TRAVEL beyond the beach
Summer Travel ON
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F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N , C A L L YO U R T R AV E L AG E N T. • 1 . 8 6 6 . 5 2 7. 4 7 6 2 K ARISMAHOTEL S.COM
Yeah man, This is such an exciting time for us. We are halfway through the year in which we celebrate our tenth anniversary. What a ride it has been and how thankful we are to have you with us. Many of you have been for all ten years and some of you are just joining us on this journey of travel and exploration of the best of the Caribbean. Welcome to each one of you; welcome to the Caribbean Living way of traveling…beyond the beach.
LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER CARIBBEAN REGIONAL SALES DIRECTOR:
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www.CaribbeanLivingMagazine.com Caribbean Living Magazine (Volume 10, Issue 2; ISSN 1941-1936) Published Quarterly by Caribbean Living Magazine, Inc., 10097 Cleary Blvd, Plantation, FL 33324. ©2016 by Caribbean Living Magazine, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Publisher assumes no liability for the representations contained herein.
Caribbean Living Magazine is not responsible for the return or care of unsolicited material. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the prior written consent of Caribbean Living Magazine, Inc
In this issue, Danielle and Andrew take you to Jamaica and Barbados and share their time at a few great hotels with us. They get out and about and give us a taste of both destinations as only they can. Catch them by a waterfall, in a recording studio, or traversing the islands. Sounds like an eclectic mashup of experiences and yet they come to life harmoniously within the pages of this issue. After reading their features you’ll be inspired to visit but to make the most of the experience, delve into Ava’s Dates not to Miss section and plot your journey around some fun events in the islands. There are a plethora of events and activities spanning the summer months. You are bound to find a few that suit you. The classic regattas and races are on deck as well as music festivals and new happenings. Check out her New & Noteworthy section for the latest and greatest places to stay. Ava grabs our attention with those new resort options, but I am a lover of the classics (as well as the new kids on the block) so I take you with me to Jamaica Inn, a Jamaican classic. Having grown up in Jamaica, hearing fabulous tales of famous guests who visited the hotel, I felt so many great emotions visiting for myself after so many years. After my time in Jamaica, I head to Playacar, Mexico for a little hideaway at an adult only resort. You know I can never pass up a good adventure so I pop over to Tulum and pull over for swims in cenotes. This issue is jammed with excitement. Ava heads to Belize for an elegant eco adventure that keeps the adrenaline pumping in style. There’s something to be said about being catered to after a day canoeing through the wilds of the country or climbing nearby Mayan ruins. I told you this issue was packed with excitement. We even threw in a new luxurious beach club in the Dominican Republic. Eden Roc at Cap Cana spoils us rotten at their latest addition to the property.
Printed in the USA
Come inside and stay a while…maybe another ten years or so. Image Cover Credit: Reach Falls, Jamaica By: Andrew Innerarity
All my best,
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@caribbeanliving on Twitter
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Peta
CONTENTS 4-9
10 - 15
19 -28
29 - 38
40 - 43
44 - 53
Ǣ BOOK REVIEW Ǣ THE SPA UNCOMMON Ǣ THAT OL' DEVIL RUM
72 - 80
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82 - 94
CONTRIBUTORS ANDREW INNERARITY
AVA ROSALES
Director of Photography
Features Editor
It’s all about triggering emotion via imagery. When I convey the very essence of a situation with a single photograph, then I am complete, because the viewer understands more than the moment, they know the situation.
You can take the girl out of the island, but you can’t take the island out of the girl.
JEFF SOBEL
JORDAN SIMON
Contributor
Contributor
For me the Caribbean is a lifestyle, best enjoyed with a drink in one hand and a good book in the other.
Closing the bar down with the Lupis and co. over rhum vieux or rosé at The Hermitage. Savoring the world’s finest mango French toast at Ottley’s with a clutch of Keusches. Spa sojourning with Nature at the Four Seasons Nevis. That’s just one island nation: Vive la Caribbean!
SERGIO OLIVARES Creative Direction CREATIVE DIRECTOR I'm my best on this island. My flight left last night, but I know I'm not going back home.
CaribbeanLivingMagazine.com
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ISLAND DATES NOT TO
MISS
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This is the time of year when temperatures rise, adding to that, there are regattas, independence and emancipation festivals that are bound to sizzle, and generate their own heat. No worries though, you can always count on the sea breeze or the winds that meander down the lush and verdant green mountainside to keep things cool. Catch some shade beneath the tropical foliage or a coconut frond, and appreciate a cool slice of the fruit of the season – mango. Sip on delectable tropical concoctions or simply slip into the cool, clear waters. There’s no better time to indulge in the food and frivolity of the Caribbean than during summertime, where feeling “hot, hot, hot” is a welcome vibe.
BY AVA ROSALES
JULY
Take the opportunity to learn more than you ever wanted to know or even thought that you knew about mangoes and other deliciously succulent tropical delights. There will be crafts, activities and even a “Mango Dis Mango Dat” contest, guaranteed you’ll be able to “eat til yuh belly bust” (vernacular for eat until your stomach is full and beyond). It’s a treat and feast for the entire family in the St. George Village Botanical Garden, during the 21st Annual Mango Melee and Tropical Fruit Festival, July 9 www.sgvbg.org/event/mango-melee-and-tropical-fruit-festival-4 Barbados opens the month with their aquatic adventure for everyone – above, below or by the waters, no matter your penchant, there’s pleasure to be had swimming, diving or strolling along the shore. Explore the magnificent underwater world and learn how to protect it from above and below at Dive Fest Barbados, July 5 – 9 www.divefestbarbados.com/ Martinique puts females first as they push the pedals and cycle to the finish, during the 4th Annual Grand Prix de Féminines, July 1 – 2; then it’s the men’s turn to join in on the road for the 36th Annual Tour Cycliste International Martinique, July 8 – 16 cyclismemartinique.com Sails unfurl to catch the warm summer winds, as boats glide atop the crystal-clear waters. It’s “all aboard” for the All Andros & Berry Islands Regatta, July 7 – 10 www.bahamas.com/event/all-andros-berry-islands-regatta Around St. Thomas, in the U.S. Virgin Islands, anglers are strapping in for the big catch during the The 51st Annual July Open Tournament, July 6 – 8 www.vigfc.com In the Bahamas, back on land the authentic, cultural celebration of feast and festivities throughout the islands are the happening in July. Freeport’s celebrations are held every Thursday, beginning on July 6, and on Andros, their Goombay Summer Festival takes place July 21 – 22 www.bahamas.com/event/goombay-summer-festival-0 Further south, it’s “jump-up” time at Antigua’s Carnival, July 28 – August 8 www.antiguacarnival.com
During the week’s merriments, be sure to indulge, once again, in the fruit of the season at Antigua and Barbuda Mango Festival, July 30 – 31 Known to some as checkers, but to many as draughts (pronounced “drafts”)- this board game tournament has serious players focused on their most winning moves at the 1st International Curaçao Open Draughts Challenge. June 25 – July 2 How often can one say that they traveled to slip into an independent or feature film at a cinema in paradise? Cayman is meeting that indulgence and making its mark as a “world-class filming destination” with an array of cinematic artistry appearing on-screen during CAYFILM: Cayman International Film Festival, June 30 – July 3 www.cayfilm.com/festival-events If you have visited Barbados during the summer, then you are aware that the island celebrates an annual festival that is more than an event, it’s a season! This allows for endless festive possibilities. One of which brings out soca bands in full force to claim the title of best of the best during Soca Royale, July 30. On Brandon’s Beach, grab a spot on the white sands, and spread your towel, lay back and soak in the melodious magic of the Caribbean’s steel pan, for as the name implies, it’s Pan Pun de Sand, July 16. The revelry “winds down,” or should we say peaks, at the closing, with pageantry and parades, where it’s non-stop music and masquerade merriment at Grand Kadooment www.ncf.bb/crop-over-2016-june-25-to-august-2 Over in the U.S. Virgin Islands, the action is at sea where reels are set and cast, during the St. Thomas Virgin Islands Game Fishing Club's 51st Annual July Open Billfish Tournament, July 6 – 8 www.vigfc.com Closer to the end of the month, the entire island and folks from around the world gather beneath the skies for Jazz in the Park, July 22 This little island of Montserrat is celebrating in a grand way the little gourd that has had a big impact throughout the Caribbean and many other parts of the world. Don’t miss the Calabash Festival, July 16 – 23
Off the shores of Martinique, the colorful array of sails are picturesque across the vibrant blue sea, where sailors skilfully maneuver and race with spirited ease, during Tour de Martinique de Yoles Rondes, July 31 – August 7 www.yoles-rondes.net Across the Caribbean, in Jamaica, for 25 years, the iconic, signature sound of the island promises to be bigger and better with a list of who’s who in the reggae world, from the home grown to the international stars - Reggae Sumfest, July 16 – 23 www.reggaesumfest.com Then, hot on its heels, there’s not a minute’s rest as the island counts down to independence day. Negril hosts a week of events that draws thousands ready to imbibe adult concoctions and indulge in all things bacchanal. Contrary to its name, sleep is far from party-goers minds during Dream Weekend, July 28 – August 1 www.jamaicadreamweekend.com Things remain spicy, in a different way though, with the island’s world famous flavor – come savor culinary creations and cook-offs at the family-friendly, Mobay Jerk Festival, July 31 – August 1 www.montegobayjerkfestival.com/main/#! Over in the British Virgin Islands, boats dock around a sea of revelers. As water is waist high and knee deep, bring a float, find a friend and prepare to have fun – there may even be a Santa sighting or two at Savannah Bay, Virgen Gorda, during Xmas in July, July 28 – August 9 www.wallycastro.com At the same time, an extravagant celebration of freedom and a cultural history is occurring, with copious international and local flavor. Come listen to the folklore and become immersed in the British Virgin Islands’ rich history during Emancipation Festival, July 28 – August 9
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AUGUST
Montserrat “heads-up” the month, literally, with their infamous Cudjoe Head Festival, August 4 – 5. This event joins a month of celebrations of independence throughout many of the countries in the Caribbean. In Martinique though it’s a modern-day test of strength and stamina with mountainous maneuvers for runners at Raid Lanmenten, August 12 tchimberaid.com/evenement/raid-lanmanten Countries converge on Barbados to celebrate culture and history during Carifesta XIII – Barbados 2017, August 17 – 27 www.carifesta.net This is truly an experience that takes locals and guests beyond the beach to explore the unique qualities that define the Caribbean and its people. Grand Bahama Island is rejoicing with horns, headdress and flamboyant costumes that are symbolic of their unique celebration during Junkanoo Summer Festival, August 5 – 19 www.bahamas.com/event/junkanoo-summer-festival-grandbahama-island
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The Berry Islands in the Bahamas has good cause to celebrate the sportsmen and women who are engaging in the environmentally responsible and important endeavor to catch and relieve surrounding waters of the pesky and unwanted Lion Fish. There will be delicious seafood and celebration at the Lobster Fest & Lion Fish Derby, August 11 – 12 www.bahamas.com/event/lobster-fest-lion-fish-derby In Freeport, athletic bodies glisten as they cut through the clear waters not just for sport, but to raise funds for the worthwhile cause, the Bahamas Air Sea Rescue Association (BASRA). Don’t miss the beach party and splash at BASRA Bernie Butler Swim Race, August 19 www.bahamas.com/event/basra-bernie-butler-swim-race
SEPTEMBER
Not for the faint of heart, it’s a feast for the fittest as St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands, takes bikers, swimmers and runners through a triathlon, or a swim and run in the aquathon. In true Caribbean-style, finish line and take some “sup” at the beach that awaits the agile athletes who cross the finish line, and spectators too, at the 18th Annual Love City Triathlon, Aquathon, & SUP, September 5 – 10 www.stjohnlandsharks.com In the Bahamas, it’s smooth sailing for crews during the Eleuthera & Harbour Island Rock Sound Sailing Regatta, September 21 – 23 www.bahamas.com/event/rock-sound-sailing-regatta Then Fishermen close the month in Antigua & Barbuda to reel in the catch of the day and then feast on the delectable sea fare that makes it to the skillet or grill at the Francis Nunes Jr. Memorial Fishing Tournament & Seafood Festival, September 30 www.antiguabarbudasportsfishing.com
&
NEW
Noteworthy
It’s back to nature in Mexico and The Bahamas offers encounters of a cultural kind and also sets its sights on grand openings with their latest and upcoming super resorts.
BY AVA ROSALES
Mexico
Exotic beach bungalows nestled in a landmark known for its rich flora and fauna an eco-conscious resort is just the latest complement to the Sian Ka’an biosphere, a UNESCO World Heritage site on the Caribbean coast of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula. Head south of Tulum to find the private and exclusive KanXuk Blue Maya Resort Located on the Sian Ka’an Biosphere coastline in Quintana Roo, Mexico. The views of the crystal-clear Caribbean waters and white sands are spectacular, and just on the other side is the famous San Juan Lagoon Jungle. Both villas and bungalows offer either vista. Want to stay in? Well, there’s plenty to do there too, offering something unique for a resort in this area. Pop a snack into the in-room microwave, relax and tune into a little television, all in air-conditioned comfort while lounging in a handmade artisan furniture sourced from local wood. If staying in the premium bungalow, dine in the privacy of your own garden and spend the day by the exclusive dipping pool. All accommodations come complete with butler service, if desired. Eco-conscious travelers need not worry because the primary sources of power for this resort is solar and wind. Do drink the water here. A natural underground cistern provides fresh, filtered water. Elect an all-inclusive experience or a European bed-and-breakfast plan. The all-inclusive pampers with fine dining, a liquor selection from around the world and the piece de résistance, VIP transportation to and from Cancun airport by land, sea and even air – yes, a helicopter can be your transport upon landing, if requested. www.bluemayaresort.com
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The Bahamas
Nassau, Paradise Island has guests wondering where to begin. With an array of enticing additions and renovations, plan an extended stay in majestic style. The Grand Hyatt Baha Mar is imposing, indeed. Boasting the largest casino in the Caribbean, after a round of golf on the 18-hole Jack Nicklaus Signature Course, cool off with premier beach and pool access. Then, plan a trip back to experience the slated additions to this expanse of a property, as the 1,800 rooms will be joined by the SLS Baha Mar in fall 2017, followed by the opening of Rosewood Baha Mar in spring 2018. There’s lots for the entire family to do or not do and there’s ample space to get lost in paradise, in grand style. www.bahamar.com Family is fun, but sometimes there’s only the company of fellow adults as traveling companions, and this latest addition to Paradise Island exceeds any couple’s expectation. The Warwick Paradise Island - Bahamas has all the amenities for just that. This all-inclusive rendezvous has ample dining options, and on-site spa and salon services to stay refreshed and stunning after a day of tanning or volleyball on the private harbor-front beach. For lovers exploring locales for their nuptials, try saying “I do” by the water’s edge. An ideal locale for a wedding or just a respite from the daily grind, watch the hustle and bustle of the outside world all pass by as if in a place far away, and revel in the thought that you’re not a part of it, just a spectator from your private harbor. www.warwickhotels.com/paradise-island-bahamas Atlantis is keeping up with all the latest additions, as well. This time, with a cultural immersion for their vacationers. Every other Saturday, marvel at the works of local Bahamian artisans during Art Walk. Explore their arts and crafts while sampling locally grown products. As an added treat, every Friday, guests can become experts on the regional and world-famous celebratory character, the junkanoo. This authentic experience provides a history lesson and examination of expression through elaborate and colorful costuming, dance and music. Enjoy a Bahamian meal, design and make your very own headdress
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and mask to wear during a special “Rush Out” later that evening. Come learn about releasing your “true self ” during “Discover Junkanoo”. The resort is also introducing immersive experiences at their new Dolphin Cay. Rise and Shine affords interactions with the dolphins’ morning rituals. Paddleboard Yoga is a core and mind strengthening excursion through their 14-acre habitat. For a closer look, or for them to get a closer look at you, try the kayaking and snorkeling activities in the crystal clear lagoon. Travelers to the all-inclusive Meliá Nassau Beach Resort are in for a treat, as over $19 million in renovations are now complete. The transformation of all 602 guest rooms includes a redesign of 102 exclusive rooms as part of the elevated resort experience known as THE LEVEL. The makeover capitalizes on décor that seamlessly unites the scenic Cable Beach and lush tropical foliage outside with the Caribbean feel inside. The newly refurbished fitness center is ideal to work off the meals and drinks at any time of the day or night. Whether coming with the family or traveling as a couple, the resort accommodates your needs. Elegantly exclusive, the One&Only Ocean Club has returned with splendor. Doors open with larger accommodations in the Hartford Wing, where a stroll along the new expanse of a balcony yields glorious views of the tropical flora below and the clear waters ahead. Rest assured though, one thing remains the same – their iconic butler service is at its best, and ensures that your every desire is attended. Take a romantic and inspiring stroll in the Versailles-inspired terraced gardens and marvel at a 12th-century Augustinian cloister that was transported piece by piece from France. www.oneandonlyresorts.com/one- and-only-ocean-club-bahamas. Grenada One to watch is Silversands Grenada, the upcoming high-concept, high-design, boutique hotel that will make its debut in Spring 2018 with a villa purchase option, as well. Keep an eye out for that coverage in upcoming issues. www.silversandsgrenada.com
BOOKREVIEW
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REVIEWED BY JEFF SOBEL
I “...this is a HEARTBREAKING tale where we see not only the loss of INNOCENCE that all adolescents go through as they become adults...”
n the Time of the Butterflies follows four young women as we observe how they deal with the everyday difficulties of growing up set against the backdrop of the Trujillo dictatorship in 1940s Dominican Republic.Shifting the perspective between the four Mirabal sisters, Alvarez etches deeper insight into each of these very different girls from one chapter to the next. While Patria, Dede, Minerva and Maria Theresa all provide unique voices that range from the timid to the revolutionary bold, they all share the same strength that binds them as they march through their own personal difficulties and joint struggles as a whole. The stories of each girl intertwines with one another, while also jumping ahead to the 1990s where Dede acts as the family historian, sitting down with an interviewer to explain what exactly happened to her family all those years ago. Overall this is a heartbreaking tale where we see not only the loss of innocence that all adolescents go through as they become adults, but at the same time we witness their loss of innocence in terms of their views of the country, and more specifically its leader. While the Mirabal girls in this historical fiction suffer the ultimate price, it could be said that through each of the sisters’ points of view we’re given an archetypical portrait of many women going through the same adversities, not just in the first half of the 20th century Caribbean, but even around the world today.
JEFF SOBEL
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BY Danielle Krause PHOTOGRAPHY BY Andrew Innerarity
W
alking off the plane at Barbados’ Grantley Adams International Airport, the scents of ocean and sweet frangipani waft through the tropical afternoon air. Dwayne of Platinum Services, holding a sign calling my name, welcomes me to the front of what is essentially a VIP counter and whisks me through immigration and customs in about five minutes. I don’t know it yet but I am going to be the rare American here as the UK and Canada make up the bulk of tourists, with direct flights from London Gatwick, they’re at eight hours travel time and six time zones away, while I’m only four from Miami and don’t have to adjust my watch. Curbside, I’m introduced to Karon, who steps from the Mercedes sedan, bottled water and cool scented towelettes in hand, she informs our route will avoid the center of town as school has just let out and traffic at this time, passes for rush hour. Minding the UK Driving Rule, we keep left at the roundabouts, passing through small residential neighborhoods and sugar cane fields. Gone are the days when sugar cane cultivation and its exportation was the island’s primary revenue generator, as the younger generation’s sights on the easier, more lucrative tourism industry, made its choice. During our short drive Karon proudly fills me in on cricket, Barbados’ national sport and the "The Three Ws”
Sir Everton Weekes who, along with Frank Worrell and Clyde Walcott, formed what is known as "The Three Ws" of West Indian cricket, a big deal throughout the English speaking Caribbean. Thirty minutes and several roundabouts later, I arrive at my first Elegant Hotels stay, the all-inclusive Crystal Cove, warmly welcomed by the manager, Sophia and some of her gracious staff, I accept their offered fruit punch and sip it on the breezy veranda, overlooking the calm Caribbean Sea. I’m in the town of Appleby, St James Parish, on the island’s legendarily calm western side, understandably called the Platinum Coast because sometimes, the ocean really does look platinum against the deliciously soft golden sand beaches and azure skies. The northernmost point of this island separates the Caribbean Sea from the much rougher Atlantic Ocean where Mother Nature has thousands of miles of open ocean to create her waves. Fruit punch finished, I walk the lush tropical gardens, the guest rooms look like pastel colored chalets nestled six together, sprinkled along the beach and hillside. They remind me of a tropical ocean-side village. With it's own walk up entrance and balcony doors that open onto the beach, revealing even more sweetly scented trees, my room’s contemporary furnishings add to the bungalow feel.
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ff with the travel clothes and into my swimsuit, I head for the center of the property and two boulderlined irregularly shaped swimming pools whose novelty has an all-age appeal, enticing children and Bond villains alike. Ordering another fruit punch from the bartender Cedric at the swim-up side of the bar, I peer behind him into the grotto-like Cave Bar, rated one of the top ten swim-up bars in the Caribbean. My back against the counter I look left at the manmade rock formations, to my right are waterfalls and a bridge that give these pools a naturalistic organic feel. Musing I could spend all day here, because as a child you couldn’t have gotten me out, I realize I’m an adult and I have some serious four-day vacationing to do. This is the first part of my stay in two of Elegant Hotels five properties on the western coast. Turtle Beach, their sixth all suite, adults only property is located on the
south shore. I’m eager to take advantage of Elegant Hotels “stay in one and play in many” feature which means that while staying at any of the all-inclusive properties, I can explore and take advantage of the amenities and facilities of the sister locations. After another wardrobe change, it’s almost dinnertime and I find myself poolside, dining al fresco at Reflections restaurant where I’m eager to try the chef ’s suggestions. Overlooking the beach and gardens Chef Susan prepares a delicious juicy and tender oven roasted chicken in a Demi glacé white wine reduction, accompanied by locally sourced fresh roasted squash and yard-long beans. At my table she is generous in sharing suggestions how to prepare vegetables when I’m back home.
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etting my feet wet in the ocean has been tempting me since my arrival so after dinner I take late night stroll down the beach and watch the moon and stars. The waters are so calm and breezes so gentle, it’s a perfect way to end the day. I’m surely going to sleep very well, serenaded by the sound of the gentle waves lapping on the shore just outside my windows. After an excellent night’s rest I’m eager to see what the day has to offer. Fortified by the generous breakfast buffet of tropical fruits, made to order omelets, waffles, scrumptious pastries and breads, I’m fit to tackle any of Crystal Cove’s complementary water activities offered: tube rides, banana boating, waterskiing, standup paddle boarding, etc. Keeping my carbon footprint in mind with the notion of letting the wind do the work, I opt to refresh my sailing skills on a Hobie where Ryan hooks me up with a refresher lesson to help with my sea legs. We sail up and
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down the coast and as the winds pick up, I really feel the catamaran start to fly. In his trusted care I feel we could even fly a hull. Back at Crystal Cove lunch is buffet style at the seaside Drifters restaurant with the daily offering of salads, hamburgers, locally caught fish sandwiches, pizza, sweets and more. There are dishes to delight both young and old. I deliberately under eat at lunch because everyone has been raving about the island’s long-standing Friday night tradition: Oistin’s fish fry at St. Lawrence Gap. As my cab heads out, the manager, Sophie warns me not to be put off by the long line at Pat’s Place because it’s proof of how good her food is, especially the local fried flying fish. Arriving at Oistin’s, I have no trouble finding Pat’s, as the line is obvious, but it moves surprisingly quickly and I spend my time in line hoping for a place to sit. Luckily
I do. The meal served in Styrofoam containers and eaten with plastic utensils which is typical of this on the beach fair, with its many densely packed food stands, and picnic benches where diners sit shoulder to shoulder making new friends, as music blasts and the smell of cooking fish fills the evening air. The whirl of activity includes eating, drinking, and dancing on the main stage, which is fun and wiping my mouth, I salute Sophie’s advice with a tip of my Dixie cup. I’m glad I can ease my way back to the serenity of my ocean-side room by moving from this din to the quieter domino tents where about 25 enthusiastic men are engaged in that timeless contest. While the pieces are no longer made of ivory, the players’ will to win is as strong as it was when the game was invented. From there I peruse some arts and crafts stands before meeting my cab for the 30 minute ride back for my last night at Crystal Cove, because tomorrow it’s off to another Elegant Hotels property.
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wakened by the waves and not an alarm clock, I hop the convenient Off the Hook water taxi servicing the five Elegant Hotels’ west coast properties, for lunch at the Waves Hotel and Spa, a particularly eco-friendly property, designed for an all-inclusive, more adult pampering experience. The most recent of the Elegant Hotels, which opened in August 2016, is an eco-chic, bright and breezy location with a costal moderne flair and has 72 rooms, 18 of which are designated adults only. For the pampering and serene full spa-experience, from Aquafit pool classes, yoga and Pilates in the Serenity Gardens, and extensive spa facilities, to the locally sourced, organic health-conscious cuisine at the two restaurants Seascape and Shiso Asian fusion, everything is designed to provide guests with relaxation, restoration and revitalization. For my ocean view lunch at Seascape I start “nice” with a medley of roasted organic vegetables and quinoa, but finish “naughty” with the freshly baked key lime pie and almond milk cappuccino across the lobby at Kyma’s coffee shop. Today’s second water taxi ride is 45 minutes, heading north along the beach bringing me to Colony Cove, one of the
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most beautiful, all-inclusive Elegant Hotels properties. Nestled between Holetown and Speightstown, originally known as “The Clouds” this plantation style private residence was built in the 30's on seven acres purchased from the Trent Plantations. By the 40’s this unique property, renamed “The Colony”, was turned into one of the island’s first residential clubs with lush tropical gardens and elegant appointments. Many additions and improvements have been made since to transform this gorgeous property into Elegant Hotels expansive 96-room stylish Colony Cove Hotel. Guests can be as active or passive as they like. The complementary motorized water sports, sailing, boogie and paddle boarding, water-skiing, kayaking, and windsurfing are some of the water-based options. Colony Cove also has two floodlit tennis courts, full spa services, a beauty salon, organic cooking lessons, bait-to-plate fishing trips, and complementary yoga, Pilates and Zumba in their Fitness centre. While February is Adults only month, family and children oriented activities exist the other eleven months.
But for my purposes, I appreciate the architecture which provides each graciously appointed guest room and suite with a private patio or balcony that opens either to one of the four winding lagoon-style pools and waterfalls, the beach or the luscious tropical gardens. Imagine vaulted ceilings, open verandas, Bajan-style thick coral stonewalls, a lovely lily pad filled coy pond, and the most modern amenities in every guestroom, marble showers and oversized tubs, high thread-count sheets, Nespresso machines and of course flat screen TVs and wifi throughout. Daytime maid-services replenish the minibar, flowers and treats and turndown service includes bottled water on my nightstand and comfy slippers at my bedside.
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ince Holetown is just a short walk south from here, with its 1st & 2nd streets good for restaurants and nightlife, I venture to the artsy and bohemian boutiques at Chattel Village as well as the Limegrove Lifestyle Centre shopping mall offering the usual exclusive high-end labels. After some fun shopping I hear a blast of fun upbeat music rolling up behind me and realise it’s the Reggae bus approaching. For $1 US ($2 BBD) you can go all around as it’s one of two public bus systems that services the whole island. On the way home with my shopping in the left hand I wave back with my right at some uniformclad school kids who’ve clearly identified me as a tourist, as they pass St James Parish church, built in 1627 and the oldest on Barbados. With a half days shopping behind me, it’s time for dinner at the walk-up side of the appropriately named Sunset Bar. As I enjoy a blended tropical fruit and coconut punch watching the sunset, I think tomorrow I’ll have to try the swim-up side, for another refreshing drink and chat with the engaging bartenders. After sunset it’s a 20-yard walk to my gourmet dinner on the beachside torch-lit Sunset Deck. The mood is festive and I’m struck by the enchantment of this private paradise’s beauty and serenity. The perfectly seared bait-to plate mahi mahi is served with mashed sweet potatoes, tender kale, in a light coconut mango sauce. For dessert the tarte tatin a la mode is the perfect finish.
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true highlight in the midst of my dinner is the arrival of a huge hawksbill turtle, which comes within 10 yards of my table and starts digging a nest to lay her eggs. According to a volunteer from the Barbados sea turtle project, which works in conjunction with Crystal Cove, this a rare occurrence as the ancient hawksbill is one of the most endangered species due to the over poaching for her tortoise-shell carapace, the infrequent breeding habits and long maturation periods of this animal (only 1 of 1000 or so of her eggs will reach breeding maturity which takes up to 20-25 years). What a privilege to see this beautiful creature (the species is over 100 million years old) come so close. The whole event takes just over an hour before the giant covers her nest and heads back to the moonlit sea. After a superb night’s sleep in my beautiful suite, lullabied by the tiny whistling frogs me outside my balcony, I start my third day on the island with a healthy breakfast from the extensive Laguna Restaurant breakfast buffet, which includes all kinds of health conscious and indulgent options. I only have to walk a few yards to my lounge chair by the water’s edge to enjoy the tranquillity of the morning. Throughout the day cheerful ‘beach ambassadors’ bring me little refreshing seasonal canapés like frozen grapes, salmon bites and frozen drinks to keep me cool, happy and hydrated.
widest variety of marine life of the island, I get my fins and mask (complements of the beach activities hut) and snorkel within the huge cordoned off safe swimming area to the shipwreck. The marine life is amazing and the variety of brightly techno-colored fish is so surprising. I never knew that fish came in so many eye-popping hues, from pale blues, bright violets and turquoise, pink and yellows, silver and gold, to black fish with orange fins, On my forth and final night in Barbados I reflect on the wide range of my experiences and the variety Elegant Hotels has to offer. I’ve sampled an assortment of fish, from the gourmet mahi mahi meal at Colony Cove, to flying fish eaten roadside from a Styrofoam container. I’ve taken a Mercedes taxis on land, water taxis, a Hobie Cat and public transport for a buck. I think regardless of your preference this hotel chain has something you’ll love, whether it’s the charming, light and breezy family friendly amenities of Crystal Cove; the modern eco-chic, partially adults-only, pampering spa philosophy at Waves Hotel and Spa; or the palpably colonial elegance whose individualised attention is lavished on guests from check-in to departure at Colony Cove, there is something for everyone and thanks to the water taxi you can “stay in one and enjoy many.” Danielle Krause
Having heard that the Folkestone Marine Park, which is right next to the property, features some of the best and
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Groo
Port Antonio, Jamaica
m eeja Ho
a g t n G iv
BY Danielle Krause and Andrew Innerarity
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am breaking with conventional vacationers’ wisdom on this trip to Jamaica and heading for Portland Parish, on the northeastern side of the island’s vacation coast.
My colourful half day-long drive from the Montego Bay airport to Port Antonio take me along Jamaica’s North Coast Highway, ending at the iconically cool Geejam Hotel, a mix of chic bungalows and elegant villas with an onsite recording studio. Tucked away in the foothills along the Caribbean Sea, this magnificent six acres property, nestled in rain forest, is built around a pair of 300-year old sprawling fig trees. On the far side of town, at San San Estates, I make a hard right off the main road, the engine revving as my rental pulls me about a quarter of the way up the hill where I present myself at a check-in desk which has no desk, I’m in the hotel’s “Bushbar” a place as appropriately named as it is unconventional and eco-friendly: Check-in desk, restaurant, bar, lounge with pool table and weekly concert venue, all rolled into one. I take advantage of the check-in and bar, grabbing a blended fruit punch and the keys to “Rocksteady”, the name of my cabin. This whole area here is a Bird Sanctuary and natural preserve and the lush rain forest vegetation include an abundance of fruit and nut trees. Exotic flowers and plants frame the breath taking vistas of the shoreline, with forever changing colours depending on the winds and time of day. The view from my deck includes the sprawling von Hapsburg and von Thyssen family properties on Mack Bay, as well as San San, and beyond. The hotel is a collection of three fabulous private villas, three one bedroom, luxuriously outfitted, superbly decorated dark wooden cabins with pristine white interiors, appropriately named after Jamaican musical styles, (Ska, Mento and Rockstaedy) as well as a one bedroom suite and legendary recording studio. I throw open the picture windows and listen to the ocean waves gently break on the beach a few hundred yards downhill, a few steps to my right is the Drum & Bass Suite, whose designer bath tub, Jacuzzi, and wide veranda make that accommodation a bit larger than my place. Above this suite is Geejam’s state-ofthe-art recording studio.
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f I needed 3 guestrooms I would have U-turned at Bushbar and checked in to the sleek “Sanwood” 1960’s Villa designed by famed English architect Anthony Wade, a perfect place for families with small kids – nanny service is available - and the media lounge, verandas, and swimming pool which will entertain guests of all ages. Should I want even more space, like so many of the entertainment industry luminaries who frequent this piece of paradise do, I would head a few steps up the hill where two additional villas make up the Geejam Collection: These very private, upscale design villas both come with personal
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concierge service: “Panorama”, Audrey Hepburn’s former four bedroom island getaway, is of course swimming pool equipped, and large enough to be three villas under one roof, one for the kitchen, the other for the living area/media lounge, and the third for the bedrooms, each with en suite bathrooms. The address’ 360-degree views make its name obvious. Through one set of windows, a gorgeous view of Mack Bay and beyond, through another the John Crow and Blue Mountains, yes those Blue Mountains famed for their world-class coffee. Both vistas are the perfect backdrop for weddings, special occasions or a hilltop getaway. Just down from the summit is the stunningly designed “Cocosan” with its 6 bedrooms and 3 with private balconies, a state of the art kitchen, luxurious bathrooms, full service amenities, private gym, steam room spa and more. The furnishings and fixtures throughout the three villas reflect the perfect balance between ultra modern and the exquisite exotic and natural beauty of this island., Mid century Scandinavian furniture feature Saarinen, Eames, Jacobsen, and Le Corbusier, A huge collection of impressive visual art, with posters, designs and photography by renowned artists, hang on the walls (ie.Bansky and Juergen Teller) Amenities include pool and table tennis, full gyms, steam rooms, kids’ playground, personal concierge service and all share breath taking vistas of the rain forests contrasted against the cerulean Caribbean Sea below.
I notice that Wifi with blazing internet, is available throughout the property, even on the beach. Flatscreen TVs, ipod docks, Bose speakers, Apple home theatre and sound system. DVD/CD player, Aquabrass, Koehler, Hans Grohe, are also standard throughout. Great attention is given to providing impeccable service which include 24 hour room service and drivers that would chauffeur me to all the amazingly beautiful nearby beaches, falls, and river cruise and more. I do want to add a bit about the owners of this unique place since Steve Beaver was gracious enough to share about his and Jon Baker’s history. Baker realized his concept for combining high-end design, bungalows, luxury villas and an onsite residential recording studio, all nestled in the lush beauty of Jamaica’s nature when he hired Vidal Dowding, a young rising Jamaican architect. Having a mother who had been a famous fashion designer, designing dresses for celebrities such as Princess Anne, might have been influential in sparking Baker’s own design talents. He got into the fashion business himself while developing a growing involvement with the music scene. His career turned to music production in the 80s with his Gee Street label which he launched under Chris Blackwell’s UMG (Universal Music Group) umbrella, and signed and or promoted artists like PM Dawn and Queen Latifah. In the ‘90s Baker purchased the land on which Geejam now sits and in the ‘00’s he sold Gee Street to Richard Branson, to move permanently to Jamaica and became a citizen. He and now co-owner of Geejam, Steve Beaver met in Hong Kong at a music festival in
the mid 90s and but lost site of each other until 10 year later.Beaver, having grown up in his father’s record shop knew by the age of 15 that he wanted to be in the recording industry. In the ‘70s he worked as a club DJ by night, and record “exec” by day. By the end of the 90’s and early 00’s he was promoting wildly popular, high intensity dance and Reggae music in Japan and Hong Kong. It was by chance that he came to Jamaica in 2006 looking for Baker for a possible recording project. The possibilities he saw here amazed him and he fell in love with the place. He has since made this one of his permanent homes saying it is such an amazingly inspiring place for creativity and productivity, “ the energy on this property is undefinable and undeniable.” Baker and Beaver decided to set up a formal partnership to completely restore Geejam and make it an exclusively private, luxurious and beautiful destination with for musicians, celebrities and anyone craving an inspiring paradisiacal getaway.
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Beaver says of Baker ”with his mercurial, visionary mind, he is one of a very few people who could pull this whole thing off.” The Geejam Collection opened to the public in 2008 and is part of the Island Outpost brand. It has been extremely successful and frequently visited and revisited by a very long list of dedicated celebrities and royalty. It has received many accolades and was recently voted #1 by Tripadvisor.
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itting at lunch I remark how easy it is to come here and enjoy the finished product without knowing the backstory. But I’m called back to the present when Floyd the guest services manager greets me and asks if I’m ready to take a tour of the property. I’m not given any special treatment, this tour is available to any Geejam guest. In fact the studio is available for any hotel guest who would like to rent it out, professional and non-professional musicians alike. We head down the hill
about 70 yards, through the fruit and flowering trees, to the Recording Studio. Once inside we enter the control room, which is lined with Wood on one side and overhead acoustic baffles to optimise listening and editing. Many artists actively seek out older sound boards like Geejam’s 2008 Neve 16 track, sound console, as well as old fashioned Avalon tube amps as these give a more desirable, rich sound. These days Protools and Autotune are also standard. Musicians come the first time because of the amazingly inspiring location and it’s that “undefinable and undeniable….it gets those juices going” that keeps them coming back for more. Today the Kingston musicians Runkus, Iatosh, KRS, and their manager, Habibi have booked the space to work on an upcoming project. Previous artists have included Amy Winehouse, Bebel Gilberto, Alicia Keys, Björk, John Legend, India.Arie, Florence + The Machine, Snoop Dogg, and Prince Faisal, yes THAT Prince Faisal, he did a song with The Jolly Boys.
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After the studio tour Floyd takes me further down the hill through almond, date and coconut trees to drop me off at the private, elevated sandy beach. He introduces me to Noel who is the Life Guard on duty and will set up my red lounge chair under the palm tree thatched umbrella. I can order anything to drink or eat here and Noel will make it happen. Kayaking and Paddle-boarding are available but since I’ve heard so much about the beautiful bay here and the spiritually invigorating mountain spring waters that
flow into the sea, I ask Noel to bring me snorkel and fins and proceed along the shore to the east. The waters are teaming with small, brightly coloured schools of fish and marine life, and I do feel the variations of warm and chilling waters… this marine sanctuary it is such a beautifully restorative, peaceful and private place to be.
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fter a long musical and sun-drenched day, I’m back at the culinary heart of the property, the Bushbar. For a light dinner I choose tonight’s chef special, the Mento stew, a delicious combination of locally grown organic vegetables, ripe plantain, and mini dumplings in a coconut milk infusion. For desert, the warm bread pudding with rum raisin ice cream round out my meal. A chat with Akeem, who has worked here five years, is one of seven chefs that rotate around the property. His mother initially taught him how to cook and he later attended school in Port Antonio to get certified. He loves cooking and his favourite dish is oxtail, which is frequently served on Fridays, Geejam’s Jamaica night and which is also when the veteran Jolly Boys usually come to play. The Jolly Boys are a typical Mento band, which is a Jamaican folk music that predates and influenced reggae music. After enjoying this star-filled tropical evening, serenaded by reggae strains and the bleeping of whistling frogs, I head back to my octagonal cabin to slip into my soft 500 count sheets for a good night’s sleep.
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awaken to the peaceful pink sunrise reflecting onto Mack Bay and head up the few steps to order a fortifying breakfast. Arnella brings me a huge plate of fresh locally grown papaya, mango, pineapple and bananas as well as thick, freshly baked toast and orange marmalade, (possibly a nod to Baker and Bevear’s British roots?) A large pot of freshly brewed Blue Mountain coffee is de rigueur. My plan for the day is to drive east to explore the famous Reach Falls. Since I am pressed for time I do make two short stops along my drive to get an impression of some of Northeast Jamaica’s top must–see list which I will undoubtedly come back to visit properly at a future date. The mystically-coloured, bottomless Blue lagoon of the movie fame, and the world famous, top ranked private beach at Frenchman’s Cove, with it’s brilliant white sands and amazingly clear turquoise waters, are just some of the many breathtakingly beautiful sites to behold in Portland Parish. After about an hour’s drive I reach the newly renovated Reach Falls parking and facilities. Fortune has smiled on me because although it is Monday and the Falls are closed, I just happen to run into the owner of a large part of this land who very generously offers to walk me down through the rain forest to one of his favourite swimming spots to swim in turquoise pools. The water is very cool but so refreshing after the heat of the day. When heavy rains come, the waters rise dramatically making the currents extremely swift and powerful. After a few hours of walking the stones, down through the riverbed and dunking myself under the various waterfalls, it begins to rain. Heading back up the mountain to my car, I drive back along the coastal road stopping at Boston Beach to pick up my dinner of what is arguably the very best and most authentic jerk chicken in the area. Boston beach is incidentally the birthplace of this traditional Jamaican cuisine. Another place not to be missed!
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My last evening here, Steve has invited me for a drink at the Bushbar. We chat about music, artists, life and some of the crazy adventures he and Baker went through to get this place to where it is now. He visits here frequently since it is one of his homes and Baker lives here most of the year. Both are very hands on and take a personal interest in looking after their guests, whether it is taking them for walks or swims along their favourite routes, or spending a meal sharing stories into the wee hours. Many artists and guests have become friends and return here for special occasions, weddings, birthdays, anniversaries and parties, any event where guests know they’re every need will be looked after. Although this seems like a more remote part of the island, there are numerous ways of getting here. By air there is charter service from Kingston or Montego Bay to Ken Jones Airstrip, and private jets can fly into Ian Fleming’s International Airport. The Old San San golf course accommodates helicopters and chauffeur pickup is complementary for guests staying five nights or more nights. If arriving by water, the Errol Flynn Marina and Ken Wright Cruise Terminal are just 15 minutes away. By car it is a three-hour drive from Kingston and a five-
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hour drive from Montego Bay. Geejam works closely with VIP services at both Montego Bay and Kingston airports to ensure that guests are handheld all the way here. Perhaps in time, Jon Baker will do for GeeJam, his luxury island resort, what Bob Marley did for Reggae and his homeland: Make their passionate undertaking internationally renown. So far so good for Baker whose Port Antonio, Jamaica property, part luxury bungalows - part luxury villas - part recording studio is equally appealing. Whether musically-inclined guests want to lay tracks and drop beats or simply take a break from their “responsible” lives, Geejam is the place to accomplish as much or as little as guests like. Danielle Krause and Andrew Innerarity
Changes in Latitudes, Changes in Attitudes.
Margaritaville Beach Resort Grand Cayman invites you to change your latitude for a tªYá à YĄĄĄď YĄ Ąª òøĄ ﶶ¬ø òĘt Yòjj Yà +Yò¡YòĄYʶ¶ = øÊòĄ Yà ĚÚ ò Ãt Y øďìøÊYµ } ďà Êò¡ ĄĄYj¶ Êt YÃĘ ę ĘYtYĄÊÃà 269 West Bay Rd | Grand Cayman KY1-1204 | Cayman Islands | 1 855 640 6440 | MargaritavilleResortGrandCayman.com
AN
ELEGANT AWAITS IN
BY Ava Rosales
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elize is renowned for its tropical rainforest, and the San Ignacio Resort Hotel in San Ignacio, Belize, has commemorated its 40th birthday with renovations that exude worldclass, luxurious accommodations cradled in the bosom of the unspoiled jungle. With only 26 intimate rooms on property, there’s not only opportunity to become familiar with your fellow travelers, but also to be privately swept away in the serenity afforded by this boutique oasis. Awaking each morning to the delightfully melodious cacophony of sounds emanating from the natural landscape is gloriously invigorating, especially when enjoyed from your comfy and quite lavish suite. Commendations to the designer for manipulating the indoor spaces to complement the surrounding environ. Taking advantage of hand-crafted Belizean hardwood and sustainable mahogany punctuated by white fabrics and room decor, enhances the tropical feel and commune with the landscape. Butler service is the finishing touch that reminds you that your respite is more aligned to that of Lord Greystoke than Tarzan. However, take full advantage of transitioning between the two roles, since it can so easily be done at this resort.
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Venturing into the jungle just steps away is a must, and a close encounter with Green Iguanas is an absolute mustdo. These threatened reptiles are at the forefront of the protection efforts by the Green Iguana Conservation Project. After a few hours spent with nature’s exotic creatures, hiking through the lush, natural landscape, and learning about the numerous medicinal plants and herbs that are found on property, a leisurely soak in the in-suite jacuzzi is just what’s needed to re-engage with the finer pleasures of life. Just downstairs, it’s refreshing to swap tales of wildlife encounters over a cocktail in the Baroque-themed Lobby Bar, before heading into the formal dining room. The next day, a jaunt off property allows for further exploration of the local wonders. By water, a canoe excursion through the caves is reminiscent of journeys that earlier explorers and the indigenous people must have taken when they traversed the region. The nearby Mayan ruins provide further insight into the magnificent culture that once reigned supreme. There is also opportunity for a close encounter with the local delicacy that is irresistible to most – chocolate! What
better place to learn how to make chocolate than where the cacao is naturally found and has been for millenniums. Learning from one of the local business owners is an even more special treat. Give your feet and calorie indulgence a rest by ziplining high above the jungle canopy, or with a little less adrenaline rush, atop horseback, riding in the Mopan River Valley. Undeniable, the San Ignacio Resort Hotel is an ecotourist escape that captures the feeling of home with luxurious comforts and amenities surrounded by the lush landscapes of Belize that offers a cultural exploration parallel to none. www.sanignaciobelize.com Ava Rosales
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Jamaican
Classic Jamaica Inn BY Gina Hines
If you didn't grow up in Jamaica... here's your chance. Every story about this inn must begin with the words classic and authentic. I don't see any other way around those two words when it comes to chatting about this elegant hotel on Jamaica's north coast. The hotel made its mark on me from the moment I landed. I was greeted and escorted through immigrations and customs and because I had just returned from a part of the world where malaria was a concern, I was even briskly walked through a nurse’s station where information was given to me about what to do should I suddenly feel any of the symptoms. What a great way to keep the island, its visitors and residents safe. Thankfully, I experienced none of the symptoms and enjoyed the best of Jamaica. Having grown up on the island, the name Jamaica Inn was synonymous with class and elegance, but now being Americanized and having the opportunity to see it like a native yet experience it as a guest, the perspective was bound to be different, however I hoped it wouldn’t be.
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fter clearing these entry points to the island, I connected with some friends who had flown in only minutes ahead of me. After a quick meet and greet, we were in the resort transportation and on our way. Not sure if it was kismet or just that I had my foot in the door first, but I got the front seat. The entire hour and a half drive from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios, I had a front row seat and a bird’s-eye view to my past, brought current. While the road stretched out before us, the girls were enjoying the ride as much as I was, I felt awash with nostalgia. This was my home and the feeling was accentuated more pointedly as we passed my hometown of Discovery Bay. Had the car broken down and we could not go any further, the trip would have been enough for me, but alas, there was more history in store. Drawing closer to where I knew Jamaica Inn sat, just on the outskirts of the busting business district of what most people know as downtown Ocho Rios, I started to get a little more excited than I had been. Even more excited than
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when I asked the driver to make an impromptu stop at a road-side shack with a sign that simply said (through clouds of smoke) roast yam and salt fish, and trust me… that was exciting. Being on the side of the road, tasting the smoky flavors of my childhood, and sharing it with friends who had not been privy to such delights was second to none. Now this. The subtle sign that we had arrived was exactly that. A simple, small sign on the side of the road indicating that one had indeed arrived. As we passed through the guarded gate, the driveway created a visual path that guided my eyes through the vegetation to my first glimpse of the famed Wedgwood blue that predates Tiffany blue by almost 100 years and, in my opinion, is far classier. My excitement to experience this Jamaican treasure continued to build. I wasn’t in my cottage yet, and just the approach had painted a smile on my face that ran from ear-to-ear.
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hen there it was, beyond the front desk staff who had been awaiting our arrival. The ones who had greeted us and immediately asked, “Will you be having a rum punch or fruit punch?” The expression on my face let them know I was no teetotaler and ready to hop into Jamaican beverage consumption mode. All kidding aside, I hope the look on my face was genuinely reflective of what I was thinking. I had stepped out to be welcomed by more than the staff. There was an inviting view of the sea beyond the croquet lawn. A swimming pool only steps from a lacquered wood beach bar, and soft golden sand framing the crescent beach that was all ours for the next week. My smile had to have broadened. By the time I had soaked in most of the view and started to plot my next move, be it lounge chair on the sand or one by the pool, I was escorted to my cottage. Jamaica inn, built in the 1950’s was made up of rooms and suites in the two main buildings but have since added cottages. The rooms and suites are spacious and classically appointed. The flooring throughout is very recognizable, to me. The feel of the handmade local tile against your feet is as refreshing as a cool shower. The tiles don’t add to the authenticity of the Jamaica Inn experience, they are the foundation of it. Every inch of this hotel screams, very subtly, authentic Jamaican luxury experience. It may be for this very reason why Jamaica Inn has called out to many a celebrity over the decades. The famous Marilyn Monroe honeymooned here, right in the suite frequented by Sir Winston Churchill himself. The rich history of the place and its past and current guests adds depth to the experiences shared and memories made here.
“Jamaica Inn has called out to many a celebrity over the decades. The famous Marilyn Monroe honeymooned here, right in the suite, frequented by Sir Winston Churchill himself.”
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“Hearing the water wash up against the shore below my table enhances the experience and you realize you couldn't be having this sort of thing back home.�
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lthough I could have had breakfast on my veranda, or in the air-conditioned comfort of my cottage’s living room, I chose, daily, to take my breakfast in Shanti, the seaside dining room outfitted with pink linens and lovely service. Hearing the water wash up against the shore below my table enhances the experience and you realize you couldn't be having this sort of thing back home. In some of the over water suites you could, but most likely not back at home. With views that change with passing boats or swimmers and fish swimming by, breakfast can stretch on for quite some time. Butterflies and birds cruise by on their way to who knows where, probably just taking in all the beauty themselves. Looking out on the water as the morning comes to life is a treat and the fresh fruit, selection of breads, homemade marmalades and jams and traditional Jamaican breakfast foods all fill me with a feeling. Of satisfaction on many levels. The Jamaican experience is very real here and the fact that today’s traveler is seeking out genuine connection to their destination, the hotel caters to experiential travel. There are trips to the local farmer’s market on Fridays with the chef, the rum mixology class at the beach bar and twice weekly garden tours. Bespoke activities, for a real taste of Jamaica, beyond these Wedgwood walls can be curated by the staff. Rafting on the White River, lunch in town or High Tea up
at Noel Cowards estate, Firefly, can all be arranged. Even the more typical excursions here are elevated for the guests. Climbing Dunn's River has got to be one of the island’s top attractions, making it quite a hectic scene. From Jamaica Inn, guests leave early in the morning before anyone else is at the falls and experience it in its most natural state. A boat picks you up and propels you to the falls in luxury and tranquility. You'll get back to your essence here, I know I certainly have. Being at the hotel for a few days, I have noticed the chatter in my head subsided and the beauty and tranquility has taken hold. I am genuinely relaxed as the gentle trade winds blow. Owner Peter Morrow believes the hotel brings guests back to their essence by quieting the mind. He says he sees it in every guest. There's a difference between when they arrive and a few days of being here. When I told him I had experienced exactly that, he agreed that it was the gentle trade winds that help bring about the calming effect. I tend to agree with the gentleman. His family has owned the hotel since the 1950's and he grew up here. He’s got history on his side. If he says it’s so, it’s so. The most interesting thing about my impending departure is that, although I will miss watching the staff and guests play croquet, I am not dreading heading home. I am in a state of total relaxation and will return to this classic hotel sooner than later. Gina Hines
The
SweetOf Smell
Relaxation
THE SPA UNCOMMON That smell would be chocolate, well, Roses and chocolate to be exact with the translation. The boutique hotel and spa Rosas & Xocolate embodies this concept to a tee. This seemed like, once we heard the name, a no-brainer. Why hadn’t other popular spas been called this before? These two things are commonly thought of as the stereotypical girl’s best friends. The hotel and spa are a result of passion and a dedicated effort by a collective of artisans and craftsmen who brought it to life. Even the use of Rosas in the name has an intrinsic value to the owners. The word Roses is in honor of the owner’s mother. Xocolate, because of its nexus with the history of the town Mérida, since cocoa has been central in the tradition of pre-Hispanic peoples of Mexico. This connection is found even more specifically in the Mayan civilization of the southeast part of the country which is the geographic location of the hotel.
*Xocolatherapies at Rosas & Xocolate utilize 100% pure cacao. *For the kids visiting the spa, the “Ritual Rain of Roses” is a delicate” knees to feet” massage with oils and roses while enjoying a chocolate ice cream. Sounds delicious!
“The abiding atmosphere in the space which I venture to describe as a seductive labyrinth, proposes a transportation of the senses, from the bodily to the spiritual and vice-versa.” - Kolozs Carol Fischer, CEO
Rosas & Xocolate revolves around the history of its town. This connection is most inescapable in the hotel’s SPA. One of its signature treatments is the Rosas & Xocolate Experience. The guest is completely covered in two thin layers of chocolate and cacao, combined with different natural ingredients, so the body has a chance to absorb all of the nutrients. Afterwards, a steam bath melts the chocolate away and is meant to detoxify, resulting in the skin being very smooth and has a scent of chocolate. Who on earth would not want these two things? This sounds like a perfect girlfriend’s getaway to us. The rooms are fresh and modern while utilizing native wood and elements throughout.
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DEVIL That Ol’
RUM:
Raisingg Cane BY Jordan Simon Photography By Andrew Innerarity
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ome years ago at Cap Juluca, then-G.M. Guish Guishard capped a delightful dinner with some pre-Castro Montecristo No. 2s and a bottle of 1952 Rhum Clément. The slightly shriveled stogies had aged surprisingly well, but the rum… ah, the rum was still youthful, vigorous, and utterly sublime. The elixir commingled on the palate with the savory tobacco, channeling both Hemingway and a Caribbean long vanished in the smoke of time. It was, pardon the pun, a spiritual experience. Though it originated 3,000 years ago in China, Egypt, and India, rum is virtually synonymous with Caribbean history. Columbus planted sugarcane (indigenous to Papua New Guinea) on his second West Indies voyage in 1493; the distilled product was first labeled kill-devil and served to plantation slaves to alleviate their squalid existence. As grog, it became part of the British Navy’s rations, again to appease harsh conditions. Yet by the 18th century, the ruling classes had anointed rum a substitute for brandy, while sugar and molasses had become the lucrative cornerstone of Caribbean economy and trade – the infamous Rum Triangle indirectly leading via draconic taxation to the American Revolution. Afterward, in an early example of supporting local product, whiskey distillers began to flourish and despite Prohibition’s risk-taking rumrunners, demand for rum didn’t revive until the 1950s. etymology remains shrouded in mystery Though the word’s word s etym Latin for sugar, or rumbullion, (derived either from saccharum, sacc and its usual result, “uproar”), old Devon dialect for “firewater” “fi rocketing in popularity again. The fastesttoday rum is rocke growing white spirit in the U.S. market, it grow played a key role in the last decade’s cocktail culture renaissance, with such legendary libations as the daiquiri and mojito trendy anew. But it’s more tthan just the base for frothy, frou frou concoctions in Day-Glo™ colors with con umbrellas. Aged (viejo or añejo in Spanish, umbre vieux in i French) and estate-bottled reserve the balance, complexity, and rums feature fe smoothness of fine single malts and cognacs, smoothn suited tto sipping straight from a snifter, perhaps warmed slightly (one ice cube will also concentrate the aromatics).
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Despite the wide range of types (white to gold/ dark to aged, even spice- or fruit-infused) and lack of uniform production standards, the base process is identical: distillation of sugarcane juice or its byproducts (molasses). Sugarcane variety, terroir (a French term embracing all conceivable growing conditions, including microclimate, soil, altitude, water, drainage), and distinct/ ive production techniques (such as using either natural organic or proprietary propagated yeast strains – often jealously guarded secrets over generations) play major factors in determining aromatics and flavor profiles. Uniquely designed, traditional small-batch copper pot stills extract spirits à la Cognac or Scotch from fermented mash, producing a denser, more flavorful alcohol that includes esters and congeners such as fusel oil. Other producers prefer the more modern continuous-still method favored by Bourbon makers, the higher-proof distillation yielding purer, less flavorful alcohols (aging and blending then boost the flavor profile). Some brands like Appleton Estate blend the two à la Armagnac.
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“Appleton Estate Master Blender Joy Spence calls it 'more an art than a science' while quipping that the 'secret formula would stump the CIA.' ”
T
he aging process/barrel selection is crucial. The woods (usually recycled and charred, from American white oak to French Limousin) impart deeper color, intense fragrance, complex aromas, and persistent yet mellower flavors thanks to their tannins, cellulose, and flavonoids. The oak’s permeability enables the water and alcohol to diffuse into the atmosphere, minimizing the rum’s sharpness. In tropic climates, up to 20% of the barrel’s contents can be lost annually to evaporation (this is dubbed the “angel’s share”), which results in the rum maturing more quickly than Scotch or Cognac. Some producers offset the evaporation by topping a barrel from its neighbors of the same vintage. Still, aging remains a touchy topic. Since after a decade barely 10 gallons might remain in a 55-gallon barrel, Cruzan Rum’s master distiller Gary Nelthropp jokingly wonders “How our competitors have so much 25-year-old rum.” Anthony Dias Blue, noted wine/spirits columnist and Executive Director of the prestigious San Francisco World Spirits Competition observes, “Long oak exposure adds immeasurably to [their] depth and complexity," yet aging remains controversial in other ways. Some producers contend that more than eight years is unnecessary, even detrimental. Like all wood-aged spirits and wines, rum benefits from a certain period in the cask, developing creamier texture and more complex aromatics. But each individual barrel peaks at a different point and begins absorbing harsher oak attributes, leading to imbalance. Though the final product is literally a matter of taste, the blender’s skill becomes paramount, especially since a sugarcane crop varies from harvest to harvest. Blending teams conduct regular quality checks to ensure stylistic consistency and monitor aging closely since there can be
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unexpected variations after five years in barrel. Appleton Estate Master Blender Joy Spence calls it "more an art than a science" while quipping that the “secret formula would stump the CIA.” She uses many different types and styles of rum “to create a blend as an artist uses different colors to create a painting.” Which underscores the fact that rum is a product of culture and tradition as well as Nature; each island, indeed each company (many owned by multi-generational families) takes pride in its distinctiveness. Martinique is a perfect example. Its Rhum Agricole uses the entire crop – and only during the brief harvest as opposed to year-round, a pricier process than Industriale (utilizing molasses). In less meticulous hands, this imparts more herbal, vegetal, mineral characteristics. But France awarded Martinique a coveted Appellation d'Origine Controlée, a seal of approval attesting to the origin and authenticity of each bottle of rum à la French wine certification; producers must comply with legal restrictions on cane varieties, yield, distillation, aging, and production zone, without adding preservatives or coloring. Meanwhile, Puerto Rico rums by law must age a minimum of 1 year in charred white American oak barrels, imparting balance and smoothness to the blanco; though a few are aged a decade or more, most are released younger, as are many Cuban and Dominican rums which tend to be lighter and more delicate. Small wonder distillers resist any efforts at standardization, let alone defining what precisely constitutes rum So next time after dinner toast Caribbean culture: Lift a glass of premium rum and lift your spirits. Pre-embargo Cubano optional.
TASTING
NOTES
Here’s a partial list of top local choices. Pyrat (Anguilla); Cavalier, English Harbour (Antigua); Cockspur, Mount Gay, Malibu (Barbados); Pusser’s (BVI); Tortuga (Cayman Islands); Barcelo, Bermudez, Brugal, Matusalem (D.R.); Clarke’s Court, Westerhall (Grenada); Bellevue, Damoiseau, Musée du Rhum, Séverin (Guadeloupe); Botrán, Zacapa (Guatemala); El Dorado, Port Morant (Guyana); Barbancourt (Haiti); Appleton Estate, Myer’s (Jamaica); J. Bally, Clément, Depaz, J.M., Niesson (Martinique); Flor de Caña (Nicaragua); Carta Vieja (Panama); Bacardi, Don Q , Barrilito (Puerto Rico); Cruzan (St. Croix); Brinley Gold (St. Kitts); Bounty (St. Lucia); Angostura, 10 Cane (Trinidad); Diplomático, Pampero, Santa Teresa (Venezuela).
Angostura 1919
Brugal Extra Viejo Gran Reserva
(Trinidad; $35-$40; 40%; www.angostura.com). This blend of light and heavy molasses-based rums, aged at least 8 years then hand-blended and re-casked, is arguably superior to the older but less integrated 1824 – especially at barely half the price. The fetching old gold hue and confectionery factory bouquet (buttery caramel popcorn, toffee, honey, raisins, prunes, coconut milk, chocolate laced with smoke and spice) promise a Willy Wonka treat. The deceptively soft smooth entry, however, hints at the Dahl/Burton/ Depp darker side with nougat, cocoa, vanilla bean, toasted almond, and dried apricot edged with mesquite and peppery mace. The happy-ending finish lingers, light and delightful, without bite. A guilty pleasure: the gustatory equivalent of watching The Bachelor on your barcalounger.
(Dominican Republic; $25; 40%; www.brugalrum.com). I love the company’s 12-year Siglo de Oro and impossibleto-find 30-year-old Único, but this classy and classic rum is irresistibly affordable. The comely caramel color exquisitely catches the light, with a golden halo; the nose is equally celestial with honeysuckle, hazelnut, toffee, fig, and treacle. These continue on the heavenly entry, the clover honey and baked apple anchoring a medium-framed yet bountiful Botticelli body. Earthy yet ethereal, the lengthy finish impeccably integrates oak and alcohol, with butterscotch, pistachio, dark chocolate, tobacco, and pepper.
Appleton Estate 21 Year-Old (Jamaica; $129.99; 43%; www.appletonrumus.com). What a seductive robe: exceptionally clear amber with golden, ruddy and faint greenish reflections dancing around the glass. Then the multi-layered nose invites total surrender: a Carmen Miranda fruit basket with quince, pear, apricot, banana, raspberry, and the house’s patented orange peel and Madagascar vanilla, countered by peat, pecan, and whiffs of menthol and anise. Viscous and velvety on the palate, it’s almost like drinking liquefied hazelnut crème brûlée alongside the finest Blue Mountain coffee. Lush lusciousness is perfectly balanced by pipe tobacco on the lengthy finish. Its finesse and muscularity suggest an exceptional integration of wood and alcohol.
Barbancourt Réserve du Domaine (Haiti; $35; 43%; www.barbancourt.net). Selected from the Gardére family’s private stock, this limited-quantity estate rum is pressed from hand-cut locally grown cane, doubledistilled in pot stills, then aged in white-oak barrels. Haiti is celebrated for the visual arts, and the gleaming copper color with golden flashes evokes Renaissance gilt. The beauteous bouquet recalls Spanish brandies: vanilla, Brazil nut, and praline yield to fleeting wisps of peach and dried apricot, framed by ghostly notes of cherry tobacco and chocolate. A silken entry leads to a voluptuous yet vigorous mouth-feel, with heavenly honeyed accents mingling with stone fruit, with a forever finish, the fade hinting at espresso-tinged molasses. Scrumptious and remarkable value.
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Captain Morgan Spiced Private Stock (Puerto Rico; $30; 40%; www.captainmorgan.com). Remember when you were a kid, anticipating S’mores at the campfire accompanied by ghost stories? This is the adult alcoholic equivalent, right from the lovely clear umber robe with tantalizing orange highlights. Ah, what aromas: clove, vanilla bean, peach brown betty, and yes, marshmallow, chocolate and graham cracker. The smoothly dense entry gradually tapers into a slightly herbaceous, sweet potato, leathery, pipe tobacco mid-palate and aftertaste that aren’t at all unpleasant, providing a bracingly masculine note that prevents the rum from cloying, before a smoked almond and pepper fade.
Rhum Clément Founder’s Cuvée Homère (Martinique; $84.99; 44%; www.rhums-clement.com). This top-of-the-cellar master’s selection incorporates the best vintage rums of last 15 years, each contributing its own flavor profile and nuanced complexity. It features a captivating orange-crimson glow that plays teasingly with the light; long Cindy Crawford legs form upon swirling. Refined and restrained, the white-glove whistle-clean, surprisingly dry bouquet recalls Highland single malt with peat, brine, golden currant, floral, cacao, butter, and dried stone fruit notes accompanied by hints of oak and cane. The Cognac-like, slightly phenolic entry simply underscores its seriousness. Impeccably balanced with well-integrated tannins on the palate, milk chocolate, orange peel, honeyroasted peanuts, and brown sugar commingle with classic Agricole notes of fresh tobacco, pepper, caraway, fennel, and fresh-mown dewy grass. A svelte, sophisticated sipper.
Rhum Clément X.O. ($134.99; 44%). This rare blend of very old rums includes the highly regarded vintages of 1976, 1970, and 1952 (my benchmark, available only at the distillery for 830€). The visually striking teardrop decanter with embossed gold script, etched drawing of the Domaine Acajou plantation, and incised seal contains luminous deep amber nectar with vermilion highlights of exceptional purity. Multifaceted aromas canter like a Triple-Crown-winning through-bred just put out to stud in a wildflower-strewn meadow: fruitcake, mulling spices, pepper, saddle leather, macadamia, toffee, honey, vanilla, and maple syrup. They gallop confidently onto the palate, harmoniously blending with tarragon, prune, raisin, chocolate, anise, and cigar smoke before finishing softly but firmly in a winning lap. The viscosity and depth are almost unreal, to the point where I doubted my senses. I flashed to that Seinfeld episode where our self-absorbed anti-heroes debated the authenticity of Teri Hatcher’s breasts, culminating in her defiant declaration: “They’re real and they’re spectacular.” Hyperbolic? Absolutely. But its rhapsodic yin-yang of delicacy and virility make the XO a best-buy steal even at $135. A comparable quality aged Cognac or Scotch would easily cost double.
Cruzan Single Barrel Estate (St. Croix; $34.99; 40%; www.cruzanrum.com) The world’s first single-barrel offering is a select blend of rums up to 12 years old, further aged in a single new American Oak cask. Wrapped in an absolutely stunning orange-amber robe, it then flashes you with creamy vanilla, almond, citrus peel, apricot, and cedar. Supple, sensuous entry leads to a slightly oily, medium-bodied (think 34B) frame, with layers of tropical fruit (mango, guava, banana), praline, and spice flirting with toasty vanillin oak that lingers on the finish accented by white pepper and smoke. Feminine but more chicly turned out than blowsily voluptuous, with just enough crispness: Sometimes perky blond cheerleadersnext-door go down more smoothly than brooding bad boys.
Depaz Blue Cane Amber Rhum (Martinique; $42; 45%. www.depazrhum.com) Produced from the finest estateproduced fresh-cut blue sugarcane from the foot of Mont Pelée volcano, then aged in barrel 12-18 months, producing a lovely, limpid rosewood hue kissed with honey. The peaty, bracing, spice-layered bouquet conjures Islay whiskey swathed with cane-y scents. The downy yet dynamic entry suggests Brazil nut, herbs, nutmeg, and carnation. Not unpleasant notes of pencil from lead tip to rubber eraser bespeak its powerful frame of white pepper, gardenia, petrol, and fines herbes. The finish continues detonating on the palate -- black pepper, clove, and pipe tobacco. An exemplary expression of pure low-oaked Rhum Agricole.
El Dorado 15-year Special Reserve
J.M VSOP
(Guyana; $30-$40; 40%; www.demrum.com). In the business since 1670, Demerara Distillers (Demerara is the generic name for Guyana’s dark rums, taken from the river of the same name) combines traditional methods and standards with modern technology. I honestly prefer their 15-year-old, blended from rums aged 15 to 25 years, to the admittedly delectable 21-year-old (double the price and itself a third the cost of the limited-edition 25-year-old Millennium bottling). It’s also a fave of HRH Prince Charles. The robe is an attractive, coppery teak; confectioner’s sugar, banana, and cedar star in the intricate array of aromas, with coffee, cocoa, and caramel in support. The satiny entry segues into a moderately full-bodied midpalate accentuating rich mocha, tobacco, toffee, grilled pineapple, and carambola wrapped tautly in oak-driven spice and vanilla. It luxuriates, a come-hither courtesan, on the tongue: inviting, warm and mellow. A nonstop nutty fade spiked with tobacco, chocolate, cardamom, and mace. This is a crowd-pleasing Hollywood blockbuster that delivers in terms of both commercial and artistic appeal; even rum-haters should enjoy it.
(Martinique; $50; 45%; www.rhum-jm.com). J.M’s vintage rums are highly variable (the most recent, 1997 was a winner), but for sheer quality/value, the VSOP is unbeatable. The topaz hue of remarkable clarity whets the appetite, as does the wildly, well, intoxicating nose. Amazingly sweet without cloying, it marries warm brown spices, vanillin oak, buttery scones with clotted cream, anise biscotti, banana, praline, marzipan, nutmeg, and hints of lilies, rainsplattered granite, chocolate-covered maraschino cherry and mandarin orange kissed with white pepper, fresh grass, and sandalwood. Like a Proustian madeleine, it captures childhood memories, perhaps Grandmother’s kitchen during the holidays. The aromas repeat, moving into lush luscious yet slightly dry notes of caramelized nuts, fig, raisin, pineapple passion fruit, and papaya. Round and rich with good tannic grip -- steel hand in velvet glove – it closes with an extensive fade of cinnamon, cigar box, pepper, ginger, and sage.
Flor de Caña 18-yo Centenario (Nicaragua; $40; 40%; www.flordecana.com). This supple, subtle mahogany-colored stunner is another great rum value, offering compellingly complex aromas and flavors. The aggressive nose parades butter, toffee, vanilla wafer, dulce de leche, and pecan pie scents. The equally assertive yet elegantly silky entry purrs with pure Porsche power. Bittersweet chocolate, pepper, cinnamon, baked pear, date, roasted almond, honeydew, tangerine, currant, char, and oiled leather loiter lasciviously on the palate. Beautifully proportioned, it’s a humdinger Hummer roaring along the taste buds.
Gosling's Family Reserve Old (Bermuda; $70; 40%; www.goslingsrum.com). Bermuda’s leading distiller celebrated its bicentennial in 2006, and Managing Director Malcolm Gosling Jr. proudly claims that its blending recipe dates back nearly as long. The Reserve mixes casks aged at least 15 years, resulting in a coffee-colored rum with heady Port-like aromas of chocolate, mocha, raisins, dates, spice, and dried tropical fruits like guava. The decadent richness is counterbalanced by refreshingly dry notes of smoke, pepper, bergamot, and mace on the mid-palate and lingering finish.
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Mount Gay Extra Old (Barbados; $35; 43%; www.mountgay.com): If you can’t find the sumptuous limited-edition Tricentennial created to celebrate the company’s 300th anniversary in 2003, this is a worthy (and affordable) substitute, with some rums in the blend dating as far back as 1969. The burnished pecancoppery color with ruddy highlights is tantalizing. Cocoa and coconut aromas open into a veritable pastry shop: pronounced cinnamon bun, banana-nut bread, brioche bread pudding, and maple-vanilla wafer. But if the nose is bouncy, there’s little frivolity on the palate. The body is lean yet unctuously full, as Tae Bo-dacious as a Bond flick chick’s. Polished yet powerfully tannic upon entry, its leathery, smoky, herbal accents resolve into nutmeg, caramelized almonds, banana, prune, tamarind, apricot, and ginger. Tea, toffee, and tobacco glide on the finish, with vanilla, spice, smoke, and roasted chestnuts whispering a lengthy farewell.
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Ron Pampero Aniversario (Venezuela; $30-$35; 40%). Pampero means “intense storm,” and the volatile equatorial climate helps deliver unique characteristics to this rum blended from casks averaging six years’ age. The result proffers a Cognac-like snout of floral, candied, and spicy scents slightly recalling a great uncle’s musky cologne and pipe tobacco in a clubby library. Coiled flavors unfold on your palate like a tiger waiting to pounce: butterscotch, cappuccino, roasted walnuts, allspice, and caramel apple. The tannins are firmer than an orthopedic mattress, the texture soft as satin sheets (it’s almost like eating sinful gelato in bed). Yet it retains a clean, refined balance thanks to hints of smoky oak, coffee, spice, roast nuts, mint, and suede to counter the rich ripe tropical fruit and raisin flavors on the fade. A best buy!
(Venezuela; $39; 40%; www.santateresausa.com). Produced by the solera system, in which younger rums continually replenish older batches (up to 35 years’ age), this silken stunner is a vital, voluptuous yet mature actress at her peak. Salma Hayek, perhaps: initially sweet and buttery yet sporting a bracing peppery, spicy, even tart edge layered with complexity. Deep caramel robe and aromas of Brazil nut, toffee, praline, clove, vanilla, poached pear, and honey promise the night has just begun. Those seductive scents echo on the velvety entry, commingling with earthier lustier elements like leather, cigar, and peppercorn. Full-bodied but taut, there’s no excess fat on this balanced sex machine whose long finish teases the palate into submission with brown spices and toasty oak.
Ron Zacapa Centenario 23yo Pyrat Cask 23 (Anguilla; $210-$260; 40%; www.pyratrum.com). This ultra-limited blend of spiced rums aged up to 40 years is packaged in a numbered hand-blown decanter and fragrant cedar box. The equally distinctive contents commence with the almost chocolatey yet crystalline robe. Tsunamis of scents sprinkle the nose: dried apricot, prune, green fig, grapefruit marmalade, and peach blossom honey underscored by praline and gingerbread. That olfactory opulence teases the taste buds, the poached pear/golden currant/date flavors brilliant balanced by a touch of tannic tartness. Suave and soigné, this is an older still-voluptuous woman seducing her friend’s son in a flowing Victoria’s Secret™ silk negligee (but much warmer than Mrs. Robinson!). Pyrat’s XO at $35 is superb value, but the 23 is as memorable as that first time.
Ron del Barrilito Three-Star (Puerto Rico; $25-$40; 43%). Puerto Rico’s oldest continuous distiller, still family-owned, produces this mellow smoky Rita Hayworth-as-Gilda noir temptress. Its glorious warm topaz color is inviting, as is the delectably complex nose of buttered popcorn, brioche, roasted pecans, and dried stone fruits with ripples of gardenia growing into waves of praline, mocha, and maple syrup. But Rita flashes her pearl-handled .38 on the dry, almost austere entry of mineral, smoke, petrol, and spicy oak before warming up again mid-palate with toffee then lingering with a smoky cognac-drenched kiss. The 2-star is a remarkable bargain, nearly as complex but more approachable, the perfect “entry-level” premium rum.
Santa Teresa 1796 Gran Reserva
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(Guatemala; $35-$40; 40%; www.ronesdeguatemala.com). This specialty item was once produced exclusively for the owners of Industrias Licoreras in tiny Zacapaneca, most of whose population proudly earns income by crafting the bottles’ hand-woven wrappers from royal palm leaves. The rum ages solera-style in American oak barrels 7,500 feet above sea level; the cooler weather limits natural evaporation. The concentrated result is like rum on Viagra™ and steroids, powerful yet graceful. Chestnut hue and long strong legs suggest the love-child of Carl Lewis and Tyra Banks. The dizzying dazzling bouquet mingles marzipan, chocolate, nutmeg, and orange with whiffs of chicory coffee (and the slightest suggestion of beignets in the distance). These continue on the palate, adding caramelized peaches, bananas Foster, cashew butter, Kalamata figs, and exotic Asian spice, with citrus peel, pepper, and oak nuances: robust, persistent, and longer-lasting than the Clintons’ careers with a triumphant finish no matter which candidate you support.
Jordan Simon
OUR Beach Club
VACATION
Eden Roc At Cap Cana
BY Peta Phipps
The most fun to be had at the beach, besides being a baby building sand castles and being slathered in sunscreen by my parents, is being a grownup and hanging out at some of my favorite beach clubs for the day. It’s all fun and games until the sun goes down and it’s time to call it a day. Eden Roc has solved my end-of-day emotional moment of detachment. The suites they have built at their beach club are everything. First things first. It's bright blue here! The colors are vivid and crisp but not jarring, and we are not describing Mother Nature’s handy work alone. The design of Eden Roc at Cap Cana’s newest suites blend right in. This Relais & Chateaux offering, appropriately named The Beach Club experience has almost stolen the show. The original portion of the hotel is made up of boutique suites more closely resembling villas, with private pools and golf carts that guests can use to explore the expansive grounds and get them to the golf course. They are nestled among lush gardens and have a European glamour interwoven with a Caribbean twist. The inspired colors of each of these suite’s exteriors come from the original houses in the Dominican Republic. Vivid and vibrant interior and exterior colors of pink, green, yellow and more, play off the color of the surrounding foliage. These boutique suites offer the ultimate privacy and intimacy with their garden and lagoon views.
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There’s one spectacular view down at The Beach Club. That view takes in everything from the rolling sea coming ashore on the club’s crescent beach, to the infinity edge pools whose spilling sounds pale in comparison to the gently breaking waves only feet from the excessively large patio. It’s really the only view you need. As the first guests to stay in these suites, with their exclusive beach butlers and concierge, there seemed little need for the iPad that allows guests to control the entire spacious suite from any part of the suite. I was as happy as a baby building sand castles. I could stroll around in my birthday suit, after walking up to my suite straight from the beach. I could peer out and see the beach bar without anyone seeing me. It is these little things in life that make me so happy. Here I have privacy and luxury…redefined. There are only 34 of these suites and each is designed for complete privacy. There’s a full kitchen, but who needs that when Blue Grill & Bar has also just opened and serves a breakfast with everything from the traditional staples to crepes; totally unexpected in the islands, or at least on this one. Not thinking about my bikini body at this meal, or any other for that matter, I dig in and am completely satisfied. At night, where the challenge comes in, is not just selecting items from a menu that’s chock full of tempting dishes, but in selecting which restaurant’s menu you’ll be studying for the evening meal. My best recommendation to counter this quandary is to stay a minimum of six nights, don’t worry, there’s a gym and plenty of other activities to work off the added calories.
“You’ll need two evenings here, to not miss a dish or cocktail that catches your eye”
You’ll thank yourself (and maybe me) for making your stay at least this length. Yes, for the helicopter tours, equestrian center, golf, beach and on and on, but mainly so you can manage to have two nights at each of the three, restaurant offerings. Blue, the restaurant I already mentioned to you at breakfast, dishes out on a Japanese-Peruvian fusion menu and plates it perfectly. Robatayaki and Nikkei cooking techniques are used to create memorable dishes in a stunning setting. You’ll need two evenings here, to not miss a dish or cocktail that catches your eye. Remember, there’s always a long walk on the beach following dinner. Let me back up to the cocktails. The Riva bar, themed around the design of a boat, where even the staff wear uniforms reminiscent of well-tended to yacht, is as smooth and charming as an actual ride down a body of water. There’s a piano tucked in the corner, so although there is a veranda option here, I opted to stay in the cool of the bar area and listen to the sounds that captured my imagination even further. This bar is right across from Mediterraneo, so pre-dinner cocktails are an easy decision. This restaurant features delectable Mediterranean specialties, as one might imagine, and an extensive wine cellar in the back of the dining room. The Caribbean always offers an outdoor dining option, even at the fanciest of establishments and that rule holds true here as well.
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One night we dined inside the wine cellar and managed to keep each other warm by sitting quite cozily together. The Second night we went alfresco and enjoyed the balmy breezes while taking in a different view from down at our beach club suite. Here we faced the village accommodations with their vividly painted exteriors, visible even at night. Listening to the breeze rustle through the palm fronds and the crickets awaken as evening falls is a fantastic backdrop to an evening of fresh seafood and what can only be explained as a Fred Flintstone sized steak, bone in. Letting that meal sink in and pending the day taking a ride to a deserted part of the island were exactly what I needed. I think that Eden Roc cast a spell on me. I never wanted to leave the resort for even an hour but had I not, I fear I would have sat at the beach bar and ordered the freshly made Piña Coladas. Well, you know the say about no matter where you go, there you are sort of thing? Holds true for me. Helicopter arrives, scoops us up and off we go, seeing the resort from above and much of the island as only the birds have seen it. We land on a narrow strip of sand. Water behind the tale and our nose grazing the hedges in front of the chopper. Brilliant maneuvering on the part of our pilot and I am sure, this dramatic perch has been perfected over the years. He was good and the landing was memorable. There’s a path made from bits of wood that lead us to the broader entrance to our afternoon playground. We threw our beach bags on the chairs by the lunch table and skipped down the sand to the water. No sooner had I backed into the sea, smiling and still skipping, did I see an ominous cloud approaching. Before it could turn my smile into a frown, there was a local at my side with a pineapple in hand. This could only mean one thing. “Si señor!” I am always in the mood for a fresh frozen delight, rain or shine. The thrill of taking a helicopter to grab a freshly made, in the pineapple, Piña Colada was greater, almost greater, than the joys of stepping off my verandah and sidling up to the beach bar back at Eden Roc. A little diversity is always a good thing.
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As appear to levitate from our landing spot on the beach, it’s a perfect takeoff and we are head back home to The Beach Club, already starting to think ahead to dinner. The third dining option, one we were yet to try, is right on the water’s edge and serves seafood prepared to perfection. I had the entire fish, head to tale. Ask for the Boca Chica style and your fish will be prepared in this traditional fashion with fried plantain and avocado salad. Listen to the waves rush ashore and enjoy the seaside dinner. This is usually an activity done at lunch at a regular beach club. The one where you need to leave at sunset. Not here. Eden Roc at Cap Cana has ensured you feel right at home in The Beach Club. This is luxury redefined in the Dominican Republic. The size of the boutique resort allows for intimacy and detailed service while the expansiveness and space of the overall property give a feeling of neverending freedom to wander. The beach club experience is everything it sounds like. Now you no longer have to imagine spending longer than an afternoon at a beach club, you get to live it for as many days and nights as your heart desires, butlers included. www.edenroccapcana.com Peta Phipps
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The Jewel Cottage | Windwardside Village Saba Dutch Caribbean 599.416.6150 www.sabaislandpremierproperties.com info@sabaislandpremierproperties.com
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Playacar has a totally different feel to it than other areas of the Yucatan. I knew there was diversity here as I’ve visited many of the destinations from Cancun to Cozumel. Somehow, I glossed over this intimate nook, adjacent to Playa del Carmen. The cluster of adults-only rooms and suites had my attention from the moment we entered the gates and I was greeted with a cool refreshing towel. That’s something I never turn away upon arrival. There’s that quick note of the freshly scented towel that says, “Wake up, you’ve arrived.” As I wipe my brow and press the towel firmly against my wrists to cool me all the way down, I begin to take notice of my surroundings. There was a lot to take in her at Royal Hideaway Playacar. This had to be one of the few Caribbean beach resort arrivals where I found myself initially admiring the foliage, fountains and paths that wended their way through what appeared to be pockets of accommodations. There are only 200 rooms at the hotel and the design separates them for maximum privacy and ultimate exclusivity. My reaction to not being immediately greeted by a sea of beach chairs and lounging guests was surprising. I think I had become a bit jaded or had grown so accustomed to that opening scene upon almost every arrival that I must have looked as though I had never been to a luxury resort in my life. Truth was that I was pleasantly surprised by the sumptuous gardens and decided to take it all in before being escorted to my suite. As I was let in to my room and simultaneously introduced
to my butler, I learned about my Nespresso machine, the amenities throughout the room and resort, operating the lighting and of course the functionality of my butler himself. He was at my service until evening fell and after his departure, If I needed anything at all, I could press zero and someone would be on the other end and fully at my service. These details mean a great deal to someone like myself. Travel is a passion for me, and because I do it so frequently, I often overlook some of the finer points. Having them spelled out, from time-to-time, can be an immense help in making sure I take full advantage of all the luxuries offered. One of those favorite offerings, although not in my face upon arrival, is the beach. There was no missing this strand of glistening white sand, from my room. I was practically perched on top of one of the best beaches in the world.
Although tempted by the sea, I had time to unpack and unwind, then ate lunch at The Deck. This restaurant hit the spot after a quick flight and a drive from the airport. I munched on nachos and grabbed a glass of wine. I was quite comfortable feeling the breeze, sipping my rosé and gobbling up all the traditional Mexican snacks, until the urge to hit the beach came over me. That’s when I headed back up to the cluster of rooms that I refer to as the villa, and just so happened to mention to my butler, who is seated only a few feet from my front door, that I absolutely loved the wine I had with lunch. Two questions later (in which restaurant did I dine and was it a white, red or rosé?) and I smiled and slipped into my room to change into a swimsuit. In the back of my mind, I felt
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like he might have a bottle sent to my room, but I had no real idea. Royal Hideaway Playacar is an adults only allinclusive hotel, so I figured it was just the beverages I had stocked in my refrigerator that were part of the plan. I was proven wrong in that assumption. Before I could slip on my cover-up, there was a gentle tap on the door and like an angelic sommelier, my butler was there with wine in hand and ice bucket ready to receive the bottle of pink goodness. Some parts of the world may only experience three to five months of pink-wine weather, but here in the Caribbean…I indulge whenever I want. The weather is always perfect for sipping on this. Having witnessed the bottle cozy up to the ice cubes, I skipped out of the villa and down to the beach, happy to
know I would be coming home to a perfectly chilled elixir if I somehow needed a magical potion to cure me of anything that inflicted me on the enviable stretch of white sand upon which the beach butlers had set up my covered seating. The now inescapable views of palm trees, white sand and baby blue water, was now surrounding me. I managed to immerse myself in the picture I was, only moments ago, merely admiring. I am in paradise and ready to relax, deeply. The breeze carries notes of suntan oil, sunscreen, freshly grilled temptations and notes that formed music to my ears. There’s a saxophone player playing at the pool behind me. As that breeze carries his music to my ears, I feel a drink order coming on. I’m in Mexico, so tequila comes to mind as a first option, but I am already attending
the tequila tasting upstairs in Spices in only a few hours. I don’t want to spoil that experience, so Piña Colada it is. When at Royal Hideaway Playacar, I have come to discover that there are very few things that are off limits to their guests. All the usual amenities are offered to every guest, but activities like my upcoming tequila tasting are so unique and experiential that I can hardly wait to get my sandy bum rinsed off and changed. I can’t do that just yet. There’s a Piña Colada heading my way, and I think it has my name on it.
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It’s a good thing I can read Spanish…it was indeed my adult beverage. I am not sure if it would have mattered as these servers on the beach are plentiful and quick to bring whatever it is the guests request to snack on or drink. Sipping on my cocktail, I take the calories laying down, I gaze out of my cocoon and imagine myself being far more active than I am. There are all sorts of watersports being offered, only feet away, but I refrain. There are even boat rides, where very little would be required of me, and still I lounge. Me and my Piña Colada are doing just fine where we are and that will be enough until the tequila tasting. I am pacing myself because there’s a long night ahead plus I arrived just today. Four more days to explore the resort and head to Tulum for an afternoon, so there’s enough time to be active in my near future. In anticipation, I do plan on getting prepared for Tulum and the further exploration of the resort. That preparation needs to include long walks on the beach, in the evening, and time in the gym because I fully intend to take part in dining at each of the six restaurants here at the hotel. I am especially looking forward to the intimate Chef ’s Table, where I am to be seated directly in the kitchen in a glass encased dining room outfitted with cameras and a flat screen television to showcase the detailing that takes place as each dish is plated for my enjoyment. That Chef ’s Table is happening tonight, right after my tequila tasting. Give the time of day and current sandy situation, I decided to head back to the villa and slip into my room. Greeted by name, by my butler, I paused for a moment as he seemed to have something to tell me. The news was an update to my itinerary. Tequila tasting had been bumped up for me by half an hour and since it was a private tasting, he wondered if I was ok with it, otherwise he would have moved it back to the original hour. I was fine with the shirt because, as he said, it gave me more time to prepare for the dining experience. Thinking rationally, I wondered, realistically, how many tequilas I could sit there and taste and still be able to get up and stand.
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One tequila, two tequila, three tequila…nope, not going to catch me saying floor, nor will I say four. We tasted six different types of tequila and my appreciation of the product soared. The head barman who hosted my tasting was so knowledgeable about the entire, painstaking, process of making tequila that I will now scoff at anyone who dares to shoot it in front of me. I fancy myself a bit of an aficionado at this point and a defender of the agave harvesting and roasting process. This liquor should be held up as the prize that it is. Ok, maybe I had a taste too much. Here I am, ready to don a cape and prevent alcohol abuse by anyone who chooses to do anything less than sip and savor tequila. I need to go and take another shower and calm down. Dinner is only an hour and a half away. Time to simmer down and get ready for what I have heard is a unique culinary experience. The chef is from France, the experience is focused on the fusion gastronomy and the preparation of each dish. The desire to experience this kept growing as I prepared for an elegant evening in the kitchen (behind glass and not cooking). A more eager diner they probably have never seen. I had a quick tour of the immaculately maintained kitchen and was then seated behind a wall of glass to observe the working kitchen. Chef paid exclusive attention to us
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and our dishes but the diners in the main dining room were ordering from the menu, so the show had to go on. I didn’t mean for this to be such a literal jump, but since the opportunity has presented itself, here I go. Speaking of show…we have a plasma TV hung in our dining room showing the live feed of what is just twenty feet away from us. The final station where our dishes get the last touches of our chef before being brought in to us. This addition to the room made the experience even more spectacular. We could see every bubble of foam being added to dishes. Leaves that one might suspect to be only garnish were artfully plated and then explained. The chef infused his global style with the Mexican standards. We started with tuna, fresh caught, and wrapped in a native leaf vs seaweed. Our dishes made use of native baby corn in our second course and ran throughout the meal all the way to dessert. The chef came in and explained each course and the sommelier plied us with the knowledge of each wine he paired with each course. This was an enriching evening on many levels. Dessert was constructed in front of us, with flair and orchestration. Chef had an assistant on hand as he placed ingredients from individual bowls on to a marble slab. The colors, flavors, textures and presentation all took my breath away.
Finding it difficult to inhale too deeply after such a wonderful meal, I vowed to hit the resort gym the next morning. I made it to the front door of the spa, in which the gym is located, and managed to somehow talk myself into a spa treatment at The Retreat. I was good though. I scheduled it for after an hour of cardio. I think I earned that massage and boy was it good. I went for the signature massage and it worked wonders on every part of my body. This treatment was so good that I had to book another one for the following day. It was worth it, but now that I had digested last night’s dinner and was now in top cardio shape, plus relaxed, it was time to take on Tulum and the ruins that overlook this gorgeous stretch of the Caribbean Sea. The ruins did not disappoint. We grabbed a guide who took the time to point out details carved into the stones.
These are things that we would never have picked out on our own. The details, some of which were left open to interpretation, seem to represent Venus and femininity. The ruins hold secrets to what the Mayans believed were connection to fertility and birth. I love gaining insight into the past. The one thing I was left wondering was how they stayed out of the sun. It was a scorcher and I was ready to head out of the ruins and hit up a few cenotes. These are the underground rivers formed by natural pits, or sinkhole, resulting from the collapse of limestone that exposes the fresh groundwater underneath. A I swam in the clear blue fresh water, all I could utter to myself were the words cool and refreshing. A swim in these waters were just what the doctor ordered.
Refreshed and ready to call it a day, we returned to Royal Hideaway Playacar. The comforts of our room called out to us even more loudly today. We love Mexico and exploring, but there is something to be said for the luxuries of a resort like this. Thankfully we have a few more days to do nothing more than relax, and maybe grab a bike and ride the short ten minutes to Playa del Carmen and get some shopping in. Everyone back home is going to want a piece of paradise, but there’s nothing like actually being here to satisfy your soul and complete the understanding of this adults only, all-inclusive experience. When you come, remember to book your spa treatment and make reservations for the Chef ’s Table. Vacationing here without experiencing these treats would seem incomplete. Treat yourself and throw in a tequila tasting for good measure.
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