me learn a lot.”

Despite the advantages, some aspects cannot replace the traditional catwalks.

Before the pandemic, Lucia had an opportunity to showcase her work at the international fashion weeks in England, Italy, France, Finland, Uruguay, Chile, USA, Costa Rica, Germany, Russia and Japan.

“The sensations, the feelings, the emotions you have when you assist to a fashion show, is something unique.”

From the beginning, fashion shows were impossible to attend unless you were working within the industry. Nowadays, everyone can watch it digitally and Lucia believes it can lose the sense of exclusivity.

“It is important to educate yourself about the new technological developments and to improve the way you design” but “I think digital fashion shows will remain as a complementary language.”

“ Digital fashion is the right direction for the sustainable future ” 24 | Digital Trends

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HAND POURED & HA AD NED IP HANDM NOBUURSEHDE & Y HANDMADE IN BUSHEY

“ Creating a digital design eliminates carbon footprint, consumes less water, and saves a lot of the energy that is needed to produce samples �

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OFFORM3D INTRODUCING DIGITAL WORKSHOPS

The First Digital Fashion Studio In Prague, Czech Republic, Connects Fashion And Technologies

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fform3D is focusing on converting 2D patterns to 3D, customizing avatars and organising weekly workshops for the designers. The business been operating for 4 months and already helped emerging designers and brands transform their work into new digital formats.

The manager, Barbara Ciharova, explains that it all started unexpectedly. “The company ILA applied for the fashion grants, and they were looking for people who will want to take over the project.”

A small team was formed as a result, however, as it was a new business in the Czech market, they had to learn everything in a short time. “It was a crazy start. We had to watch tutorials and videos about the CLO3D daily.”

Barbara believes that 3D designs are the future of the fashion industry. “We went through this to educate ourselves and others.”

After the first master class, Ofform3D team was impressed by how quickly individuals were able to learn new skills.

The master class is designed for people with a fashion background. Barbara suggests that it is important to know the basics on how the garment is produced traditionally before starting creating in a new medium.

“New customers were able to create simple garments such as a t-shirt just after the first lesson and we think it can progress even further.”

Although a new project received positive recognition, some individuals were concerned about the fact that Ofform3D is erroding traditional craft. “People think if you can’t hold the material in your hands, it has nothing to do with the design.”

3D fashion may look like a replacement, however, Ofform3D looks at it as an environmentally friendly alternative.

Fast fashion brands producing garments which the customer can touch and try on but every unsold item end up at the waste as a result.

In contrast, digital collections can be adjusted to the customers preferences. The colours, textures and every detail can be changed before the production.

The 360 degrees visualization allows you to view the product from every angle without using the materials. “Creating a digital design eliminates carbon footprint, consumes less water, and saves a lot of the energy that is needed to produce samples.”

Ofform3D believes that not everyone can create digital clothes “but it is important to have platforms such as ours to raise awareness on the new technological developments.”

WHO IS SHUDU?

Creator Of the Digital Supermodel Faced Criticism

3D Design : The Diigitals Photo : Emmanuel Oyeleke Model Muse : Alexandra Maleek MUA : CassKoncept Blazer : Knanfe

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3D Designs : The Diigitals

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hudu is the world’s first digital supermodel. Social media users heard about Shudu in 2017 when a famous make-up company, Fenty-Beauty, reposted an Instagram image of her wearing one of the lipstick shades. Now, Shudu launched campaigns with brands such as Balmain, Ferragamo, Louis Vuitton and Samsung.

The model aims to inspire others and bring empowerment and diversity to the fashion industry with the help from her creator Cameron James Wilson.

Cameron, 30, is a former fashion photographer who worked with models such as Gigi Hadid. He also spend several years working at the beauty sector as a make-up artist and hairdresser. Over the time he reached the point where he was not interested in his career anymore.

“Shudu changed everything, she became a huge part of my life. She is a friend that does not exist. It is a very strange feeling.

Throughout my life, I met people who have inspired me and all of them contributed to who she was.”

For his first digital creation, Cameron used a program called Dazz 3D and watched several YouTube tutorials. “One of the tutorials was based on how to make a doughnut in Blender Guru. I do not use it now but this foundation helped me with 3D.” Photographer background also allowed Cameron to understand the process behind each image. He compared the creation of the digital model to the work with Photoshop. “Most of my work as a photographer was about retouching skins so I had a really good understanding of how she supposed to look.”

The creator combined his knowledge and made people believe that Shudu exists as an individual. Even now followers are confused while seeing Cameron behind Shudu’s social media.

“I did an Instagram live recently and people were asking who I was and where is Shudu. I always try to emphasize that she is a digital creation, but some people still do not understand it.”

Cameron created Shudu as he believes that the 3D world underrepresents people from different backgrounds.

“I am aware of the lack of diversity representation in games, especially when it comes to dark skin women. It always stood out to me.” Cameron thinks that there was never enough choices in the games, starting from the hairstyles.

At the beginning, Cameron wanted to create an influential image. Today, the creator collaborates with models to use motion-caption technology which allows to make Shudu more realistic. However, in Cameron’s opinion “there is still a long way for digital models to be able to recreate humans’ behaviours.”

There are critiques about Cameron earning money instead of providing a job for the real models. The creator stated that “it is not the case.” Cameron wanted to represent black women in a beautiful and positive way but the fact that Shudu was created by a white man created controversy.

Cameron found it difficult to deal with critiques towards him and his creation.

“Having so many people saying what you are doing is wrong or try to make out that you are a bad person can be a difficult thing to deal with, especially if you struggle with your mental health.”

The creator agrees that you should face criticism, but he can only understand constructed one. Cameron always tried to engage with the individuals. He thinks now it is his role to educate the audience about the idea behind the digital model.

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THE DIGITAL VILLAGE CREATES A HOPE FOR SUSTAINABLE FUTURE New Platfrom Aims to Showcase Emerging 3D Designers

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3D Designs : Nursah Kardas

he Digital Village is a platform that hosts 3D events as part of the Helsinki Fashion Week (HFW). The project represents transparency, social equality and collective effort.

The company was launched this summer by 27-year-old Evelyn Mora. Evelyn is a sustainability consultant, strategist and entrepreneur who is leading multiple organisations. The Digital Village is an international and inclusive platform which connects creatives, promotes co-creation and motivates to create a new relationship within the digital society.

“It was created to showcase the HFW designers but starting 2021 it will allow showings for other global fashion weeks.”

Evelyn selects residents with her team, she explains that it involves 24 step criteria.

“This year digital designers had to create one independent look with one of our sustainable selected designers prior to the event and develop independent digital show.”

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Nursah Kardas, 23, is one of the digital designers who took part in the new project and believes that it is a great opportunity.

“It increases my enthusiasm to know that I work in a world that reaches a completely different level every day and is open to development and creativity.”

The 3D designer was concerned about the new trend created by retailers. “The quarantine fashion encouraged everyone to buy new pyjamas and comfy clothes.” She believes that it is difficult to change the world’s mindset but events like the Digital Village help to create a future.”

Sustainability is fundamental for Evelyn.

“At our event, you will only find designers who have implemented sustainability into their core businesses from the raw material sourcing to brands’ mission and values.”

Evelyn and Nursah both agree that sustainability is something everyone can practice every day.

“However, I do not think that digital fashion shows alone can prevent fast fashion or change the fashion industry.

They can be unsustainable too and this is the reason why we recently launched a Digital sustainability report”, says Evelyn.

The official report states that in 2018, 8000 visitors attended the physical fashion show in Helsinki. The guests were travelling from different parts of the world to see the latest collections, it caused 1,060,000 kg of carbon dioxide emissions. In comparison, digital fashion show 2020 statistic showed that 719,000 visitors attended the Digital Village which caused 430,000 kg of carbon dioxide emissions.

Evelyn believes that it allows to analyze and compare data to improve in the future.

“These unprecedented times certainly acted as an accelerator in a process of innovation we expected for the next years or even decades and they will have a strong impact on the digitalization of our lives.”

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BRANDLAB REPLICATING PHYSICAL SHOWROOMS New Appointment Allows 360 Degrees Retail Experience

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randLab is an innovative digital software designed to offer virtual reality showrooms as well as live events and appointments.

Dan O’Connell and Jennifer Drury created a new platform after experiencing inefficiencies of the wholesale industry.

Jennifer is a fashion buyer who recognized the obstacles of trying to buy from multiple fashion brands with different distribution models and found it difficult to discover new brands at declining trade shows. Dan also felt frustrated by the industry. He believes that there is a lack of sales generated at expensive sale events and laborious ordering processes.

“The idea for BrandLab was born to enable buyers to explore new collections without stepping a foot outside their office or store.”

The business expanded in 2017 when Dan and Jennifer decided to digitalise the sales appointments. The virtual reality showrooms, allowed brands to virtually sale their garments. Moreover, the video chat adds an option to create a real experience without going to the store.

During the pandemic, it became even more relevant and received recognition from emerging designers, high street and luxury brands. Shop retailers began to transform their stores into 3D simulations which allowed to save businesses.

“For brands, the ability to maintain customer relationships in a world where they could not meet face-to-face was very important, and we are the only business to offer this type of immersive and interactive showroom appointment.”

The showroom offers the 360 degrees view of the store with the option to find out more about the product and price as well as to view a video or images. It allows to save time travelling to the store but also helps the environment.

“ buyers typically taking up to 80 flights a year to visit fashion showrooms ” Dan stated that with “some buyers typically taking up to 80 flights a year to visit fashion showrooms, the impetus was already on the industry to come up with more sustainable solutions.” He suggests that a majority of customers do not plan returning to the usual shopping experience.

“Virtual reality was once seen as a marketing gimmick. Now it is not only a solution to the problems the industry is currently facing, but the obvious answer to reduce costs through travel, physical builds and clothes wastage.”

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DIGITAL TIPS

NICK DEHADRAY is the owner of a fashion technology company. Nick’s friend offered him to experiment with a 3D software back in 2016, however, at that period the business was taking most of his time. “It was a fun hobby which gained some interest and a few jobs.”

Now, the creator works on developing digitised design and manufacturing service, using Unreal engine and virtual studios for fashion content, as well as, encouraging brands to use digital assets.

Nick believes that digital fashion can save the environment by reducing waste in the sampling process. It is one of the reasons he began the 3D career.

With the technological developments there are also a lot of opportunities for the designers. To begin with, it is important to download and try different software’s such as Clo3D, Cinema4D and 3ds Max. “Figure out which aspect you enjoy. The field is massive. You can choose from 3D sampling, texturing, modelling, lighting, animation and virtual avatars.”

He encourages individuals to try and create new designs on a regular basis.

“Use online tutorials, there are loads of them. Also find people interested in the same area and collaborate, other designers, are all lovely and helpful.”

Nick thinks that pandemic gave an enormous boost for the digital fashion and it is important to develop knowledge and skills to create a new zero-waste future.

36 | Digital Trends

“ The field is massive.

You can choose from 3D sampling, texturing, modelling, lighting, animation and virtual avatars ”

3D Designs : Nick Dehadray

3D Design : Merve Bozkurt Akgun

3D Design : Rahul Verma

RAHUL VERMA is a digital fashion design consultant and co-founder of NOFORM, the digital design studio based in India. “Our goals is to help other businesses to rethink fashion for the future and visualize it digitally, from concept to the end product.”

Rahul came up with the idea of his brand after working in the fashion industry for several years. He believes that it was an unsustainable way of creating clothes and wanted to make changes. NOFORM aims to address environmental challenges, and educate individuals.

When Rahul starts a new project the first step for him is communication and exchange with the client. “My routine involves spending a lot of time on the computer, browsing, reading up, and dabble with all kinds of digital tools.”

Rahul suggests that it is important to be proactive and educate yourself. “Most of the learning resources are online and free.

Even by using a digital tool, you can develop your aesthetics and style.”

Apart from the online tutorials, social media became a helpful source where individuals can meet other creatives.

“I would say don’t be afraid of reaching out to people. You should join a Slack or Facebook group and become part of the community.”

Rahul also adds that “perfection will come with time and practice.” Individuals need to stay patient and believe in their abilities.

MERVE BOZKURT AKGÜN worked as a fashion designer for eleven years before she discovered 3D. “I have tried CLO3D while I was pregnant and it became my passion. I felt like I found myself.”

Although, CLO3D allows to create a variety of garments, Merve also suggests to look at other softwares. With the new technological developments, there are so many options to discover.

Merve is fascinated by the 3D design since she was a child. “I always loved computer games such as Sims and the digital world itself.”

The creator believes that it is important to enjoy the process. While working on the new designs Merve begins with the concept, which she thinks can develop unexpectedly. “I always love leaving everything to my creativity. I think 3D allows you to express yourself in drawing and helps to develop your style.”

Anyone can get access to the social media and create similar designs. However, it is all about uniqueness. Creativity may not come straight away but Merve suggests that no one should give up. “Work hard and believe in yourself.”

Even after experiencing 3D for 5 years, Merve agrees that she can learn so much more about it. “I am currently working as a 3D designer for an international company.

I’m still learning something new every day and want to develop my skills.”

Winter 2020 | 37

HOW TO SURVIVE FASHION CRISIS

3D Design : 3Dressmaker

3D Connects People From Around The World

P

andemic shifted fashion industry.

The crisis showed that some fashion companies and independent businesses are more equipped than others.

3Dressmaker team believes that with the right tools, you can discover innovative ways to produce garments. “Digitalization will have an influence and will become the new standard of our lives.”

3Dressmaker was found in 2017 by Bahar.

She frequently challenged the relations of fashion with different disciplines. “I felt the need to open a space where I could blend all the knowledge and experiences I gained after school.”

The co-founder of 3Dressmaker is Bahar’s university friend Yagmur. Their friendship began with the same interests in science fiction movies, series, electronic music and the unusual conversations.

Yagmur is interested in computerized systems and tools and studied database programming in school. After graduating from the fashion design course and internship in London, Yagmur decided to combine both of her interests.

38 | Digital Trends

Today, Bahar and Yagmur have a professional team behind their business.

“Our team lives in different parts of the world. It is exciting to come together and have different experiences in new projects.”

Compare to the traditional methods, 3D innovations allow to work from home and connect with creatives from all over the world. The team believes that the most important part is to have the knowledge and understanding of what you are trying to achieve as a brand.

“We think the difficulties are minimized if the customers clearly state what they want and follow the schedule with us.” It is a team process which could be done from anywhere in the world.

“ Material knowledge and pattern making also play a crucial role ” Although it may look like without the rendering knowledge there is no reason adapting your brand to the new formats.

3Dressmakers emphasize that it is not the main aspect while creating digitally.

“We have a very talented and visionary team to make it look realistic in the digital environment.”

However, 3Dressmaker’s believe that it is not enough to achieve the success in the digital fashion industry. “Material knowledge and pattern making also play a crucial role in this.”

3Dressmakers team has experience in different disciplines to make the business work. It is all the learning process to which everyone can adapt to.

Winter 2020 www.ontrendwebsite.wixsite.com/fashion