BIG BEND AND TEXAS MOUNTAINS TRAVEL GUIDE - 2024 by Digital Publisher

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Contents

BIG BEND & TEXAS MOUNTAINS TRAVEL GUIDE

8 Welcome to the Guide 10 Regional Map 12 Calendar of Events 14 Big Bend National Park 19 Guadalupe Mountains National Park 21 Texas State Parks City Listings TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL COMMUNITIES

25 34 37 40 43 48 52 56 59

Alpine El Paso Fort Davis Lajitas Marathon Marfa Presidio Terlingua/Study Butte Van Horn ROAD TRIP CITIES

63 64 69 71 72

Del Rio Fort Stockton Monahans Ozona Toyahvale/Balmorhea

Features 74 Rugged, Remote and Delectable

LEE HOY

80 Last Look BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 7

THANK YOU for picking up a copy of

the 2024 Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide! This is the 11th year our team has had the privilege of publishing this travel guide. It has been published each year since 1984, and approximately 85,000 copies are distributed. I’d like to thank Wendy Little and all the Texas Mountain Trail board members for their commitment to the travel guide and for the opportunity given to our team to publish it. I love to travel throughout the area, and even before I became the publisher I carried the publication with me for vital information and tips. It’s an incredible resource for anyone wishing to explore the region. For example, you’ll find information on various parks (state and national), as well as a city-by-city guide. In addition, we have a story featuring establishments in the Texas Mountain Trail region where you can dine and enjoy a beverage (see page 74). The allure of the Big Bend region is strong, and whether you’re a first-time or repeat visitor, I hope you have a wonderful time in this amazing part of Texas. We have many important contributors to the travel guide, and you can read about some of them on this page, but in particular I’d like to thank the guide’s designer, David Loyola, who I’ve worked with for a number of years, and for the second time on the travel guide. As far as my background, I wear a few hats. In addition to being the founder of Texas Music magazine, I also produce Viva Big Bend, which is held in Alpine, Fort Davis, Marathon, Marfa, Presidio and Terlingua. Our music festival is the last weekend of July each year. I hope you’ll find as much enjoyment in visiting this area as we do in promoting it. Thank you for reading the Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide, and happy trails! — Stewart Ramser, Publisher

A MESSAGE FROM

Texas Mountain Trail WELCOME TO the beautiful mountains of far West Texas! Enjoy our charming frontier communities, historic sites, cultural attractions and events, colorful sunsets and friendly people! Our Texas Mountain Trail nonprofit organization is proud to present the latest edition of the Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide with Ramser Media, and we hope it helps you get the most out of your stay. Since 2005, we’ve been reaching out to travelers with information about far West Texas, encouraging folks to spend their vacations in our mountains. Make your stay even better with the Texas Mountain Trail Passport. Visit your favorite places, get your passport stamped, and win prizes! On page 13 you will find a QR code where you can access the passport, or you can also go to MountainTrailAdventures.com to request or download one. Kick back, enjoy the quiet, seek your adventure, and have the time of your life! — Wendy Little

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David G. Loyola David G. Loyola is the designer for Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide. Born near El Paso, he now lives with his family in McAllen, where he works as a graphic designer specializing in editorial art direction and branding design. Along with his wife and two young children, he enjoys exploring this beautiful state.

Lee Hoy Lee Hoy is a professional photographer and the owner of Big Bend Birding & Photo Tours. His mission is to share the beauty of Big Bend National Park and the surrounding region with others. Lee first went to Big Bend in August 1989 and saw a Canyon Towhee, which ignited a passion for birding and bird photography.

Jeff Lynch Jeff Lynch is a landscape and nature photographer based in Fort Davis, Texas. Jeff’s first two books of Texas landscape photography were Hill Country Landscapes (2009) and Landscapes of the Texas Plains & Canyons (2010). In the last couple years, he’s published Landscapes of the Davis Mountains and Big Bend Landscapes.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: CISCO GAMEZ, COURTESY DAVID G. LOYOLA, COURTESY LEE HOY, COURTESY JEFF LYNCH, COURTESY WENDY LITTLE

Publisher’s Letter

Contributors

Map Must a n

180

Paso ElEl Paso

Red Bluff Reservoir

Kermit 302

CULBERSON CULBERSON 1111

MOUNTAIN STAND ARD TIME CENTRAL STANDARD TIME

REEVES REEVES

Sierra Blanca

n ra oG Ri

Balmorhea

Van Horn

Toyahvale

MEXICO MEXICO

Kent

Lake Toyah

302

158

Pecos River

329

Balmorhea Lake

385

rth

Garden City 349

329

137

163

Big Lake Lake 67

163

349

Bu ck ho rn D

Iraan 10

JEFF DAVIS DAVIS

158

Sterling City City

REAGAN REAGAN

Rankin

385

Co Rivncho er

STERLING STERLING

McCamey

Fort Stockton

163

MIDLAND MIDLAND UPTON UPTON

GLASSCOCK GLASSCOCK

Crane CRANE CRANE

Imperial Reservoir

Stanton

Odessa

Monahans

reek

Pecos

Midland

Penwell

115

WARD

158

WINKLER ECTOR WINKLER ECTOR

Wink

HUDSPETH HUDSPETH

302

Toyah C

349

LOVING LOVING

Socorro Soccorro San SanElizario Elizario

176

115 128

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GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK

MARTIN

raw

Dell City •

EL PASO PASO

Andrews

ANDREWS ANDREWS

NEW MEXICO NEW MEXICO

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115

385 176

190 349

137

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ra w

PECOS

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Fort Davis

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Ozona

Sheffield

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Sonora

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CROCKET CROCKET TT

TERRELL TERRELL 349

Marathon

ive r

TON SUT TON

South Llano River

VAL VERDE VERDE

Shafter

Dryden Langtry

Stillwell Ranch

377

Grande RioRio Grande

Comstock

Presidio Presidio

377

EDWARDS EDWARDS

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385

River

BREWSTER BREWSTER 118

Rockspring Rocksprings

277 377

BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK

Study Terlingua Butte

Lajitas Lajitas

Chisos Basin Castolon

Heath Heath Canyon Canyon

e or m ca k Sy Cree

Del Rio

Amistad International Reservoir

Ciudad Ciudad Acuña Acuña

Rio Grande Grande Village Village

Bracketville 90

277

KINNEY KINNEY 131

MAVERICK MAVERICK 57

Eagle Pass T R A V E L

Piedras Negras

G U I D E

PUBLISHER: Stewart Ramser EDITOR: Tom Buckley DESIGN: David Loyola CONTRIBUTORS: Wendy Little

Rio Grande

Fort Stockton

FM 170

285

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Pat Taylor Field

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LONG HORN AVE

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COVER PHOTO: Big Bend National Park. Photo by Jeff Lynch

BUNTON AVE

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ERMA AVE

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TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL BOARD OF DIRECTORS Robert Alvarez (Chair) — Visit Big Bend Randall Kinzie (Vice Chair/LLC Manager) — Stone Village Tourist Camp and Market, Fort Davis Abby Boyd (Treasurer) — Marfa Chamber of Commerce Chris Ruggia — Visit Alpine Veronica Castro — Visit El Paso Starvanna Cottrell — Hotel El Capitan, Van Horn Danielle Brisette (ex officio) — Magoffin Home, El Paso Rick Gupman (ex officio) — Big Bend National Park

285

377

Junction

Telegraph

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PRESIDIO PRESIDIO

Pe co sR

Sanderson Ruidosa

163

KIMBLE KIMBLE

North Llano

River

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Alpine Marfa 67

Devils

118 17

2810

BREWSTER BREWSTER

•CALE NDAR• OF EVENTS

BLACK-EYED PEA OFF

Starlight Theatre parking lot Terlingua Always on Jan. 1 See p. 58 for details BIG BEND ULTRA

Big Bend Ranch State Park bigbend50.com 2024 Date: Jan. 14

FEBRUARY MARATHON FISH FRY

Community Center Marathon marathontexas.com 2024 Date: Feb. 10 See p. 45 for details EL PASO MARATHON

El Paso elpasomarathon.org 2024 Date: Feb. 18 LONE STAR COWBOY POETRY GATHERING

SPIRITS OF THE WEST

VIVA BIG BEND

Downtown Alpine spiritsfestwtx.com 2024 Dates: Apr. 19–20

Alpine, Marfa, Marathon, Fort Davis and Terlingua vivabigbend.com 2024 Dates: July 24–28

MAY ALPINE COWBOYS BASEBALL

Kokernot Field Alpine alpine.pecosleague.com 2024 Dates: late May through July See p. 27 for details

JUNE THEATRE OF THE BIG BEND

AUGUST BIG BEND RANCH RODEO

S.A.L.E. Arena Alpine bigbendranchrodeo.com 2024 Dates: August 9–11 See p. 27 for details MARFA LIGHTS FESTIVAL

Presidio County Courthouse Marfa 2024 Dates: Aug. 31–Sept. 2 See p. 50 for details

Sul Ross State University Alpine sulross.edu/news/tag/theatre-ofthe-big-bend 2024 Dates: TBA

SEPTEMBER

SMOKE IN THE MOUNTAINS BBQ & RIBEYE SHOOTOUT

PRESIDIO’S MULTICULTURAL FESTIVAL

Jeff Davis County Courthouse Fort Davis fortdavis.com 2024 Dates: June 14-15

Daly Park 2024 Date: Sept. 14 See p. 54 for details

FRONTIER DAYS

Downtown Van Horn vanhorntexas.org 2024 Dates: June 21-22

Museum of the Big Bend Alpine museumofthebigbend.com Opening weekend: TBA See p. 27 for details

EL PASO CHIHUAHUAS BASEBALL

JULY

WEST FEST CABRITO COOKOFF AND DANCE

Southwest University Park El Paso milb.com/el-paso 2024 Dates: Apr. 2– Sept. 15

“COOLEST” 4TH OF JULY CELEBRATION

Sul Ross State University Alpine lonestarcowboypoetry.com 2024 Dates: Feb. 15–17 See p. 27 for details

APRIL

TOTAL SOLAR ECLIPSE AND STAR PARTY

Prude Ranch near Fort Davis texasstarparty.org 2024 Dates: Apr. 5–9 See p. 38 for details TRANS-PECOS ULTRA

Big Bend Ranch State Park trans-pecosultra.com 2024 Dates: Apr. 7–13

Downtown Fort Davis fortdavis.com 2024 Dates: July 4-6 See p. 38 for details MARATHON INDEPENDENCE DAY CHILI COOK-OFF AND DANCE

Post Park Marathon marathontexas.com 2024 Dates: July 6-7 See p. 44 for details

TRAPPINGS OF TEXAS

OCTOBER BIG BEND OCTANE FEST Alpine & Big Bend Region thestablealpine.com 2024 Dates: Oct. 11-14 CHINATI WEEKEND

Multiple venues Marfa chinati.org 2024 Dates: Oct. 5-6 See p. 50 for details Marathon marathon2marathon.com 2024 Date: TBA See p. 44 for details EL PASO WINEFEST

CYCLEFEST

MOON & TUNES FESTIVAL

NATIONAL PUBLIC LANDS DAY

Big Bend National Park publiclandsday.org 2024 Date: Sept. 28 See p. 18 for details

Main St. at Stanton El Paso elpasowinefest.com 2024 Dates: Oct. 19-20 Kelly Outdoor Pavilion Fort Davis dougmoreland.com 2024 Date: TBA FRANK X. TOLBERTWICK FOWLER ORIGINAL TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP COOK-OFF Terlingua

abowlofred.com 2024 Dates: Oct. 30-Nov. 1 See p. 58 for details

NOVEMBER The El Paso Winefest features hundreds of excellent wines and fine eateries

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ARTWALK ALPINE

Multiple venues Alpine artwalkalpine.com 2024 Dates: Nov. 22–23 See p. 27 for details

DECEMBER

MARATHON 2 MARATHON

Post Park Marathon marathontexas.com 2024 Dates: Sept. 21-22 See p. 44 for details Prude Ranch Fort Davis pbbatx.com/cyclefest 2024 Dates: Sept. 21–22 See p. 38 for details

The Big Bend Ranch Rodeo in Alpine is fun for all ages

TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP

Rancho CASI de los Chisos casichili.net 2024 Dates: TBA See p. 58 for details

FRONTIER CHRISTMAS

Memorial Square & Nature Conservancy Fort Davis fortdavis.com 2024 Date: TBA See p. 38 for details LIGHTED CHRISTMAS PARADE

Convention Center Van Horn vanhorntexas.org 2024 Date: Dec. 7 CHRISTMAS IN ALPINE

Multiple venues Alpine visitalpinetx.com/events 2024 Dates: TBA MARFA HOLIDAY BAZAAR

Multiple venues Marfa marfachamberofcommerce.org 2024 Date: TBA FIESTA DE NOCHA BUENA

Main Street Marathon marathontexas.com 2024 Date: Dec. 7 See p. 44 for details

FROM TOP: HADLEY KIBBE; COURTESY OF EL PASO WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL

JANUARY

Big Bend ENCOMPASSING MORE THAN 800,000 ACRES OF MOUNTAIN CLIFFS, DESERT EXPANSES AND TOWERING RIVER CANYONS, BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK IS THE KING OF TEXAS’ NATIONAL PUBLIC AREAS, SELECTED BY NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC for its “BEST OF THE WORLD 2023" feature

14 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

LEE HOY

NATIONAL PARK

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 15

— from short and very well developed to long, rugged and remote — offer exceptional views. Back-country roads lead to private back-country camping sites available for both drive-in and backpacking options with a permit. Historic sites and ruins are numerous. Opportunities for solitude are many. Big Bend National Park is also arguably the most ecologically diverse park in the entire national parks system. It is known to have more species of birds, plants, butterflies, bats, reptiles and even ants than any other U.S. national park.

Choose Your Own Adventure

The Chisos Mountains offer high-elevation hiking, with trails for all skill levels. The famed South Rim has both a dramatic drop-off and an unobstructed view to the horizon line on a clear day. Boot Canyon contains the largest trees in the park and some of the largest of their species in

GUADALUPE MTS. NP

•

Van Horn ●

Alpine BIG BEND NP

LEE HOY

any features set Big Bend apart from its national park brethren, including the fact that it is the only one to contain an entire mountain range — the Chisos — within its borders. Dedicated in 1944, the park is nestled in the bend of the Rio Grande River along the TexasMexico border, where outstanding examples of Chihuahuan Desert topography and ecology beckon nature enthusiasts from around the world. A land of contrasts, Big Bend contains geological marvels, historic and prehistoric treasures and an amazing diversity of plant and animal life across its dramatic range of elevations. From its lowest point of 1,850 feet in Rio Grande Village to Emory Peak at 7,825 feet, the park presents impressive changes in climate, with temperatures in the desert routinely 10 to 20 degrees warmer than in the mountains. Desert opportunities abound. Numerous trails

16 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

the country. Emory Peak Trail has dramatic views of both the south and north sides of the mountain. Birding is excellent in the mountains, especially in the spring and fall. Spring sees the arrival of the Colima Warbler. The only place that this bird is found in the U.S. is in the Chisos Mountains. Campers in the Chisos Basin will enjoy development boosts, including a newly rehabbed campground with much-improved facilities and new, night sky-friendly lighting. Also, visitors and campers alike can enjoy meals on the porch at the lodge (the lodge and restaurant may close starting in 2024 for renovations). With over 150 miles of back-country dirt roads and 200 miles of trails, walking, hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding are all popular options for exploring the park. Some of the more popular hikes include the Window View Trail in the Chisos Basin, which is wheelchair accessible and perfect for a mountain sunset; Rio Grande Village Nature Trail, which offers some of the best birding in the

D O N OT

MISS in BIG BEN D SANTA ELENA CANYON Visible for more than 10 miles, this iconic area of Big Bend features dramatic limestone canyon walls created over time by the mighty Rio Grande.

HOT SPRINGS HISTORIC DISTRICT After an adventurous day in the park, soak your tired bones here, where the water remains at 105 degrees Fahrenheit year-round.

FOSSIL DISCOVERY EXHIBIT This new exhibit (opened January 2017) explores the area’s paleontological and geological past, complete with replicas of fossils found within the park.

LEE HOY

PANTHER JUNCTION VISITOR CENTER This is a must-stop for first-time visitors and those who haven’t been in a while. Get all fees, permits, maps and more here, and take a break to check out the new 22-minute on-demand film detailing the wonders of the park.

RAFTING THE RIO GRANDE

ROSS MAXWELL SCENIC DRIVE

Local outfitters provide guided trips along the Rio Grande, giving a whole new perspective to Big Bend National Park.

This paved, 30-mile scenic drive showcases some of the best views in the park. There are many stops along the way, but don’t miss Sotol Vista with its satisfying overlook and view of the desert terrain, and Mule Ears, the perfect viewing area for another iconic sight in the park. A hiking trail to the formation starts from here as well.

HIKING With more than 150 miles of hiking trails, Big Bend is a hiker’s paradise. Two highlights: the Lost Mine Trail, which is medium difficulty and offers breathtaking views beginning midway, and the Window View Trail, which is worth the effort to catch a glorious Big Bend sunset through the “window” in the Chisos Basin.

CHISOS BASIN AREA This mountainous area in the center of the park is the most popular portion, though some overlook it. The park’s only hotel and restaurant are in this area, which is usually cooler than the surrounding desert, even during the summer.

BALANCED ROCK ON THE GRAPEVINE HILLS TRAIL  This unusual formation — a giant boulder inexplicably balanced between two gigantic rounded rocks — is a favorite spot for selfies.

Make the most of your visit to Big Bend National Park with a complimentary guided audio tour using your smartphone. Search “Just Ahead” in the App Store or on Google Play and look for the free “Big Bend” guide.

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 17

region; and the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Trail at Dugout Wells, featuring native plant life identified along this half-mile path. The 118 miles of the Rio Grande that border the park wind through the Santa Elena, Boquillas and Mariscal Canyons. A river trip by raft, canoe or kayak is an unforgettable way to encounter the remote wilderness of Big Bend. Leisurely half-day floats to multiday camping trips are available. Santa Elena is the most popular outfitter trip with dramatic 1,500-foot canyon walls. Boquillas is a two-night/threeday trip on average but great for families with its Class II or less rapids at average water levels and many side hiking opportunities. There are three developed campgrounds in the park: Chisos Basin Campground, Rio Grande Village Campground and Cottonwood Campground, all with water, restrooms and some with primitive shelters. There is also an RV park at Rio Grande Village, the only location in the park with full hookups. Public showers and laundry facilities are available at the Rio Grande Village Store. Most of the campsites operate on a first-come, first-served basis and fill up quickly in March, April and during the holiday season.

Boquillas, Mexico

Plan Your Trip

The Chisos Basin Lodge can be reached at (432) 477-2291 or chisosmountainslodge. com. Work may begin on the new lodge and restaurant in 2024. Confirm timing of construction by checking the website or calling. A limited number of sites in Rio Grande Village and Chisos Basin allow advance reservations from Nov. 15 to April 15. Call (877) 444-6777 or reserve online at recreation.gov. Visit nps.gov/bibe or call (432) 477-2251 for more information. For a full list of Big Bend area activities, go to visitbigbend. com (the most complete reference source for all things greater Big Bend and Brewster County).

Events NATIONAL PUBLIC LANDS DAY

National Public Lands Day is a nationwide celebration of our country’s public lands. Held the last weekend of September each year, the event brings thousands of people to parks across the country.

ENTRANCE FEES Vehicle: $30 for a 7-day pass good at any park entrance ($25 per motorcycle) Individual: $15 for a 7-day individual pass (bicyclists and pedestrians) Annual Pass: $55 Allows unlimited entry for one year from month of purchase.

CAMPGROUND FEES The nightly fee for camping in one of the developed front-country campgrounds is $16 ($8 with Senior or Access pass). Individual backcountry campsites require a $10 permit ($5 with Senior or Access pass), which can be acquired at Panther Junction or Chisos Basin visitor centers in person or at recreation.gov. Special rates apply to commercial and non-commercial groups, as well as interagency officials, seniors and the permanently disabled. Inquire at the ranger station or call (432) 477-2251.

LEE HOY

In the spring of 2013, the border crossing at Boquillas reopened as a result of enthusiastic advocates in both the United States and Mexican

governments. The COVID-19 pandemic temporarily closed the crossing, but it is once again open. While a travel advisory is in place from the U.S. State Department for travel in Mexico, residents of the Big Bend area continue to enjoy an extremely low incidence rate, and a visible, supportive law enforcement presence.

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A L D U A P U G Mountains E N AT IO NA L PA R K

ONE

LEE HOY

ocated north of Van Horn on the Texas-New Mexico border, the 86,416 acres of Guadalupe Mountains National Park (GMNP) represent some of the most varied and beautiful hiking trails in all of Texas. With elevations in the park ranging from 3,689 feet at the gypsum dunes to the west of the Guadalupe Mountains to the highest peak in Texas, Guadalupe Peak, at 8,750 feet, visitors are treated to a tremendous diversity of native plants and animals. With 46,850 acres of designated wilderness, and an additional 35,484 acres which are eligible for wilderness study, GMNP preserves the largest wilderness area in the state of Texas. Established on Sept. 30, 1972, GMNP is part of the Guadalupe Mountains range, which stretches from Carlsbad, New Mexico, to the salt flats and gypsum dunes just east of Dell City. Those gypsum dunes are the second largest in the U.S. and third largest in North America and the world after White Sands National Monument, New Mexico, and Cuatrocienegas Natural Protected Area (Coahuila, Mexico). Guadalupe Peak, and the surrounding Guadalupe Mountains, are part of an ancient

OF A

M E R I C A ' S B E ST - K E P T S E C

•

RET

El Paso marine fossil reef that was under the vast Delaware inland sea approximately 260 million years ago. It is regarded as one of the world’s best examples of Middle Permian geology, attracting geologists from around the world. In addition to the Guadalupe Mountains, the 400-mile, horseshoeshaped El Capitán Reef is now exposed in the Glass Mountains, near Alpine, as well as the Apache Mountains. In the Pine Springs Visitor Center (5,013 feet in elevation), educational videos and exhibits shed light on the geologic history of the park. Other exhibits showcase the abundant and diverse plant life and wildlife. Visitors may join a park ranger for an interpretive talk or walk on one the park’s trails. Discover the cultural history of the park at one of the heritage sites, such as the recently restored Frijole Ranch House, Williams Ranch, Pratt Cabin, remnants of Buffalo Soldier encampments or the Pinery Butterfield Overland Stage station. Explore the natural beauty and grandeur along the hiking trails, taking in views

of everything from harsh desert landscapes to lush streamside woodlands rich in oaks and maples. Van Horn Perhaps the most Alpine popular attraction is the brilliant fall display of red, orange and yellow bigtooth BIG BEND maples in McKittrick Canyon, NP which peaks in late October. Fall color displays may also be seen at Smith Springs, Devil’s Hall and Dog Canyon. Families with children will find Junior Ranger, Senior Ranger, Wilderness Explorer Junior Ranger, Junior Ranger Night Explorer and Junior Paleontologist programs chock full of age-appropriate activities. The park website (www.nps.gov/gumo/) provides a schedule of park activities and updates on fall color showings to aid travelers in planning their visits. GUADALUPE MTS. NP

•

Explore the Guadalupes

A hiker’s paradise, GMNP boasts more than 80 miles of trails, meandering through woodland canyons and lush riparian springs, as well as those zigzagging up steep switchbacks through the park’s rugged wilderness to Guadalupe BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 19

America the Beautiful annual passes are $80 (good for entry, as well as other services and discounts, at federal public lands). Senior Passes (age 62 or older) are $20 (annual) or $80 (lifetime). Lifetime America the Beautiful Access Passes are available free of charge to U.S. citizens with a qualifying permanent disability. Free America the Beautiful Military Passes may be obtained by active-duty military personnel (and dependents), veterans and Gold Star Family members. Free annual passes are also available to 4th Graders and volunteers with federal agencies. More information available at: nps.gov/planyourvisit/passes. htm

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Experience West Texas History

Discover the park’s Native American, cavalry (including the Buffalo Soldiers) and pioneer ranching history at one of the well-preserved historic sites. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Frijole Ranch History Museum features the homes and outbuildings of various Anglo settlers, including the Smith family, who operated their small truck farm and orchard from 1906 to 1942. The Pinery is one of the best-preserved and highest staging outposts on the Butterfield-Overland Route, which ran from St. Louis and Memphis to San Francisco from 1858 until the outbreak of the Civil War. The Pinery station ceased

operations in August 1859, when the route was shifted southward to give it better protection from raids and provide better access to water. Hikers in McKittrick Canyon may visit Pratt Cabin. Park visitors with a 4x4 vehicle and lust for adventure can visit the historic Williams Ranch, one of the earliest park homesteads with a well-documented, albeit colorful, history. Before traveling that way, stop by the Pine Springs Visitor Center to check out a gate key, and be aware that the drive, though only a little more than seven miles, takes about an hour. Guadalupe Mountains National Park has two front-country campgrounds, Pine Springs and Dog Canyon, a group campground and group picnic area at Frijole Ranch and 10 back-country campgrounds spread throughout the park. Obtain back-country camping permits at www.recreation.gov or the Pine Springs Visitor Center daily between 8 a.m. and 4:15 p.m. Entrance fees can be paid at any of the trail heads. Simply fill out the fee envelope and deposit at any trail head collection safe (the “iron ranger”). Display your detachable stub on your vehicle dashboard. Before you venture into the back country or before you leave to go back home, make sure to visit the GMNP bookstore in the Pine Springs Visitor Center to purchase a variety of books about the park, maps or postcards. If you would like to spend more time helping the park directly, inquire about the park’s Volunteers In Parks (VIP) program. For more information about Guadalupe Mountains National Park, visit nps.gov/gumo/ or call (915) 8283251 ext. 2124 for updated information. ADDITIONAL INFO SOURCES:

Facebook: facebook.com/Guadalupe.Mountains/ Twitter: twitter.com/GuadalupeMtnsNP/

LEE HOY

FEES AND PASSES Guadalupe Mountains National Park annual passes are $35 and cover up to four adult entrance fees. Seven-day permits are available at a rate of $10 per adult. Children under age 16 are free. Camping permits are $20 per site. Campsites for Pine Springs and Dog Canyon Campgrounds can be reserved at recreation.gov.

Peak, Bush Mountain, The Bowl, Bear Canyon, Pine Top, McKittrick Ridge, Shumard Canyon, Hunter Peak, Dog Canyon and the distinctive El Capitán (which, at 8,085 feet above sea level, is an imposing sentinel at the west end of the Guadalupes). There are two short, easy hikes — the 0.4-mile Manzanita Spring Trail or the 0.67-mile Pinery Trail — both of which are paved and wheelchair accessible. Moderate trails, such as McKittrick Canyon (4.8-6.8 miles, depending on the route), are available, as well as strenuous trails, such as the Guadalupe Peak Trail (8.4 miles) or The Bowl (9.3 miles). These trails require several hours and ample supplies, including at least one gallon of water per person per day (one quart per hour if it is hot). Trekking poles are recommended. Sixty percent of the park’s trails are available for horseback riding, though visitors must bring their own stock. Either by foot or horse, the park is a place to discover fossils and explore geologic and human history, observe native wildlife, view colorful wildflowers, capture great photos, create paintings or simply gaze into the wondrous, star-filled night sky.

LEE HOY

STATE Parks

The State Parks and State Historic Sites of the Big Bend and Texas mountains region showcase a panorama of West Texas scenes. From gushing spring waters to lofty, milehigh peaks, from the harsh grandeur of Chihuahuan Desert landscapes to museumquality exhibits, Texas State Parks offer something for every taste. Here you will find safe, secure and wholesome environments for camping, picnicking, hiking, fishing, stargazing, hunting, rock climbing, cycling, boating, floating, birding, swimming, horseback riding, interpretive programming or peace and quiet. Stop in for a visit. You’ll be glad you did! BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 21

DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE PARK

The largest state park in Texas, with more than 300,000 acres of Chihuahuan Desert wilderness, the park embraces some of the most remote and rugged terrain in the Southwest. Mountain bikers, hikers and equestrians enjoy miles of trails that traverse “the other side of nowhere.”

Davis Mountains State Park, 2,709 acres in size, is located in Jeff Davis County, four miles northwest of Fort Davis, approximately halfway between Guadalupe Mountains National Park and Big Bend National Park. The original portion of the park was deeded to the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department by a local family. Original improvements were made by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1933; the park has been open to the public since the late 1930s, and formal campground facilities were added in 1967. The Davis Mountains, the most extensive mountain range in Texas, were formed by volcanic activity during the Tertiary geologic period, which began about 65 million years ago. These mountains were named after Jefferson Davis, U.S. secretary of war and later president of the Confederacy, who ordered the construction of the Fort Davis army post. Few Americans had seen the Davis Mountains prior to 1846. After the war with Mexico, a wave of gold seekers, settlers and traders came through the area and needed the protection of a military post — Fort Davis. Fort Davis was active from

Presidio

(432) 358-4444 (512) 389-8919 (reservations) tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/bigbend-ranch BARTON WARNOCK VISITOR CENTER

Terlingua and Lajitas

The center serves as the eastern entrance to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Exhibits interpret 570 million years of geologic history and the five biological landscapes of the Chihuahuan Desert. It was named for famed botanist and 33-year Sul Ross State University professor Dr. Barton Warnock (1911–1998).

(432) 424-3327 tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/ barton-warnock 22 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

Fort Davis

1854 until 1891, except for certain periods during the Civil War. In 1961, the historic fort ruins were declared a National Historic Site, and a vast restoration and preservation program was initiated by the National Park Service.

(432) 426-3337 tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/davismountains FORT LEATON STATE HISTORIC SITE

Presidio

Fort Leaton is day-use only and offers picnicking areas, tours through newly restored and furnished rooms, plus exhibits on the region’s history: from 16th-century conquistadors to Ben Leaton’s 19th-century trading post to the present. The fort also serves as the western entrance for Big Bend Ranch State Park.

Four miles east of Presidio on F.M. 170 . (432) 229-3613 tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/fortleaton

FRANKLIN MOUNTAINS STATE PARK £

El Paso

Hike, bike or run the rugged terrain of this 37-square-mile state park that sits on the northern edge of El Paso. Rock climbing is also popular in McKelligon Canyon or Sneed’s Cory.

(915) 444-9100 tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/ franklin-mountains TEXAS STATE PARKS PASS The Texas State Parks Pass is an annual pass that offers many special benefits to members. As a member, you and your guests enjoy unlimited visits to Texas State Parks, State Natural Areas and State Historic Sites without paying the daily entrance fees. The cost is $70 for a one-card membership. Learn more at: tpwd.texas.gov/ state-parks/park-information/passes/

VISIT: TPWD.TEXAS.GOV/STATEPARKS/ TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE OTHER AREA PARKS AND PARKS ACROSS THE STATE OF TEXAS.

FROM LEFT LEE HOY, COURTESY VISIT EL PASO

BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK £

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Alpine

The unique geographic location nestled between three mountain ranges gives Alpine one of the most agreeable climates in Texas: warm, sunny winter days and cool summer nights

KATHY MCNAIR/VISIT ALPINE TEXAS

he area that would one day be Alpine had been an encampment for Native Americans, and then a campsite for cattlemen until a town of tents was created, consisting of railroad workers and their families. They called their settlement Murphyville, and it remained as such for five years until a petition by townspeople rendered a name change. At the time Murphyville became Alpine, there were already a dozen houses, three saloons, a hotel, a rooming house, a livery stable, a butcher shop and a drugstore, which also housed the post office. Alpine grew very slowly until Sul Ross Normal College (now Sul Ross State University) was opened in 1920. The opening of Big Bend National Park in the 1940s further spurred the growth of the town. Now, the high desert country, mountain ranges and access to neighboring towns and attractions are only a few of the wonders that make Alpine a popular destination. Situated within the great Chihua-

huan Desert between Big Bend National Park and the Davis Mountains, Alpine, with its tree-lined streets and university, is at the center of the Big Bend region. As such, it serves as the transportation and service hub for far West Texas. In addition to the general aviation airport, Alpine-Casparis Municipal Airport, there is an Amtrak station and access to the area via Greyhound bus lines, delivering visitors to all Alpine has to offer. The Museum of the Big Bend at Sul Ross is a favorite stop. For more than 70 years, the Museum has presented the rich and multifaceted story of the Big Bend region, highlighting the contributions of many cultures over thousands of years, from prehistoric rock art to the movies of the modern day that have been filmed in the area. In 2023, a striking modern addition was added to the Museum, doubling its size and providing elegant spaces for art displays and events. No matter what brings you here, Alpine is a great staging place for any far West Texas adventure. There are ample lodging

GUADALUPE MTS. NP

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and dining opportunities. See cowboys competing at rodeo events, watch professional baseball in a historic ballpark, and see summer theater productions under a roof of stars. The Lone Star Cowboy Poetry Gathering, Trappings of Texas, Artwalk, Viva Big Bend and Big Bend Ranch Rodeo are just five of the most popular annual events. Stroll through downtown to see murals, shops and quite often some live music. But perhaps what will keep you coming back is the nearly idyllic climate. At 4,600 feet and perfectly situated between the Davis, Glass and Del Norte Mountains, you’ll be hard-pressed to find more moderate, year-round temperatures in all of Texas. BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 25

PERFORMING ARTS AND LIVE ENTERTAINMENT As a Texas Music Friendly Community, Alpine offers a variety of stage performances and live entertainment throughout the year. The Theatre of the Big Bend features outdoor summer productions under the stars and against the backdrop of the Davis Mountains at Kokernot Park. And around town each week, live music events from open-mic nights to touring shows keep the nights lively. sulross.edu (Theatre of the Big Bend), visitalpinetx.com/events-calendar

🅓 KOKERNOT FIELD For baseball enthusiasts, Kokernot Field will take your breath away. Styled after the famous Wrigley Field, this baseball diamond was built in the 1940s for the semi-pro Alpine Cowboys. The landmark stadium is now home to a recent professional incarnation of the team, also called the Alpine Cowboys.

ALPINE’S MURALS Alpine boasts a growing collection of colorful murals celebrating regional themes. In addition to “Big Brewster” by Stylle Read (a long-time landmark at the Kiowa Gallery) and many other murals decorating the walls of downtown businesses, Alpine’s Artwalk recently unveiled another Stylle Read mural honoring Texas musicians at the PrintCo building. Alpine’s murals won the 2021 Texas Travel Awards in the category of Best Public Art Display (Small Market). visitalpinetx.com/murals

🅔 COUNTY COURTHOUSE HALL OF HISTORY Take a walk through the great hall in the Brewster County Courthouse and step back through the years. On display are photographs from early Alpine and the surrounding area.

🅕 HISTORIC MURPHY STREET Murphy Street, one block south of the railroad tracks, has gone through a revitalization. Visit the shops and restaurants and explore the deep history of Alpine.

🅐 HISTORIC WALKING AND WINDSHIELD TOUR Take a leisurely stroll or drive around Alpine’s downtown for a glimpse of architectural history. A copy of the walking tour guide and map is available at the Alpine Visitor Center located at 106 N. 3rd St. visitalpinetx.com

🅑 SUL ROSS STATE UNIVERSITY Established in 1920, the university’s picturesque campus overlooks Alpine and the surrounding valley. With years of history and its uniquely beautiful setting, the campus of Sul Ross is a delightful place to wander around. Many of the buildings are now designated as historic. Sul Ross is a member of the Texas State University System. With an average undergraduate class size of just 20 students, it’s the perfect setting for pursuing an associate, bachelor’s or master’s degree in liberal

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arts, science, fine arts or any number of professional studies programs, such as business administration or criminal law. sulross.edu

🅒 MUSEUM OF THE BIG BEND Located on the Sul Ross campus, the museum’s permanent exhibits explore the natural and human history of the region, honoring the contributions of Native Americans, as well as Spanish, Mexican and Anglo settlers. The museum hosts the nationally recognized Trappings of Texas exhibit and sale and was a winner in the Texas Travel Awards for Best Small Market Museum in 2021, 2022, and 2023. Check the website or call (432) 837-8730 for current hours of operation. museumofthebigbend.com

ALPINE COUNTRY CLUB GOLF COURSE Next to Kokernot Park, this nine-hole course is popular with visitors and residents alike. Cart rental and concessions are available.

HANCOCK HILL / “THE DESK” Located immediately behind Sul Ross State University is Hancock Hill (it’s the one with the big “SR” on it!). Owned by the University but open to the public, Hancock Hill is a great place to hike for panoramic views of Alpine. If you’re up for exploring, on the eastern edge there is a desk which overlooks the valley below. It may be hard to find if you don’t know where you’re going, so if you need directions, stop by the Alpine Visitor Center.

Events Call or check websites for up-to-date information.

ARTWALK Alpine’s biggest festival for the arts spans two days in November to showcase a variety of art exhibitions in many local businesses, all against a backdrop of festivities and live music through the evenings. (210) 218-1144, artwalkalpine.com

J. GRIFFIS SMITH/VISIT ALPINE TEXAS

Attractions

ALPINE COWBOYS BASEBALL With roots going back to the 1940s, the Alpine Cowboys are the community’s professional baseball team in the Pecos League. Home games held at Kokernot Field from late May through July are a refreshing event, especially set against the backdrop of Alpine’s surrounding mountains. For more information go to alpine.pecosleague.com.

BIG BEND RANCH RODEO The rugged, gritty workings of ranch life take center stage at this rodeo in August. Ranchers from all over the state come to test their mettle in events evoking real cowboy skills. (432) 294-1640, bigbendranchrodeo.com

BIG BEND BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL Hosted by the Big Bend Bluegrass Association, the festival brings together music fans and musicians to celebrate and enjoy bluegrass, old-time and traditional gospel music.

LONE STAR COWBOY POETRY GATHERING TRAPPINGS OF TEXAS

VIVA BIG BEND

Trappings of Texas showcases the best of Western art and custom cowboy gear. Held in the fall at the Museum of the Big Bend on the campus of Sul Ross State University, visitors and interested buyers can meet and visit with the artists and gear makers who have works for sale at the Museum and at the public auction fundraiser. museumofthebigbend.com

Viva Big Bend is an annual music festival held in far West Texas. Taking place the last weekend of July in Alpine, Fort Davis, Marfa, Terlingua and Marathon, VBB showcases more than 50 bands in 10 venues. Festival wristbands are good for all nighttime shows, and many of the shows during the day are free and open to the public. Additional information can be found at vivabigbend.com.

HADLEY KIBBE

The Lone Star Cowboy Poetry Gathering is a two-day event in February celebrating the oral tradition of the working cowboy in poetry, stories and music. Enjoy more than 50 performers in the classrooms and on the stages of Sul Ross State University’s campus. The event continues a tradition of cowboy poetry gatherings in Alpine going back almost 40 years.

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Food and Drink AMIGO SPORTS BAR & RESTAURANT 101 W Ave E (432) 837-4012 alpinecityplace.com/page/222 Amigo is a neighborhood bar and restaurant featuring classic and new West Texas fare. This family friendly restaurant is the best place to watch live sports and grab some awesome food in downtown Alpine. It’s located downstairs in Alpine City Place (downtown hotel at 101103 West Avenue E, in the heart of downtown Alpine). Live entertainment almost every night!

CENTURY BAR & GRILL 209 W. Holland Ave. (432) 837-1922 thecenturybarandgrill.com Casual elegance, great food, and good drinks. Located in the historic Holland Hotel, this eatery offers a distinctive menu, a number of dining options and a beautifully designed bar. Enjoy a luxury cocktail and indulge in one of the decadent menu items.

➍ REATA RESTAURANT

➊ BIG BEND REGIONAL MEDICAL CENTER 2600 N. Highway 118 (432) 837-3447 bigbendhealthcare.com Big Bend Regional Medical Center (BBRMC) is a 25bed, joint-commission-accredited, acute-care facility. Big Bend Regional has a Level 4 Trauma designated emergency department and offers 24-hour emergency care, ICU, medical/surgical rooms, OB care, imaging, pharmacy, laboratory and surgical services.

BBT 808 N. 5th St. (800) 592-4781 bigbend.com BBT (formerly Big Bend Telecom) offers internet and voice services. The service area includes Alpine, Big Bend National Park, Fort Davis, Fort Stockton, Lajitas, Marathon, Marfa, Presidio, Sanderson, Terlingua and more.

➋ OUT WEST FEED & SUPPLY 2600 East US-90 (432) 837-5792 outwestfeedandsupply.com More than just a feed store, Out West has western wear, and all materials and supplies for farming, ranching and more.

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THE STABLE PERFORMANCE CARS 511 W. Holland Ave. (432) 837-9789 thestablealpine.com At the Stable Performance Cars, the performance- and classic-car enthusiast has a comfortable place to visit and talk cars in a relaxed atmosphere.

Real Estate MTN. VIEW PROPERTIES 2100 W. Hwy 90 (432) 837-5518 mtnviewproperties.com Mtn. View Properties specializes in the marketing and sale of homes in West Texas, as well as commercial and ranch properties. They serve Brewster, Presidio, Jeff Davis, and Culberson Counties. As your agent and premier real estate company of choice, they will assist you from beginning to end.

➌ SIERRA LA RANA 2 miles south of Alpine off Hwy. 118 (866) 757-2382 sierralarana.com Gated Ranch Community. Own your own land! Now offering large tracts from 10 to 150 acres in a recognized international dark sky community.

SPICEWOOD RESTAURANT 2612 W. US-90 (432) 837-4227 qc7hotel.com One of Alpine’s most popular restaurants for lunch and dinner, the offerings at Spicewood are extensive and consistently high quality. Opened in 2019 on the western edge of town, the owners (who also own the Hotel Parker) have upgraded the building.

Lodging ALPINE CITY PLACE 103 W Ave E (432) 294-5547 AlpineCityPlace.com Located in the heart of downtown, Alpine City Place offers 17 designer styled rooms upstairs above Amigo (on-site restaurant, bar, and live music venue!). This boutique hotel delivers choices and convenience for locals, business and leisure travelers alike. Alpine City Place features multiple spaces to work or relax in, free Wi-Fi throughout and a great atmosphere for locals and visitors to Alpine and the surrounding Big Bend towns. STEWART RAMSER

Shopping and Services

203 N. 5th Street (432) 837-9232 reata.net The world-famous Reata Restaurant has been serving legendary Texas cuisine since 1995 in Alpine. From chicken fried steak to calf fries, pepper crusted tenderloin or a cowboy rib eye, Reata is a true West Texas dining experience not to be missed.

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➑ THE MAVERICK INN

432.294.5447 cottonwoodcreekcabins.com Located just seven miles south of Alpine at 5200ft elevation, this idyllic nature retreat offers a relaxing stay with incredible dark skies at night with almost zero light or noise pollution. Don't just stay but enjoy the amenities including nearly two miles of nature trails. Perfect for astrophotography (1/2 on the Bortle dark-sky scale). Pets welcome. Choose how you stay. There are five custom built cabins and one luxury canvas tipi.

1200 E. Holland Ave. (432) 837-0628 themaverickinn.com A roadhouse for wanderers: classic motor court, completely updated for the modern traveler.

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209 W. Holland Ave. (800) 535-8040 | (432) 837-2800 thehollandhoteltexas.com Recently renovated historic downtown hotel. Trost & 118 Trost architecture.

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➐ HOLLAND HOTEL

432-294-6043 Trans-PecosJeeps.com Trans-Pecos Jeeps is a car rental company based in Alpine and offers a fleet of late model ’21–’22 Jeep Gladiators in Mojave and Rubicon trims. All car rentals include 250 miles per day and they can deliver Jeeps to the Alpine Amtrak Station, Alpine Airport, Fort Davis, Marfa (including the Marfa Airport), Marathon, Study Butte and Terlingua.

2004 E. Hwy. 90 (432) 837-9597 holidayinnexpress.com Indoor pool, fitness room.

TRANS-PECOS JEEPS

➏ HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS & SUITES

transportation

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2607 W. Hwy. 90 (432) 837-7344 alpine.hamptoninn.com Indoor pool/spa, fitness room.

2800 US-90 (432) 837-1100 qc7hotel.com Completely renovated recently.

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It’s only natural, then, that this revitalization would result in a newfound appreciation for some of the city’s most iconic structures, offering a touchstone to the past while bringing a new vitality to Alpine.

The Holland Hotel

MAKING

In Alpine, preserving the past may mean restoration, renovation or transformation

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THE GRANADA THEATRE

ince the mid 1990s, Alpine has enjoyed a resurgence in cultural sophistication and artistic refinement. The first Gallery Night, in 1994, signaled the beginning of the Alpine renaissance at the same time a variety of new businesses also emerged, ushering in a trend of downtown revitalization. During the 21st century, new events like Spirits of the West Wine & Beef Fest, pairing Texas winemakers and brewmasters with beef producers, and the Big Bend Bluegrass Festival, along with a state-of-the art museum, several art galleries, and the addition of Marfa Public Radio have not only heightened the quality of life for residents but encouraged tourism as well.

The Granada Theatre

The Granada was constructed during the 1920s, at a time when movie theaters were becoming increasingly popular across the country. Consistent with the time period, the structure consists of classic Art Deco architecture, known for its sleek lines, geometric shapes and decorative elements. Over the years, the theater has undergone renovations and improvements to ensure its continued use and cultural relevance. But when Benjamin Garcia, a self-described serial entrepreneur, arrived in Alpine in 2018, the Granada was shuttered, a victim of financial difficulties. For Garcia, the decision to purchase the building was a no-brainer. “It was obvious, walking into the Granada for the first time, that it was different from everything else in Alpine,” Garcia says. “There’s zero direct competition to the Granada.”

J. GRIFFIS SMITH/TXDOT

Built in 1928, the Holland quickly became a hub for travelers and visitors to Alpine given its prime location in the heart of downtown. The hotel, which was designed by famed architect Henry Trost, features Spanish Colonial Revival architecture, popular during the 1920s and ’30s, characterized by elements such as stucco walls, red-tiled roofs, arched doorways and decorative tile work. It’s no wonder, then, that the hotel has served as a gathering place for locals and visitors alike. “When you look at old newspaper clippings, the lobby is often referred to as ‘the living room of Alpine,’” says Collin Bibb, co-founder of Byways Hospitality, which is seeking to restore the nearly 100-year-old structure to its original layout.“We want to return the Holland to its former glory.” Alpine’s character runs deep at the Holland. In the guest rooms, artwork depicts Western scenes such as the desert mountains of Big Bend and cavalry outposts, and it’s not uncommon to hear the timeless rumble and blasting horn of an approaching train. Inside, at the Century Bar and Grill, cowboys and businesspeople rub shoulders with tourists and Sul Ross students. On the hotel’s ground floor, the bay windows of the Century look upon Holland Avenue and the railroad tracks that bisect the town. Visitors to the Century can relax in the Rio Grande room, with its vaulted ceiling and intricate paint work, enjoy a New York-style experience at the venue’s Chef’s Tables with a view on the open kitchen, or just head to the courtyard out back for some outdoor dining in the refreshing high-desert climate. The intimate bar serves unique cocktails, along with a wide selection of beer and wine.

Prior to Garcia’s arrival, the Granada had served as a venue for primarily high-end private events and occasional music concerts. Garcia’s goal was to transform the venue, at least in part, into a community space. To achieve that goal, Garcia has complemented high-end events with smaller gatherings like kids’ birthday parties, private screenings, family nights, clothing and book swaps — even the high school prom. “Just having all those high school kids in there, having fun, and the event being a nice upscale event instead of at the high school,” Garcia says, “makes me feel like I’m doing my part for the community.” Garcia is quick to add, however, that “Most of the money still comes from those high-end private parties and big live music events. Doing the smaller stuff doesn’t make money.” But that doesn’t mean there’s no payoff. “When the space is always active and alive,” Garcia says, “it’s always on people’s minds. There’s not much risk in just being open.” Garcia has also made use of the Granada’s adjacent space. Above the theater is now La Sala yoga studio, and next to the Granada is Brews & Hues, a small art/jewelry store that also serves drinks. Then there’s the former Saddle Club — now Alcove Social — next door to the Granada, a comfortable, casual watering hole in sleek, Westernthemed digs. Garcia recently purchased Kishmish Plaza, across from the Granada, which will serve as a themed activity space: a haunted house in October, an ice skating rink in November and December, a laser tag arena at other times. And Garcia plans to open a native plant nursery, a bicycle/scooter rental

THE HOLLAND HOTEL

shop and an outdoor event venue in the field behind the building.

The Hotel Ritchey

One of downtown’s few remaining wood-framed structures, the Hotel Ritchey, “the blue-collar alternative to the Holland,” according to archaeologist and historian David Keller, is on the bustling corner of 5th and Murphy Streets. Keller and Anne Calaway, former owner of Front Street Books, purchased the Ritchey in 2021.

FROM TOP: MICHAEL HOWARD/COURTESY HOLLAND HOTEL; COURTESY HISTORIC ALPINE, INC.

THE GRANADA THEATRE

Concerned about the property’s fate, they decided that together they could continue the meticulous restoration championed by previous owner Mattie Matthaei, who auctioned the property during the pandemic. “We were concerned the Ritchey was going to be torn down, and we didn’t want to see that happen,” Keller says. “It’s one of the last railroad hotels still in existence in Texas.” During its closure, the Ritchey underwent a refreshing transformation while retaining the soul and ambiance that had endeared it to the Alpine community over the years. Operating the Ritchey bar is now in the hands of a seasoned Trans-Pecos food and beverage expert, Mateo Mares, owner of Alpine’s renowned Cedar Coffee, along with Sam Stavinoha from Marathon’s French Co. Grocer. To commemorate its grand reopening, the Ritchey hosted a special community event in 2023 — the Viva Big Bend music festival kickoff party, which drew locals eager to celebrate the return of live music to one of their favorite spots. Indeed, the Ritchey again features live music and has recaptured the atmosphere that’s made the hotel a beloved spot in Alpine. Mares himself plays in a band that performs at the hotel. Keller and Calaway want the Ritchey to have the same feel as it did pre-pandemic — tied to the quiet, historic nature of the neighborhood. They still envision a saloon and gathering place “preserved and protected in perpetuity for the people of Alpine,” Keller says. With a long history of pride in its panoramic setting and quaint rural town life, Alpine is regaining its rightful identify as a distinguished town with a rich past and promising future. BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 31

PASO With the largest urban state park in the U.S. right in the heart of the city, you don’t have to go far to start your experience

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HUECO TANKS STATE PARK & HISTORIC SITE  World renowned for rock climbing, Hueco Tanks is also known for its many Native American rock paintings and unique geology. Embark on a hike upon one of several trails or enjoy a selfguided tour and views of ancient pictographs. You may also hike, camp and picnic on the grounds. Call 915-857-1135 before visiting. Annual Event: Hueco Tanks Community Fair (October)

FRANKLIN MOUNTAINS STATE PARK  Hike, bike and explore the 26,000 acres of rugged terrain within El Paso’s city limits. With endless trails, activities and sights to experience, the impressive state park offers something for outdoor adventure seekers of all levels. Annual Events: Franklin Mountains Trail Run (January) Puzzler Mountain Bike Race (January) Poppies Festival (March)

GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK  Explore the highest peak in Texas, natural beauty and winding trails a mere two hours away from El Paso. The Guadalupe Mountains make a worthwhile visit with captivating canyons and vistas stretching the park’s 86,000 acres. MAGOFFIN HOME STATE HISTORIC SITE Explore the stories of a multicultural family who actively participated in U.S. expansion and settlement, military service, trade, Civil War turmoil and U.S.Mexico relations within the walls of this 1875 adobe structure.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY VISIT EL PASO

l Paso’s gorgeous mountain landscape makes the perfect playground for adventure. Navigate your way through miles of trails and terrain and admire the endless bounds of natural beauty. With more than 300 days of sunshine, the Sun City serves as a year-round site for outdoor adventure. Whether your plans involve an easy or challenging hike, bird watching, picnicking or rock climbing, El Paso has it all. El Paso’s native friendliness, warm sunshine and untamed mountains will make your trip here the absolute opposite of a themed, fabricated experience.

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TAKE A STEP BACK IN TIME, AND TRAVEL TO A PLACE RICH IN HISTORY — A PLACE WHERE THE OLD WEST MEETS MODERN AMENITIES, AND THERE’S NOT A SINGLE STOPLIGHT High in the Davis Mountains and surrounded by unspoiled vistas of the Chihuahuan Desert, the charming little town of Fort Davis feels far removed from the rest of the world. The town stretches just one mile with most of the family-owned businesses centered around the county courthouse and along the main street (Highway 118). It has the feel of a western frontier town offering a retreat to a simpler past and a chance to soak in the natural surrounding beauty, abundant wildlife and rich history of the area. Fort Davis takes its name from the military post established there in 1854 along the San Antonio-El Paso Road. The fort was manned by

companies of the 8th U.S. Infantry to protect immigrants, freighters and mail coaches from raids by Apache and Comanche Indians in the area. Starting in 1867, the fort was home to four companies of the 9th U.S. Calvary — AfricanAmerican soldiers who became known as Buffalo Soldiers. Fort Davis soon became a major military installation, and the town grew right alongside it, boasting a dairy, lumberyard, bakery, furniture store, several hotels, a mercantile and saloons. Even after the fort closed, the community of Fort Davis grew as a ranching center, and by the early 1900s attracted wealthy vacationers from the Gulf Coast seeking the mild climate of the high desert during the summer. The intriguing history of the area drew more tourists with the designation of the fort as a National Historic Site in 1961. Many of its buildings have been restored, making it one of the best surviving examples of a frontier military post in the Southwest. Stargazers, birdwatchers, cyclists and hikers have sought out the “Highest Town in Texas” for access to the McDonald Observatory and Davis Mountains State Park. More info at fortdavis.com.

Attractions 🅐 DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE PARK & INDIAN LODGE Located four miles north of Fort Davis, this 2,700-acre park offers camping, hiking, picnicking and nature study. Four miles of hiking trails connect to Fort Davis National Historic Site, and two scenic overlooks provide the perfect spots for star gazing. Day and overnight equestrian use is offered. Within the park, the historic, pueblo-style Indian Lodge, built in 1933 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, has a swimming pool, restaurant and gift shop. The park is open yearround, and full RV hookups are available.

🅑 MCDONALD OBSERVATORY A world leader in astronomical research, McDonald Observatory atop Mts. Locke and Fowlkes benefits from some of the darkest night skies in the nation. The Frank N. Bash Visitor Center hosts Star Parties on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday

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evenings and is the starting point for tours and other programs. Informative exhibits can be found at the visitor center along with a gift shop stocked with unique and educational keepsakes. Program capacities are limited and reservations are required. Check the website for public program times and passes: mcdonaldobservatory.org.

🅕 THE OVERLAND TRAIL MUSEUM

🅒 FORT DAVIS NATIONAL

🅖 HISTORIC JEFF DAVIS COUNTY

On the historic San Antonio-El Paso Road, the museum has displays and photographs depicting early life on the western frontier and features a restored pioneer kitchen and early medical equipment. Open by appointment only. Call the Fort Davis Chamber of Commerce and visitor center, 432-426-3015.

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HISTORIC SITE Fort Davis was one the most important posts in frontier defense in the late 1800s with its strategic location at the crossroads of the San Antonio-El Paso Road and the Chihuahuan Trail. nps.gov/foda

COURTHOUSE  Designed by the architectural firm of l. L. Thurman and Co. of Dallas, this building was erected in 1910–1911. 2011 marked the 100th anniversary of this concrete and stone Classical Revival edifice, featuring a massive portico, Doric columns, alternating horizontal bands of pink rusticated stone made of locally quarried materials and a Beaux Arts-style clock tower.

🅓 CHIHUAHUAN DESERT NATURE CENTER The 507-acre Nature Center, an affiliate of the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute, features 20 acres of botanical gardens, a cactus and succulent greenhouse with over 150 species of plants, nearly five miles of hiking trails, including about one and one-half miles within the gardens, a geologic timeline with rock samples from the region, a Heritage Mining Exhibit, and the Powell Visitor Center, which includes exhibits and a gift shop. Modesta Canyon has a year-round spring, and Clayton’s Overlook has an impressive geologic display. There is a new bird blind with a 30-foot water feature, and shelter with side screens for additional viewing and photography. CDRI’s main fundraiser is a chuck wagon cookout and auction, which takes place in August.

Rio Grande

Located four miles SE of Fort Davis on Hwy. 118, the center is open 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Sat., and Sundays 12:30–5:30 p.m. (mid-March through October). cdri. org, (432) 364-2499

🅔 SCENIC LOOP DRIVE A 75-mile drive on the highest public highway in Texas starts in Fort Davis and winds past the Davis Mountain State Park, McDonald Observatory, Mount Livermore, Sawtooth Mountain and the Rock Pile. The route is also ideal for cycling with plenty of spots to rest and picnic, including a large, pineshaded area with tables in Madera Canyon.

Events Check fortdavis.com/events for up-to-date details. TEXAS STAR PARTY Hosted at the Historic Prude Ranch, which is a 3,500acre, mile-high ranch. The event includes local tours, talks and evening programs. texasstarparty.org CYCLEFEST Hosted by the Permian Basin Bicycle Association, Cyclefest has been based in Fort Davis for some 40 years. Cyclefest is a fun ride for anyone, held the third weekend in September. pbbatx.com FRONTIER CHRISTMAS WEEKEND Always the first full weekend of December, festivities include a Christmas parade, a cookie baking contest, photos with Santa, hay rides around historic Fort Davis and kids΄ holiday crafts. THE “COOLEST” 4TH OF JULY Fort Davis provides a true slice of Americana in this annual small-town July 4 celebration dubbed the “coolest” in Texas thanks to the mountain temperatures and year-round dry climate. The community event — which draws visitors from all over — features a parade, a 5K Fun Run, a grito and salsa competition, a cowboy hypnotist, live music, an array of vendors and a dance under the stars. DAVIS MOUNTAINS HUMMINGBIRD CELEBRATION This four-day birding experience offers field trips to unique birding habitats, guest speaking events, workshops, garden tours, banding demonstrations and an outdoor banquet. Held every other August, birders and people who just love hummingbirds can explore the fascinating geology, flora and hummingbirds of the Davis Mountains Sky Islands. The next event is August 2025. To register go to davismountainshummingbirdcelebration.com.

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HOTEL LIMPIA 101 Memorial Square (432) 426-3237 hotellimpia.com

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➊ MOUNTAIN VIEW LODGE & CAFE

CHÂTEAU WRIGHT 125 Blue Mountain Trail (432) 245-0750 chateauwright.com Open 12-7 p.m. Social media:@chateauwright

501 S. Highway 118 (432) 426-3481 mountainviewlodgetx.com Spend quality time with family and friends in our cozy cabins, and gather in the outdoor pavilion featuring gas grills, propane fire pit and games. Mountain Trails Lodge lies just off the scenic loop on the edge of town and boasts dark night skies for stargazing, sweeping views of the high desert mountains and abundant wildlife. Formerly Mountain Trails Lodge.

STONE VILLAGE MARKET AND DELI 509 State St. (432) 426-3941 stonevillagetouristcamp.com Stone Village Market and Deli is any visitor’s “go to” for fresher, healthier choices in sandwiches, prepackaged salads, soups, breads and baked goods. Located three blocks north of the courthouse. Dine in, sit out on the porch or picnic to go.

➋ STONE VILLAGE TOURIST CAMP

Real Estate

509 State St. (432) 426-3941 stonevillagetouristcamp.com

➌ KING LAND & WATER LLC

FORT DAVIS INN & R.V. PARK 1 mile 2201 Texas 17 (800) 80-DAVIS fortdavisinn.com

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HEBERT’S HEIRLOOMS & RESALE 1250 N. State St. MARATHON LANDFILL (432) 426-3141 hebertsheirlooms@yahoo.com

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600 N. State St. (432) 426-2024 kinglandwater.com Offering unparalleled service for buyers and sellers of ranches, unique homes and conservation properties throughout the Lone Star State. Their experience is as vast as the landscape.

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A COMMUNITY ALONG THE RIO GRANDE RIVER NAMED FOR THE SMALL FLAT ROCKS THAT BLANKET THE AREA, BORN OF ANCIENT VOLCANOES AND INLAND SEAS

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ucked between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park, Lajitas boasts a colorful history with a cast of infamous characters, beginning with giant marine reptiles and dinosaurs that roamed these parts over 65 million years ago according to fossils discovered in the vicinity. For centuries, Native Americans traveled through these parts along the Comanche Trail. Spanish explorer Antonio de Espejo used this historic river crossing, also known as Paso Lajitas or San Carlos Ford, around 1582. By the mid-1800s, Anglo-Americans had made their way to this remote location, eventually discovering quicksilver in the 1890s. The area’s booming mines led to the Lajitas Trading Post, which served workers and handled goods and material coming from Mexico. The early 20th century brought a public school, church and U.S. post office to the small community of Lajitas. In 1916, the arrival of Mexican Revolutionary general Pancho Villa — a name that was either worshipped or feared on both sides of the Rio Grande — resulted in the establishment of a military outpost to

protect the strategic mining industry. General John J. “Black Jack” Pershing made an inspection of the area along with his aide Lieutenant George Patton during that time. For decades afterward, the Lajitas property changed owners several times before ending up in the hands of Walter Mischer in 1977. The Houston entrepreneur restored and developed the community, and by the mid-1980s, the western-themed resort was born, complete with a nine-hole golf course, several lodging options and an airstrip. During this time, the quaint community also included an unexpected attraction: Clay Henry III, a beer-drinking goat who even served a term as mayor of the West Texas town. Today, the remote vacation destination is even grander, with an onsite spa, zip-line course and an 18-hole championship golf course that continues to be a top pick by golf and travel publications. Whether you’re drawn to the history, scenery or activities, there are cowboy stories along with miners’ tales of drink and peril in every crevice of the red rock buttes that encircle the area.

COURTESY LAJITAS GOLF RESORT

LAJITAS

LAJITAS GOLF RESORT (432) 424-5000 lajitasgolfresort.com Under new ownership since 2007, this 27,000-acre destination getaway features all the creature comforts and exciting adventures a visitor could want. From the Badlands Hotel to the Cavalry Post to the Boardwalk Condos, the resort boasts 101 well-appointed rooms decorated to match the remote property’s upscale Old West style. Lajitas is on the grow and now offers real estate opportunities that include the new luxury Lakeside Cottages, Boardwalk Condos or build-to-suit lots. Whether an investor looking for a return on investment via the Lajitas Golf Resort rental pool or those looking to make Lajitas their next home, with over 27,000 acres, there are a variety of options. Email realestate@lajitasgolfresort.com for more information.

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MAVERICK RANCH RV PARK (432) 424-5182 With over 100 sites including 60 pull-throughs, full hookups and amenities including shower facilities, swimming pool, laundry, TV room, dog park and more, Maverick Ranch is the ideal destination for the Big Bend region adventure seekers. Guests of the Maverick Ranch RV Park enjoy all of Lajitas Golf Resort amenities and activities, including Agave Spa, Black Jack’s Crossing golf course, trail rides, shooting activities, zip-lining Quiet Canyon and more.

BLACK JACK’S CROSSING GOLF COURSE This 18-hole championship golf course designed by Ryder Cup Captain Lanny Wadkins has been voted the “Best Course You Can Play in Texas” by the Dallas Morning News for the past six straight years, and Golfweek also ranks BJC the number one golf course you can play among all public access courses in Texas. The course winds through the mountains, canyon and desert, capturing the beauty and drama of the Big Bend region while offering challenging golf for all skill levels.

Attractions

EQUESTRIAN TRAIL RIDES Guided horseback rides work their way through hilly and desert terrain, offering sweeping views of the Big Bend wilderness. Riders can enjoy sunrise or sunset excursions, as well as one-hour, two-hour and half-day trail outings.

AGAVE SPA There’s no better place to relax and unwind in the high Chihuahuan Desert than this luxurious spa on the Lajitas Golf Resort property. Sit back and enjoy a massage, facial or body treatment using herbal ingredients and stones native to the region.

LAJITAS BOARDWALK The Lajitas Boardwalk offers a collection of interesting shops and venues to ex-

plore, including Red Rock Outfitters and Christina’s World for local and regional gifts, the Flat Rock Theater providing a cool afternoon escape and Licha’s Bakery with fresh-baked pastries. SHOOTING ACTIVITIES The remote southwest Texas desert provides a gorgeous backdrop for a variety of shooting activities available in Lajitas. Aim at sporting clays using a 12- or 20-gauge shotgun, or participate in a cowboy action shoot equipped with a shotgun, singleaction pistol or lever-action rifle. A combat course designed by a military veteran who served in Iraq simulates a run through an interactive environment. ZIP-LINE TOUR A world-class zip-line tour of Quiet Canyon is a perfect way for adrenaline junkies to enjoy the breathtaking surroundings of the Big Bend area. Nine zip lines take riders from the upper canyon to the canyon floor. Three tour options available.

GOLF COURSE PHOTO BY DENNIS MURPHY-D SQUARED PRODUCTIONS, INC.; REMAINING PHOTOS COURTESY LAJITAS GOLF RESORT

Lodging

Marathon Where the BiG Bend and Dark Skies Meet

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COURTESY VISIT MARATHON TEXAS

ust 40 miles north of the entrance to Big Bend National Park sits Marathon — a quaint community that boasts a delightful climate, beautiful surroundings and friendly people. Situated in what is known as the Magnificent Marathon Basin and centrally located to many of the area’s unique attractions, Marathon hosts a range of folks — from astronomers gazing at the night sky to biking or birding enthusiasts to Big Bend hikers and explorers. One feature visitors can’t help but notice is the expansive starry sky over Marathon, which attracts astronomers and stargazers. Thanks to its remote geographic location, elevation and small size, the town has earned the rare dis-

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tinction as an established, functional community under a “Class 1 Dark Sky.” (That’s as dark as it gets!) Though increasing light pollution prevents surrounding communities from holding the same distinction, Marathon residents and businesses intentionally protect the breathtaking view and their dark sky status from the intrusion of exterior lights. Marathon’s historic main street village sits a half-mile west of the Highway 385 turnoff to Big Bend National Park. Anchored by the legendary Gage Hotel, the city center includes shops, restaurants, galleries, groceries and accommodations to suit every taste and need. Railroad and ranching — two industries that founded the town — are still an important part of the local economy.

Starting at the center of town, Post Road runs south for five miles to Post Park — the site of a former cavalry post known as Camp Peña Colorado in the late 1800s. With very little traffic and fabulous views, this stretch is ideal for running, walking and biking. Wildlife such as deer, javelinas, turkey, jackrabbits, quail and even an occasional fox can be seen in the early morning or around sunset. Post Park itself boasts a beautiful, secluded pond and county park on the Peña Colorado Creek shaded by cottonwood trees and surrounded by the Caballos Novaculite Mountains. The historic spot is popular in birding circles as one of the few accessible sources of spring water in the Big Bend region. It also hosts the longest running community event in the Big Bend area: the

Independence Day dance. Stunning geologic features surround Marathon, including the bluntness of Iron Mountain to the northwest and the lightness of the northern Glass Mountains, one of the few exposed uplifted coral reefs in Texas. While in Marathon, you’ll stand on some of the oldest rocks from the Paleozoic age (250– 600 million years ago). The Marathon Uplift exposes the Ouachita Mountains of Arkansas and Oklahoma that were heaved up during the formation of the ancient supercontinent of Pangaea. Roadcuts east of town along Highway 90 and south on Highway 385 expose onlookers to spectacular features such as strike-slip faults, unusual folding and fossil fragments. Should you decide to make Marathon your destination, or BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 43

For more information, visit marathontexas.com, themarathonfoundation.org and visitbigbend.com, as well as the Visit Marathon Texas Facebook page and Instagram account. instagram.com/visitmarathontexas www.facebook.com/marathontexas

Attractions CAMP PEÑA COLORADO (POST PARK) Five miles south of town, this shady oasis known simply as “The Post” was the original town site. Its location on the Comanche Trail necessitated the establishment of a cavalry post there. Although very little remains of the army post, it nevertheless gives the spot its current name. It is a popular location for dances, picnics and fishing, and is one of the best birding sites in the region. MARATHON TEXAS CEMETERY Located off Post Road on the south side of town, the historic Marathon Cemetery has been in use since 1902. The peaceful grounds record the lives of early Marathon residents and is still in use today. HALLIE STILLWELL HALL OF FAME MUSEUM Located 39 miles south on Highway 385 and six miles east on FM 2627, this 44 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

area for a community dance and CASIsponsored chili cook-off benefiting the Marathon Volunteer Fire Department. Other weekend events include a barbecue lunch, fun “dog and pony show,” parade on Main Street, live music and a fireworks show. VIVA BIG BEND The Viva Big Bend music festival takes place the last weekend of July and has brought live music to various locations in Marathon, including the Gage Hotel and French Co. Grocer.

family museum honors the memory of legendary ranch woman, teacher and author Hallie Stillwell. Call before going as their hours vary. (432) 3762244. GAGE GARDEN AND NATURE TRAIL Gage Hotel’s expansive landscaped garden encompasses 27 acres and includes meandering walking and running trails, ponds, a lavender field, rose garden and blooming indigenous plants that flourish year-round attracting area birds and butterflies. The garden serves as an event venue for Gage weddings and private parties, but is open to the public daily. BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK Marathon is the northern and eastern gateway to Big Bend National Park. A 40-minute drive takes you to the park entrance, where you are greeted with breathtaking desert vistas. After another 45-minute drive inside the park, you can find yourself in the cool, high Chisos Mountains Basin with a view across the river into Mexico.

are also available. Hours: Monday-Friday, 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. 106 NE 3rd Street, (432) 386-4136, www.marathonpubliclibrary.org MARATHON SKY PARK AT THE MARATHON MOTEL A unique concept/development to enhance the experience of visiting astronomy enthusiasts. Amenities include Wi-Fi, three concrete pads with 110 outlets and a shade cloth barrier to prevent any stray light intrusion. On most clear skied nights after dark, the park’s amateur astronomer will get out his telescopes and share his knowledge. Donations for his time go to improvements of the site and telescopes. (432) 386-4241

Events INDEPENDENCE DAY DANCE & CHILI COOK-OFF Held the weekend of the first Saturday in July, this event has been an influential part of Brewster County culture since its start in the early 1900s. Post Park hosts visitors from around the

WEST FEST AND CABRITO COOK-OFF Held the third weekend of September, cooks vie for the top prize with cabrito (goat) specialties. You are invited to help judge not just cabrito, but other tasty West Texas treats such as steak, salsa, chicken, ribs, brisket, dessert and margaritas! Family friendly activities include washer pitching, cake walk, silent and live benefit auctions, live music and a dance. Benefitting local causes, including the Marathon Volunteer Fire Department. MARATHON 2 MARATHON Held the fourth weekend in October, the annual 5K, 10K, half and full marathons take place each year on the Highway 385 course. Registrants can enjoy a pre-run pasta dinner at the Gage Hotel and a post-race fire department fundraiser lunch, awards presentation, dancing at the Marathon Motel and evening star party. www.marathon2marathon.net FIESTA DE NOCHE BUENA Taking place the first weekend of December, Noche Buena (literally “the Good Night”) is the Spanish word for Christmas Eve. The evening consists of a family feast and is celebrated in many places around the world. This community event begins at dusk.

SPA AT THE GAGE HOTEL The luxury spa at the historic Gage Hotel offers the ultimate in relaxation with massages, body treatments, facials and more. 102 W. Hwy 90, (800) 884-GAGE, www.gagehotel.com MARATHON PUBLIC LIBRARY The Marathon Public Library provides the community with the opportunity to borrow books and DVDs in a variety of genres. Printing services, Wi-Fi and programs for both adults and children

PHOTOS BY STEPHANIE WINSTON

when you’re ready to head down the road, you’re an easy distance from just about anywhere in the area. Alpine is a mere 30 miles, and another 26 miles will get you to either Marfa or Fort Davis. But if you’re like most, you’ll probably head south to Big Bend National Park. Good news: Marathon is closer to the park than any other town in the region at just 42 miles. Marathon also offers a wide array of short-term rentals, which can be found under lodging on the marathontexas.com website. Many of the properties can also be accessed through Airbnb, Home Away and Vrbo (Vacation Rentals By Owner). Marathon is sitting pretty as the locals’ haven and visitors’ uncovered jewel, just a hop, skip and a jump from all that welcomes visitors to far West Texas and its little corner of heaven.

Galleries and shops open, seasonal snacks are shared, and the holiday tree is lit! You can get in the holiday spirit joining in with Christmas caroling and hay rides. Mr. and Mrs. Santa make an appearance. MARATHON FISH FRY This fish fry fundraiser happens the second Saturday of February and goes to make Post Park more user-friendly and to other local attractions (varies each year).

DARK SKIES FESTIVAL DURING THE NEW MOON WEEKEND This festival in April will celebrate Marathon’s dark skies with a variety of astronomy-related programs and activities, music and more on the grounds of Marathon Motel and RV Park.

Lodging ADOBE HACIENDA / ORTEGA HOUSE (432) 603-7333

Seven separate, colorful, hand-built guest rooms (each with a private bath) surround a lush garden courtyard. Includes guest courtesy room and full organic breakfast.

CASA LA VISTA (432) 386-2222 Be impressed by a rustic exterior. Inside all the comforts of home await you!

GAGE HOTEL (800) 884-GAGE Built in 1927 by famed architect Henry Trost, the recently restored Gage Hotel offers sophisticated laidback luxury at the “Gateway to the Big Bend.”

CASA VIEJA (310) 560-8758 A gorgeously restored home that was originally an old farmhouse built in 1917. CASA WILMA (432) 386-2222 Solitude, beauty, escape. 8TH STREET ROCK HOUSE (281) 734-6796 The 8th Street Rock House is a onebedroom, one-bath house with a large eat-in kitchen and sleeps four. EVE’S GARDEN ORGANIC BED & BREAKFAST (432) 386-4165

HIDDEN DAGGER ADVENTURES 512-788-1707 hiddendaggeradventures.com Hidden Dagger Adventures has lodging options and also leads trips on the privately owned Dead Horse Mountain Ranch and Big Bend region. LA LOMA DEL CHIVO HOSTEL (432) 244-7144 Enjoy a stay at this quirky hostel with its rambling alternative buildings made using recycled material, cans, bottles and paper.

STEPHANIE WINSTON

THE BLAS PLAYNE (817) 938-4498

One of, if not the, oldest homes in Marathon. This historical house has been lovingly restored with close attention to retaining the character of a 100-plus-year-old adobe.

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Hours: 7 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday through Friday (sometimes open on Saturdays) Grab a burger to go while getting gas on your way to Big Bend! Breakfast burritos, hamburgers, Mexican food, chicken sandwiches, fries, grilled cheese, cold drinks and beer. BRICK VAULT BREWERY & BARBECUE 100 N. 1st Street (432) 386-7538 Open Thursday and Friday from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. and dining until 8:30 p.m. or until food sells out. Saturday from noon to 10 p.m. and dining until 8:30 p.m. or until food sells out. Sunday from noon to 3 p.m. or until food sells out. The Brick Vault opened in 2018 and serves up award-winning barbecue and craft beer — a great combination for the weary traveler.

Eve’s Garden Organic Bed & Breakfast

MARATHON MOTEL AND RV PARK (432) 386-4241 Established in 1940, the recently renovated Marathon Motel features private cabins and full RV hookups complete with water, 30/50 amp electricity, sewer and cable television. The entrance is easy to navigate.

SUNSET HOUSE (512) 844-0100 Unobstructed views of sunrises and sunsets from the 700-square-foot porch. The studio is well laid out for up to four guests.

MCGONAGILL HOUSE (432) 386-9755 Enjoy a local ranching family’s historic home, built in the 1940s. Roomy and cozy.

Food and Drink

MY ADOBE HACIENDA/ MONROE PAYNE (830) 719-6067 Visit this historic home of Monroe Payne. Built more than 100 years ago, this adobe has been lovingly restored and provided with modern amenities making you feel at home.

FROM TOP: JACK HOLLINGSWORTH; JASON RISNER

RANCHO VILLA GUEST HOUSES (512) 423-2695 This adobe ranch house has mesmerizing mountain views from its numerous porches and patios. SNUG HARBOR Three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a large kitchen with appliances and two covered porches with an outdoor living room plus hammocks make this spacious getaway a home away from home. See www.MarathonTexas.com for more info.

TERRAZAS ADOBE (303) 969-4646

FRENCH CO. GROCER 206 N. Avenue D (432) 386-4522 frenchcogrocer.com Open from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily This quaint local store stocks classic grocery staples, natural foods, beer and wine, as well as camping supplies, gifts and artisan wares. The deli offers homemade sandwiches, salads, bread, cookies and coffee.

V6 COFFEE BAR 109 NE 1st St. (432) 308-6877 Open daily from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Hearty breakfast and a bistro-style lunch with beer, wine and full espresso menu.

Art Galleries

E. DAN KLEPPER GALLERY 105 N. Avenue D (432) 386-6789 edanklepper.com Open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. E. Dan Klepper is a fine artist, photographer and writer exhibiting his largescale works of photo-based art and sculpture at Klepper Gallery. His book of fine art photography and essays titled Why the Raven Calls the Canyon can also be found at the gallery.

Shopping RAILROAD LIQUORS 103 NE 1st St 432-249-2021 Home to a wide selection of spirits, wine and beer. V6 COLLECTION GIFTS 109 NE 1st St. (432) 308-6877 Open Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. The Gage Hotel’s uniquely curated collection of local art, area books and hand-crafted decor.

transportation TRANS-PECOS JEEPS

EVANS GALLERY 21 N. 1st St. E. (432) 386-4366 jameshevans.com If you don’t see someone in the shop, give James a call, and he’ll stop by. The longest-running gallery in the Big Bend, featuring the photographs of James H. Evans. Evans has been operating out of Marathon since 1988 and is the author of Big Bend Pictures (in its 3rd printing) and Crazy from the Heat.

(432) 294-6043 Trans-PecosJeeps.com Trans-Pecos Jeeps is a car rental company based in Alpine and offers a fleet of late model ’21–’22 Jeep Gladiators in Mojave and Rubicon trims. All car rentals include 250 miles per day and they can deliver Jeeps to the Alpine Amtrak Station, Alpine Airport, Fort Davis, Marfa (including the Marfa Airport), Marathon, Study Butte and Terlingua.

12 GAGE RESTAURANT & WHITE BUFFALO BAR  In the Gage Hotel - 101 Hwy 90 West (432) 386-4205 gagehotel.com The bar is open daily from 3 p.m. until 11 p.m. (or midnight if they’re having fun!). Restaurant seating is from 6 p.m. with last seating at 9:40 p.m. on weekends and 8:40 p.m. on weekdays. Extraordinary Texas-inspired fine dining and bar experience. J&G GRILL Located inside the J&G Alon convenience store, 901 Hwy. 90 West (432) 386-4238

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ART, MUSIC AND CULTURE CAN ALL BE FOUND IN THIS WEST TEXAS OASIS

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the enigmatic city of Marfa sits in the high desert of Texas, surrounded by distant mountains in daylight and mysterious ghost lights at night. Fittingly named after a character in a novel, Marfa has a history of attracting creative spirits. Founded as a railroad water stop in the 1880s, the city limits are still bound on all sides by working cattle ranches, many still operated by their original descendants. On any given day you can find these natives in one of the many fine restaurants, businesses or events Marfa offers, along with visitors from all over the world. On the surface, it’s a typical rural town — a main street, a courthouse, churches and unique homes. Look deeper and you will find restaurants and art collections to rival New York or Berlin, a hotel filled with movie stars’ memories and unrivaled eclectic accommodations. This close-knit and diverse community takes pride in its rich cultural past, and makes deep investments in the future by way of volunteerism and community involvement. Until the 1970s, Marfa was best known for the ghost lights and as the film location for James Dean’s final picture, Giant, also starring Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor and Dennis Hopper.

The classically beautiful Hotel Paisano served as the center of activity during the making of the movie. Now, the well-appointed rooms offer modern conveniences while preserving the spirit of its past. If you are unable to stay there, a visit is a must — sit by a roaring fireplace in the lobby or enjoy the outside courtyard and fountain. In 1971, Donald Judd, the renowned minimalist artist, moved to Marfa from New York City with the intention of permanently installing art. Since Judd’s death in 1994, two foundations have been working to maintain his legacy: the Chinati Foundation and Judd Foundation. The Chinati Foundation now occupies more than 10 buildings and has on permanent exhibit work by such artists as John Chamberlain and Dan Flavin. While in Marfa, don’t forget to find your way to the viewing station east of town where you can study the mystery of the Marfa ghost lights as they dance across the foothills of the Chinati Mountains. Seen by the earliest settlers to the area, they continue to mystify travelers and passersby and are part of the continuing enigma and magic that is Marfa. It’s impossible to capture the magic of Marfa in just a few pages. For more, go to visitmarfa. com or call (432) 729-4772.

COURTESY CITY OF MARFA

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Marfa’s Mystery Ghost Lights were first documented by rancher Robert Ellison in 1883. Many theories about the source of these curious lights abound, but no one has ever been able to fully explain the phenomenon. Swamp gas, phosphorescent mineral displays, ball lightning, UFOs and wandering spirits of Apache ancestors have been proposed. Whatever the cause, these playful lights above Mitchell Flat are an enduring attraction. You’ll find a roadside park and viewing center complete with restroom facilities, picnic tables and long-range viewing devices along Highway 90 just eight miles east of town.

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COURTHOUSE  Built in 1886, the Goddess of Justice stands atop this elegant Second Empire-style domed structure that was restored in 2001. A climb to the cupola provides a 360-degree panoramic view of the Marfa Plateau, Chinati Peak and nearby Davis Mountains. Hours are 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Monday through Friday.

🅒 MARFA AND PRESIDIO COUNTY MUSEUM Housed in an 1880s adobe known as the HumphrisHumphreys House, this museum features displays of Giant, the Chihuahuan Desert, local military and county history, and a collection of panoramic photography by Frank Duncan. Hours 1–5 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

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MARFA MUNICIPAL GOLF COURSE The highest golf course in Texas, situated at 4,882 feet above sea level, this 9-hole course offers not only well-kept greens but also 360-degree views of blue mountains and open ranchland. It is a wonderfully manicured surprise in the middle of the desert mountains. (432) 729-4043.

Art CHINATI FOUNDATION , JUDD FOUNDATION AND BALLROOM MARFA

PRADA MARFA Prada Marfa, by artists Elmgreen & Dragset, is one of the most iconic site-specific artworks in the world. Modeled after a Prada boutique, the sculpture houses luxury goods from the famed brand’s fall 2005 collection of bags and shoes in what some refer to as “the middle of nowhere.” Don’t blink and miss this landmark just west of Valentine, Texas, on Highway 90, a quick 30-minute drive from Marfa.

Events Call or check websites to find out the current status.

CHINATI WEEKEND Chinati Weekend invites the local community as well as friends and colleagues from across the country and around the world to come to Chinati for a weekend of open viewing of the permanent collection, special exhibitions, talks and music — all offered free to the public. www.chinati.org

TRANS-PECOS FESTIVAL OF MUSIC + LOVE The annual Trans-Pecos Festival of Music + Love takes place in September and imports music and fun to Marfa. El Cosmico offers alternative lodging options to travelers in the forms of renovated vintage trailers, yurts, a teepee and campsites.

MARFA LIGHTS FESTIVAL The Marfa Lights Festival takes place each Labor Day weekend, with many of the activities surrounding the historic Presidio County Courthouse. The festival begins on Friday when food and craft vendors open their booths. Saturday morning starts with a 5K walk/ run and a parade down Highland Avenue. Live music is featured throughout the weekend.

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Excursions FORT DAVIS — MCDONALD OBSERVATORY A drive through the Davis Mountains offers a peek into the past and beyond into outer space. McDonald Observatory’s world-class instruments give a look into deep space, and offer fascinating tours of the grounds, telescopes and “star parties” that rival anything you’ve seen or done before.

PINTO CANYON Some of the most scenic West Texas views imaginable await you on the FM 2810/Pinto Canyon Road out of Marfa. Great for cars, road bikes or by foot, take an adventure along sprawling ranches toward the Chinati Mountains on this low-traffic ranch road.

RIVER ROAD Scenic doesn’t begin to describe the wonders along the route that follows the Rio Grande to Big Bend Ranch State Park and Big Bend National Park. Whether it’s a history tour of Fort Leaton outside of Presidio or the mining “ghost town” of Terlingua, River Road is picturesque at every turn. You’ll want to factor in time to make plenty of stops.

Lodging ➊ HOTEL PAISANO  207 N. Highland (432) 729-3669 hotelpaisano.com A historic hotel with 41 rooms, fantastic gift shop and a heated pool. The Paisano hosted the stars of the movie Giant and now serves as the social headquarters for Marfa. Enjoy patio dining by the fountain at Jett’s Grill with views of the exquisite Trost architecture.

THUNDERBIRD HOTEL 601 W. San Antonio St. (432) 729-7777 thunderbirdmarfa.com The Thunderbird Hotel is a quiet boutique hotel with

26 stylish rooms. The outdoor courtyard has plenty of shade at the poolside cabana by day, and fire pits for socializing on cool nights.

EL COSMICO 802 S. Highland Ave. (432) 729-1950 elcosmico.com El Cosmico is a unique bohemian hotel and one of the most iconic places to stay in West Texas. Enjoy a stay in a spacious yurt, cozy safari tents or one of many unique trailers, each decked out with its own personality and comfort in mind.

HOTEL SAINT GEORGE 105 S. Highland Ave. (432) 729-3700 marfasaintgeorge.com Marfa’s newest and most modern hotel offers 55 rooms with fine design and attention to detail. La Venture, the Saint George’s in-house restaurant, offers a full bar and delicious meals for guests of the hotel and visitors to Marfa.

Food and Drink WATER STOP 1300 W. San Antonio St. Open 7 days a week, 11 a.m. -3 p.m., 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m. A small but excellent menu of fine diner food. The chicken and waffles never disappoint, and you’ll want to add a fresh juice, iced coffee or one of their specialty cocktails. Stylish indoor or relaxing patio dining available.

CONVENIENCE WEST BARBEQUE 1411 W. San Antonio St. conveniencewest.com Friday-Saturday, 5 p.m.-sold out Convenience West takes its place among Texas’s famed barbecue joints. The perfectly seasoned and slow smoked meats are the star of the show, but it’s the unique take on traditional sides that sets CW apart.

COURTESY CITY OF MARFA

are three nonprofit art spaces at the hub of Marfa culture. Occupying much of former Fort D.A. Russell, the Chinati Foundation is a contemporary art museum founded by the artist Donald Judd, with permanent installations by 13 artists. The Judd Foundation offers guided visits of Donald Judd’s formerly private live and work spaces. Ballroom Marfa features revolving exhibits of international acclaimed artists, along with numerous music events and performances throughout the year. Reservations are required for all three, so book before you go! www.chinati.org, www.juddfoundation.org, www.ballroommarfa.org

COCHINEAL 107 W. San Antonio St. cochinealmarfa.com A sleek and sophisticated restaurant with a rotating menu of fine dining. Indoor and outdoor seating and an incredible cocktail bar make for a perfectly intimate experience.

MARFA BURRITO 515 S. Highland St. Monday-Saturday, 6 a.m. - 2 p.m. Marfa Burrito is a staple and a must-visit for those in the know. Ramona’s burritos will stick to your ribs and power a day of art viewing and shopping.

PLANET MARFA 200 S. Abbot St. Planet Marfa is a favorite hangout for visitors and locals alike. Live music, karaoke, and guest chefs rotate through this funky and fun beer garden on a regular basis. Great conversations and stories to take home await.

Shopping WRONG MARFA 110 Highland St. wrongmarfa.com Open 7 days a week, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. Wrong Marfa is owned by long-time Marfa residents and artists. Part store, part gallery, all fun, there is always something that will tickle your fancy at Wrong.

COMMUNITIE 122 Highland St. Open 7 days a week, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. Communitie is the perfect Marfa mix of minimalist aesthetic and West Texas sensibility. This is where you will find all the necessities, like wide-brimmed hats, bolo ties and a simple silk slip dress. Dogs welcome!

MARFA BOOK COMPANY 300 South Kelly St. marfabookco.com The go-to resource for west Texas literature, art and events in Marfa. Visit their website for a schedule of events and most up-to-date hours.

transportation TRANS-PECOS JEEPS (432) 294-6043 Trans-PecosJeeps.com Trans-Pecos Jeeps is a car rental company based in Alpine and offers a fleet of late model ’21–’22 Jeep Gladiators in Mojave and Rubicon trims. All car rentals include 250 miles per day and they can deliver Jeeps to the Alpine Amtrak Station, Alpine Airport, Fort Davis, Marfa (including the Marfa Airport), Marathon, Study Butte and Terlingua.

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Presidio

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residio sits on the borderland of Texas and Mexico, where locals often say, “the River has never divided us.” The two largest rivers in this region of the Big Bend join one another here in Presidio: the Rio Grande and Rio Conchos. It has a long and documented past as a cultural crossroads and has served as a traveler destination for centuries. Native tribes and early settlers were drawn to the rich soil of the area historically known as “La Junta de los Rios.” Water is life, and that truth is accentuated here in the unique landscape of the Chihuahuan Desert. The first Spanish explorers came to Presidio in the 16th century and continued to settle the area by establishing numerous missions and garrisons. The La Junta floodplain of the Rio Grande has given the area a long history of continuous settlement, trade, and humans finding inspiration from the Rio to carve out pathways for themselves in the desert. Presidio garners its name from the 52 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

historic Mexican fortress of Presidio del Norte, whose ruins are in present-day Ojinaga, Mexico. Each highway that leads to Presidio offers magnificent views along the Texas Mountain Trail. Heading south from the city of Marfa on US 67, sweeping views of the wide-open spaces and big skies make the route a panorama of brilliant colors at sunrise and sunset. For scenery-seekers, Presidio acts as the gateway to the western entrance of Big Bend Ranch State Park; visitors can check in to the park through Presidio’s own Fort Leaton State Historic Site, a fortified trading post established on the Chihuahuan Trail in 1848. If you’re coming from Big Bend National Park through Big Bend Ranch State Park on FM 170, you’ll be driving a route that National Geographic has named one of the top 10 most scenic drives in the United States. Famously called the “River Road,” the section between Lajitas and Presidio in Big Bend Ranch State Park parallels the Rio Grande closely for 27 miles, as both the river and

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the road curve, climb and fall through the borderland mountains of Mexico and the United States. The steepest climb on River Road will take you up and over the “Big Hill” of the Bofecillos Mountains, where the Rio Grande valley unfolds beneath the sheer volcanic cliffs across the border. Like the river, oral tradition and storytelling culture have shaped the Big Bend region over the course of generations. However, one story has no place in Presidio-Ojinaga culture: that borderlands are scary and dangerous places. Presidio has regularly ranked as one of the safest towns in Texas. If you look beneath the surface, you’ll find that the International Port of Entry is patrolled by U.S. Customs and Border Protection and acts as the gateway to some of the best shopping in the region. Grab your passport and make the drive across the border! Once you arrive in Ojinaga, Mexico, population 30,000, you’ll have your pick of authentic Mexican restaurants and shops that sell colorful local wares.

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amazing illustrations at the Panaderia Don Jose and at the new Presidio Pour-over Coffee Shop, located at 600 W. O’Reilly St. Another artist to create a mural is Mariell Guzman, whose piece celebrates the natural beauty of the Chihuahuan Desert in an array of beautiful bright colors. Her art can be viewed next to Harper Hardware down O’Reilly Street in downtown. Our latest artist to leave his mark is Jorge Avena with a mural on the wall of A&C Furniture store in downtown across from Family Dollar, featuring the “La Junta People”, a take on the rich indigenous culture of the area. Visitors can also appreciate traditional architecture and building techniques, as featured in local adobe structures including the historic Santa Teresa de Jesus Church and the American Legion Post 176, both erected over 100 years ago.

Remember Seeing Stars at Night?

One of the Big Bend Ranch State Park’s greatest assets is that it is designated a part of the Greater Big Bend Dark Sky Reserve, the largest in the world. With a city resolution in place, the visibility of the night sky is protected from outdoor light pollution, which allows for great views of the black canopy overhead. At night, stare upward and you’ll find a view that’s breathtaking, like you’ve never seen in the big cities. On Fridays in August, Presidio celebrates this view with singer-songwriters at the Dark Skies Music Festival at the American Legion Post 176 in Presidio. www.bigbenddarkskyreserve.org

Attractions 🅐 ST. FRANCIS PLAZA If you’d like suggestions on what to do and see in Ojinaga, do not hesitate to ask a Presidio local. Search far and wide, and it is likely that you will not find a friendlier community to visit. Through thousands of years of continuous settlement, the people of Presidio have cultivated a culture of hospitality and family that is as rich and genuine as the soil of La Junta de los Rios. An example of great adobe soil architecture is the American Legion Post No.176 building, established in 1933, which has been remodeled and is now open. The legion is a nonprofit organization whose members volunteered to restore the face of Santa Teresa de Jesus church, built in 1912, and is home to a parish that is known as the home of the first Christmas celebration in Texas, in 1683. Visit the restaurants and stores in Presidio and you will find that no one remains a stranger here very long. The people who live here, sharing ideas, history and community, are happy to help you discover the borderlands culture that is so unique to Presidio.

HANNAH GENTILES

Art and Culture

Presidio hosts a rich art and cultural scene, noticeable from the moment you enter town. Presidio's new water tower can be seen as you enter town on Highway 67, with its historic name: “La Junta de los Rios.” The city’s old water tower features a mural painted by world renowned street muralist El Mac. Presidio is also home of La Junta Heritage Center, a nonprofit organization developed in the memory of A. Kelly Pruitt, a Texas artist who’s been featured in Who’s Who in American Art. Several examples of Pruitt’s work can be seen in local Presidio businesses. Various other murals have been contributed by local artists, such as Laurie Holman. One mural honoring “The Lady in Blue” represents the First Christmas in Texas, which, according to local legend, took place in Presidio in 1683. Also, local artist Ramon Deanda created two

The plaza is an oasis of shade, fountains and greenery in downtown Presidio. The Farmers Market is held every Saturday morning.

🅑 SANTA TERESA DE JESUS CHURCH Est. 1683 on O’Reilly Street, the church was rededicated in October 1983 in its tricentennial year.

🅒 FORT LEATON STATE HISTORIC SITE Visit one of the largest fortified adobe structures in Texas. Constructed in 1848 after the Treaty of Guadalupe-Hidalgo, Fort Leaton served as the sole supply depot for a 500-mile stretch of the Rio Grande and held a prominent place on the Chihuahua Trail. Interpretive exhibits highlight the area history and day to day life in the 1800s. Fort Leaton also serves as the western visitor center for Big Bend Ranch State Park. (432) 229-3613, www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/ fort-leaton

🅓 BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK This massive park of almost 300,000 acres flanks the “River Road” and features trailheads, small recreation areas, primitive camping and river access points. (432) 358- 4444, www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/ big-bend-ranch

🅔 FM 170 WEST — MOTORCYCLE RIDE TO RUIDOSA AND CHINATI HOT SPRINGS About 36 miles northwest of Presidio on FM 170, Ruidosa, a once thriving agricultural community, today is home to a general store. Also at the end of FM 170 is Candelaria, a beautiful drive often not seen by most visitors. The Chinati Hot Springs features constant 110-degree, mineral-rich waters that have been regarded for their healing qualities for well over 100 years. As you drive upriver you will see the Texas Historical Marker for the Chinati Cemetery locally known as Los Indios Cemetery. Visit the historic Ruidosa Church, El Corazon Sagrado de la Iglesia de Jesus, and its unique adobe arches, crafted by the Ruidosa community in 1915. www.chinatihotsprings.net

🅕 SHAFTER Twenty miles north of Presidio on Highway 67 are the remains of a once prosperous silver mining town. Extensive ruins are visible, though fenced against trespassing. The Shafter Cemetery features aboveground rock burials, some of which date back to the 1880s. Shafter is Texas’ only working silver mine, operated by Rio Grande Mining Company. 🅖 OJINAGA, MEXICO An easy drive across the international bridge, Ojinaga welcomes visitors with a variety of excellent restaurants and shops, a casual atmosphere and friendly, helpful locals. The cultural museum is a must-see on the road from the international bridge. Bring passport to cross and re-enter. facebook.com/ojinaga.chih.mx 🅗 LA JUNTA DE LOS RIOS The future home of La Junta Heritage Center is under development. La Junta de los Rios is a historic farming and trading area at the junction of the Rio Grande (called Rio del Norte by the Spanish) and the Rio Conchos. 🅘 ELEPHANT ROCK & PROFILE OF LINCOLN This bizarre rock structure can be viewed from Highway 67 just outside of Shafter. Another favorite rock novelty, the profile of Lincoln can be viewed from Highway 67 just north of Presidio. 🅙 PRESIDIO AQUATIC CENTER Pool open from Memorial Day to Labor Day (709 E. O’Reilly St.). Beat the heat in a pool designed for all ages, zero entry to 8.5-foot diving area. Featuring a 90-foot, figure-eight slide and other water features to get you wet. Bathhouse and showers, great place to cool off after adventures in the Big Bend. www. presidiotx.us 🅚 PRESIDIO ATHLETIC COMPLEX The Presidio Athletic Complex can be found at 1144 E. O’Reilly. Where baseball is king – and visitors are welcome! BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 53

🅛 PRESIDIO/OJINAGA INTERNATIONAL PORT OF ENTRY 99400 Highway 67, (432) 229-3349 Go through the port of entry to visit Presidio’s sister city, Ojinaga, and enjoy a unique tourism opportunity. The expansion of the bridge is in progress to improve international tourism and trade with Mexico. For ease in crossing, bring your passport. Friendly community with good food and shopping. U.S. currency accepted in most places. U.S. Customs and Border Protection, open to traffic 24/7.

🅜 A BIKER’S DELIGHT: FM 170 EAST (RIVER ROAD) National Geographic magazine calls FM 170 to Presidio one of the “Top 10 Scenic Highways in North America” and RideTexas.com Reader’s Choice calls it the “Best Road Next to a River.” On two wheels or more, River Road is an adventure with side roads and stops to explore.

🅝 PRESIDIO AMERICAN LEGION 176 905 O'Reilly St. facebook.com/americanlegion.presidio. texas Established 1933. Bar and grill open now to all visitors.

🅞 EL CEMENTERIO DEL BARRIO DE LOS LIPANES (1790) Located within the town at the intersection of Barton Avenue and Market Street. A sacred site to Indigenous peoples of La Junta that became the final resting place of the Lipan Apache beginning in the 1790s, when Spanish colonial government named the area a peace settlement. The site is a Texas Antiquities Landmark; a protection project is currently underway in collaboration with MASS Design Group and includes a Texas Historical Marker.

🅟 DALY PARK 107 Edmundo Nieto St. & Commerce St. Located behind Harper Hardware store. Complete with picnic tables, grills, playground, musical instruments, swings, a teeter-totter for kids and elderly exercise equipment. B.J. BISHOP WETLANDS Frequented by birders, to see both songbirds and waterfowl. Late March through mid-May and late August through mid-October are migration seasons during which birders can view even more varieties as they pass 54 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

through the area to seek seasonal habitats (26 acres). Located one-half mile from Fort Leaton on FM 170 East.

Events Call or check websites for current status. FOURTH OF JULY An annual celebration is held at a city-designated area. Includes a fireworks show, food vendors and fun for the whole family. Admission free. Vendors, please contact City Hall at (432) 229-3517 for details. BLUEBONNET MUSIC SERIES Enjoy the spring weather outside with singer-songwriters performing on Friday evenings at 8 p.m. in March at the American Legion Post 176 at 905 O’Reilly St. Presidio. Admission is free. PRESIDIO’S MULTICULTURAL FESTIVAL Celebrate what makes Presidio great — its multi-cultural atmosphere. Visitors will enjoy the parade with all the great costumes, plus Mexican, Filipino and Lebanese food, entertainment and more. The second Saturday of September at Daly Park, 107 Edmundo Nieto St. and Commerce St. DARK SKIES MUSIC SERIES Enjoy the summer with singer-songwriters performing on Friday evenings at 8 p.m. in August at the American Legion Post 176 at 905 O’Reilly St. Admission is free. PRESIDIO INTERNATIONAL DRAG STRIP FM 170 West A grassroots outdoor track built by community members, this is a 310-foot raceway where racers face off to test their cars’ mettle. Monthly Saturday night races. SANTA TERESA FIESTAS Santa Teresa de Jesus Church. Each year the church committee hosts a two-day celebration with traditional food, arts and crafts. There is a raffle with all proceeds going directly to the church’s insurance and needs. Call (432) 229-3235 for more information. FIRST CHRISTMAS IN TEXAS The first Christmas in Texas was held in 1683 by Father Nicholas Lopez of Juan Dominguez de Mendoza expedition. Santa Teresa Catholic Church conducts Christmas mass, and the public is invited.

PRESIDIO COMMUNITY FARMERS MARKET Every Saturday, 8 a.m.–1 p.m., rain or shine. Live music. Held between St. Francis Park and City Hall.

Lodging BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARKBUNKHOUSE (432) 358-4444 www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/bigbend-ranch CIBOLO CREEK RANCH (866) 496-9460, cibolocreekranch.com 30 miles north of Presidio on Hwy 67

Food and Drink THE BEAN CAFÉ (432) 229-3131 facebook.com/@The-BeanCafe-100063583270356 Coffee shop and restaurant located in downtown Presidio in front of City Hall. EJ’S DRIVE THRU 1004 Foothill Blvd., (432) 229-2976 facebook.com/p/EJs-Drive-Thru-burgerwings-100072462335519 Family fun. Fast food, burgers, hot dogs, wings and beer. Open daily 12 p.m.–2 a.m.

LOMA PALOMA RV PARK On FM 170, 4 miles east of downtown (432) 229-2992, lomapalomatx.com 84 wide, pull-thru sites. Showers.

EL CHANGARRITO (432) 229-2274 Next to the railroad tracks on East O’Reilly Street facebook.com/ElChangarrito79845 Mexican food, shaded outdoor dining.

PRESIDIO LODGE & DASP RV PARK 99140 Hwy 67 (as you come into town) (432) 209-9565 A hilltop campground with cabins and RV spaces with beautiful views in all directions.

EL PATIO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 118 O’Reilly St., (432) 229-4409 Authentic Mexican food. Dine-in, drivethru, no delivery. Popular restaurant located in front of the Santa Teresa de Jesus Catholic Church. Open 7 a.m.– 7 p.m.

LA CENTINELA (432) 229-3302, riobravoranchtx.com lacentinela@gmail.com Private 2/2 architecturally designed adobe house on FM 170, overlooking the Rio Grande with luxurious amenities. Home away from home for artists, birders and adventurers.

PRESIDIO POUR-OVER COFFEE 600 W. O’Reilly St. Coffee shop in downtown Presidio across from City Hall. Espressos, slowbrew coffee, brown sugar boba milk teas, macarons and other pastries. Open Mon.–Fri., 6 a.m.–2 p.m. & 5 p.m.–9 p.m.; Sat., 8 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sun. ,10 a.m.–3 p.m.

RIATA INN 99205 US 67 North, (432) 229-2528 riatainnpresidio.com Presidio’s motorcycle boutique hotel. Riders will find a home away from home and extras one not might expect traveling on a bike. Riata is certainly the motorcycle-friendly place for all travelers to stay in Presidio.

OASIS RESTAURANT Next to Three Palms Inn on Errma St. (432) 229-3998, threepalmsinn.com/ restaurant Open 7 a.m.–10 p.m. daily. Good food and desserts.

RIO BRAVO RANCH (432) 229-3302, riobravoranchtx.com riobravoranch1979@gmail.com Camping, large tent sites, shade structures, fire rings, grills, picnic tables, Chinati potty, BIG KAHUNA outdoor shower. THREE PALMS INN 1200 N. Erma Ave., (432) 229-3211 threepalmsinn.com A great place to stay in Presidio. Comfortable rooms, pool, internet, and offers the Oasis Restaurant open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

THE PINK FLAMINGO 902 O’Reilly Street, (432) 244-6362 facebook.comThePinkFlamingoPresidioTX thepinkflamingopresidiotx@gmail.com Colorful shaved ice shop serving snow cones, ice cream and delicious coffees. Open Mon.–Fri., 6:30 p.m.–9:30 p.m. PONCHO’S PIZZA, TAXI SERVICE 144A N. Puerto Rico St. and US 67 (432) 229-2663 (432) 295-0447 (taxi service) facebook.com/ponchospizzapresidio Next to the Presidio International Bridge.

PRESIDIO TRADING POST & CANTINA River Rd. at FM 170 E. at 1412 Park Valley Ave. (432) 229-3916, presidiotradingpost.com Open evenings. Variety of chicken wing flavors. Best in town.

BIG BEND JEEP RENTAL bigbendjeep.com Self-guided Big Bend Jeep tours in safety and style. Daily and weekly rentals. Travel the famous River Road, explore historic sites or experience a memorable 4x4 adventure.

PANADERIA DON JOSE 109 N. Erma on Business US 67 (432) 229-3424 facebook.com/people/Don-Jos%C3%A9Bakery/100054346428512 Family-run bakery known for its crescent rolls and for tamales and menudo on Sunday. Featuring a new and beautiful mural by local artist Ramon Deanda.

FAR WEST TEXAS OUTFITTERS (432) 229-2054 or (512) 632-4041 mike@farwesttexasoutfitters.com Seeking a week’s journey by canoe through some of North America’s most remote wild rivers canyons or a scenic day float, hike or drive. We tailor a custom experience for you.

SUBWAY SANDWICH SHOP 223 W. 1st St., (432) 229-2505 restaurants.subway.com/united-states/ tx/presidio/corner-first-st-and-second

Services

Outfitters and Tours

ALEX AUTOMOTIVE AUTO CARE CENTER Hwy 170 & E. O’Reilly St., (432) 229-4014

and hats, as well as a ladies section. Alse is a specialty store with a wide variety of personal products, from makeup to electronics.

MERAKI HAIR SALON 1402 O'Reilly St., (432) 386-2337 By appointment

UETA DUTY FREE STORE Large building near International Bridge (432) 229-3766 Some items may be bought on the spot, others like liquor and cigarettes (up to 40% off retail) can only be exported to Mexico at the international bridge. Limit for bringing back liquor. Tax per liter: $3.75–$4 with 4-liter limit per person.

OLIVAS AUTO PARTS 1818 Millington St., (432) 894-3249 ROHANA TIRE 907 E. O’Reilly St., (432) 229-2525 PRESIDIO 67 VALERO Hwy 67 , (432) 229-4949

20 VARAS BRAKE SERVICE O’Reilly St. and S. Bunton Ave. (432) 210-7344

ANGELL EXPEDITIONS (432) 384-2307 or (305) 336-2787 angellexpeditions.com Full-service outfitter serving the greater Big Bend area. River rafting, canoeing, kayaking, jeep tours, hiking, mountain biking and camping. Single and multi-day trips available, tailored to your interests and schedules. Rental cabins available. Highest ranking on TripAdvisor!

FRONTIER TRAVEL CENTER Hwy 67, next to Riata Inn, (432) 229-2777 Open Monday–Saturday 5 a.m.–11 p.m. and Sunday 6 a.m.–11 p.m.

DOLLAR TREE, FAMILY DOLLARS, DOLLAR GENERALS AND MELROSE All on Business 67/O'Reilly St. They may not have everything you want, but they have everything you need!

TOM’S SERVICE STATION 203 O’Reilly St., (432) 229-3259

Shopping NIETO’S 903 W. O’Reilly St., (432) 229-3220 Historic business in Presidio, dating back to the epoch of Pancho Villa. Western wear, footwear and veterinary supplies.

AUTO ZONE 101 E. O’Reilly St., (432) 229-3223 DY CONVENIENCE STORE (432) 229-4488, 104 W. O’Reilly

PORTERS THRIFTWAY (432) 229-3776, 1000 Hwy 67 portersgrocery.com Popular stop for travelers looking for beverages, groceries, ice, fuel and money orders. It is a full-service grocery store, deli and bakery.

MONTANA WESTERN WEAR & ALSE MISC. 1120 O’Reilly Street, (432) 229-3224 Full selection of cowboy jeans, belts

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PRESIDIO TOURIST INFO AVAILABLE AT CITY HALL (507 W. O’REILLY ST.). FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK, CITY OF PRESIDIO, TEXAS DISCOVERPRESIDIOTX.COM (432) 229-3517

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tures what’s left of miners’ homes, their church and Perry’s hilltop mansion, along with several capped and abandoned mines — most notably the California Hill, the Rainbow, the 248 and the Study Butte mines. No trip to the area is complete without a visit to the front porch of the Terlingua Trading Company — what was once the company store of the Chisos Mining Company. From this popular gathering place, onlookers can get to know the locals while taking in a sweeping view of Big Bend National Park and the Chisos Mountains, including the hard-to-miss formation known as “Mule Ears.” When the sun goes down, enjoy some of the best celestial viewing in the country. Each year on the first Saturday in November, more than 10,000 “chiliheads” convene in Terlingua for two annual chili cook-offs: the Chili Appreciation Society’s International Chili Championship and the Frank X. Tolbert/Wick Fowler Memorial World Championship Chili Cookoff. These annual events feature costumes, live music and serious competition. They have come to personify Terlingua and spread the reputation of this unique Texas village worldwide. The neighboring community of Study Butte (pronounced “stoody byoot”) may be lesser known, but it is the economic hub of the area and has a similar history steeped in mining. Today, stores, lodging and other amenities cater to tourists enjoying all that the Big Bend region has to offer.

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o the east of Big Bend State Park and to the west of Big Bend National Park sits the Terlingua/ Study Butte area, which attracts visitors looking for West Texas adventure. Rafting on the Rio Grande, mountain biking, camping, hiking and motorcycling are popular outdoor activities throughout the region, and many such trips begin in this tiny community. But the adrenaline-rushing tourist activities aren’t what originally put Terlingua on the map. That honor goes to cinnabar, a bright mineral consisting of mercury sulfide — an important ore of mercury and used by Native Americans as body pigment. Its discovery in the 1880s brought miners to the desolate Chihuahuan Desert and spawned the Chisos Mining Company, founded by Howard Perry in 1903. For more than two decades, the operation extracted quicksilver, which was used in the manufacture of gunpowder cartridges and shells. Business boomed, particularly during World War I, and the small town of Terlingua blossomed around the mines. But once the Great Depression hit, the quicksilver industry suffered, leading to a reduced need for mine labor and, ultimately, the closure of the Chisos Mining Company in 1942. Though many miners moved on, remnants of their time in the far West Texas community remain. The Terlingua Ghost Town, which is on the National Register of Historic Places, fea-

Attractions TERLINGUA TRADING COMPANY Housed in the former company store of the Chisos Mining Company (100 Ivey Rd.), this is a modern-day version of the trading post that served trappers, settlers and cowboys along the Rio Grande. Today, the gift shop and community gathering place sells gifts influenced by Mexico and the southwestern U.S., including books, maps and art. (432) 371-2234, www.ghosttowntexas.com/ terlinguatradingcompany.html HISTORIC TERLINGUA AND TERLINGUA GHOST TOWN On Highway 170, five miles west of 118 Added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1996, the Terlingua Historic District holds the largest concentration of mining architecture in the area. Some buildings have been restored as shops, restaurants and homes, including the Starlight Theatre and the Terlingua Trading Company. Other remnants, such as miners’ homes, an area church and the Perry Mansion, are weathered ruins. The Terlingua Ghost Town also includes capped and abandoned mines left over from the early-1900s mining boom and a boot hill cemetery. www.ghosttowntexas.com

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BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK If you’ve made it to far West Texas, Big Bend National Park is probably on your itinerary. The Terlingua and Study Butte area is a great starting point from which to base your national park adventure. Once inside the park, consider the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. This stunning loop on the western side of Big Bend passes many favorite trailheads and ends at the majestic Santa Elena Canyon. The improved dirt Maverick Road leads back to the park entrance at Maverick Junction. www.visitbigbend.com BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK The largest state park in Texas, with over 300,000 acres of Chihuahuan Desert wilderness, the park embraces some of the most remote and rugged terrain in the Southwest. Mountain bikers, hikers and equestrians enjoy miles of trails that traverse “the other side of nowhere.” www.tpwd.texas. gov/state-parks/big-bend-ranch

BARTON WARNOCK VISITOR CENTER The Center serves as the eastern entrance to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Exhibits interpret 570 million years of geologic history and the five biological landscapes of the Chihuahuan Desert. It was named for famed botanist and 33-year Sul Ross State University professor Dr. Barton Warnock (1911–1998). www.tpwd.texas. gov/state-parks/barton-warnock WALKING TOUR OF TERLINGUA GHOSTTOWN This self-guided tour starts at the flag pole in front of the Terlingua Trading Company. Go to the website for more details. terlinguatexas.com/moreexcursions CAMINO DEL RIO — THE RIVER ROAD Highway 170 along the Rio Grande is a favorite among travelers. You’ll find several camping areas, river access points and trailheads along the way. At places, the road becomes narrow, winding and very steep, making it difficult for some RVs, buses and trailer rigs. Open grazing is also allowed along this stretch of road, so keep your eyes peeled for cows, horses, mules or burros. RIDE THE RIO GRANDE The Terlingua and Study Butte area is the jumping off point for your river adventure. There are a number of experienced outfitters that will make your trip fun and safe, whether it be by raft, canoe or kayak.

Outfitters and Activities BIG BEND RIVER TOURS 23331 FM 170 (800) 545-4240 bigbendrivertours.com The oldest full-service outfitter in the area, Big Bend River Tours offers guided rafting trips, canoe trips, guided hikes, backroad tours and combination trips. DESERT SPORTS 22937 FM 170 (432) 371-2727 desertsportstx.com Looking to mountain bike or run in Big Bend National Park or Big Bend State Park? Desert Sports specializes in helping visitors explore the Chihua-

huan Desert. Guided tours, overnight river trips and boat and bike rentals are also available. LAJITAS ZIP LINE lajitasgolfresort.com, (432) 424-5000 A world-class zip-line tour of Quiet Canyon is a perfect way for adrenaline junkies to enjoy the breathtaking surroundings of the Big Bend area. Nine zip lines take riders from the upper canyon to the canyon floor. Three tour options available. BLACK JACK’S CROSSING GOLF COURSE lajitasgolfresort; (432) 424-5080 For multiple years, the Dallas Morning News has voted this 18-hole championship golf course designed by Ryder Cup Captain Lanny Wadkins the top course you can play in Texas. The course winds through the mountains, canyon and desert, capturing the beauty and drama of the Big Bend region while offering challenging golf for all skill levels. FAR FLUNG OUTDOOR CENTER 23310 FM 170; (432) 371-2633 bigbendfarflung.com Far Flung Outdoor Center helps visitors experience the Big Bend area up close and personal with river trips, walks and hikes, and Jeep and ATV tours. They also offer courses in wilderness first aid and canoe rentals.

BIG BEND & LAJITAS STABLES (800) 887-4331, (432) 371-3064 www.lajitasstables.com/index.html lajitasstables@bigbend.net Offering guided horseback rides for almost 30 years! Riders can enjoy the frontier lands of the Chihuahuan Desert next to Big Bend National Park, along Scenic Rio Grande and atop the mesas of the Bofecillos Mountains in Big Bend Ranch State Park. Hourly, half- or all- day and multiple days available. BIG BEND STATION (432) 371-3382 , (877) 386-4383 bigbendresort.com Big Bend Station offers experienced guides to take you to all areas of the Big Bend. The tours are conducted in a Ford Excursion 4-wheel drive vehicle with air conditioning for your comfort.

Transportation TRANS-PECOS JEEPS (432) 294-6043 Trans-PecosJeeps.com Trans-Pecos Jeeps is a car rental company based in Alpine and offers a fleet of late model ’21–’22 Jeep Gladiators in Mojave and Rubicon trims. All car rentals include 250 miles per day and they can deliver Jeeps to the Alpine Amtrak Station, Alpine Airport, Fort Davis, Marfa (including the Marfa Airport), Marathon, Study Butte and Terlingua.

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CHISOS MINING CO. MOTEL 23280 FM 170 (432) 371-2254 motelsbigbend.com For more than 40 years, this locally owned and operated motel just minutes from both Big Bend National Park and Big Bend State Park has served West Texas visitors.

Call or check websites for more details. VOICES FROM BOTH SIDES Every year in May, people from both sides of the border come together for a day of music and fun next to (and in) the Rio Grande. Musicians grab their instruments and set up on the bandstand at the edge of the river near the border community of Lajitas. They take turns playing songs with bands just across the border, on the Mexican side of the river, at Paso Lajitas, an even tinier village. DAY OF THE DEAD/ DIA DE LOS MUERTOS It’s a Terlingua tradition to meet at sunset on Nov. 2 at the historic cemetery in the Terlingua Ghost Town to light candles and make offerings to loved ones long past, remember old friends and make new ones as everyone visits and honors those who’ve gone before them. www.visitbigbend.com FRANK X. TOLBERT-WICK FOWLER ORIGINAL TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP COOK-OFF First held in 1967, this annual celebration features some of the best chili this side of the Pecos, plus big name musical talent. It's held the first weekend of November. More details at www.abowlofred.com TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP The Chili Appreciation Society International’s annual event is held at Rancho CASI de los Chisos on the north side

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of Highway 170, 11 miles west of Study Butte. CASI hosts the annual championship on the first weekend of November. The festivities include BBQ, salsa, beans and wings contests. There is live music entertainment on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. www.casichili.net BLACK-EYED PEA OFF Since 1990, Terlingua residents and visitors have celebrated the start of a new year with a black-eyed pea cooking competition. The annual Jan. 1 event occurs on the porch of the Terlingua Trading Company and has two rules: have fun and no beans! A first place trophy is awarded and proceeds benefit local causes. BIG BEND ULTRA RUN This racing event takes place every January in Big Bend Ranch State Park. Participants can choose from a 50K, 30K, 20K and 10K trail run over desert terrain. The premium, ultra and distance trail races in the Chihuahuan Desert of South Brewster County benefit Big Bend Ranch State Park and Friends of Big Bend Ranch State Park. www.bigbend50.com VIVA BIG BEND The annual music festival, which celebrates its 13th anniversary in 2024, has expanded in recent years to include South Brewster County and specifically Terlingua. The final weekend of July is the time to catch the music. TERLINGUA CHIHUAHUA RACES The Chihuahua races take place each March and benefit the Family Crisis

Center of the Big Bend. Enjoy the race, games, a dog costume contest and food and music.

Lodging For a complete listing of area lodging options, go to www.VisitBigBend.com. TERLINGUA ESCONDIDO (432) 371-2173 terlinguaescondido.com Luxury yurts and loft, walking distance to Terlingua Ghost Town yet hidden from view. Gaze at stars, moon and clouds through the dome skylight of a yurt, or take in spectacular views of the Chisos Mountains and dark night skies. Located between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park, Terlingua Escondido is your ideal spot for relaxing and adventuring! EL DORADO HOTEL 100 Terlingua Ghost Town (432) 371-2111 eldoradohotelterlingua.com Located behind the High Sierra Bar & Grill, the El Dorado Hotel offers traditional single, double and king rooms, as well as a one-bedroom villa and a fully remodeled tour bus that sleeps four. LA POSADA MILAGRO laposadamilagro.com Built atop ruins in the Terlingua Ghost Town, the pet-friendly La Posada Milagro provides rustic luxury accommodations. Each room is unique, and visitors can enjoy views of Big Bend National Park from sun decks and courtyards. Also featured is an on-site coffee shop and taqueria.

HOLIDAY HOTEL 100 Ivey Rd. (432) 203-6929 bigbendholidayhotel.com Located between Study Butte and Lajitas on Highway 170, in the heart of the Historic Terlingua Ghost Town, Holiday Hotel offers sophisticated accommodations in a primitive setting. Guests can choose between the lovingly restored suites, casitas and family suites. LAJITAS GOLF RESORT/ MAVERICK RANCH RV PARK On Hwy 170 (432) 424-5000, (877) LAJITAS lajitasgolfresort.com A full-service resort which is also home to a beautiful 18-hole golf course and an outfitter service. Maverick Ranch RV Park offers 101 sites, including 60 full-service pull-throughs and 18 primitive wilderness campsites for those interested in having a true, rustic tent camping experience. BIG BEND CASITAS (432) 371-2633 bigbendfarflung.com/lodging LONGHORN RANCH MOTEL 52370 TX-118, Terlingua (432) 371-2541 TERLINGUA RANCH LODGE 16000 Terlingua Ranch Rd., Terlingua (432) 371-3146

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Events

BIG BEND STATION – INN & RV RANCH BIG BEND STATION – MISSION HOTEL Three miles from the western entrance to Big Bend National Park (432) 371-3382 bigbendresort.com Big Bend Station features lodging, gift shop, food, a convenience store and guided back country tours. A campground and RV park with full hookups is also onsite.

Van Horn

VAN HORN IS THE CROSSROADS OF THE TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL

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an Horn was established in 1881, when the Texas and Pacific Railway came through. Before that, it was a stopping point for travelers on the Old Spanish Trail and the San Antonio-El Paso Overland Mail route. Today, Van Horn is the county seat of Culberson County, sitting at the helm of the western portion of the region, almost exactly halfway between Fort Stockton and El Paso. Of the many area attractions, a large number of visitors to Van Horn are those heading up to Guadalupe Mountains National Park and on to Carlsbad Caverns just across the Texas/New Mexico border. Many choose to stay in the newly remodeled historic Hotel El Capitan, one of the Trost & Trost hotels that dot this part of the country. The El Capitan is a newly remodeled gem of historic architecture.

GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK Enjoy one of the most beautiful drives in Texas en route to the stunning and varied landscapes of the Guadalupe Mountains. Just one hour north of Van Horn, this national park is home to the highest peak in the state — Guadalupe Peak at 8,750 feet. Enjoy a variety of hiking trails accessible year-round, historic sites and interpretive displays. See page 19 for much more information on Guadalupe Mountains National Park. www.nps.gov/gumo THE EL CAPITAN TO EL CAPITAN HERITAGE BIKE ROUTE A 55-mile ride along a scenic and historic route! Cyclists from all over are coming to ride Highway 54 between the Historic Hotel El Capitan and El Capitan Mountain in Guadalupe Mountains National Park. CLARK HOTEL MUSEUM Anyone interested in the historical aspects of West Texas will want to stop at the Clark Hotel Museum. Located in the historic

hotel that once served railroad travelers, this museum features pioneer, Native American and railroad memorabilia. The museum contains a stunning collection of artifacts reflecting the history of Van Horn and the surrounding area. There are displays showing the history of mining, ranching, the railroad and other early activities, as well as personal items which belonged to members of early pioneer families who first settled here. It features an old western-style saloon with a mirrored back bar, which have been in the same room since the early 1900s. (432) 283-8028

Lodging HOTEL EL CAPITAN 100 E. Broadway St. (877) 283-1220 thehotelelcapitan.com The Hotel El Capitan was built in 1930 based on designs by notable architect Henry Trost, of Trost & Trost of El Paso. After a $2.5 million renovation, the El Capitan is even more superb than in 1930. There are now 38 rooms and suites, a fine dining room and the Gopher Hole Bar. BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 59

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Del Rio

VAL VERDE WINERY The Val Verde Winery is a must stop for visitors. Established in 1883, it produces an array of wines from white Viognier to the red Sangiovese. The winery provides inviting grounds to relax and sip on your choice of wine with a beautiful view of the vineyard at sunset. WHITEHEAD MEMORIAL MUSEUM The Whitehead Museum provides a look back at the history of the region with over 30 exhibits. See the resting place of Judge Roy Bean or learn about the days of Wolfman Jack broadcasting on the most potent radio waves in the United States. The museum preserves historical and tangible artifacts that reflect the early history, cultures and economies of Del Rio and Val Verde County. HISTORIC DOWNTOWN DEL RIO Discover historic downtown Del Río: the art galleries displaying popular pieces from around the world, our monthly Art Walks, the summer concert series Noches Musicales hosted by Casa de La Cultura, the Fiesta De Amistad celebrations in October and much more. For a listing of all Del Río has to offer, please visit drchamber.com. JUDGE ROY BEAN VISITOR CENTER Judge Roy Bean established his Jersey Lilly saloon, helping to stir an already roiling pot of lawlessness, before capturing the position of justice of the peace. Today, the Jersey Lilly and the opera house Bean built combine to create the Judge Roy Bean Visitors Center.

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THERE'S A REASON WHY DEL RIO IS KNOWN AS THE OASIS ON THE BORDER − LOCATED 2 ½ HOURS WEST OF SAN ANTONIO, YOU’LL FIND SOME OF THE BEST NATURAL AMENITIES KNOWN IN TEXAS

rom the ever-popular Amistad National Recreation Area to the peaceful cooling waters of the San Felipe creek, leisure and relaxation is at your reach. Fed by the Rio Grande, Pecos, and Devils rivers, Lake Amistad serves as the host to year-round water

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sports and activities. The unique rivers wind through over 100-foot canyons and converge into an expanse of clear fresh water. Whether on a fishing outing or a kayaking expedition, these waters offer a treat you’ll never forget.

SEMINOLE CANYON STATE PARK & HISTORIC SITE Ancient rock art will draw you here. But you’ll find other things to do as well: camp, hike, mountain bike, geocache and study history and nature. Early canyon dwellers left clues to their lives on the stone walls and their pictographs tell stories that we try to understand today. Come see it for yourself; we’re along the Rio Grande near Del Rio. CIUDAD ACUÑA Ciudad Acuña is an epicenter for Mexico’s most cherished traditions, where visitors, families and friends meet to rejoice in good times. Cd. Acuña offers excellent recreation, concerts, discotheques, hotels, novelties and festivals celebrating traditional Mexican holidays, like 16 de Septiembre, Día de Muertos, and Cinco de Mayo. Cd. Acuña is also a hub for affordable, quality healthcare.

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Fort Stockton

Attractions 🅐 FORT STOCKTON VISITOR CENTER Located in the renovated Kansas City, Mexico and Orient Railroad Depot, the Visitor Center provides information on local and regional attractions. The surrounding grounds house interpretive displays on Comanche Springs, Buffalo Soldiers, early pioneers, vaqueros and Comanche Indians. Also located at the Center is the operational Pecos County/Fort Stockton Renewable Energy Park, featuring wind and solar power generation that supplies energy for operations at the Visitor Center. 1000 Railroad Avenue (432) 336-2264 www.historicfortstocktontx.com

🅑 THE GREY MULE SALOON The historic saloon offers visitors a unique experience of enjoying an evening in an adobe structure where cowboys, pioneers and outlaws once drank and watched the construction of what is now the Annie Riggs Memorial Museum. Open Wednesday through Sunday (2:30 p.m.–8 p.m.). (432) 336-WINE. Available for special events and group appointments. HISTORIC FORT STOCKTON DRIVING TOUR Beginning at the Visitor Center, the self-guided driving tour of the Historic District features 17 locations with descriptive signage and period photographs. (432) 336-2264

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Paisano Pete, located in the center of town on the corner of Main and Dickinson, is inarguably one of the most recognizable roadside attractions in the Southwest. Fort Stockton’s unofficial mascot was erected in 1980 and declared the largest roadrunner in the world, at 11 feet tall and 22 feet long. “Pete” was the idea of Mayor Gene Cummings and has been an enduring symbol of the community since his arrival. He is one of the most photographed ”birds” in the world.

🅓 OLD FORT CEMETERY In use from 1859 to 1912, grave markers are a testament to the hard and often violent life on the early frontier.

COURTESY FORT STOCKTON CVB

ort Stockton was established in March 1859 as Camp Stockton. The army withdrew from Texas during the Civil War and abandoned Fort Stockton in 1861. Confederate troops briefly occupied the site until they, too, withdrew in 1862. In July 1867, Fort Stockton was reestablished by four companies of the 9th U.S. Cavalry Regiment. The 9th was one of the new regiments, organized after the Civil War, staffed with African-American enlisted men known as Buffalo Soldiers. The community was originally known as Saint Gall, but the locals changed the name to Fort Stockton in 1881. Fort Stockton was incorporated as a city in December of 1910 and elected its first mayor in 1911. Fort Stockton is the county seat of Pecos County, the second-largest county in the state. Covering nearly 5,000 square miles, Pecos County is one of Texas’ largest energy producers, combining renewable energy with fossil fuels. Tourism, agriculture, retail sales and the service industry are also important contributors to the local economy.

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BIG BEND OPEN ROAD RACE Fort Stockton is the starting point for this “most challenging open road race in the world,” held the last Saturday in April along Highway 285 to Sanderson. This event draws hundreds to the area and offers excitement for all ages. Contact: (432) 336-2264 www.bborr.com FORT STOCKTON WATER CARNIVAL The Fort Stockton Water Carnival tradition began back in 1936, when Comanche Springs flowed freely and Texas was celebrating its Centennial. The annual event occurs the third weekend in July and includes singing, dancing, water ballet performances and the crowning of Miss Fort Stockton. Held at Comanche Springs Pool and Pavilion, the three-day event continues to be run by local volunteers. (432) 336-2264

Call or check websites for more information.

Events

🅗 JAMES ROONEY MEMORIAL PARK Home to the historic Comanche Springs Pavilion and Swimming Pool, built in 1938 over the Big Chief Spring, the pool is the site of Fort Stockton’s annual Water Carnival. 208 S. Hwy 285, Pool – 200 Spring Dr. (432) 336-2751

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GOLF COURSE This 18-hole course is home to Blaine McCallister, a leading PGA touring professional. Open Tuesday– Sunday. (432) 336-2050

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MUSEUM  Built in 1899, the museum is an excellent example of Territorial architecture. The Riggs family donated the building to the Fort Stockton Historical Society in 1956 for use as a museum of the town’s wild and colorful history with displays featuring area geology, archeology and pioneer life. 301 S. Main. (432) 336-2167

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This important Indian Wars fort was active from 1867 to 1886. It was strategically placed at Comanche Springs to protect the San Antonio-to-El Paso 1 mile mail, freight wagons, cattle drives and immigrants. Today Historic Fort Stockton consists of four of the original buildings and reconstructed barracks housing the museum and period displays. 301 East Third Street (432) 336-2400

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Sponsored by the Fort Stockton Historical Society, this free, six-session summer concert series is held off the back porch at the Annie Riggs Memorial Museum, featuring historic period- and westernthemed music. The concerts are held on Thursdays during the summer. (432) 336-2167 LIVE AT ZERO STONE CONCERT SERIES Sponsored by the Fort Stockton Chamber of Commerce, this free, six-session summer concert series is held at Zero Stone Park in downtown Fort Stockton. Many types of music are celebrated, including jazz, swing and hard rock. The concerts are held every other Friday. (432) 336-2264 FALL FESTIVAL Held the first weekend of October, the Fall Festival is a weekend of fun-filled events including arts & crafts booths, food booths, kids activities, a wine emporium, goat roping and team roping. (432) 336-2264 OLD FORT DAYS Held annually on the historic fort grounds the third weekend in October, Old Fort Days brings history to life with period reenactors and demonstrations. Military units representing the periods of occupation of Fort Stockton are represented, as are the civilian populations that lived near the historic fort. Demonstrations of skills needed to survive during the early settlement of the Southwest are presented, as well as military demonstrations of infantry, cavalry and artillery skills. (432) 336-2400

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Attractions  SANDHILLS STATE PARK Five miles northeast of Monahans off I20. (432) 943-2092

Monahans •

PHOTOS THIS PAGE COURTESY MONAHANS CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

Come play in our sandbox and experience some of the most beautiful sunrises and sunsets

ohn Thomas Monahan is the name of the man who dug the well and for whom the community of Monahans is named. The discovery of water at the site of present-day Monahans was a breakthrough, according to the Encyclopedia of the New West, written in 1881, which notes, “The Texas and Pacific Railroad found here its first inexhaustible supply of pure water.” For the first time, it became apparent that the “Monahans Well” may have had a very significant impact. Monahans Sandhills State Park is noted for the presence of sand dunes up to 70 feet high. Although desert-like, the Monahans Sandhills are not a desert; they are a part of a semi-arid ecosystem (average annual rainfall: 12.3 inches) characterized by the presence of both groundwater and relatively nutrient-poor windblown sand. The shinoak (Quercus havardii) is a local climax shrub, an unusual type of oak tree that, because of local conditions, often achieves full growth of only four feet in height. Most of a shinoak’s biomass exists in

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the form of a lengthy root system reaching down to groundwater. If a Monahans sand dune has become stabilized and stopped blowing about in the wind, it is often because a small grove of shinoaks have stabilized the dune with their extensive root systems. Despite the sterility of the landscape, various rodents are relatively common, and several packs of Sandhills coyotes feed upon them. Much of the Monahans Sandhills are privately owned property. The state of Texas is operating a 99year lease with the Sealy-Smith Foundation for the ranch on which most of the land of the state park is located; the park opened to the public in 1957, and the state park has leasehold rights to this parcel of the sand hills until 2056. The Monahans Sandhills are part of the Permian Basin of hydrocarbon formations, and some oil production continues in and around the state park. Visitors practice several local forms of recreation at the Monahans Sandhills, such as sandboarding, sand volleyball, sand surfing and sand tobogganing.

WARD COUNTY MUSEUM AT THE MILLION BARREL Open Tuesday–Sunday, 10 am–6 pm (432) 943-8401 Located at the Million Barrel, this 14.5acre site is a historical potpourri. Built in 1928, the tank was designed to hold over a million barrels of crude oil and today provides a perfect performance venue for the 400-seat Meadows Amphitheater. Boasting a wide variety of historical artifacts, the Ward County Museum complex is a must-do for any history buff. Coca-Cola Museum: Commemorates the Coca-Cola bottling plant and the Big Burger Restaurant. It is a private collection donated to the museum by Dan and Elaine Wetzig and the Conrad Dunagan family. The collection contains all kinds of Coca-Cola memorabilia and collectibles. Heritage Museum: Contains numerous antique collections of cameras, medical instruments, rifles and shotguns dated back to the early ’20s, surveying equipment, oilfield equipment and a pennyfarthing bicycle. Railroad Museum: See antiques from the Pyote Train Depot, the rail car and caboose, and the SWBT last “step” office in Texas. The Pyote Bomber Base Museum: This important collection is a wonderful venue for WWII enthusiasts. Visit their newest exhibit and learn about the Pyote Army Airfield, which trained B-17 and B-29 crews. WARD COUNTY GOLF COURSE  An 18-hole course that features 6,669 yards of golf from the longest tees for a par of 72. The course rating is 69.9 and has a slope rating of 115 on Bermuda grass. The golf course opened in 1934.

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OZONA

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER Open Monday through Friday, 9 a.m.–5 p.m., and Saturdays from 10 a.m.–3 p.m. 24-hour restrooms. Find local and regional details as well as tourist information for a 300-mile radius of Ozona. Located at the intersection of I-10 and Hwy 163 South. Exit 365. www.ozona.com Facebook page: OzonaChamber FORT LANCASTER HISTORIC SITE  One of four posts established in 1855 to protect the military route between San Antonio and El Paso. Visitors may wander through the ruins of the fort still standing guard over the Pecos River Valley. Located 33 miles west of Ozona off U.S. 290, in Crockett County, travelers can also stop at an observation point for a spectacular view of a valley once roamed by pioneers. www.visitfortlancaster.com

EDRA-Escondido Draw Recreational Area EscondidoDraw.org

PHOTOS COURTESY OZONA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

CROCKETT COUNTY MUSEUM Three-story period museum featuring an award-winning Indian exhibit, general store, bank room, saddle room and many other exhibits. Experience a way of life lived by so many before us. www.ozonamuseum.com CROCKETT COUNTY INTERPRETIVE TRAIL & RAINWATER HARVEST EXHIBIT  Open to the public seven days a week and located just across the parking lot of the visitor center at the intersection of I-10 and Hwy 163 South. A great collection of native plants from within a 100-mile radius of Ozona, along with an exhibit on how to collect rain water. www.ozona.com

LOCATED IN THE TEXAS PECOS TRAIL, OZONA IS THE PERFECT I-10 STOP BETWEEN SAN ANTONIO AND EL PASO Ozona, the only town in over 2,800 square miles of Crockett County, was organized in 1891 and bears the name of Alamo hero David Crockett. Ozona is not only rich in history but offers an array of activities. Visit a three-story period museum or a nearby fort to understand life out west. From historical walking and nature tours to off-roading and scenic drives, there truly is something for the whole family. Discover local and area attractions at www.ozona.com.

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BALMORHEA STATE PARK In addition to the spring-fed pool, the State Park features the Cienega Wetlands Restoration, a refuge for indigenous aquatic and amphibian life. Visitors can stay in San Solomon Springs Courts or at the campground. TOYAHVALE DESERT OASIS The only outfitter by the park! Visit this fullservice dive shop for swim gear and to schedule scuba diving lessons in the crystal-clear waters of San Solomon Springs. Scuba and snorkeling gear rentals. Plus, all the supplies you’ll need for your visit to Balmorhea State Park.

he pool maintains a constant temperature of 72-76 degrees Fahrenheit, making it an ideal spot for swimming or scuba diving excursions year-round. Canals channel the water along Highway 17 into Balmorhea (pronounced BAL-moray), where a charming city park flanks the watercourse. Once a stagecoach stop between Fort Stockton and Fort Davis, the Toyahvale Post Office was established in 1891. The drive from Fort Davis on Highway 17 through the scenic Davis Mountains and Wild Rose Pass is one of the prettiest in the region. 72 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

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THUNDERING HOOVES MEMORIAL FENCE Just south of the pool, on Highway 17 to Fort Davis, is the memorial fence. The associated Thundering Hooves nonprofit seeks to bring attention to hardships faced by wild and domestic horses. www.thunderinghooves.com CALERA CHAPEL Mission Mary at Calera is located west of Toyahvale on Highway 290. The church, which served the area from around 1902 into the 1940s, was restored in 2002.

PHOTOS BY NETA RHYNE

THE WATERS OF SAN SOLOMON SPRINGS SURFACE AT TOYAHVALE, WHERE THE 1.75ACRE SPRING-FED SWIMMING POOL AT BALMORHEA STATE PARK PROVIDES VISITORS WITH A WELCOME OPPORTUNITY FOR REFRESHING RECREATION IN THE DESERT

TEXAS

Mountain Trail R e gi o n

DISCOVER THE ADVENTURE OF THE TRUE FRONTIER ... IT AWAITS YOU IN FAR WEST TEXAS

MUMUAYM/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

reathtaking mountains and high-country hikes. Sheer river canyons and winding back roads. Exotic panoramas and star-studded nights. Adventure in the unspoiled West awaits you in the Texas Mountain Trail Region of far West Texas. See land as early man saw it, as the Apache and Comanche saw it, as ranching pioneers saw it. Visit Big Bend National Park, hike the spectacular South Rim Trail. Follow the Butterfield Overland Stagecoach route through Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Visit our charming mountain communities, where cowboys may still go to lunch in town on horseback. Catch a performance at El Paso’s 1930 Plaza Theatre, in the heart of the museum district. Visit adobe missions, still used as churches

for local congregations. We invite you to plan your own adventure! Travel by car, horse, motorcycle, bicycle, RV or by foot — the scenery and the history is unparalleled. Let the Texas Mountain Trail be your guide to discovery and adventure. Follow the historic 1960s driving route, the original “Texas Mountain Trail” to state and national parks, to the Big Bend of Texas, where the real West is still alive and ready for you to discover. Look no further than the rugged land of the Texas Mountain Trail Region, and you’ll see our history. Our state and national parks — “bucket list” destinations for most geologists — reveal a past of more than 600 million years of Paleozoic deep marine sediments, volcanic remnants and the bending, folding and uplifting of land. Dinosaurs roamed our land some 248 million years ago, and Big Bend National Park is one of the world’s paleontological jewels. In our Chihuahuan Desert climate, where there is water, there is the history of man. The Rio Grande gradually carved a deep notch in the mountains, creating a natural river crossing that the Spanish explorers named El Paso del Norte. The river also created glorious canyons

in Big Bend National Park. Throughout the centuries, the climate grew hotter and the land drier. To survive, wildlife and prehistoric hunter-gatherers adapted to desert conditions. Later, diverse groups — Native Americans and Spanish missionaries, soldiers and miners, ranchers and railroaders — passed this way in search of wealth, glory and new beginnings. The Texas Heritage Trails Program (THTP) is the Texas Historical Commission’s (THC) award-winning heritage tourism initiative. This economic development initiative encourages communities, heritage regions and the state to partner and promote Texas’ historic and cultural resources. These successful local preservation efforts, combined with statewide marketing of heritage regions as tourism destinations, increase visitation to cultural and historic sites and bring more dollars to Texas communities. This in turn supports the THC’s mission to protect and preserve the state’s historic and prehistoric resources for the use, education, economic benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations.

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COURTESY 12 GAGE RESTAURANT

12 GAGE RESTAURANT

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Our guide to navigating the eateries and watering holes of the Big Bend Region by Tom Buckley TEXANS KNOW there’s West Texas and then there’s far West Texas, miles and miles of rugged terrain dotted with culinary, geographical and cultural attractions well worth the hours of driving. From the Chisos Mountains of Big Bend to the allure of Marfa — and every sleepy stop in between — far West Texas can be nothing short of magical, a move into another world. To explore all of the region's many gems at a suitable far west pace (i.e. laid-back) would take weeks. So if your visit doesn’t allow you the luxury of a lengthy stay, you need to be selective. That’s what the late Anthony Bourdain found when he traveled to the Big Bend region in 2018. In the final season of his Parts Unknown series on CNN, the celebrity chef and author spent time at the Means Ranch Company near Van Horn, dining on fresh braised goat with jalapeños, before heading to Marfa, a fascinating, enigmatic city

he found difficult to comprehend, then on to the sister towns of Presidio and Ojinaga, Chihuahua, Mexico — split by the border but inextricably tied. The show aired Oct. 21, 2018. While in Marfa, Bourdain befriended Ty Mitchell, a quintessential cowboy who at that time owned the Lost Horse Saloon, where an eclectic collection of local personalities — cowboys, hipsters, blue collar workers, artists — gather. It’s an untamed land out in those parts — an area that pits man against nature (with the land usually victorious). “It’s one of the most rugged and remote destinations in the United States,” Mitchell tells Bourdain. “Everything out here will bite, poke or prick you — everything.” Bourdain, meanwhile, shares with viewers his memorable arrival in Marfa. “I drove three hours through ghost towns and dead gas stations and nothing but nothing,” he explains. “Suddenly I arrived in Marfa. It’s like, ‘Would you like some

bruschetta, some salumi, some $900 ponchos?’ What’s going on?” But it’s here that Bourdain also discovers gas station tacos — at Stripes, the holy grail of gas station food, at least to South Texans. What Bourdain discovers, of course, is that far West Texas embodies a diverse and flavorful culinary tradition that reflects the region’s rich cultural history and vast geography. The area is known for its hearty and bold flavors, influenced by a mix of Mexican, Native American, Tex-Mex, Southern and cowboy culinary traditions. So when you’re heading this way, open your hearts, minds and taste buds to what awaits you. We’ve curated a selection of eateries — from high-end restaurants to humble food trucks — and drinking establishments sure to satisfy you on many levels. But hidden gems await adventurous travelers as well, so keep your eyes and ears open. And enjoy the experience! BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 75

Fine Dining 12 GAGE RESTAURANT, GAGE HOTEL, MARATHON, 102 NW 1ST ST., HWY 90W

The Gage Hotel’s award-winning restaurant offers a refined menu that changes seasonally and features high-quality ingredients, including locally sourced wild game, beef, fowl and fresh seafood served with vegetables and herbs grown in the Gage’s own garden. The upscale dining room provides comfortable leather chairs, a fireplace, cowboy chic décor and unique art, while the outdoor patio includes fireplaces and fountains that provide an intimate and romantic al fresco setting. An extensive wine list, including the hotel’s private label wine selection, signature cocktails and a variety of housemade desserts round out a culinary experience that showcases far West Texas dining at its very best. — gagehotel. com/dining/12-gage-restaurant TAFT DIAZ, STANTON HOUSE, EL PASO, 209 N. STANTON ST.

COCHINEAL, MARFA, 107 W. SAN ANTONIO ST.

Think of the dining experience here as akin to a party in a private home with 30 of your closest friends. This restaurant is proud of its perfectly cooked schnitzels, filet Américain (a ground up version of the steak tartare) and gazpacho. You can also enjoy pudding, fruitcake, biscuits and good bread. The chef-owners will welcome you to their open kitchen, where ingredients from their garden and a network of suppliers determine what might appear on several weeklychanging prix-fixe menus. Expect simple ingredients, clean flavors and creative presentation. The wine list is extensive, Cochineal also offers delicious coffee or great lemonade. Food allergies and dietary preferences are willingly accommodated with prior notice. — cochinealmarfa.com REATA, ALPINE, 203 N. 5TH ST.

Located in a house built in 1890, the exterior of this historic venue looks inviting. However, when you step inside, the structure’s beautiful rich wood and thick adobe walls, decorated with western art and artifacts, shine. 76 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

REATA

A favorite of many West Texans spending the day in Alpine, Reata feels both welcoming and upscale, with big, wooden tables and a pleasant rancher/cowboy vibe. It's a “howdy”-type place with prompt, down-home service and a menu that emphasizes creative Southwestern and Tex-Mex fare such as tortilla soup, calf fries with cream gravy, and beef tamales with pecan mash, plus generously portioned steaks from a legendary ranch in the nearby Davis Mountains. There's a long, fabulous dessert list as well. — reata.net/alpine

Local Favorites CHUY’S RESTAURANT, VAN HORN, 1200 W. BROADWAY ST.

Since 1959, Chuy’s has prided itself on providing guests with an amiable dining experience combined with exceptional Mexican, Southwestern and vegetarian-friendly cuisine. With fewer than 2,000 Texans living in Van Horn, Chuy’s is a popular stop not just for locals but also legends. You may be surprised to learn that Chuy’s is the old stomping grounds of Johnny Cash, Selena, Ray Price, Conway Twitty, Harrison Ford and more. Celebrity visits began back in 1987 when football legend and announcer John Madden happened to be passing through on a Monday night and gave the eatery his ringing endorsement. The restaurant is located in one of the area's most pleasant settings and is known for its delightful staff and an array of selections made from the freshest and highest-quality ingredients. Try the West Texas-style flat enchiladas with a fried egg on top or the hot, fresh gorditas.

COURTESY OF REATA

Commemorating the meeting between Presidents William Howard Taft (U.S.) and Porfirio Díaz (Mexico) in 1909, this restaurant, located in the Stanton House boutique hotel, celebrates the fusion of flavors resulting from border-crossing diplomacy. Not your typical hotel restaurant, the upscale setting features octopus and pork confit tacos, enhanced by a spicy salsa verde and touch of fermented lemon. The unusual tempura artichoke tacos combine the main ingredient with salsa macha, mushrooms and black bean puree. But nothing says fusion like the MX vichyssoise, featuring leeks, potatoes and pasado chiles. The two presidents, meanwhile, vie for attention with burgers named in their honor (Taft’s with smoked cheddar and bacon, Díaz’s showcasing chorizo fondue and green chiles). — stanton-house.com/taft-diaz

CHICO'S TACOS

CHICO’S TACOS, EL PASO, FOUR LOCATIONS

LA CASITA, ALPINE, 1104 E. AVENUE H

A small restaurant chain with an oversized reputation, Chico’s Tacos was founded in 1953 — 70 years ago — and is probably El Paso's best-known restaurant. In 2009, it was featured on the Food Network’s The Best Thing I Ever Ate (2009) and was the subject of a comedy bit in Gabriel Iglesias’ stand-up act, I’m Not Fat … I’m Fluffy, on Comedy Central. Famed New York Times food critic Frank Bruni singled out Chico’s in a recap of his cross-country tour of America’s best fast food. The signature dish features three rolled and fried beef tacos drenched in cheese and tomato chili sauce. That can be a bit much for some diners, which is why locals caution that the restaurant may be “an acquired taste.” In addition to the tacos, Chico’s also serves burritos, burgers and hot dogs. Aside from the hours — which are now 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. — things at Chico’s remain the same decade after decade. Clean and inexpensive — with service that’s quick and friendly. And still cash only. IG: @chicostacosofficial

A hidden gem to all but the locals, La Casita offers fresh food, generous portions, and fast, friendly service in its compact, clean space. Try the half order of deluxe campechanas or a smothered combination burrito with grilled onion and jalapeños. The eatery has just a handful of tables, and the place is almost always packed. But it’s well worth any wait to enjoy the authentic Mexican food. THE BEAN CAFE RESTAURANT-BAR, PRESIDIO, 506 W. O’REILLY ST.

This popular local eatery with the gracious staff features fried chicken, chopped steak, sandwiches, salads and Mexican cuisine — not to mention French pancakes, croissants and French toast. Club sandwiches, too. The intimate atmosphere is clean and inviting, allowing visitors to kick back, relax and enjoy the prompt service, generous portions and reasonable prices.

FROM TOP: WENDY LITTLE, CISCO GAMEZ

STARLIGHT THEATRE, TERLINGUA, 631 IVEY RD.

Proclaiming itself “the finest dining establishment of the entire Terlingua Ghost Town,” the Starlight offers a mix of Texas and Mexican cuisine with a full bar and, frequently, live entertainment. The Starlight Theatre opened in the 1930s as the Chisos Theater. Movies were shown at the Chisos until it closed in the late 1940s. In 1991 the building was given a facelift and reopened as the Starlight Theatre Restaurant and Bar. This former movie palace serves up ribeyes, burgers and stunning mountain views. You can’t go wrong with the chicken-fried antelope steak — complemented by the tantalizing aroma of the brown gravy — and the tequila marinated quail, two mostly boned birds, tender and delicious. — thestarlighttheatre.com

STARLIGHT THEATRE

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BRICK VAULT BREWERY AND BARBECUE

Drinks CHÂTEAU WRIGHT, FORT DAVIS, 125 BLUE MOUNTAIN TRAIL

Nestled in the scenic Davis Mountains, this high-elevation vineyard produces quality artisanal wines from 100 percent Texas grapes. The winery is committed to producing exceptional wines that showcase the unique flavors and characteristics of the region. The tasting room is open every weekend from 12–6 p.m., with extended hours and days during the tourist season. — chateauwright.com

COW DOG COW DOG, ALPINE, 301 E. HOLLAND AVE.

For those who relish hot dogs, the reopening of Cow Dog in fall 2023 was welcome news. And while the food truck is under new ownership, fans of the legendary eatery can rest assured that preserving the tradition — and flavors — that have made Cow Dog a far West Texas icon is the top priority. The menu, the owners assure, will remain the same. “We look forward to serving up the original Cow Dog recipes,” they say. In addition to hot dogs — beef dogs to vegetable dogs — this camper-turned-food-truck serves sausages, sandwiches (try the barbeque pork), steak fries and green chili mac & cheese in the same friendly style that has earned the truck enthusiastic praise and steadfast allegiance. The mission of Cow Dog has been simple yet heartfelt: to bring joy to the region through the happiness of hot dogs. 78 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

Just steps from the Gage Hotel, this watering hole and eatery gets its name from a brick vault in the back that was part of the original building built in 1886. The beer recipes resonate with the region — from a crisp Mexican Lager to a sweet pecan porter — and pair perfectly with the BBQ. Options for locally made beer in West Texas took a big hit when Big Bend Brewery in Alpine ceased operations late in 2018. Luckily for beer lovers in the area, though, this craft brewery opened in April 2018 and features six of its own beers. A full barbecue menu is available Thursday through Sunday. — brickvaultbreweryandbbq.com MARFA SPIRIT CO., MARFA, 320 W. EL PASO ST.

What was once a warehouse used in World War I is now home to a bar and distillery, which makes a handful of spirits, most notably sotol, a liquor distilled from indigenous plants. The Marfa Spirit Company doesn’t actually make sotol — it just completes the process. Their Chihuahuan Desert Sotol 80 and 90 proof comes all the way from Janos, Chihuahua, in Mexico. The company then distills it, bottles it for distribution and serves it along with other unique op-

FROM TOP COURTESY OF BRICK VAULT BREWERY AND BARBECUE; COURTESY OF COW DOG

BRICK VAULT BREWERY AND BARBECUE, MARATHON, 102 NW 1ST ST., HWY 90W

tions — such as Chihuahuan Desert Rum, Gin and Vodka, made from a corn-based neutral spirit, 10 times filtered and proofed with Marfa water. — themarfaspirit.com

turn their chili, sit and stew while a team of judges samples the final entries before declaring a winner. Camping is available, and proceeds go to fighting ALS. — abowlofred.com

DEADBEACH BREWERY, EL PASO, 406 DURANGO ST.

TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP, RANCHO CASI DE LOS CHISOS, HWY 170

Established in 2015, Deadbeach Brewery is home to big, bold, flavorful beers. With names like Vaquero Lager and Abuelita Stout, this brewery pulls together a diverse blend of brews suitable for all palates. The brewery’s tap menu varies from week to week. Because of the brewery’s focus on quality beer, it has managed to partner with hundreds of restaurants and have more than 350 taps available across El Paso as well as in Marfa and Abilene. Owners say the inspiration for the establishment comes from the red glow of the Franklin Mountains and the hard-working people of Sun City. — deadbeach.com

The annual CASI Chili Championship features a jampacked schedule of activities, including eight world-class food contests. Participants can compete for honors in categories like salsa, buffalo hot wings, margarita and beans. But once Saturday arrives, all focus is on chili as the festival culminates in the Terlingua International Chili Championship. — casichili.net

GAGE HOTEL RANCH WATER

The “Unofficial Cocktail of West Texas,” Ranch Water has developed an impressive fan base — and an equally impressive debate about both its proper ingredients and its origins. Some hold that the drink was first concocted at the Gage Hotel’s White Buffalo Bar in Marathon. In fact, the cocktail has been on the bar’s menu for as long as employees can recall, made margarita-style with tequila, Cointreau and lime, then topped with Topo Chico. J.P. Bryan purchased the Gage in 1978, and now his granddaughter, Eloise Bryan, serves as marketing director. She expresses the ambiguity surrounding the drink’s beginnings. “The origin is fuzzy,” Bryan says, “but it’s likely we were one of the first places to serve it.” But there’s no need to fight. Ranch Water is made for evenings on the patio or floating down rivers in a rented tube. It’s light, adaptable, refreshing and devoid of hangoverinducing sugary syrups. So just enjoy the delectable drink.

Events/Festivals

COURTESY OF EL PASO WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL

AGAVE FESTIVAL, MARFA, HOTEL SAINT GEORGE, 105 S. HIGHLAND AVE.

This annual festival celebrates the succulent plant — with rosettes of narrow spiny leaves and tall flower spikes — and its influence on culture through film, music, science and spirits. Scholars, artists and visitors alike converge on the area to hear panels on the state of agave spirits, to take in talks from prominent authors, and to enjoy guided tours through the Chihuahuan desert. During 2023’s four-day festival, renowned agricultural ecologist Gary Nabhan spoke about the culture of agave and biodiversity. Nabhan's latest book explores the past, present and future of mezcals. — agavemarfa.com FRANK X. TOLBERT-WICK FOWLER ORIGINAL TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP COOK-OFF

This famed event has its origins in 1967 with a cook off between New Yorker H. Allen Smith and Texas legend Wick Fowler — to settle the dispute over whether Texans or New Yorkers knew more about chili. The contest ended in a draw. More than 50 years later, the event draws thousands of attendees to Terlingua on the first weekend of November. After plenty of ladling, tasting and deliberating, competitors

EL PASO WINEFEST

EL PASO WINEFEST, DOWNTOWN EL PASO

The annual El Paso Winefest showcases more than 100 wineries, featuring their finest selection of more than 500 wines, combined with food prepared by prominent El Paso eateries. The festival, which is held each October, brings together the best of El Paso’s culinary scene with acclaimed local chefs and fine wines in the heart of downtown. The Grand Tasting features wines from around the world along with bites from some of El Paso’s finest restaurants. — elpasowinefest.com SPIRITS OF THE WEST WINE & BEEF FESTIVAL, ALPINE

A unique culinary event in Alpine, the Spirits of the West allows Texas wineries, distilleries and breweries to offer three days of pairings of wine and spirits with signature appetizers, most using Big Bend ranch-raised beef. Sponsored by Alpine’s Artwalk, the event showcases signature beef bites from local beef companies to honor the area’s long-time tradition of cattle ranching. In addition, hand-picked Texas wineries and distilleries provide a homegrown pairing that highlights far West Texas’ gourmet fair. The jam-packed schedule includes a wine tasting class for wine enthusiasts, and the event features live music, fine art, workshops and grilling demonstrations. — spiritsfestwtx.com No matter what you desire, the eateries, drinking establishments and festivals of far West Texas offer an abundance of distinctive and eccentric options that confirms what the National Park Service has stated: the Big Bend region is Texas’ gift to the nation. As the increase in visitors over the past 60 years testifies, more and more people are discovering the pleasures of enjoying one of the most inspiring and diverse regions in the country. BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 79

Last Look

Travelers seeking an oasis in the desert need only look to Marfa — elevation 4,685 feet — and the Marfa Spirit Co, housed in what was once a World War I warehouse, which serves up sotol cocktails from Marfa’s lone distillery. But that’s hardly the only drinking establishment in the region: authentic saloons, Mexican cantinas, artisanal breweries, wine-tasting rooms, Western-themed bars and more dot the landscape of far West Texas, reflecting the area’s rich history and the varied interests of residents and visitors. The diversity of drinking establishments mirrors the eclectic mix of people, cultures and landscapes that define this remote corner of the Lone Star State. 80 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

COURTESY OF MARFA SPIRITS

High Spirits