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Pet Pals

By Kim Bius

Spring Preparation

February in southeast Texas marks the beginning of rose season. It is also the prep month or “foundation” month for spring. There is so much to do, address, plan, and put into action. It seems the “action” gear is the one many of us have the most problem with. Gardeners are such fair-weather participants… if the weather is beautiful, we flood the local garden centers, like birds in migration; if it is brutally cold and wet, we look out the window and look at magazines or online. We have to chuckle; such is our nature. As we move into late January through early February, the “to do” list is large, and the following should help you decide which priorities you should address first in your landscape, because each is a bit different.

Planting time - Late winter is the best time to purchase and plant fruit trees, blueberries, grapes, blackberries, and roses. Selection is at its best during late winter. If you are looking for hard-to-find selections, look now. Roses and fruit trees require a full sun area (a minimum of direct, unfiltered sun on roses and 8 hours on fruit trees). Fruit trees and roses do not play well with clay soils, so prepare your area with 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 sandy topsoil, and 1/3 black humus, and raise the area 2”- 3” + above grade for added drainage. Correct placement of “site” is 30% of successful fruit tree and rose production. For instance, pecan trees prefer rich, sandy river bottom land, and peach trees require excellent drainage but consistent watering. Pruning time - Valentine’s Day is the target date for fruit tree and rose pruning. Fruit trees should be pruned 20%; thin out crossing branches for easy harvest and removal of dead wood. Roses should be pruned to 12” to 18” from the graft, with 3-5 main canes left only. Antique ramblers, pillar roses, and many hybrid climbing roses will bloom on last year’s wood; be careful, and do not prune old growth more than 20%, and remove dead wood. Side shoots and crossing branches should be removed as well. Apply pruning paint to canes or limbs over 1.5” in caliber, and always prune directly above (1”) the outwardly facing bud and cut at a 45-degree angle. Sharp pruners are a necessity; Corona makes the best! If wood is diseased, please wipe blade in bleach or alcohol between cuts. Perennials, such as daylilies, hydrangea, mums, can be pruned to a few inches above the ground. If a late winter freeze is expected or winter is lingering, wait a few additional weeks.

Fertilization - Fruit trees and roses should be planted with a good dose of root stimulator upon installation and again in 4-6 weeks. At this time, depending on the variety of plant, your regular fertilization schedule would begin. Roses are fertilized once a month through the growing season. The first fertilizer application on fruit trees is late winter before they break dormancy and new growth appears. Basically, now! Fruit trees require .01 pounds of fertilizer per 1” of trunk diameter and a 3-12 ratio. Fertilome makes an excellent fruit and nut tree fertilizer.

Pest control - Dormant oil is an excellent choice for the gardener who is staying away from chemical applications. Dormant oil basically “smoothers” insects and fungi growth and works as a preventative. It is inexpensive and can be applied until full leaf out occurs.

Best Wishes for a bountiful spring. Happy Gardening.

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