Footwear Insight

TRENDS, PERSPECTIVE & ANALYSIS • JULY 2020 • A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION

FOOTWEAR INSIGHT SPORTS EDITION ®

RUNNING WILD Asics Noosa Tri

SPRING STYLES BRING THE HEAT HOW 2020’S SUMMER LIKE NO OTHER WILL SHAPE THE RETAIL WORLD DO-IT-ALL OUTDOOR LOOKS FOOTWEARINSIGHT.COM

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TRENDS, PERSPECTIVE & ANALYSIS • JULY 2020

footwearinsight.com Editorial Director Cara Griffin Editor-in-Chief Jennifer Ernst Beaudry Senior Editor Bob McGee Contributors Nancy Ruhling Suzanne Blecher Publisher Jeff Nott jnott@formula4media.com 516-305-4711 Advertising Katie O’Donohue kodonohue@formula4media.com 828-244-3043 Sam Selvaggio sselvaggio@formula4media.com 212-398-5021 Ron Stern rstern@formula4media.com 201-774-2432 Art Director Francis Klaess Production / Digital Brandon Christie 516-305-4710 bchristie@formula4media.com

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06 THE FOOTWEAR EYE Oboz looks ahead; MICAM cancels Vegas show; retailers sound off; plus news from around the industry.

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Team Insight

SUMMER LIKE NO OTHER

Team Insight Extra

The Opportunities and Challenges of the Season.

Textile Insight Textile Insight Extra Trend Insight

20

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SPRING AWAKENING

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Bringing back the sun with spring ’21 running shoes that go the distance.

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The opinions expressed by authors and contributors to Footwear Insight are not necessarily those of the editors or publishers. Footwear Insight is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Articles appearing in Footwear Insight may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express permission of the publisher. Footwear Insight is published 10 times in 2020: Jan; Feb; Mar/Apr; May; Jun; Jul; Aug; Sep/Oct; Nov; Dec. Postmaster: Send address changes to Footwear Insight, P.O. Box 23-1318 Great Neck, NY 11023

24 ADVENTURE READY Consumers are looking to explore local trails and wilder spaces. These outdoor looks for spring are fit for the job.

30 TREND INSIGHT Consumers sound off on activity levels and purchasing decisions in the COVID era and beyond.

34 SIGN OF THE TIMES Numbers that tell the story on the active outdoor industry.

TIME OUT | JENNIFER ERNST BEAUDRY

Change Constant “The only constant is change” is an old phrase that seems especially resonant right now.

Every day since early March has seemed to bring with it developments that upend any plans made that day. As we hit the dog days of summer, it’s evident that this is a summer unlike any before it, across almost all fronts. The COVID19 pandemic continues to cast a long shadow, with trade shows cancelled, sports seasons in flux, and consumer behavior impacted.

Bob McGee writes about some of the wide-ranging implications of this summer like no other for the back to school season and beyond — you can find his story on page 10.

And we’ve been looking at the bright spots — maybe you have, too. The performance running category has seen a resurgence, with more and more Americans looking to the run as a critical element of their physical and mental health. Check out some of the most innovative at-once and spring ’21 styles on page 18. (And get some insight into what consumers are thinking about staying active — and what they’re buying in support — on page 30.)

All activities that give people a welcome dose of the outdoors have seen similar new infusions of interest. On page 24, we round up some of spring ’21’s most rugged and versatile adventure-ready styles.

But while we’re looking ahead, summer is unfolding around us, sure to bring new challenges — but new opportunities, too. We’d love to know how you’re tackling the former — and we’d especially love to know which of the latter you’re pursuing as well. Drop us a line: We can’t wait to hear what you’re seeing.

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THE FOOTWEAR EYE EXECUTIVE INSIGHT

Oboz Looks Ahead Armed with new styles and a new brand mission statement, Oboz is moving forward.

O

boz president Amy Beck didn’t end her first year on the job the way she expected.

Elevated to the top post at Oboz and as president of North America at parent company Kathmandu in April of 2019, Beck, like most company heads, was thrown into a new reality after the global COVID-19 pandemic and resultant shutdowns completely altered the retail landscape. And that, she said, has meant reassessing everything.

“We’re just weeks into people opening back up, and we still don’t know if the decisions we made are good or not,” she said.

“We have to reset what success looks like.”

As the crisis began to unfold stateside in March, Beck said Oboz initially froze shipments, then started reaching out to figure out what shops needed. And there

6 • Footwear Insight ~ July 2020

was no one-size-fits-all response, she said.

“Some stores have cash, and they need support with inventory; some stores had no resources. We had to do some soul searching there to make sure we’re supporting the retailers and partnerships we’ve built.” Also critical was reaching out to Oboz’ manufacturing partners to figure out what materials had been bought, what was in production and what changes needed to be made.

“And at the end of the day, everyone had to manage cash flow, and there’s no one that was untouched by that,” she said.

Being owned by New Zealand-based retailer Kathmandu gave the firm an advantage, she said. Not only did it give the team the knowledge that they had an outlet for product that no longer could go to retail partners, Beck said the parent company gave them unique insights into the way the challenges were affecting their retail

accounts, and helped bolster the brand’s decision to hold to MAP policies to “protect the brand,” she said.

As part of her first year at Oboz, Beck had continued a brand identity reset that had begun under former head and founder John Connolly, and that new positioning — True to the Trail — has made a world of difference in helping the team stay focused on the future, she said.

“We landed on ‘True to the Trail’ as our brand foundation, and those values have been really great guiding lights for us,” Beck said. “It means true to our people, true to our community, true to your experiences and true to your fit.”

As a result, she said, Oboz felt confident in the spring and fall lines — “We knew it’s the right product for the right time” — and rather than trim the line back significantly, focused on retailer-friendly dating and programs to make it “easy to say yes” she said.

But with industry-wide forecasts for retail sales down between 25 and 40 percent, the brand dropped some extra colorways and is making cancellations on product that can be more easily brought back into the line if things change.

The ongoing protests over the death of George Floyd in Minneapolis in June that sparked a global reckoning over racism has started conversations at the brand as well. Beck says right now the brand is listening and learning before announcing any major actions, but that she signed the Outdoor CEO Diversity Pledge created by In Solidarity Project that calls for building a more racially inclusive industry and that plans are in the works for concrete actions.

“We’re still building what our social platform will look like for social justice and environmental elements,” she said. “It’s not optional any longer. And we still have some work to do there.”

But with as many challenge as she sees ahead, Beck said she’s optimistic that the outdoor industry has something to offer people now more than ever.

“People are using the outdoor as a respite, which any of us who have done that know how healing it is,” she said. “And this is an opportunity for more people to recognize how special that is.” — Jennifer Ernst Beaudry

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THE FOOTWEAR EYE

UPDATE

Trade Shows Canceled

C

iting safety concerns amid a resurgence of COVID-19 cases, the Atlanta Shoe Market and MICAM America and MAGIC trade shows have canceled their August and September physical trade shows. The Atlanta Shoe Market had been scheduled for Aug. 22-24 in Atlanta. The MAGIC shows, which include MICAM Americas, WWD Magic, Project and Sourcing @ Magic, had been planned for Sept. 30 to Oct. 2 at the Las Vegas Convention Center. (The show had already been postponed from its initial dates of Aug. 17 to 19.) Here, Kelly Helfman, president of WWDMagic, Project Womens, MICAM Americas and Sourcing at Magic, talks about next steps.

1. What spurred you to cancel the physical show?

Our fashion community is at the heart of every decision we make, so with this guiding us, the decision was twofold. There are continued concerns around health and safety, and we felt that with this unknown — while we wished and hoped it would have been in a better place — this was the right decision to make now in order to protect our community.

Additionally, since we have always planned to launch both a live and

digital event this fall, and our digital event launch is well underway with brand webinar trainings happening each week and retailers already registered for the event, we knew that we were still offering our community a great environment to conduct business, connect and learn, much like we do at our live events.

2. What will change, if anything, about the virtual event in light of the physical event being canceled?

While we had already planned on a robust lineup of educational content for the digital event, we will be shifting even more from our live event into our digital trade event, [with] more educational seminars and more retail resources. Expect this in addition to the already planned curated content — which is exclusively available to our digital marketplaces — shoppable trend report, themed editorial roundups, and product look books to name a few.

3. Are plans still in place for a physical show in early 2021?

Yes! We have a lot of great ideas to amplify the physical experience at our show in the new year, so when we debut both the physical and digital events together in early 2021 expect to see even greater enhancements.

—Jennifer Ernst Beaudry

BROOKS

Franchise Model Brooks Glycerin 19

S

eattle-based Brooks Running wants to keep it simple.

That’s the reason, the brand says, for a spring ’21 move to bring neutral and support shoes with the same cushioning profiles into the same shoe families. Both retailers and runners had difficulty parsing the differences between models like the Glycerin and Transcend, the brand said, which offered similar rides and cushioning and only varied in whether they were neutral or support. Going forward, the brand will classify shoes by the ground-feel experience — Float (what Brooks calls more cushioned styles) and Feel (the brand’s term for lighter-weight shoes with less between the ground and the runner) — and then allow runners to select neutral or support versions. The Launch and Glycerin franchises will be the first “super franchises” to debut. For spring, the Transcend shoe will be renamed Glycerin GTS 19 and will sit alongside the Glycerin 19, and the Ravenna model will be renamed the Launch GTS 8, sitting alongside the Launch 8. (The Transcend and Ravenna names will be retired.)

To designate support shoes, Brooks shoes will use the GTS acronym (formerly for “Go-To Shoe”) that the brand has long appended to its Adrenaline support shoe; now, it says, GTS will stand for “Go-To Support.” Brooks says the move will allow the firm to concentrate its marketing dollars on fewer models, and drive brand equity in-store. —Jennifer Ernst Beaudry

since 1996

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July 2020 ~ Footwear Insight • 7

THE FOOTWEAR EYE SHOP TALK

Takeaways from the National Retail Federation Series on Leadership

T Hal Lawton Tractor Supply Co.

he ability to share screen time with industry leaders for candid conversation about corporate decision-making is as easy as a click on a Zoom link. For example, National Retail Federation (NRF) president and CEO Matthew Shay is hosting weekly online sitdowns with top execs at major corporations focused on the topic of leadership during COVID-19.

Footwear Insight caught four recent episodes of the ongoing NRF series that featured Marvin Ellison, Lowe’s; Brian Cornell, Target; Hal Lawton, Tractor Supply; and Chris Nassetta, Hilton.

Here’s an edited version of what they had to say about challenges faced in the early days of the pandemic, customer trends and changes made with an eye on the future.

Hal Lawton, president & CEO, Tractor Supply Co 37,000 employees with stores in 49 states generating $9B in revenue.

On Consumer Behavior adopted during COVID that will stick:

Brian Cornell Target

Chris Nassetta Hilton

“Radical adoption of technology; expectation of wider fulfillment options; leveled-up customer service and contactless payment methods are becoming the norm.”

On Investments: Gave appreciation bonuses, raised minimum wage, hired new employees, and made a $50M investment in Q2 to stay ahead of the curve with services designed for COVID landscape. Also created an ad campaign with national reach to attract new customers.

On the “out here” lifestyle trend: Lawton describes 2020 as the “year of the backyard” based on a flourishing “out here” consumer lifestyle trend. This translates to individuals in rural communities living on 10 acres of land and a couple horses, as well as suburbanites building chicken coops and raised bed sustainable gardens, who collectively now want to be “active while staying in the neighborhood.”

“That’s were America is right now, and that’s going to stay in the absence of a vaccine,” said Lawton.

Brian Cornell, board chairman & CEO, Target: 1900 stores 35,000 employees and $80B in sales.

On Performance: The pandemic has been like “a stress test

Marvin Ellison Lowe’s

for digital demand, with decades of change condensed into four months,” said Cornell. “Q1 digital business was up 141 percent and digital business has continued to surge. Same-day fulfillment grew by 300 percent.”

8 • Footwear Insight ~ July 2020

On Consumer Behavior that will stick: “Millions of consumers have learned how to shop online and are now hooked on the convenience of placing an order and picking it up. Greater focus on safety; continued focus on value and trust in the vendor.”

On Looking Ahead: “In a recent Deloitte survey of CEOs, half of respondents said business would be back on track by Jan 2021, while the other half believed it would take until June 2021 to be back to pre-pandemic levels.”

Chris Nassetta, president and CEO, Hilton M hotel rooms globally and 6100 properties, celebrated its centennial in 2019.

On Recovery: “Q2 revenue declined 80 to 90 percent. Even in

the Great Recession, it only declined 20 percent. Business is slowly ticking up. The early stage recovery is in leisure travel.

People are going nuts staying home; they’re saying ‘let me out of the basement.’ Business travel will take longer to return, likely taking three years to get back to pre-pandemic levels.”

Nassetta expects there will be a “snap back” to business in the fall and a slow dig out from there.

On Investment: Hilton made significant investment in “Clean Stay” — a partnership with the Mayo Clinic and Lysol to establish hospital cleanliness standards at Hilton properties.

Tech investments also focus on cleanliness and built upon Hilton’s current “contactless entry” feature using an iPhone.

Excess room clutter (pens, pads, etc.) is being eliminated with future tech developed to be “touchless” in nature.

On the Future of Business Gatherings: “It will be a hybrid. You need face-to-face, but these in-person events will be smaller gatherings, and as a result you’ll have gatherings that are part physical and part digital. There will be investment in technology to meet both needs.”

Marvin Ellison, CEO and president, Lowe’s 2000+ locations in the U.S. and Canada representing 207.8 million square feet of retail selling space and $72B in sales.

On Employee Support: Made a $450M commitment that included

a chunk dedicated to special paid bonuses in March and May with another round of bonuses upcoming; increased hourly wages, mandated free tele-health medical benefits to hourly wage associates.

On Talking Less, Doing More: “That has been part of my policy since I stepped into my current post,” said Ellison. In just two years under Ellison’s watch, Lowe’s has undergone a “cultural transformation,” creating a significantly more diversified upper management team. “The talent is out there,” stated Ellison. “I would direct leaders to have conversations about racial injustice, force tough conversations, listen and learn. Sometimes you have to talk less and do more.”

On e-commerce: Overhauled a decades-old online platform, and accelerated 2021 strategies to achieve new level of “seamless and friendly” customer experience with features including curbside pick up, same-day and next-day service, in-store lockers and an updated mobile app, resulting in 80 percent growth in e-commerce, which previously accounted for less than 10 percent of sales.” l

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THE FOOTWEAR EYE SOCK LAUNCH

Darn Tough Redesigns Run Sock Line

I

n Spring 2021, performance sock brand Darn Tough Vermont will release an entirely redesigned Run collection. In development for two years, the new Run socks have been reconstructed with technical features that include targeted ultra-lightweight cushioning in the footbed and toe for impact protection, reinforced high-wear zones for Reconstructed increased durability over with technical long distances, a highfeatures that performance upper with include targeted multi-zoned mesh for ven- ultra-lightweight tilation and comfort, and a cushioning in the supportive performance fit footbed and toe for through the arch to reduce impact protection. fatigue.

“As running gains momentum during these unprecedented times, the launch of our new collection is perfectly synced to give these athletes both the performance and style they’re seeking” says Lyn Feinson, Darn Tough Vermont VP of product design and development. “We worked closely with a core group of professional runners to develop our most technical Merino sock yet.” l

INSOLE LAUNCH

Cadence Responds to Demand with Low Arch Insole

C

adence insoles, which makes replacement insoles designed to provide contoured support with shock-absorbing comfort in the heel and forefoot, is releasing a new insole designed with the run specialty market in mind

this August.

The new $49.95 Low Arch insole from Cadence is a thin insole with a low arch profile, mild to moderate support, and the brand’s trademark comfort in the heel and forefoot. The Low Arch insoles were designed in response to requests from run specialty store owners asking for a more supportive low arch insole replacement alternative, said Cadence founder and owner (and physical therapist) John Hinds. The insole, 5 mm heel to toe, has a nylon orthotic with a cutout in the heel for comfort, a full-length total contact high-rebound polyurethane foam for shock-absorption and an anti-microbial low friction CoolMax top cover for moisture control and odor protection. l

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July 2020 ~ Footwear Insight • 9

SUMMER LIKE NO OTHER: WHAT THE SEASON SETS UP FOR 2020.

SUMMER LIKE NO OTHER

By Bob McGee. July 4 didn’t bring the usual array of community events and fireworks extravaganzas to the U.S. this year, but even as COVID concerns played out across the country, the active lifestyle industry saw some bright spots.

A much-needed respite from the pandemic has yet to arrive. In early July, cases were on the rise in 32 of 50 states, endangering brick-and-mortar re-openings in many locales and igniting the likelihood of more “stay at home” orders from San Diego to Sanibel Island. Pro and collegiate sport seasons, slated to start anew in August, were facing their own COVID-19 challenges, not to mention budget constraints and the eerie reality of playing before empty stands. And the possibility of a “real” back-to-school season for the nation’s schoolchildren and collegians was under debate, casting a shadow over the annual ritual of buying new kicks, gear and apparel. But as individuals and families continue to seek out enjoyment, sales of running footwear and camping and outdoor gear have surged, bringing new life to formerly challenged categories and leading to runs on athletic items and outdoor rec gear. Welcome to 2020’s Summer Like No Other.

Continued on next page

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July 2020 ~ Footwear Insight • 11

SUMMER LIKE NO OTHER

WITH MORE AMERICANS LOOKING TO ADOPT HEALTHIER LIFESTYLES DURING AND POSTCOVID-19, RUNNING MAY END UP BEING THE BIGGEST WINNER AMONG FOOTWEAR SEGMENTS.

These developments have left footwear manufactur-

& Co. says brands that have managed to engage

ers and retailers in a quandary, looking to adopt strategies that will help them hold onto sales, margins, customers and employees. With the nation’s second-quarter GDP projected to be down sharply, Yardeni Research recently predicted real GDP in the U.S. won’t recover to 2019’s fourth-quarter record high until late 2022. Retailers have begun deploying tactics to purge excess Spring 2020 inventories, largely directly through their own outlets and online for large athletic brands, and are looking to vendors to infuse steady “freshness” into their assortments to entice shoppers as the industry rides out 2020 on likely lower unit volumes. From a marketing perspective, cancellations (the Boston and New York City Marathons) and postponements (the Tokyo Olympics and Euro 2020 soccer tournament have both rescheduled to 2021) are giving brands opportunities to adjust their budgets, preserve capital and redeploy planned marketing funds to other initiatives.

In reiterating six hypotheses on the “New Normal” post COVID-19 first suggested in April, McKinsey

consumers during the pandemic crisis and offered outstanding customer service will see loyalty gains going forward. The research house suggests there might be increased price polarization in the months ahead that will shift consumer demand to lower pricepoints due to economic downturn, the economic inequality explosion, lower disposable incomes and higher unemployment. NPD analyst Matt Powell, however, saw a countertrend in footwear in the AprilJune timeframe, fueled by performance running gains from Brooks, Hoka One One and On. With more Americans looking to adopt healthier lifestyles during and post-COVID-19, running may end up being the biggest winner among footwear segments, Powell suggests, adding the activity benefits from the ongoing “social distancing” movement. The segment, which has been in decline since 2013, always rises during recessionary times, he noted.

At this juncture, it’s unclear how footwear makers may try and capitalize on other consumer trends that have emerged during the coronavirus pandemic.

Besides running, there is more U.S. consumer

12 • Footwear Insight ~ July 2020

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SUMMER LIKE NO OTHER

FOR RETAILERS, CONTACTLESS PAYMENT OPTIONS, CURBSIDE PICKUP AVAILABILITY AND DIGITAL ARE GROWING IN IMPORTANCE.

interest today in RVing, camping, at-home fitness

dollars away from “risky” purchases related to

and family biking. Kent, WA-based outdoor co-op REI, which had doors open for limited in-store shopping and zero-contact curbside pickup by early July, says its road running shoe sales were up 1.5x year-over-year with yoga product purchases (2x) and adult and kids bikes, accessories and bike trainers (4x) posting higher increases. The cooperative also reported higher traffic to its online “Expert Advice” articles in recent months, with double or triple volume for some camping and bike pieces.

Meanwhile, Powell says, work footwear sales has performed relatively steady during the pandemic, but he doesn’t expect baseball and training footwear “to come back in a strong way” and hiking/trekking footwear “is moving in the right direction but still underwater.”

Deloitte recently predicted that a second outbreak of the virus this fall, as some epidemiologists are projecting, will slash consumer spending further and might fuel consumer distrust. Already the research firm thinks U.S. consumers are locked into a mindset that has them shifting any discretionary

entertainment, food services and accommodations to “consumption that can take place in a socially distanced way.”

In Europe, meanwhile, 30 percent of surveyed consumers told McKinsey that they were reluctant to return to brick-and-mortar stores and gyms for at least four months.

There were 15 bankruptcies during the first half of 2020, including five (Aldo, Modell’s, Stage Stores, JC Penney and Neiman Marcus) that sell shoes.

Coresight Research predicts a total of 20,000 to 25,000 U.S. store closures this year, up from 9,000 in 2019, as more retailers rationalize their fleets and shed underperforming doors, and as many as one-third of the nation’s malls face shuttering forever. Powell takes these likely retail developments in the months ahead in stride, suggesting, “It will make us a healthier industry as we come out of this [pandemic].”

Surviving brick-and-mortar retailers are faced with new realities that look to continue. Beyond required in-store protections for customers,

14 • Footwear Insight ~ July 2020

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FI NSRA

National Shoe Retailers Association America’s Largest Organization Representing Independent Footwear Retailers — since 1912

NSRA membership offers these benefits, and more: Sales & Management Training With the re-opening of stores, it’s a perfect time to revitalize sales and leadership in your business! John Lees offers complimentary and confidential personalized training that is tailored to your staff and store. It’s a specially curated program exclusively for NSRA retail members!

Shoe Retailing Today A bi-monthly industry publication featuring topics such as: • Marketing • Retail Store Training • Inventory Management • Best Practices/Business Management • NextGen/Succession Planning, and more!

NSRA OnLine Bi-weekly electronic newsletter featuring: • Industry News • Educational Articles • NSRA Member Updates • Best Practices • Vendor Product Showcases, and more!

NSRA’s Annual Leadership Conference Discover ways to reinvigorate your business and connect with industry leaders to discuss challenges and opportunities. Learn from nationally recognized experts who explore retail business topics and provide leadership insights. NSRA’s conference is the largest of its kind, giving attendees a unique opportunity to connect and network with top independent retailers and the vendors who support them. Join us in November 2021 in Tucson, Arizona at the Hilton El Conquistador.

Financial Services & Savings Opportunities Membership gives you access to programs which directly affect the bottom line. Cost-saving member benefits include: • FedEx Shipping through PartnerShip • Bank of America Merchant Services Credit/Debit Card Processing • Save up to 30% on Constant Contact email marketing

E-blast Updates NSRA is dedicated to supporting its members by sharing timely information as it becomes available. We continuously monitor and gather resources related to small business and the current climate, and send out a weekly update in a concise, easy-to-follow format.

Retail Education Webinars Join industry professionals and NSRA in live education seminars via the internet, discussing topics that will help energize your business: • Sales Training Retail Education • Retail Finance • Marketing • Succession Planning, and more!

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RyTech Online Marketing Services A full service digital marketing firm, RyTech will provide a complimentary website assessment and an exclusive 10% discount on online marketing services for NSRA members.

Trends Sharing Pivotal Research Group offers monthly and quarterly reports of activity in the independent footwear retailing, including sales, margins, inventory, and brand and category performance. Results are anonymous, and are extracted from quick surveys completed by participating retailers.

Retail Education Seminars NSRA’s educational programs are held in conjunction with premier shoe shows, and are complimentary to show attendees. The seminars feature experts who offer quality business education to independent retailers on relative industry topics.

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A SUMMER LIKE NO OTHER

BESIDES RUNNING, THERE IS MORE U.S. CONSUMER INTEREST TODAY IN RVING, CAMPING, AT-HOME FITNESS AND FAMILY BIKING.

including shields to protect cashiers and greater

Foot Locker Chairman and CEO Dick Johnson said

visualized cleaning frequency, contactless payment options, curbside pickup availability and digital are growing in importance. Global sporting goods retailer Decathlon, for example, recently launched a mobile checkout solution in conjunction with retail-tech startup MishiPay where customers scan a code on the app to pay for selected products, simultaneously disabling any RFID security tags on the items, and leave the store without touching anything expect the purchased products. Caleres executives recently disclosed that its Famous Footwear chain would offer a curbside pick-up option to customers at 500 locations by June 30. And Dick’s Sporting Goods, which recently launched drive-up service for its customers and fulfills more than 40 percent of online orders from stores, said the feature’s adoption by customers has already surpassed its ‘Buy Online, Pick-up In Store’ (BOPIS) option.

“I think we learned a lot throughout April to make us a better omnichannel retailer, and clearly as we think about social distancing and how we utilize our digital presence to launch product, et cetera,”

in late May. “We expect our digital penetration to continue to expand.”

Given the recent acceleration in digital, the NPD’s Powell now predicts the athletic footwear sector’s e-commerce penetration will reach 50 percent of total sales from a current 30 percent over the next two to two-and-a-half years, ahead of a prior projection of five years. The trend could prompt some smaller footwear retailers without online scale to consider joining a marketplace to obtain more exposure on the digital frontier.

With 2020’s Summer Like No Other headed into the dog days of August, The NPD Group thinks brands and retailers alike needs to consider 10 actions as they work harder to “Embrace Change.” Beyond preserving liquidity, maintaining brand equity and the aforementioned embracing change, the list includes brand purpose, empathy, e-commerce, rationalizing the store base, remembering the customer is always in charge, marking down adverse products and remembering this Summer Like No Other is a “time for transformation.” n

16 • Footwear Insight ~ July 2020

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RUNNING FALL 2020

ALL-ROUNDERS Offering the best of all worlds to serious runners.

Eye-catching colors, sleek uppers and versatile, performance-enhancing midsole technologies go hand in hand in fall’s selection of performance running styles. Lighter, brighter and more advanced than ever, these sneakers have staying power.

It’s all about ease in the New Balance Fresh Foam Beacon v3 ($120). The versatile style is designed to feel extra cushiony on foot, while rubber pods give the shoe durability on all terrains.

The Cloudflyer by Swiss brand On Running offers serious support, but the fully cushioned style has design smarts to spare. Engineered to work with any kind of runner, the $160 Cloudflyer complements each wearer’s individual gait.

18 • Footwear Insight ~ July 2020

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Hoka One One ’s $160 Stinson ATR 6 is

designed for versatile comfort both on the road and off the grid. The lightweight, all-terrain shoe has the highest volume stack height in the Hoka lineup and utilizes recycled Unifi Repreve yarn in the upper.

Skechers brings Goodyear’s performance

rubber to Edward Cheserek’s official training shoe, the $125 GORun Ride 8 Hyper. The brand’s lightweight Hyper Burst cushioning, a 6mm drop and a form-fitting stretch knit upper make this a go-to choice for fit and traction.

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July 2020 ~ Footwear Insight • 19

RUNNING SPRING 2021

SPRING AWAKENING Bringing back the sun with run shoes that go the distance.

Whether it’s tackling the neighborhood on foot or running sprints on the track, more and more consumers are lacing up for a run. Longtime runners or new recruits are sure to find what they’re looking for in spring ’21’s crop of shoes to watch.

The latest iteration of Saucony’s Guide franchise is its most responsive yet. The $130 Guide 14 uses the brand’s springier new PWRRUN foam, and the 3D engineered fascia supports on the upper and streamlined fit make for a smooth and effortless ride.

361’s newest neutral trainer marries a

knit upper to a flexible construction that offers the brand’s proprietary fit. The $110 Fierce offers a soft ride with a wider base for stability and support.

20 • Footwear Insight ~ July 2020

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RUNNING SPRING 2021 The versatile Dynamic Pro sneaker from women’s brand Ryka does it all: Designed for cross-training, this cushioned $80 style can take the wearer through a full day of workouts and training runs and still have style to spare for around town wear.

Italian craftsmanship meets technical run know-how in the Diadora Mythos Blushield Volo. The $135 style has a 10mm drop and neutral construction for everyday running, but the old school chunky shoe styling seals the deal for everyday wear.

22 • Footwear Insight ~ July 2020

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RIA KICK ON DEMAND RIA KICK ON DEMAND

Cadence Insoles: Support Made Comfortable Cadence insoles were designed by a physical therapist with more than 20 years of experience in orthopedic and sports rehabilitation with a focus on the feet and knees using feedback and successful outcomes from patients with various pain syndromes of the lower extremity.

Today Cadence insoles are used and abused by recreational and competitive ultra runners, marathoners, I-run-so-I-can-eatpie-runners, hikers, walkers, among many others.

Cadence is retail and customer friendly and has accessible and responsive customer service. We guarantee our product, have multiple easy-order options, offer same-day shipping, free THE INSOLE CONNECTS YOUR FOOT TO THE SHOE. LIKE A BUCKET seat for your feet, Cadence insoles provide a unique combination of contoured support with enhanced shock-absorbing comfort in the heel and forefoot. And with six models to choose from, Cadence insoles are for work, play, and everything in between.

As their tag line says, Cadence are “Support Made Comfortable”.

replacements, free pairs for referral sources and staff, product exclusivity, no minimums, no contracts, no-fee drop shipping, and more.

Cadence is proud to provide a #1 selling insole for many.

Contact us for complimentary samples.

l

See www.cadenceinsoles.com for more information.

HeiQ XReflex: Breathable Heat Retention HeiQ XReflex is warmth without bulk: Support Made Comfortable • Less bulk, same warmth, maximum breathability • Saves up to 50% of insulation material to create thinner, lighter Cadence insoles provide a unique combination of contoured and more packable garments support with enhanced shock absorbing comfort in the heel • Less Cadence insulationare reduces theMade environmental footprint of the and forefoot.

“Support Comfortable”. garment • Maintains exceptional efficiency and durability, more than 20 washings • Materials are made from recycled sources and are recyclable HeiQ XReflex has a new range of innovative fabrics and insulation. You can choose HeiQ XReflex with one layer of XReflex on the inside of fabric face to save up to 25% bulk. For THE HUMAN BODY LOSES HEAT THROUGH EVAPORATION, maximum savings of up to 50% bulk reduction, choose HeiQ convection, conduction and mostly through radiation. Thermal With 6 models to choose from, Cadence are for work, XReflex with two layers of XReflex – one on the inner side of play and everything in between. radiation is heat loss in the form of Far Infrared Rays. The rate face fabric and one on the outer side of lining fabric. Up to 50% of emittance varies directly with the difference between the skin Contactreduced us for complimentary samples. bulk makes HeiQ XReflex the perfect solution for temperature and the average environmental temperature. See cadenceinsoles.com for more information. outdoor and sports jackets, pants and skirts, lifestyle jackets To control heat loss through radiation, humans need to protect and coats as well as sleeping bags. l themselves from the surrounding environment with insulated clothing. Typical insulation uses down feathers, synthetic padding For more information, go to heiq.com. insulation or fleece. More mass of insulation gives more warmth, footwearinsight.com July 2020 ~ Footwear Insight You can visit us at Performance Days Munich, May 8-9, 2019 in but comes with a higher rate of bulk. With HeiQ XReflex you can booth E05.

Also join our workshops in room P07. reduce the bulk while keeping the warmth.

28 • Footwear Insight ~ July 2020

• 23

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OUTDOOR SPRING 2021

ADVENTURE READY Ready to tackle the outdoors.

As Americans increasingly explore local neighborhood trails, parks and wild spaces, they’re looking for versatile, rugged styles that hold up to whatever adventures they find. These spring ’21 styles fit the bill.

Dynafit’s featherweight DNA trail runner ($160) is a trail racing shoe built for mid to long distances. The 240-gram style is designed for fast, technical trails with challenging downhill sections. It has a 6mm drop and an alpine rocker profile for a smooth stride from heel to toe.

Lightweight, comfortable, casual and ecofriendly, Merrell ’s $85 Cloud Knit style features a FloatEco Foam midsole, a 30 percent recycled knit upper, 30 percent recycled rubber outsole and 100 percent recycled laces.

24 • Footwear Insight ~ July 2020

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Built for the hot and rocky conditions found along the beginning section of the 2,650 mile long Pacific Crest Trail, the $140 Trail 2650 Campo from Danner is technical and stylish.

It features a Vibram 460 outsole with Megagrip, and its linerless design is gaiter-compatible, with drainage ports in its EVA midsole.

The updated version of Salomon ’s go-to trail shoe, the Sense Ride 4 ($120) offers even more durability and breathability with a new upper featuring anti-debris mesh. An Optivibe midsole provides shock absorption and vibration dampening without affecting rebound, and a decoupled rock plate delivers protection.

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July 2020 ~ Footwear Insight • 25

OUTDOOR SPRING 2021

Timberland’s $100 Solar Wave style for men and women features a GreenStride outsole, which uses renewables like sugar cane and natural rubber for a resilient, cushioned ride.

Tecnica’s $140 Magma S is an all-mountain style designed for running, hiking or trekking.

Bridging the gap between a trail running shoe and a hiking shoe, it aims to deliver protection, stability and grip in a lightweight package with a ventilated 3D mesh upper, breathable mesh liner, anatomical, pre-shaped EVA footbed and a Vibram Megagrip Litebase XO Shield outsole.

26 • Footwear Insight ~ July 2020

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OUTDOOR SPRING 2021

Combining a modern fit system with Salewa’s new Ankle Protection System (APS), the new Dropline Mid ($180) offers stability and precision fit, making it a good choice for moving quickly in the mountains. APS is a thermoformed, high rebound material that offers extra ankle lateral-support, especially while going downhill.

The new Taurus Pro GTX Mid ($180) is a split leather and fabric trail shoe from Lowa that is designed for day hiking and multi-sport activities. Versatile and lightweight, it features injected midsole technology for support and comfort and Gore-Tex construction for waterproof/breathable protection.

Styles in the new Sypes collection from Oboz are built to perform on the trail with mountain town style. Featuring the brand’s new Bend outsole with 5mm deep lugs, each Sypes style is specifically tuned for gender, support, and rebound, delivering comfort and versatility. Available in mid (below) and low leather waterproof styles, prices in the collection range from $135 to $165.

Whether on the water or on the trail, Ecco’s new fully adjustable $100 X-Trinsic sandal is an all-day option. With a grippy rubber outsole and Phorene footbed, the sporty style is at home wherever it goes. It uses Ecco’s FluidForm construction and has a grippy rubber outsole for good measure.

28 • Footwear Insight ~ July 2020

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TRENDINSIGHT

We surveyed 403 consumers. Here is what they told us.

THE SURVEY:

Activity Levels and Purchasing Decisions in the COVID Era and Beyond

What sport or individual fitness activities have you been participating in over the past few months?

69%

16%

35%

36%

Yoga

Cycling

75%

71%

19%

6% Tennis

As summer heats up, consumers are getting out and getting active — and they’re looking to stay that way. Mesh01 surveyed 403 active U.S. consumers ages 18 to 60 to see how the COVID19 crisis had affected their workout habits. Of respondents, 48 percent have increased their activity levels during the pandemic, and more than half said they planned to continue their elevated levels after the crisis passes. In what’s good news for shops, 69 percent of shoppers said they planned to make footwear purchases to support their new endeavors. n CARPE TRENDEM

Other At-home subscription Trail running, based strength training, pickleball, rowing, training basketball, fishing

Fitness Walking

Running

At-home traditional workouts

Did your participation in those activities change because of the health crisis?

48%

40% 12%

Decreased

Increased

Do you believe your participation in those activities will continue at the same level after health crisis?

Remained the same

52%

35%

SEIZE THE TREND!

Trend Insight Consumer is a feature within Textile Insight that delivers research conducted on the MESH01 Platform. MESH01 collects data from a select panel of sports enthusiasts. For information on the Mesh1 Platform, contact Brian Bednarek at 603-7660957 or brian.bednarek@mesh01.com. For more information on Trend Insight Consumer and how your company can participate, contact Jeff Nott at 516-305-4711 or jnott@formula4media.com.

30 • Footwear Insight ~ July 2020

9%

4% I will increase my participation

I will decrease my participation

I will plan to continue with my current level

I did not change my level of participation as a result of the health crisis

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Have the changes in your workout routine been affected by the closing of the gyms or fitness studios during the crisis?

What percentage of your current workout wardrobe transitions easily from workout to streetwear?

32%

YES

30%

48%

22%

I DO NOT HAVE A GYM OR FITNESS STUDIO MEMBERSHIP

NO

If you have a gym or fitness studio membership, will you return once they can reopen?

YES

35%

52%

13%

MAYBE

NO

Have you assembled a shopping list to align with your changes in your sport or individual fitness activities?

28% 19% 13% 8%

less than 10%

10%-25%

76%-100%

Do you specifically seek out garments made with multifunctional fabrics to fit your active lifestyle needs?

YES

NO

14%

86%

44%

What catch-all term resonates the most when shopping for active apparel and footwear?

69% 1%

52%

51%-75%

26%-50%

Ultra

5%

33%

8%

7%

Sustainable Fashionable Technical

Performance Functional

38% 25% 15%

29%

Are there new terms that now resonate when shopping for active apparel and footwear?

19%

50% 34%

24%

I have no plans to buy anything new at this time.

I have I have already already purchased purchased online via an online through my e-commerce site local store

footwearinsight.com

I plan new equipment (bikes, weights, training)

I plan to buy new accessories (insoles, socks, headphones, hydration pack, etc.)

I plan to buy new apparel

I plan to buy new footwear

9% Safe

14% Anti-Viral

Protective

I have not heard of any new terms

Anti-microbial

July 2020 ~ Footwear Insight • 31

TRENDINSIGHT

We surveyed 403 consumers. Here is what they told us.

If you plan to purchase new footwear and apparel in the next month or two, what are your expectations about trying on footwear or apparel in the stores before you buy?

“I have worn out my shoes the past few months; I really need some support back on my feet. I plan to seek out sales in my local footwear stores and get what my feet feel best in. For apparel, I plan to order new running wear and gym clothes for when I go back to the gym. I can’t go in public with [the] rags I have now.” Female, 52 “Must be done in as socially distanced a manner as possible. [I] likely will not bother going in to shop in person at all.” Male, 26 “I’m expecting not to be able to try on sneakers or shoes or boots the way I used to before the health crisis.”

Female, 46 “I would like to be able to try on outside of the store to avoid close contact indoors.” Female, 35 “Safe, socially distanced options.”

Female, 34 “My expectations will be that stores would be on top of health regulations. I will continue to shop [as] normal, just with a bit more caution.” Female, 42 “I am not going to try anything on in stores. I am going to keep it in my house for two days and then I will try it on.” Female, 44 “Significant social distance and mask requirements, or I’ll take my chances purchasing online.” Female, 42 “I’d like to have the dressing room attendant clean the room before I go in and after I come out.” Female, 29 “I have had a hard time purchasing apparel due to the pandemic. No dressing rooms are open and trying shoes on in most stores isn’t available.

I hope in the next few months we will be able to open up dressing rooms and it will make purchasing easier, and also returns.” Female, 35 “I don’t plan to try anything on in store. I’ll purchase online and return or exchange if something doesn’t fit

32 • Footwear Insight ~ July 2020

correctly. As of right now, I’m trying my best to stay home as much as possible.” Female, 35 “I’m nervous to go shopping in stores — I have been using online vendors with good return policies so I can feel safe if I don’t like a product or it does not fit as expected.” Female, 32 “I typically know what I like. I’d like to try things on but if I can’t, I’ll adjust.” Male, 45 “I will rely on history of fit with shoe brands that I feel comfortable with, and purchase my normal size without trying on.” Male, 38 “When I need to buy these items, I prefer to try them on before purchasing. I will attempt to find a retailer that I am able to try the items before purchasing.” Female, 35 “Either order online, or in store with normal procedures.” Male, 31 “Footwear necessitates on-site trying, hence I haven’t been able to buy any since the coronavirus health crisis. I plan on changing this once the shops are open and I feel comfortable walking into stores and speaking to representatives.”

Male, 32 “I would like to be able to try footwear and apparel. If I can’t, being able to return items that don’t work is paramount.” Male, 42 “I expect to be able to try on footwear.

Most places here still have dressing rooms closed. I would expect to try clothes on at home but be able to return them if needed.” Male, 51 “I have no problem at all trying on footwear before I buy it. I won’t purchase otherwise.” Female, 33 “I do not plan to try it on. I will get what I think will fit, try on at home, and return it if it doesn’t work or fit.”

Male, 29 “I expect the stores to maintain a clean

and safe environment by sanitizing after each use. Also, possibly having an associate personally assist each customer to ensure the customer is not handling un-sanitized items.” Female, 45 “At this time, I don’t really know what to expect. If stores remain open, I would assume social distancing rules will be in effect. So I’ll just go in, try on the shoes to make sure they fit, then leave.”

Female, 32 “Hopefully they’ll let us try them on. It would be nice if a sanitizing spray was available for everyone to use before and after. No socks will be available to test with the shoes.” Female, 33 “Probably just go alone and take extra precautions when I return home.”

Male, 37 “I expect disposable socks to be more readily available.” Female, 27

“I want to be able to try on shoes physically. I want a salespersons input. I have been running a lot and know my shoes aren’t quite right and are old. I want in person recommendations for what will work. I am not sure what the safety precautions will look like which is kind of why I have put it off so far. FEMALE, 43 “I already have ‘go-to’ shoe brands and styles and just buy online. If I needed to try on, I expect I could go to a specialty store and adhere to mask and sanitizing protocols and try on shoes. Clothing I might be hesitant to try if I thought a store had high traffic.” MALE, 52

“I do plan on purchasing footwear itself in store because I need to feel the shoes on my feet. I would like to have zero assistance from associates to maintain as much space as possible.

And make Lysol wipes available. I will wear a mask.” Female, 39 “I am concerned about having to be out to buy shoes. I prefer to try shoes on before purchase, but realize that this method will involve more cautious steps. I have not been a fan of ordering shoes online in the past because my shoe size ranges anywhere from 7.5 to 8 or so depending on the brand or shoe style.” Female, 43 “I will do a lot less trying on in store, and [will] definitely be sure to wash or sanitize anything before use.” Female, 30 ‘I don’t expect to try it on. I would hope they would have some kind of disposable sleeve.” Male, 43 “I like to have a chair or bench available so I can sit and try on. I will otherwise shop as normal, just doing my best to keep distance between myself and others. I need and love shoes, and am all set to purchase,” Female, 30 “I understand that many establishments are not allowing items to be tried on. I will purchase and return if needed.” Female, 29 “I will likely stick with the same brand that I am currently using, therefore, I will not have a need to try them on.”

Male, 49

“I plan on trying them on but not running around the store.” FEMALE, 47 “I assume most places won’t have fitting rooms open for apparel, so I’m expecting to need to purchase items and return if I don’t like them. I think shoes will be a similar story. this is fine for me - but will probably result in less impulse purchasing on my part.

FEMALE, 25

“Less try on, easier return policy.” MALE, 30 “I’ll buy from those with free return policies or those that have forgiving return policies (100 miles, give it a sweat, etc.).”

FEMALE, 33

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“I will purchase them online and exchange if they don’t fit. Some stores have great exchange/return policies.”

Female, 50 “I hope all is [the] same since it doesn’t involve anything special to get a shoe and pay for it .” Male, 38 “I will most likely order online. If I try a new model, I will go to the store to try it first.” Female, 37 “I would expect one-on-one service by appointment,” Male, 33 “I’m honestly not sure what to think. I tried to purchase shorts online without trying on — they didn’t fit well. I was bummed. That was like a month ago and I’m still working on returning it.

The store is either closed or too busy to get into so it’s making me rethink it online shopping. I think I’ll wait til I can go in store and try on.” Female, 28 “I prefer to purchase online. However, if going in the store, I would expect it to be at 50 percent or less capacity, intense cleaning protocol and everyone wearing a mask and social distancing.” Female, 55 “I expect to leave with some new

shoes.” Female, 25 “I know what kinds of shoes I like, so I order straight from the manufacturer via their website.

Nothing will change for me.” Male, 27 “I will bring my own sanitizer and PPE.” Male, 57 “I am not overly concerned about trying on footwear or apparel. I am focused on staying healthy, washing my hands and improving my immune system.” Female, 32 “I don’t expect the fitting rooms will be open, so I plan to buy and return if it doesn’t fit. Female, 35 “I don’t think the experience should be much different than before the pandemic. In NY, where I live, masks are required in public and people are supposed to keep a distance of 6 feet from each other. I still expect a salesperson to get me different sizes and width and let me try them on to find the best size.” Male, 35 “I use sites that offer a fit guide and free return shipping so I don’t have to worry too much about sizing.” Male, 47

W E A R EF O R Y O U HERE LE INSO

p U ! g t n e o G r t s ’ S t e g L n i n n & Ru

S

“They need to be comfortable and cute to make me feel confident when working out!” Female, 19 “I anticipate restrictions on trying on clothing and shoes, but hope that we will be allowed to try on things with liners or some protection.” Female, 49 “I feel as long as people have socks on when trying on shoes, there should be no issues. Same thing with clothes: Keep your bra and underwear on and everyone will be fine, I’m very open.”

Female, 51 “I’m not sure what to expect. I usually like to get a good feel for new footwear and apparel, particularly athletic clothing and footwear that I will be doing a lot of activity in. I hope to still be able to try things on but know that stores are adopting strict cleaning protocols.” Male, 31 “I’m a little hesitant, but I need new shoes so I have to do what I have to do.” Female, 36 “I may just buy the same pair I currently have for ease.” Female, 44 “Anywhere that I’ve been has not allowed trying on clothes in store.

They have to be bought and returned. I imagine that will be the trend for a while. I plan on getting new shoes in the next coming weeks, and the local running store says they will allow customers to try on shoes as long as they have on socks and a mask. ([’m assuming the rest of their regular clothing on or else it might get kind of weird.)”

Male, 34 “Just to be open and allow in-person browsing.” Male, 42 “I expect to find comfortable apparel and pair of footwear. I am slightly concerned about shopping in stores due to the health crisis, so quick check out experience would be appreciated.” Female, 34 “I will expect to see how stores are maintaining health and safety standards with shoes and clothes that are able to be tried on by customers. The only apparel and footwear that I plan to buy will be brands that I know the size that will fit me so that I do not have to try on anything, and can wash and sanitize all items before I wear them.” Male, 33

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5/13/20 2:44•PM July 2020 ~ Footwear Insight 33

SPORTS FIGURES

Signs of the times: These numbers tell a story about what’s happening in the active market right now.

$992 The amount the parents of competitive athletes say they have saved on sports participation after shutdowns this year due to canceled travel, waived/ refunded fees and gear. Of those, two-thirds say they hope to reinvest the savings in the sport next year.

Source: TD Ameritrade Youth Athletics & Finances Survey

$1 BILLION

43%

33%

48%

Cycling sales in the U.S. for the month of April, the first month since tracking began that sales have hit $1 billion. According to NPD, typical April bike sales are between $550 and $575 million. Sales of children’s bikes sales jumped 107 percent for the month, and lower-priced adult leisure bike sales rose 203 percent.

The number of surveyed Americans over 13 who said they planned to do more outdoor activities — hiking, camping, visiting parks and water activities — as a result of the pandemic. The younger the respondent, the more likely they were to report planning an increase.

The percentage of travelers who have never camped before who are now interested in taking a camping trip. Camping is projected to account for 16 percent of all leisure travel post-COVID-19. The pre-pandemic share was 11 percent.

The top reason given? Wanting to “spend time outdoors after staying home for so long.”

The share of active adults who have increased their participation in sports activities as a result of the COVID-19 crisis. Of those adults, 87 percent said they planned to continue or increase their participation post-pandemic.

Source: The NPD Group

Source: CivicScience.com

Source: Kampgrounds of America’s 2020 North American Camping Report

4,515,000 34 • Footwear Insight ~ July 2020

Source: Trend Insight survey, see story on page 30 for more.

The number of children between the ages of 6 and 12 who play outdoor soccer in the U.S. Source: SFIA

footwearinsight.com

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TIME TO GET SMOOTH

CLIFTON EDGE

RUNNING’S SMOOTHEST RIDE.