37563 Edible San Antonio

2020 Winter Issue - Issue No. 37

CONTENTS

"CPWF Chef Johnny Hernandez welcomes FWFSZPOF Uo Paella Challenge (Photo by Frederic Covo) $PWFS Contender for the crown at Paella Challenge 2019 (Photo by Angela Covo)

2

FOOD FOR THOUGHT 4QSJOH JT DPNJOH

28

MIMI’S HEIRLOOM RECIPES Kiss me, I’m Basque!

4

ADVISORY COUNCIL

30

LOCAL DINING GUIDE Eat Local with Us

5

LITTLE BITES Hemp Update, SXSW and more

32

PERSONAL TRADITION Traditional Paella

18

NEWS YOU CAN USE Spring Bloom, Scholarships

34

LOCAL TRADITION Students Shine at Paella Challenge

20

FEEDING HOPE New Culinary Center

37

THE RECIPE Make Your Own Paella

22

LOCAL FARMERS MARKETS Where and When

38

CLASSIC TRADITION Fire and Rice

23

FOOD FOR THE SOUL Local Inspiration

42

EDIBLE DESTINATION Historical Quebec

24

RANCH LIFE Vet Visits and Banana Pudding

47

LOCAL PINTS Dos Sirenos Brewing

26

ELENA’S SEASONAL FLAVORS A Taste of 4PSSFOUP

48

THE LAST BITE Rise ediblesanantonio.com

1

edible

food for thought

JUMP INTO SPRING Spring is coming, and we thought it would be handy to have this veggie planting chart for Region 8, courtesy Urban Farmer. Enjoy!

SAN ANTONIO® PUBLISHER Frederic C. Covo EDITORINCHIEF Angela Covo MANAGING EDITOR Delia Covo CREATIVE DIRECTOR Sophie Covo Gonzales BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Christopher Covo CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Marianne Odom, Amanda Covo CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

James Canter, Melissa Cookston Elena D’Agostino, Marcy Epperson Mimi Faubert, Heather Fazio Michael Guerra, J.E. Jordan Ana Kinkaid, Noi Mahoney Michelle Newman, C. Romo De Vivar Michael Sohocki, Dave Terrazas, Thomas Zamudio DESIGN & LAYOUT

Florence Edwards, Pixel Power Graphics Cover photo by Angela Covo CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Jarvis Ely, Brenna Huff Matt Martinez, Wilfredo Rodriguez Raymond Tijerina, Carole Topalian

FINANCE MANAGER Louis Gonzales

0VS IFBSUGFMU UIBOLT UP UIF GSJFOET BOE CVTJOFTTFT XIP NBLF UIJT NBHB[JOF QPTTJCMF Remember to like us on Facebook www.Facebook.com/EdibleSanAntonio LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Please call 210-274-6572 or email angela@ediblesanantonio.com ADVERTISING Please call 210-365-8046 or email fred@ediblesanantonio.com

i5IF HBSEFO TVHHFTUT UIFSF NJHIU CF B QMBDF XIFSF XF DBO NFFU OBUVSF IBMGXBZ w Michael Pollen, Second Nature: A Gardener’s Education

Homegrown Media LLC publishes Edible San Antonio every eight weeks.

Distribution is throughout South Central Texas and nationally by subscription.

Your annual subscriptions support the mission and are $35 annually.

Please order online at www.EdibleSA.com or call (210) 365-8046 to order by phone.

We make every effort to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and let us know. Thank you. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ª "MM SJHIUT SFTFSWFE Member of Edible Communities

2

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

La Bonne Vie Ranch, located just a short drive from downtown Fredericksburg, boasts acres of unspoiled pastoral views. With grape vineyards, a tranquil stream, and luxury facilities to spoil you and your guests.

www.LABONNEVIERANCH.com 1827 Pfiester Road ‡ Fredericksburg TX 78624 ‡ info@labonnevieranch.com ‡ 210-651-2506 ediblesanantonio.com

3

a special thank you EDIBLE SAN ANTONIO

4

ADVISORY COUNCIL

Chef Michael Sohocki

Leslie Komet Ausburn

Darryl Byrd

Sandy Winokur, Ph. D

Roberta Churchin

Marianne Odom

Chef Stephen Paprocki

Adam Rocha

Di-Anna Arias

Chef Johnny Hernandez

Bob Webster

Chef Jeff White

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

little bites

MORE CULINARY ADVENTURES AT THE WITTE BUGS FOR DINNER!

T

he Bug Bites dinner returns to the Witte at 7 p.m. on March 26, and this season, the collaboration between the Chef Cooperatives and the Witte will be a veritable feast.

Come spend an unforgettable evening with Chef Stephen Paprocki, Chef Robert Nathan Allen and the $IFG Cooperatives as they curate an unforgettable evening experience using insects. Explore the untapped culinary potential of this global delicacy with carefully crafted tastes from more than 25 local chefs in the Valero Great Hall and Texas Wild Garden. And, while you’re there, see the Witte’s newest wonderful exhibition, Backyard Adventures.

SUSTAINABLE FOOD

During the dinner, learn how edible insects exist in kitchens around the world today and why they are considered the future of food. It turns out that insects are 80 percent protein by weight, contain energy-rich fats and are loaded with micro-nutrients. Plus, they have a tiny carbon footprint.

From “coffee-blackened chapulines street tacos with avocado crema, pico, cilantro and lime� and “roasted orange-ant mole, beet labneh stuffed squash blossom, ant-sumac dried tangerines and oranges with ant salt as garnish� to “Classic Cricket Carrot Cake with luscious .ascarpone frosting, goat milk Cajeta drizzle topped with Candied Cricket Crumble� and so many more creative dishes, chances are you’ll soon consider the highly sustainable bug bites dinner fit for a gourmand.

The menu will include all kinds of creatures prepared in so many delectable ways – but for the faint of heart, there will also be less adventurous non-buggy bites, too.

NO BUGS IN THE DRINKS

There may not be any bugs in the drinks, but you will certainly enjoy washing your bug bites down with local refreshments from sponsors Whiskey Republic, Dripping Springs, Devil’s River Whiskey and Alamo Beer while dancing the night BXBZ with DJ Four 40 Entertainment. You’ll also get to build your own beer garden and take home your design as a souvenir.

Join the Witte on March 26 and help create the world’s largest bug tasting event in North America. 5IJT EJOOFS TFMMT PVU RVJDLMZ FWFSZ ZFBS TP EPO U XBJU UP QVSDIBTF ZPVS UJDLFUT Tickets are available at CJU MZ #6(#*5&4 . 1MFBTF OPUF UIJT TQFDJBM FWFOU JT SFTFSWFE GPS HVFTUT BOE PWFS For more information, call Witte Reservations at 210.357.1910. ediblesanantonio.com

5

little bites

Sandra Spalding of Twin Liquors shares insights at SACC. (Photo courtesy)

6

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

LESSONS LEARNED AT 2020 SACC

T

he 2020 San Antonio Cocktail Conference (SACC) wrapped up last month, featuring five days of parties BOE seminars DFMFCSBUJOH DSBGU DPDLUBJMT /PX JO JUT OJOUI year, SACC brings together some of the world’s best bartenders, mixologists, industry professionals, as well as cocktail enthusiasts looking for an exciting new drink.

We overheard rum drinks could trend in 2020, so we caught up with Sandra Spalding, Twin Liquors’ director of marketing and community, who was at SACC hosting a seminar titled “WSET – A Systematic Approach to Tasting Spirits� and she shared her thoughts about Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) certifications, and of course, rum.

Ms. Spalding has worked in hospitality for more than 25 years. Originally from Southern California with a degree in art history, she and her husband moved to Austin around 2000. In Austin, she accepted a position at Twin Liquors, recognizing in the family-run company a kindred spirit and shared vision. And for the last 12 years, she’s also been immersed in the world of nonprofits, touching around 450 events per year through Twin Liquors’ community outreach.

Her seminar at SACC was an overview of the WSET and was set up for people who are interested in pursuing further accreditation by WSET, and to give wine enthusiasts a sense of what the tasting component and certification process is like.

Ms. Spalding hosted the seminar alongside Rob McCaughey, Senior Business Dev Manager, Spirits and Sake at WSET.

FEJCMF 4": What demographic is most interested in the Twin Liquors Wine Academy for WSET certifications? Older or younger? Male or female?

4BOESB Twin Liquors currently offers WSET Level 1 Wine, Level 1 Spirits, Level 2 Wine and Level 2 Spirits. We offer the certifications to our staff and hope to open up classes to the public in the future.

FEJCMF 4": Are the certifications just for people who want to work in the industry or be professional sommeliers? Or would a hobbyist benefit?

4BOESB While folks in the industry pursue the WSET certification for more formal education, hobbyists are also welcome to take the class. In fact, when we hosted a public event in the fall of 2019, we had a great response from hobbyist-level men and women alike. The age range seemed to be people in their 30s and 40s.

FEJCMF 4": What do you think is going to be the big new cocktail or spirit of 2020?

4BOESB With an increase in consumer’s spirit education, I think we’ll see more open to experiencing rum in 2020. This specific spirit frequently confuses consumers and is often la-beled as sweet, since it is made with molasses or cane juice. However, spirits are vinified dry, so while some distillers can add sugar postdistillation, many rums are very dry. With so many styles available from all over the world, I believe with continued education, folks will be able to understand that there is a rum for every type of palate, and we’ll continue to see the category grow.

FEJCMF 4": Do you have a favorite place to drink when you visit San Antonio?

4BOESB So many great spots! I love to relax at La Cantera Resort & Spa, and when I want to get into the mix of it all, I head downtown to Bohanan’s. _ /PJ .BIPOFZ

ediblesanantonio.com

7

little bites

Raucous and joyful, Uhe Pontiac takeover of Jet-Setter was a great success. (Photo by Noi Mahoney)

THE PONTIAC TAKEOVER OF JETSETTER BROUGHT A TASTE OF HONG KONG TO SA

T

he line to get in wrapped around the block when The Pontiac, famed Hong Kong bar, took over San Antonio’s Jet-Setter for one night, serving up Jack Daniels-inspired drinks in an Asian wonderland during the San Antonio Cocktail Conference.

The pop-up, which took place Jan. 17, was a unique experience from the moment patrons arrived at the front door, where women in flight attendant uniforms greeted guests with mini-suitcase gifts upon entering “Honk Kong,” to when they descended the steps into the bar decorated with red lanterns and willow trees, a DJ spinning cool beats and an additional underground backbar (complete with graffiti on the walls) serving up Jack Daniels straight.

Meanwhile, in keeping with the theme, restaurateur Kristina Zhao of Sichuan House put together a terrific menu of Asian-inspired street food eats delivered from a one-night food truck at the entrance – with a team that included local Chefs Michael Grimes and Teddy Liang.

The pop-up bar was led by The Pontiac co-owner and “Queen of the Bar” Beckaly Franks and her assistant Arlene Wong, who flew in from Hong Kong for the event.

The Pontiac has been named one of Asia’s 50 Best Bars for four consecutive years, from 2016 to 2019, and was ranked as the best late-night watering hole in Hong Kong’s central district by Conde Nast magazine.

Benjamin Krick, who launched Jet-Setter and later, Pastiche, with co-owner Lucas Bradbury, said the idea for Jet-Setter’s Hong Kong takeover was inspired when he visited The Pontiac several years ago.

8

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

“We really wanted to take the international concept of Jet-Setter to a whole new level, bringing the best bars from around the world, especially those that I had visited,” Mr. Krick explained. “When I went to Southeast Asia, I met Beckaly at The Pontiac and loved their service.”

Mr. Krick said he’s always loved the concept of hosting pop-ups, something he used to do at his former cocktail bar, Juniper Tar. “At Juniper Tar, I brought the best bars from Mexico and the best bars from Puerto Rico, but unfortunately, Juniper Tar closed,” Mr. Krick said. “So, this year, we wanted to come back even stronger.”

The Pontiac is a rock n’ roll craft cocktail bar that evokes a “Coyote Ugly” feel with its predominately female staff and rocker chic vibe, but still exudes an air of continental class in keeping with Jet-Setter’s international style.

PARALLEL MISSIONS

“We planned this event for months, and here we are with over 1000 RSVPs,” Mr. Krick said. “What Beckaly is doing is kind of trailblazing in Hong Kong – we’re on the same mission here in San Antonio.”

Along with Hong Kong-inspired decorations, LGBT rainbow flags around the bar were part of setting the scene to replicate The Pontiac in Hong Kong, but also intended to underscore the fact that Jet-Setter supports all people.

“The Pontiac separates itself with their ideals and beliefs in a country that is very strict in very many ways. They stand for what they believe in,” Mr. Krick added. “So today, we just mimicked what we could of their actual bar at home. We wanted to have that entire feeling here, as if you were in The Pontiac in Hong Kong.” ~ Noi Mahoney

SMOKEGRILLED LAMB Celebrity Chef Melissa Cookston recently shared her award-winning recipe from her cookbook, “Smokin’ in the Boys’ Room.” We thought this grilled lamb would be perfect for any spring holiday.

“I believe the best flavors can be achieved by setting up a 2-zone grill and giving the lamb just a little bit of smoke flavor before finishing it off with a quick sear,” Chef Cookston explained. “If you have a gas grill, a 2-zone fire is as simple as turning one side to low (or off, depending upon the size of the grill) and one side to medium-high or high. With a charcoal grill, it’s almost as easy.

Simply use 80 percent of your coals on one side of the grill, placing approximately 20 percent on the other just to provide some heat.”

SMOKEGRILLED RACK OF LAMB INGREDIENTS 'PS 3BDL PG -BNC 2 racks of lamb, frenched 2 tablespoons Memphis Barbecue Company Ultimate BBQ Rub 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1/2 cup Memphis Barbecue Company Original BBQ Sauce 'PS .BSJOBEF 1/2 cup olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, coarsely chopped 1 tablespoon Italian parsley, chopped 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon coarse ground black pepper 1 teaspoon fresh oregano, coarsely chopped 5 to 6 fresh basil leaves, chopped

DIRECTIONS In a small bowl, whisk together all marinade ingredients.

Place racks of lamb in large resealable plastic bags and pour in marinade.

Seal tightly, pressing out as much air as possible, UIFO marinate 4-6 hours, turning the bags every 2 hours.

Prepare a grill for a 2-zone fire. As grill is heating, remove racks from marinade, discarding marinade.

Pat racks dry, taking time to clean the 'SFODIFE bones.

Brush meat with mustard, then sprinkle with BBQ Rub. Cover bones with a piece of foil to ensure they don’t char, then UBLF PVU of fridge 30 minutes before placing on grill.

Place lamb on cooler part of the grill, using 1-2 chunks of cherry or pecan wood in the grill if possible.

Allow to cook for 30 minutes to 1 hour (will depend on type of grill and temperature) or until internal temperature reaches 125°F. Place racks on hotter part of grill and sear, brushing with BBQ Sauce.

Remove racks when temperature reaches 135°-140°F. 5his will give you a rack of lamb with medium doneness.

Remove from grill, allow to rest, and slice between the bones to cut into chops.

For more recipes or to learn more about Chef Cookston, visit melissacookston.com.

ediblesanantonio.com

9

little bites

Julia Child (Courtesy of The Julia Child Foundation)

10

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

CHEF

JULIA CHILD RETURNS TO THE SCREEN

N

ine of America’s most popular chefs – JosÊ AndrÊs, Rick Bayless, Carla Hall, Vivian Howard, Sara Moulton, Jacques PÊpin, Éric Ripert, Marcus Samuelsson and Martha Stewart – pay USJCVUF UP UIF PSJHJOBM 57 $IFG JO B OFX six-part series presented by PBS. When Julia Child’s seminal show The French Chef debuted in 1963, not a soul imagined she would change the way Americans thought about cooking forever. But with her charm, distinctive voice and infectious passion for French cuisine, she demystified classic dishes and empowered and inspired millions of home cooks and professional chefs.

Part of PBS’s 50th anniversary celebration of the iconic personalities that shaped both broadcast history and pop culture, DISHING WITH JULIA CHILD is a delightful look at the friendly chef through the eyes of today’s professionals. Many are PBS personalities who continue Chef Child’s legacy, bringing a sense of fun and the joy of cooking into American homes.

An affectionate look at a true pioneer, the nine renowned chefs gather to screen and delight in favorite episodes of Chef Child’s iconic show. As they watch and share memories, anecdotes and a few laughs, they also discuss the immeasurable impact she’s had on their lives, careers and the American food scene. “DISHING WITH JULIA CHILD showcases how pioneering and timeless Julia Child’s television teaching is. The Foundation is thrilled PBS has connected some of

+VMJB T JDPOJD FQJTPEFT UP UIF TUSFBNJOH BHF UISPVHI UIF FZFT PG chefs who embody her legacy,� Eric W. Spivey, chair of The Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts, explained.

And, of course, they may be introducing a whole new audience to the talented, charming and down-toearth chef who generously shared a wealth of information in every episode.

Starting Feb. 28, the six half-hour episodes of the new program will stream exclusively on PBS Passport and PBS Living on Amazon Prime Video channels and Apple TV. The series XJMM IBWF its broadcast premiere on three consecutive Friday nights ‰ April 3 "QSJM April 17 GSPN Q N UP Q N &5 (check local listings) on PBS, PBS.org and the PBS Video app. “We are more than excited to be bringing for the very first-time original content to the PBS Living Prime Video Channel,� Andrea Downing, co-president of PBS Distribution, said. “Julia Child pioneered what cooking shows have become today and to get a once-in-alifetime look at how she impacted the master chefs of the modern age is truly a treat.�

Jerry Liwanag, vice president of PBS Fundraising Programming, agrees. “This nostalgic series is just one example of the rich food and culture programming that PBS makes available to audiences across multiple platforms,� he added.

This walk down memory lane is truly worth your time ‌ FOKPZ BOE #PO "QQ�UJU

“%*4)*/( 8*5) +6-*" $)*-% showcases how pioneering and timeless Julia Child’s television teaching is. The Foundation is thrilled PBS has connected some of Julia’s iconic episodes to the streaming age through the eyes of chefs who embody her legacy � — ERIC SPIVEY, CHAIR OF THE JULIA CHILD FOUNDATION FOR GASTRONOMY AND THE CULINARY ARTS ediblesanantonio.com

11

little bites

SouthBites will be back @SXSW2020, too. (Photo by 'SFEFSJD Covo)

FOOD HEADLINES ď˜łSXSW

T

here’s always a little something for everybody at South by Southwest Conference (SXSW) in Austin, which takes place from March 13 to March 22, but this year, food is a headliner. Enjoy more than 50 food panels, at least two great live foodie podcasts, two foodie films and an entire trade show devoted to the Future of Food.

On March 14, visit #FutureFoodSXSW and explore technologies, innovations and ideas being proposed to build a better future food system. This official SXSW event will be open to the public (SXSW badge-holders will have priority) at the WeWork Food Lab in the SXSW Building and will feature acclaimed and up-and-coming chefs cooking one-bites with future food JOHSFEJFOUT (think seaweed, kelp, bugs and more) and startups sampling forward-thinking food and beverages.

Learn even more at several panel sessions from food systems experts and industry leaders and future food-focused activations.

On March 15 at 5 p.m., Bon AppĂŠtit Editor-in-Chief Adam Rapoport will bring the #1 podcast in food – the Bon Appetit Foodcast – with interviews with chefs, writers and anyone who has something cool to say about food. In this live edition, Adam will be joined by Chefs Gabe Erales and Philip Speer of Austin’s Comedor to discuss a wave of sober chefs seeking to make the restaurant industry healthier and more supportive. Carla Lalli Music and Andy Baraghani from the BA Test Kitchen will appear on stage for a fun ‘Ask Us Anything’ session. And they promise no (foodie) question is off limits!

Bonus for teachers or parents: The Muse School will present a free hands-on workshop during SXSW EDU GSPN B N UP Q N PO .BSDI BU UIF "VTUJO $POWFOUJPO $FOUFS 5he Cactus Makes Perfect session will teach participants to weave academics into cooking, with the opportunity to make tortillas and nopal salads.

Two food-related documentaries, Donut King and Uncorked, will premiere at SXSW this year. And there are so many food panels, we decided to list them for you. In the meantime, hurry up and get your badges at SXSW.com and enjoy exploring the future of everything this year. _ "OHFMB $PWP 12

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

THE LIST! FOOD PANELS @SXSW 2020 21st Century Proteins In A Changing Climate Meet Up ...................................................... Mar 15 Africa Nourishing the World: Leveraging Innovation & Tech .............................................. Mar 18 The Amazing World of Dairy Happy Hour ........................................................................... Mar 15 Aquaculture: Using Popular Media to Save Wild Salmon ....................................................Mar 14 Bon AppÊtit Foodcast ......................................................................................................... Mar 15 Bugs & Kelp, the Future Foods Feeding Us in 2030 ...........................................................Mar 14 Building a More Compassionate Society Through Food .................................................... Mar 16 Chinese Food: A Chef, A Scholar, Some Stories ................................................................. Mar 16 Computational Creativity for Gastronomy ...........................................................................Mar 17 Curating Taste: Producing Unscripted Content ...................................................................Mar 17 The Data-Driven Food System: From Soil to Supper ...........................................................Mar 14 A Data-Driven Look at America’s Food Neuroses .............................................................. Mar 15 The Donut King (FILM) several showings ............................................................................Mar 14 Elevating Our Food System With Vertical Farming ..............................................................Mar 17 Empowering Minority Founders in a Food Revolution ....................................................... Mar 15 Extreme Food Localism Interconnects the World ................................................................Mar 17 Farmers: On The Front Line of a Changing Planet ............................................................. Mar 16 Featured Session: Hot Takes from the Bon AppÊtit Test Kitchen ....................................... Mar 15 Featured Notes From a Young Black Chef with Kwame Onwuachi .................................... Mar 15 Feeding the Force: Innovating the Army’s Supply Chain ...................................................Mar 20 From Next to Now: African Food Culture ........................................................................... Mar 16 From the Soil to the Soul .....................................................................................................Mar 14 The Future of Consumer Packaged Goods (CPGs) Meet Up .............................................. Mar 15 The Future of Food by Texas A&M University ..................................................................... Mar 15 The Future of Food @ SXSW ................................................................................................Mar 14 The Future of Hospitality .................................................................................................... Mar 16 Gastronomic Sciences Meet Edo Sustainability ................................................................. Mar 15 The Genius Life Podcast with Max Lugavere and Molly Maloof ......................................... Mar 16 How Instagram Became Your Personal Chef by The UT Austin ........................................... Mar13 Incidental Startup – Creating Solutions as Necessity .........................................................Mar 14 Innovation Drives Wellness ................................................................................................ Mar 16 Innovation in Food Tech ..................................................................................................... Mar 15 Kwame Onwuachi Book Signing ........................................................................................ Mar 15 Making a Difference: Tech to Feed the Future ....................................................................Mar 17 Making Farming Fun Again ..................................................................................................Mar 17 Multi-Purpose Jelly Food: From Emergency to Gastronomy ...............................................Mar 17 Nature Tech Meets Body Tech .............................................................................................Mar 17 Optimize Your Gut, Settle Your Mind ...................................................................................Mar 14 Pizza: From Old Napoli to New Japan .................................................................................Mar 17 The Plant-Based Future Will Save Small Businesses .......................................................... Mar 16 Reimagining Sustenance: Food Equality for All .................................................................. Mar 16 Rethinking Food Technology with Gen Z ............................................................................ Mar 18 Reviving Japanese Sake, Food & Farm Traditions ..............................................................Mar 14 The Science of Plant-Based Eating ......................................................................................Mar 13 Team First: Inclusivity in Restaurant Culture ...................................................................... Mar 16 Today’s Dad, Disconnected Until Purposeful ...................................................................... Mar 15 Trend to Revolution: The Rise of Plant-Based Everything ...................................................Mar 13 Umami Revolution: How Natto Will Save Us All ...................................................................Mar 17 Uncorked FILM ................................................................................................................... Mar 19 The US/Mexico Border and the Food System ..................................................................... Mar 16 What’s in an Egg? Decoding Labels for Social Good ...........................................................Mar 14 The Whole Truth about Whole Grains ..................................................................................Mar 14 Why Open-Source Technologies Will Help End Hunger ......................................................Mar 14 William Li Book Signing ...................................................................................................... Mar 18

a i s A et k ar M

亚 亚 洲 洲 超 超 市 市

est. 1997

THE ORIGINAL ASIA SUPERMARKET mon. tue. wed. fri. sat.

10 am - 9 pm

market days thurs.

9 am to 10:30 pm sun.

10 am - 8 pm

5732 Evers Road San Antonio, Texas 78238 asiamarketsatx@gmail.com

Tasting Room Hours

Just 4.2 miles from downtown Fredericksburg, the estate features 40 acres of vineyards and 4 boutique Texas brands including the wines of 1851 Vineyards.

The historic farm, settled in 1851, is the location of the first Pioneer Flour Mill, founded by Carl Hilmar Guenther.

Thursday-Saturday: 11-6pm Sunday-Monday: 12-5pm

WWW.SLATEMILLWINECOLLECTIVE.COM

Wine tastings are available during open hours and private cellar tours are available by appointment. info@slatemillwinecolletive.com

4222 S STATE HWY 16, FREDERICKSBURG, TX 78624 • 830.391.8510 ediblesanantonio.com

13

little bites

Marsha, Emmit and Luis Morales officially open SayTown. (Photo by Angela Covo)

SAYTOWN OPENS AT PEARL BOTTLING DEPT

L

uis and Marsha Morales, owners of Humble House Foods, just opened their latest family venture, SayTown Tacos, a brick and mortar space at Pearl Bottling Dept.

Entrepreneurship was always in the cards for Mr. Morales, his father, Luis Morales, Sr. shared.

“I remember when he was a little boy, we used to go across the border to buy candy,” he said. “He could never get enough, and I wondered where it was all going.”

It turns out, even as an elementary school student, young Luis was building a business, selling the candy he saved to his friends.

As his business grew, the principal got wind of it and called his father, who was happy to learn he wasn’t actually eating all that candy.

Dad told him to stop selling the candy to the kids at school. But the next time they went to Mexico and picked up treats, little Luis still said he needed more. They got the extra treats, but Mr. Morales, Sr. never heard from the principal again.

He was a little concerned, so he checked in with Luis to make sure he had stopped selling the candy to his friends. Mr. Morales, Sr. couldn’t help but laugh when he got his answer.

“No problem, Dad, the teachers are buying it,” little Luis said.

Fast forward a decade (or two) later, and while his taste in food changed – little Luis grew up to be a great chef and a local food champion – his entrepreneurial skills only grew. From one little

14

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

booth at Pearl Farmers Market where he and his now-wife Marsha cooked up a storm using ingredients from the farmers to showcase their delicious pesto, hummus and other sauces, to an expanded line that included his now famous Humble House sauces, to placing in H-E-B’s Quest for Texas Best, the hard work, passion and honor he conducted his small business with was paying off.

The little farmers market stand doubled in size, then tripled. H-E-B picked up his sauces, the booth turned into a gorgeous huge food trailer. And now, from their sparkling kitchen at Pearl Bottling Dept., Mr. and Mrs. Morales – and their beautiful baby boy Emmit – will offer six unique taco options including the “Riverwalk-O-Taco” made with fresh flour tortillas, chicken, pickles, cheese and crema, the “Fiesta Fuego” which consists of homemade corn tortillas, pork, vegetables, cheese, cilantro and lime, the “Popfather,” paying homage to Coach Popovich of the San Antonio Spurs with a crispy tortilla, potatoes, vegetables, crema and cheese, and other options.

The menu also includes select sides like rice and beans, buñuelos, aguas frescas (you have to try the Mexican chocolate milk, but our favorite, hands-down, is the Strawberry Hibiscus) and delicious desserts at affordable prices.

SayTown is open every day starting at 11 a.m., and while they no longer sell at Pearl Farmers Market, you can still pick up Humble House Hot Sauces at H-E-B and all their products online at HumbleHouseFoods. com. For more information about SayTown, visit SAYTOWN.com.

little bites

NEW TALENT AT THE ESQUIRE

T

he Esquire, an institution on the San Antonio Riverwalk for nearly 90 years, just announced Alexander Villarreal will take over as Bar Manager and Emilio Baez will be the new Sous Chef for Downstairs at The Esquire Tavern.

Mr. Villarreal is an avid homebrewer and enthusiastic cook from South Texas with a background in literature and creative writing. He finds inspiration for his cocktails in the most ethereal places, creating concoctions like “Permanent Moonlight� and “Letters, 2008-2011,� which currently grace the menu. “Alexander has been working with us at The Esquire for more than 4 years, and since the beginning his passion for sharing delicious things to eat and drink has been clearly evident,� Houston Eaves, Beverage Director at The Esquire Tavern, said. “Alexander’s dedication to his professional growth has been exciting to witness and foster. We are thrilled with his shared commitment to excellence which has garnered us thousands of happy guests and many accolades over the years, notably nominations for Outstanding Bar Program by the James Beard Foundation. We look forward to seeing where he takes us next!�

Chef Baez comes to Downstairs at The Esquire with PWFS ZFBST FYQFSJFODF BOE IBT XPSLFE JO TPNF PG UIF NPSF QSPHSFTTJWF

Charcuterie at The Esquire (Photo courtesy)

kitchens around town alongside chefs who labored tirelessly to prove San Antonio is serious about high quality, compelling food service. Not only did he earn a bachelor’s degree in Culinary Gastronomy from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), he also won back-to-back first place awards in the 2012 and 2013 South Texas Heritage Pork Competition. “Most recently, Emilio was working as Head Butcher in a small independent meat market, but he missed the demanding environment of a full-service restaurant kitchen and really looked forward to getting back to that,� Garry Baker, Director of Operations for The Esquire Tavern, explained. “If he’s not in the kitchen, he’s pouring over his library of cookbooks or at the farmers market, early in the morning, hand-selecting foods that he genuinely looks forward to sharing with our team and our guests. We’re very excited to be working with this guy. There’s great chemistry here.�

'PS NPSF JOGPSNBUJPO BOE VQEBUFT BCPVU 5IF &TRVJSF 5BWFSO WJTJU XXX FTRVJSFUBWFSO TB DPN

/05& 5IF &TRVJSF 5BWFSO JT DVSSFOUMZ DPOTJEFSJOH RVBMJGJFE DBOEJEBUFT GPS UIF &YFDVUJWF $IFG QPTJUJPO *G ZPV UIJOL ZPV NBZ CF B HPPE GJU FNBJM B DPWFS MFUUFS BOE SĂ?TVNĂ? UP JOGP!FTRVJSFUBWFSO TB DPN

)*4503*$ #"3 The Esquire Tavern is more than just a bar that serves libations and elevated American fare it’s a slice of San Antonio’s history. This downtown Uavern has been serving drinks to locals, WJTJUPST BOE celebrities for NPSF UIBO 80 years. 5IFZ first opened UIFJS doors in 1933 on Repeal Day, a day which celebrated the end of America’s 13-year-long alcohol prohibition. Lauded as the oldest bar on the San Antonio River Walk BOE still holding the title of the longest bar in Texas The Esquire Tavern is a venue of untouchable historic significance XJUI many remarkable tales to tell. One needs only to step foot into this cherished bar to experience the dedication to preserving its history and excellence, which is evident in every brick, bulb, plate and, of course, cocktail. Although completely renovated in 2011, The Esquire Tavern still retains its vintage classic furnishings dusky lighting BOE rustiD atmosphere. Located along the River Walk, guests can sit outside and take in festive surroundings and sultry San Antonio evenings.

ediblesanantonio.com

15

PQ FEJCMF

16

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

HEMP CULTIVATION/MANUFACTURING

LICENSING UPDATE

BY HEATHER FAZIO

S

ince June, the Texas Department of Agriculture (TDA) has moved forward with drafting rules for the regulation and licensing of hemp cultivation and manufacturing.

Earlier this year, TDA’s plan for regulation was approved by the USDA, but the department must formally adopt their hemp rules in order for hemp production businesses to become licensed to operate. This is expected to happen in the next few weeks. “Early-mid March,� according to TDA Commissioner Sid Miller.

5&9"4 3&(6-"5034 4&&, 50 #"/ 4"-&4 0' $#% 7"1& 130%6$54 '-08&3 Last year, both the state and federal governments legalized lowTHC (0.3%) cannabis, defining it as hemp. Consumable hemp is now completely legal to possess and use, including oils, edibles, hemp flower and vape cartridges. These products are widely available throughout the state and have been a blessing to many Texans who can benefit from cannabis, but do not qualify to participate in the Compassionate Use Program.

In December, we reported that draft rules proposed by the Texas Department of State Health Services (DSHS) would ban in-state retail sales of consumable hemp products intended for smoking (hemp flower). i3VMF f ."/6'"$563& 0' 4.0,"#-& )&.1 130%6$5 B 5IF QSPDFTTJOH NBOVGBDUVSJOH BOE SFUBJM TBMF PG DPOTVNBCMF IFNQ QSPEVDUT GPS TNPLJOH JT QSPIJCJUFE w State law, as instituted with the passage of HB 1325, does prohibit the in-state manufacture of hemp products intended for smoking. However, the law does not prohibit in-state retail sales of products manufactured outside Texas, as long as those products are cultivated and manufactured in compliance with federal law.

But the proposed rules would also ban hemp/CBD vape products!

How was this overlooked?

Because “smoking� is defined in the new law as “burning or igniting a substance and inhaling the smoke or heating a substance and inhaling the resulting vapor or aerosol.�

If adopted, these regulations would ban Texas businesses from selling hemp flower and hemp/CBD vape cartridges, cutting them out of this thriving market and pushing consumers to outof-state retailers.

I do not believe they have the authority to do this.

DSHS is still accepting input on these proposed rules and there is time for revision before they are made final. If you are concerned about this issue, visit actionnetwork.org to send DSHS a quick email. Or email them directly at DSHSHempProgram@ dshs.texas.gov to share your thoughtful feedback.

None of the rules up for consideration would ban consumers from possessing these products or from purchasing them online from other states.

4QFDJBM UIBOLT UP )FBUIFS 'B[JP UIF %JSFDUPS PG 5FYBOT GPS 3FTQPOTJCMF .BSJKVBOB 1PMJDZ GPS UIJT VQEBUF "O BEWPDBUF PG JOEJWJEVBM MJCFSUZ BOE QFSTPOBM SFTQPOTJCJMJUZ TIF IBT XPSLFE UPXBSE MJNJUFE HPWFSONFOU TJODF To learn more, visit TexasMarijuanaPolicy.org. ediblesanantonio.com

17

news you can use

SPRING BLOOM ON MARCH 14 Spring is coming ‌ and San Antonio Water System’s (SAWS) family-friendly Spring Bloom event is your ticket to a beautiful, not-so-thirsty garden this year. Join us from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Saturday, March 14 in front of SAWS headquarters at 2800 U.S. Hwy 281 N at Mulberry Ave and discover your gardening chops.

Not only is the event free (yes, free parking too), the first 1000 adult guests will take home a free plant to get started. It’s worth it just to stop by and learn about this year’s Water Savers coupon program.

The best part is the opportunity to garner expert advice from local gardening experts willing to share their tried-and-true secrets for successful landscaping. Besides the individualized attention, don’t miss the panel discussion where top local landscape pros reveal their own favorite garden styles.

Also, SAWS conservation sta will share “SAWS Selectsâ€? – their go-to, can’t-miss plant picks for San Antonio’s challenging climate. And because you will be so inspired to go home and get into the dirt, SAWS will also have exactly the plants you’ll be looking for on sale. To learn more, visit saws.org.

NEW DATE, NEW DIGS

CULINARY SCHOLARSHIPS FOR WOMEN

FOR FESTIVAL OF FLOWERS

Also co-hosted by SAWS, Festival of Flowers (FOF) returns with another great horticultural meet-up just when South Texas gardeners need it most. This year the event takes place from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Saturday, May 14, at the San Antonio Garden Center, 1330 N. New Braunfels at Funston at the Entrance to the San Antonio Botanical Garden.

Admission is $7 for adults and kids 10 and under get in free. You’ll find the healthiest plants at FOF as well as a wide array of exhibitors with great ideas and innovative tools to help your garden succeed. Besides hosting the largest plant exchange in Texas from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., don’t miss the seminars, and our favorite, the Organic Round Table with Shades of Green’s Bob Webster. Get all the information at SAFestivalofFlowers.com.

18

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

The San Antonio chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier International (LDEI) is accepting scholarship applications for students enrolling this fall. The financial program is designed to assist local women pursuing an education in food/culinary arts, wine, hospitality or agriculture.

Eligible applicants must demonstrate financial need, attend an accredited institution and maintain a cumulative 3.0 GPA. Scholarships are limited to women who are current residents of San Antonio, Bexar County and its contiguous counties. All materials must be submitted no later than April 15 and addressed to Les Dames d’Escoffier Scholarship, c/o Diana Barrios Treviùo, P.O. Box 15302, San Antonio, TX 78212. Visit CJU MZ -%&* for application forms and information. Forms are also available at most financial aid offices at area schools. Successful scholarship applicants will be notified by May 31, 2020. To learn more, please contact Diana Barrios Treviùo at 210-771-7011 or via email at dianabarriostrevino@gmail.com.

GOOD

Please call 210-365-8046 or email fred@ediblesanantonio.com

FOOD FOR

edible SAN ANTONIO

MARKETPLACE

REVOLUTIONARY

ALL

YOUR

CATERING

OPENING SOON

NEEDS

at

Hemisfair

CALL

FOR A QUICK

QUOTE

ilikelick.com

813-504-2344 River Whey Creamery

proudly printing for san antonio's food industries B_TRXP[ch 5^^Sb } 3T[X <TPc 1TTa FX]T B_XaXcb } ?a^SdRT 2^UUTT CTP B_XRTb } 5Pbc 5^^S 1PZTah 2^]UTRcX^]Tah } ATcPX[ Join us for Cheesemaking Classes! book now at: www.riverwheycreamery.com

$ ! " ! ! # } PdbcX][PQT[ R^\

Knives sharp. table set. have you slept?

heard. iheardyou.org

Wellness, mental health, and recovery support for the men and women working in the food & beverage service industry. Visit iheardyou.org for location, times, and services.

Heard is a program of Saint City Culinary Foundation ediblesanantonio.com

19

feeding hope

Rendering of new Culinary Center (Photo courtesy SAFB)

NEW WEAPON IN THE FIGHT AGAINST HUNGER

BY MICHAEL GUERRA

T

he San Antonio Food Bank is planning a new 60,000-square-foot facility on the Food Bankâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s existing Westside campus, expanding the nonprofitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reach with the addition of a new production kitchen, a culinary training center, enhanced nutrition education space and a seasonal venison processing plant. The project is set to break ground in the spring of 2020. The new facility will support expanded pro-gramming in the fight against hunger in six key areas.

CULINARY TRAINING

The Food Bank has run a hugely successful culinary training program for more than a decade that targets the homeless, disabled and long-term unemployed. This new facility would offer a TUBUF PG UIF BSU UFBDIJOH LJUDIFO The greater San Antonio region has hundreds of unfilled positions today in the hospitality industry and this expansion would allow the Food Bank to quadruple the number of participants per class. Classes run in 18-week blocks and 100 percent of graduates looking for work post-graduation receive offers. Class Number 85 is currently underway.

PRODUCTION KITCHEN

The new facility wJMM be home to a TUBUF PG UIF BSU QSPEVDUJPO LJUDIFO capable of producing more than 50,000 meals a day, more than TJY times produced in

20

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

UIF DVSSFOU LJUDIFO 0OF PG UIF 'PPE #BOL T QSJNBSZ HPBMT JT UP NFFU UIF near-constant demand for meals for children, but the kitchen in the existing facility limits the Food Bankâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ability to meet that demand. A larger production area is necessary to meet the goal of being the first large city in the United States to end childhood hunger. Hunger often interferes with a childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ability to sleep, impedes focus and affects the physical wellbeing of a child, often leading to illnesses due to lack of food and proper nutrition. Ending childhood hunger will change the trajectory for future generations. The new kitchFn is being built to operate 2 UP 3 shifts per day, 7 days a week.

THE â&#x20AC;&#x153;GROCERANTâ&#x20AC;? PHENOMENA 3FBEZ .FBMT o 2VJDL BOE /VUSJUJPVT 4PMVUJPOT

This development plan also includes a new â&#x20AC;&#x153;Grab-andGoâ&#x20AC;? salad prep plant where the Food Bank would wash, store, prep/chop, and assemble healthy salads and Ready Meals (with as much of the produce as possible coming from its own farms). Time deprived low-income families need a solution that is both quick and nutritious. The Food Bank is prepared to meet this need by offering fresh prepared meals.

The organization is the leader in Southwest Texas in promoting healthy eating, and the addition of a salad prep plant would afford a wider variety of healthy food options to those facing hunger.

%*4"45&3 3&-*&' "/% -"/% */5&(3*5:

Texas is home to about 3.6 million white-tailed deer and South Texas is home to the largest population in the United States. The expanding population has detrimental effects on the abundance and diversity of vegetation and wildlife. In an effort to re-balance the ecosystem and avoid further loss of biodiversity, calls for culling large deer are issued. The resulting venison can feed thousands of individuals through the Food Bank’s existing “Hunters for the Hungry” program. The Food Bank will address this opportunity by building out its own (seasonal) venison processing plant as part of the larger culinary facility. The venison will provide high quality protein for its meals and clients, while promoting environmental stewardship.

SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT

The San Antonio Food Bank currently practices environmental responsibility and energy savings throughout its campus. Efforts include water catchment, solar and wind power and hydroponic gardens.

Sustainable development aligns with the Food Bank’s philosophy of offering support for today, tomorrow and a lifetime by minimizing the depletion of natural resources for future generations. The Food Bank will embrace its commitment to the environment by extending these features to the new Culinary Center. Solar panels and

XBUFS DBUDINFOU CBTJOT XJMM CF BEEFE UP DPNQFOsate for the buildings increased resource demand. Additionally, a hydroponic garden greenhouse will sit adjacent to the Center showcasing alternative growing techniques that use less water than traditional methods and reduces waste and pollution from soil runoff.

CULINARY HERITAGE EXHIBIT

An exhibit housed within the new facility will act as a nod to our city’s rich culinary heritage. A wide-ranging collection of histories, memorabilia, menus and photographs will showcase our celebrated food city. The installation will invite the public to discover the many businesses and stories that have shaped the flavors of San Antonio. It will thread the past, present and future together, inspiring viewers to value the significant role food plays in our cultural heritage. The 2017 designation as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy echoes the depth of our culinary narrative and the San Antonio Food Bank is humbled to have it as an integral part of our space.

Editor’s note: Mr. Michael Guerra of the San Antonio Food Bank writes the Feeding Hope column in every issue of Edible San Antonio. His goal is to spotlight our food economy from different perspectives, particularly that of those in need.

DON STRANGE OF TEXAS Old World Terroir...

New World Cuisine

WE HELP YOU

Celebrate

Reserve your tasting experience today

/>ÃÌ }Ê, Ê ÕÀÃ\Ê/ ÕÊ Ê->ÌÊ££ È« ]Ê-Õ Ê£Ó x« ]Ê Ê£Ó x« Ê «« Ì i ÌÃÊ,iV i `i` x£Ó Óä ÓÈÇxÊ ÀÊ>«« Ì i ÌÃJ Õ > Vi >ÀðV

KuhlmanCellars.com | Stonewall, Texas

CATERING | VENUES | EVENT MANAGEMENT info@donstrange.com • 210.434.2331 donstrange.com ediblesanantonio.com

21

GUIDE TO SAN ANTONIO FARMERS MARKETS MOBILE MARKET

Alamo Ranch Farmers Market 210-446-0099 www.alamoranchfarm.market Call or visit website for information

MONDAY

SA Food Bank Farmers Market Palo Alto College 1400 W. Villaret Blvd 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

4th Mon of month Closed May, Aug, Dec

TUESDAY

SA Food Bank Farmers Market Main Plaza 115 Main Avenue 10 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Opening day – Mar 17 San Antonio Farmers Market Olmos Basin 100 Jackson Keller Road 8 a.m – 1 p.m.

WEDNESDAY

1905 Farmers Market Kendall County Fairgrounds 1307 River Road Boerne, TX 3 p.m. – 7 p.m.

Dripping Springs Farmers Market Veterans Memorial Park Hwy 290 & RR 12 Dripping Springs, TX 3 p.m. – 6 p.m

22

edible San Antonio

San Antonio Farmers Market Leon Valley Community Center 6427 Evers Road 8 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Farmers Market at the Cibolo Herff Farm 33 Herff Road Boerne, TX 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Opening day – March 7

SA Food Bank Farmers Market Mission Marquee Plaza 3100 Roosevelt Avenue 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

3rd Sat of month Opening day – Mar 21

Four Seasons Market Huebner Oaks Shopping Center 11745 IH-10 9 a.m. – 2 p.m.

San Antonio Farmers Market Olmos Basin 100 Jackson Keller Road 8 a.m. – 1 p.m

Cibolo Grange Farmers and Artisans Market 413 N. Main Street Cibolo, TX 3 p.m. – 7 p.m.

Goliad Market Days 231 S. Market Street Goliad, TX 9 a.m. – 4 p.m 2nd Sat of month

Alamo Heights Farmers Market Alamo Quarry Market 255 E. Basse Road 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Pearl Night Market Pearl Brewery 312 Pearl Parkway 4 p.m. – 8 p.m.

1st Thurs of month

Legacy Farmers Market 16101 Henderson Pass (Behind the YMCA) 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.

Legacy Farmers Market 16101 Henderson Pass (Behind the YMCA) 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.

MarketPlace at Old Town Helotes 14391 Riggs Road Helotes, TX 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.

1st Sat of month

Live Oak Farmers Market 8151 Pat Booker Road (In front of Starbucks) 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Semmes Library Farmers Market Semmes Library (Northeast) 15060 Judson Road 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

THURSDAY

FRIDAY

Kerrville Farmers Market Downtown 529 Water Street Kerrville, TX 3 p.m. – 6 p.m.

San Antonio Farmers Market St. Matthews Recreation Center 11121 Wurzbach Road 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

SATURDAY

Deerfield Farmers Market 16607 Huebner Road 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

THE WINTER ISSUE

New Braunfels Farmers Market 186 S. Castell Avenue New Braunfels, TX 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Pearl Farmers Market Pearl Brewery 312 Pearl Parkway 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

SUNDAY

New Braunfels Farmers Market 186 S. Castell Avenue New Braunfels, TX 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Pearl Farmers Market Pearl Brewery 312 Pearl Parkway 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

food for the soul

LOCAL INSPIRATION WORKING WITH THE CHEF COOPERATIVES

BY DAVE TERRAZAS Editor’s Note: Chef Dave Terrazas, a regular contributor to Edible San Antonio, just embarked on a new adventure with Mercy Chefs.

In this new column, Food for the Soul, he’ll share the stories about the great works accomplished by Mercy Chefs, how our own local chefs contribute to that effort and what they hope to accomplish.

I’m sitting down to write this on a rainy evening after wrapping up the cooking day in Florida. It’s the kind of day that leaves me feeling mentally tired and physically spent, but happy. It’s the end of a short cycle of increased operational volume, trips between Texas and Florida and special events, with hundreds of meals moving through my kitchen – and a lot of happy diners.

Periodically, I get to this “mental space,” and when I do, I start to reflect. Memories roll through my mind – the work, my team and the people we fed, all the auspicious individuals we serve with. Those thoughts lead to remembering many of the amazing people who partner with Mercy Chefs and help us achieve our mission to feed those in need.

When I’m not busy with the daily grind in Florida, my personal joy is to participate in special events in San Antonio, which I still call home. I’m a relatively new member of the Chef Cooperatives, a nonprofit group of local San Antonio chefs and local food champions that came together to support farmers and local producers more than seven years ago. Recently, the group debuted the “Co-op Tent” at Pearl Farmers Market, where chefs volunteer to present weekly cooking demos. They feature whatever’s in season, gathered from the local farmers and vendors at the market, and share wonderful ways people can incorporate the fresh, local ingredients into day-to-day cooking.

I was able to get home in February to headline one of the demos at the “Co-op Tent” – a fantastic opportunity to reconnect with people I share this great city with and cook in a place I love, showcasing locally grown produce and local ingredients. Several farmers and chefs at the market also donate their time or products to Mercy Chefs.

My culinary friends were kind enough to provide some product to take back to Florida and use in recipes to feed post-Hurricane disaster recovery workers. The familiarity of the products help me stay mentally and spiritually connected to my home, and the connection invigorates me and puts a smile on my face – even when slumped in a chair trying to collect my thoughts after an intense work cycle.

But beyond the warmth of personal affinities, pleasant and sensory-based memories, there is something of great value that comes to mind when I think about my friends and fellow members of the Chef Cooperatives … leadership. True leadership is service.

I was immediately inspired when I discovered Mercy’s mission back in 2013 and responded to a call for volunteer chefs needed to feed the displaced and responders alike in Moore, Oklahoma

Young aspiring chef Neko Massi assists Chef Dave Terrazas at the Chef Co-op Tent at Pearl Farmers Market recently. Ms. Massi was one of four young San Antonio contestants selected for MASTERCHEF JUNIOR series (2019) on the Fox Network. (Photo courtesy)

after a devastating EF-5 tornado ripped through the city. I marveled at the idea of a chef creating a nonprofit staffed by chefs, using their combined talents to serve the public directly. Mercy Chefs is a proven leader through its service in both the emergency/disaster and culinary industries.

But Mercy Chefs could not do all it does without a strong volunteer corps or list of strong partnerships that generously puts resources in the hands of the chefs. Thinking back on all the support I got from the Co-op to run my demo as the “Mercy Chef” in town, and cooking with donated San Antonio products back in Florida made me realize that every dollar spent supporting the local businesses at Pearl Farmers Market is an expression of support not just for local vendors, but for our own local chef-leaders, who serve selflessly.

This service comes from their hearts and souls. And what the Chef Co-op is doing is trying to connect with your hearts and souls.

If you’ve ever spent time chatting with one of the vendors at the market, you know they practice their art in earnest. And they work with the Chef Cooperatives recognizing that there is strength in numbers, and together we can do more for San Antonio.

That notion is restorative – it certainly helps get me out of that chair I slumped into and find the strength to do it all over again tomorrow.

It’s funny, wanting to be like my fellow men and women of the Chef Cooperatives reinforces that desire to continue to serve with my culinary skills. The virtue inherent in the integrity and spirit of the members of the Co-op is nothing short of food for the soul. ediblesanantonio.com

23

ranch life

24

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

VET VISITS AND BANANA PUDDING STORY AND PHOTOS BY MARCY EPPERSON Marcy Epperson lives with her family near Rocksprings where they raise grass finished beef, sheep, goats and horses. See what’s going on at the ranch on Instagram @heritagebeef or @marcy_epperson and follow on Facebook @Heritage Beef to learn more about ranch life.

I

realize this title may sound totally incongruous. It is, except that on the rare occasion a veterinarian actually comes to the ranch (about once a year), I always – and I mean always – make banana pudding. It’s a tradition! Our vet and her crew drive a long way to get here, and this is something I can do to express our appreciation for their long day of hard work.

While they tend to the animals, I make lunch. I sort of miss being at the barn during all the action, seeing what all goes on with the animals, but dinner must be cooked and that’s just how it is. When they all come in hot and sweaty, ready for gallons of iced tea, it’s worth it to me – I get plenty of barn and ranch time.

The vet spays our heifers, places special ear tags and brands in their ears so we know who’s spayed, floats the horses’ teeth (dental work for horses), draws the Coggins blood tests (a state law for horses traveling in Texas) and vaccinates all our dogs and cats against rabies. Sometimes a neighbor will even bring a pet that needs veterinary services.

The banana pudding tradition started years ago with one of those days of spaying heifers. I wanted not only to make a meal to feed the hungry crew, but serve a dessert I thought everyone would like. Plus, I had my own hankerin’ for banana pudding that day.

When I say banana pudding, I mean real banana pudding – said tongue in cheek because I make very old school, old fashioned banana pudding with a cooked custard and calf slobber. Calf slobber is how many an old rancher refers to meringue because it does, in fact, look exactly like calf slobber! I’ve discovered that many people don’t know this is the way it was originally made, nor have they ever tasted banana pudding prepared this way. The revelation causes eyes to pop wide-open at the first taste, especially when served warm on a cold day. It’s the ultimate comfort food.

We like extra custard, so my recipe is basically a one-and-a-half version. When cooking, make sure to keep your whisk nearby, because it tends to clump at the bottom and you’ll want to be able to whisk it swiftly back to smoothness. My old family recipe calls for the yolks to be whisked in at the end for a silky, much smoother custard, however with all the textures going on in this dessert, it’s fine to put it all together at the beginning as the original recipe on the box of Nilla wafers directs.

RECIPE ~ BANANA PUDDING */(3&%*&/54 1 box Nilla wafers 2-3 ripe bananas (or more depending upon your taste)

'PS UIF $VTUBSE 3 cups milk (whole is best) 1 cup granulated sugar 1/2 cup AP flour 5 eggs, separated (yolks whisked for custard, whites for meringue) 2 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon vanilla

'PS UIF .FSJOHVF 5 egg whites 3/4 cup extra-fine granulated sugar 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/8 teaspoon salt

%*3&$5*0/4 Create a bottom and side layer of wafers in a 9x12 oblong Pyrex or another suitable dish.

Reserve remaining wafers for layering with pudding.

.",& 5)& $645"3%

Mix sugar and flour well in a heavy saucepan, then add all the other custard ingredients and whisk. Heat on medium, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens and begins to boil.

Boil for one minute, remove from heat.

Carefully pour a layer of custard over the wafers, slice bananas into to the custard. Repeat layers of bananas, pudding and wafers until all are used.

.",& 5)& .&3*/(6&

Beat egg whites, baking powder and salt on medium speed until soft peaks form – switch to high speed, adding sugar one table-spoon at a time, beating until stiff, glossy peaks form.

Dollop onto pudding, spread to cover entirely, then use back of a spoon or spatula to form peaks. Bake at 375°F approximately 10 minutes or until meringue tips are golden.

Enjoy warm or refrigerate and enjoy cold. 3FNFNCFS UP Sefrigerate BOZ leftovers. ediblesanantonio.com

25

Elena’s seasonal flavors

WISHING FOR SPRING

A TASTE OF SORRENTO

BY ELENA D’AGOSTINO

Chef Elena D’Agostino is well known for her delicious handmade pasta, which stands to reason as Italian cuisine is her birthright – she was born and raised in northern Italy in Torino. Now at the helm of her own company, she is delighted to be doing what she loves most, teaching and sharing her love of cooking and making pasta. She learned there was great interest in the art of pasta-making, and after teaching a class with the Saint City Supper Club a couple of years ago, she designed her own program. Today, she offers wonderful cooking classes as well as personal chef services for private dinners and events – and she couldn’t be happier. If you’re interested in discovering the world of pasta or want to learn more about authentic Italian cuisine, this local chef is our resident expert. Visit www.elenadagostino.com to learn more about her work and services.

For this issue, Chef D’Agostino prepared an Italian classic from Sorrento using lemons and basil.

Perfect to bring in a taste of spring as the winter season passes, this recipe will also leave traces of the delightful scent of lemons in your kitchen. &OKPZ

A

re you craving a different pasta dish that is refreshing, tasty and light? Then this recipe is made just for you! Best of all, you can to make this dish in just 20 minutes. My hands still smell like lemons while I write this – just imagine the delicious aroma in your kitchen while you make it!

Did you know that you can find up to 200 distinct varieties of lemon in the U.S.? But if you ever taste one, the Sorrento lemon would quickly become your favorite.

These lemons grow along the Sorrento coastline, which is not just a marvelous tourist destination in Southern Italy, but a renowned area of citrus trees plantations. The typical fruit grown there is the “Limone di Sorrento,” traditionally

26

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

used to produce alcoholic beverages such as limoncello, as well as some delicious Italian desserts like the soft, spongy, limoncello-soaked Babà cakes.

In Sorrento, it’s common to eat lemons picked off a tree like an apple, sprinkled with sugar. Many also slice them paper thin and stuff them inside a whole fish or add them on top of fish fillets before baking. The lemons are always hand-picked (they can’t be machine-harvested or picked wet).

Most lemons are sorted according to color, washed, coated with a fungicide to prevent stem-end rot and a thin layer of wax for preservation and beauty, then stored until ready for shipping. Remember to always wash the lemons carefully before using them. Let’s cook this!

LINGUINE, LEMON AND FRESH BASIL 5)& 3&$*1&

%*3&$5*0/4

*/(3&%*&/54 TFSWFT QFPQMF

380 grams linguine (or bow ties or fettuccine) 2 fresh lemons, washed 1 tablespoon vodka or limoncello 4 or 5 basil leaves (or ... fresh mint!)

1 cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons HSBUFE Parmigiano-Reggiano 1 shallot, minced Olive oil and salt 0QUJPOBM UFBTQPPO QJOL QFQQFSDPSO PS CMBDL QFQQFS PS JG ZPV MJLF B IJOU PG TQJDZ GSFTI SFE QFQQFST

#VPO BQQFUJUP

Boil a pot full of salted water and cook the pasta. I prefer to strain the pasta 1 minute before the suggested cooking time on the box, for a better BM EFOUF result. (5JQ "EE TPNF MFNPO MFBWFT PS MFNPO [FTU UP XBUFS GPS FYUSB GMBWPS

In the meantime, soften minced shallot in a pan with olive oil, add a spoon of vodka (or limoncello, if you have it) and let it evaporate. Then add heavy cream (for extra flavor, the night before, add lemon zest to heavy cream and boil it for a couple of minutes and allow to infuse overnight in the refrigerator), lemon zest and juice of the lemons. Let the cream reduce and adjust with salt to the taste.

Strain pasta and transfer to pan with the pasta sauce, add Parmigiano and stir it for about 30 seconds. Plate the pasta and add fresh basil, pink peppercorn and, if you like, extra lemon zest and fresh Parmigiano grated on top.

ediblesanantonio.com

27

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

mimiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heirloom recipes

KISS ME, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;M BASQUE! STORY, RECIPE AND PHOTO BY MIMI FAUBERT This quintessential foodie is a Food Hero at our local Central Market.

Ms. Faubert is not professionally trained â&#x20AC;&#x201C; instead, she is one of those rare talents with a superior palate and natural skills. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll typically find her in a kitchen, whipping up something extraordinary at home for her family or at work. And her tips, stories and recipes are always spot-on.Â

A

round 1200 BC, the Celts spawned in the area where the Danube River begins in modern-day Germany.

This was about 150 years after Ancient Egyptâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s revolutionary move from polytheism to monotheism under the rule of Pharaoh Akhenaten and his queen,

Nefertiti.

As a group of migrating tribes, the Celts spread their culture and language to indigenous peoples from Turkey to Ireland. Their legacy in Ireland, established in 500 BC, drives our collective reasoning that to be Irish is to be Celtic. Now, 2500 years later, the ancient Celts are still present in our modern sense of Irish-ness.

Take a few deep cleansing breaths intermingled with thoughts of Celtic Thunder, Celtic Woman, Celtic Nights, Irish Celtic, Celtic Dreamtime, Celtic Steps, Celtic Legends and A Celtic Christmas. Is your stomach in (Celtic) knots with the excitement and wonder of tribal lore yet?

But as it turns out, to be Irish is also to be Basque â&#x20AC;&#x201C; not through a Celtic connection, but thanks to genetics. According to a published DNA study performed by genetic researchers tracking Y-chromosome genes, Ireland was originally settled about 6200 years ago by

THE RECIPE

CLASSIC MUSSELS */(3&%*&/54 4FSWFT BT BQQFUJ[FS PS BT B NBJO EJTI

1-1½ pounds blue mussels, 1SJODF &EXBSE *TMBOE .VTTFMT BSF DPNNPO

½ tablespoon olive oil 1 medium clove garlic, chopped 1 pinch Piment dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Espelette 1-2 tablespoons Txakolina wine, white or rosĂŠ 1-2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped 1-2 tablespoons Irish butter 0QUJPOBM 'MBLFE TFB TBMU UP UBTUF

prehistoric migrants from the European continent, before the English, the Scots, the Norman invaders, the Viking invaders or even the Celts got there. The ancestral, Paleolithic European DNA signature goes back some 30,000 years and is prevalent mostly in Basque and Ireland. The study revealed the DNA signature as being 1.8 percent Turkish, 33 percent Northern Italian, 50 percent French, 75 percent Irish and â&#x20AC;&#x201C; wait for it â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 89 percent Basque â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and in the province of Connacht, 98 percent Basque!

If you arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t familiar with it, Basque Country is a cultural region that crosses borders and straddles the Pyrenees and opens towards the Bay of Biscay in Northwestern Spain/Southwestern France.

Their Euskara language and its seven dialects are distinct and entirely unrelated to any other living language.

Basque Country is also known for its superb yet humble food.

One of my favorites seasonings is the Piment dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Espelette or Ezpeletako biperra, the treasured chile of Basque. Like all chiles, it originated in the Americas. Espeletteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history can be traced back to migration during the 1500s. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s used as black pepper in Basque cuisine, a signature spice used to cure their famous Bayonne Ham, for gently spicing stews and garnishing the small snacks called pintxos.

With all this in mind, this St. Patrickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day, how can I resist pairing such a beautifully earthy and mild spice with mussels? As one of Irelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most abundant shellfish and a mainstay of Basque cuisine, I think Molly Malone would approve of this simple, nutritious and flavorful pot of mussels. So, as they say in Gaelic, CBJO UBJUBNI BT EP CIĂ?JMF ... enjoy your meal! Or in Basque, FHJO!

%*3&$5*0/4

6TF a lidded pot that is wide enough to accommodate the mussels you will cook. Many mussels available from stores are already debearded and cleaned so make sure to rinse them well and discard any broken ones â&#x20AC;&#x201C; set them aside.

Place garlic, olive oil and Espelette in the pot and stir over medium-high heat.

As the garlic becomes fragrant and sizzles (do NOT let it brown), add mussels and wine. Gently stir and cover.

After a couple of minutes, they should begin to simmer and open. Stir and cover a couple of times to help them cook more evenly. The mussels are ready when the shells open and the meats look plump. Remove from heat and stir in butter and salt.

Use a slotted spoon to transfer mussels to warm dishes or bowls, garnish with parsley then spoon the spiced, buttery juices from the pot over them. /05& %JTDBSE BOZ NVTTFMT UIBU EJE OPU PQFO EVSJOH UIF DPPLJOH QSPDFTT Serve with warm crusty bread and the rest of the Txakolina or cold Sagardo Naturala cider &HJO

ediblesanantonio.com

Enjoy delicious salads at Barbaro. (Photo by Matt Martinez, courtesy Barbaro)

THE LOCAL DINING GUIDE Welcome to our newest section, the Edible San Antonio Local Dining Guide.

Special thanks to our growing list of sponsors, all local and independently owned establishments that support Edible SA’s mission. Restaurants are selected for their commitment to using local and seasonal ingredients as much as possible and for their partnerships with local farmers and food artisans. Enjoy!

3

CLASSIC FRENCH BRASSERIE IN THE HEART OF ALAMO HEIGHTS LED BY CHEF DAMIEN WATEL & CHEF LISA ASTORGA WATEL

AT BIG TEX

NEIGHBORHOOD PIZZA AND CRAFT COCKTAIL BAR LUNCH | DINNER | WEEKEND BRUNCH LATE NIGHT DINING HAPPY HOUR 3 PM TO 6 PM EVERY DAY PIZZA MONDAY | $10 PIZZAS OPEN SEVEN DAYS

HAPPY HOUR | MON–FRI 4-6 PM DINNER DAILY AT 4 PM | SUNDAY BRUNCH 11-2 PM

MONDAY – THURSDAY 11 AM – 10 PM FRIDAY & SATURDAY 11 AM – 11 PM SUNDAY 11 AM – 8 PM

2720 McCullough Ave, SATX 78212 210.320.2261 | barbarosanantonio.com

6106 Broadway, SATX 78209 210.245.8156 | bistr09.com

403 Blue Star, SATX 78204 210.635.0016 | burgerteca.com

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

MEXICO INSPIRED BURGERS

FAMILY-OWNED NEIGHBORHOOD RESTAURANT SERVING UP SEASONAL SOUTHERN AND AMERICAN EATS IN A CASUAL SETTING LUNCH | TUEâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;FRI 11:30-2 PM DINNER | TUEâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;THU 5-9 PM | FRIâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;SAT 5-10 PM 2195 NW Military Hwy, SATX 78213 210.503.5121 | clementine-sa.com

BEYOND JUST CAJUN OR CREOLE THEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MORE TO NEW ORLEANS CUISINE WELCOME TO THE COOKHOUSE OPEN TUEâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;SAT 5-10 PM HAPPY HOUR TUEâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;FRI 5-7 PM RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED LAISSEZ LES BON TEMPS ROULER! 720 E Mistletoe Ave, SATX 78212 210.320.8211 | cookhouserestaurant.com

PATIO BAR & CLUB HAPPY HOUR DAILY 4-9 PM $5 CLASSICS | $4 FROZENS | $3 WELLS | $2 BEERS

Old World Methods, Extraordinary Results Locally Sourced, Sustainably Prepared

21+ | NEVER A COVER

Dinner | Tueâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Thur 5:30-9 PM | Friâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat 5:30-10 PM Reservations Recommended

2410 N St Maryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s St, SATX 78212 210.885.3925 | rumblesatx.com

152 E Pecan St #100, SATX 78205 210.222.1849 | restaurantgwendolyn.com

AUTHENTIC EUROPEAN RESTAURANT DUCK | PORK | GOULASH | SCHNITZELS | APPLE STRUDEL CZECH WINES | PILSNER URQUELL BEER KOLACHE EGGS BENEDICT BREAKFAST AND LUNCH DAILY DINNER WEDNESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY VISIT LOVEKOLACHES.COM 518 River Road, Boerne TX 78006 830.331.1368 | littlegretel.com

SAN ANTONIOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PREMIER ROOFTOP BAR ROOFTOP OASIS | SOARING CITY VIEWS COFFEE BAR | CRAFT COCKTAILS BREAKFAST | HORS Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OEUVRES OPEN SEVEN DAYS 102 9th St Suite 400, SATX 78215 210.340.9880 | paramourbar.com

GLUTEN FREE | VEGAN KETO-FRIENDLY | AYURVEDIC

OPEN DAILY 11 AM TO 3 PM BRUNCH SATURDAY & SUNDAY ACROSS FROM THE TOBIN CENTER

AN ACTIVE CLASSROOM AT THE CIA DISCOVER OUR MENU INSPIRED BY GLOBAL CUISINES

DOG-FRIENDLY PATIO | OPEN SEATING

TUESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 5:30 PM â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 8 PM

WE ARE EXCITED TO SHARE OUR CULTURE AND HOMETOWN EATS WITH OUR BELOVED SA COMMUNITY COOK-TO-ORDER MENU FOR SHARING SPICY AND NON-SPICY OFFERINGS OPEN SEVEN DAYS | LUNCH AND DINNER

106 Auditorium Circle, SATX 78205 210.802.1860 | pharmtable.com

200 E Grayson St #117, SATX 78215 210.554.6484 | savorcia.com

3505 Wurzbach Rd #102, SATX 78238 210.509.9999 | facebook.com/sichuaneats

Craft cocktails at Rumble on the N. St. Maryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s strip.

(Photo by Matt Martinez, courtesy Rumble)

ediiblesanant ed lesananto onio.c o.co om

3

personal traditions

Traditional Paella (Photo by Frederic Covo)

MUSINGS .

TRADITIONAL PAELLA

BY CARMEN ROMO DE VIVAR, PHD

A

edible San Antonio

few days ago, while researching paella, I ended up at the tasteatlas.com website where I discovered paella is the fourth most famous dish in the world (behind sushi, ramen and tacos). I have to admit it surprised me, but then I started tumbling through many of my own paella memories.

THE WINTER ISSUE

THE FUNNY ONE â&#x20AC;Ś

During one of his trips and with his eternal quest for the â&#x20AC;&#x153;traditional paellaâ&#x20AC;? recipe in his mind (which I am sharing with some modifications, to his dismay), my globetrotting brother encountered two Spanish ladies. They politely asked him to swap seats so they could be together during the trip, which allowed him the opportunity to inquire if they knew how to make â&#x20AC;&#x153;traditional paella.â&#x20AC;?

“Of course!” they said in unison, so he drilled them about conflicting research regarding the inclusion of one of the main ingredients, the tomato. The more extroverted one answered with that inimitable forceful tone the Spanish use when conveying information (or opinions), passionately stating, “NEVER,” and explaining that paella can be traced to the 1200s when the Moors introduced the technique of cultivating rice in Spain, and the tomato (from the West Indies) was discovered in 1492.

Meanwhile, the other friend, still seated behind the lady lecturing about the tomato, but in perfect view of my brother, gesticulated that her friend was crazy, that tomato was the soul of the paella, and that it “HAD” to be included. Suddenly, the lecturing lady turned, facing her friend, realizing that she had been contradicting and mocking her behind her back. An epic battle of words started between them and as it escalated in volume and temper, my brother only wanted to disappear from the scene, no closer to an answer for his burning paella question.

THE TOUCHING ONE …

Chef José Andrés nourished not only the body but the soul of Puerto Ricans with “Paella María” just after the homonymous hurricane devastated Puerto Rico with seemingly insurmountable challenges, not the least of which was the lack of electricity. But in spite of the adverse circumstances, over a period of three weeks his team managed to serve a million portions of paella made with whatever the island could provide – chicken, seafood, vegetables, bread.

THE CHALLENGING ONE …

Recently my friend Michelle Newman, after seeing a picture of my paella sans crustaceans, asked if I could teach a paella class to her culinary ambassadors group. I was a little apprehensive, but my teaching gene got the best of me and I agreed.

She explained there would be a couple of restrictions since we would be cooking in a Hanafi Muslim halal kitchen! Panic ensued – no pork, no chorizo, no crustaceans or any seafood for that matter. How on earth to build the deep flavors of paella with such restrictions? Enlisting my sister’s

discerning palate, I created a rub using Hungarian sweet paprika and marinated halal chicken for several minutes before searing in olive oil. That at least helped with the lack of kick the spicy chorizo would have added to the dish.

Armed with the fearlessness Chef Andrés displayed in Puerto Rico, I walked into the Halal Paella class. According to students that had tried “traditional paella,” the Halal version was different, but still enjoyable. The Muslim students said they learned a new way to combine halal ingredients into a different dish they could prepare for their families from now on.

THE EMERGENCY ONE …

My quest for the definition of the truly “traditional paella” was caused by another brother (NOT the Paella researcher). His birthday was coming up and he had been reminiscing about how much he missed a good “traditional paella,” so I wanted to surprise him with one for his celebration.

He is terribly allergic to crustaceans, so again I had to improvise, something completely outside of my comfort zone.

I eliminated our beloved shrimp and langoustine from our family’s traditional recipe and substituted them with clams, calamari, baby octopus and the crowning touch, frog’s legs!!

Yes, you are reading correctly – and while not very traditional, it was quite delicious.

Having allowed my musings to take me full circle, I am now fully conscious of why paella is so famous across the globe and how “traditional paella” according to my per-ception is a personal construct that embodies availability, nourishment, feelings, family love and friends’ affection, etc., with no unique set-in-stone definition. Some will have tomato … and some won’t.

8)"5h4 */ :063 53"%*5*0/"- 1"&--"

Tag @ediblesa on Instagram with a photo of ZPVS version of traditional paella by May 1 for a chance to win a free one-year subscription to Edible San Antonio. If it’s the winner’s own recipe, we’ll print it in next year’s Paella Challenge issue. The winner will be announced in the Summer issue and on our Facebook page!

An epic battle of words started between them and as it escalated in volume and temper, my brother only wanted to disappear from the scene, no closer to an answer for his burning paella question. ediblesanantonio.com

MPDBM USBEJUJPO _ paella challenge

Chef John Tamez and MacArthur Culinary Arts Team placed second at last year’s Paella Challenge. (Photo by Frederic Covo)

LOCAL STUDENTS SHINE AT PAELLA CHALLENGE

E

BY THOMAS ZAMUDIO

very year, more than 30 chefs participate in Chef Johnny Hernandez’s Paella Challenge, competing for bragging rights for the best paella in the city. While sampling the various creative takes on paella from some of San Antonio’s top chefs is always a treat, the real stars of the show are local high school culinary teams who compete in the H-E-B High School Paella Challenge. Since 2012, local high schools’ culinary teams have had the opportunity to enter this special student competition, hoping to snare First Place for their high school.

Last March at the 10th Annual Paella Challenge, the annual benefit started by Chef Hernandez to support his nonprofit, Kitchen Campus, several local high school teams 3

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

competed for wonderful prizes. Paella Challenge raises funds for the nonprofit to help young people practice cooking skills and learn techniques to prepare for work in the food industry. Ace-Mart provides the students with professional gear and Chef Johnny Hernandez shared that H-E-B has been a great supporter of the effort.

“H-E-B has enjoyed a long-standing partnership with the Paella Challenge, specifically being involved in the H-E-B High School Challenge since 2012. Through this partnership, more than 400 San Antonio area high school students compete with their own take on paella and every year they amaze us with their skills and flavors!” H-E-B spokesperson Julie Bedingfield added.

We met with some of the local culinary teachers leading teams to ask about their participation in the challenge and to learn more about the culinary arts programs on their campuses.

MACARTHUR HIGH SCHOOL

Chef John Tamez has been teaching at MacArthur High School since October 2018, following an 11-year career teaching Culinary Arts at the Art Institute of San Antonio. Chef Tamez moved to high school because he wanted to work with and inspire younger students. Today, he helps high school students develop the skills and techniques they need to get started in the culinary field.

He explained his program at MacArthur is based on project-based learning, which allows him to assess their skills and technique. Chef Tamez hopes to grow his program and wants his students to be recognized for being competitive with other programs in the city, producing top notch future chefs. When asked about the secret that he and his students have to win the challenge, Chef Tamez answered with one word: Technique. He has taught his students how to make sausage from scratch and allowed them to experiment with their own blend of spices and flavors. The students also made their own sofrito and aioli for the challenge, focusing on applying these techniques to a classic paella.

TAFT HIGH SCHOOL

Chef Bill Barker has been teaching at William Howard Taft High School since 2013. He worked as a college minister for more than 25 years, but his passion for food inspired him to start teaching culinary arts at the high school level.

Chef Barkerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s passion for cooking is what he loves to share with his students â&#x20AC;&#x201C; he loves what he does and explained he gets tremendous support from campus faculty and administration. The Taft High School Culinary Arts program includes a focus on catering, where students learn to prepare meals for hundreds of hungry guests at luncheons throughout the school year. Chef Barker believes this experience helps to prepare his students for the pressures and stresses that they will certainly encounter when they are in a real restaurant kitchen, and the students learn the value of teamwork from the beginning of his program. Taft Culinary Arts students participate in many competitions, and they thrive on the creative, competitive atmosphere that these events provide. Last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Paella Challenge team was no exception, 11th grade students made up the team, making them a younger team who can learn and grow. We look forward to seeing what they will accomplish this year. Last year they created a paella inspired by San Antonioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tricentennial, celebrating Hispanic heritage called â&#x20AC;&#x153;Paella a la Mexicanaâ&#x20AC;? featuring fresh chorizo and queso fresco.

-BOJFS )JHI 4DIPPM TUVEFOUT DBNF JO UIJSE BU MBTU ZFBShT 1BFMMB $IBMMFOHF 1IPUP CZ " $PWP

ediiblesanant ed lesananto onio.c o.co om

LANIER HIGH SCHOOL

Chef Eric Dromgoole led the Lanier High School team, which brought their A-game (and the flavors of the Westside with some family secret brisket!) to the Paella Challenge.

Chef Dromgoole, a U.S. Army veteran who previously worked at Sam Houston High School, always wanted to work with young people and found that teaching culinary arts was the perfect fit for him. He believes oďŹ&#x20AC;ering culinary arts and other hospitality-oriented programs at the high school level gives students a diďŹ&#x20AC;erent pathway to success, especially since these programs focus on learning practical skills that give students an edge and opportunities to build their futures.

BRANDEIS HIGH SCHOOL

The Brandeis High School team, led by Chef Rachael Wright, opted to spice up their Paella Challenge entry last year with Thai-inspired flavors. Chef Wright has been teaching at Brandeis High School for seven years; she previously worked as a History teacher. She loves learning from her students and built her program with a strong emphasis on working together and collaboration. Her program is very large with 50 students in Culinary Arts I, seven students in Culinary Practicum, and 250 in the Introduction to Culinary Arts! Chef Wright estimates that 10 percent of her students already know they want a future in the culinary field, and she works tirelessly to make sure that they are able to achieve that goal.

SOUTHSIDE HIGH SCHOOL

Chef Angel Machado and his team from Southside High School brought a Southside twist to their paella entry last year â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and threw in fresh sofrito to honor Chef Machadoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Puerto Rican heritage for good measure. Chef Machado came to Southside High School four years ago, following a successful career as a regional chef with Aramark and U.S. Dining. He believes the transition was the â&#x20AC;&#x153;best decision he ever made.â&#x20AC;? With 180 students active in his program, he loves bringing his real-world experience to the classroom, demonstrating skills that are needed to make it in professional kitchens. Chef Machado was also excited to share that next year Southside High School will be oďŹ&#x20AC;ering a Dual Credit Culinary Arts class for students, allowing students to earn college credit while still in high school. Due to the booming success of his program, Chef Machado now has to interview all students interested in pursuing culinary arts at Southside High School to ensure they are committed to the work needed to succeed.

Each of the high school teams that participate in the Paella Challenge work hard, much of it on their own time, and each student gives up a lot to take part in this event. The students embody the passion and drive important not only to their own personal success but to the greater San Antonio community. This year, 12 local high school teams will compete. With young people like this coming up in the culinary world, the future of food in San Antonio looks very bright.

To learn more, visit paellachallenge.com.

5IF TUVEFOU UFBN GSPN 3PCFSU ( $PMF )JHI 4DIPPM UPPL GJSTU QMBDF BU 1BFMMB $IBMMFOHF 1IPUP CZ " $PWP

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

the recipe

MAKE YOUR OWN

PAELLA

BY CHEF JAMES CANTER With all this talk about paella, we thought youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to make your own. Enjoy this paella recipe from Chef James Canter of Taverna and Guerrilla Gourmet.

THE RECIPE ~ CLASSIC PAELLA INGREDIENTS 6 cups clam or seafood broth 1 teaspoon saďŹ&#x20AC;ron 1½ pounds firm-fleshed fish, bite-size pieces 1 dozen mussels 1 dozen small clams 12 large shrimp in shells 2 tablespoons parsley, minced 8 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon fresh thyme 2 teaspoons smoked paprika 8 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped 6 scallions, chopped 1 red bell pepper, finely chopped 1 large tomato, chopped 2 cups Bomba or Calasparra paella rice Lemon wedges and garlic mayonnaise (aioli)

DIRECTIONS Heat broth in a large pot. Stir in saďŹ&#x20AC;ron.

Pat fish and shrimp dry with paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and let sit 10 minutes.

Use a mortar and pestle to mash parsley, garlic, thyme and a pinch of salt into a paste; stir in paprika. Add a little water if necessary, to form a paste.

Heat 6 tablespoons of oil in a 15-inch paella pan over medium-high heat.

Quickly brown the fish for 1-2 minutes, but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fully cook. Remove to warm platter.

Add remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, onion, scallions and bell pepper to the now empty paella pan and cook until the vegetables slightly soften.

Raise heat, add chopped tomato and cook until it becomes sauce-like, 2 to 5 minutes. Pour in the hot broth and bring to a boil. Sprinkle the rice evenly across the pan.

Boil for 3 minutes, stirring rice and rotating pan occasionally.

Add all reserved fish (but not the shrimp). Stir in parsley paste.

Taste and add salt as needed. Do not stir after this point.

Lower the heat, continue to simmer until rice is no longer soupy but enough liquid remains to continue cooking the rice, about 10 min. Add extra liquid if necessary.

Arrange shrimp, clams and mussels over rice, placing edges of mussel and clam shells so they open facing up. Cook, uncovered, for 15-20 minutes until rice is almost done. Remove pan from the heat and cover with foil. Let sit 10 minutes. Garnish with lemon wedges and fresh aioli (garlic mayonnaise).

Optional: Add a pack of sliced Aureliaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chorizos to make it a classic paella.Â

ediiblesananto ed lesanantonio.c o.co om

3

classic tradition

FIRE & RICE

Traditional Paella Valenciana (Photo Courtesy)

HOW PAELLA WENT LATIN

BY ANA KINKAID Ana Kinkaidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interest in Latin cuisine began as she traveled the world as the daughter of an American diplomat. The sought-after culinary consultant works with companies seeking to share their unique stories with chefs and restaurateurs. Her clients range from Stash Tea to Taylor Shellfish Farms. Ms. Kinkaid is a regular speaker on emerging world food trends at The Culinary Institute of America and American Culinary Federation conferences, where she shared this talk about the history of the iconic dish and kindly agreed to share it with our readers.

A

In Veracruz, the Spanish found a previously unknown vegetable that matched perfectly with rice, peppers and shellfish - the tomato. (Photo by Carole Topalian)

38

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

s interest in Latin food grows, one of the most popular yet mysterious dishes is paella.

The story of paella begins when the Moors of North Africa conquered most of Spain in 710 AD. The advanced culture brought new breakthroughs in agriculture, science and medicine to the weary peninsula.

They built the magnificent Alhambra, today a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and even translated the Gospels from Latin into the Spanish of the day so that all might read them.

The Moors ruled with tolerance and understanding until 1492.

Important to the story of paella is also the introduction of an earthenware bowl, called a tagine. (Photo courtesy)

During their 700-year reign, they cleared the disease-infested marshes near the city of Valencia, built irrigation systems and introduced short grain rice to southeastern Spain, where it is still harvested today.

Important to the story of paella is also the introduction of an earthenware bowl, called a tagine. Its slanted sides centered the cooking rice at the panâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bottom, concentrating the flavor and creating a unique rice crust when cooked correctly.

By the time the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella, conquered Spain in 1492, the humble tagine had long lost its lid, but the

Moorish architecture in the Court of Lions, Alhambra, Granada, Spain.

(Photo courtesy)

Paella cooked over a wood fire. (Photo courtesy) ediblesanantonio.com

39

Portrait depicting Benito Juárez by Salvador Martínez Báez in the Library of Congress Hispanic Reading Room. (Photo courtesy)

Generalissimo Francisco Franco (1930) ruled over Spain as a dictator for 36 years from 1939 until his death in 1975. (Photo courtesy)

40

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

clay pan had become a staple in the Spanish kitchen.

Long years of conflict left the country nearly bankrupt. The poor suffered the most with their daily meal reduced to wild snails or maybe an unlucky rabbit cooked on a bed of rice in a worn tagine, now called a “paella,” meaning a “leftovers pan.”

Even the King and Queen felt the need for money and decided to convert small farms into more profitable pasture for the wool-producing Merino sheep. As farmers faced eviction from their land, the sea and the New World seemed their only opportunity.

When Columbus sailed in 1492 and discovered Cuba and the Caribbean Islands, aboard his ships were former farmers, many literally learning the ropes as they sailed, for they were so desperate they were willing to risk sailing off the edge of the world. And aboard those ships were also bags of Valencia rice – serving as both ballast and food.

Upon arriving in the New World, they discovered a realm unlike anything they had ever experienced before. Everything was new, exotic and apparently free for the taking, at least from the Spanish point of view.

In the Old World everything belonged to someone, usually the rich.

In Spain, the nobles most often dined on shellfish because they owned the tidelands. In the New World, the mussels, clams and oysters were free for the taking.

Within a short time, the endless bounty of shellfish replaced the snails and rare rabbit in the farmer’s meager homeland dish of rice.

Additional flavor was added when natives shared the spicy kick of hot peppers with Spanish cooks.

By 1521, a new breed of explorer arrived, ready to search anew for gold and fame. The man leading that expedition was Hernán Cortés and the country he discovered was Mexico.

After several unsuccessful landing attempts, he finally brought his small fleet of ships to rest at the site of the present day city of Veracruz.

Pressing inland, he discovered the spectacular Aztec capital, Tenochtitlan, the site of Mexico City today.

Driven by the desire to possess the vast wealth he saw there, battles soon erupted between the Spanish soldiers and Aztec warriors. Advanced technology (the gun and the horse), along with disease, largely won the day for the Spanish as thousands upon thousands of Aztecs died defending their capital.

Once victorious, the Spanish set about evaluating their new territorial possession and found the land offered many new and wonderful resources. The flat land near Veracruz, where they first landed, proved to be excellent for growing rice.

Shellfish were abundant nearby and the warm sun produced a previously unknown vegetable that matched perfectly with rice, peppers and shellfish – the tomato.

As the decades passed, it became harder and harder for Spain to administer their New World colonies from faraway Madrid. Spaniards born in the New World, often with native wives and children, were appointed as governors to bridge the distance. As a result, European cuisine was intermingled with native dishes, including the now modified rice dish from Valencia.

By the 1800s, often inspired by the example of America’s independence, Spain’s many New World colonies were beginning to seek their own freedom from a remote monarchy. By 1857, these changes had come full circle when Mexico chose Benito Juárez, a full-blooded Native American, as President.

Sadly, while the New World was reaching for freedom and prosperity, Spain was experiencing economic disaster. For centuries, the wealth of the New World poured into the country unchecked, causing vast inflation in the prices of goods.

In the 1490s, additional flavor was added to the dish when New World natives shared the spicy kick of hot peppers with the Spanish cooks. (Photo by Carole Topalian)

During the late 1880s, and again in the 1930s, political challenges to this unsuccessful economic pattern arose, only to be crushed by rigid traditional forces.

Perhaps the cruelest oppression came during the 1930s under the Dictator Franco, who especially hated Valencia because it was the capital of the rebellious Second Republic. He so hated Valencia, he ordered that anyone making or eating Valencia’s favorite traditional rice dish could be shot on sight.

Yet, as is the fate of all dictators, the economic policies of repression and control failed. By the late 1950s, Spain was on the verge of bankruptcy. Finally, Franco accepted the advice of his finance ministers and agreed to heavily promote tourism to Spain, which he had once sought to isolate from the modern world.

Spain’s beaches on the Mediterranean are among the world’s finest, and it was these beaches that the new Tourist Bureau decided to promote, including the coastal city of Valencia.

Among the welcomed tourists arriving from France were chefs who, of course, wanted to taste the local food. Their enthusiasm centered primarily on one dish – Valencia’s favorite rice dish, its crisp crust now enhanced with shellfish, peppers and tomatoes – all gifts from the New World.

Then, as now, it was served in the same side-slanted pan it was cooked in with guests eating from the outer edge to the center. It was a communal meal that amazed and delighted the chefs.

Yet, knowing Franco’s dislike of all things relating to Valencia, the trade authorities knew if they were going to promote the dish (and they

did), it could not be named after Valencia. As they questioned the region’s cooks, they found the pan in which it was cooked was still called by its original Spanish name, “paella.”

And that is how Valencia’s humble rice dish became known as paella worldwide. As a result, the rice dish of Cuba, that had always been called “Arroz Cubana,” was quickly renamed “Paella Cubana,” and Mexico’s “Arroz Veracruz” became “Paella Veracruz.”

Today, while Valencia can rightly claim its fame as the home of paella, there are endless variations from the tip of South America (paella colored in squid black ink) to the Philippines, where an elaborate everything-included paella (seafood, shellfish, sausage, chicken, vegetables, peppers and more) is prepared as a special holiday feast.

In spite of its humble beginnings, paella is truly a global dish, its circular fame mirroring the shape of the pan from which it claims its name.

But paella is far more than a brief culinary experience – it can remind us that we are all part of a past that links inescapably to an enriched inclusive future, a future where all are invited to dine together in peace and fellowship.

What dish, so full of history and tasty ingredients, could be a better example of that vision then paella gone Latin!

Editor’s Note: With such a rich history, we hope you can’t wait to have a little paella of your own. View, taste and enjoy paella in all its glory and in just about every variation at Chef Johnny Hernandez’ Eleventh Annual Paella Challenge from noon to 4 p.m. on Sunday, March 8 at Mission County Park. Tickets are available at www.paellachallenge.com. ediblesanantonio.com

41

edible destination

42

edible San Antonio

View of Old Quebec from Lower Town with Château Frontenac visible at top. (Photo by Wilfredo Rodriguez)

THE WINTER ISSUE

CULINARY ADVENTURE IN HISTORIC QUÉBEC

PHOTOS AND STORY BY MICHELLE NEWMAN

O

ne of the most beautiful cites in the world, Québec City is proud of its 400-year-plus heritage – and you don’t even have to cross the Atlantic to enjoy its distinct European vibe, oozing with charm and packed with

history.

Old Québec is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the only remaining fortified city north of Mexico. Stunning 17th and 18th century stone buildings accented with slanting rooflines and colorful shutters line narrow, meandering cobblestone streets and Place Royale in Lower Town. Often described as the “cradle of French civilization in North America,” this is where it all started with explorer Samuel de Champlain in 1608.

Québécois love fine food as much as they love history.

Boulangeries, tempting patisseries and inviting outdoor cafés are everywhere. Québec City is also home to North America’s oldest grocery store. Founded in 1871, Épicerie J.A. Moisan is a foodie’s feast for the eyes as well. Renowned for its superb selection of local and global fine foods, including preserves and fine cheeses, the quaint décor makes it the perfect backdrop for Instagram photo ops.

LUNCH

Linger over a leisurely lunch at Le Lapin Sauté in the heart of Quartier Petit Champlain. Lapin, or rabbit, rules here. The menu includes Rabbit Sausage, Rabbit Rillettes served with glazed confit carrot and apple-bacon and onion sauce, Rabbit Cassoulet and Rabbit Poutine. The cozy restaurant has just the right recipe for romance, with a welcoming stone fireplace, heavy hand-hewn wooden beams, dim lighting and dried herbs hanging from the rafters. It’s just like being in a rustic French country inn.

Or browse around the postcard-pretty historic district renowned for designer boutiques, fine art galleries, outdoor cafés and specialty shops. L’Échaudé, located in the Old Port District, has been a local favorite for over 30 years. The bistro features modern French classics such as Steak Frite, Beef Tartare, and Duck Confit. If you’re an adventurous eater, try the blood sausage.

DINNER

For a contemporary twist on classic Québec favorites, try La Bûche. Signature dishes include Québec Shepherd’s Pie with red-wine-braised beef and fruit ketchup. The artistically arranged charcuterie boards are exquisite presentations. Save room for Pouding Chômeur, or Poor Man’s Pudding – a melt-in-your-mouth French Canadian version of bread pudding. The light and fluffy concoction of cake batter baked in a rich caramel sauce made with local maple syrup and heavy cream. For a twist, it’s topped with teeny slivers of crisp bacon. ediblesanantonio.com

43

THE NATIONAL DISH

No visit to Québec is complete without a poutine experience.

Considered the national dish, poutine is a potato concoction made of wilted French fries and fresh cheese curds smothered with rich brown gravy. To pass the taste test, the cheese must still “squeak” when bitten into. Many eateries throughout the city have their own version of this caloric bomb. Chez Ashton remains a local favorite.

TEA AND BRUNCH

For the ultimate indulgence, enjoy afternoon tea at the castle-like Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. The legendary landmark, majestically perched on a bluff overlooking the Saint Lawrence River, claims to be the most photographed hotel in the world. Tiered platters of finger sandwiches, pretty French pastries, scones and clotted cream are complemented with the Fairmont’s exclusive blend of Maple Tea. Another worthwhile splurge is the grand gourmet brunch at Chez Muffy. One of the city’s best restaurants, it’s housed in an 1820s warehouse. Dine al fresco on the lovely terrace with gorgeous views of the St. Lawrence River. After brunch, browse through Auberge Saint-Antoine, a stunning Relais & Châteaux Hotel where Sir Paul McCartney once stayed. Make sure to take a peek at the hundreds of artifacts excavated during on-site archeological digs.

HISTORIC MEAL

For a taste of history, Restaurant Aux Anciens Canadiens is tops.

Housed in Québec City’s oldest building, accented with lipstick red shutters, the restaurant is famous for traditional Québécois cuisine from the 17th and 18th century. It’s hearty, robust and flavorful peasant food, designed to fill stomachs and impart energy to toil away

on the family farm. Guests can sample authentic, classic dishes such as pea soup, pig knuckles, meat pies (Tourtière), beans cooked with maple syrup and maple sugar tarts topped with fresh whipped cream.

MODERN DIGS

For something more modern, Le Chic Shack, a hipster hangout, has a cool, upbeat vibe. They cook up the town’s best burgers with squishy, soft homemade buns topped with unusual toppings and sauces. Order the pungent, made-from-scratch ginger soda. They also have a unique spin on poutine – the potatoes are smashed, then fried to retain the crispness even after being smothered in a hearty gravy.

FARM-TO-TABLE

Nibble your way around the new public market, Le Grand Marché de Québec. Sample farm-fresh and local specialty items from Île d’Orléans and enjoy the artisan cheeses, maple products, jams and jellies, foie gras, berries and baked goods. Or go directly to Île d’Orléans, a rural farming community just 20 minutes from Québec City. This island in the St. Lawrence River is one of the earliest colonies of New France. The lush, bucolic landscape called “the Garden of Québec” is dotted with farm stands, undulating strawberry fields, vineyards, apple orchards, sugar shacks and pristine 18th century farmhouses.

Epicurean travelers will be dazzled by the richness of this gastronomic oasis. Bring an empty suitcase and fill it up with artisanal cheeses, charcuterie and pâtés, gourmet chocolates, a bottle of the famous cassis blackcurrant liqueur, local wine or apple ice cider, jams and maple products.

Remember, you don’t have to cross the pond for a sweet taste of history. It’s waiting for you in Québec City. To learn more visit www.quebec-cite.com/en and tourisme.iledorleans.com/en.

Culinary adventures await in Quebec.

44

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

ediblesanantonio.com

45

46

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

local pints

DOS SIRENOS BREWING CO.

BY J.E. JORDAN

W

e sampled a few beers at Dos Sirenos Brewing Co., Southtown’s latest brewpub at 231 E. Cevallos St., just before the soft open.

“Well, it wasn’t a lifetime dream, but within the last three years, this has become a dream of ours,” Mike Sireno explained.

In the early 90s, while Texas was lagging behind other states in brewpubs and craft beers, Mr. Sireno was an avid home brewer. On a visit to Colorado, his cousin said he should get ready because the new Texas brewpub law would open up opportunities.

“I thought (opening a brewpub) was the stupidest idea ever,” Mr. Sireno said.

And, for a time, work and family even made him forget about home-brewing – until Mike’s son brought home supplies for a Father’s Day brew and the brewing team was back in action. As soon as they got started, demand quickly exceeded supply. They scaled up a bit and one thing led to another.

“So here I am, this is my retirement plan,” he looked around the taproom. “I thought, I wanna hang out and drink beer someplace, so it might as well be my place. I didn’t want to look back in 10 years and wonder what if.”

After scouting locations, he liked the look of the building on East Cevallos and the promise of the up-and-coming area, but turned it down at first, thinking it might need too much work. But something kept him coming back. There were challenges and sometimes he felt like giving up, like when he discovered the entire pier and beam substructure needed upgrading. But his vision kept him going, and the result proved him right.

“I could picture the feel it would have,” he said. “Now it’s exciting and I’m hoping it will be fun. I still enjoy construction and I’m still

Dos Sirenos Akaushi burger and fries. (Photo courtesy)

working, but I gave my ten-year notice last January.”

The spacious interior is bright and open, with an upbeat industrial look and a pop of color in a curvy overhead feature. A wall of windows looks out on a large, covered beer garden. The logo, featuring two “mermen,” each holding a stein of foaming beer, is designed around the family name, which means merman in Italian. Mr. Sireno brews the beer with his son, hence “Dos Sirenos.”

The Sireno family – Mike, Kari and Jacob – expect the brewery to stand out in Southtown.

He describes himself as an “equal opportunity beer drinker,” and Dos Sirenos offers up stouts, English ales and hoppy IPA’s and with his favorites, German and Belgian styles.

“And then there’s the 104 bananas, Hefe Weiss. It was the first batch we brewed onsite and we had temperature control issues ... we caught it and got the temp back down – that’s the skill of brewing – and it turned out better than we thought,” he said, confessing the “banana forward” Hefe was a one-time thing, not easily reproducible.

We checked in for the grand opening and found we’d landed in the sweet spot, right between brunch and lunch, with ten blissful minutes to choose from either menu created by Chef J.D Rivera, formerly of Fair Oaks Country Club. While we waited for the French toast from the brunch menu and the crispy fried chicken sandwich and Akaushi burger from the lunch menu, we sipped a flight of the five beers on tap.

As we finished the flight, our meal and pints arrived, a Dark Belgian, a Saison, and a Winter Brown ale.

The five-barrel brewery is just big enough to guarantee the beer is always fresh. I’m looking forward to the Caerus, a dunkelweizen, one of my favorites. For now, the brewpub at 231 E. Cevallos St. is open Thursday through Sunday. Visit dossirenosbrewing.com for hours, live music info and updates. ediblesanantonio.com

47

the last bite

Last Rise (Photo by Brenna Huff, edits by A. Covo)

M

BY MICHAEL SOHOCKI

an’s conquest of earth is encapsulated in a cup of flour and water. Like yeast.

Yeast cells are individual and infinitely various, each a member of a tribe of different origin. And each tribe arrives on the scene complete with its own set of unique characteristics. Some tribes are older, some derivatives of earlier branches. While the differences are vast, the similarities are few and basic – each tribe is hungry and thirsty, looking for a place to spread out and start a family after their own fashion.

They alight on a fresh resource as chance would have it, in no particular order, like snowflakes. Each possesses its own set of weapons and tools and preparations and pleasures. Staking its claim in its own way on the wide-open expanse, they tiptoe out into the land of milk and honey.

For a time, things are quiet and peaceful. Each member forms the most rudimentary of encampments, leisure time and daisy chains. Streams flow. Food is plentiful – stretch out your hand in any direction and it will be full. This is the long, uneventful stage in their history. No care for tomorrow: limitless expansion.

A carefree world.

Each colony has innate qualities, strengths and weaknesses.

Each makes a thing, takes a thing, has requirements with similar but not identical preferences – levels of tolerance for every stress under the sun. Some are fighters, others not so much.

One day, almost suddenly, the colonies begin to see each other’s developments cresting the top of the hill. Thoughts of limits become real. Lots of gesticulating and pointing. There’s a funny taste in the water. The food is not as free and easy as it once was. Neighbors squabble, an ever-present racket of development 48

edible San Antonio

THE WINTER ISSUE

drumming in your ears. Arguments erupt over a cow. The culture begins to sour. Theme music leans toward the black keys.

It is clear to everyone that at some point the steadily growing borders must meet. Some camps prepare defense – in others, attacks. For the survival of the children, you understand. Someone throws a rock.

Opposing war bands dig in, spears clash: my land, your land.

Like a toppling row of dominoes, civil war ensues: a fight for survival. Arrows fly, fields are burned, villages erased – a countryside dotted with bonfires.

(Here I scoop out half and replace with fresh flour and water, a mass extinction event that suddenly frees up vast amounts of land and resources. The sturdy survivors shake off the dirt and lay down rudimentary encampments.)

They enter a feudal period. The strongest of the warring factions gather strength and charge toward each other. Armies tear each other apart, leaving smoldering wreckage of civilizations behind them, who are then themselves blown to smithereens by other stronger or better positioned foes. As the war for resources continues the story repeats, becoming stronger and more singular by the day... as I scoop and replace, scoop and replace. A battle of sixteen armies. Eight. Four. Two. One. The culture of that last is supreme, for a time: a late middle age.

Here, we pause. Largest and most powerful, skyscrapers and monuments, vast networks and tremendous power, capable of annihilating anything that dares to lift a finger into the sweeping blade of its culture – and yet, its own enemy – for if I do not scoop and replace, it will quickly strip itself of resources, expand to the edges of its world, devour everything in its path, and crash.

It makes delightful bread. But us?