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ALL THAI’D UP - NEW VENUE
All Thai’d Up
Where tradition, passion and originality converge in Columbus, Texas.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LYDIA FORD
Locals call her Ying, but the lady behind Columbus’ Thai food sensation, All Thai’d Up, is actually named Saowanee Sherwood. While her traditionally inspired dishes tell her story, it’s easy to tell that it’s also her contagious smile and warm presence that draw customers in over and over again.
Starting off in a simple food truck with dishes like Laab Moo, Pad Thai and Dragon Wings, Ying has now moved her establishment into the old Walnut Street gas station to allow for her to add more dishes, including the frequently requested traditional Thai dessert, Sweet Sticky Rice with Mango.
Learning to cook in her grandmother’s kitchen in Northern Thailand, Ying’s story is an inspiring one of someone who fought against all odds to follow her passion of sharing her food, her culture and a piece of herself with her community.
“My mom and my grandma, they taught me,” said Ying. “One of my first memories is of watching them cooking together and laughing with each other. Cooking is a happy time for me. I learned from them, and they taught me how to add in all the spices and they said that, ‘Anyone could follow a recipe. You learn to cook once you learn to taste how to season, that’s the secret.’ My in-home cooking lessons began when I was eight years old with a Thai style fried egg. I moved onto fried rice and I still continue through today to try and master curry.
In Thailand, Ying worked for seven years in a factory building wiring harnesses
26 | COLUMBUS, TEXAS
for Ford Motor Company, withstanding tedious nine-hour workdays, before leaving to sell street food in the market. After meeting her husband, Joe Sherwood, she found the idea of leaving her homeland for Texas challenging emotionally but the right decision. Together they made the move to offer their children a better education and more opportunities. Not speaking much English when she originally moved to Colorado County created an obstacle for Ying and left her feeling detached from her new community. “When I moved here, I had to work double,” shared Ying. “I felt I needed to work harder than people from here because I wanted to prove myself. I didn’t speak much English. I was scared to speak in long conversations. I used to say ‘yes, yes’ and that was all – that was ten years ago. Joe told me not to be scared and, if I didn’t know a word, to use my hands to explain myself and they would come to understand. After that, I spoke more and gained confidence. “I felt a need to show people that I was good at cooking and, when I am cooking, I am showing a piece of myself. That is who I am. Through food, we can learn each other’s cultures. When I started my food truck, I did it to share who I am. That’s my goal - to share the food and culture. That’s me!” Like any good chef, Ying is always searching for ways to perfect her craft while procuring only the freshest of ingredients. “I have a hard time getting what I need for my dishes,” added Ying. “I have to go to Houston every two weeks to get vegetables and spices. I can’t stock more than that – Thai food has to be fresh. I also grow herbs in my backyard at home; Thai basil, lemongrass, peppers, ginger … the basics that will grow here in this climate. “I practice a lot of dishes at home on my family. I start with the original taste
but then, when I start to cook, I want to make it in my style. I put myself in it and make it different. Original is simple and delicious, but you can add more if you want a different taste.” When I am cooking, I am “ Sharing her love through her food, Ying’s main goal at All Thai’d Up remains serving her community. “I have to say thank you. The people here are so nice and kind, I want to give back to them. That is why I originally showing a piece started All Thai’d Up. Everyone has been so nice to me of myself. that I wanted to do something for them. I like to see my That is who I am. customers enjoy my food. It makes me happy! I want to serve good food and offer good service and be a part of the community, right here.” All Thai’d Up is located at 302 Walnut Street in Columbus and is active on Facebook.
EDITOR’S NOTE: I met Ying years ago when our children attended St. Michael Catholic School together. I had already had a lifelong obsession with Thai food, particularly all dishes with red curry and spicy Tom Yum Soup. When she brought a dish to a school function, her Laab Moo, the flavors rolled around my mouth with familiar tastes of lemongrass and spice - unusual and irresistible at the same time. I knew I had to meet this lady and immediately felt an aura of peace around her even though, back then, I could tell she couldn’t say much in my native tongue, nor I hers. When we decided to create the Columbus, Texas magazine, I knew I needed to interview Ying. It is an honor to be able to invite you to try some of the best Thai food in the US and encourage you to meet my good friend through her cooking.
All Thai’d Up owners Ying and Joe Sherwood held a ribbon cutting and grand opening Sept. 15 at their new location at 302 Walnut Street in Columbus.
Photo courtesy of Ramona Ferguson, The Banner Press Newspaper.
