Swanky Retreats

N

+

ca

$6.95 US display until Jan 3, 2018 $8.95 CANADA swankyretreats.com

Ameri h t Ŭ

London, Mozambique, 7HWLDURD %ŬGHDX[ The Bahamas & PŬH

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR IN CHIEF SWANKY RETREATS SALES DIRECTOR: Partners@SwankyRetreats.com www.SwankyRetreats.com Swanky Retreats (Volume 2, Issue 3; ISSN 2469-6854) Published Quarterly by Caribbean Living Magazine, Inc., 10097 Cleary Blvd, Plantation, FL 33324. ©2017 by Swanky Retreats Magazine, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Publisher assumes no liability for the representations contained herein.

Swanky Retreats is not responsible for the return or care of unsolicited material. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the prior written consent of Swanky Retreats or Caribbean Living Magazine, Inc. Printed in the USA

Image Cover Credit: The Delano Beach Club, South Beach, Florida

On Instagram @SwankyRetreats

On Twitter @SwankyRetreats

On Facebook Facebook.com/SwankyRetreats

It’s Autumn!

I wait all year for this season, the one where everything seems richer, cozier, snuggling becomes commonplace and travel takes on a new dimension. This is my season. This issue we are scoping out some of the swankiest places to dine, sip and stay all around North America, but you know us…we take you all around the world; it’s our thing. Cruise around South Beach with us and see Miami Beach through the eyes of Swanky, from cabanas at The Delano to Española Way’s Spanish style. You’ll be spending this season and next at some of our latest finds.

High-tech sips in California that will have you running to Palmaz Vineyards and Swanky nights in some of America’s more conservative cities. We have you covered from glamping in Oregon to Swellegant Stays in Rhode Island and a lot of places in between. I hear you packing your new suitcase already but relax with this issue and make your travel plans after reading.

Just because the focus is on North America, doesn’t mean we aren’t above tempting you with a South Pacific getaway or taking you far away to an island in Mozambique. We travel outside the obvious and hope to see you on your next trip. Tweet us, tag along on Instagram or start a conversation with us on Facebook.

We are always eager to catch up with our friends, so please reach out and stay tuned for some great social media fun this season and next.

See you soon,

Peta

CONTENTS

2

4-5 | OUT & ABOUT

10-19 | SWELLEGANT STAYS

20-27 | A ROAD LESS TRAVELED

28-43 | LETTERS FROM

45-50 | JOIN ME IN NAPLES...PUTTIN' ON THE RITZ

52-57 | SWANKY NIGHTS: PROVIDENCE AND SAN JOSE

58-68 | GOING WITH THE FLOW IN BORDEAUX

70-80 | ADRENALINE RUSH

82-86 | SWANKY SIPS: PALMAZ VINEYARD

SwankyRetreats.com

THE SWANK TEAM

ALEXANDRA MAE

ANDREW INNERARITY

ANN MARIE SCHEIDLER

EDITOR-AT-LARGE When you look up "wanderlust" in the dictionary odds are that a picture of me is in the definition.

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY I Prefer to let the images do the talking.

EDITOR-AT-LARGE "Thailand was the trip of a lifetime for this Chicago girl...a sensory overload in the best of ways. The people, the food, the landscape: all unforgettable."

AVA ROSALES

DANIELLE KRAUSE

DYLAN BENOIT

FEATURES EDITOR So, what’s the best part of traveling?

Meeting new people and immersing myself in the culture!

EDITOR-AT-LARGE Exploring the fascinating variety of this exquisitely beautiful blue planet nourishes and fulfills my spirit. Being able to delight and inspire you, by sharing some of these travel gems is an even greater gift. Enjoy!'

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR I’m a chef with Champagne taste and a beer budget, but always seem to find myself surrounded by the most amazing people in the most amazing places. From eating termites in the Honduran jungle to learning how to make dim sum in Hong Kong, for me treasure is in the story.

LANE NIESET

SERGIO OLIVARES

EDITOR-AT-LARGE "My definition of home is whatever island, mountaintop or chic resort I happen to be sleeping in that night."

CREATIVE DIRECTOR When I am not at a music concert, you might catch me hunting down new and exciting roads to drive on the weekends. "I live my life a quarter mile at a time." - Dom Toretto.

3

By The Editors

Cockscomb San Francisco, California Celebrated chef Chris Cosentino, together with partner Oliver Wharton, opened Cockscomb restaurant in San Francisco’s South of Market neighborhood in late 2014. Honoring the diverse culinary heritage of the chef’s adopted city, the Cockscomb menu showcases Cosentino’s expert techniques in offal cooking and butchery as well as his passion for fresh, native flavors; menu highlights include the Tombo Crudo with Vietnamese herbs, chili, & rice cracker, Grilled Cheese with duck egg & honey, Wood Oven Roasted Pig's Head with greens, shallots & capers, and the highly-coveted “Impossible” Burger with lettuce, Dijon, gruyere cheese, caramelized onions & bread and butter pickles. The food is accompanied by a dynamic beverage program, featuring a wide selection of ciders – and an innovative draft system featuring a Negroni on tap – as well as extensive spirits list highlighting over 60 local gins produced in the Bay Area. www.cockscombsf.com

The Delano Beach Club South Beach, Florida Memorable South Beach experiences must include a day (or two) by the iconic swimming pool at The Delano. With direct access to the ocean, this beach club experience gives you the best of both worlds. Be pampered in your cabana by the attentive staff, clad in all white to offset their bronzed South Beach glow.

Indulge in a day filled with magnums of champagne… because as you know, you go big or go home here on Miami Beach. Don’t worry about looking out of place with your big bottle of bubbles, there are plenty of corks being popped around the pool. Go be fabulous! www.morganshotelgroup.com/delano/delano-south-beach

6

SwankyRetreats.com

The Morris San Francisco, California Located in San Francisco's Potrero Flat, The Morris is the first project between renowned sommelier Paul Einbund (Frances, Octavia) and chef/partner Gavin Schmidt (Coi, Campton Place), opened in Fall 2016.

A neighborhood restaurant spotlighting both a playful and elevated food and wine program, the menu at The Morris honors the agricultural and culinary diversity of Northern California. Chef Schmidt highlights regional ingredients through signatures like the Smoked Duck served with root vegetables, and wide selection of nibbles, including Shrimp Toast with grapefruit and avocado and charcuterie made and cured in house.

Accompanying the seasonally-rotating menu is an extensive beverage program led by Einbund that showcases a comprehensive and eclectic wine list, as well as a wide selection of Madeira wines and Chartreuse, along with expertly-crafted cocktails. www.themorris-sf.com

Paper Plane San Jose, California A cocktail bar to rival all cocktail bars, this is a popular spot to hit up for late night hand-crafted masterpieces.

Classy without being pretentious, the vibe is bustling but chill with the artisan-style cocktails crafted with care -wine and beer are available too. www.paperplanesj.com

7

Tapas y Tintos South Beach, Florida Tapas y Tintos on the historic street, Española Way, you’ll either feel like you’ve stepped onto a movie set or an actual cobbled street in Old World Spain and this corner establishment ties every aspect of the pedestrian district together. We call it a district because in the span of just one block, this little street packs in a massive amount of authenticity. The restaurant, replete with dramatic Flamenco shows throughout the end of the week, offers a taste of Spain via its extensive tapas menu and wines. Grab a pitcher of sangria, sit close to the stage and start ordering. ¡Olé! www.tapasytintos.com

Terrazas Hollywood, Florida Terrazas restaurant sits on the 9th floor of the Hyde Resort and Residences. The oceanfront resort on Hollywood beach offers indoor and pool deck tables. I dine in a refreshing breeze with a lightning show over the Atlantic and tonight's sunset over my right shoulder.

Across the table from me the Hyde's palm trees and cabanas line the swimming pool while uptempo music makes me wonder where the DJ booth is. In due time, Hernan, my server glides the Argentinian Skirt Steak with chimichurri and truffle fries to my table. Their braised short ribs in a red wine reduction and a side of mashed potatoes await on my next visit. Terrazas is making Hollywood hip again. Check it out. www.terrazasathyde.com

8

The Royal Hideaway Playacar hotel is located on the white sands of an idyllic beach on the Riviera Maya and offers an exclusive all inclusive, adults-only experience very close to key points of interest such as Playa del Carmen.

The 200 magnificent rooms provide a luxury stay surrounded by sumptuous gardens where the assistance of a private concierge and endless amenities are never far away.

The hotel features 6 restaurants serving international cuisine with à la carte options; the Chef’s Table at Las Ventanas restaurant is particularly outstanding, as it is the only restaurant on the Yucatán peninsula based around interaction with the chef.

This magnificent, all inclusive resort also features luxurious facilities, among which 6 pools, a spa and a fitness center stand out, as well as infinite sports and fitness options. Whether inside the resort’s facilities or on the idyllic beach in front of the hotel, guests have many different choices available, including adventure and water activities.

The tranquility and privacy of a luxury, adults-only setting is a reality on the Riviera Maya, thanks to the Royal Hideaway Playacar – Adults Only, one of the best hotels in the world.

SWELLEGANT STAYS The indeďŹ nable sense of style that makes us swoon: swanky, swell & elegant.

Craddock Terry Hotel Lynchburg, Virginia Meet us at the intersection of history and shoes.

The Craddock Terry Hotel is a 44-room boutique property situated along the banks of the James River in picturesque Lynchburg, Virginia overlooking the Blue Ridge Mountains. A short walk through America’s history in historic downtown Lynchburg, you’ll find everything from community markets and museums to cultural venues and outdoor activities.

Find hidden treasures in antique shops, bike nature trails, and taste your way through the nearby brewery and wineries. Derived from a former shoe factory, The Craddock Terry Shoe Company, the hotel boasts shoethemed decor throughout, accented with historical artifacts mixed with modern artwork, and a unique collection of shoe memorabilia - breakfast is delivered in an old fashioned shoe shine box, which is set on the guest’s bed in the evening and placed outside the door to receive complimentary breakfast the next morning.

Established in 1786 and rich with history, Lynchburg has been the backdrop to everything from the Civil War battles to plantations, wineries, lush gardens, countless cultural and outdoor activities, annual festivals and events and Poplar Forest, the summer home of Thomas Jefferson. Conveniently located halfway between Washington, DC and Raleigh, NC, Lynchburg is easily accessible and Craddock Terry is a fantastic find along the way. www.craddockterryhotel.com SwankyRetreats.com

11

El Paseo Miami Beach, Florida El Paseo is made up of a set of seven villas that help create the major Spanish architectural influence along Española Way. Being only steps away from Ocean Drive and Lincoln Road, the two most famous streets on South Beach, the hotel is a pleasant and relaxing retreat on what is Miami Beach’s most historic street. The architectural and design influences found throughout the hotel are from Morocco, Italy, and France. The tiled roofs, rounded archways, pink stucco exterior walls and charming balconies set an Old World romantic tone.

This is hardly a surprise as the El Paseo was built as an artists’ colony in the 1920s, so the aesthetic has always been intended to inspire and influence the warm creative juices that tend to flow in such romantic settings. This special alcove offers travelers a culturally inspiring South Beach experience, while being perfectly positioned to indulge in all the other trappings of the destination.

In the early 1920s, architect Robert Taylor envisioned a place for Miami where artists and lovers of the artistic would congregate, similar to Greenwich Village in New York or the artists’ quarter in Paris. He modeled the street after some of the safest, most walkable and delightful places in Spain and France. The pedestrian only street became the first commercial space built on Miami Beach. A historic enclave of boutiques, intimate cafes, artists’ lofts, design studios, Española Way is a soulful two-block stretch of Mediterranean inspired magic in the heart of Miami Beach, and a leisurely stroll unveils all the intricate details of this lovely little street.

El Paseo will become a new hotel option for those seeking a different look at Miami Beach’s South Beach. www.elpaseohotel.com 12

Grace Vanderbilt Newport, RI Think drink as you watch the sun sink and bask in the afterglow. Grace Vanderbilt is a historic boutique hotel in Rhode Island just minutes from the waterfront of Newport. A landmark, the Grace Vanderbilt is a vintage mansion that has been restored to its former glory and is one of the few private homes of the era to operate for guests as a fully functioning and top luxury hotel in Rhode Island. The property is comprised of 33 luxurious rooms and suites and a sumptuous spa and fitness center with indoor and outdoor swimming pools. Grace Vanderbilt’s robust beverage program is one of the town’s best kept secrets—the property’s expert mixologists not only use the freshest ingredients in innovative ways to create craft cocktails, but the head mixologist spent years in the kitchen as a baker who has recently taken

her culinary talents to the bar, so guests can expect to enjoy cocktails unlike any others. Everything from the drinks’ textures, balance of flavors (they rarely use sugar and prefer to use different ingredients to sweeten), and Instagram-worthy presentation makes this property a true cocktail mecca, think edible roses floating atop your rosewater-infused drink or a hand-latticed dried rhubarb garnish that takes more than two hours to make. In the warmer months, guests can enjoy beautiful views of the harbor on the roof deck and enjoy cocktails, Dom Perignon champagnes by the glass and light bites. www.gracehotels.com/vanderbilt

The Inn at Dos Brisas Washington, Texas The Inn at Dos Brisas is a 9-room Relais & Châteaux retreat located on the foothills of the scenic Texas Hill Country. Steeped in ranch-style living, romance and adventure, the property was originally built as a private estate and now stands as an idyllic retreat for an authentic luxury ranch experience. The property has an exceptional culinary experience that is backed by the 42-acre USDA-certified organic farm. The farm specializes in heirloom fruits and seasonal vegetables that are cultivated without the use of hormones, synthetic fertilizers or pesticides and provides the dailychanging menu in the restaurant – an intimate Spanish country manor and the only Forbes Travel Guide five-star restaurant in Texas.

Executive chef Matt Padilla (previously at The Little Nell in Aspen) offers a vegetable-centric focus with creative Texan flair, to be paired with wines from the 7,000-bottle wine cellar. Guest’s staying one of the nine haciendas

or casitas can enjoy “farm-to-room service” where menu ingredients come right from the farm to your room - think breakfast of a Bloody Mary using homegrown tomatoes paired with an omelet using eggs from the property chickens and heirloom vegetables grown on property. Room service can be delivered using the butlers pass - allowing meals to be delivered without disturbing the guest.

For a step up, the property offers a full buyout option, that will grant guests exclusive use of the entire 313acre estate of plush meadows and pristine gardens, accompanied by an exceptional culinary program and truly customizable itineraries. Guests will have endless access to all seasonal activities, including carriage rides, horseback riding, fishing, clay target shooting, biking and more. www.dosbrisas.com

Ponte Vedra Inn & Spa Ponte Vedra Beach, Florida Give the northern part of Florida another glance. Ponte Vedra Inn & Spa is a lovely place to park yourself for a few days. The spa is absolutely stunning and a true destination spa. This next-level spa is already a regional destination for its unique services. The 30,000 square foot spa facility is the largest in North Florida and open to resort guests, club members and locals. With hundreds of treatments and a full-service salon, the al fresco setting boasts a stunning outdoor heated pool with therapeutic grottos, poolside lounging and dining cabanas. You may come for the beach, but never want to leave the spa. It masterfully combines its relaxing surroundings, elevated offerings and ultra-modern facilities.

The table seats only four guests, allowing diners to intimately learn secrets and tips from the chef’s as they prepare their meals. Going above and beyond, Chef curates an exclusive, tailored seasonal menu to desire for each group of guests — whether it’s a 10 or 4 course meal. The meal is complimented by a sommelier pairing wines to accompany each course.

As if that’s not a tempting enough offering, they tease the taste buds with this culinary attraction. The property has a new chef’s table in the heart of the kitchen called Chef’s Table at Seahorse Grille. Here guests are offered a new spin on the tradition chef’s table is the brand new interactive dining experience in the heart of the bustling kitchen of Ponte Vedra Inn & Club’s signature restaurant, Seahorse Grille. Guests have the ultimate front-row seat to the cooking action at the experiential Chef’s Table, situated at the end of the cooking line.

The table has been made on-site from locally-sourced redwood, an unexpected gift from Hurricane Matthew.

www.pontevedra.com

Fun Fact:

15

Ritz Carlton Sarasota Sarasota, Florida Renowned Ritz Carlton style and service is to be found on Florida’s Central West coast. This hotel is sat inside a marina, just on the outskirts of downtown Sarasota and serves up sunsets to beat the band. As the eye stretches across Sarasota Bay beyond the John Ringling Causeway and sees clearly past St. Armand’s Key to the horizon, you will be taking in some of the finest shows Mother Nature offers. From any of the Ritz Carlton’s west-facing balconies, you can catch this scene as it unfolds, but we highly recommend booking yourself into a suite on the concierge level of the hotel. Here you can kickback with cocktails, wine, snacks and meals served throughout the day, but at sunset you’ve a brilliant perch from which to view the sunset and all the amenities to spoil you as you do so.

The service that one has come to expect from this chain is evident in every aspect of the guest experience, from arrival to departure. The Sarasota location is fabulous for families, couples and business travelers alike as its location puts guests in the thick of the city with the luxury of being above it all. Slip out of the marina and spend your days at the beach with the beach club access. The destination is known to a certain type of traveler and is rapidly becoming unearthed by those seeking new places to visit in Florida. We can tell you that traveling outside the obvious offerings of Florida and exploring this hotel and its surroundings will keep you coming back for more.

16

SwankyRetreats.com

Speaking of cravings…Jack Dusty's brown bread. Those four words are really going to sit well with you once you’ve dined at the hotel’s main restaurant. You might add a fifth-- amazing. The fact that its baked in and served from a tin can, just as Jack had done, grabs your attention but once the presentation of this humble beginning to the evening’s meal has concluded and the tale of why it’s in a tin had drawn you in, you will devour the loaf and wonder when you can make your next reservation. The restaurant is designed around an ode to the sea and must be experienced to fully grasp the execution of the concept. Relaxed elegance is the theme felt throughout the hotel, so come prepared to be completely satisfied. Include the spa experience, and take the vibe to an entirely new level, 80 minutes is the minimum recommended (by Swanky Retreats) amount of time for any treatment here. The staff is gifted and if you can carve out 120 minutes of your day to be really relaxed, then this spa is for you. See Sarasota from the Ritz Carlton and rethink Florida’s other coast.

www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/florida/sarasota

San Francisco Proper Hotel San Francisco, California San Francisco Proper Hotel recently opened in a beloved flatiron hotel building on the corner of 7th and Market in the Mid-Market neighborhood and marked the first injection of true luxury lifestyle hospitality into the city in over a decade. The hotel sits at a crossroads where elite tech companies now inhabit once-blighted architectural marvels, once thriving theaters have been revived, artistic institutions provide rare exhibits, and thousands of residential units are coming online. From the outside in, every detail of the flagship hotel has been meticulously attended to by veteran hotel developer The Kor Group and world-renowned interior designer Kelly Wearstler. A crumbling façade has been stripped away to reveal Beaux-Arts ingenuity, and the historic lobby has been restored by local artisans, who employed centuries-old techniques to brilliantly showcase its accumulated history. Kelly Wearstler combined pre-modernist European influence, hand-selected vintage furnishings, and works by local artists to create a warm, inviting design mix. The residential feel continues in each of the 131 guestrooms, where a downtown vibe meets old-school French and Italian sensibilities.

The property also features four distinctive food and beverage concepts, including a rooftop bar and lounge, that weave together in a series of indoor/outdoor spaces that inspire a nature progression from cocktails to dinner to stargazing. Proper tapped acclaimed cocktail consultants Josh Harris and Morgan Schick of BVHospitality for the beverage program, while James Beard-nominated executive chef Jason Franey oversees the culinary offerings.

Similar to the other properties in the brand’s portfolio, guests have access to the Proper App, which allows them to access a multitude of amenities and services including room service or arranging private flights. San Francisco Proper Hotel is a culturally connected hangout for next generation bon vivants. www.properhotel.com

St. Regis Aspen Resort Aspen, Colorado The St. Regis Aspen Resort continues to be recognized as a leading destination resort, ushering a new standard of luxury design in Aspen. Offering unsurpassed service, deluxe accommodations and the supreme beauty of the Aspen Mountain backdrop - the quintessential mountain retreat is centrally located in downtown Aspen at the base of Colorado’s legendary Aspen Mountain, within walking distance of the many area attractions and recreational pursuits not limited to skiing, snowshoeing, hiking, biking, fishing, and more.

Resort amenities include the highly anticipated Velvet Buck (coming Winter 2017), Mountain Social lounge – a must for après ski cocktails, Chefs Club, award-winning Remède Spa, complimentary Lexus courtesy vehicles, an outdoor heated pool and three outdoor hot tubs, fitness center, world class resort concierge services, altitude specialist, 25,000 square feet of meeting space and the signature St. Regis Butler Service.

Transcending with its grand, Gilded Age architecture and clever use of light, ornamental steel and glass throughout, each of the 179 sophisticated guest rooms and suites are outfitted with custom furnishings

18

including leather beds and desks designed by Ralph Lauren, exquisite marble bathrooms, plush robes, and Remède Spa bath amenities. Families will delight in special welcome amenities and turndown rituals including delectable treats, child-sized robes, slippers, and a step stool for the little ones. And throughout a family’s stay, the resort team is able to recommend and arrange a selection of recreational activities and enriching excursions, dining options, childcare services, and other conveniences for families and children of all ages.

Named the #1 hotel spa in the world, The St. Regis Aspen Resort’s Remède Spa is a sanctuary of indulgence and relaxation. The 15,000-square-foot spa offers an extensive menu of treatments, along with a sauna, steam caves, oxygen lounge, indoor waterfalls, state-of-the-art manicure and pedicure stations, and hot/cold plunge pools. Remède Spa also provides healing to spa guests outside of our treatment rooms and into nature by way of multi-sensory adventures incorporating the outdoor beauty of Aspen and curated activities (yoga, meditation, qigong, etc.) that induce a deeper sense of relaxation, being and presence in the moment.

Insider Tips:

Time honored traditions, personal service, and signature touches make The St. Regis Aspen Resort an unparalleled experience. Notably, as the second location in The St. Regis collection of luxury hotels, The St. Regis Aspen Resort continues a tradition started

by John Jacob Astor IV when he founded the first St. Regis Hotel in New York, circa 1904 – the Sabering Ceremony. Guests gather for a ceremonial champagne sabering to celebrate the transition from the day into night each day in the courtyard surrounded by views of Aspen Mountain. In addition, the tradition of the Bloody Mary continues to be a cornerstone of St. Regis resorts – having created the famed cocktail at the New York location. Each St. Regis resort showcases its own signature spin on the classic with The St. Regis Aspen Resort serving The Downhill Red Snapper. www.stregisaspen.com

Sabering Tradition Experience the time-honored St. Regis tradition of sabering by participating in its daily, complimentary champagne sabering at sunset, approximately 4:45pm during the winter season and 5:15pm during the summer season.

Bloody Mary Tradition & tasting At 11:15 am every day, tastings of select Bloody Marys from St. Regis’ around the world are available to guests in Shadow Mountain Lounge with different options available each month.

Holidays at The St. Regis Aspen Resort The property transforms into a Winter Wonderland and programs each day in December by way of complimentary events open to the community, such as a coveted Tree lighting Ceremony, sleigh rides, fireside stories with Santa, Unveiling of each year’s intricate Gingerbread House, gift making, complimentary S’mores, and much more.

SwankyRetreats.com

19

Traveled A Road Less

Story By Ann Marie Scheidler

Sometimes the adventure down a less obvious path leads to the most unforgettable adventure—maybe even a “glamping” one with an incredible glass of Pinot Noir or Chardonnay.

On my first trip to Oregon, I was lucky enough to meet the Drouhin Family who established an incredible vineyard in the late 1980s. Their winemaking roots were actually planted in Burgundy, France a century earlier, when Joseph Drouhin moved from Chablis to Beaune where he founded Maison Joseph Drouhin.

He was succeeded by his son, the brilliant Maurice Drouhin, who dedicated his life to making fine wine.

In 1957, Robert Drouhin became the third generation to run the business. He first "discovered" Oregon on a 1961 visit, and then again during the 1979 and '80 blind tastings in Paris and Burgundy (the latter of which Robert organized) that put Oregon wines on the world map. Robert recognized that it was Oregon, more so than California, whose soils and climate could unlock the complexities and potential of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the United States.

In 1986, Robert's daughter VĂŠronique came to the states at the age of 24 to oversee the planting of what today is called Domaine Drouhin. She interned with the masters like Robert Mondavi to better understand the complexities of Oregon winemaking. Each of Robert's four children have taken active roles in the business, from the wine chemistry, to sales, to running the company.

22

SwankyRetreats.com

23

On Domaine Drouhin's 30th anniversary (which they celebrated this last July), VĂŠronique uncorked bottles from her first vintage to find that they were still wonderfully drinkable. With her children at her side, the fifth generation is waiting in the wings for their place in the business, a true family affair. What is remarkable are the lessons the family has translated from their winemaking in Burgundy, France to the Dundee Hills in Oregon, and from the Dundee Hills to Burgundy.

From France, the family has gleaned the elegant skills of true winemaking mastery. Phillippe Drouhin, the family vintner, has extensively studied the science behind fine wine and translated that into how he monitors the conditions in which the family vines are grown in Oregon. He regularly has his soil samples excavated so he can see what is influencing the taste of Drouhin grapes.

From Oregon, the Drouhin Family learned the importance of opening up their Burgundy vineyards to tourists and allowing them to experience their wines on site and make a purchase before they leave. This has allowed them to build long-lasting relationships with their most loyal customers.

The Drouhin Family is exemplary in making their guests an extension of the five generations who are a part of the family’s winemaking. This adds to the comfortable aesthetic of staying in the northern part of the Willamette Valley in the Pacific Northwest.

24

Not one to ever really camp, I was intrigued by the idea of staying at The Vintages Trailer Resort, just 10 minutes away from Domaine Drouhin. Centrally located in the heart of the Willamette Valley, the Vintages offers retro trailer accommodations on a 14-acre park.

These trailers (some dating back to the 1940s) have been meticulously restored and outfitted with luxurious modern amenities, like pour-over Caravan Coffee, luxurious terrycloth robes, comfortable mattresses and fine hotel-quality linens. Most trailers include a private toilet, and many include showers, too (if not, there’s a lovely clubhouse and fitness center, complete with showers and restrooms).

Other offerings include propane grills, a pool and hot tub, outdoor lawn games, and a nearby dog park. The Vintages also provide cruiser bikes you can pedal over the bridge to the neighboring town of Dayton. Their General Store is filled with must-have souvenirs you can’t leave without.

The Vintages has a faithful weekend following where nearly every pristine trailer becomes occupied by a wine-country enthusiast. With the clear evening sky illuminating the twinkling stars with a picturesque mountain backdrop, the Vintages community comes to life—and is one to be enjoyed. domainedrouhin.com the-vintages.com

SwankyRetreats.com

27

A LETTER FROM North America:

LOS ANGELES

By Gina Hines

Hello darling, This is going to be a fabulous weekend here at The Beverly Hills Hotel, affectionately known as the ‘Pink Palace’. As synonymous as Beverly Hills is with all things swanky, The Beverly Hills Hotel is famous for legendary service and legendary guests, and we are indulging in every bit of that pampering and prestige.

Sure, we chose to stay here for all those reasons and the celebrity treatment, but this 5-star Los Angeles hotel is located on Sunset Boulevard, in the center of Beverly Hills, positioning us directly in the path of stardom or at least in the path of star-sightings. Here the stars don’t only come out at night, but also can be seen at breakfast, lunch, dinner, poolside and wandering the

12-acres of lush, tropical gardens and exotic flowers surrounding the hotel. There really is no need to name drop or star search at this hotel, discretion is the policy understood by all those who are a part of the property as a guest or staff member and being a gawking fan is gauche…nobody needs that. As I innocently strolled around the hotel, it was impossible to miss the fact that the proprietors have been diligent in remaining faithful to the original architecture and interior design, the luxury hotel has been carefully renovated to the highest standard of today while preserving its noteworthy level of comfort and flair. Although I would have been perfectly happy and stayed in grand style with the hotel’s wide

range of deluxe rooms the rates were tempting enough that I chose to relax in a spacious suite. Next stay, I will definitely be opting for a secluded private bungalow.

This way when I come back to the hotel after a day spent exploring the rest of Beverly Hills, I can indulge in some romantic time while feasting on room service, without any concern about space or privacy. For now I am thoroughly enjoying my time as I wine and dine at the acclaimed Cabana Cafe, and have rediscovered the world famous Polo Lounge restaurant where a rounded booth has never been more inviting than it is in here. It puts me in the best position to enjoy the room and its diners. Cocktails in the lounge are enjoyable, but at Bar

Nineteen12, a nod to the year the hotel first opened, gives me indoor fabulousness and a glam terrace overlooking the pool. I love taking pre and post dinner cocktails right here. I’m glad we had the time to catch up and hope you’ll join me enjoying this classic hotel on your next trip to Los Angeles. I am off to the do a bit of relaxing now, starting with a dip in the elegant, sunbathed pool amidst the palms and then a little visit to the relaxing spa.

See you Soon,

29

A LETTER FROM North America:

NEW YORK

By Peta Phipps

30

SwankyRetreats.com

Hello from the Big Apple, Autumn in New York is one of my favorite times of year.

Exploring this city from the new Hotel 50 Bowery is enhancing the experience to no end. Loving the city that never sleeps from Uptown, Midtown, and all around the island of Manhattan has been fun but planting myself right in the midst of Chinatown is giving me an entirely new perspective. Instead of popping in to the district and visiting for a meal or for part of a day, I chose to immerse myself in the community and Hotel 50 Bowery did not disappoint; it fosters a meaningful connection to the Chinatown community within which it resides, and Curator Herb Tam, from the nearby Museum of Chinese in America, develops the hotel’s in-house exhibition to engage guests in the neighborhood’s history. Talk about experiential travel...I am loving every minute of it. As a guest here, I am learning how the community developed and its importance to New York history and that of America overall. I am making this a shorter letter than usual because I am being drawn by the art throughout the hotel, to experience the joy of life. The hotel is owned by a company by the French name, Joie de Vivre, meaning the exuberant enjoyment of life. Need I say

more? The 229-room hotel celebrates the location’s past, present, and future through design, experiences, and amenities curated to acquaint New York with the fun-loving, Joie de Vivre lifestyle. Come wander through The Gallery with me. I want to learn more about this community before taking to the streets and then I will head up to the rooftop bar called 21@50 or Goldie’s for some dim-sum-style bites with live entertainment and get myself inspired by its opium-den theme, before checking out what’s only steps outside my hotel door.

When you visit, which I know you will. Drop me a line and let me know how much you love the hotel. ޽㚄㌫ʽ (zài lián xì): Let’s stay in touch,

31

By Peta Phipps

PORTLAND, MAINE

A LETTER FROM North America:

Note to self, Whenever looking to escape the hustle and bustle of city life, in the northeastern portion of the United States, look no further than this haven of tranquility. We have discovered the quaint Chebeague Island Inn. This slice of Americana is found in the heart of Casco Bay and is the ideal shoreline getaway to relax and unwind. We took advantage of the Inn's "unplugged" nature as there are no TVs or phones in the 21 individually designed guestrooms, allowing us to truly rest. The simple elegance of coastal New England is evident throughout the property from their state-of-the-art copper bar, L.L Bean Bicycles, and the local art that is sprinkled in every guestroom. In addition to the charming details of the island Inn, the Chebeague Island Inn Restaurant is regarded as the top fine-dining experience in the area and known for its innovative cuisine while incorporating fresh, local ingredients from the island farm and Chef’s garden out back. For travelers looking to get the full Maine experience, guests can throw on a cozy sweater and set up a private beach bonfire or participate in sunset cocktail cruises aboard classic schooners and experience the remarkable views of Casco Bay. Extra special note that the Inn is seasonal, open approximately May - October only, so manage stress well in the other months.

Best,

33

A LETTER FROM

North America:

WASHINGTON, D.C.

By Stephanie Jones

Hello from the capital, There’s an awful lot of buzz around Washington, D.C. these days. Maybe you’ve been paying attention and caught some of this fascinating news. In case you’ve missed it, which we have no idea how you could, here’s the skinny. The newly opened hotel, The Darcy is a stylish and upscale addition to the nation’s capital, located walking distance from Dupont Circle and the White House in the heart of Washington, D.C. The design-forward hotel draws inspiration from the fast-moving, cosmopolitan community around it, welcoming travelers with distinctive details, creative programming and local partnerships. This is good news coming from this area and we love being privy to it and are excited to share it with you.

We think you’ll love it here. The design combines European-style elements of rich wood tones with pops of distressed metals and bright colors to create a high-end-yet-edgy vibe throughout. Each of The Darcy’s 226 rooms, including 37 suites, is at once tailored, clean and quiet, yet inspiring and fun.

Thoughtful details include a focus on artwork, with bright, silhouetted profiles over bed headboards (a nod to the local tradition of portraiture), a menswearinspired color palette of forest green and medium 34

greys, and subtle nods to D.C., like botanical art prints and decorative pillows portraying city symbols such as cherry blossoms and magnolia trees. What really sets the property apart is its dedication to local partnerships.

For business travelers or guests with last-minute occasions to attend, local menswear designer Read Wall has created The Darcy’s Haberdashery, a vintage trunk filled with accessories like ties and cuff links available to rent or purchase. The hotel’s innovative kids programming ensures a fun stay for all family members visiting The Darcy, including an ice cream truck play-tent set up in-room for families who book a suite and The Darcy’s “Gear Shop” outfitted with highend strollers, bikes, scooters and more for exploring the neighborhood. The property also offers signature ice cream sandwiches and a backpack program, which lends out thoughtfully designed themed Darcy bags of maps and activities, like the “Darcy Detective,” “Hip Historian” and the “Mini Monet.” At the end of the day, guests can relax at either the nightly pop-up cocktail tasting in the hotel lobby, or by requesting the hotel’s “secret” cocktail cart and mixologist to come to your room; both the tasting and the cocktail cart feature local favorites Green Hat Gin and Element Shrub drinking vinegars. The onsite dining options tap local culinary talent as well, including Siren, a seafooddriven restaurant by acclaimed Chef Robert Wiedmaier, as well as Lil B Coffee & Eatery from Chef David Guas, with a New Orleans-inspired menu and style.

You’re going to enjoy yourself here. More to come…

S

t ephanie

SwankyRetreats.com

35

A LETTER FROM EUROPE:

LONDON

By Beatrice Harrige

Hiya loves, Ok, that’s cheeky of me to greet you in such a casual way, but I feel like we are close enough that I can take a few liberties with the Queen’s English.

Let’s keep that between us though, the two hotels I am writing you from are a bit posh and I haven’t heard anyone misusing proper English within these walls and that is as it should be. We come to England to be a part of its rich culture and brilliant social scene. Said scene has evolved over recent years, a bit more dramatically than in past decades or even centuries, but the adherence to propriety and decorum remains intact. Prime example is my current hotel, 45 Park Lane: Dorchester Collection’s London hotel, 45 Park Lane, opened as recently as 2011, just opposite The Dorchester with Wolfgang Puck’s first venture in Europe, CUT at 45 Park Lane.

Throughout the intimate-sized hotel, luxurious and contemporary interiors by New York based designer, Thierry Despont, provide a club-like feel offering international guests a smart, central environment from which to enjoy London and all of its glory. Each of the spacious 45 rooms and suites offer views of Hyde Park, as does a spectacular Penthouse Suite with wrap around terrace offering panoramic views across London. A striking central staircase leads to a mezzanine featuring Bar 45, a resident’s Library, and high tech Media Room offering private dining.

It’s a fresh new look at today’s London, with a very noticeable tie to its sister property, The Dorchester.

As one of the world’s most iconic luxury hotels, The Dorchester is quite simply the place to be in London. Situated in the heart of the city’s Mayfair on Park Lane, The Dorchester’s spacious and elegant rooms and suites feature specially commissioned fabrics, antique furniture, white marble bathrooms and expansive views of Hyde Park. The Dorchester Spa which is recently updated after a multimillion dollar transformation, offers indulgent pampering in a glamorous Art Deco setting. A wide range of dining is available to guests in The Promenade, The Bar and The Grill. China Tang offers traditional Cantonese cuisine, while three Michelin star Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester is one of London’s finest contemporary French dining experiences.

This is classic London and one of the best places to see and be seen. Off I go to mix and mingle with the socialites of the city.

Pip pip and all that.

Best,

37

A LETTER FROM AFRICA:

MOZAMBIQUE

By Gina Hines

Bom dia, I am loving sitting on the shores of the Indian Ocean in southern Africa. This week we are vacationing at Azura Quilalea Private Island in Mozambique and embarking on an ocean safari adventure. From the pristine waters of the Quirimbas Archipelago Marine Sanctuary at Azura Quilalea Private Island, to the extraordinary sea life found at Azura Benguerra Island, both National Parks invite us to explore the ocean and uninhabited beaches surrounding both islands, with a multitude of activities to make lifelong memories. We brought the entire family on this journey, knowing the uniqueness of this island vacation. Our favorite family activity has been the ocean safari. We took part in everything from excellent diving sites, fun water activities, and whale -watching, to fishing for local species, educational guided marine walks, where crowds of ghost crabs scuttle by, and had a chance to take in a few incredible turtle sightings.

These two 5-star Mozambican destinations helped us create unforgettable and extraordinary family memories.

I also took a few moments away at the villa to enjoy some alone time and then took full advantage of access to the boats on the island and dove right off one into the Indian Ocean, just to soak in it. As the sun set, we chose the perfect finish to our day by opting to use the water sports centers sunset sail on a dhow cruise, a time-honored tradition in Africa. From here we were able to witness the almost indescribable views as twilight set along the horizon while we enjoyed refreshments watching the simplicity of Mozambican life unfold on the shores as we sailed by.

This is paradise.

SwankyRetreats.com

39

A LETTER FROM EUROPE:

Switzerland

By Rachel Peace

Hello from Europe, In the GraubĂźnden Mountains of Switzerland, the scent of pine hangs thick and sweet in the air, as summer fades to autumn. The screech of tires on tar while old-fashioned automobiles propel up the mountain in the Arosa Classic Car, dulls to a distant memory. Carp anglers who summer in the Swiss Alps flick their final lines into the undisturbed calm, fly-fishing the crystal clear waters of Lake Schwesilee one last time, then disperse.

Horses stomp in their stables at Fuhrhalterei, sensing the change in the season. Gardens of vegetables, herbs and wildflowers give way to the cold creeping over the peaks. Above the pistes, unpolluted precipitation patiently awaits the perfect moment to gently lay blankets of white over 140 miles of adjoined slopes in Arosa and Lenzerheide, bringing forth yet another season of unparalleled downhill and cross country skiing. It's here, in the sleepy village of Arosa, that luxury travelers can uncover multiple hidden gems. New in 2018 is the Valsana, a sporting hotel for backpackers and skiers 40

seeking value accommodations opening December 7. Its sister property is the Tschuggen Grand Hotel, a whimsical five star property operated by the Tschuggen Hotel Group, showcasing Swiss hospitality at its finest.

This season, two new suites will be launched, offering the absolute best views and a spacious home away from home.

Exploring its halls, whispers of the past echo through the corridors of this property that was once a renowned health sanatorium in the 1800's. Today, the hotel honors this history, with the promise of wellness from cuisine to spa. 100% clean eating and local sourcing for guests extends to all 6 dining venues, including its Michelin starred La Vetta restaurant.

Offsite, Alpenblick is another must-visit; in the evenings, roasting rabbits, Swiss wines and cheeses are served in a rustic-chic setting. For early risers, their farmhouse breakfast is also an unbelievably savory and sumptuous affair, in walkabl distance from the hotel.

For die-hard sporting enthusiasts, the hotel's private Tschuggen Express lift allows for limited waits to hit the slopes. Renovated in the summer of 2017, each trip to the top is now more efficient and luxurious. At day's end, skiing in and dining at The Basement is a perfect high-end comfort food option, surrounded by minimalist dĂŠcor, soft lighting and rich wood furnishings.

The final gem, sparkling against the snow at sundown, is the hotel's own Tschuggen Bergoase Spa; its glass exterior appears as galactic sails of a space ship, emerging from the foot of the mountain into which it is built. Inside its walls, constructed of Duke White granite stone from the Alps, Arosa rock, and Canadian Maple, eyes lift to take in all four flours of this unique retreat.

Visitors will appreciate its rock grotto, bio sauna, private spa suites, Kneipp trails, and more. There's no better way to relax weary bones after days spent on the slopes than inside this unique wellness haven, which hearkens to the destinations origins.

Wish you were here!

A LETTER FROM THE SOUTH PACIFIC:

TETIAROA

By Peta Phipps

You guys…

Maeva (welcome) to paradise. For us this is really a welcome back since we came to The Brando last year.

The private island is so lovely that we could not stay away. Flying in from Los Angeles is a lengthy trip, but much shorter than when we flew in from New York once.

Regardless of where you’re coming from, when you arrive, via a quick private jet trip from Tahiti, all thoughts are focused on this atoll of tranquility and luxury and all the attention of the staff is on you, leaving you with nothing to do but relax and enjoy. We did that from the moment our Ukulele strumming singer welcomed us to her home. This is the place so tranquil, secure and private that it is said President Obama chose this island resort as a vacation spot after leaving office. I think that must have been after he went kite surfing with Sir Richard Branson. Anyway, you get the idea.

This is the place to see and not necessarily be seen, but who are we kidding? The crystal clear blue waters, powdery white sand beaches and the private villas positioned around the island to give ultimate privacy offer the most delicious social media backdrops and foregrounds. Check our feed to see exactly what we mean. Marlon Brando had the foresight to know that

this tiny landmass in the middle of the South Pacific was pure paradise. As I sit and sip cocktails at Bob’s bar, because the Ruinart champagne in my villa is what I do at sunset from my pool, I ponder my dinner options and Les Mutinés by Guy Martin wins out every time.

This Michelin-worthy restaurant and world-class wine cellar are the best for my evening meals. I hear next year there’s the addition of a Teppanyaki table over at Beachcomber’s. Sigh…now I have yet another reason to come back to my South Seas paradise. Join us next year and explore this brilliantly orchestrated mostly selfsufficient eco-friendly luxury escape.

Let’s not say nana (goodbye) but rather see you soon.

All the best,

INNOVATIVE SALES REPRESENTAION

“Hotel Labs is a curated US hotel representation company looking after some of the most notable and beloved hotels indicative of their locations and we love putting them in front of our clients.”

HOTEL LABS

255 West 23rd Street Suite 1AW New York New York 10011 USA Tel: +1 646 673 2130 hotellabs.com

Naples...

Puttin' on the Ritz

By Andrew Innerarity

anderbilt Beach Rd. is a reminder of a bygone era when the rich and famous pioneered the sort of luxury in this area that I will experience for my weekend at the Ritz-Carlton, Naples.

Checking in at the Ritz Carlton, Naples, Stefanie glances at my ID and welcomes me, walking a few steps to her right and pulling my room keys from an "Expected Check-in" box, I turn 180 degrees and pour myself a Gulf Coast Sunset , one of the hotel’s signature drinks, a non alcoholic , fruit based version of their Naples Sunset. Less than 2 minutes later I am elevating to the hotel's top floor, the Club Level, for a long weekend on Florida's Gulf Coast.

The welcome fruit basket and bottle of wine are a wonderful touch, but at this hour, I grab a handful of grapes and an apple before heading off to put my feet in the snow-white sand, which 14 floors below my room's picture window, separates the green foliage from the blue Gulf water.

Back downstairs I exit the hotel, the adult pool to my left separated from the family pool by about 100 yards, I glimpse Ritz's infant wading pool as I step onto the elevated boardwalk that takes me through a stand 46

of mangroves, the hotel has incorporated to give the property a sense I am a few feet from nature, but resting in the lap of luxury. I make a hard right and follow the wood to the hostess stand which is in the middle of a uniquely shaped food and drink spot, Gumbo Limbo, although it's only about 20 feet wide, it's probably 75 yards worth of tables, straddling the boardwalk.

I am shown to my seat where I am immediately attended by my bartender Cami, who after sensing a touch of drink menu indecision on my part, recommends I try a Naples Sunset, an ice cold blend of light rum peach schnapps orange and cranberry juices and grenadine.

I ask how many she's made "Countless" is her smiling answer. I later find she's only been working here 8 months, so I figure "When in Rome ..." After all, Naples Italy is close to Rome, Italy, and I'm in Naples, Florida, so there, an extra connection to a time honored phrase, and with that, in celebration, I order another to go with my bacon cheeseburger.

For the rest of the afternoon, my roughest decision turns out to be "Where am I going to set up for today's sunset... fter signing, I head to the end of the boardwalk and make a left at the Beach House the hotel's standalone building , looks just like a beach house and is available for parties, corporate events and weddings. At the bottom of the ramp I'm on the sand, under an umbrella, figuring I'll live like an emperor just a little longer and order up another Naples Sunset because when ruling this lounge chair, it's best to stay hydrated.

For the rest of the afternoon my roughest decision turns out to be "Where am I going to set up for today's sunset, here on the sand, back up on one of the boardwalk restaurants or from my 14th floor room, and if up high, will it be through the picture window or from my balcony?" Turns out the relaxation was complete and sleep made the decision for me because a few hours later I woke to a much different color sky, shafts of gold fanned through orange clouds with the orange ball of a sun about an inch above the horizon.

Fully chilled, extra rested, and just a bit hungry I head back to the hotel with a short stop in the dining facility with a great view of the hotel’s courtyard “Bites.” This lobby lounge tapas style area allows sampling a variety of choices and I do sample as the musical trio playsa medley of Mister Saturday Night, I grab a comfy chair, in the bar's wooden area’s lively scene and most of the 2 dozen tables are occupied. Huge glass windows open to our west, the high ceiling well overhead, and the marble floor are a few steps below the elevated wooden dining section As I munch on my order, the musicians' volume is perfect for the lobby's acoustics.

n the way back to my room, I pop my head into Dusk, a bar and sushi restaurant, as Matthew who greeted me at the entrance explains, is a dark with funky music, a seriously casual, tropical motif, dark, finished wood open enclaves, if that makes sense, promote a sense of privacy while in the middle of an open space. Like the rest of this property, this space's theme was no doubt carefully considered, understandably heavy on wood, the material on the menu's cover, I was just handed.

Should I indulge with a Twilight Romance cocktail and a California Roll? I move farther inside, navigating by the light of a few dozen strategically placed clear glass lanterns, their hinged metal handles would be familiar to sailors blown off course just south of here while heading back to the Old World centuries ago, render just enough light for diners to vibe in the scene.

With the bar on my left I am intrigued by a back wall of books, as I move closer to the shelf, it is simply cool: the bleached driftwood is only shaped like book spines making this spot the perfect kind of library to be in, the sort where you can have food and beverages while talking without being shushed by someone in a seriously perfect bun and eyeglasses on those neck-chains every librarian seems to be issued on graduation. I plan to have a few here tomorrow where the design is a direct

contrast to the daytime warmth and brilliance of the soft Gulf Coast sand on the beach a couple hundred yards away. I head out the entranceway, past artwork hinting at what nature provides beyond this air conditioned alternative to what beckons guests for a getaway in Naples.

I pop into the Club Lounge, their concierge level VIP experience, for a snack before turning in. The Lounge’s advantages are clear: food presentations changed 5 times daily covering breakfast, lunch, mid-day snacks, hors d’oeuvres, and hand-crafted desserts, selections of wines, liqueurs, beers, spirits and non-alcoholic beverages; Free in-room WiFi; complimentary pressing of two garments per day; Access the concierge and business center, and when my stay ends, I can check out here, bypassing the front desk. It’s the apple crumb pastry for my bedtime snack but before I have properly adjusted my chair, one of two hostesses, Patty is inquiring whether I found all I needed. Their light fare is perfect and I finish up with a couple strawberry cookies topped with a chocolate drizzle.

Entering my room, the turndown folks have closed the drapes, filled the ice bucket, turned on the television and continued the chocolate motif with a couple squares on my pillow, one light, one dark.

Next morning I follow Josh, the concierge’s, perfect directions and I declined his offer to personally show me the way to their spa as I head outside and make a left at the fitness center, whose rows of free weights Cybexand Lifefitness machines, treadmills and stationary bikes beckon, I put in 45 minutes hitting the major body parts before the short walk upstairs to the spa.

I am welcomed at the front desk as Mick at the spa confirms my treatment details before Ron silently appears and takes me on the tour, personally guiding me through the facility detailing the critically important swimsuits optional versus suits required spa areas. Sliding into my robe, I hit the 7 head shower, and after getting the temperature just right and angling the heads strategically, I ease on in, and am reminded as I always am in these tiled spaces, what it would be like to swim standing up, on the rocks at the bottom of Niagara Falls, water seemingly came from everyplace.

Why towel off, a few steps off is the plunge pool sequence: cold, medium then hot, sections in both the ladies and men's locker rooms. My skin is accordianed from the temperature so I grab a cooling cucumber-infused washcloth from the bowl on the edge of the last pool as I head for the infrared sauna.

IR lamps have the advantage of heating the body from the inside out, the reverse of conventional saunas, a fact covered by Ron when he gave me the tour in what seems like an age ago. I reflexively calculate how long I've been in the spa then snap out of it because this is a time to relax, not clock watch. The VIP level folks handed me this itinerary with a recommendation I arrive at least an hour before the relaxation massage appointment, and I am glad I took their counsel.

On the other side of the wall is the wet heat, a steam room whose eucalyptus-laden air makes me feel like a hairless koala. Loosened and relaxed I head back for another round in the 7 head shower before sliding into a zero-G chair in the indoor relaxation room, my pineapple, orange and mint-infused water comfortably at hand, after all, it won out over the available fruit teas and nut selection, I await Ron's return, my heels even with my eyes and my back well below them all in this wonderful piece of furniture. I am as close to floating as any non-astronaut can get and I can't bear the thought of actually sitting upright on the balcony or heading up to the third floor spa deck whose view of the adults only pool is refreshing, the family pool is about 100 yards away. Back up here on the spa deck, where their soaking pool has about 25 minerals, combined and warmed to 95 degrees I am told help replenish some of whatever I sweat out in the gym and hot rooms here.

asha my therapist is ready to bring 80 minutes of relaxation, a 22 year veteran of the art, I am in her hands for the next 80 minutes. Offering a choice of lotion or scented oil, she begins working methodically and artistically, divining by touch and an apparent psychic ability, which of my muscles need just how much pressure: My arms are jealous of my legs but the mind tells all the body parts to wait their turn. Relaxation is coming!

The relaxation that came with Raasha’s treatment, remains unlike the sandwich I am finishing at the Spa’s H2O+ Café where the fare is designed to rejuvenate the insides as thoroughly as the treatments and equipment are intended to revitalize guests’ exterior.

The restaurant just upstairs from the spa's range of 33 treatment spaces is the perfect end to my experience as I overlook one of the Ritz’s 2 swimming pools from the uppermost spa level, one swimming area is exclusively for couples, the other is family friendly , and both have cabana rental available. For the young waders, there is a pool for babies. Scanning these options, I feel just a bit guilty about indulging my naughty side with either sorbet, croissants or a few chocolate dipped strawberries I saw on the ground floor’s “Gourmet Shop” light fare café.

Coming in from another sunset off the shore, I feel the stand of mangroves I pass through en route to the Terrazza restaurant makes this Ritz unique, their roots exposed and skyward branches lend a sense of what Florida was like before development. My choice tonight is one of seven Ritz restaurants, and as I recall the few I’ve visited I remember the concierge’s briefing: The Grill is dinner only, concentrating on steak and seafood, Bites in the lobby serves a traditional afternoon tea in season.

Tonight at Terrazza, I am in for a Classic Italian-inspired experience, their in-house pastas and pressurized on tap Argentinian and Californian wines and hand made limoncello help make the meal a different dining experience. Peggy seats me and Oved my waiter explains the pasta is handmade fresh onsite every day. House made olive bread with lemon goat cheese spread with baby tomatoes and basil.

My server gave a great explanation on why the menu varies every few months, chefs come in from any of the other six restaurants on property or outside property, the Ritz Carlton Golf, a few miles away has sharing permission so guests can move freely between this Gulf side and their golf-side hotel. Each chef's turn at Terrazza brings their personal and professional philosophy to this hotel group's time honored commitment to excellence and luxury.

49

Coming in from another sunset off the shore, I feel the stand of mangroves I pass through en route the Terrazza restaurant makes this Ritz unique...

Tonight it's my good fortune to be under the delicious care of Andrew, the banquet chef, born in Ohio who has spent 10 years in different US kitchens sharing his belief and philosophy in combining simple elegance and great flavors. He goes on to flesh out his belief that people want to have their mouths watering when food is presented. My choices tonight begin with a Summer corn bisque, some fusilli with fava beans, pesto and fresh mozzarella before moving onto the Jackman’s Ranch filet with its potato confit white asparagus and salsa verde. Jackman’s and the other three sources of Chef Andrew’s products bona fides’ are detailed on the menu so diners can find out even more about Terrazza’s farm to table commitment.

With such care and attention to detail, I know I’ll sleep soundly for my last night here, because tomorrow I’ll be back to cooking for myself.

50

SwankyRetreats.com

Nights: PROVIDENCE AND SAN JOSE

PROVIDENCE Where to stay:

The Dean Hotel, a boutique hotel with a cool, contemporary vibe, custom furniture and craftwork from local purveyors and unique decor from around the world. The funky hotel also has an in-house karaoke bar, a dark and sultry cocktail bar and even a German beer hall, giving one little reason to leave at all.

Where to dine: Nick’s on Broadway, the contemporary American restaurant known for its innovative chefs and locally fused food.

Located in the lively Federal Hill neighborhood, Nick’s is the place to be seen in an area full of beautiful architecture and new restaurants.

Loie Fullers, known for its farm-to-table french cuisine, the team at Loie Fullers not only run their own farm for its fresh ingredients but host the most talked about “Mussels Monday” in Providence.

Where to drink: Rooftop at the Providence G, the city's only rooftop lounge, open year round (with a retractable roof), fire pits and private lounges.

The Eddy, a stylish, dimly lit cocktail bar serving classic & creative concoctions along with unique snacks.

The Dorrance, emotes old world elegance serving cocktails within a stately and distinguished setting.

Hot Club, a staple in Providence and popular with locals/ tourists alike in India Point Park Place. This lively joint sits along the Providence River with awesome views of the skyline.

54

SAN JOSE

San Jose’s growing food scene and both upscale and funky offerings, are anchored by their Michelin starred restaurants, pubs offering artisanal craft beers and cocktails and downtown eateries in the SoFA district and San Pedro Square, complemented by the restaurants, shopping, and spas at the upscale Santana row.

Where to stay: Hotel Valencia (San Jose) This newly renovated, 215-room, sophisticated, chic and stylish hotel exudes the spirit of Old World Spain embodied with a contemporary twist offers all the latest amenities expected in a world-class lodging experience, like a complimentary breakfast, fine dining options, and a fabulous pool.

Fairmont San Jose (San Jose) Refined elegance and sophistication flow into each of the 808 well-appointed non-smoking deluxe guest rooms and suites at Fairmont San Jose. Located near Silicon Valley in Northern California, this 20-story luxury San Jose hotel caters to discerning and well-traveled business professionals who expect impeccable quality from their accommodations.

Where to dine: ADEGA (San Jose) For an authentic taste of Portugal, visit ADEGA (meaning wine cellar) San Jose’s first and only Michelinstarred restaurant. It provides a modern approach to old classics, using the best seasonal ingredients with a wine room offering a selection of some of the best Portuguese wines.

Grandview Restaurant (San Jose) Enjoy a great meal of classic American dishes of beef, veal and seafood while taking in the sunset views at the historic Mt. Hamilton Grandview Restaurant located in a breathtaking mountainside location, above the East San Jose foothills overlooking Santa Clara Valley.

The Plumed Horse (Saratoga) The Michelin starred Plumed Horse offers a sophisticated backdrop for elegant dining offering delicacies such as South Texas Antelope and Hawaiian Big Eye Tuna.

Dessert paired with the restaurant's single-origin

coffees and an extensive collection of wines provides inspiration for accompaniment with your meals.

Manresa (Los Gatos) Three star Michelin rated Manresa Restaurant serves a nightly tasting menu showcasing and offering the finest of each season’s products. The proximity to local farms allows souring the highest quality ingredients of not only the season, but of that day, creating a distinctive dining experience.

Where to drink: Santana Row (San Jose) Santana Row features a vibrant mix of over 50 shops, 30 restaurants, CineArts movie theatre, and the boutique Hotel Valencia. You have your pick of dining and places to gather for a drink catch live music and enjoy plentiful parking all within walking distance.

Paper Plane (craft cocktail bar in San Pedro Square, San Jose) A cocktail bar to rival all cocktail bars, this is a popular spot to hit up for late night hand-crafted masterpieces.

Classy without being pretentious, the vibe is bustling but chill with the artisan-style cocktails crafted with care -wine and beer are available too.

Haberdasher (underground speakeasy in San Jose’s SoFA district) Haberdasher specializes in the finest craft cocktails served in a uniquely sexy and inviting basement atmosphere. Steadfast in the belief that great cocktails can only come from snooty, mustachioed mixologists, Haberdasher invites you to experience their cocktail bar and see for yourself!

57

WINING through BORDEAUX a tale of a river cruise

Story & photography by Andrew Innerarity

in the hallways, or on shore excursions where there's a good chance we'll be on he same bus, and whether they're on vacation or Viking employees, the smiles seem equally honest.

After slipping into something a little more comfortable, because I’m always cold on airplanes and the current temp in Bordeaux is all wrong for my long sleeves, I head to the salon whose floor to ceiling windows are a great place to see the presentation and the waterside scenery.

I'm offered vodka by the flight attendant, but I hold out because what can one do when heading to the heart of wine country, in a wine country because for the next eight days Viking River Cruises will guide me through a seriously wine-heavy vacation.

After a Parisian layover I deplane at Bordeaux airport where I'm greeted by Lindsay, clad in Viking's familiar scheme, a bright red blouse with their Longship logo in white. I am one of 16 on this flight and as we head for the transfer vehicle, Lindsay tells us to leave our bags by the hold because Viking elves "will magic our luggage directly to your stateroom...you are on vacation now."

Several department managers are introduced in the “Life on Board” talk so now we know whom to congratulate at different points of our stay. The maitre d' will take careful note of any food allergies. Nearing the end of her presentation, Feliz wraps things up with humor and detail, notice times for excursions, special groupings on buses based on how much walking each group wants to do on the trip, and last but certainly not least a reminder to take a business card with the access code and dock's address so guests can get back on if anyone chooses to depart the scheduled group tour and gets disoriented on their unique unguided adventure. In conclusion, Feliz makes an observation, no Viking guest will suffer from Novinophobia--fear of running out of wine, and a "forecast for tomorrow: 99% chance of wine." To which I add 100% chance of fun!

In half an hour we're dockside and as we step aboard the Longship Forseti where one Viking crewmember offers cooled face towels and bottled water while I am greeted by Feliz the ship's program director who welcomes guests with a perfect blend of warmth and information, we're invited to board, and informed we can hit the buffet until she offers her "Life On Board" familiarization talk for all guests in the ship's salon. Stepping fully into the lobby and presenting our passports, each guest is given keys to their stateroom in a check-in process that takes about 10 seconds each.

Nataloya from Bulgaria takes me to my stateroom where the highlights are Hi-Def TV, WiFi, heated bathroom floor and a balcony and just what I expect from Viking, but the fruit plate and welcome bottle of champagne are a wonderful surprise.

River cruising is a more intimate experience than ocean voyaging, guests often see the same people repeatedly, whether on board at meals, or in passing

SwankyRetreats.com

59

But we're getting ahead of ourselves, because before tomorrow's event is tonight's walking tour: “Bordeaux

by Night” in which our group of about 24 guests takes to the cobblestone sidewalks of this historic city. On the banks of the Garonne River which merges with the Dordogne River a few miles away, 18th Century Bordeaux was the richest city in France, surpassed in Europe only by London. Wine and overseas trade especially with colonies accounted for the wealth.

Sugar, particularly from Santo Domingo, then a French colony, combined with coffee and cocoa were among the products Bordeaux imported. Later in the week on an excursion to the nearby Aquitaine Museum, our group gets a visible demonstration on the great variety of products this kind of trade created.

a city whose neoclassical facades had been neglected, streets shunned by pedestrians and riverbank avoided.

With a new tram system, cleaning of the facades and creating an inviting riverside promenade and old town area with dockside pedestrian shopping areas, the city has become revitalized.

Back to the 18th Century when Chartrons was created as a separate town, outside the walls of Bordeaux, by wine merchants who didn't want to pay taxes due upon entering that city's main gate by donkey, horse or boat as they transported spirits that still needed to be stored and aged before being shipped elsewhere, particularly to England by river.

Our centrally located dock space is a direct result of a personal river cruise Viking's founder Torstein Hagen took. Drawing on his experience as an ocean cruise line executive, he was inspired to create a river cruise company in 1997, now the company has grown to about 60 river vessels, with a standard passenger capacity of 190 on the European ships like mine. Acquisition of existing European cruise lines allowed Viking prime dock space in so many of their European cities, uniquely designed Longships. The company expanded into China in 2004 offering itineraries combining land and sea experiences, blending river cruising with hotel stays in a few major cities. I hit the sack knowing all my trip’s details have been worked out by talented folks who have been working on this route for years.

So in the mid-1700s as the wine trade raged Louis XV ordered a rehab of Medieval Bordeaux into what became a collection of 18th Century wine storage warehouses until the late 20th Century when Bordeaux’s Mayor, and recent French presidential candidate Alain Juppe had his turn and gave the city yet another major sprucing.

Now former warehouses are rehabbed offices, stores and residences. Juppe kissed this sleeping beauty of

60

The mass transit rehab created a system for the 250,000 in municipal Bordeaux, reaching out to the 750,000-person suburban population via a network of rail cars, buses, personal car parks, river ferries and rental bikes. A bike stand is across the street from where my Longship is docked and for about $2 a day I can rent a three-speed bicycle complete with basket, light and a cheerful warning bell.

Next afternoon I stop by the Internet corner and use one of the ship’s laptops to print out a couple pages of work related material and grab some flank steak and carrot soup at the buffet before heading off on our afternoon excursion. Viking's been at this a while and have it all timed out perfectly so guests can be as busy or as relaxed as we care to be. With each passage the ship’s itinerary has enough included activities to keep them as active as they care to be with the program’s included excursions, beyond that we each have the option of purchasing optional excursions to further enhance our experience.

Aside from these features, Viking’s Longships’ accommodations range from roomy Veranda or French Balcony Staterooms, encompassing two-room Veranda Suites. And when Viking says suite, they mean it literally because they offer river cruising’s first-ever true suites, each with two full-size rooms. And if that’s not enough, there’s an even more spacious category, the Explorer Suites whose wraparound verandas ensure guests enjoy a maximum view of the scenery without leaving their space. But for now I choose to drink in the view with other passengers so I head up to the sun deck

for a panoramic view of things. Today’s temperature is perfect so there’s no need for me to sit in the shaded seated area, I take a lap of the ship, starting near the top of the engine room whose hybrid powerplant has the advantage of providing less vibration/ a smoother ride, I continue making a huge oval on the walking track, circling the organic herb garden, solar cells, and putting green, I figure it’s even safe to wave at the crewman in the wheelhouse. We are, after all, tied to the pier!

I break thongs off near the bow, taking the stairs one level down, cutting through the casual dining area, the Aquavit Terrace whose indoor/outdoor viewing area offers al fresco dining, barely surpassing the nearby Observation Lounge and bar whose floor-to-ceiling glass doors come in a close second. Al fresco dining will have to wait until dinner, because today’s excursion is to the nearby village of Saurternes, population about 750.

On today’s trip, I grasp the irony of this excursion at the 10 and 2 O'Clock positions as our group of 20 takes a 45 minute Mercedes tour bus to Cadillac, pronounced CadEEyak in French, who would have thought it. En route we get a pronunciation lesson from our guide.

61

We drive 45 minutes into countryside and we step off the bus at a remaining section of the city's Medieval Wall.

We seem like miniature people walking beneath the huge thick arch of the tow's sea gate, named because it is close to the Garonne River which meets the Atlantic a short distance away. I feel as though we're a bunch of curious, benevolent raiders committing a slow motion assault on our target. The water is a block away and walking beneath the 25-foot high archway 'tween high water marks from centuries of flooding no one poured boiling oil we head on in, we get off pretty light on this quiet Sunday as traffic is minimal.

We’re on a 5 hour event with tour leader Virginie who walks and to talks our group via her radio transmitter, each stateroom has two headset receivers whose range seems to be about 100 yards, which is perfect, so we don’t have to bunch around her, straining our ears as she explains we’ll be visiting towns on both sides of the Garonne River today. Cadillac and Saurternes were founded, and though the former is spelled in France like it is in the States, and is pronounced CadEEyack and was taken by a Frenchman who crossed the ocean to found Detroit, Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac, so now I know how the cars got their name. Cadillac’s family motto "He Shines Best in Adversity" was surely tested in 1701 when he left France and his magnificent chateau here in Cadillac, renown as the first example of French style architecture when construction began in 1500, and headed for a spot to trade fur where you had to BYO tent and build a DIY log cabin.

To finish the afternoon, we cross the river and jump from the red wines traditionally associated with Bordeaux to white, because we arrive at the next stop, Saurternes in considerably less time than it took for Cadillac’s Atlantic crossing. So, trading these stone walls and cobblestone 62

streets for the next stop at Chateau Guiraud, where as we step off the tour bus signage illustrates they leave the grass natural so its organic matter protects root tissue, soil permeability is natural and compaction is proper, and the vineyards here need all the help nature provides because watering the vines is prohibited by the rules if the vintners want this most famous appellation.

Insects are made to feel welcome at this winery as well because they clean up after nature, leaves, dead insects and dead wood are eaten. Additionally some insects keep other insects away so pesticides have not been used since 1974.

Here the coincidence of soil and climate are the vines’ best friends. The process begins with an environment perfect for the production of the fungus which attacks the grapes, the temperature difference nearby provides the thermal differences which create the wind that whisks away the evaporating water passing through the holes the fungus creates in the grapes’ skin, concentrating sugar within the fruit. The mature grapes are handpicked, other bunches are left on vines, placed in a pneumatic press for liquefaction then transferred to underground vats where the liquid cools and juice filtration takes place in about 12 hrs, separating sediment before the juice is transferred to pure French Oak barrels to ferment for 2-3 weeks before they are again barreled, logged then blended.

known, London elites drank up all they could, especially after the region received what was basically Most Favored Nation Trading Status. John Locke discussed the madness of liking a wine simply because it was more expensive and not necessarily better: in certain cases a Bordeaux was four times more expensive than normal clarets.

As our group finishes the outing by riding the street tram a few stops back to the Longship, I am reminded of how convenient Viking’s docking locations are. Our group is greeted at the bottom of the gangway by Stegarescu whose chocolate drizzled grapes really hit the spot.

Inside the thick stone walled chateau’s tasting room which easily holds the 24 Viking travelers who have taken this outing. Waving her arm toward what I will term “2,200 Hectares of Pleasure” is this confluence.

Our hostess Isabel says "This is just a glass for a tasting not a Russian guy" she says smiling at one of the men in the group of Russians in our tour, to which the Russian guy replied " What about a glass for just a big guy?"

The following day I happen to be on the same bus as the lively knot of Russian guests. As our tour guide Janice, an Alabama native, whose insight and knowledge are a treat for the ears and mind. As she informs and educates us our driver Yannick, shoehorns the tour bus into places where I would not think it would fit. Masterfully threading the body and sweeping the nose past 4-wheeled Peugeots, 2-wheeled Schwinns and motorized Ducatis alike. I ask him if this driving is difficult, he says city stuff is simple, when he drives put on chains and works in either the Pyrenees or Dolomites, that “is like Ice Road Truckers.”

Back on board the Salon is put to excellent use by Diana, who gives guests an afternoon shipboard talk about what to expect tomorrow when we tour the nearby wine museum, Cite du van, a spiraling multimedia experience arching the visitor from one era to the next, delving across 5,000 years to when pharos drank wine to present day when Chinese vineyards are having a go at traditional growers.

I view a holographic presentation on how 17th Century English aristocracy looked down on familiar beverages, so when this region's relatively exotic red wine became

We cast off for an afternoon of sailing I am struck at how effectively Viking sets the tone for their sailing by blending professionalism and fun, and how fully embraced that tone is by their passengers. At the captain's welcome again event for veteran Viking travelers, after a couple admits to this being their 7th river cruise, another veteran traveler yells "Get a job!" to uproarious laughter and applause. Turns out the most senior veterans were on their 11th cruise. Undoubtedly the constant attention we are given plays a huge part in return business, briefed on what to expect on the excursion and provisioned with water and umbrellas if necessary on departure, then welcomed aboard by employees who seem ever present. When briefed on the next day's tour of the hillside town of St-Emilion, where 400 years ago macaroons were invented, we're informed the pitch is formidable, and the cobblestones uneven, but the Viking-led tour is routed to avoid those combinations but if guests would like to experience the those areas, the town has a tourist train so walking can be avoided, they have it all worked out for the guests of the 95 outside staterooms ranging from the Explorer Suites to the standard staterooms, all of which have balconies except for the standard staterooms.

Inside guests find expectations exceeded as rooms are equipped with available laundry service, 40" flat-panel Sony TV with infotainment system featuring movies on demand plus CNBC, CNN, National Geographic and a few other channels featuring national interests, like BBC and CNN. Hotel-style beds 79 inches x 63 inches (with optional twin-bed configuration) Floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors open to a full-size veranda Private bathroom with shower and premium bath products, telephone, refrigerator, safe, hair dryer & bottled water replenished daily, bathrobe and slippers are available upon request, individual room temperature. Space under the bed is an ingenious spot for storing suitcases and the wardrobe’s wooden hangers are a nice touch for the range of clothing I’ll need whether I’m truffle hunting or attending the captain’s dinner.

Before we finish the evening with Feliz’s quote of the day, this one from John XXII, “Men are like wine, some turn to vinegar but the best improve with age” the Executive Chef Frixos offers his dinner recommendation, which I take to heart, after all, he planned and created the meal: Crab cake appetizer, coq au vin, of course, whose 2 day Bordeaux marinade he describes as so effective, the chicken is drunk. Accompanying the bird is the Eiffel Tower Crouton and caramelized onions, all this backed up against a creme brûlée. All courses delivered to my table by my Romanian server, Nick, whose service was excellent throughout the week, appearing, disappearing and reappearing as though he's a time traveling mind reader, anticipating diners' every need.

Food-fortified, I hop the bus for our next excursion, Theirry is today’s driver and Sarah our guide as we head into the countryside for this supplemental excursion, a truffle hunt. Edouard is the hunter who relies on his dogs to begin the process while his wife Carol to finishes things up with a cooked presentation of the treasures the doggies locate.

This trip to the hilly Dordogne countryside differs from the Gironde area, our guide jokes as such, the elevation changes should make it familiar to the English guests.

We get background information on the area, because why ride in silence when you can learn and from and have some fun with your guide? As we pass covered markets and sunflower fields, steep barrel-tiled roofs really lend a bucolic vibe to the area. The area’s famous blonde cows, are actually light brown, and a family circus in an open field.

Our guide Diana, a second generation wine expert whose long hair is as red as the wine color of which she speaks, delivers practical useful detail on what seems at first to be random, disconnected situations on Bordeaux where 98% of wines are blended, where Left Bank vintages are termed masculine cabernet driven wines, that are "so lonely, they need a friend ... perhaps a nice steak." Conversely their less tannic counterparts on the more refined Right Bank, she describes as "quite fruity on the nose." Breaking up the pure information with humor, the bus is informed in centuries past coq au vin was made with wine from the spitoon so her audience understands the expression "the cock cries when the spitoon's filled."

But as hard as things were on cocks, they were just as bad for their migratory cousins when Egyptians accidentally found foie gras on overstuffed birds, noticing those who were ready for a long flight had an unusual yellow liver which was more tender and delicious that the normal pinkish ones, and well, it caught on. The story set the tone for my day of culinary luxury, foie gras' historical reference and truffle hunting later in the morning.

64

SwankyRetreats.com

The information ends just as the first half of the bus ride does does, stopped just down the hill from Edouard who greets our tour with the promise he has not hidden truffles beneath the surface a few minutes before our arrival. By his side and rearing to go are an adult border collie, Leno and his puppy partner Farah who cannot wait to stalk the grounds around the knot of 17th Century homes in which Edouard’s extended family dwells.

How did people end up eating truffles? It is likely ancients got the idea from from wild boar who were seen consuming the spheres and thought "what's good for the boar ..." At present, our ultimate goal is the black diamond of Perigord, whose inside and outside are black and at $1,250 for about 2 lbs is the most valuable local truffle: the first clue is the Oak Tree, second, we look for a burned out section of grass beneath the tree, a dead giveaway because the truffle's toxin kills the grass above. Now we'll need either a pig or a dog, our guest Edouard opted for dogs because they are far less likely to eat any truffle they unearth and weigh far less than pigs, and easier to pull off the prize once their nose has unearthed the truffle. So if your property is gifted with oaks and one night you see a basketed pig walker carrying a small pickaxe...beware! You’re likely being robbed of your delicacy.

With a quick command to “Search” the dogs go to work, pawing at the earth where they smell the delicacy then standing in eager anticipation of their reward, a cube of chicken. A small pickaxe gently unearths the bulb and “Voila!” from start to finish the process took about a half minute.

After 20 minutes of hunting, Q & A and dog petting, our group is led to Edouard’s dining room for lunch. Between massive slabs of stone, the tile floor below and thick wood beams overhead we begin with truffle-infused eggs followed by truffle topped pasta until dessert: ice cream peppered with home made caramel…and locally sourced truffles. As I remark at how long this process has been taking place in this region, the Star Wars ringtone on our host’s cellphone brings me back to the present where the group enjoys a laugh as our bus driver names our host "The Darth Vader of Perigot: Black inside and outside!" A color combination found in some of the most valuable truffles: About $3,000 US for 2.2 Lbs. Hopped up on truffles, we step back on the bus for the return ride, departing with sage advice from our host “ If I had a son to marry off I would advise ‘Beware the young lady who likes not wine, truffles or music.’ “ The absolutely beautiful area makes me feel like I’ve been time warped back to the 1700s, and I fully appreciate why it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

where above ground dozens of wine and souvenir shops are populated by thousands of tourists each day, all in a place with 250-year-round residents. Below ground, in the extensive network of caves where the temperature is consistent, fifteen degrees below the average summer day’s high exist today because in Centuris past the area was a quarry and the space that was left after masons extracted from the earth for building material then has been a hiding place locals used to hide when Vikings rampaged the town. More recently the space has been repurposed for wine storage.

A satisfying time in Saint Emelion behind us, we board the bus back to the Longship our guide informs the bus, although the area is obviously famous for wine, it’s also the site where macarons came from Italy in the 1500s when a French prince married an Italian princess who became culinarily homesick and imported her chefs whose simple ingredients of sugar, egg whites almonds and salt, twice baked for about 35 minutes, second time with the oven door open so the moisture can depart gave us the colorful Italian treats so closely associated with France. Little did I know, the executive chef has a macaron making demonstration in store for us once we get back to the Longship’s salon where Feliz wraps up her brief with a Quote of the Day, this one by Joan Collins, "Age is just a number, it's totally irrelevant unless, of course, you happen to be a bottle of wine." Chef is then introduced to preview the day's dinner menu.

65

In the upstairs, casual dining area we have Gravalax and Keta Caviar and sauteed fish cake for the day’s special, downstairs in the large dining room it is Tandoori chicken and parmesan foam with tomato salad among other hors d'oeuvres options, Filet d'Agneau Rose (link grilled lamb loin, cauliflower-zucchini semolina, potato gratin and lamb jus) The vin du jor is Chateau Les Grandes Vignes, Entre-Deux-Mers, and I think as I sip "Ha! I've been there, oh wait, I am here!"

Today’s waiter Hugo hooks me all the way up, he's there as I sit, he reappears as I finish the entrée, recommends dessert and produces it moments after I agree to the chocolate tart. If perchance a guest doesn’t want the daily offering, Caesar salad, poached Norwegian Salmon, chicken breast, and prime ribeye steak are the internationally reliable favorites and are always available for any guest at dinner, in either the formal dining area or the terrace above.

In the morning I’ve reserved a spot on the included walking tour of the citadel of Blaye which has the interesting advantage of being a two-part fortification, with the primary works on land and a supplemental battery on an island in the river to blast anyone trying to sneak past on the waterway’s far side. In the afternoon, its off on an optional excursion to see blend and sip Cognac “elixir of gods” no winged horses for us, just a relaxing a 90-minute bus ride from the fortress through the countryside. As we enter the town of Cognac the dominant wall color is obviously white and things are particularly quiet as it’s standard for small French towns to practically shut down for lunch from 12-2 We arrive at the Camus Cognac distillery where Sylvie greets us.

We lunch in a wonderfully converted Cognac storage area, lilly white gravel crunched at our feet as we walked past spotlighted portraits of fathers and sons who have headed this family owned distillery for five generations since 1863.

At lunch it’s clear Viking and Camus are neck and next in the competition of how to lavish food and drink on our group, lunch is a melon and prosciutto starter and it’s my good luck to be seated between Sylvie and our guide.

Sauced beef and anised fruit dusted with cinnamon is dessert. Did I forget to mention the iced Cognac served as an aperitif in a narrowed glass. Luckily the lunch partners to either side of me explain the glassware’s shape doesn’t matter because the low temperature doesn't allow aroma to crank up. Our hostess Louisa adds If it is not complicated it is not French, additionally, the timing of the aging process is critical if left too long in the barrel they’ll get "wood juice." I find the term self explanatory.

66

To qualify as Cognac, grapes must harvested in this region, typically in September, of which about seven percent are for white wine and are copper boiler evaporated then tubed to a second container where there is additional, cooler white wine is mixed, the subsequent mix is exposed to tubes containing cold water which condenses the gas to render 40 percent alcohol. Two more steps give the distillery 90 percent alcohol. But hang on hardcore drinkers, further refinement produces about a 30 percent alcohol, the best potency for aromatic Cognac.

Looking over our group whose faces conveyed varying degrees of understanding of the process Sylvie reminds us Camus believes the march of time is critical for world class aging and blending brandies of different tastes, the process because "Like marriage between strong personalities, the harmonies are not necessarily reached immediately." And with that the group is invited to head down the walkway to an area where we’ll blend our own Cognac by combining five different existing Camus distillations.

As our group’s feet crunch the bleached white gravel that is the path to our next stop in the distillery, I think “Wow, Viking has made special arrangements for their passengers to really get a feel of the region by arranging for this activity that goes beyond a simple tour and lecture, so I hope I paid enough attention in the last hour to ensure I blend a good product, because each of us will be taking home a bottle of my very own Cognac.”

The blending space seemingly part storage facility and part chem lab with beakers, bottles, flasks and graduated cylinders gets me thinking about how Mr.

MacIntyre would have reacted had we tried blending Cognac in his high school chemistry class. But I digress, so on I go, sipping each of five samples, noting which barrel it came from, guessing how each flavor would combine with the others, pouring a few ounces of each into my glass, testing recombining, crossing out on the list then refining my best guess until I have a perfect combination! Pretty impressive for a total novice…I guess.

If anyone is daring or curious enough to sample my blend please contact me and I’ll have Camus ship you bottle of my top secret formula Camus keeps on file, ready to bottle and ship as small or large a quantity I request … on your behalf. On land I thought the truffles secured the gold medal and shipboard, the winner was the coq au vin, but with one more meal ashore there came a new contender on the next day’s included tour: Enter Chateau Kirwan, the culmination of the daytrip to the Medoc and Margaux Wine Country where 1500 Left Bank chateaux do their thing, among them are Lafite Rothschild, Latour, Margaux and Mouton Rothschild… so there, wine lovers.

This region has received help from the Romans who taught locals how to handle the extant vines, later Dutch expertise drained what was then a swampy region and the USA provided the only foreign vine the French could graft to the native ones that would not fall prey to the devastating phylloxera pest. Now back to the USA’s rescue of the French vines, some say a rescue was in order as the pest CAME FROM the US! Alas, details, details, details.

67

As our bus moves through the gentle slopes of hallowed wine ground our guide tells us the region’s naturally occurring gravel radiates heat into grapes during the cooler night, so vines are kept small to take advantage. Short up top but in maturity a 70-year-old vine extends 60 feet below the surface, I am impressed. Some of our number are staring longingly through the gate at Chateaux Margaux itself when our guide announces “ It’s Wine (and dinner) 0’ Clock” and we head off to finish the evening at nearby Chateaux Kirwan where pretty much the entire foodservice crew from our Longship is on land! We are greeted with scented cold face towels and shown in to a dinner space large enough for an intimate seating of about 200.

The evening’s vintages are 2016, 2014 and 1995, dinner is traditional regional sweet onion soup, a seasonal green salad, filet mignon in mushroom sauce, shrimp provenciale with steamed asparagus, baby carrots and potato au gratin, and the big finish is chocolate vienetta with figs in a black currant sauce.

As if this fantastic day wasn’t enough, upon arrival at our vessel the crew has wine and cheese for us to nibble on before bed. Viking takes care of you: Two days before departure you get the brief on what to expect on departure day, sort the bill, tag your bags and precheck in to your airline, the 48 hr cushion gives you plenty of time for questions and problem sorting. If you've the extension, we take you to the train station and put you on the way to Paris if you've chosen the extension, and we greet you on arrival. If you’re going back to your home life, we'll pick up your luggage from outside the stateroom, put it outside the bus and you ID the baggage to ensure there's no confusion, at the airport, you're met by Viking rep's and escorted inside the terminal and assisted by them at the self service kiosk where the boarding pass in printed so you can head off to your gate.

For our farewell on board dinner, Captain Chazot and the hotel manager Leonie joined forces to present our choice of wine: Chateau La Fleur Clemence Blanc or Rouge. For starters: escargot with shallots, mushroom cappuccino with truffled milk foam (for which I have Edouard and Viking to thank for my new found appreciation) Entree choices are: beef tenderloin with 4 warm spices sauce, with vitelotte potatoes with mushrooms, or poached fillet of swordfish with crayfish sauce and celeriac puree. Dessert is a crisp dark Valrhona chocolate tart with mango salad, and what a way to go out, a perfect blend of creamy and crunchy!

And it’s with a stuffed heart mind and stomach I head over to Paris for a week, taking advantage of a Viking perk that allows a stayover of up to 30 days on the back side of the cruise, with a greater appreciation for wine, truffles and cognac!

68

SwankyRetreats.com

Changes in Latitudes, Changes in Attitudes.

Margaritaville Beach Resort Grand Cayman invites you to change your latitude for a tªYá ­Ã YĄĄ­Ąď YĄ Ąª òøĄ ﶶ¬ø òĘ­t Yò­jj Yà +Yò¡Yò­ĄYĘ­¶¶ = øÊòĄ Yà ĚÚ ò­ Ãt Y øďìøÊYµ } ďà Êò¡ ĄĄYj¶ Êt YÃĘ­ ę ĘYtYĄ­ÊÃà 269 West Bay Rd | Grand Cayman KY1-1204 | Cayman Islands | 1 855 640 6440 | MargaritavilleResortGrandCayman.com

ADRENALINE

RUSH

In which direction does your compass point? If you are an adventure capitalist or an adrenaline junky, you’ll find it likely points in a direction where you can find this set of experiences. We love what Eleven Experience has to offer. Their mission statement says it all, “Our purpose is to custom-make powerful experiences that impact the people who impact the world.� The power of that statement is what drew us in, our first experience is what keeps us holding our breath for the next one. Eleven Experience represents a new standard in experiential travel.

Beyond your average adventures, the company creates deeply personalized vacation plans for its guests and quenches their thirst for unprecedented adventures. Reach out and grab your first experience and be prepared to be hooked.

Bahama House elevenexperience.com/experiences/hideouts/bahamahouse/step-inside/ *Closed: August 15-November 1 (storm season) Location: Harbour Island, Bahamas Number of rooms: 11 rooms with ensuite bathrooms including the 1800 building with 2 king bedded suites with living areas and day beds, and 1 queen bedded suite, the Annex building with 2 king bedded suites and 2 queen bedded suites, and two chic cottages each with 2 queen suites and a shared lounge space.

Amenities: Two stocked private on-site bars; indoor/ outdoor lounge; private pool with adjoining jet tub; gourmet breakfast chef; use of property equipment including beach chairs, umbrellas, snorkels, sea kayaks, paddle boards, bicycles, and beach games; classic handcrafted on-site rum bar; beautiful outdoor Tiki bar.

Activities: Snorkeling, boating, sea kayak, paddle board, bicycles, horseback riding.

Rates: Full Experience: Prices range from $8,750$12,650 per night for private lodge buyout based on a maximum capacity of 22 people. Rates per room, per night range from $650-$1,600 based on a double occupancy.

Inclusions: Private use of Bahama House and amenities, guide service offering customized adventure itineraries, all gear necessary for activities, pre-arrival vacation planning and private concierge, one day of professional photography, use of property bicycles, exclusive use of scorpion RIB boat with captain, man island excursions, on-island transportation, chef prepared breakfast and après, lunch provided on-site or during activities, organic mini bar, luxury bath amenities, house wine, beer and spirits, round trip boat and taxi transfer to Harbour Island from North Eluethera Airport Exclusions: Dinner, lunch out, golf cart rentals, guided activities (e.g. fishing, scuba diving, kite boarding), spa treatments.

73

Scarp Ridge Lodge elevenexperience.com/experiences/hideouts/scarpridge-lodge/step-inside/ (Open year round) Location: Crested Butte, Colorado Number of rooms: 13,500 square feet, maximum capacity of 20 people, 5 king suites, 1 bunk room with 2 queen, 2 full and 3 twin beds, single nanny bedroom connecting to bunkroom, maximum capacity of 20 people.

Amenities: salt water pool, steam room, sauna, indoor and outdoor hot tubs, media room with HD projector and screen, children’s playroom, great room, library, gym equipped with cardio equipment and pilates, oxygen system, individual lockers for gear storage.

Summer Activities: Fly fishing, mountain biking, rock climbing, hiking, stand up paddle boarding, white water rafting, mountaineering.

Winter Activities: Cat skiing, resort skiing, crosscountry skiing, snowshoeing, dog sledding, ice-skating, ice climbing.

Rates: Winter: $17,235-$22,325 per night for private lodge buyout based on 10 guests/5 king suites; $3,180-$4,855 per room, per night (based on double occupancy).

Inclusions: Private use of Scarp Ridge Lodge and amenities, guide service offering customized adventure itineraries, all gear necessary for activities, pre-arrival and vacation planning and private concierge, one day of professional photography, use of on-mountain chalets, chef prepared breakfast, lunch, and après, organic mini bar, vacation planning and private concierge, guide service, use of on-mountain chalets, professional photography, house wine, beer, and spirits, airport transfers to Gunnison and Montrose.

Rates Summer: $7,855-$8,950 per night for private lodge buyout based on 10 guests/5 king suites; $1,430-$2,000 per room, per night (based on double occupancy).

Inclusions: Private use of Scarp Ridge Lodge and amenities, chef prepared breakfast and lunch, organic mini bar, vacation planning and private concierge, guide service, professional photography, house wine, beer and spirits, airport transfers to Gunnison and Montrose.

74

Taylor River Lodge elevenexperience.com/experiences/hideouts/taylorriver-lodge/step-inside/ (Seasonal June-December) Location: Almont, Colorado Number of rooms: Riverfront property that accommodates up to 32 guests; 6 private queen bedded cabins (3 cabins with twin bedded lofts), Rainbow Cabin with 2 queen bedded suites and lofted bunk room, The Green Drake (single family home) with 2 king bedded suites and a bunk room, Kokanee Lodge offering communal dining space, private bar, fireplace lounge and outdoor river-front seating.

Amenities: Chic bathhouse including steam room, sauna, and hot tub; gym/spa facility including two treatment rooms; game/media room with pool table, foosball and dartboard; private climbing wall; outdoor dining space; children’s teepee lounge; rainbow trout stocked casting pond.

Summer Activities (June-December): Fly fishing, mountain biking, rock climbing, hiking, off highway driving (OHV) – Tomcar, archery, rafting, Blue Mesa Lake activities, kids camp let by youth adventure specialist.

76

Rates: Full Property Buyout: $21,010-$24,490 (based on 24 person occupancy) The Green Drake: $5,320-$6,200 (based on 6 person occupancy) The Royal Wulff: $4,900-$5,640 (based on 6 person occupancy) Individual Cabins: $1,670-$2,250 (based on double occupancy) Inclusions: Private use of Taylor River Lodge and amenities, pre-arrival planning and private concierge, full guide service offering custom adventure itineraries, all gear for activities, in-house chef prepared meals, all house alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, daily turndown service and housekeeping, gourmet mini bar, townie bikes for use on property, use of private casting pond, full day accompanied by professional photographer, airport transfer from Montrose or Gunnison, transfers to Crested Butte. *Spa services and wellness classes, premium alcohol offered at an additional cost.

Chalet Pelerin elevenexperience.com/experiences/hideouts/chaletpelerin/step-inside/

Activities (summer): hiking, cycling, mountain biking, rock climbing, Via Ferrata, whitewater rafting.

Location: Le Miroir, France

Buyout or B&B Starting rate: Winter buyout: â‚Ź5,720 approx. $6,275 Winter buy room: â‚Ź770 approx. $844 Summer rates: On request

Number of rooms: 4 king suites + bunk room Amenities: lap pool, steam room, sauna, outdoor hot tub, media room, all gear.

Activities (winter): on-piste and off-piste skiing, heliskiing, snowshoeing, nordic skiing.

78

SwankyRetreats.com

Deplar Farm elevenexperience.com/experiences/hideouts/deplarfarm/step-inside/ Location: Northern Iceland Number of rooms: 12 King rooms + bunk room Amenities: Bar, library, steam room, indoor & outdoor saunas, indoor & outdoor hot tubs, gym, heli-pad, private theater, spa facility including I-sopod floatation tanks, salt water indoor/outdoor pool, all gear included.

Activities (winter): private or semi-private helicopter load, heli-skiing, ski touring, surfing, snowmobiling, sea kayaking, whale watching.

Activities (summer): fly fishing, hiking, biking, horseback riding, surfing, whale watching, stand up paddle boarding.

Buyout or B&B Starting rate: Per room: $1,750 Buy out: $21,000 These unique offerings put Eleven Experience on our radar and you shouldput them on yours as well. www.elevenexperience.com

SIPS:

Palmaz Vineyards

From the first glimpse of the distinctive, handcrafted label, the wine lover begins to understand the Palmaz family ethos: “Love the land, know the grape and make wine that honors both.”

To those familiar with the brand, a bottle of wine created by the Palmaz family evokes elegance, luxury, and the anticipation of pleasure on the palate. This was the intention of Dr. Julio Palmaz and his wife Amalia when they founded the winery. And so it remains today, as son Christian Gaston Palmaz and his sister Florencia continue the tradition started by their parents.

The Palmaz Family believes it’s the details that matter – large or small, all are important. Take for example the architectural of the winery, the history associated with the vineyard and the technology employed to complement nature and coax the best from each vine.

These vineyards are lovingly cultivated so that their prize – the very best grapes can be harvested each year.

“...Palmaz represents the forefront of modern winemaking. Take for example the gravity-flow winery, the Cave, an entirely subterranean 100,000-square foot structure bored 22 stories down into the bedrock of Napa’s Mount George.”

In its creative process, Palmaz represents the forefront of modern winemaking. Take for example the gravity-flow winery, the Cave, an entirely subterranean 100,000-square foot structure bored 22 stories down into the bedrock of Napa’s Mount George . The Cave has its own water-recycling treatment plant, which is a critical component of Palmaz’s commitment to sustainable viticulture.

SwankyRetreats.com

83

As the winery grew, a concurrent development of a proprietary Algorithmic Fermentation Control System took place, allowing the winemaker to do what she does best, focus solely on creating the very best the wine for that year. These initiatives and many more, have drawn the attention of one of the world’s best recognized technology icon, Apple, who noted the technology used is creating Palmaz wines is “the making of a modern vintage”.

But Julio and Amalia Palmaz, who purchased the estate in back 1997 knew that great wine is much more than science. Theirs is a labor of love that combines the traditions of fine wine making with cutting edge technology. Today, Florencia and Christian Gastón as well as Christian’s wife, Jessica Louise, continue to oversee the winery that makes harmonious use of tradition and technology to craft great vintages A visit to the 610 acres estate, is like a visit to a beautiful Finca hosted by an elegant and welcoming Argentinian family. Two generations work side by side, with an up and coming third generation in training. The elegant buildings and meticulously restored nineteenth century manor houses are surrounded by 64 acres of planted vineyards at three elevations, making the most of the varied terroirs and microclimates. With all this beauty above ground it’s hard to imagine that a lot of the magic of winemaking at Palmaz happens underground.

84

The center of the action is The Cave, a 7-year project best described as a cathedral-meets WWII bunker meets high-tech science lab, representing the epitome of self-contained, state of the art winemaking facility.

Here, the grapes are treated to a gentle winemaking system which preserves the full scope of the wine’s aroma and flavor.

Of course, no visit to Palmaz is complete without actually tasting the wine and discovering how it harmonizes with food. After touring the expansive winery alongside a knowledgeable Ambassador and learning how the wines are lovingly made, each guest is then invited to sit and taste the wine. Each varietal is thoughtfully paired with small bites that have been created to match beautifully with the individual wines.

The tasting also offers the visitor a true sense of how the wines will perform at their own table. This curated wine pairing experience was one of the first in Napa, no surprise given the family’s Argentinian heritage and lifestyle, revolving around family, food and wine.

The Palmaz family wants to ensure that every guest and collector feels like family. They’ve created the Brasas Wine Society so that these friends of the winery could enjoy the tradition of the Argentine Asado and get to meet one another.

Fittingly, the Brasas Wine Society’s three membership levels are named after Argentine fincas (farm estates) and ranchos (ranches):Chacra (a small farm in the Andes); Finca (a Spanish country estate); Estancia (an Argentine cattle ranch).

86

Brasas Wine Society members have priority access to all Palmaz Vineyards wines prior to their release; access to member-exclusive Brasas Cabernet Sauvignon (a Cabernet-Malbec blend) and participation in private events.

For more information on Palmaz Vineyards, please visit www.palmazvineyards.com. Tours and tastings are conducted by appointment only, 707 226 5587.

Best Urban Hotel Spa Spafinder Wellness 365™ Readers’ Choice

ENTER A WORLD OF BEAUTY AND ULTIMATE WELL-BEING

FOLLOW GUERLAIN SPA

Towers of the Waldorf Astoria 19th floor 100 East 50th Street New York, NY U.S.A. 10022 • 212.872.7200 • GuerlainSpas.com

CREDITS OUT AND ABOUT Page 6 Cockscomb

A LETTER FROM NORTH AMERICA: LOS ANGELES Pages 28-29 The Beverly Hills Hotel

Page 6 The Delano Beach Club Page 7 The Morris

A LETTER FROM NORTH AMERICA: NEW YORK Pages 30-31 Hotel 50 Bowery NYC

Page 7 Paper Plane Page 8 Tapas y Tintos

A LETTER FROM NORTH AMERICA: PORTLAND, MAINE Pages 32-33 Chebeague Island Inn

Page 8 Terrazas

SWELLEGANT STAYS Page 11 Craddock Terry Hotel Page 12 El Paseo Page 13 Grace Vanderbilt Page 14 The Inn at Dos Brisas Page 15 Ponte Verda Inn & Spa Page 16 Ritz Carlton Sarasota Page 17 San Francisco Proper Hotel Pages 18-19 St. Regis Aspen Resort

A ROAD LESS TRAVELED Pages 21,25-27 The Vintages Trailer Resort Pages 22-24 Domaine Drouhin Oregon

A LETTER FROM NORTH AMERICA: WASHINGTON D.C. Pages 34-35 The Darcy Hotel

A LETTER FROM EUROPE: LONDON Pages 36-37 45 Park Lane

A LETTER FROM AFRICA: MOZAMBIQUE Pages 38-39 Azura Quilalea Private Island, Azura Benguerra Island

A LETTER FROM EUROPE: SWITZERLAND Pages 40-41 Tschuggen Grand Hotel

A LETTER FROM THE SOUTH PACIFIC: TETIAROA Pages 42-43 The Brando

NAPLES...

PUTTIN' ON THE RITZ Pages 45-48,50 The Ritz-Carlton, Naples SWANKY NIGHTS: PROVIDENCE AND SAN JOSE Pages 52-55 Visit Rhode Island Page 54 The Dean Hotel Page 55 The Hot Club Page 55 The Dorrance Page 55 Providence GPub Page 56 The Fairmont San Jose Page 56 ADEGA Restaurant Page 57 The Grandview Restaurant WINNING THROUGH BORDEAUX Pages 58-68 Andrew Innerarity

ADRENALINE RUSH Pages 70-80 Eleven Experience

SWANKY SIPS: PALMAZ VINEYWARDS Pages 82-86 Palmaz Vineyards

Moon Palace just got grander, at The Grand at Moon Palace Cancun. New luxe accommodations.

Sky-high water slides. World-class dining and nightlife. A luxurious spa. Your kingdom is now an empire. And to help you make the most of it, we’ll give you up to US $1,500 in Resort Credit toward spa treatments, golf, tours and other amazing experiences.

PLUS, KIDS AND TEENS STAY FREE.* The Grand at Moon Palace Cancun. Live Grandly.

1-800-635-1836 MoonPalace.com/TheGrand

*Requires at least one paying adult to qualify. Must be 17 years old or younger at the time of travel in order to qualify. Additional terms and conditions apply.

.