Selva Beat

ISSUE 03

VOLUME 02

BEAUTY FASHION CULTURE & FOOD

AN ENVIRONMENTAL LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE

Selva Beat is an environmental lifestyle magazine. We take environmentalism and place it in the context of your favorite topics — food, beauty, fashion, sex, love, culture — to make activism as accessible and engaging as possible. Founded in 2014, we began as a way of educating the public about conflict palm oil and have expanded into a multi-media platform that motivates others to better the planet through creative means. As a print publication, we produce two perfectbound magazines a year. On the web, we publish articles, stories, and features weekly. No material of this publication may be reproduced in any form without express written consent from Selva Beat Magazine. 2017 Selva Beat Magazine. All rights reserved.

On the Cover #SBgurl Meggie Copeland, photographed by Mika Locklear. Details on page 9.

An environmental lifestyle magazine Issue 03 $ 2017

Editor in Chief Magdalena AntuĂąa Print Editor Brianna Carney Head Photographer Mika Locklear Staff Writer Rachel Lees

Web Editor Elizabeth Stilwell Food Editor Irvianne Torremoro Test Kitchen Manager Paula Farmahini Editor at Large Collin Philips

A very special thanks to... Luchia Langley Shiro Cosmetics Dolores Haze Meow Meow Tweet Plant Makeup Nutcase Vegan Meats Vesta Studio All family and friends Work With Us selvabeat.com / advertise Wholesale sales@selvabeat.com

Openings selvabeat.com / jobs Corrections hello@selvabeat.com

Andrew Benys Model

Luchia Langley Illustrator

Miachel Breton Photographer

Hannah Lasure Model

Meggie Copeland Cover Model

Sanetra Longo Model

Eunice Cota Model

Cristelle Martins Model

Dominique Drakeford Writer

Kiana McDaniel Model

Rachel Farnsworth Model

Kristen Orr Model

Richelle Dian Gomez Model

Vivian Shih Illustrator

Hollie Dee Hart Photographer

Blair Stokes Model

Dara Kleyer Writer

AngĂŠlica Valadez Model

What’s Inside? EVERY ISSUE

What is Palm Oil? 98

It's Easy Being Green 26

Letter from the Editor 08

Directory 100

FASHION

Beauty All that glitters is not green. 12 Pretty on Par 14 The Lazy Girl's Guide to Self-Care 16 Glossin' 19 On the Cover 09 Stuff We Love 10

Ladies and Gentlemen 20

Style Crush: Crocs 30

Food Ask Gaia 61 On Tour with Slowkiss 64 When Activism Equals Death 66

The Starting Line 35 All American Gurl 40

Dogtown, USA 78 Seoul Sisters 81

Orchard Grocer Offers Compassionate Convenience in NYC 70 An Eco-Friendly Guide to Berlin 74

The Forest in Our Fabrics 50 Cacio E Pepe 86

When in Rome 52 Culture Preserving the Soul of Sneaker Culture 58

Girl About Town: Vegas 87 Find the Palm Oil 77

Barkada Dinner Special 88

Letter from the Editor Often, as I’m scrolling through our Instagram feed, I see a statement by publications and fashion labels alike. Something akin to, “No models. Just real women.” So, I suppose I want to set the record straight right now and say that we don’t abide by that ethos. Primarily because creating the dichotomy between models and “real women” makes it harder for “real women” to be seen as models. When you perpetuate that disparity, nothing changes. And what the hell is a real woman, anyway? Throughout this issue, you will see a whole spectrum of bodies. I chose each one, personally, because their portfolio spoke to me, and because I hoped their presence on film would breathe life into the story we are trying to tell — that’s our ethos. In the ethical and ecofriendly fashion sphere, our prioritizing creativity and representation over industry standards

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creates an interesting problem. Brands and labels tend to be emergent startups, so small that they generally only have one sample size that they can lend us. That size is never consistent, but it is always within the range of a 0 and a 4. As I said earlier, we choose models based on the caliber of their photographic work, and this time around, that meant that brands either could not or would not lend us pieces. There’s a lot of thrift in this issue, all of which will be available online in our shop. I’m hoping that some day, that will be a conscious action and not our only choice. However, I do invite you to marvel at what you can find at your local secondhand store, which I think we prove in this issue can be pretty infinite. We’re not a fashion magazine; we’re an everything magazine. But I have to say, the fashion in this issue is pretty damn amazing.

On the Cover Inspired by one of Diane Lane's earliest roles (see pg 20), we attempted to make the most "everyday" punk look possible using palm oil free and vegan products. If you want to try the look at home: The pointed tip of Axiology's lip crayon lets you draw the perfect serpent's tongue wing, which can be cleaned up using an angled concealer

brush.

To

avoid

creasing, set the wing using Shiro Cosmetics' eyeshadow. Finally, line your eyes with 100% PURE's black tea liquid liner, taking it into the inner corner and along the lower lash line.

100% P URE Lo ng Last Liq uid Eye Liner: B lack Te a, $30

Axiology Lip Crayon in Keen, $26 Try a super black mascara from Hanami Cosmetics, now available on Shiro

selvabeat.com/shop

Cosmetics eyeshadow in Violence Solves Everything, $6.50

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3.

2. 6.

5.

1.

4.

Stu We Love $ All the cool things that kept our team going during the making of this issue. TGIF — Thank God it’s Fenty!

1. Portable Contour & Concealer Brush 150 by Fenty Beauty, $24

) 2. Invisimatte ReďŹ llable ) 3.

Blotting Paper by Fenty Beauty, $16

Wanda Silver PiĂąatex open-toe wedge sandal by Po-Zu, $168.95

)

4. Jasmine Green

Tea Balancing Toner by Herbivore Botanicals, $39

)

5. All About Eve blush by Hanami

Cosmetics, $23.77

)

6. Premium by Sam

Evian via Saddle Creek Records, $20

Hanami Cosmetics is now available in our shop at selvabeat.com/shop 10

AngĂŠlica is wearing Greenpoint Glitter in Chunky Gold and Chunky Silver ($12).

All that glitters is not green. Written by Elizabeth Stilwell. Photography by Mika Locklear, featuring Angélica Valadez. Our penchant for shiny things can be traced back to a primitive desire for water, a vital resource that our ancestors had to seek out. Coincidentally, it is that same resource now so easily flowing from our taps that is impacted by our quest to make things shine with glitter. is

Conventional

made

from

glitter

Polyethylene and

using biodegradable, natural

In order for it to break down,

microplastics like these pass

materials. Products made from

the material must be exposed

right through water filtration

minerals and mica provide more

to heat, water, and oxygen

systems and into lakes and

shimmer than glitter, so if you

to initiate metabolization by

oceans. PET’s effects in the wild

are looking for the latter, we’ve

microorganisms.

are similar to that of microbeads

got a sparkly scoop for you.

happen in the elements, in

Terephthalate

(PET),

This

can

compost, or in seawater; the

— an environmental problem that culminated in the banning

Greenpoint Glitter is created

end

of that ingredient in the US in

from

is

2015. The tiny particles add to

biodegradable

derived

and

the growing amount of debris

from sustainable sources. It is

find

making up marine pollution,

antimony-free,

cruelty-free,

stocked at your nearest craft

chemicals in the plastics leach

and

compostable.

store, but with a little extra

into the water, and marine

Have no fear, this glitter will

effort you can avoid giving

animals

sparkliest

not degrade on your shelf while

more

snack they never wanted. The

awaiting your next glitz-fest —

beleaguered

only way to avoid this less

its

even as you get your glitter on.

than desirable situation is by

on

get

the

special

GMO-free film

certified

biodegradation composting

depends

result carbon

of

the

dioxide,

biomass.

You

Greenpoint

grief to

our

Mother

process water, won’t Glitter

already Earth,

conditions.

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Pretty on Par Field tested. Putt putt approved.

Featuring Rachel Farnsworth. Photographed & styled by Hollie Dee Hart. Clothing provided by Revival Vintage. We took #SBgurl Rachel and our favorite longwear

makeup

products

for

a

round

of mini-golf in the sweltering Texas heat. No one made a hole-in-one, but these

o eF im Lily Lolo Pr

cu s

Eye

beauty

products

aced

our

test.

Lily Lolo Makeup Mist, $18

green

lid Pri mer, $15

M

od

M

lu sh

i

e n rn M ow ine Su had mm rals Eyes 0 er Samba, $13.5

oth

B ar yB 0 er Ear t u a 1 th B e k, $ in Pe rfectly Pin

Set It Up Setting powders often contain palm oil in the form of glycerin, stearates, and palmitates. Try one of these more eco-chic options for a sure thing. To keep Rachel’s eyeshadow from creasing, we primed her lids and set them with a translucent powder before applying shadow.

Glossier Wowder Available in 3 shades, $22 RMS “Un Powder” Available in 3 shades or translucent, $34

6

100% PURE Bamboo Blur Translucent Powder, $39

B

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Featuring Cristelle Martins. Photographed by Mika Locklear. Introduction by Magdalena AntuĂąa with artwork by Elizabeth Stilwell.

characterization

is

antithetical

to

my

Type A existence, but my style and skincare routine would say otherwise. All throughout my childhood and adolescence, my mother tried to (lovingly) break me of my tomboy ways. Long before ten-step routines made it to the zeitgeist, she taught me the value of self-care through face

Essenti als Glo w Stick in Gold en Ros e, $14.9 5

The

Zabana

I’ve always been a self-proclaimed lazy girl.

masks, manicures, and foot soaks — all in front of the glow of our favorite movie or TV show. It was totally vital to my mental health as a teen. But being a full-time student morphed into being a full-time employee, and the world just kept M

spinning and spinning.

ilk pS ine

sh

un

self-care routine. First, multipurpose products are

eu ak

I’ve had to make some adjustments to my adult

M

To cheat the system and trick my lazy girl core,

Oi

key. With a few quick swipes, Zabana Essentials’

39

l, $

Glow Sticks can seal and rejuvenate dull skin, highlight the high points of your face, and can even be used as a quick cream eyeshadow or lip color. Milk Makeup’s Sunshine Oil helps you deep condition your cuticles, lips, dark circles — you name it — with a nifty roller ball and futuristic design. Secondly, cuteness is a good motivator. I’m much more likely to use a product if it tempts me with its quirkiness or beauty. Pure Strawberries Cocofloss is fun enough to make you floss, and French Girl’s Rose Lip Polish has a permanent spot in my medicine cabinet. Finally, if you can reuse it, get it. Buying sheet masks over and over again is a chore and also not super sustainable. 100% PURE’s Bright Eyes Masks can be used a few times before you have to throw the plant-based (95% aloe water, 5% plant cellulose) jellies away. Grab a 5 Pack to save time and

8 berries, $ ure Straw P in ss o Cocofl

olish, $15 Lip P se

Ro irl

100% PURE

Bright Eyes Mask 5 Pack, $30

money!

Fr e

nc

hG

17

Cristelle

is

wearing

a

Zabana Essentials Glow Stick in the shade Rose Gold. Lazy Girl Eco-Tip: Trade a plastic shower cap for a vintage t-shirt.

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DreamTeam.doc File

Edit

B

Options

Yolo

M

Featuring Kristen Orr, photographed by Mika Locklear

and

styled

by Magdalena Antuña.

Glossin.doc File

Edit

Options

Yolo

O

Glossin' Wasn't it Alexander Pope who said, "To glow is human; to gloss, divine"? No? Well, if the 18th century poet knew a thing about beauty trends, he might have. We're all for the natural radiance created by cream and powder highlighters, but there's something just divine about a vinyl sheen. Get this flossy, editorial look without palm oil or animal testing by using our recommendations below.

3. 4. 1.

1. Urb Apothecary Highlighting Serum, $22. Swipe this roller ball on the high points of your face for a colorshifting iridescence that is anything but subtle. 2. Zabana Essentials Illuminating Glow Serum, $21.95. Mix this in with your powder foundation for a bronze-y glow, or

2.

apply a few drops straight to your legs. 3. Dusk Cosmetics High Noon Eyeshadow, $7. An instant smoky eye that requires zero precision in application — pack pigment onto your lids with a brush or finger. 4. Gressa Lip Boost in Radiant, $29. A super moisturizing lip color that can be used as a sheer balm or built up for a mega slick pout.

LADIES AND GENTLEMEN Starring Meggie Copeland. Styling and makeup by Magdalena Antuña. Concept by Madeleine Tritico. Photographed by Mika Locklear.

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In 1982, Diane Lane starred in Ladies and Gentlemen, the Fabulous Stains — a film about a 17-year old girl whose punk garage band skyrockets to fame after an unrelated TV interview. On its face, it is a coming-of-age flick about authenticity and identity. Unintentionally, it's also a bomb allegory for the pitfalls of blogging, publications, and corporate sponsorship. Spoiler alert: In the film, Corrine — our lead character — is worshipped for her uniqueness. In an attempt to stay financially afloat and take ownership of her idolatry, she begins selling merchandise for her band — a Corrine DIY kit, if you will. Fans are incensed by her greed (among other things but, spoilers) and her career is effectively ruined. The drama raises an age old question: when does survival transition to selling out?

Meggie is wearing a vintage Mahjong Tile Robe ($12) and secondhand sheer, checkered crop top ($4) both from Buffalo Exchange. On the previous spread: Wooden Anne Marie Beard earrings.

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To quote Erykah Badu, our eyes are green ‘cause we eat a lotta vegetables. ("It has nothing to do with you and your new friends.") Here are three creative ways to sport green, from mint to emerald, without any St. Patrick’s Day vibes. Featuring Kiana McDaniel. Styled by Meggie Copeland. Photographed by Mika Lockear.

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Try Au Naturale Cosmetics' Essential Eye Pencil in Meadow ($22) for a similar look, using your

foreďŹ nger

to

soften

the teardrop line at the end.

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With a wet angled brush, apply Real Purity's pressed eyeshadow Aqua and Peacock ($15.99) to the inside of your lid, concentrating the color in a sharp triangle shape like the above. With a fluffy brush, apply Root's loose shadow Mojito ($10) and move outward, creating a gradient from turquoise to mint.

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Earth

Mineral

Cosmetics'

Green Gold shadow ($8 on Etsy) is the perfect shade for trying out a shape like this upsidedown triangle. This chartreuse leans gold light

and will reflect

beautifully,

revealing

your design as you move.

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A series about how to style passé items that ultimately end up bogging down thrift centers and dumps. No stigma, no waste! This issue, we're exploring uncharted territory: Crocs. Photography by Mika Locklear. If the fashion industry were a dodgeball team,

They’re made from Croslite™, a proprietary

I think most would agree that Crocs wouldn’t

material made from closed cell resin —

even be picked last. Since their 2002 debut —

meaning they are neither biodegradable nor

at a Floridian boat show, no less — they have

recyclable with other plastics. You could go

fallen far from public grace. At the height of

the route of corporate donation, but these

their infamy, you could find a strange array

unloved shoes will just be dumped onto

of famous people, from Leighton Meester

people in the developing world. It seems that

and Uma Thurman to George Bush and Iggy

the best option really is for humanity to suck

Pop, wearing the nautical shoe in tabloids.

it up and wear secondhand Crocs.

Designers, including Christopher Kane last year at London Fashion Week, have attempted

Yes. We are proposing environmental

to revive them at the luxury level but, the idea

fashion martyrdom. Wear aquatic clogs, save

just hasn’t translated to the general public.

the planet. Knowing that this is a hard sell, we asked five stylists that we love and trust the

While many shoes aren’t recyclable, Crocs

big question: How do we make Crocs cool

pose an interesting environmental problem.

again?

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Leslie Llozano @LeslieLlozano

spin. I'm always on the go, so comfort

How did you style it?

is my biggest concern, but I love to

I decided to stay in the same color

layer and accessorize — even in this

palette as the shoe and take more

Texas humidity.

of a 90s route. I focused on an all-denim look with pops of red

Did you have to overcome anything? I think the biggest challenge with styling

How would you describe your

these Crocs is making sure the outfit

personal style? I'd describe my

didn’t look like I just had a long night out

style as leisure chic with a 90s

and couldn't last in my heels any longer.

and

vintage

accessories.

I

was

surprised by how much I ended up liking this look — I might have to apologize to my college roommate for making fun of her purple Crocs!

Leslie is wearing a pair of Crocs Freesail Water Clogs, $17 from Ebay.

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Kristina is wearing a pair of Crocs Classic Fuzz Lined Clogs in Ballerina Pink, scored from Ebay for $15.

Julia Dixon @JuliaArdenDixon Describe your own personal style: I would say my personal style is a combination of comfort and the illusion of a chick who is effortlessly cool. ;P

Kristina Sevillano @Cybr.Grl

My favorite looks are comprised of vintage Levi’s, whether they be perfectly tailored or slouchy

How would you describe your personal style?

bf jeans, super soft, thrashed tees, with a comfortable

Very loud, very colorful and very out there. I feel

pair of shoes and some sort of accessory to pull the

like everyday is like your birthday — you should

look together (i.e. a cute vest, statement earrings, a scarf,

dress up and have fun with what you’re wearing.

or — if I’m feeling saucy — all of these!). My wardrobe is 90% thrift (no joke!), with the other 10% generally being

How did you style these Crocs? I kind of looked

newly bought shoes or accessories and clothing from

at the textures, and the colors, and how it made

independent designers — fuck mass retailers! Am I right?!

me feel. Like the baby pink, it made me feel very cute, very kawaii. Especially the fur inner sole — it

What's the biggest challenge with this pair? Aside from

looked really comfortable and kind of made me

the obvious challenge of styling a pair of Crocs in a cool-

feel sleepy at the same time — like those big, fluffy

ish fashion, I would say the vibrant color. I love the bright

slippers that you wear at Christmastime. That is

orange though! [It’s] such a fall color and I even think it will

kind of the style I wanted to portray in the look —

carry on into the springtime too. So if done right, this pair

a sleepy, pastel princess.

would be the perfect statement piece.

Did you have to overcome anything? The only

How would you style it? Honestly, if you would have asked

thing that I had to overcome was just that stigma

me a year ago if I would ever rock a pair of Crocs, I would

of, you know, Crocs. When you think of Crocs,

have LOL’d. Now I can’t take em off and all my friends non-

when you think of Uggs, you’re like, that’s kind of

stop tag me in Croc related memes — it’s a lifestyle for

basic. But then you think of the possibilities. The

sure and I’m committed!

thing I like about Crocs is that you can customize them — that’s the reason they made those little

How I typically wear them / how I think these orange Crocs

holes. There’s even this designer that added a

would kill: Outfit 1 ~ I’m all about the white-on-white outfit

platform sole to the Croc with light-up thingies

combo, so I think a really rad look would be a big, thrashed

on the sides, and it was so cool. The thing about

white vintage t-shirt (for me it would be my 90’s Looney

me with clothes is that I don’t really care about

Tunes tee I scored in Portland) tucked in or loose and

the label. I’ve never been after the latest like

paired with white or even cream flared, high-waisted pant

Gucci bag or whatever. If I see something and it’s

with a slight crop. I think Crocs look best with pants when

cool, I’ll get it. Who cares if it’s Crocs — it’s cute so

they are cropped right above the ankle.

you just buy it. Outfit 2 ~ For a dressier look, I would pair them with a tailored trouser (also with a cropped fit) in navy with a light blue button-up blouse tucked in — added bonus if the button-up has pleated puff sleeves since, ya know, that’s also a hot trend right now! Light blue and orange contrast really nicely, so I think any top in that color would be perfect. Then throw a pair of edgy statement earrings in the mix, and you’re all set!

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Nicole Seligman @WritesLikeAGirl Describe your own personal style: I recently started

describing

my

style

as

“Colorful,

Comfortable, Chic.” I have always incorporated

Rebecca Payne @SisterPetra

a lot of vintage into my closet, but my style has shifted to focus on more casual outfits since starting to work from home. Some of my favorite

Describe your own personal style: I would

pieces include floral culottes, denim smock

describe my personal style as minimal with quirky

dresses, and colorful striped shirts.

details. I like to stay comfortable in breathable, natural fabrics, but I love the opportunity to spice

What's the biggest challenge with this pair? My

up my look with a trendy accessory or funky

initial turn-off to these Crocs was the particular

vintage piece.

leopard print used. It isn't exactly a chic take on the animal print, as the circles are all small

What's the biggest challenge with this pair? My

and close in proximity. However, I used to treat

biggest style challenge with this pair of Crocs is

leopard as a neutral in my closet, so I warmed up

that they are Crocs. Haha. [However,] I do endorse

to them pretty quickly!

making use of what you have instead of always buying new. If you happen to own a pair of Crocs

How would you style it? If you squint, the shape

or run across them in a second-hand shop, then

of these Crocs isn't all that different from a pair

certainly give them a go.

of clogs — an item I wear constantly. Relating the shoe to something else I already wear made

How would you style it? These shoes are bulky by

styling them quite a bit easier! My go-to outfit

design, and the pattern makes them an attention

with these leopard print babes would be a pair

grabber. Because of this I would go super minimal

of high-waisted mom jeans with a t-shirt loosely

with the rest of your outfit. Definitely keep your

tucked in. I'm usually pro-pattern mixing, but with

bottoms tapered. I would recommend tights or

this leopard print I'm digging the idea of bold solid

cropped tailored trousers. This would be a fun

colors instead of a second pattern. I have

item to try with a monochrome look. Wear shades

a white and red ringer tee that I

of one color head to toe and then break it up with

think would be fun! To top

unexpected footwear like Crocs! All black would

it off, I'd add a bright

be an obvious choice, but I'm envisioning a navy

yellow

blue or red outfit with this particular pair.

for some cheerful

backpack

power clashing.

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XLI WXEVXMRK PMRI Androgynous style need not be intimidating. If wearing a baroque, quilted suit à la David Bowie seems advanced then, we would argue that the track pant is perfect for beginners. This sporty piece is generally cheap at thrift stores, accommodating to many body types, and available in a wide array of cool finishes and cuts — from iridescent to flared. Read on to see how we styled three iconic pairs.

Featuring Andrew Benys and Blair Stokes. Photographed by Mika Locklear.

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Here Sanetra is wearing the Lenore Off-theShoulder Ruffle Top ($84) from sustainable brand Dolores Haze.

ALL AMERICAN GURL Featuring Sanetra Longo. Photography by Mika Locklear. Introduction by Elizabeth Stilwell.

American history is rife with loaded terms: “heritage” to some means servitude to others; “the good old days” can invoke times of either uncontested privilege or oppression. “Americana” is a term that conjures idyllic images of classic cars, malt shops, and main streets. While these images are technically true, the genesis of this trope is a suburban middle-class white experience. In mid-century America, white families were lured to suburbs with housing loans and highways, while black families were denied mortgages and equal education. White flight from cities required a vehicle, giving a boost to the automobile industry and car culture. From there, a homogenous visual of American life emerged — a single-family home with a white picket fence and a shiny car with your beautiful wife dutifully beside you in the passenger seat. Rebellious activities associated with car culture — hot rodding and drag racing — were reserved for men and deemed too dangerous for women. Instead, women were relegated to scarf waving, literally and metaphorically watching men zoom past in a race for independence, higher wages, and body autonomy we still have not won. We believe Americana needs an update.

.

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90s cut black tank with gold shimmer from Savers ($4.99). 90s style berry skirt from Texas Thrift ($4.98). Green "Lizzie McGuire" slipon sandals from Savers ($4.99). All secondhand.

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70s style rainbow bandeau from Buffalo Exchange ($4). Vintage red houndstooth buttonup pencil skirt from Texas Thrift ($4.98). Electric blue vinyl sling back heels from Goodwill ($12.99)

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Previous page: Pink drape neck ruched tank from Savers ($4.99). Vegan python pin-up shorts from Dolores Haze ($115).

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Black Levi’s 505 men’s straight leg jeans from eBay ($11). Silk butterfly halter top from Savers ($3). Leopard creepers are stylist’s own, from Buffalo Exchange.

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The Forest in Our Fabrics by Rachel Lees

Choosing what to wear in my mornings goes something like this: go to the closet and pull an outfit out that best suits my day’s needs, taking into consideration every weather possibility and every other potential scenario. Five minutes later: eye myself up and down in the mirror and decide I really don’t look good. Pick a second outfit. Cry because it looks terrible and I have nothing to wear. Go back to first outfit. Something like that, anyway. My mother-in-law, however, does not have this problem — she makes all of her own clothes. There’s no dramatic decision making moment in her mornings as her clothes are always made from the same pattern: a long white smock top and white harem pants, always paired with white nail polish on her fingers and toes. Like some sort of personified unicorn, she completely rocks it, and I am unattractively jealous of her skills. Of course, what looks good isn’t the only consideration that comes into the great clothes debate when you are a semi-conscious (n.b. work in progress) consumer like I am. The items that are in my closet have been bought with my best intentions of avoiding

big brand names that I

know to be associated with unscrupulous practices. Since 2013, when

50

the infamous clothing factory in Bangladesh

in Indonesia, endangered species like sunbears

(Rana Plaza) collapsed, killing over a thousand

and gibbons have been impacted, in South Africa

people, the global community became acutely

baboon habitat has been completely lost. It’s not

aware of the very human impact we have when

only the land that suffers either but the indigenous

we purchase our clothes. Myself included.

communities who have lived in harmonious

We learned that many of those well-loved big

relationship with it for generations. The forests

brands have a complicated production process

have

that includes a huge number of underpaid,

sustained their living, but it’s even more complex

overworked people working in outrageously

than that, too. A lot of indigenous lands around

dangerous and unacceptable conditions.

the world are protected by traditional rights but

long

provided

their

livelihoods

and

not legal. So when big corporations earmark their That’s one of the stories entangled in the fibers

land for monocropping, governments happily sell

of our clothes. A step before this manufacturing

the rights of this "unowned" land to to them,

process, however, is a lesser known story — the

leaving their own people with little resources or

forest in our fabrics.

access to the rights they need to maintain the land they have loved and lived on for generations.

Fabrics like rayon, viscose and modal — everyday textiles that our closets are likely filled with — are

The morning closet mayhem just got a bit more

made from trees. It’s a complicated process that

complicated, didn’t it? There is hope, though.

takes this "raw material" from the forests to our

Firstly, there are incredible organizations like the

clothing stores floors, but it’s one with a huge

Rainforest Action Network who are working hard

impact. It goes something like this: the corners

to hold the companies sourcing their materials in

of our planet that are covered in rich, diverse

this way accountable and to make the production

forest lands are stripped bare (places like Canada

process more transparent. You can even ask the

and Indonesia) and replaced with monocropped

brands you love to tell you where they source

plantations of acacia or eucalyptus. A very toxic

their material from — you’re who they want to

process takes these trees and dissolves them

keep sweet after all! Not only that, but there

into a pulp, which is then spun into thread and

are so many ways in which you can keep forests

manufactured into clothes by big-name brands

from the fabrics that make it into your closet.

that we all know and "love." It’s a highly intensive

Thrift shopping is one way, using online second

process that is demanded by our insatiable

hand sites like eBay, holding clothes swaps, and

consumer habits which tell manufacturers that

even by getting the sewing machine out like

we want these clothes at the cheapest price

my mother-in-law and making your own from

possible and in high quantities.

materials you know you can trust. (The Rainforest

The problems of this process are both obvious and

materials to favour — we recommend exploring

subtle. Chopping down indigenous and diverse

their website.)

Action Network has a really helpful guide on what

forests has very physical implications on the land, leaving local ecosystems completely changed.

As I said, I’m a work in progress. Starting with my

Rivers and streams that local communities have

closet. My morning battle from this point out is

always depended on in these areas dry up as

going to be concerned less with how good I look

a result of losing their established canopies.

but how good what I’m wearing looks for the

Wildlife is displaced as they lose their habitats;

planet and people. Are you with me?

51

For workwear inspiration, we looked to the Fall 2017 runway shows of Italy's most iconic fashion houses. And then we went thrifting. Featuring Hannah Lasure. Photographed by Mika Locklear.

52

Inspired by Max Mara and Trussardi, we hunted down this tan and white pinstripe suit at our local Goodwill ($20) and paired it with a vintage t-shirt ($10, Leopard Lounge) and brown spool heels ($5) from Texas Thrift.

oth dsto Houn t, $10 lva acke Se t J a e B

and M Bliss

Arde n Wo hl x C and v intag DC Carr i e Ch inese ngton Lo afer, Exp o Mart rt Ea $18 eau.c o, $8 rrings fro 0 m 9

ischie f

DE SMET Wra

p Trouser in In

k, $395

If you've already scoured your local thrift stores, here are some styles you can buy online.

Bha va S tudi o Ed itor

Ankle Bootie in Burg undy, $249

Short Flig

ht Suit in

54

Rose, $37 8

In the spirit of Bottega Veneta, we looked for suit jackets with longer hemlines and round shoulders. We bought this jacket at Texas Thrift for $7 and paired it with a grey and blue pinstripe pant ($5).

Giorgio Armani got us looking for silk tops & trench coats with clean lines. This champagne lace silk cami ($10, Goodwill) and brown faux Burberry skirt ($4, Texas Thrift) paired perfectly with a trench dress ($7, Texas Thrift) that we styled as a jacket.

57

Preserving the Soul of Sneaker Culture From Converse to Conscious: Tracing Sustainability in Athletic Shoes. By Dominique Drakeford. Illustrated by Vivian Shih.

Other sneaker brands like Adidas, Reebok, and Puma came to market beginning in the 70s, but the 80s revolutionized sneakers forever. In 1984, Michael Jordan debuted his first Air Jordan collaboration, and two years later, Run DMC made their hit song “My Adidas” — sneaker culture took root and a modern hip-hop sensibility grew into

The concept of athletic shoes or “sneakers”

it. There’s no real formal definition of “sneaker

has been around since the 1800s, but wearing

culture.” It’s the heartbeat of hip-hop, the pulse

them didn’t become “sneaker culture” until

of sports, and the backbone of inner city lifestyle.

it was deemed cool by the streets — by black

The 80s were pivotal in black culture. It’s no

and brown kids growing up in poverty. The first

secret that the Reagan Era created policies that

iconic sneaker, the Converse All-Star basketball

weren’t geared toward the economic well-being

shoe, debuted in 1917 and their Chuck Taylors

of black America. With obvious racism, high

were the first to go mainstream. There’s no

poverty, and the continued negative effects of

argument that Chucks, with their rubber sole and

Nixon’s war on drugs, being black in America had

canvas body, helped bring basketball into the

its overt challenges — the silver lining was unified

global arena. Converse outfitted athletes from

cultural resilience. Harmful policies implemented

the New York Renaissance, the first all African-

under Reagan strengthened Afrocentric and

American basketball team, to the USA’s first

pro black movements, which had distinctive

Olympic basketball team. Later, players like Wilt

style. The decade yielded pride, especially with

Chamberlain sported Chucks, which became part

achievements like the debut of the Cosby Show

of basketball tradition. It was the communities

and Oprah’s legendary talk show that would go

watching their favorite athletes like Chamberlain

on to air for 25 seasons. Visibility in the black

score 100 points while wearing Chucks that

community was powerful. People felt good and

authentically created this subculture, forever

wanted to look good, and showing off style was

transforming a utilitarian item into a stylish one.

a cultural norm.

58

This overlap between athletes, hip-hop artists,

a lot of people, when you can’t have anything as

and street style reflected the culture’s lived

a kid, you sort of grow up with an obsession. For

reality. The DNA of the culture was always about

me, Jordans were always the epitome of cool.”

creating an identity and sneaker culture in the context of fashion created important notions of

Wearing sneakers is now a global practice without

inclusivity. The flip side however, is that looking

racial barriers. Thanks to fast fashion, consumers

“cool” had a psychological shadow of wanting

want the next coolest design and colorway,

and almost “needing” material things because

which in turn garners fast manufacturing in the

the black community felt like they needed to be

athletic footwear arena— even popular brands

seen, heard, and recognized.

like Nike have admitted to forced and child labor. Although the average sneaker requires

FROM THE PLAYGROUND TO THE RUNWAY

more craftsmanship than the average garment, materials and production processes are less than

After MJ and Run DMC garnered product

sustainable, and fair trade is not mandated.

endorsements, it wasn’t long before athletes and rappers partnered with major shoe companies to

THE CASE FOR CULTURAL SUSTAINABILITY

release exclusive collaborations or be the face of the brands’ marketing engines. Historically,

Sustainability

mainstream white America has always taken

America is still a growing ideology. Despite the

within

urban

communities

in

what’s cool in urban subcultures and used it

fact that communities of color historically had a

to make money. Sneakers have infiltrated all

rich culture of holistic and sustainable living, these

areas of society and hit a new height when luxe

notions became lost through oppressive systems

powerhouses like Chanel and Dior sent models

of power. People of color are slowly returning to

strutting down the runway in kicks during Fashion

their roots of understanding the connectedness

Week 2014. Over the last ten years, luxury fashion

of the environment to their well-being within

houses have produced their own takes on athletic

the realm of culture and style, despite socio-

footwear, a once taboo idea. For example,

economic hurdles and racial barriers.

many black people couldn't afford dress shoes and wore sneakers to the workplace, which

Despite the mass spread of sneaker culture across

was seen as unprofessional or "ghetto." Now,

all races here in America, it’s still dominantly

corporate culture has completely embraced

influenced by hip-hop culture. So when looking

wearing sneakers as cool. The fashion landscape

at the beginning stages of sustainability within

disseminates ideas from urban culture but lacks

black and brown communities, the first focus

creative credit to black and brown communities

is on cultural sustainability — even before

while overtly profiting through appropriation.

environmental. Environmental health should be

Oftentimes, hip-hop and sneaker culture are used

first on the self-sustaining agenda, but cultural

to manipulate consumers, perpetuating a culture-

sustainability takes precedence because these are

consuming complex. Black Americans, especially

people who have been stripped of their culture

and most notably for those who grew up in the

through the abuse of appropriation. Looking at

80s, understand and appreciate the significance

fashion and its impact on the culture’s ability

of sneaker culture. It’s more than just a shoe, a

to sustain itself and heal from within are radical

trend on the runway, or a cool urban-meets-

forms of sustainability within sneaker urbanity.

corporate collaboration. It represents a history

Take Kendrick Lamar’s work with Reebok. His

of multi-dimensional struggle and triumph and

“Red and Blue” collab featured classic Reeboks

triggers nostalgic emotions within communities

with red detail (representing Bloods) on one

of color. DJ Vashtie Kola, the first woman to design

shoe and blue (representing Crips) on the other,

a Jordan, explains, “I was a girl that grew up in

symbolizing the existing divide between gangs

sneaker culture. I grew up dirt poor not being

to emphasize Kendrick’s message of a call for

able to afford a name brand anything. I think for

neutrality. As a well-known “conscious” rapper

59

and social activist, he used this collaboration to

to manifest in a powerful movement that speaks

tackle minority-killing issues largely overlooked

to the visible and invisible ideals of sustainable

in the industry instead of just being the face of

style. South African rap legend, actor, writer and

the brand. Many ethical advocates wouldn’t

producer Riky Rick is encouraging sneakerheads

call this sustainability, but it’s sustaining culture

to keep the culture sustainable by “getting on

and pushing for peace within gangs that were

the other side of production.” Similarly, there

intentionally spearheaded by the government to

are several black entrepreneurs like Javaris

keep poor urban communities of color struggling.

Neely of Tiki Clothing who have created their own sneaker. Creative designer Virgil Abloh

There are several sustainability efforts within

partnered with Chicago CRED (Creating Real

sneaker culture, but perhaps the least obvious

Economic Destiny) to help uplift and improve

one is with regards to Jordans. When you take the

opportunities for young black, at-risk men in the

most globally recognizable sneaker — the Nike

city. The program explores street style, sneaker

Jordan — there are many ways to contextualize

culture branding, and fashion communication to help the most disadvantaged youth.

its sustainability or lack thereof. Michael

Andre

Jordan was and still is a cultural

of

to the homeless, pushing

anytime soon. Air Jordans the

founder

Sole, collects,

refurbishes, and gives shoes

shoes aren’t going anywhere changed

McDonnell,

It’s From The

icon for black kids, and his

an

landscape

agenda

focused

of style, and his success

on

eliminating

created hope. One of

waste

the main pillars of fast

This most definitely is

fashion is creating a

sustainability!

and

both

poverty.

culture of disposability — Jordan’s doesn’t Instead, become

fan

have

base

CONSCIOUS KICKS IN

that.

THE MIX

sneakerheads collectors

and

With the rise of fast

pass shoes on to their kids. Additionally,

many

fashion comes a greater

young

understanding

entrepreneurs are learning how

of

its

detriments, and sneakers are

to resell and create businesses

certainly in the mix. Corporations

refurbishing and upcycling Jordans, the

aren’t the most genuine social change

one shoe that you will rarely see in a landfill. A

agents, but through authentic collaborations,

few years ago, Complex featured 17-year-old

noise is being made. Parley for the Oceans, an

sneaker restorer Jose Armando Bustamante and

organization which takes plastic from the ocean

his small business turning trash into treasure.

and transforms it into soft materials for shoes,

Reselling classic sneakers is a huge underground

has worked with both corporate partners –

entrepreneurial market for communities who

Adidas – and with hip hop moguls, like Pharrell

don’t have traditional access to capital. The

Williams. Puma made a suede sneaker using 100%

systems

and

recyclable material, and Gucci made a collection

collecting is culturally satisfying. So in a bizarre

from bioplastic, an alternative to petrochemicals.

twist (despite not having initial sustainability)

Several independent sustainable sneaker brands

Jordans can teach the framework of cradle to

are emerging in the marketplace, such as Etiko,

cradle.

Matt + Nat, Native Shoes, and Movmt — but Veja is

of

buying,

selling,

restoring,

most notably the coolest. These ecological kicks Sneaker culture has some of the biggest

focus on fair trade sourcing, organic materials,

influences in fashion, and it’s going to continue

and transparency. And although this French

Continued on pg 95

60

Ask Gaia She’s the punky goddess girlfriend you can confide in. Wondering how to travel more

eco-friendly?

Having

trouble

finding a vegan Tinder date? Palm oil free shampoo? From composting to carbon offsets, Gaia has the answer. Confess your eco-centric woes and let her work her immortal magic for you.

fermentation and palm oil) as a preservative. Hi Gaia! I’m having trouble finding DHA

DHA, in particular, seems to be made with oleic

supplements that don’t have palm oil.

acid for Omega 9. These derivatives may or may

Do you have any suggestions?

not be made from palm oil; unfortunately, it falls to you, sweet earthling, to ask the brand. Politely

— Perplexed in Pennsylvania

email them through their contact form and ask, “Can you please tell me what plant [ingredient] is derived from?” If you don’t get an answer there, you might try reaching out over social media

Dear Perplexed,

channels, especially if they have a responsive account manager.

Good eye, sweet earthling! It is quite difficult to

In the areas of health and

find palm oil free supplements, and there are a

medicine, if you search

lot of sneaky ingredients in the mix. I would never

and don’t find a palm-

suggest you not tend to your health because of

free

palm oil, but it’s a good practice to search for palm-free options if you can. Fingers crossed

consumer, you can

is good for your heart, brain, and eyes — instead

only do so much

of the conventional fish oils, supplements made

to curb palm oil

from algae are a vegan and environmentally-

When shopping for supplements, always search for ones labeled “vegan,” as many capsules are made with gelatin. In gel capsules, watch out

please

up about it. As a

you are looking for a vegan version, too ;) DHA

friendly alternative.

option,

don’t beat yourself

demand; as a human, you have to prioritize your health, too. Otherwise, you won’t have the strength to be the kick ass environmentalist you are! I see you all out there doin’ the best you can, and I love you for it.

for glycerin, which may be derived from palm. For liquid supplements, you might find ascorbyl palmitate (generally made from corn dextrose

Gaiaspeed to you!

61

Imagine if people stopped using products

tropical rainforests. West Africa, South America,

with palm oil. What would happen to the

and Southeast Asia all cultivate oil palms; 85%

industry there? Like if they didn’t harvest

of the world’s supply is produced and exported

palm oil what would that land be used for?

from Indonesia and Malaysia. As a consumable,

The government would not turn it into a

palm oil is widely used for domestic cooking in

sanctuary; they would probably harvest

places where it is traditionally cultivated, like

another crop and do as much damage.

in Southeast Asia and Africa, as well as in China and India, which account for more than a third of global palm oil imports. After the United States

— Unconvinced in the US

snacked its way through a fear of fats in the 1980s which led to the use of hydrogenated oils, they moved back to using the “tropical” fats of Dear Unconvinced,

coconut and palm when they decided trans fats were worse.5

Your suspicions around land use are wellfounded, dear earthling. But being Gaia and all,

Food conglomerates like Cargill, Nestle, Kraft,

I’m painfully aware that natural resources are

and PepsiCo increase global demand in their

not a zero sum game. In the case of agriculture,

search to replace high trans fat content oils as

there are greedy crops that use more nutrients,

cheaply as possible. As a result, more than half the

water, carbon, and other inputs to a greater

products on sale in your supermarkets are made

degree than others. Conversely, more beneficial

with palm oil! I get it. Its special combination of

crops and sustainable cultivation can result in

fatty acids make it the ideal ingredient for the

cumulative benefits like carbon sequestration

processed foods you love so much. Your cakes

and the return of nutrients to depleted soil. You

and ice creams and gross margarines need the

see, palm oil, derived from the pulp of the fruit of

stuff to be shelf stable (I’ll get to this later). To a

oil palms, is not the problem so much as the way

lesser degree, palm oil is used in other consumer

it is cultivated and commodified. You are correct

products such as soap, candles, and cosmetics.

in that if the land was simply used for another

An even smaller amount is used as biodiesel,

commodity crop in the same destructive manner,

though this is a growing share of the (shelf-

the problem would not improve. Therefore, this

stable) pie. Long story short, because of its price

advice (while specific to the regions growing

and characteristics, palm oil has crept into an

oil palms) can be extrapolated to commodified

incredible number of products. Bringing demand

agriculture everywhere. The incredible demand

down to a sustainable level will require the

for palm oil did not sprout out of absolutely

conscious work of governments, communities,

nowhere, so let’s look at some of the forces

corporations, and consumers.

behind this billion dollar industry.

The Problems Why It’s So Heavily Used

The commodification of palm oil helped drive its global demand. Profits for the industry likely

Like yoga retreats and

peaked in 2011 and it now faces oversupply and

Eat, Pray, Love quests,

weakening demand. This is bad news for the palm

palm oil exists only

oil plantations, especially the smaller stakeholder

within

farms that invested startup money upfront

10

degrees of

for a later payoff. Meanwhile, the Malaysian

the equator. These

government is devising new ways to profit off

same regions also

of palm oil even though cultivation already takes

north

or

south

happen to contain our most biodiverse

5 http://www.palmoilworld.org/PDFs/Nutrition/ Palm oil-and-health-McNamara.pdf

up 77% of agricultural land or about 15% of total

NGO, says, “If palm is planned and implemented

land area there. The problem is that the promise

very well then it has the potential to provide jobs

of high profits came at the expense of domestic

and economic development — but if planning

food production as farms moved away from

and implementation is poor, it has the potential

subsistence crops that could feed the Malaysian

to create deforestation, loss of habitat and loss

people to commercial crops like palm oil grown

of livelihood in local communities.”7 The United

for export. This makes no sense — especially since

Nations Food and Agriculture program actually

the main beneficiaries are the owners of palm oil

encourages small farmers in Africa to grow oil

companies and the couple dozen investors that

palms because of the opportunities it offers

control 80% of the invested funds.6

them. Production is largely sustainable in the network of smallholder farms there.8 Keeping

Those who are not in the privileged class

the community involved and giving them agency

(the communities that gave up their lands for

over their production will go a long way to avoid

promised

potential conflicts.

profits,

indigenous

peoples,

and

subsistence farmers) become vulnerable to market changes, yet no longer possess the land

Farming Solutions

that once sustained them in tough times. In Indonesia, the situation is slightly better, with

With the help of advanced practices and research,

smallholder farmers making up one-third of the

countries could learn from the depleting and

producers. However, since 2011, Indonesia has

environmentally harmful practices of the past that

spent more on importing food than it earns from

decimated America’s tallgrass prairie and Brazil’s

exporting crude palm oil. If the bottom falls out of

rainforests. The palm oil industry could fastrack

the market, those with the most to lose will find

better practices and sustainable development,

themselves between two fires.

saving people and resources from exploitation in the name of profit. Tbh, I don’t blame these

As

you

probably

already

know,

zealous

countries for following the globalist capitalist

expansion of oil palm plantations has come with

agenda and pillaging the natural resource they

environmental and community destruction. I can

have to export — that’s what is evangelized

see from history (and terrible smog days in China)

by your corporate markets after all. Meanwhile,

that disregarding the environment will come back

government-sanctioned organizations like the

to bite you, but man, your human memories are

Indonesian Sustainable Palm Oil (ISPO) and

short! In addition, damage done to community

Malaysian Sustainable Palm Oil (MSPO) seem to

lands can affect livelihoods now but will also do

be workarounds for the more comprehensive

so as climate change worsens. Indonesia is the

(but still lacking) Roundtable on Sustainable Palm

world’s fourth largest emitter of greenhouse

Oil (RSPO), a non-profit which verifies supplies

gases, almost 80% of which originates from

as Certified Sustainable Palm Oil (CSPO). Rather

deforestation and burning of peatland for logging

than straight up cutting off palm oil profits in the

and palm oil — commercial crops, remember.

name of environmentalism, developed economies should financially incentivize better practices.

West Africa, another producer of palm oil and next on the chopping block for corporate

Continued on pg 95

exploitation, is attempting to avoid some of the mistakes Southeast Asia has made. Abraham Baffoe, Africa regional director at Proforest, an environmental rights and responsible sourcing

6 http://rightsandresources.org/en/publication/ view/industrial-oil-palm-development-liberias-path-to-sustained-economic-development-and-shared-prosperity-lessons-from-the-east/

7 https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2016/dec/07/palm oil-africa-deforestation-climate-change-land-rights-private-sector-liberia-cameroon 8 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Social_and_environmental_impact_of_palm_oil

Slowkiss are a rad punk band from Chile whose front women Vicky and Elisa strive to be palm oil free (just like us!). They dished (pun intended, sorry) about the best food they ate while finishing up their US tour in Texas and California earlier this year and — bonus — their favorite place back home in Santiago.

Austin was the first place we saw a fully vegan food truck that wasn’t super expensive while

I’m the picky one of the band, and it’s really almost

out on the road – in Santa Monica, we did see

impossible to make me happy at eating time —

one on the pier, but it didn’t look nearly as

I’ve been vegetarian for more than 15 years, so

delicious as this one. These guys had some

I’m really sure about what I like and don’t like. So

super great burgers we tried the first time

for the guys in the band I must be a little pain in

we got there, when we met the super sweet

the ass whose never gonna be happy eating just

girls from Selva Beat, but what I enjoyed the

whatever shitty food that’s convenient. But in this

most was grabbing some mac ‘n’ cheese right

way, I’m very glad to have a partner like Vicky in

after we left the Mohawk. That morning, our

the band, that some time ago became vegan

drummer, Matias, found out there was going to

after a lot of years eating vegetarian. So we cook

be a surprise At the Drive-In show for House of

together and almost every time, our meals are

Vans at the Mohawk. They are one of our all-time

much more delicious than in any restaurant — I

favorite bands, and we’ve all listened to them

mean, this isn’t something that I say about myself,

since we were teens, so we got super excited to

but ask anybody, haha… In the end, if you ask me,

go! The line was so crazy that we had to wait to

cooking for yourself is always gonna be the best

get in for almost three hours outside the venue,

option on the road. Go to the local grocery store

but we finally got in and the show was amazing.

and buy products from the local, organic, animal-

After the show I was so tired and so happy and

friendly farms. Buy vegetables that are in season

so hungry, I couldn’t wait to pop over to Arlo’s

and let your creativity fly in the kitchen. This

and get some wonderful mac ‘n’ cheese. That

particular day we made a delicious and natural

day was one of the greatest we spent in Austin.

tomato and vegetable sauce with spaghetti.

64

I think this was probably one of my favorite non-

Almost everybody loves pizza, but for real pizza

gig-related evenings on tour. Since Elisa moved

lovers, we really know the difference between a

to LA, she told me about Veggie Grill, she said

real, incredible pizza or just a pizza…. You know what

that I was going to love it, and the best thing

I mean… So this place is for real pizza lovers. You

was that it was beside Amoeba — I love record

can have whatever you want — it’s gonna be your

stores and yummy food so much, so we couldn’t go wrong. So our first stop was Amoeba where I got a few CDs (last week of tour, no money or space for vinyl): Pavement, Cocteau Twins, Nick

dream pizza. I know there must be a lot of people like me that are difficult to please, and this will be the place where everybody is gonna eat exactly what they want. It’s like a big buffet — you start by choosing your crust, then the sauce (they have this

Cave and the Bad Seeds, Elliott Smith, Blonde

really nice, organic tomato sauce, mmm!), and then

Redhead, Dinosaur Jr and Smashing Pumpkins!

you pile on cheeses and veggies. The best thing is

Amoeba was amazing — the guy on the register

that you can find a lot of these restaurants around

was really nice and gave us some cool stickers.

the city, so if you get lucky like us, you can do a

So we cross the street to go to Veggie Grill, and

nice line-check at one of the bars in downtown LA,

I am stunned by the amount of vegan versions

like 5 Stars Bar, then go and grab a perfect pizza.

of piggie food that you can get here, they had it all, and the best is that they love sustainable food. As I don’t know if we’ll be able to come back I just followed my BFF’s recommendation, and I went for the VG Beyond Burger, and my boyfriend José Tomás (who’s part of Slowkiss’s staff <3) ordered a Santa Fe Crispy Chikin’. When we finally tried our food, it was amazing! The VG burger tasted so much like an actual burger it was kinda weird, but it was great, and the chikin’ one was superb — actually I liked that one the most, I’ll remember that the next time I’m in LA.

Veggie Panda Pizza is owned by our friend Juampy — he plays in a hxc band called Forsaken here in Santiago. This place is awesome, because you can play here and then get great vegan pizzas or burgers with fries and grab a beer with your friends after the gig. It’s a great space to share with everyone,

One of the best places we

and he’s super sweet. We stopped by

have eaten has been Krish-

and he was waiting for us with some

na Temples — no matter

delicious lunch he made himself —

where you go you will find

rice with salad, hummus, and fried

them with nice vegetarian

empanadas — and I assure you, he

food and cool vibes. Some of

makes the best hummus I have ever

them are going to be a little

eaten. We played one of the last shows

fancier than others, but we

of the tour here, we met new people,

always have good feelings about this food, and they

shared with bands we like, like ANMLS

are always trying to talk to people about eating con-

and Forsaken, and did the thing we like

sciously and respecting and loving nature and animals.

the most as a band — that’s sharing our friendship and partying together.

65

When Activism Equals Death Written by Rachel Lees with illustrations by Luchia Langley.

In the middle of the night on the second of March

presence of US military on Lenca land. What

2016, gunmen tore into the house where Berta

saw many members of COPINH deeply suffer

Cáceres was staying in Honduras, shooting and

however, and even lose their lives, was their

killing her.

concerted opposition to the attempt of private companies, namely “DESA” — a Honduran

Berta was an internationally known environmental

company, in developing hydroelectric dams

activist who fought to protect the rights of

across the country. Contracts were awarded to

indigenous people. Her people. The year before

said private companies by the Honduran congress

her death, Berta had even been awarded the

and without consult of the indigenous who lived

prestigious Goldman Environmental Prize — an

on the land where they would build — a breach

award that recognizes grassroots environmental

of international law. Four of the proposed dams

activism around the world.

Berta and the group opposed were known collectively as the Agua Zarca Dam and were

Let me tell you her story.

to sit along the Gualcarque river in the territory inhabited by her people, the Lenca. This scale of

Berta was brought up in territory belonging to the

the build would undoubtedly impact their access

indigenous Lenca people in Western Honduras

to water, food and medicinal plants and, in doing

in the 1980s when violence was widespread

so, irrevocably impact their indigenous way of

in neighboring El Salvador. Her mother was a

life. As Lenca activist Maria Santos Dominguez

midwife and social activist who willingly took in

says, “We were born here. It is our land and our

the refugees that fled into Honduras as a result of

river... If we lost the river, we’d die. We need its

the violence, instilling in Berta at an early age a

water to bathe, for fish, for water, for our crops

deep sense of justice and humanity.

and animals.”

It was this grounding that led Berta as a student

As soon as the Lenca got wind of what was

to found a group named the Council of Popular

happening to their land by DESA and others

and

Honduras

they, led by Berta and COPINH, began opposing

(COPINH). Its mission? To stand up for the

the efforts of the companies with formal votes,

rights of the indigenous in Honduras — from

community meetings and organized rallies.

LGBT and women’s rights, to protesting against

They even took the case to the Inter-American

illegal logging, unwelcome plantations, and the

Commission on Human Rights. When these

Indigenous

Organisations

of

67

attempts

were

ignored

they

transitioned

At the time of her death, the Honduran government

and

was required to protect her. Yet on that fateful

demonstrations. It was at this point that violence

day her protection had gone AWOL; a fact the

swept into their efforts and in 2013 Honduran

Honduran government proclaims was down to

military open fired on protesters.

Berta not being at the place she had identified

to

protesting

with

road

blockades

as her home. Berta’s colleague, who was nearby This violent crackdown by the state and the

at the time of the shooting and who himself

unrelenting efforts of the opposition led to the

survived two bullets, explained that the crime

main backers of DESA, the Chinese engineering

scene was tampered with, affecting the evidence

company Sinohydro and an arm of the World

that could be gathered for the investigation

Bank, to withdraw their support. A success of

into her death. More recently the UK’s Guardian

sorts by Berta and her organization but one not

newspaper shared the words of a legal source

without the ultimate cost — three of Berta’s

close to the investigation who said: “The murder

colleagues were violently murdered for their big-

of Berta Cáceres has all the characteristics of a

business busting attempts and Berta went into

well-planned operation designed by military

hiding soon after.

intelligence, where it is absolutely normal to contract civilians as assassins.” What’s more

That year (2013) Berta told Al Jazeera, “The army

shocking about the death of Berta is that hers

has an assassination list of 18 wanted human

isn’t a story that exists in isolation. A report

rights fighters with my name at the top. I want to

produced by Global Witness in 2016 details 2015

live, there are many things I still want to do in this

as the deadliest year on record for environmental

world but I have never once considered giving

defenders globally. More than three were killed

up fighting for our territory, for a life with dignity,

every week in 2015 as they bravely defended

because our fight is legitimate. I take lots of care

their forests, land, and rivers from big-business.

but in the end, in this country where there is total impunity I am vulnerable... When they want to kill

Bill Kayong was another comrade and activist who

me, they will do it.”

died for the efforts he made to protect his people’s land — the day after that report by Global Witness

Berta was deeply aware of the risk she was

was produced. In his home of the Malaysian

making in standing up for her rights in a country

Borneo’s Sarawak state, Bill worked hard to

that has been deemed the most dangerous in the

protect the indigenous communities of Sarawak,

world for environmental activists. Threats against

known as Dayak, from the moves made by logging

her and COPINH were continuous and increasing

and palm oil companies on their traditional lands.

in severity — even her children received threats.

This work centered on one community in

Ultimately, these threats turned to action, and

particular — a traditional longhouse 60km south

Berta’s life was brought to a violent end the night

of Miri in Sungai Bekelit. In this region, longhouses

before a meeting to discuss alternatives to the

are up to 100m in length and are made up of

hydroelectric dam. Her death is one considered

many apartments focused around a communal

not only a deep loss to her beloved Lenca and

area. More than that, they are social units with

comrades

fought

a chief and communal lands whose history can

determinedly for the rights of her community

be accounted for over centuries and under

and set a model for indigenous groups across

customary law.

but

internationally.

Berta

the world pursuing justice against the impacts of profit hungry big-business. Berta’s death is

This community had been fighting the takeover of

more than that, too. It’s a loss that is shrouded in

their land to grow palm oil by Malaysian palm oil

a murkiness that is increasingly characteristic of

company Tung Huat; a big-business mission that,

the murders of environmental defenders.

as commonly found in these stories, was state

68

supported. Bill helped the plight of communities

— and it’s a world away from the democratic

in Sarawak by conducting paralegal activities to

version of activism we know here at home.

raise awareness within these communities of their

Worse than that, these are stories that aren’t

rights against big-business seizing their land for

going away. As long as there is demand for cheap

palm oil or logging activities. He assisted them in

resources from our growing global population,

filing court cases and in mobilizing protests and

regions with abundant natural resources are set

blockades.

to suffer at the hand of greedy governments and big-business. Global Witness made this clear in

Adrian Lasimbang is a Malaysian activist who

writing that “the environment is emerging as

told news outlet Mongabay that Bill, “was always

a new battleground for human rights.” As the

on the frontline, making him and maybe other

global demand for products like timber and palm

activists a target of companies that employ thugs

oil continue to rise, big-business continue to

or gangsters to intimidate the communities and

exploit land with no regard for the people that

activists alike.”That analysis couldn’t have been

have lived there for centuries. “Communities that

more true: Bill was shot and killed on his way to

take a stand are finding themselves in the firing

work while waiting at traffic lights in Miri on the

line of companies’ private security, state forces

21st of June 2016.

and a thriving market for contract killers.”

Sadly Sarawak has been described as a place

Which is exactly why we need to tell the stories

that is “plagued by corruption, human rights

of these defenders, their people and the lands

violations

communities

they are fighting for. So we can make choices that

and environmental destruction.” All the while,

leave better footprints than that of the businesses

longhouse communities like Sungai Bekelit and

acting with profit over people in mind.

against

indigenous

defenders like Bill are seen as the last hope for the region’s forests which are being destroyed at

Friend of Berta, Jesuit priest and activist, Melo,

an ever increasing rate to be replaced by palm

told journalists of Berta, “She had a special way of

oil plantations.

making us uncomfortable... She wouldn’t leave us in peace until we were all part of the fight.” As we

These stories are hard. We get it. Innocent

take in these stories and realize our part in them,

people are being violently murdered for simply

may we too be uncomfortable. May we not know

trying to protect what they love — their rights

peace until we are all part of the fight.

69

Orchard Grocer Offers Compassionate Convenience in NYC Interview conducted by Magdalena Antuña with photography by Miachel Breton. Introduction by Brianna Carney and Magdalena Antuña. In 2001, sisters Erica and Sara Kubersky opened Moo Shoes, a cruelty-free footwear store that boasts bags, t-shirts, wallets, and books on the Lower East Side in NYC. Sixteen years later, along with Joya Carlton, they opened a deli and grocery store, joining that pantheon of Manhattan’s long-standing Jewish culture. While everything in Orchard Grocer is vegan and palm oil free, they hit all the right notes of an authentic deli — they’ve got the letter board menu, subway tiles on the walls, a display case full of cheese, and a down-to-earth vibe with no pretentiousness to be found. Their authenticity transcends the aesthetic — they truly care about the products they make and sell: sourcing locally, vetting those vegan and palm oil free foods, and even making their own vegan butter in-house. We spoke with Erica about the inspiration of and processes behind Orchard Grocer, as well as how her Jewish cultural identity intersects with her vegan one.

71

I totally understand it from a business side, so if you already stock items that have [palm oil], sell what you have. But, I think as far as cooking, we’re finding it very, very simple. Olive oils and coconut oils are just doing the same things for us that palm oil would have done. I imagine that it’s very hard for some bakers who have established recipes.

Why a grocery store and deli? As long-time vegans, food has always been something we have been pretty into. And also, as a vegan shoe store, probably the question that we get most often — after what were your shoes made out of — is what should I go eat? And there really weren’t any exclusively vegan restaurants right in our neighborhood, so we thought, let’s just bring this a little closer to home. My sister and I, who I have the store with, were born and raised in New York so the the idea of a little homage to old New York and deli was what felt most right to us.

My advice is just to keep trying and [ask] people who they source their ingredients from, tell them about your concerns, and maybe they’ll start eliminating palm oil from the products that they use. I think the more we get our voice heard[,the better].

From day one, you’ve been an ecoconscious business. What about the palm oil problem did you find most compelling? It just seemed like the environmental destruction it was causing was just more than I could really bear. I’m vegan for ethical reasons — and for environmental reasons — so even though palm oil isn’t technically made out of an animal, it’s still affecting the environment, and it’s affecting many non-human animals. I thought to myself, if this is why I’m vegan, this is probably the same reason why I should be avoiding palm oil.

What has the customer response been? We definitely have people who were thinking along the same lines as [us]. And they’re just happy that they can go into a store and not read a million labels; that we had done the research for them. I still mess up because it’s just in so many things. Learning all the different terms [companies] use for palm oil, and all the things that they sneak it in, has been really eye opening for me. It’s like the way I look at veganism: I’ve been vegan now for 20 years, and I definitely went through some periods where I was super hard on myself about everything. But then I realized that, at some point, I’m just going to do the best that I can, and if I mess up every once in awhile, that doesn’t mean I’m not still trying – and that’s okay, too.

I walk into the deli for the first time, what should I get? You can’t go wrong with our Edith, which is named after our very first cat that we ever had at Moo Shoes. It’s a bagel (which you can get glutenfree) with our own house-made cashew cream cheese and carrot lox that we also make in-house. That’s a real introduction. Then of course [while] sandwiches are being made, definitely browse the shelves. I think we have a pretty great pantry section and cheese refrigerator. Just watching

What is your main advice for businesses who want to be palm oil free but didn’t have the opportunity to start fresh like Orchard Grocer?

72

how much it’s grown over the years — now I’m like, I have choices? This is insane. [laughs]

What is it like being vegan in New York? I’m from Queens, originally. I went vegetarian as a kid, and I remember my parents trying to find restaurants to take me to. That was like 28 years ago; there weren’t that many places to choose from. Now I dream about brown rice and tofu, but at the time, I wanted something a little more fun. So, it’s just amazing to see all the different restaurants that have come up. We have a vegan version of everything.

Tell me about your experience with the intersection of Jewish culture and veganism. I grew up in not a very religious family but a very culturally Jewish family. One of our big trips was, once a month, we would all visit the Lower East Side, where my maternal grandmother was born. But it was also where we went to set up for the holidays. It’s where we did all of our food shopping. I still remember the horrors of my mom getting gefilte fish and just being so horrified by the whole thing. [laughs]

And then when I started going in [this] direction — first vegetarian, then vegan… I mean, I was very lucky that my family was very supportive of it. I think they couldn’t argue with the facts, and they understood why I was doing it. One of the things that did upset my mom and my grandmother was that they thought I wasn’t going to be able to participate in our holidays. But then they quickly — hats off to them, because as a kid I hadn’t spent much time in the kitchen — they really went out of their way for me, and they found alternatives to everything that we were eating. One holiday, there was nothing [vegan], and the next holiday, there was seitan brisket and chopped liver made out of string beans. As the years went on they were like, okay, half the dinner is vegan. Then, all of a sudden, now our holidays are all 100% vegan. My brother [is] probably the only one who isn’t that excited about it. [laughs] And the last thing that was the hardest [was] Yom Kippur — which is when you have to break the fast — which is one of my mom’s favorite holidays to host. So, for her it was always lox that was the big thing that she really didn’t want to give up, and now we’re supplying the carrot lox. Now she’s like, okay, you’ve given me everything I need.

Continued on pg 96

73

An Eco-Friendly Guide to Berlin Written by Dara Kleyer. Illustrated by Elizabeth Stilwell. Even after enduring two world wars and

Loveco

thirty years of division, Berlin has managed

If sustainable and organic is not

to emerge as one of the most progressive

enough for you, Loveco is your

cities in Europe. Modern architecture sits

place to go. Everything that they

right next to ancient buildings; the city hosts

sell is 100% vegan. Great design

a thriving international underground art

meets

and music scene; and this place can truly

Here you can find anything from

be a paradise for the conscious traveler

stylish sunglasses to cute dresses

who strives for an eco-conscious lifestyle.

and dreamy smelling soy candles.

environmental

lifestyle.

Club der Visionäre Berlin is known to be Europe’s techno heaven. But besides that the locations are what makes the nights out so special. A club in a tree house, a club in an old bathroom, a club literally underground. Club der Visionäre (Club of the visionaries) is only one of them but especially fun in summer. Who doesn't want to chill on a motorboat or float while dancing and drinking beer? Come here on Sundays for their most famous afternoon parties.

Twinpigs

The Juicery

Berlin is Berlin. And it is

This shop makes such pretty

very hard to find a non-

smoothies you might be too

smoking bar here. Luckily

sad to drink them. Even as

there’s Twin Pigs — one

an #instafood hater, they will

of the rare exceptions.

make you take a picture. Trust

Here you can enjoy great

us.

craft beer or gin and tonics

—

without

coming

home

smelling like an ashtray.

74

And their

most

importantly

unexpected

flavors

are so delicious that you will want to drink them all day.

Brammibal’s Donuts Chocolate coconut,

blueberry

toasted pistachio,

salted caramel or pumpkin cream cheese — Brammibal’s has the yummiest and prettiest donuts in Berlin. The best thing? They are all vegan. Come here on Tuesdays, Fridays or Saturdays for a post-donut walk along the riverside to the Turkish market.

The Visit Over the past two years, Berlin has reached peak coffee culture. Shops have turned into laboratories — no joke. From roasting to filtering to

Gallery Weekend

making your own distilled water — Berliners are very serious about

Berlin is one of the most artistic cities

their cup of coffee. Even the

in Europe, hosting numerous art shows

average coffee drinker in Berlin can

every day. However, one of the best shows

differentiate between Ethiopian

is the gallery weekend. Once a year you

and

can visit every gallery in Berlin for free.

by their smells. The Visit is only

It’s not only a good way to look at works

one of many zany coffeelabs

by the best upcoming artists from all

in the city. But what sets this

over the world but also to see the whole

place apart are the very yummy

city while walking from gallery to gallery.

vegan snacks on their menu.

Guatemalan

coffees

just

Würgeengel Würgeengel (El angel exterminador) is a bar for passionate time travellers. Only a few bartenders still manage to make real old-fashioned cocktails, and Würgeengel's mixologists are definitely part of that rare group. The drinks – from the dirty martini to the stirred Lagavulin – are strong but good.

75

Daluma If you are on the hunt for a unique souvenir, want to look around galleries, or have a walk alongside parts of the Berlin wall, go to Mitte. This city hotspot offers something for everybody to do.

Hotel Oderberger

And when you are tired from

Berlin cannot offer you an ocean,

walking around, pop into Daluma

but it can still offer you some very

for a healthy snack, breakfast, or

special places to swim. Apart from its

lunch. Whether you want a yummy

gorgeous lakes, there are some really

smoothie, salad, or beautiful acai

awesome indoor swimming pools

bowl, this place is your ish. Take

that will surely take your breath away.

a seat on the window benches

At Hotel Oderberger, turn around

or outside on the wooden stairs,

and swim on your back to enjoy the

and do some people watching

unique view of the gothic ceiling.

(you will spot many quirky outfits).

The Bowl Over the years, Berlin has risen to vegan food paradise. Not only can you find a large number of vegan or raw restaurants and cafés in every district, but they also have an entire vegan center. It has Berlin’s biggest only vegan supermarket called “veganz.” Here you can get snacks for on the go without having to check the ingredient list a hundred times over. Upstairs you will find Berlin’s most famous vegan / raw restaurant, The Bowl, with a beautiful view over the Spree.

Vegan Vocab

Eggs Eier

Cheese Käse

Honey Honig

Meat Fleisch

76

Milk Milch

Whey Yogurt Molke Joghurt

Answers on pg 94

DOGTOWN, Doggie Style USA Austin, Texas When you're on a mission to create a bangin' signature hot dog,

How do you go about naming your hot dogs?

We

The process is always different. The standard

food joints renowned

daily menu we spent a lot of time on. Some speak

helps to pick the brain of pro. asked two

it

questions

specifically to a style from different parts of

about the three building blocks of

the country. For example, “313” is a Detroit style

a balanced veggie pup: bun, dog,

coney dog, “Three Rivers” is from Pittsburgh, and

and toppings. Head on over to pg 76

Chicago is from Chicago. The rest are all over the

to see how we processed the intel.

place. “Improv” — a reference to Seinfeld (Dustin’s

for their vegan dogs

favorite show), “Jon Stewart” — a tribute to a favorite comedian living the vegan fantasy life [sic], “Walking Taco” — what the midwesterners call a Frito Pie (we

Puka Dog Koloa, Hawaii You’re known for having a variety of sweetleaning toppings — six tropical relishes (banana, mango, etc.) and Aunty Lilikoi's passion fruit mustard. What is the key to striking a balance between fruit and something as savory as a hot dog? Who said we’re balanced? What we’re doing is completely out of the box and inside the Puka. Tell us more about your Hawaiian-style buns. How do you achieve the hole that is baked in from one side — or is that a secret? ;) To achieve the hole in the center of our freshly baked buns, we gently slide them on a hot spike and toast them from the inside out. Puka dogs can be eaten vertically and on the go. After patrons stop for a bite, where should they go next? After you enjoy the Puka dog sensation, a Papalani gelato is always nice!

78

are from Ohio), and “Sweetheart” — well, it is a sweet hot dog. The weekly special’s names are whatever we come up with quickly. Tell us about your house-made cream cheese! We make just about everything on our menu inhouse. The cream cheese is a mixture of tofu, cashews, and a few other ingredients. It is a creamy, tangy cheese that pairs perfectly with chopped sweet pickles to make the “Sweetheart” dog. You’re one of the only vegan hot dog places we know of that makes all of their own dogs. The consistency is really spot on, too. What is the key to making the perfect dog? The key to making the perfect dog is getting the hot dog batter or dough to the right consistency by keeping it chill before rolling. And realizing you can cover ugly hotdogs with delicious toppings and no one is the wiser. If you could only pick one topping for a dog, what would it be? Coney sauce (chili sauce) — it’s delicious enough to stand on its own. Savory and hearty, yet doesn’t weigh you down.

This dawg is made using our favorite palm oil free, vegan meat: Michigan's Nutcase Vegan Meats.

Southwestern SelvA Dawg

Ingredients 1 Tbsp corn 1 Tbsp roasted red bell pepper

A zesty homemade dog topped with

1 tsp roasted jalapeño peppers

an unbeatable Tex-Mex duo: avocado

1 Tbsp vegan bacon, chopped

and bacon. By Paula Farmahini.

2 oz Nutcase Vegan Meats Hot Italian Sausage

Photographed by Magdalena Antuña.

2 oz Nutcase Vegan Meats Chorizo 1 avocado 1/4 cup canned full fat coconut milk 2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 tsp lime juice 1/4 tsp sea salt 1 hot dog bun

Directions 1. Prepare the avocado crema: In a blender, mix together the avocado, coconut milk, olive oil, lime juice, and salt. Blend until the consistency is smooth and set aside. 2. Prepare the sausage link: Heat the oven to 350°F. Combine the Nutcase Vegan Meats Hot Italian Sausage with the Nutcase Vegan Meats Chorizo in a bowl. Once combined, shape into a sausage link. Cook the link in the oven for 10 minutes on a non-stick baking tray. 3. Dice the red bell pepper and jalapeño peppers and combine them with the corn in a bowl. If you have a kitchen torch, you can use it to char the vegetables until blackened to taste. If you do not have a cooking torch, you can roast the vegetables in the oven for 5 minutes. 4. Bacon Time! Using a cast iron skillet or a frying pan, cook the bacon until crispy. Set aside to cool down, then dice into smaller pieces. 5) Assemble your hot dawg and top it off with the veggies, bacon, and avocado crema to taste. Enjoy! Tip: If you're looking for a bacon that is palm oil free, try Sweet Earth's Benevolent Bacon!

80

&

Veganizing three of South Korea's most popular street foods.

81

$

I had just finished a full day of shopping at the mall, over the river from our place in Yoeuido, Seoul’s largest financial district. My two Korean-born friends and I stopped at a food cart on the thirty-minute schlep home. I ordered spicy odeng, a dish I had eaten in the States many times, and we went on our way. This time, however, the spongy fish cake on a stick scorched my taste buds so badly that snot ran down my nose the whole walk home. I had to stop at a 7-Eleven and down two bottles of banana milk just to make it through, my friends cackling all the while. Before my plane touched down at Incheon International Airport, I already considered myself something of an amateur-expert in Korean food. I had eaten my way through Houston’s Korean neighborhoods, and Long Point Drive was my go-to hangout, with karaoke dominating my weekends. I thought I had seen and tasted it all, or at least most of it — a symptom of my teenage ignorance. My ego caught up with me after that day of shopping and again in Yang Yang, a northeastern coastal town that makes the best rice cakes, strangely perfect for the beach: every cart in every town was different, each one seemingly better than the last.

ch

el

82

Ri

Simply put, Korea has mastered fast food with feeling. Each dish feels thoughtful. Now back in the US and vegan, I feel wistful every time I drive by my city’s Little Korea; there are fusion restaurants and meatfree menu items aplenty, but I still haven’t found plant-based versions that hold a candle to the rich flavor of bulgogi kimbap and odeng or the creamy sweetness of banana ooyu.

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k ic st tin a n g ve gan Àsh cake o

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U Left side: bulgogi kimbap, Right side: banana milk

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83

Fish Cake (Eomuk or Odeng)

1 Tbsp roasted sesame oil 1 Tbsp light brown sugar

Ingredients

1/2 tsp black pepper

8 oz of heart of palm

1/2 tsp sesame seeds, toasted

2 garlic cloves 1/4 cup medium onion, finely chopped

Instructions

1 tsp salt

1. Place soy curls in a bowl filled with warm water,

1 tsp sugar

just enough to cover them. Soak soy curls for about

1/4 tsp ground white pepper

10 minutes, then drain.

1/2 Tbsp kelp powder

2. In a food processor, combine garlic, pear, onion,

3 cups plus 1 Tbsp sunflower oil

and ginger and process until very smooth and

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

creamy, about 1 minute.

1/4 cup potato starch (or sweet potato starch)

3. Toss drained (but still moist) soy curls in

2 Tbsp aquafaba

cornstarch. 4. Add 1/3 cup safflower oil in a wok on medium

Instructions

heat. Stir in soy curls and fry on medium heat, stirring

1. Cut heart of palm into chunks and add to food

constantly, until soy curls turn a light golden brown

processor. Add garlic, onion, salt, sugar, ground

on the sides. This should only take a minute or two.

white pepper, kelp powder, 1 Tbsp sunflower oil,

5. Pour marinade mixture over soy curls and bring

flour, starch, and aquafaba. Blend for a couple of

to a boil. Remove from heat, drain, and top with

minutes until the mixture turns into a smooth paste.

scallions and sesame seeds.

Transfer to a bowl.

6. To eat, lay a lettuce leaf open on your palm. Add

2. On a silpat OR in between two pieces of

a small lump of rice, 1 or 2 pieces of bulgogi and any

cellophane, spread a thin layer of paste into the

other garnishes on top, then dab with sauce. Wrap by

shape of a large rectangle. Freeze for 2 hours. Cut

lifting up the edges of the lettuce leaf, then twisting

into strips about 2 inches wide by 3 inches long.

them together to make a tight bundle. Eat each

3. Heat 3 cups sunflower oil in a skillet over medium

bundle in one bite, according to Korean tradition.

high heat for about 5 minutes. Lower the heat to medium (about 330-350° F or 180° C).

Banana Milk (Banana Ooyu)

4. Drop strips into hot oil. Stir the fish cakes occasionally to fry all sides evenly. Let them cook about 5 to 7 minutes over medium heat until golden brown. Take the fish cakes out and put them in a strainer over a small bowl. Pat the fish cakes with a paper towel to remove the excess oil.

Ingredients: 9.5 oz soy milk powder 4 cups plus 1 cup water 2 cups sugar 2 pureed banana 1/8 tsp turmeric

5. Serve immediately or store in the fridge up to 1 week or freezer up to 3 months.

Marinated Beef (Bulgogi) Ingredients 8 oz dried soy curls 1 garlic clove, grated 1/2 cup Korean or Bosc pear, grated 3/4 cup finely chopped onion 1 tsp finely chopped ginger 1 scallion, chopped 2 Tbsp soy sauce

Directions: For banana syrup: 1. Bring 1 cup water to a boil. 2 Dissolve sugar in boiling water, stirring constantly. Add in pureed banana. 3. Reduce heat, cover, and allow to simmer for 10 to 15 minutes. 4. Remove from heat and allow to cool completely and thicken. Bottle and store for up to 2 weeks. For milk: Add soy milk powder, 2 cups Tbsp of banana syrup, and turmeric to 4 cups water. Shake vigorously and store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

7KHVH JROGHQ À VK cakes are light DQG Á XII\ EXW sturdy to

eat

enough on

a

stick!

85

Picture this: you’re watching the sun set over a piazza in Rome, while making your way to dinner.

Cacio E Pepe by Irvianne Torremoro

You order a menu’s worth of pasta with friends, but the cacio e pepe

Ingredients:

is all yours, and they know better

1/2 lb (8 oz) rice spaghetti

than to try a bite. Cacio e pepe

2 Tbsp olive oil

literally translates to “cheese and

3 quarts water

pepper” in Italian. This simple dish

1 Tbsp vegan butter

is mind-blowingly delicious, with

S&P, to taste

just a few ingredients. Our vegan version achieves the traditional

Vegan parmesan:

cheesy flavor using nutritional

3/4 cup cashews

yeast, and the garlic and carrot

3 Tbsp nutritional yeast

add a rich depth of flavor.

1/2 tsp garlic powder Sauce: 1/2 tsp salt 1 cup tofu 1 carrot, cooked (boiled until soft) 1/2 cup nutritional yeast 2 tsp corn flour 2 cloves garlic, roasted 1/2 cup almond milk 1/2 cup pasta water Directions: 1. Bring three quarts of water to a boil. 2. Add rice spaghetti and cook for 8 minutes. 3. Drain pasta, keep the pasta water, and set aside. 4. For the vegan parmesan: Blend cashews, nutritional yeast, and garlic powder in a food processor. Set aside. 5. For the sauce: In a blender, add tofu, roasted garlic, almond milk, and pasta water (depending on the consistency you prefer, start with 1/4 cup of pasta water and add more if needed). Blend. 6. Melt butter and add olive oil to a medium pan, add pasta and sauce, mix thoroughly. Season with salt and a generous amount of black pepper. 7. Plate pasta and top with more black pepper and vegan parmesan.

86

Photography by Mika Locklear

salt, carrot, nutritional yeast, corn flour,

Girl Girl About About Town:Vegas Town:Vegas

Zia Metric is a yoga teacher, visual artist, singer, musician, open mic host, and co-founder of The Bee Tree, a small business focused on alternative healing. Here she gives us a tour of her (food) world. Interview by Irvianne Torremoro. Illustrated by Elizabeth Stilwell.

When did you decide to become vegan?

What are the challenges of living a vegan lifestyle in Las Vegas?

I decided to go vegan in 2003. This year will be Initially, I wanted to go out and eat socially, which

my 14th veganniversary.

was hard because there were only a few vegan restaurants back in the early 2000s. But I usually

Congrats! What sparked the initial change?

prepared and cooked my own food at home anyway, Initially, self-control. But, it evolved into a

so it was never really an actual challenge. Now, with

myriad of reasons including: a protest against

lots more vegan restaurants, eating out is definitely

the unethical meat and dairy industry, efforts

more accessible than ever before.

in improving the earth from an ecological standpoint, and combatting hypocrisy, i.e.

What are some of your favorite recipes to make at

people who say they love animals, yet try to

home?

justify why they only eat certain ones. I love to make everything from guacamole, to lemon chicken picatta, to yellow chicken curry, to pineapple fried rice, to cheesecake… You name it, I'll make it! Becoming vegan helped me exercise my

about ll us Zia, Te egan ave v your f egas. ts in V n a r u resta

creativity in the kitchen.

Go Vegan C

on is my VegeNati t. My st re auran favorite order to things favorite , the w o w o a are the b ken h c , taco ic east west eir th les, and and waff ! e a d n su brownie VegeWay is an awesome vegan fast food restaurant, and my favorite thing from there is the fish sandwich with their mango milkshake. Another favorite is Violette's Vegan. I love their philly cheese steak and mac and cheese.

87

afe has the best nachos and raw pizza. A t Panchos Ve gan Tacos tr y their potato taco, the as ada and al pastor tacos, and th e vegan (duh!) horchata. More favorit es include Veggie Delig ht: get their fish sandwic h or spicy chicken with avocado sandwich. Ve ggie House has amazing lem ongrass oyst er mushrooms, crispy pork , and orange chic ken.

88

Ha

lo-H

alo

81

Atchara Pickled green papaya Note: You will need cheesecloth and sterilized mason jars to pickle the vegetables.

Ingredients 4 cups green (unripened) papaya, grated

At ch ara

1 carrot, julienned 1 red bell pepper, julienned 1 (2 inch) piece ginger root, peeled and sliced thinly 1 (1.5 oz) box of raisins 1/4 cup, 1 tsp salt 1 cup white sugar 1 cup white vinegar

Sauce:

1 cup water

2 cups water 3 Tbsp soy sauce

Directions

6 cloves garlic, chopped

1. Toss the grated papaya with 1/4 cup salt in a large

1/3 cup dark brown sugar

bowl, allow to sit for one hour.

1/4 tsp salt

2. Drain the liquid from the papaya and rinse

4 Tbsp potato starch, dissolved and mixed in 1/4

thoroughly.

cup water

3. Place papaya in large piece of cheesecloth and

Rice paper, 1 package

squeeze to drain as much liquid as possible. 4. Combine papaya, carrots, red bell pepper, ginger,

Directions

and raisins in a large bowl, mix.

Filling:

5. Mix vinegar, water, sugar and 1 tsp salt in a small

1. Heat a pan over medium heat, add onions and

saucepan, bring to a boil, let boil for 5 minutes.

garlic, sauteing until soft and translucent. 2. Add the rest of the vegetables and cook until soft.

Lumpiang Sariwa

3. Season with salt and brown sugar.

Fresh spring rolls

4. Turn off heat and set aside.

Ingredients

1. Add water, soy sauce, dark brown sugar, salt,

Filling:

and potato starch slurry in a small bowl and whisk

1 yellow onion, peeled and chopped

together.

1 cup cabbage, shredded

2. Pour mixture into pan and heat on medium heat.

1 cup bean sprouts

3. Add garlic and cook for another 2-3 minutes.

3 garlic cloves, minced

4. Turn off heat and set aside.

Sauce:

1 cup chickpeas (save brine from can) 1 cup jicama, diced

Assembly:

1 cup carrots, diced

1. Place the lettuce leaf in the middle of the wrapper,

1 cup hearts of palm, julienned

place a spoonful of vegetable mixture on top.

1 cup green beans, each bean cut in half

2. Roll wrapper from one side to the other. Halfway

15-20 lettuce leaves, washed thoroughly and dried

in, fold the left and right sides of the wrapper in and

S & P, to taste

continue rolling.

3 Tbsp brown sugar

3. Repeat until all wrappers are rolled.

3Tbsp peanuts, crushed (for garnish)

4. Top rolls with sauce and crushed peanuts.

92

6. Cook sauce down, about 15-20 minutes. Adjust

Mushroom and Tofu Sisig

seasoning to taste, combine mushrooms and tofu

A popular stew

back in, and serve hot, with rice on the side.

Halo-Halo

Ingredients

Shaved ice dessert

1 lb shiitake mushrooms 1/2 Tbsp ginger, diced

Ingredients

2 cloves garlic, minced

Halo-Halo

1/2 yellow onion, diced

5-6 Tbsp Halo-halo sweet fruit mix

2 chili peppers, diced

1/4 cup coconut milk

2 cups ďŹ rm tofu, diced

1/2 cup shaved ice

2 Tbsp coconut oil

3 Tbsp toasted rice flakes/crisps

1/2 Tbsp calamansi juice

1 slice of Ube Halaya

S & P, to taste

Ube Halaya

Marinade:

1 lb frozen grated ube (purple yam), thawed

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup turbinado (brown) sugar

1/2 cup soy sauce

1 can (14.5 oz) coconut milk

1/4 cup coconut vinegar

1/4 stick vegan butter

3/4 Tbsp sugar 1/2 tsp whole peppercorn

A note about Halo-Halo sweet fruit mix: Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easier

Directions

and less expensive to buy the sweet fruit mix (usually consists of jackfruit, red beans, white

1. Combine all ingredients for the marinade. 2. Mix in mushrooms and marinate for 10 minutes. Remove mushrooms and set aside. Save marinade sauce. 3. Heat a pan on medium heat with coconut oil. Fry

beans, and coconut jelly) rather than trying to buy each of these ingredients

individually.

For the Halo-Halo 1. Add 3 Tbsp of the sweet fruit mix to a glass.

tofu on all sides until golden brown. 4. Lower heat and set aside tofu. Add more coconut

2. Add 1/2 -1 cup of shaved ice on top of the sweet fruit mix, to layer.

oil, garlic, ginger, and onion, sauteing until soft. 5. Add chili pepper, mushroom, tofu, and calamansi juice. Mix well and add more marinade sauce if the

3. Add 3 more Tbsp of sweet fruit mix. 4. Add remainder of shaved ice on top. 5. Pour the coconut milk into the glass.

sisig is dry.

6. Top with rice crisps/flakes. 7. Top with Ube Halaya.

For the Ube Halaya 1. Heat a medium-large sized pot, add butter and melt. 2. Add coconut milk and bring to a boil. 3. Add sugar, stirring well. 4. Lower the heat, add ube in, and mix well. 5. Stir occasionally, until the ube becomes thick, about 15-20 mins. 6. Put into a mold/container (preferably glass) and let cool.

Mu

s h ro o

m a n d To

is fu S

ig

7. Refrigerate for 2 hours, then serve.

93

payoff is not sufficient, farmers should return to

Continued from page 60

subsistence farming that they can sell in-country.

brand is pretty cool, it’s not representative of

But, as you reminded us, even those crops can

the culture that is all about using tools on your

cause environmental damage if not rotated and

feet for cultural expression. In the grand scheme

managed properly. Worldwide, governments

of things, sustainability is still taboo in this space

need to encourage more agroforestry (a more

and the reality is producing sustainable shoes in

diverse land use system in which trees or shrubs

volume is going to take time.

are grown among crops) and permaculture (an agricultural system modeled after natural

Despite the lack of media visibility, minority

ecosystems)

influencers

and

oil palms and their deleterious effects on the

are

building

awareness

the

connection

authentic

tastemakers

to

mitigate

monocultures

like

about

environment. Doing so will create more stable

cultural

and integrated land use for the community and

movements, education, and urban sustainability.

country — and even if supply does not reach

Urban areas are most affected by environmental

demand as a result, it will keep prices high for

detriments but are also home to the most stylish

the farmers and stakeholders. Without conscious

and influential humans. Hip-hop culture has no

planning like this, capitalist markets will drive

choice but to create the next real change toward

down the price and will expect lowered costs

sustainability, not for the masses but for the

around labor and production, leading to further

culture, which will in turn trickle down, much

exploitation of land and workers.

and

between

talking

creative

like anything else. Grassroots and mainstream

Product Solutions

hip-hop movements are creating a narrative of black and brown beauty, as well as highlighting the importance of community. These concepts,

Downstream producers can do their part by

propelled by the voice of #BlackLivesMatter,

diversifying the kinds of oils they use in their

have helped push messages of ethical production

products. Some brands attempt to use only

and consumerism. For communities of color,

RSPO certified palm oil, which could slow down

sustainable style is going to look and feel

use, but is ultimately not going to curb demand.

different, because we are fighting multiple

Completely removing palm oil from consumer

battles at once.

goods could move demand to another crop, as you mentioned dear reader, which could have its own issues. Using a variety of oils in

Continued from page 63

products would make demand more spread out and sustainable. Yield measurements vary, but

Sustainable agriculture would help emerging

palm oil does produce more oil per hectare than

markets

deforestation,

other oils (another reason to encourage higher

pollution, and carbon release — issues that will

yields). However, high startup costs and peak

affect everyone through climate change in the

production that takes years locks a farmer into

long run.

the crop for decades. On the other hand, though

avoid

damage

like

their yields are smaller, seed crops like sunflowers It is imperative to stop the burning of peatlands

and rapeseed are more flexible in that they can

and bulldozing of rainforests, but existing palm

be changed year to year, making farmers less

oil producers should be encouraged to increase

vulnerable

yields

demand could naturally incentivize growing

and

sustainably

manage

their

land.

Instead of compounding environmental issues

to

market

changes.

Diversifying

other oil crops besides palms.

or even boycotting palm oil, the most pressing issues can be ameliorated with education,

Consumer Solutions

incentives, and sustainable demand. Growing a commodity crop means more risk, so when the

Consumers like you can help by curbing demand

95

of products that use palm oil and its derivatives.

from actions that will bring everyone closer to

Let brands know that you are opposed to

those solutions. Be vocal about your objections,

reliance on palm oil and reject the exploitation,

especially in areas of legislation and corporate

deforestation, and child and forced labor that are

policies.

part of its production in Malaysia and Indonesia.9

exploitation, environmental destruction, and

A large proportion of palm oil in the US is used

unchecked commodification of all products, not

in shelf stable processed foods like soda, cakes,

just palm oil. These issues were not created by

crackers, and other snack foods. Yes, these items

one actor, so it will take everyone to nurture a

are delicious, but they are also nutritionally void,

more sustainable system.

Encourage

regulations

on

labor

so cutting down on them is beneficial for our health, as well as that of the environment. I’m

Continued from page 73

suggesting more fresh whole foods, to be sure, but also simply less processed foods like canned

I think what people don’t realize is how much

or frozen vegetables, beans, grains, nuts, and

more you end up eating because of it. Once you

other one-ingredient consumables. Combined

take meat off the table, you start filling your plate

with fresh produce into snacks and meals, these

with all these other more colorful and delicious

foods offer a more nutritionally dense diet than

and tasty things that you [wouldn’t bother] to eat

highly processed food ever could.10 And that’s

because you were just so full from that big piece

good for everyone. Personal care items and

of meat. I’m sure that I have a much more diverse

cosmetics sneak an incredible amount of palm oil

diet than any of my meat-eating friends. And you

in via glycerin, stearates, palmitates, and other

know, I feel really lucky that I get to live this life.

derivatives, which can be difficult to avoid. If you see a suspicious ingredient, ask the brand about its origin via email or social media. The more this issue is out in the open, the more we can address its effects. The use of palm oil for biofuel is increasing, especially in the European Union. Members of the European Parliament recently voted to ban biofuels made from vegetable oil in an effort to curb global deforestation.11 The issue is still being debated, but the apparent awareness around palm oil and environmental devastation is encouraging.

Conclusion Mitigating the damage done by palm oil production government,

will

require

community,

an

amalgam

corporate,

of and

consumer cooperation — not an easy task to be sure. But, you shouldn’t let that discourage you

9 https://www.dol.gov/ilab/reports/pdf/TVPRA_ Report2014.pdf 10 https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/ food/processed-foods-the-problem-probably-isnt-whats-inthem-its-whats-not-in-them/2014/04/24/93e60a4e-c3f211e3-b574-f8748871856a_story.html?utm_term=.b81229b45492 11 https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2017/apr/04/palm oil-biofuels-meps-eu-transport-deforestation-zsl-greenpeace-golden-agri-resources-oxfam

96

What is Palm Oil? An FAQ of sorts if you're unfamiliar with this topic.

What is palm oil?

Simultaneously,

The term “palm oil” refers to an edible vegetable

overworked, misled, underpaid, subject to poor

oil derived from the fruit pulp of African oil palm.

conditions, and much more.

industry

workers

are

often

It is incredibly versatile and can either be used as “vegetable oil” in food products or transformed into

Finally, it is too fiercely unregulated. Recent reports

another ingredient, called a derivative, in any other

from the EIA detail that plantation auditors are

product in your home. Palm oil crops have a very

"failing to identify and mitigate unsustainable

high yield but can only thrive ten degrees north or

practices by oil palm firms." Adding that "in some

south of the equator — an incredibly biorich stretch

instances auditors actually collude with plantation

of land.

companies to disguise violations of the RSPO Standard." Furthermore, only 20% of the world's

Why is it bad?

palm oil is "certified," mostly through disappointing

Right now, palm oil is troubling for a number of

supply chain systems (See What About The

reasons. Primarily, it incites rapid deforestation

RSPO?).

of precious, irreplaceable land. The versatility we mentioned before means that it is in high demand,

Despite efforts to control the industry, conflict

so land is cleared and farmed accordingly. What

palm oil remains a huge threat to the environment,

is "high demand"? Fifty million tons of palm oil are

wildlife, human rights, and overall health of the

produced annually to fill roughly half of the products

world.

you buy in stores. Alongside deforestation, and our endangerment. The majority of palm oil used is

I checked my [insert item] and I don't see "palm oil" written anywhere?

produced in Indonesia and Malaysia, home to

Palm oil will not always be labeled as such. In most

unique wild populations of orangutans, rhinos, sun

countries, it can pass under the term "vegetable oil."

bears, elephants, clouded leopards, and proboscis

If you're looking at toothpaste, shampoo, detergent,

monkeys, all of which are under the threat of

lotion, mascara, or any other item, then palm oil

becoming extinct as a result of the palm oil industry.

will likely take the form of a derivative like glycerin,

primary reason for starting this magazine, is animal

emulsifiers, stearates, etc. Palm oil also deeply affects the environment. When just one hectare carbon-rich peatland is cleared,

What about the RSPO?

up to 6,000 metric tons of carbon dioxide are

The Roundtable for Sustainable Palm Oil is an

released into the atmosphere. Worse still, ponds of

organization founded in 2004 with the aim to

wastewater at palm oil refineries release immense

regulate the palm oil industry and put an eventual

amounts of methane which are 34 times more

end to deforestation and wildlife endangerment.

potent than carbon dioxide. While we admit that there must be a governing Due to the industry's size and untamed growth,

body for the industry, we are deeply critical of the

indigenous

out

RSPO and what it ultimately accomplishes with

and displaced for access to farmable land.

its "sustainable palm oil supply chain" systems.

peoples

are

also

pushed

97

The RSPO does enable greenwashing vis-a-vis

Second, implement a few key changes into your

GreenPalm certificates, and we largely don't support

lifestyle:

these practices. For example, Unilever can claim to customers, via the RSPO, that they used 14,495.23

We, as a society, have grown dependent on palm oil

tons of 100% segregated, sustainable palm oil from

because we eat an incredible amount of processed

2013-2014. Great.

and packaged food. Even items we would all regard as “health food,” too! Companies must get their act

This claim is beleaguered, however, by Unilever's

together, because it's the responsible thing to do —

consumption of 1,501,578 tons of palm oil in the form

period. But that doesn't mean you should necessarily

of GreenPalm certificates, meaning that the origin of

eat those products once they have...

said palm oil is unknown and likely born of conflict. When you are told that this company uses certified

One of the main pillars of this magazine is a vegan,

sustainable palm oil in an email, however, that

plant-forward diet, centered around whole foods.

latter fact is not made clear. Moreover, reports on

It's easy, delicious, and low-impact, especially when

auditor failings, land grabs, and poor labor standards

we eat organic and locally. For everything else, like

undermine the organization's credibility.

makeup and lotion, choose palm oil free items because they're widely available in the US. It's really

Basically, the RSPO has a long, long way to go. We do

as simple as that. Oh! And read Selva Beat, of course!

hope, however, that someday we can fully rely on

$

them to regulate the industry, perhaps with the aid of the Palm Oil Innovation Group (POIG).

Should we boycott all palm oil then? This is a tricky subject. As a publication, we do not advocate for a blanket boycott of palm oil. Truly traceable and "sustainable" palm oil is the next step, whichever side of the fence you're on. Agreeing upon a singular, satisfactory definition of sustainable is an entirely different issue though. We do, however, boycott conflict palm oil in all forms and think you should, too — see Why is it Bad? section for guidelines. If it's not ethical, you really don't have to buy it.

Okay. What can I do? First, demand that the system change and become fully accountable. There are several ways you can do this — join a campaign, write an email, tweet a company. Use your voice.

98

Directory

Modern Minerals modernmineralsmakeup.com @modernminerals

Here are all of the great people and places mentioned in this issue, in case you want to check them out.

Mother Earth Beauty Bar etsy.com/shop/MotherEarthBeautyBar

BEAUTY 100% Pure 100percentpure.com @100percentpure Au Naturale aunaturalecosmetics.com @aunaturalelife Cocofloss cocofloss.com @getcocofloss Dusk Cosmetics etsy.com/shop/DuskCosmetics Earth Makeup earthmineralcosmetics.com Fenty Beauty fentybeauty.com @fentybeauty French Girl frenchgirlorganics.com @frenchgirlorganics Glossier glossier.com @glossier Greenpoint Glitter greenpointglitter.com @greenpointglitter Hanami Cosmetics hanami.com.au @hanami_cosmetics

,Available on selvabeat.com Herbivore Botanicals herbivorebotanicals.com @herbivorebotanicals Lily Lolo lilylolo.us @lilylolousacanada Meow Meow Tweet meowmeowtweet.com @meowmeowtweet Milk Makeup milkmakeup.com @milkmakeup

Plant Makeup plantmakeup.com @plantmakeup RMS rmsbeauty.com @rmsbeauty

desmet-nyc.com @desmetnyc Dolores Haze doloreshaze.com @dolores_haze_ Marteau Jewelry marteau.co @marteau.co Po-zu po-zu.com @po_zu CULTURE

Real Purity realpurity.com @real.purity Shiro Cosmetics shirocosmetics.com @shirocosmetics

Orchard Grocer orchardgrocer.com @orchardgrocer Slowkiss slowkissband.com @slowkissband

Zabana Essentials zabanaessentials.com @zabanaessentials

FOOD

FASHION

Doggie Style doggiestyleatx.com @doggiestyleatx

Bhava bhavastudio.com @bhavastudio Bliss and Mischief blissandmischief.com @blissandmischief DeSmet

Nutcase Vegan Meats nutcasevegan.com @nutcaseveganmeats Puka Dog pukadog.com

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