Edible San Antonio

TO

edible San Antonio

FARM HOME

edible

san antonio®

eat. drink. think.

www.alamoranchfarm.market CLICK • ORDER • RECEIVE • ENJOY LOCAL PRODUCE, MEATS & HANDMADE ITEMS DELIVERED TO YOU

The Late Summer Issue

FREE DELIVERY

MOBILE FARMERS MARKET • LOCAL FOOD CONCIERGE SERVICE

Issue No. 34

TO FIRST-TIME CUSTOMERS ACTIVE MILITARY AND VETERANS

A UNESCO CREATIVE CITY OF GASTRONOMY

we’lltoast toasttotothat that we’ll 40 wineries & tasting | museums & historic sites | peaches & wildflowers German heritage | golf over 40over wineries & tasting rooms |rooms museums & historic sites | peaches & wildflowers | German| heritage | golf sophisticated shopping | festivals art galleries | Hill cuisine Country| cuisine | live Texas music sophisticated shopping | festivals & events& |events eclectic| eclectic art galleries | cycling || cycling Hill Country live Texas music

Every Every cabin cabin comes comes withwith luxurious luxurious linens, linens, a wood-burning a wood-burning fireplace fireplace andand MMAAJ O J OR R B BR ROOWWN NI EI E P P OO I NI N T ST S You’ll You’ll be the be the herohero when when you you bookbook a Cotton a Cotton Gin Gin Village Village cabin cabin for your for your nextnext getaway. getaway.

These These privately privately situated situated cabins cabins nestled nestled around around a a lushlush circular circular courtyard courtyard are your are your answer answer to relaxation. to relaxation.

Enjoy Enjoy the front the front porch porch

rocker, rocker, the stone the stone fireplace, fireplace, the courtyard the courtyard waterfalls waterfalls and the andgourmet the gourmet breakfast breakfast pastries pastries prepared prepared by the by adjoining the adjoining Cabernet Cabernet Grill. Grill.

And it’s And it’s just minutes just minutes from from Main Main Street!

Street!

Book Book now.now.

They’ll They’ll thankthank you later. you later.

8 3803 09 9909 50 753743 4C O CTOTTOTN OGNI G N IVNI V L LI LALGAEG. CE O . CMO M

F RFERDE EDREIRCIK CSKBSUBRUGR,GT, ETXEAXSA S

i crkgsTbXu. rc g V i s i t FVriesdi teFrri e c kdsebr u oT mX |. c8o6m 6 9| 9876 63 690907 3 6 0 0

Late Summer 2019 ~ Issue No. 34

CONTENTS

Above~“Nobody does Tiki Better” than Southtown’s Hot Joy. (Photo: Kody Melton) Cover~ Tropical Depression No.3 prepared by Nick Ivarra at Hot Joy. (Photo: Empty Stomach Group)

FOOD FOR THOUGHT The Truth About Idling

32

EDIBLE DESTINATION Flavors of the Azores

ADVISORY COUNCIL The Edible SA Board

34

LATIN ROOTS Pozole’s Shocking History

LITTLE BITES Yuca, Rosemary and More

35

LOCALLY GLOBAL A Taste of Roma

NEWS YOU CAN USE Swim at Your Own Risk ...

36

MIMI’S HEIRLOOM RECIPES Yoshoku

22

EDIBLE FILM SAFILM debuts Food Film Fest

38

RANCH LIFE Squash Cake!

25

LOCAL TRADITION Texas Tiki Week

40

EDIBLE INK Texas Seafood Cookbook and Comprehensive Guide

LOCAL DINING Guide Eat Local with Us

42

LOCAL PINTS Local Flavor at Roughhouse Brewing

30

FROM THE GARDEN Mighty Microgreens

44

SOMMELIER SAYS Remembering Bunny Becker

31

LOCAL FARMERS MARKETS Where and When

48

THE LAST BITE Inner Workings

ediblesanantonio.com

1

edible

food for thought

San Antonio® PUBLISHER

Frederic C. Covo

THE TRUTH ABOUT

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Angela Covo

MANAGING EDITOR

Delia Covo

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Sophie Covo Gonzales

HOW TURNING OFF YOUR VEHICLE FOR 10 SECONDS CAN SAVE MILLIONS

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR

Christopher Covo

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Marianne Odom, Amanda Covo CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

WARMING UP

DAMAGING

RESTARTING

Even in cold weather, engines only need 30 seconds to warm up.

Turning your car off is better for the engine than leaving it running.

10 seconds of idling wastes more fuel than restarting.

WHERE to turn it off

Nichole Bendele, Moises Cobox Elena D’Agostino, Marcy Epperson Mimi Faubert, Kate Fernandez Nick Ivarra, J.E. Jordan Pascuale Loera, Michelle Newman Michael Sohocki, Dave Terrazas Angel Ugarte, Jillian Verner DESIGN & LAYOUT

Florence Edwards, Pixel Power Graphics Cover Photo, Empty Stomach Group CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

DRIVE-THRUS

DRIVEWAYS

SCHOOLS

TRAINS

BANKS

CAR WASHES

MALLS

BRIDGES

16 MILLION GALLONS OF FUEL

Jose Bañuelos, Melanie Dompierre Priscilla Du Preez, Jessica Giesey Jorge Láscar, Kody Melton David Monniaux, Arleen Pedroza Leigh Thelmadatter FINANCE MANAGER Louis Gonzales WEB DIRECTOR Kurt Gardner

Our heartfelt thanks to the friends and businesses who make this magazine possible.

Remember to like us on Facebook @ www.Facebook.com/EdibleSanAntonio

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

Please call 210-274-6572 or email angela@ediblesanantonio.com

ADVERTISING

Please call 210-365-8046 or email fred@ediblesanantonio.com

SMALL ACTION BIG CHANGE

LEARN HOW TO BE IDLE-FREE TURN IT OFF

ITURNITOFF.COM

Homegrown Media LLC publishes Edible San Antonio every eight weeks.

Distribution is throughout South Central Texas and nationally by subscription.

Your annual subscriptions support the mission and are just $35 per year.

Please order online at www.EdibleSA.com or call (210) 365-8046 to order by phone.

We make every effort to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, please accept our apologies and let us know. Thank you.

No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. © 2019. All rights reserved. soy_ink.pdf

1

4/21/15

4:03 PM

Member of Edible Communities

2

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

nio

Cha

J .

............... . . . . ... ...

m

u

r

..

. .. J

hhm

p te

J

12

J

J

Y r Z

Presents

s

D

m

J

f i e r I n te r n a t i o n a l S a n A n t o

Da

Le

2

of d’Esc mes

J

u

D2

Sunday, October 6, 2019 j 2 - 6 p.m.

River Rock Event Center at Fair Oaks Ranch

u Corporate Tables and Individual Tickets Available For information and purchase: LoneStarAfternoon.org or call 210.884.0123

u

HIghlights Tastings and Cocktails with Authentic Texas Whiskeys Paired with Texas Bites Sunday Supper Dame Famous Mile of Pies Silent Auction, Live Auction & LIVE MUSIC

“Whiskey Pull” Beer, Wine & WHISKEY!

Y r Z

a special thank you EDIBLE SAN ANTONIO

4

ADVISORY COUNCIL

Chef Michael Sohocki

Leslie Komet Ausburn

Darryl Byrd

Sandy Winokur, Ph. D

Roberta Churchin

Marianne Odom

Chef Stephen Paprocki

Adam Rocha

Di-Anna Arias

Chef Johnny Hernandez

Bob Webster

Chef Jeff White

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

little bites

Yuca is the starchy nutritious tuber of the cassava plant. (Photo by David Monniaux)

COOKING WITH YUCA

Y

uca, pronounced yoo-ka, a delicious underrated ingredient, is a root vegetable that grows well in tropical weather and is available year-round.

There are many ways to prepare yuca, and while it’s impossible to list them all, it’s often prepared like potatoes. Thanks to its high carb content, it’s also a good source of energy. This root vegetable is high in dietary fiber, calcium and potassium.

Yuca (not to be confused with the desert yucca plant, pronounced yuh-ka) is the root of the cassava plant, which is grown in tropical climates and does well just about anywhere in full sun.

Cassava, also known as manihoc esculenta or manioc, is a hardy plant but needs regular watering and cannot tolerate freezing temperatures. The root has waxy brown skin, so the tuber can hold water. The plant is also capable of carrying water in its leaves. It takes about 18 months from planting to harvest.

COOKING WITH YUCA

Former San Antonio Country Club Executive Chef Nelson Millan, a native of Puerto Rico, shared a few tips about cooking with yuca, which should never be eaten raw.

To pick a good yuca at the supermarket, snap a little piece off the tip to make sure it’s all white. If there are any black spots or discoloration, the yuca is past its prime and won’t turn out right.

A crucial part of preparing yuca is peeling the skin, which for

some can be intimidating thanks to its bark-like quality. Chef Millan offered a fast and easy way to remove the skin – cut the yuca into sections, then score the waxy brown covering lengthwise. Finally, soak the pieces in hot water and the skin will slip off.

It’s best to cut a yuca into spears (slice in half lengthwise, then slice in half again). Remember to remove the center spine because that part of the yuca has an unpleasant mouth feel.

The most generic way to cook this tuber is to boil and serve with a vinaigrette prepared with onions, oregano, oil, garlic and lime juice – Cuban-style. Puerto Ricans and Dominicans use a slightly different approach, using a mix of vinegar, sour orange, oregano, black pepper, onions and garlic (sometimes called mojo).

To fry yuca, boil it first. Don’t overcook, but cook until it is slightly tender (about 10 to 15 minutes), then fry until golden brown. This is just one of the ways to prepare the starchy root like potatoes – yuca fries are delicious and often served with mojo and ketchup or sriracha.

Raw yuca is also often grated to use in pasteles de yuca, a Caribbean-style tamale made with a masa from yuca instead of cornmeal.

Alcapurrias, a Puerto Rican dish (also called carimañolas in other Latin countries), incorporates a yuca masa shell stuffed with ground beef, onions, garlic, oregano, bell peppers and cilantro.

Yuca can also be dried and ground into a powder to make tapioca, used to make pudding and thicken soups and sauces. Years ago, tapioca starch was even used to iron clothes. ~ Angel Ugarte ediblesanantonio.com

5

little bites

TIM THE GIRL’S JBF ADVENTURE

T

he James Beard Foundation (JBF) wants to erase barriers in the culinary industry and the Women’s Leadership Programs are just one way the organization is meeting that challenge.

Our very own Tim the Girl McDiarmid was recently selected to participate in WEL, the Women’s Entrepreneurial Leadership Program, which is part of the James Beard Foundation Women’s Leadership Programs presented by Audi.

The annual fellowship allows a class of up to 20 women to attend a five-day intensive entrepreneurship and leadership training program developed with Babson College, a private business school focused on entrepreneurship since its 1919 founding. The program continues throughout the year with events, meetings and webinars intended to grow the network of women leaders across the country.

Targeted to women chefs/owners looking to expand and grow, the program’s curriculum addresses advanced business and finance concerns related to entrepreneurship and expansion and offers gender-specific training and leadership development.

Tim underwent a lengthy application and interview process to be chosen and is one of just two fellows from Texas. While the application process was arduous, Ms. McDiarmid is thrilled she made the cut.

“I’m excited and honored to be part of this group and program at JBF,” she said. “Being an entrepreneur can be lonely at times and it’s a wonderful opportunity to connect with

6

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

women and mentors from around the country and work with and learn from others in our industry.”

Katherine Miller, Vice President of Impact at the James Beard Foundation, recently wrote that according to Women Owned, as of January 2017 an estimated 11.6 million women-owned businesses in the US employ nearly 9 million people and generate $1.7 trillion in revenue.

She explained that “food-related businesses are one of the top sectors of women-owned businesses and this sector is growing year over year. Like other industries, we know that when women own businesses, their communities win. Women reinvest up to 90 percent of their income into their families and communities, compared to 40 percent for men.”

And that was just part of what made Tim the Girl an outstanding candidate for the program.

“The WEL program is designed for women who want to take their businesses to the next level and Tim certainly fits the bill. She is a proven leader and someone whose natural drive and ambition shows in how she’s grown her business in San Antonio. She’s invested in this community and we’re now investing in her next round of expansion and success,” Ms. Miller told Edible SA. With the new event space at The Ivy in Southtown, Tim the Girl is also looking forward to hosting San Antonio’s great parties and feasts.

“We have an acre of stunning garden that can serve as the perfect backdrop to almost any event … we are booking both the indoor and outdoor spaces now, where we can accommodate large parties up to 400 people. And we love to work on small parties, too,” she added.

To learn more about The Good Kind Hospitality Group, visit www.eatgoodkind. com and www.ivyhallevents.com. To learn more about Women’s Leadership Programs at JBF, visit www.jamesbeard. org/women-leadership-programs.

ediblesanantonio.com

7

little bites

TRENDING NOW

MOCKTAILS, VEGGIE POPS AND SLUSHIES

W

rap up summer with shaved ice craft mocktails, cool, creamy creations inspired by subtropical destinations, or delicious veggie ice pops and slushies.

McCormick & Company recently shared flavor trends worth exploring for end-of-summer treats. Their recent “Refresh. Replenish. Rehydrate.” campaign kicks off the latest flavors with icy treats to pump up summer’s hottest trend, the mocktail.

But there’s more. While refreshing classic coolers like lemonade and snow cones always hit the spot, try a grapefruit basil shaved ice mocktail, blackberry sweet potato ice pop, buttermilk masala chaas (spiced buttermilk) drink or maybe a frozen kaffir lime pie.

“Our latest Flavor Forecast trend reinvents traditional cooling treats to meet everyone’s increased craving for bold flavor experiences,” McCormick Executive Chef Kevan Vetter explained.

The company zoned in on three areas growing in popularity.

MOCKTAILS

Low-proof and no-proof drinks, mocktails, are all the rage. Give your craft cocktails the big chill and enjoy shaved ice drinks with all the flavor and experience, served up low- or no-alcohol style. Bold, concentrated flavors from fresh fruit syrups, bitters and sours make sure the flavors last as the ice melts. Sip, slurp, spoon and repeat.

Indulge yourself with sweet and savory pops, slushies and mousse that spotlight the goodness of veggies with delectable taste from ingredients like mint, dill, ginger, cinnamon, blackberries and pineapple. They’ll leave you feeling refreshed, energized and ready to deal with whatever the hot days bring your way.

THE NEW CREAMY COOL

Classic tall milkshakes are great, but the new creamy creations in town, inspired by subtropical regions like India and Thailand, offer delicious new taste sensations. Meet the buttermilk masala chaas drink, frozen kaffir lime pie and mango lassi bites with coconut cream. Featuring dairy and plant-based ingredients, these are the coolest delights around.

8

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

Masala Chaas, the tangy, buttermilk-based, Indian-inspired drink.

(Photo courtesy)

MASALA CHAAS (Recipe courtesy of McCormick and Company)

DON STRANGE OF TEXAS Old World Terroir...

New World Cuisine

WE HELP YOU

Celebrate

Reserve your tasting experience today

Tasting Room Hours: Thu - Sat 11-6pm, Sun 12-5pm, Mon 12-5pm Appointments Recommended 512-920-2675 or appointments@kuhlmancellars.com

KuhlmanCellars.com | Stonewall, Texas

CATERING | VENUES | EVENT MANAGEMENT info@donstrange.com • 210.434.2331 donstrange.com

ediblesanantonio.com

9

little bites

LOCAL INGREDIENT

RESILIENT ROSEMARY Delicious rosemary sprigs are pretty enough to use as garnish.

(Photo by Priscilla Du Preez)

I

n San Antonio, rosemary flourishes throughout the city. The resilient herb is not only deliciously fragrant, but a wonderful culinary ingredient that is used in beverages as well. And studies show it is also a useful medicinal that improves memory.

GROW YOUR OWN

Originally from the Mediterranean region, rosemary grows well in many types of soil and in warm weather – the drought-tolerant herb requires little water once established – and thrives in San Antonio’s hot sun. The local plant, a member of the Lamiaceae family, which includes sage, basil, mint, oregano and thyme, is easy to grow in containers or in the ground.

No rosemary in your backyard? No problem. The herb is abundant across town and we’ve seen plenty along the banks of the San Antonio River, near the San Antonio Zoo and near the San Antonio Botanical Garden.

Fans of essential oils will recognize rosemary’s distinctive scent. Not only does it smell good, but studies show that rosemary has a modest effect on improving memory. While people have been reporting this effect anecdotally for years, recent studies have documented the effect.

And some researchers hope rosemary might play a role for people who suffer from dementia in the future.

Rosemary’s fresh woodsy scent makes it an excellent choice to use with most proteins, the most popular being lamb and chicken. Many people use dried rosemary found at the grocery store, and while that works in a pinch, rosemary is best used when minced fresh. Its needle-like leaves are quite fibrous, so when cooked whole the herb can 10

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

sometimes be unpleasant to chew through. But when used as a garnish or for flavoring, mincing is not essential.

ROSEMARY INFUSED OIL

Rosemary-infused oil is another easy way to add the herb to proteins that’s always handy. Add about ¼ cup of fresh, slightly crushed rosemary leaves and a cup of oil to a non-aluminum saucepan and warm at low heat for about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let it sit for an hour to infuse. Filter out the leaves and store in a clean, dry bottle with a tight seal. The infused oil should last a couple of months.

TRENDING: ROSEMARY GIN FIZZ

Over the last couple of years, rosemary has been turning up in drinks and popsicles. As a beverage ingredient, rosemary adds depth. With high temps, San Antonio’s late summer is a great time to enjoy a refreshing rosemary gin fizz cocktail and beat the heat.

To make your own, first make a rosemary simple syrup. Boil half a cup of water and half a cup of sugar together, stirring until the sugar is dissolved, then remove from heat. Add a rosemary sprig and steep for an hour. After the syrup is cool, remove the sprig of rosemary.

To make the Gin Fizz, mix ¼ cup of gin, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice and 1 tablespoon of the rosemary simple syrup in a shaker with ice. Strain into a glass with ice and add club soda. Garnish with a lemon slice and a rosemary sprig.

To make a pitcher, multiply ingredient quantities listed above by the number of servings. Add the lemon juice, gin and simple syrup to a pitcher, and reserve the ice and club soda to pour directly into each glass. Enjoy! ~ Jillian Verner

La Bonne Vie Ranch, located just a short drive from downtown Fredericksburg, boasts acres of unspoiled pastoral views. With grape vineyards, a tranquil stream, and luxury facilities to spoil you and your guests.

www.LABONNEVIERANCH.com 1827 Pfiester Road ‡ Fredericksburg TX 78624 ‡ info@labonnevieranch.com ‡ 210-651-2506

ediblesanantonio.com

11

little bites

(Photo Courtesy)

H

H-E-B’S DIGITAL INITIATIVE

-E-B once again made the National Retail Federation list of the top 100 retailers in the country, a testimony to the strength of the privately held company. With just 333 stores and a regional, mostly Texas presence, H-E-B ranks 20th in the 2019 list with $24.02 billion in sales – alongside national businesses like Apple and Walmart.

Perhaps it’s because H-E-B knows their customers so well. From supporting local business with their annual “Quest for Texas Best” program to the agility with which they innovate and launch new ideas, customer loyalty soars at H-E-B. And now the company is making an even bigger investment in technology.

San Antonio’s local grocer recently revealed plans to build a state-ofthe-art technology center downtown at H-E-B’s headquarters, known as the Arsenal. They opened their first tech hub in June of this year in East Austin, where Favor, the Austin-based delivery app the company acquired, is headquartered.

San Antonio-based Lake Flato Architects will design the new 150,000-suare-foot tech facility, a five-story building which will boast modern amenities and cutting-edge features while incorporating design elements found throughout the Arsenal campus.

Construction will start by summer 2020 and H-E-B expects the building to be ready by summer 2022. According to a press release, the new tech hub will create enough space for H-E-B to add about 500 new jobs and relocate existing digital team members from other locations in the city to house its digital teams closer together.

Companywide, there are already more than 5,500 e-commerce partners who are part of the retailer’s H-E-B Curbside and Home Delivery teams.

Like the facility in Austin, the new workspace will offer a variety of dynamic work areas spread throughout the floor plan, including open 12

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

collaboration areas, individual workspaces and meeting rooms equipped with advanced technology and video conferencing capabilities.

“The San Antonio tech center will become part of the new front door to our Arsenal campus, just as H-E-B Digital is creating a new front door for our customers online and via mobile shopping experiences,” H-E-B Chief Digital Officer Jag Bath explained in a statement.

As the brick-and-mortar company adds technological expertise and establishes itself as a tech leader in Texas, it will also invest in the city and state and grow its overall workforce. H-E-B President Craig Boyan explained the company is “committed to hiring more people, adding the necessary skills to become both a better tech company and even stronger brick-and-mortar retailer.”

Mayor Ron Nirenberg applauds H-E-B’s vision and commitment.

“H-E-B’s service to customers, commitment to community and drive for innovation are why they are so much more than a store, and why the City of San Antonio is honored and proud of this incredible growth of 500 highly-skilled jobs,” he said.

Bexar County Judge Nelson Wolff agrees.

“The H-E-B tech center employing 1,000 people will be a quantum step in making San Antonio a center for technology,” the judge added.

Along with the acquisition of Favor, H-E-B continues to expand other e-commerce offerings such as H-E-B Curbside and H-E-B Home Delivery, expected to be at more than 200 locations by year’s end, and H-E-B Go, a mobile solution that allows people to scan and pay for their items with their phones.

H-E-B Digital is actively hiring across all areas of expertise, including product management, product design and software engineering.

Visit Careers.HEB.com/Careers/tech to learn about current and upcoming employment opportunities.

little bites

LATIN AMERICAN CUISINE FOODIE FESTIVAL

H

ere’s everything you need to know to celebrate Oaxaca’s dynamic cuisine during the 2019 Latin American Cuisine Festival, Arriba Mexico!, at the Culinary Institute of America-San Antonio (CIA). From boot camp-style classes to a specially curated dinner, there are several remarkable opportunities to delight in the vibrant flavors and rich culture of Mexico and learn how to create some of the country’s most iconic dishes from professional chefs and scholars.

THE DINNER

A traditional highlight of the CIA’s annual Latin American Foods Conference is the annual Arriba Mexico! Celebratory Dinner, this year curated to showcase Oaxaca’s cuisine on Oct. 18 at SAVOR at the Pearl.

Chef Sofia Sada and CIA’s advanced culinary students will present the four-course dinner and highlight Oaxaca’s staple ingredients including corn, beans, cacao, the region’s distinctive chiles and agave throughout the evening. Reservations are recommended for this culinary journey to discover Oaxaca’s rich culture and culinary heritage. Visit SavorCIA. com or call (210) 554-6484 for information and reservations.

BOOT CAMP FOR FOODIES

On Friday and Saturday, Oct. 18 and 19 from 8 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., discover great ideas for new hors d’oeuvres and appetizers that you can make at home. You’ll learn how to broaden your repertoire of first courses with the vibrant flavors and colors of Mexico and the skills and recipes taught in this 2-day Arriba Mexico! Appetizers and Hors d’oeuvre course. With a focus on corn, the quintessential ingredient in Mexican cuisine, explore the intricacies of traditional small bites including tortillas, tamales, tacos and salsas. From complex, sophisticated dishes to deliciously informal antojitos, this distinctive fare will certainly add culinary excitement to your menus.

THE CLASSES

On Saturday, Oct .19, choose from several classes celebrating different aspects of Mexican cuisine, including a mole demonstration and a wine tasting class. To see all the offerings and to register, visit bit.ly/ARRIBA2019.

Love sweets? Attend the Arriba Mexico! Desserts of Mexico class to learn and practice mixing methods and the best techniques to prepare traditional and trendy desserts including custard, mousse and more. Explore Mexican-inspired desserts, learn plating and presentation methods using sauces and garnishes and be ready to create beautiful and impressive desserts every time.

Local grill kings rejoice! The Arriba Mexico! Mexico’s Live Fire Grill will definitely take your skills to the next level in this class devoted to Mexico’s live fire favorites. Learn about the grilling tools and techniques used to prepare some of Mexico’s most iconic dishes like barbacoa, guajillo grilled shrimp and carne asada.

In the Arriba Mexico! Vibrant Dishes Mexico class, perfect your techniques and expand your recipe collection as you learn to make such favorites as gorditas, tamales, chilaquiles, esquites and other bold flavored dishes that make up Mexican cuisine.

Or choose Arriba Mexico! South of the Border: Mexican Favorites, which covers Mexican cuisine and the authentic cooking techniques and regional flavor profiles of our neighbor to the south.

Learn how to cook with chiles and other indigenous ingredients while preparing a menu that includes such items as enchiladas, gorditas, Veracruz-style blue crab turnovers, roasted tomato and chipotle salsa, and Oaxacan masa torpedos.

To learn more, visit CIAfoodies.com/latin-american-cuisine-summit. To see all the offerings and to register, visit bit.ly/ARRIBA2019.

ediblesanantonio.com

13

little bites

“FRANKLY” DELICIOUS

A

ustin’s first organic vodka, made from USDA-certified organic, non-GMO and gluten free ingredients, recently launched five flavors across Texas and Arizona.

According to the makers, Frankly Organic Vodka, bottled and distilled in Austin, is handcrafted from organic sweet corn and organic fruits, roots and botanicals harvested without the use of synthetic pesticides. Distilled five times and filtered twice in small batches, it truly does deliver an exceptionally clean taste with a smooth sweetness on the palate. The company lists all ingredients on the label so patrons know exactly what they’re drinking.

Kristen Risk, Frankly Organic Vodka co-founder and VP of Marketing Communications, explained the rationale.

“To live Frankly is to live honestly,” she said. “Consumers today appreciate transparency and so do we. Most consumers are unaware of the ingredients in their spirits, and therefore it was imperative to list ours on the label. We are passionate about conscious living and proud of the organic ingredients in our bottles.”

FOUR UNIQUE FLAVORS

Frankly’s flavor profiles are interesting and taste good. Enjoy layers of functional ingredients like turmeric root, maca root, Ceylon cinnamon, wild cherry bark, and ginger root. For now, they offer the straight vodka and four flavors including “Strawberry” with lemon, coconut water, wild cherry bark and turmeric root, “Apple” with ginger root and a kick of cayenne pepper, “Grapefruit” made with ruby red grapefruits, Ceylon cinnamon and maca root and the “Pomegranate” with lemon, ginger, turmeric and maca root. The flavored offerings are lower proof at 30 percent ABV, while the original (unflavored) vodka is 40 percent. Made without refined sugars, artificial colors or flavors, the locally crafted vodka is a great addition to any home bar.

“Frankly Organic Vodka is uniquely positioned to become the lifestyle spirits brand in this demographic of conscious consumers that demand real organic ingredients,” CEO and co-founder Philip Risk added.

14

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

THE CARROT CORDIAL Each vodka is a great mixer – we chose this particular company recipe to take you from late summer into autumn.

INGREDIENTS 1½ oz Frankly Apple Ginger Vodka ¾ oz fresh lime juice ¾ oz Monin Carrot Puree ½ oz Reàl Coconut Syrup ½ oz Reàl Ginger Syrup 2 oz soda water Garnishes – Carrot strip, lime wheel and mint DIRECTIONS Add vodka, lime juice, carrot puree, coconut syrup, ginger syrup and ice to a cocktail shaker and shake for about 10 seconds. Strain into a Collins glass over fresh ice and top with soda water. Garnish and enjoy!

WINNING AWARDS And we aren’t the only ones impressed with Frankly Organic Vodka’s original flavors. The company' already won three medals at the prestigious 2018 San Francisco World Spirits Competition and four at the 2018 New York World Wine and Spirits Competition. Besides crafting award-winning distilled vodka, Frankly also helps support local no-kill animal shelters and animal cruelty advocacy organizations by donating one percent of their revenue.

Learn more about Frankly Organic Vodka at www.franklyvodka.com.

Please call 210-365-8046 or email fred@ediblesanantonio.com

MARKETPLACE

edible SAN ANTONIO

2019 FARMERS AND ARTISANS MARKET FRESH. LOCAL. DELICIOUS. 10 AM - 2 PM EVERY THIRD SATURDAY and Zumba @ 9 AM at the YMCA

-----

--------------- FRESH. LOCAL. DELICIOUS. --------------

MISSION MARQUEE PLAZA 3100 Roosevelt Ave. www.MissionMarquee.com

At Pearl

in San Antonio

River Whey Summer Cheeses

Dip into Summer Flavors!

Give the gift of Edible

Garden Crisp

Please call

Midsummer Surprise

210-365-8046

Organic Arugula and Celery Seed Sea Salt Tahitian Vanilla Sea Salt and Fresh Ginger

Check Out Our Class Schedule at . . .

www.riverwheycreamery.com

or email fred@ediblesanantonio.com

little bites

WORKING IN A WOMEN’S WORLD

P

utting a decorated cake back in the oven is probably For many years, many very talented women have earned their the craziest idea ever. But in the 17th century, it was place at the top of the cake decorating world. And for some time, common practice to ice a cake and return it to the oven males starting out in this industry have faced challenges in the bake as the final step, even though the process rendered it shop like those faced by women for centuries in many other indusinedible. We’ve come a long way since then – we don’t tries. Customers tend to trust women more to decorate their cakes warm up our works of art anymore. Decorated cakes have evolved and in retail situations, seem to consistently assume that women into confectionery works of art that we love to eat and the industry will do a better job. They prefer to wait for the next woman availis thriving. able to do the job, even when it comes to something as simple as Decorated cakes, specifically wedding cakes, have been around writing “Happy Birthday.” for centuries. The more traditional, over the top, intricately decoAs men, we’ve learned it can be difficult to work in a female-domrated wedding cake was introduced to the world at Queen Victoinated world, an insight that gives us both empathy for women who ria’s wedding around 1840. Victorian epoch aside, white cake was work in male-dominated industries and the recognition that male a symbol of wealth rather than purity. The more refined the sugar, bakers are likely to encounter similar subtle challenges in the baking the more expensive the cake was to create. The work to handmake industry. Men do have to work harder to prove they have the skills, these cakes was extensive and a triumph for the visual arts, but these imagination and dexterity to make something pretty and earn the showstoppers were mostly inedible. respect they seek. Cake decorating is still an art form, an industry As far back as ancient Egyptian times, males dominated in the unto itself, but one where we hope both genders can share the spotbakery – another early baking fact that would evolve in modern light. times. In today’s indusEven today, “delicate” try that trend still exor “pretty” may not be ists – you can visit the words typically associated local panaderia and see with men, but the terms men baking the artisan are often synonymous breads. But on the decowith cake decorating. We rative side of the baking hope as we progress in our spectrum, women reign. chosen careers not to be Some may argue pre-judged and look formen still have great inward to being evaluated fluence in the industry, on the results of our work. citing famous male cake Spending hours working decorators such as Duff on every detail of a wedGoldman and Buddy ding cake is a gratifying Valastro, the Cake Boss. experience, and we rarely While both are great at notice how long we’ve been their craft, the numbers at it, whether working as a don’t lie. According to team or individually. The DataUSA, in the rebest part? Seeing a bride al-world trenches of the and groom on their special day-to-day retail baking day, without a worry in the industry, there are curworld, enjoying the prerently 140,000 female sentation of their cake and Pop Art: Culinary Institute of America-San Antonio Pastry and Baking students Moises Cobox workers to just 90,800 that first delicious slice. and Pasquale Loera display a cake they recently designed and decorated together. male workers. ~ Moises Cobox and Pasquale (Photo by Arleen Pedroza) Loera 16

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

little bites

(Photo courtesy)

I

FUNDING THE FARM

t’s now easier for farmers to navigate resources available from the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA). The department just launched a new online tool to help farmers and ranchers quickly find info about USDA farm loans. The Farm Loan Discovery Tool is the newest feature on farmers.gov, the department’s self-service website for farmers.

“Access to credit is critical in the agriculture industry, especially for new farmers,” Under Secretary for Farm Production and Conservation Bill Northey said. “This new interactive tool can help farmers find information on USDA farm loans within minutes. We are working to improve our customer service, and part of our solution is through improving how farmers can work with us online.”

USDA’s Farm Service Agency (FSA) offers a variety of loan options to help farmers finance their operations. From buying land to financing the purchase of equipment, FSA loans can help. Through the 2018 Farm Bill, FSA was able to raise limits for several loan products.

The USDA conducted field research in eight states, gathering input from farmers and FSA farm loan staff to better understand their needs and challenges.

“We received suggestions from both farmers and our staff on how to improve the farm loan process, and we wanted to harness this opportunity to be more efficient and effective,” Mr. Northey explained. “This feature is one step in our efforts.”

HOW IT WORKS

Farmers looking for financing options to operate a farm or buy land answer a few simple questions about what they are looking to fund and how much money they need to borrow. Based on those answers, farmers are matched to information about farm loans best suited to their specif-

ic needs, including loan application and additional resources.

Application quick guides outline what to expect from preparing an application to receiving a loan decision. Four different guides cover loans for individuals, entities, youth and microloans, with general eligibility requirements and lists of required forms and documentation for each type of loan. The online guides will also help farmers prepare for their first USDA service center visit with a loan officer.

Find the Farm Loan Discovery Tool by visiting farmers.gov/ fund and clicking the “Start” button. Follow prompts and answer five simple questions to get loan information applicable to your agricultural operation. The tool is built to run on any modern browser like Chrome, Edge, Firefox or Safari, and is fully functional on mobile devices. It will not work in Internet Explorer.

FARMERS.GOV

In 2018, the USDA unveiled farmers.gov, a dynamic, mobile-friendly public website and authenticated portal where farmers can apply for programs, process transactions and manage accounts.

The Farm Loan Discovery Tool is just one of many resources on farmers.gov to connect farmers to information that can help their operations. Earlier this year, USDA launched My Financial Information, which enables farmers to view their loan information, history, payments and alerts by logging into the website.

USDA’s farmers.gov was built for farmers, by farmers. Besides the interactive farm loan features, the site also offers a Disaster Assistance Discovery Tool. Visit farmers.gov/recover/disaster-assistance-tool#step-1 to find disaster assistance programs to help recover from natural disasters. To learn more or to locate your USDA Service Center, visit farmers.gov. ediblesanantonio.com

17

2019

Tour de Las Misiones Bike Ride - Walk - Run

Saturday, September 7 - 8 a.m.

Mission Park Pavilion - 6030 Padre Dr.

Schedule of Events Wednesday, September 4

Friday, September 6

Press Conference U.S. Mint Coin Forum

Music and Movie Under the Stars

Saturday, September 7

Thursday, September 5

America the Beau�ful Quarters Program Mesa at the Missions: A Culinary Crossroads

Tour de Las Misiones Bike Ride-Walk-Run Mission Pachanga Rehabarama

Sunday, September 8

El Camino de San Antonio: Caring for Crea�on Mass Green Walk to Mission San Juan

For full event details, visit www.WorldHeritageFes�val.org 18

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

little bites

Culinary art shines at the World Food Championships (Photo courtesy Texas Super Chef Throwdown Series)

T

FOOD SPORT!

his year, the road to the World Food Championships goes through Texas.

It will travel south of San Antonio through the Texas Super Chef Throwdown Series qualifier in Port Aransas from Sept. 18 to 21, then head toward the grand finale in Dallas from Oct. 16 through Oct. 20 where more than 500 teams comprised of chefs, home cooks and pro-traveling teams from around the globe will compete.

Winners will share the largest prize purse in Food Sport, which includes the $100,000 grand prize at the event’s Final Table.

PORT A QUALIFIER

The Port Aransas/Mustang Island Tourism Bureau & Chamber of Commerce still has tickets available for the 2019 Port A Texas Super Chef Throwdown Series, a sanctioned qualifying competition for the final event in Dallas. Ticket packages begin at $20.

The Texas Super Chef Throwdown Series brings 30 chefs from around the state to compete over three nights, from Sept. 18 to Sept.

20, at six different restaurants in Port Aransas. The event culminates in the Final Throwdown from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on September 21 at the Palmilla Beach Resort.

A different ingredient will be featured each night at two venues starting at 5 p.m. Chefs will be challenged to create dishes that focus on beef (land), fish or shellfish (sea) and poultry (air). A fourth category, vegetarian (garden), will be part of the overall competition.

This is the second year in a row Port Aransas will host this important qualifier for the final event in Dallas.

“Our first year of the Port A Texas Super Chef Throwdown Series exceeded our expectations on many levels, including attendance and creating national awareness for Port A as a foodie destination,” President and CEO of the Port Aransas/Mustang Island Tourism Bureau & Chamber of Commerce Jeff Hentz explained.

“We already have big demand from both consumers planning to attend our event and from top chefs looking to compete in our series.”

Texas is now the first state franchise of the World Food Championships (WFC), a culinary celebration and the largest competition in “food sport.” The contest has served as a springboard for many culinarians and catapulted them to fame as they aspire to gain a foothold on nationally broadcast food TV shows.

CULINARY GETAWAY

Planning your trip is easy. The Port Aransas/Mustang Island Tourism Bureau & Chamber of Commerce is a great resource to plan a getaway to experience this culinary event, the area’s 18 miles of wide, sandy beaches, world class watersport activities, sport fishing, kayaking, nature preserves, golf and more. For listings of island accommodations, restaurants, shopping and activities, visit visitportaransas.com. For information and tickets for the Texas Super Chef Throwdown Series, visit texassuperchefs.com. ediblesanantonio.com

19

news you can use

Maverick Whiskey bottles on display at the new distillery. (Photo by Angela Covo)

MAVERICK WHISKEY OPEN

T

he long-awaited Maverick Whiskey Distillery recently opened in the historic renovated Lockwood National Bank downtown. And the magic is in the details – the 15,000-square-foot bank, purchased by Ken and Amy Maverick in 2017, sits on the site of the original 19th century Maverick family homestead on Broadway, overlooking Travis Park to the west, which was once the peach orchard on the estate.

For the Mavericks, the new distillery is a dream come true that includes opening the three-story distillery, brewery, restaurant bar and private event space on July 23, which also happened to be Dr. Maverick’s great-great-great-grandfather Samuel Augustus Maverick’s birthday (1803-1870). After experimenting with whiskey homebrews for years, Dr. Maverick’s passion project gave rise to Maverick Whiskey, the new grain-to-glass distillery and brewery

– crafting and aging the spirits in the former bank vault below the first floor of the building. They are already producing Alamo Whiskey, a grain forward whiskey, the Light Whiskey and Texas Dry Gin, a traditional dry gin with a Texas twist, crafted using locally sourced ingredients. They are already booking private parties.

Maverick Whiskey offers guided tours of the distillery and the historical Lockwood Bank Tuesday through Saturday from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. ($20). Restaurant and bar hours are 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday. Whiskey, gin, beer growlers and kegs are available for purchase at the distillery during retail hours, Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Spirits are priced from $40 to $55, and 32-oz cans of beer are $18. For updates and more information, visit maverickwhiskey.com.

SWIM AT YOUR OWN RISK ...

Chisme, the eclectic Mexican food restaurant on the N. St. Mary’s strip, is about to morph into something new.

The restaurant will turn into a drinks only nightly bar spot but will still host a Happy Hour with small plates.

The new bar, still run and managed by Empty Stomach Group, will be called Midnight Swim. The best part?

Chisme will still serve brunch every weekend in the same space!

20

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

CHEF COOPERATIVES DEMOS AT PEARL FARMERS MARKET

K

eep an eye out for the new, deep red tent at the Pearl Farmers Market, foodies! On Sundays, the Chef Cooperatives will host a chef demo tent sharing great recipes using produce and ingredients from Pearl Farmers Market vendors, providing everyone with information, inspiration and free samples.

Chef Stephen Paprocki, president of the Chef Cooperatives, explained the goal is to include as many local pros as possible.

“We want to welcome everyone to participate. Any chef, sous, personal chef who is interested should reach out to share how they use ingredients from the farmers market and get on the schedule,” he said.

To participate in the new chef demo tent, email chefcooperatives@gmail.com. Look for more about this project in the next issue!

SAN ANTONIO FOOD BANK TURKEY TROT

R Learn how to make ricotta and other cheeses at home. (Photo by Melanie Dompierre)

MAKE YOUR OWN CHEESE

L

earn how to make your own whole milk ricotta, fromage blanc and an acid-coagulated cheese at River Whey Creamery’s Hands-On Cheesemaking class at noon on Sunday, Sept. 22.

The Creamery’s owner and founder, artisan cheesemaker Susan Rigg, will guide you through the principles of cheesemaking in this two-anda-half-hour class. This is a fabulous opportunity to learn from Chef Rigg, whose experience and education as a cheesemaker is the most extensive in our region, bar none. Expect to learn about and discuss methods, equipment and even a little cheese science. Best part: these cheeses can easily be made in your own kitchen at home!

Be aware this class is limited to just ten people to ensure a great experience. Considered River Whey Creamery’s most popular class, it typically sells out quickly, so don’t wait to reserve your spot. The class includes a creamery tour and tasting of the full range of River Whey Creamery cheeses, which are usually available for purchase after class.

Note: every Friday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., the Creamery is open to the public. Visit riverwheycreamery.com to learn more and to purchase tickets for the class.

un before you eat this year at the San Antonio Food Bank’s Turkey Trot, the annual 5K run/ walk presented by H-E-B on Thanksgiving morning.

This family- and pet-friendly run is one of the few 5Ks that follows a route through the King William District and downtown San Antonio. The event is designed as an event for the whole family, including pets – and the best part? Every registration provides a turkey dinner to a family in need. This year, the Turkey Trot takes place on Thursday, November 28. Registration opens at 6:30 a.m. and the race begins promptly at 8:30 a.m. Save a little money and help the San Antonio Food Bank get those turkey dinners ready by signing up as early as possible! Through October 31, the registration fee for a single runner is $30 and there’s a 20 percent group discount for signing up as a group of five or more. The price goes up to $35 per runner from Nov.1 to Nov. 26, and you can also sign up the day of the event for $40. Kids 11 and under run for free (but they don’t get a T-shirt.) ediblesanantonio.com

21

edible film

Chefs Anne Ng, Jeremy Mandrell and Selina Gomzalez of Bakery Lorraine created this masterpiece to celebrate SAFILM-San Antonio Film Festival’s 25th Anniversary.

(Photo by Jose Bañuelos)

22

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

L-R Filmmaker Susan Goursaud, SAFILM producer Susan Ranjel, 2019 SAFILM Legacy winner Jackie Earle Haley, 2019 SAFILM Maverick winner Eric Alejandro, 2019 SAFILM Marcia Nasatir winner Cybill Shepherd and SAFILM Executive Director Adam Rocha enjoy the first cut of the BL cake. (Photo courtesy)

SAFILM DEBUTS FOOD FILM FEST

T

BY ANGELA COVO AND FREDERIC COVO

he 2019 SAFILM-San Antonio Film Festival was a celebration of independent film at the Tobin Center for the Performing Arts and for the first time, at the Culinary Institute of America-San Antonio (CIA). The successful festival has been bringing cinematic treasures to San Antonio since 1994, marking its 25th anniversary.

“We’ve been doing this for 25 years, and we are as excited now as when we first started,” SAFILM Executive Director Adam Rocha said. “Not only did we reach the 25-year milestone, it was a great year of firsts for our film festival.”

Indeed, this was the first year that SAFILM issued the Maverick Award, for a filmmaker making great strides in their career, it was also the first time SAFILM issued the Marcia Nasatir Award. The Nasatir Award honors its namesake, a San Antonio native who was the first to break barriers for women in Hollywood – in the executive suite. A third award instituted this year for invited films was the SAFILM Director’s Cut Award.

This year, the award went to Director Alex Wolff for “The Cat and the Moon,” which had its US premiere at SAFILM. “We also debuted the SAFILM-San Antonio Food Film Festival on the first day of the film festival – that project was hosted by the CIA,” Mr. Rocha explained. “It was a special presentation of SAFILM because it allowed us to help the city comply with a promise made in the UNESCO Creative Cities of Gastronomy application.”

That promise, to crosslink two Creative Cities art themes, in this case film and gastronomy, was also a great success.

“We created a new competitive category, food films, and we received quite a few submissions,” he added. “More than enough for a day of screenings, which included two narratives, a long block of short films and the special director’s cut and premiere of “The Roots of Texas Mexican Food.”

The screening room was full for the first narrative film, Jessica Oreck’s “One Man dies a Million Times,” a mostly black and white feature film that told the story of how Russian scientists, facing an apocalypse, created and protected the largest seed bank in the world.

A block of shorts included the winner of SAFILM’s Best Short Film Award, Si Pero No, about a woman furiously chopping vegetables as she contemplates her husband’s infidelity. Other shorts included the work of local filmmaker Michelle Newman, Indian Spices 101, and a piece called Popcorn and Chocolate, which showed how food connects us all.

It was standing room only for filmmakers Adan Medrano and Virginia Diaz Laughlin, who presented the Director’s Cut of an episodic project called “The Roots of Texas Mexican Food.” The film festival allowed for an extensive Q&A with the filmmakers, including Director Anibal Capoano, who skyped in from Uruguay to participate in the festival.

The last feature, “Before the Plate,” showed how a Canadian restaurant was working hard to use local ingredients and work with local farmers.

The SAFILM-San Antonio Food Film Festival, sanctioned by the City of San Antonio UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy team, is set to be a permanent part of the annual film fest.

“We loved programming it and making it a part of our festival,” Mr. Rocha said. “We took notes about how to make the Food Film Fest even better next year – and one thing I can promise. Next year we plan to work with local chefs and make local food a big part of the package.”

Starting in November, the film festival will be accepting entries for next year and we certainly hope to see lots of participation from our local culinary community. To learn more about the festival and get updates, visit SAFILM.com and follow the dream team on Facebook @ safilmfest. ediblesanantonio.com

23

24

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

local tradition

Nick Ivarra,Tiki Captain and Bar Manager of Hot Joy

TEXAS TIKI WEEK SEPTEMBER 24 TO 29

I

BY ANGELA COVO, PHOTOS COURTESY HOT JOY

n Southtown, an eccentric hot spot is capturing the best of modern Tiki culture.

Tiki drinks are an American invention, a fantasy brought to life by Don the Beachcomber in Los Angeles, circa the 1930s. More than a beverage with very specific components – sweet, sour and multiple spirits served in custom glasses – Tiki is a style that covers the gamut, from the special environment and décor to furniture, Tiki totems, edible flowers and those delightful little cocktail parasols.

The “look” heavily borrows from Polynesian Tiki culture (hence the name), while the drinks probably borrow more from Caribbean “punch” and, maybe a little, from tropical drinks. Whatever the source for the inspiration, Tiki bars and beverages were all the rage in the 30s and 40s, when Victor Bergeron started Trader Vic’s. The phenomenon carried through to the 70s, swooned, and made a majestic comeback in the late 80s.

Today, Tiki bar culture continues to thrive and it’s so popular that in Texas we devote an entire week to the iconic cocktails. Our resident Tiki master from Hot Joy, Nick Ivarra, shares a little about what we can expect in Austin and SA during this year’s Texas Tiki Week, from Sept. 24 to Sept. 29.

SA’S TIKI TREASURE

Mr. Ivarra, who is also a musician, started bartending at Hot Joy about 5 years ago and has been running the Tiki-inspired bar for almost 3 years.

“I ended up becoming slightly obsessive over Tiki and bartending,” he explained. “There’s much more to tending bar and operating a program like Tiki than people think. I really enjoy being creative (and I think Tiki is one of the hardest concepts out there) – I’ve always enjoyed taking care of people and this is an awesome way for me to do so.” ediblesanantonio.com

25

Octopus Bowl for Four

Nightwalker

His fascination with Tiki started when the musician-turned-Tiki-Master was touring with his band in Portland, Oregon.

“We experienced one of the top Tiki bars in the nation, Hale Pele, and maaaan, was it awesome. It literally changed my life and vision of what kind of bar I wanted to work in,” he shared. “The experience, the ambiance, the craft – it was top notch. And I haven’t even begun to talk about the cocktails.”

His first genuine Tiki cocktail was a punch bowl called Volcano Bowl.

“We all shared it and I immediately felt right. Everything about that moment made me realize that Tiki, rum, escapism, is exactly what I wanted to do,” he added.

Taking over the beverage program at Hot Joy was his ticket to sharing the Tiki experience in San Antonio.

“I knew that this place could be a tropical/Tiki/rum bar. It made sense.

I started reading, researching, and more importantly, going to other Tiki bars around the nation,” Mr. Ivarra said. “I fell even more in love with the idea of escapism and the environment it creates.”

The Hot Joy program is a Tiki lover’s dream – every drop of citrus juice is squeezed fresh daily. They meticulously make their own syrups and offer an extensive craft cocktail list with not one, but two cocktail menus. One focuses on Mr. Ivarra’s original creations and the other pays homage to the original Tiki classics invented by Don the Beachcomber and Trader Vic. A perfect plan for a venue with more than 200 bottles of rum in house.

Even Chef John Philpot’s flavorful and adventurous Korean menu is Tiki – with spicy, salty and rich flavor profiles that perfectly match the fruity, refreshing cocktails.

Mr. Ivarra’s goal is to educate every guest and create extraordinary experiences for anyone who ventures into Hot Joy. Not only does he make sure the popular Southtown spot offers monthly rum tastings, parties and happy hours, he is a devoted disciple of Texas Tiki Week, and so far, the only bar in San Antonio with Tiki Week plans.

CONFIRMED! HOT JOY TIKI EVENT

On Sept. 27, Mr. Ivarra will take Texas Tiki Week in San Antonio to the next level. The Hot Joy event will be a Tiki takeover from another Tiki bar with all the fixings. Still in the works, a possible Tiki “Monterey Pop-up,” which is still too early to confirm, will have a serious musical component, as well.

26

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

When it comes to Texas Tiki week, Austin gets all the credit.

(Yes, I rsaid that.)

The Austin chapter of the United States Bartenders’ Guild launched Texas Tiki Week in 2012 as a week-long celebration of Tiki cocktails and culture. Bars, restaurants and brands unite for a week to celebrate Tiki Culture with educational, social and philanthropic events. Most Texas Tiki Week events take place in Austin with satellite events in other cities. Expect seminars, pop-ups featuring talented guest bartenders, the “Suffering Bastard” bus tour, the Tiki Village and Pig Roast Brunch and finally, the Sunday Afternoon Tiki Boat Cruise.

In that spirit, Mr. Ivarra will be featured at two Tiki pop-ups in Austin in September. The first, a “pre-Tiki” event at Nickel City, date TBA. The second event is on Sept. 28 in Austin, venue TBA. In the meantime, he’s just happy to get to do what he wants to do at Hot Joy, where he said things “sometimes can get a little crazy, but that’s the beauty of it all.”

“I’m not the inventor of Tiki drinks nor do I think I’m much of a pioneer, I just really enjoy making a fresh product that has elaborate fun garnishes,” Mr. Ivarra said. “There’s something so gratifying about taking a second or two more to make sure every detail in that cocktail is perfect. That’s my ode to the fathers of Tiki and the pioneers working on restoring Tiki and Tiki culture.”

Ticket sales for Texas Tiki Week open on Sept. 4, and you can find all the info and updates at TexasTikiWeek.com. Follow Hot Joy on Facebook for Texas Tiki Week updates, too.

TROPICAL DEPRESSION No. 3

By Nick Ivarra, Hot Joy

INGREDIENTS ½ oz rich honey syrup ¼ oz passion fruit syrup ¾ oz orange juice ¾ oz lime juice ¾ oz aged Jamaican rum ¾ oz Pisco ½ oz gin ¼ oz Desert Door Sotol 5-7 dashes of Peychaud’s Bitters

DIRECTIONS Add syrups, juices and alcohol (not the bitters) to cocktail shaker tin with crushed ice. Quick soft shake for 5 seconds. Dirty dump into hurricane glass and top with crushed ice. Garnish with a few dashes of Peychaud’s Bitters, mint bouquet, orange moon and cocktail umbrella.

Enjoy!

To make rich honey syrup, add 1 cup of honey to ½ cup of water in a saucepan over medium heat and stir until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat, cool to room temp, pour into a clean mason jar and cover. It’ll keep for a couple of weeks in the fridge. Remember to give it a little shake before using.

(Photo courtesy Empty Stomach Group at Hot Joy)

ediblesanantonio.com

27

Enjoy small plates and more at Chef Lisa Astorga Watel’s Southtown restaurant, Bite.

(Photo by Jessica Giesey)

THE LOCAL DINING GUIDE

Welcome to our newest section, the Edible San Antonio Local Dining Guide.

Special thanks to our growing list of sponsors, all local and independently owned establishments that support Edible SA’s mission. Restaurants are selected for their commitment to using local and seasonal ingredients as much as possible and for their partnerships with local farmers and food artisans. Enjoy!

CREATIVE COCKTAILS DELICIOUS FARE FROM AROUND THE WORLD

BY CHEF LISA ASTORGA WATEL HAPPY HOUR | TUE–FRI 5-7 PM DINNER | TUE–THU 5-10 PM | FRI–SAT 5-11 PM BRUNCH | SAT 11-2 PM | SUN 11-3 PM

HAPPY HOUR | MON–FRI 4-6 PM DINNER DAILY AT 4 PM | SUNDAY BRUNCH 11-2 PM

1012 S Presa St, SATX 78210 210.532.2551 | biterestaurantsa.com

2720 McCullough Ave, SATX 78212 210.320.2261 | barbarosanantonio.com

6106 Broadway, SATX 78209 210.245.8156 | bistr09.com

AT BIG TEX

PATIO BAR & CLUB

MEXICO INSPIRED BURGERS MONDAY – THURSDAY 11 AM – 10 PM FRIDAY & SATURDAY 11 AM – 11 PM SUNDAY 11 AM – 8 PM 403 Blue Star, SATX 78204 210.635.0016 | burgerteca.com

28

CLASSIC FRENCH BRASSERIE IN THE HEART OF ALAMO HEIGHTS LED BY CHEF DAMIEN WATEL & CHEF LISA ASTORGA WATEL

NEIGHBORHOOD PIZZA AND CRAFT COCKTAIL BAR LUNCH | DINNER | WEEKEND BRUNCH LATE NIGHT DINING HAPPY HOUR 3 PM TO 6 PM EVERY DAY PIZZA MONDAY | $10 PIZZAS OPEN SEVEN DAYS

edible San Antonio

HAPPY HOUR DAILY 4-8 PM $5 CLASSICS | $4 FROZENS | $3 WELLS | $2 BEERS

FAMILY-OWNED NEIGHBORHOOD RESTAURANT SERVING UP SEASONAL SOUTHERN AND AMERICAN EATS IN A CASUAL SETTING

21+ | NEVER A COVER

LUNCH | TUE–FRI 11:30-2 PM DINNER | TUE–THU 5-9 PM | FRI–SAT 5-10 PM

2410 N St Mary’s St, SATX 78212 210.885.3925 | rumblesatx.com

2195 NW Military Hwy, SATX 78213 210.503.5121 | clementine-sa.com

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

BEYOND JUST CAJUN OR CREOLE THERE’S MORE TO NEW ORLEANS CUISINE WELCOME TO THE COOKHOUSE OPEN TUE–SAT 5-10 PM HAPPY HOUR TUE–FRI 5-7 PM RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED LAISSEZ LES BON TEMPS ROULER!

BEST FRENCH RESTAURANT 2017 & 2018 ASIAN FUSION | HAPPY HOUR | TAPAS & PIZZA BAR LOCALLY OWNED | LOCALLY SOURCED CATERING

AUTHENTIC EUROPEAN RESTAURANT DUCK | PORK | GOULASH | SCHNITZELS | APPLE STRUDEL CZECH WINES | PILSNER URQUELL BEER KOLACHE EGGS BENEDICT BREAKFAST AND LUNCH DAILY DINNER WEDNESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY

720 E Mistletoe Ave, SATX 78212 210.320.8211 | cookhouserestaurant.com

14439 NW Military Hwy #100, SATX 78231 210.888.1500 | fredericksbistro.com

518 River Road, Boerne TX 78006 830.331.1368 | littlegretel.com

RAMEN NOODLE SHOP AND IZAKAYA

Old World Methods, Extraordinary Results Locally Sourced, Sustainably Prepared

MONDAY – THURSDAY 11 AM-10 PM FRIDAY 11 AM-11 PM SATURDAY 12 PM-11 PM

Dinner | Tue–Thur 5:30-9 PM | Fri–Sat 5:30-10 PM Reservations Recommended

152 E Pecan St #102, SATX 78205 210.444.0702 | kimurasa.com

152 E Pecan St #100, SATX 78205 210.222.1849 | restaurantgwendolyn.com

SAN ANTONIO’S PREMIER ROOFTOP BAR ROOFTOP OASIS | SOARING CITY VIEWS COFFEE BAR | CRAFT COCKTAILS BREAKFAST | HORS D’OEUVRES OPEN SEVEN DAYS 102 9th St Suite 400, SATX 78215 210.340.9880 | paramourbar.com

eat chinese

SICHUAN HOUSE

GLUTEN FREE | VEGAN KETO-FRIENDLY | AYURVEDIC

赵

四 savor sichuan 川 食在中国味在四川 府

OPEN DAILY 11 AM TO 3 PM BRUNCH SATURDAY & SUNDAY ACROSS FROM THE TOBIN CENTER

AN ACTIVE CLASSROOM AT THE CIA DISCOVER OUR MENU INSPIRED BY GLOBAL CUISINES

DOG-FRIENDLY PATIO | OPEN SEATING

TUESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 5:30 PM – 8 PM

WE ARE EXCITED TO SHARE OUR CULTURE AND HOMETOWN EATS WITH OUR BELOVED SA COMMUNITY COOK-TO-ORDER MENU FOR SHARING SPICY AND NON-SPICY OFFERINGS OPEN SEVEN DAYS | LUNCH AND DINNER

106 Auditorium Circle, SATX 78205 210.802.1860 | pharmtable.com

200 E Grayson St #117, SATX 78215 210.554.6484 | savorcia.com

3505 Wurzbach Rd #102, SATX 78238 210.509.9999 | facebook.com/sichuaneats

Ms. Julie’s beets at Clementine (Photo Courtesy)

ediblesanantonio.com

29

from the garden

MIGHTY MICROGREENS

Amaranth (top) and clover microgreens growing at Freshwater Farms. (Photo courtesy)

B

BY DAVE TERRAZAS

inge watching the third season of Stranger Things creates a sense of nostalgia that recalls images of indoor malls, skateboards, dine-in pizza parlors with rows of huge video games, and salad bars with avant-garde ingredients like alfalfa sprouts.

Don’t get me wrong, I love alfalfa sprouts. But while skateboards are still about the same as they were when I grew up in the 80s, my cell phone can now store a million games. And today’s food scene offers so much more than those little light green tendrils of earthy freshness.

While we sometimes think of it as the granddaddy of today’s microgreens, alfalfa is just a sprout.

But here’s the difference – as told to me by Ms. Heki and Mr. Park, owners and growers at Freshwater Farms who since 2014 have grown over 60 types of seeds and now offer ten signature blends like my favorite, “Pico de Gallo” – sprouts are germinated seeds that are harvested at around six days old. They are like their slightly more mature microgreen counterparts in that they are nutrient dense and generally, sprouts germinate in a bit of water or hydrated media.

In contrast, microgreens are a few days older, having sprouted and reached the cotyledon phase of the plants’ growth cycles, when we begin to see the plants very first “baby” leaves. Chefs tend to favor microgreens for their size and aesthetics (appearance) since each cultivar’s leaves are uniquely expressed. At the San Antonio Botanical Garden, we often use the eye-catching multi-color microgreens, such as red cabbage

30

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

(with their purple stems and deep green leaf tops), the monochromatically crimson “Bull’s Blood” beets, and the wispy, featherlike fennel microgreens.

Not only are they pretty to look at, microgreens also have less cellulose material than their adult forms, rendering them nutritionally dense, extremely flavorful (more so than the adult form) and easier to digest.

Research supports the assertion that pound for pound, microgreens are better nutritionally for us (fiber notwithstanding) than mature fruits.

And those rich, powerful volatile organic compounds (VOCs) present in all foods create the aromas and flavors we enjoy in microgreens, too.

My preference in using micros is to dress them lightly in a bowl with a few drops of olive oil, lemon juice and a pinch of salt, gently tossing them to coat. I then pull them slightly apart and top my dishes with them to make those dishes “extra!” (Back in my day, we would say “radical.”)

Speaking of those red cabbage microgreens, Chef “Kat” Katrina Flores created a fantastic Asian-inspired crab cake for the recent San Antonio Botanical Garden Texas to Table dine-in event, topping them with those purple and green beauties. Folding in the flavors of lime, soy, wasabi, and sesame oil, these golden-brown beauties got an extra kick from a spicy wasabi mayo drizzle, and a heap of that gorgeous, delicious garnish.

Keep up with all the terrific foodie programming at the garden at www.SABOT.org. To learn more about the microgreens, visit www.freshwaterfarmsllc.farm.

GUIDE TO SAN ANTONIO FARMERS MARKETS MOBILE MARKET

Alamo Ranch Farmers Market 210-446-0099 www.alamoranchfarm.market Call or visit website for information

MONDAY

SA Food Bank Farmers Market Palo Alto College 1400 W. Villaret Blvd 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

4th Mon of month (Except May & Aug)

TUESDAY

SA Food Bank Farmers Market Main Plaza 115 Main Avenue 10 a.m. – 1 p.m.

San Antonio Farmers Market Olmos Basin 100 Jackson Keller Road 8 a.m – 1 p.m.

WEDNESDAY

1905 Farmers Market Kendall County Fairgrounds 1307 River Road Boerne, TX 3 p.m. – 7 p.m.

Opening day – Sep 4 San Antonio Farmers Market Leon Valley Community Center 6427 Evers Road 8 a.m. – 1 p.m.

THURSDAY

4 City Farmers Market Journey Fellowship Church 16847 IH-35 N Selma, TX 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Cibolo Grange Farmers and Artisans Market 413 N. Main Street Cibolo, TX 3 p.m. – 7 p.m.

Fredericksburg Farmers Market Marktplatz 126 W. Main Street Fredericksburg, TX 4 p.m. – 7 p.m.

Closing day – Aug 22 Pearl Night Market Pearl Brewery 312 Pearl Parkway 4 p.m. – 8 p.m.

1st Thurs of month

FRIDAY

Kerrville Farmers Market Downtown 529 Water Street Kerrville, TX 4 p.m. – 7 p.m.

San Antonio Farmers Market St. Matthews Recreation Center 11121 Wurzbach Road 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

SATURDAY

Backyard Market at Ruben’s 13838 Jones Maltsberger Road 9 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Deerfield Farmers Market 16607 Huebner Road 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Farmers Market at the Cibolo Herff Farm 33 Herff Road Boerne, TX 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Four Seasons Market Huebner Oaks Shopping Center 11745 IH-10 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

San Antonio Farmers Market Olmos Basin 100 Jackson Keller Road 8 a.m. – 1 p.m

Goliad Market Days 231 S. Market Street Goliad, TX 9 a.m. – 4 p.m 2nd Sat of month

Alamo Heights Farmers Market Alamo Quarry Market 255 E. Basse Road 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Legacy Farmers Market 16101 Henderson Pass (Behind the YMCA) 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.

MarketPlace at Old Town Helotes 14391 Riggs Road Helotes, TX 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.

1st Sat of month New Braunfels Farmers Market 186 S. Castell Avenue New Braunfels, TX 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Pearl Farmers Market Pearl Brewery 312 Pearl Parkway 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

SA Food Bank Farmers Market Mission Marquee Plaza 3100 Roosevelt Avenue 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

3rd Sat of month

SUNDAY

Backyard Market at Ruben’s 13838 Jones Maltsberger Road 9 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Legacy Farmers Market 16101 Henderson Pass (Behind the YMCA) 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.

Live Oak Farmers Market 8151 Pat Booker Road (In front of Starbucks) 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

New Braunfels Farmers Market 186 S. Castell Avenue New Braunfels, TX 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Pearl Farmers Market Pearl Brewery 312 Pearl Parkway 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

SA Food Bank Farmers Market San Antonio Food Bank 5200 Enrique M. Barrera Pkwy 10 a.m. – 1 p.m.

4th Sat of month

ediblesanantonio.com

31

edible destination

Fishmongers in Azores

FLAVORS OF THE AZORES STORY AND PHOTOS BY MICHELLE NEWMAN

T

he Azores originated as a result of the 1766 volcanoes in this archipelago, nine of which are still active. Volcanoes aside – if you like fresh seafood, you will love Portugal’s Azores islands.

Conger eel, limpets, octopus, Espada (Scabbard) … specialties abound at the local market, Mercado da Graça, a fixture in the heart of Ponta Delgada since 1848.

In the colorful produce section, the intoxicating sweet scent of pineapples, grown in the island’s rich volcanic soil, permeates the air. Local honey is infused with subtle hints of fennel. Glancing up in the crowded meat market, dozens of different types of sausages dangle high above the meat counters. The Portuguese love their sausage.

Next to the market, don’t miss Príncipe dos Queijos. This gour32

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

met shop is stocked from floor to ceiling with a grand variety of local products that make great edible souvenirs – think teas, aguardente, local wines, aromatic herbs and spices, traditional biscuits, sweet and savory breads, muffins, honey, jams and marmalades, liqueurs, traditional Azorean pastries and cheeses from all the islands.

Azorean cheeses are highly sought after by connoisseurs, who love the semi-soft and cured cheeses with hard shells and buttery interiors. “Happy cows” is a common expression here and lots of black and white Holsteins graze freely in lush green pastures throughout the countryside. Azoreans take great pride in the high quality of their dairy products, which contain no hormones, antibiotics or GMOs. Cheese lovers can also visit Queijo Vaquinha, a cheese factory in the charming seaside village of Cinco Ribeiras on Terceira Island, and watch (and taste) cheese being made. Some of the cheeses are even

made in the shape of doves, symbolizing the Holy Spirit.

While fishing is a dominant industry here, the most traditional meal is Alcatra, the Azores’ version of Beef Bourguignon.

The dish is a specialty at Quinta do Martelo, a rustic farmhouse inn and restaurant located on the outskirts of Angra do Heroismo. The hearty peasant inspired stew is seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, sausage and bits of pork fat, then cooked for hours in a clay vessel, or Alguidar de Alcatra, until the meat is so tender that it falls off of the bone.

Cozido das Furnas, another Azorean favorite, is a specialty from the village of Furnas on São Miguel.

This is more than just a meal – it borders on being a lavish Broadway production. The signature dish is a unique culinary experience, cooked courtesy of Mother Nature. It turns out that the steam and thermal heat on the northeastern shore of Lake Furnas is intense enough to cook a stew! Blood sausage, taro, sweet potatoes, carrots, cabbage, chicken and pork are combined in a pot and heated until the flavors fuse. The aroma is indescribably irresistible.

Cooking Cozido is a daily happening – like watching the sunset on Key West’s Mallory Pier. Locals and tourists flock to the lake, cameras in hand, to watch the culinary action along the lakeshore. Gigantic pots are buried underground, cooked for 6 hours beneath mounds of earth, then dug up and carried away. Much of the haul is loaded onto vans and rushed fresh to local restaurants and hotels. Furnas Lake Villas, with its lush landscaping, is a lovely setting to savor Cozido.

O Forno bakery is probably the most popular spot with locals for the island’s famous Dona AmÊlia cakes. Named in honor of Portugal’s last queen, the sweet treat commemorates her royal visit to Terceira, in 1901.

The bite-size cakes are made with cinnamon and molasses and dusted with powdered sugar – like a Christmas spice cake, without the overpowering flavor of cloves and candied fruit, just a few token raisins are placed in the bottom of each cake.

Plantaçþes de Chå Gorreana, a tea plantation on São Miguel, is Europe’s only commercial tea plantation in the Azores. The family-owned business, founded in 1883, is proud that five generations later it is still going strong. Following the tour, visitors are welcome to stay for a complimentary tea tasting.

Wine lovers will enjoy Brum Winery and Museum (Museu do Vinho) housed in a historic farmhouse in the coastal village of Biscoitos.

After touring the museum’s collection of antique farm and vineyard implements and learning about the area’s wine making history, stay for the wine tasting. Of the six different types of wine here, the best known are the Chico Maria dessert wine and a white Verdelho.

Breakfast typically starts with a big bang at most of the hotels and resorts. Bountiful buffets serve up an array of local fresh fruit, homemade cheeses, sliced meats, and a variety of specialty breads & pastries, along with other breakfast fare. My breakfast favorites are the creamy, rich ricotta-like Queijo Fresco; Bollo Lêvedo - a slightly sweet bread resembling a plump English muffin and Pastel de Nata, a small egg custard tart. But I was thrown off guard one morning at Pousada de São Sebastião, a 16th century fort converted into a charming hotel, overlooking the Bay of Angra. What I thought was another pastry turned out to be a tuna pie with a flaky crust, made with fresh tuna and pungent green olives. It certainly woke up my taste buds!

From verdant volcanic hills to quaint coastal fishing villages, the Azores are full of culinary surprises to delight the senses. It’s worth the trip to sample and savor the flavors of the Azores while soaking in the islands’ natural beauty.

Aromas intoxicate the senses in the market

Local cheese from happy cows

Buried treasure – Stew is cooked in the ground and quickly distributed

proudly printing for san antonio's food industries B_TRXP[ch 5^^Sb } 3T[X <TPc 1TTa FX]T B_XaXcb } ?a^SdRT 2^UUTT CTP B_XRTb } 5Pbc 5^^S 1PZTah 2^]UTRcX^]Tah } ATcPX[

$ ! " ! ! # } PdbcX][PQT[ R^\

ediblesanantonio.com

33

latin roots

White pozole served at a restaurant in Mexico City. (Photo by Leigh Thelmadatter)

POZOLE’S SHOCKING HISTORY

T

BY KATE FERNANDEZ

oday’s pozole is usually made with pork or chicken, but once upon a time, the protein used for this classic dish came from an unexpected and shocking source. The main components included hominy and human meat, and the indigenous people of Mesoamerica, the Aztecs, would eat the stew for ceremonial occasions.

The Aztecs viewed cannibalism as crucial to their culture and their identity – pozole was made as a part of a holy ritual. Only those with high societal status were allowed to consume it.

They believed those who were sacrificed would receive great rewards in the afterlife and those who consumed the flesh, usually just the high priests and emperor, would be united with their gods. Those of lower standing were prohibited from taking part.

The key ingredient, hominy, came from maize grown, harvested and processed from their fields, while the meat came from the bodies of prisoners or volunteers whose hearts were sacrificed to the Aztec gods. When the Spanish arrived, the cannibalistic rituals were banned and a “similar” protein was introduced. Apparently, human meat and pork share similar flavors and textures, which may have helped ease the transition from cannibal to carnivore.

The modern hybrid stew/soup has several styles, none of which contains any taboo meat. People enjoy red, white or green pozole, colors that represent the Mexican flag. Typically served at large family gatherings or holiday celebrations, pozole can be made with pork or chicken, large hominy kernels and depending on the type, red or green salsa.

Pozole is one of Mexico’s culturally rich and beloved dishes. The different varieties can be found across the country, but all types can be traced to the same roots. Pozole’s dark and shocking history is part of the distant past, so enjoy the modern dish with this family recipe.

34

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

HOMEMADE POZOLE VERDE INGREDIENTS 2 pounds pork shoulder, diced 1 pound white hominy 2 white onions, cut in half 1 head of garlic 4 poblano peppers 1 pound of tomatillos 3 avocados 1 bunch cilantro 1/3 cup salt 2 teaspoons Knorr chicken bouillon powder DIRECTIONS Boil 2 or 3 liters of water in a large pot. Add pork, garlic, onions and salt.

Sauté poblano peppers in a separate pan for about 10 minutes on low heat or until just charred on both sides.

Remove peppers from heat, gut, skin and put aside in Ziplock bag. Boil the tomatillos. Puree with poblano peppers, avocado, cilantro, 1 tablespoon salt and the Knorr chicken bouillon powder. Blend until smooth, then stir into the pot with the pork and vegetables. Once the meat is soft and almost fully cooked, add the hominy. Salt to taste.

globally local LATE SUMMER FLAVORS

A TASTE OF ROMA Chef D’Agostino recently prepared this classic dish for our readers that captures the height of summer flavors. Enjoy!

OVEN-BAKED, RICE-STUFFED TOMATOES WITH POTATOES

By Elena D’Agostino This i s a t ypical s easonal r ecipe f rom R ome t hat’s v ery popular during the summer. It’s super easy to prepare, economic, fresh and vegetarian – and easy to carry around to late summer picnics, brownbag lunches or even road trips.

Enjoy these delicious tomatoes fresh out of the oven or at room temperature.

INGREDIENTS (serves 4) 8 ripe firm tomatoes 1 cup of rice (or arborio) 8 mint leaves, chopped 8 basil leaves, chopped 1 garlic clove, minced 3 pinches salt 1 pinch crushed red pepper 4-5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil For Side Potatoes 4 potatoes (russets) 1 tablespoon oregano or thyme

DIRECTIONS Oven-baked, rice-stuffed tomatoes with potatoes – Roma style. (Photo by E. D’Agostino)

L

ocal Chef Elena D’Agostino is well known for her delicious handmade pasta, which stands to reason as Italian cuisine is her birthright – she was born and raised in northern Italy in Torino. Now at the helm of her own company, she is delighted to be doing what she loves most, teaching and sharing her love of cooking and making pasta.

She knew from just chatting with people that there was great interest in learning the art of pasta-making, and after teaching a class with the Saint City Supper Club a couple of years ago, she was ready to go for it. Today, she offers wonderful cooking classes as well as personal chef services for private dinners and events – and she couldn’t be happier. If you are interested in discovering the world of pasta, this local chef is our resident expert.

To learn more about Chef D’Agostino, her personal chef services or her amazing pasta classes, visit ElenaDagostino.com.

Cut the top off each tomato and scoop out the pulp and juice. Set pulp aside in a bowl, filter the liquid and toss the seeds. Add salt, garlic, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, half of the chopped mint & basil, a pinch of crushed red pepper. Stir in rice and refrigerate for about 20 minutes for rice to absorb liquid and cook properly in the oven.

Season the bottom of the tomatoes with a pinch of salt, some mint and basil and fill 3/4 with the rice/liquid mixture.

Quarter potatoes and toss in a bowl with olive oil, salt and thyme. Place the potatoes all around the tomatoes in a baking pan, adding a touch of olive oil on top. Bake at 390°F for 30 to 40 minutes, using the top broil function for the last 5 minutes. Allow to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Personalize your dish with extra seasonings and Pecorino Romano or grated Parmesan, even sausage crumbles, to taste. You might even consider adding chorizo, onion, or beans.

ediblesanantonio.com

35

mimi’s heirloom recipes

YOSHOKU STORY, RECIPE AND PHOTO BY MIMI FAUBERT

This quintessential foodie is a Food Hero at our local Central Market. Ms. Faubert is not professionally trained – she is one of those rare talents with a superior palate and natural skills. You’ll typically find her in a kitchen, whipping up something extraordinary at home for her family or at work. And her tips, stories and recipes are always spot-on.

I

might be able to name a few, but seriously, who really doesn’t love a good potato salad?

Cool, refreshing, aromatic – crisp cucumbers with naturally sweet carrots and fluffy potatoes enrobed in creamy mayo. That flavor and texture combination is why Japanese potato salad is one of my favorites. For a long time, I simply knew it as the potato salad my Amà (Taiwanese grandmother) used to make.

Her version had peas, carrots, sometimes shrimp, sometimes ham, occasionally a boiled egg and usually apples. The pièce de résistance was eating it wrapped in a slice of white bread or in a bun (like a sweet Hawaiian roll) … the joys of double starch!

Japan and Taiwan’s longstanding socio-economic ties and geographical proximity clearly influenced Taiwanese cuisine, but I didn’t recognize the Japanese connection to Amà’s potato salad until I played the video game “Cooking Mama.” I knew she grew up in a Japanese-ruled Taiwan, but the light bulb didn’t go off until I was electronically peeling, chopping and

mixing. I never questioned what Amà cooked for me, so a root cause analysis of such joy was not needed.

Some of you may not even be aware that potatoes are part of Japanese cuisine, but indeed they are, and very much so.

The potato was introduced to Japan by Dutch traders in the late 1500s and became a common staple by the late 1800s. During Emperor Meiji’s reign, yoshoku (Western-influenced Japanese food) was born, effectively creating two types of Japanese food. Yoshoku dishes integrate western ingredients, but with Japanese flavor profiles that suit the Asian palate as well as any washoku (traditional Japanese food) dish would.

In the case of this potato salad, it’s not a miso mayo, wasabi-coated-sesame-seed-garnish or teriyaki-sauce-drizzle that makes it Japanese. It’s the integrated washoku elements – the texture, color and flavor balance – that captures the Japanese essence.

And this salad is loaded with washoku elements. Note the textures – nama (raw)and niru (boiled), the colors – aka (red tones), ao (green/blue), shiro (ivory/silver), kuro (black/dark tones) and the flavor balance of sweet/savory/salty that together stimulate the five senses.

While contemplating the yoshoku inspiration, I recognized the resemblance of Japanese potato salad to the Russian Olivier Salad, a mixture of potato, carrot, peas, boiled egg, cornichon and typically a meat (chicken or ham) dressed in mayonnaise. Very, very similar, except that the cornichon is replaced with fresh cucumber.

RECIPE NOTES The following recipe is simple and straightforward. But when it comes to cooking, I am all about preferential modifications while staying in context – like yoshoku. Therefore, no matter what, don’t overload this salad and try to adhere to the basics: potato, carrot, cucumber, onion and mayonnaise.

When it’s your turn, add ham or bacon or not. If you loathe boiled eggs, don’t fret. Skip the apple if you want, but it’s really enjoyable.

Sprinkle in some sweet golden corn if you feel like it. Kewpie mayo is classic, but I really am a fan of Duke’s. My dad only ever buys Miracle Whip so if you are in that category, work it! If you really have an aversion to onion and cannot even tolerate a garnish of chives, you may be able get there without adding it.

I prefer the crispness of seedless cucumber chunks, but I’ve had versions in which the cucumber is thinly sliced, salted then squeezed of the residual juices, yielding a different type of crunchy texture. I’d recommend this method if you want to make this salad ahead of time or expect to have leftovers. With the carrot, keep the nama aspect of it and make it thin or follow my lead by adding the whole carrots to the boiling water before roll cutting into chunks.

If you’re down for some potato salad, enjoy this recipe. It’s delicious with fried chicken, barbecue or just as a snack. Double down on double starch for that late summer feel and you won’t be sorry.

36

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

JAPANESE POTATO SALAD (SERVES 4-6)

INGREDIENTS 1 large Russet potato 2 carrots 1 cucumber 2 stalks green onion Mayonnaise Salt and pepper Optional: seasoned rice wine vinegar DIRECTIONS Trim and peel the cucumber in strips before removing the seeds and cutting it into small chunks. Trim and finely chop the green onion. Place them in separate containers and refrigerate until ready to use.

Scrub potato and carrots under cold, running water. Do not peel.

Place potato and carrots in a pot with enough cold water to cover the potato. (If you want an egg in your salad, go ahead and boil it in the same pot.) Add salt and bring to a low boil.

When the carrots are tender but firm (test with a sharp knife), remove them to a cutting board. When cool, trim the ends and easily peel the skin off by scraping it with a knife blade. Roll cut the carrots into bite-size pieces and place in a mixing bowl.

As soon as the potato is cooked, place it in an ice water bath until cool enough to peel. Then dice (same size as carrots) and add to bowl.

Loosely cover the bowl and allow veggies to cool to room temperature. With a fork, mix in mayo, salt, pepper and seasoned vinegar (if using). Lightly mash some of the potato pieces while mixing. Cover and chill in refrigerator. Mix in cucumber and green onion when ready to serve. Enjoy!

ediblesanantonio.com

37

ranch life

38

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

SQUASH CAKE!

LEMON SQUASH CAKE

STORY AND PHOTOS

BY MARCY EPPERSON Marcy Epperson lives with her family near Rocksprings where they raise grass finished beef, sheep, goats and horses. See what’s going on at the ranch on Instagram @heritagebeef or @marcy_epperson and follow on Facebook @ Heritage Beef to learn more about ranch life.

W

hen life gives you squash, make Lemon Cake!

It’s late summer. The ranch is rippling in waves of verdant glory not often seen in our semi-arid climate. Whitetail bucks are in full velvet and the does are fat, glossy and heavy bred. Fawns are hidden in prairie grasses and brush to escape the heat.

Almost all the calves have been born and we have a couple of adorable foals. It’s been a challenge to navigate the mud gathering goats and other critters, but in doing so I had the great luxury of seeing clouds and blue sky reflected in crystal clear rainwater collected on slickrock and in draws.

In the garden and orchard, this year’s peaches were in an unfortunate state. A late hard freeze and too much rain led to an unusually odd crop in which the peaches, from a distance, looked huge and beautiful, but up close they were split – rotten on one end and green on the other. The first harvest was practically unusable.

On the upside, four heirloom apple trees and three pear trees are laden. Soon I’ll make pies and freeze them for the winter as well as another treat – Basque apple paste.

And the yellow summer squash has been in a mad state of overproduction (if you’ve ever grown squash, you know exactly what I’m talking about). Stuffed squash blossoms, squash blossom quesadillas, grilled squash, fried squash, creamy cheesy old-style casseroles with buttery crackers on top – I do love squash.

We share the abundance, but there is a point where friends see you coming with more squash and sneak out the back door. So, when life gives you more squash than you can share, I suggest making cake!

Lemon squash cake or even chocolate squash cake are perfect, sneaky ways to use up all that squash and have your cake, too. Trust me, you will eat it all! And kids that don’t like squash will get their veggies, too, as I have accomplished this feat on more than one occasion.

INGREDIENTS 1 cup butter, very soft or even melted (I use European style with higher fat content) 2 cups sugar ½ cup lemon juice 2 teaspoons lemon zest 1 teaspoon vanilla 3 eggs 3 cups flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 2½ cups grated summer squash For the glaze 1 cup powdered sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice (adjust for desired thickness)

DIRECTIONS Preheat the oven to 350°F. Coat a Bundt pan (or two loaf pans) with baking spray.

Combine dry ingredients and set aside.

Cream butter and sugar, add lemon juice and zest and beat until combined.

Add eggs and beat until batter is light.

Add vanilla and grated squash and beat one minute on medi-um high, then reduce speed.

Add dry ingredients and mix until combined.

Pour into pan and bake 1 hour or until golden brown and inserted toothpick comes out clean.

Remove from oven, cool 10 minutes and invert onto platter.

Allow to cool slightly, then whisk together glaze and drizzle over cake. Great served with fresh seasonal berries, whipped cream, ice cream, sherbets or sorbets.

Want to make it chocolate? Reduce flour by ½ cup and replace with cocoa, add milk instead of lemon juice and leave out lemon zest. Glaze with ganache or your favorite icing. Enjoy!

ediblesanantonio.com

39

edible ink

Authors PJ and Apple Stoops working on recipes. (Photo courtesy)

A NEW BIBLE FOR TEXAS SEAFOOD REVIEWED BY ANGELA COVO

T

he latest cookbook from our friends at UT Press is a compendium of just about all the seafood you can eat ¬– and catch – in Texas. The sumptuous cookbook incorporates sustainable practices and serves as an outstanding illustrated guide to identifying, catching, buying, cooking and savoring more than two hundred species of fish and seafood from the Texas Gulf. The lovely tome, which is already available to order from Amazon and local book sellers, will be released Nov. 1. True to its title, we strongly recommend Texas Seafood: A Cookbook and Comprehensive Guide as an important addition to every local foodie’s culinary library.

40

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

RECIPE EXCERPT ~ FRIED FISH SUSTAINABLE BYCATCH

The abundance of seafood available from the northwest Gulf of Mexico includes hundreds of delicious species often overlooked by consumers. Celebrating this regional bounty, Texas Seafood showcases the expertise of its authors, longtime fishmongers and chefs, PJ and Apple Stoops.

You’ll find familiar fish like Red Snapper along with dozens of little-known finfish and invertebrates, including tunas, mackerels, rays and skates, as well as bivalves, shrimps, crabs and other varieties, many of which are considered bycatch.

The authors define bycatch as “an umbrella term for all incidental catch of non-targeted species” and, they explain, the term “forms the heart of this book.” All are just as delicious and no more difficult to prepare than the fish commonly found at your local supermarket.

The Stoops provide a complete primer to source the wild-caught delicacies, with fascinating details about habitats and life cycles and practical advice on how to discern quality. A section even shares the joys of catching bivalves, including the correct season, Texas Wildlife regulations and other practical tips.

Texas Seafood wraps the edition up with simple, delectable recipes, many infused with the flavors of Apple’s Th ai heritage. Dishes such as Steamed Curried Crab, Crispy White Shrimp, Escolar on a Grill with Green Mango Salad, Cast Iron Roasted Gulf Coast Swordfish Steaks with Rio Grande Grapefruit and Chicken-Fried Ribbonfish are just a few ways to savor the best of the Gulf.

PJ and Benchalak Srimart “Apple” Stoops share their extensive experience and knowledge as fishmongers and chefs at Foreign Correspondent, a farm-to-table northern Thai e atery n amed o ne o f B on Appétit’s Best New Restaurants in 2015.

Mr. Stoops was also the driving force behind Houston’s “Total Catch Market,” a regular event that sold bycatch seafood from the Gulf of Mexico.

Enjoy this excerpt from Texas Seafood: A Cookbook and Comprehensive Guide by PJ Stoops and Benchalak Srimart Stoops, © 2019, published with permission from the University of Texas Press.

Everyone eats fried fish. Even some people who don’t like fish eat fried fish. The following two recipes can be used for any white fish worth frying. We have no preference as to taste. As for utility, southern-fried is best for firmer white fish like redfish, drums and large snapper; English-fried works for delicate white fish like hakes, porgies and small snappers; and chicken-fried is ideal for fish on the bone.

All three styles go well with mayonnaise – or aioli-based sauces (remoulade, tartar sauce, etc.) – or cocktail sauce or ketchup or anything else that tastes good with fried foods. Both recipes serve approximately 4 people.

APPLE’S SOUTHERN-FRIED REDFISH

THE KIDS’ STANDBY SACK LUNCH The crust stays intact and pretty crusty for hours, so this is the perfect to-go fish.

INGREDIENTS Canola oil for frying 1 cup cornmeal ¼ cup all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon pepper 1 egg, beaten 1½ – 2 pounds Almaco Jack fillet, skinned and sliced into long pieces ¼ – ½ inch thick

DIRECTIONS Heat about a half inch of oil in a cast-iron skillet on medium-high heat.

Mix together the cornmeal, flour, salt and pepper.

Dip the fish in the beaten egg, then dredge in the corn-meal mix.

Fry in the cast-iron skillet, about 3 minutes per side.

Drain well on paper towels.

ENGLISH-FRIED BROTULA

This recipe is included courtesy of our friend Richard Knight.

INGREDIENTS 1½ – 2 pounds Brotula fillet, skinned and sliced into long pieces about 1 inch thick Enough vegetable oil to fill the deep fryer

BATTER 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 cups cornstarch 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt One 12-ounce bottle of beer One 10-ounce bottle of soda water (or more)

DIRECTIONS Heat the oil in the deep fryer to 350°F. Combine all the dry mix ingredients together in a large bowl.

Add the beer and soda water, whisking steadily all the while.

You’ll not want to see any actual fish, just batter, so if batter seems thin, add a very small amount of flour and cornstarch, in equal parts. Dip the fish slices in the batter, making sure every bit of surface area is coated well. Fry for about 3 to 4 minutes per side, until internal temperature reaches at least 145°F. Drain well on paper towels.

ediblesanantonio.com

41

local pints

LOCAL FLAVOR AT ROUGHHOUSE BREWING

BY J.E. JORDAN 42

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

J

ust outside of San Marcos, Roughhouse Brewing sits on five acres of Texas Hill Country carved out of Pasternak Ranch on Oakwood Loop. Husband and wife owners and co-founders, Davy and Alex Pasternak, saw it as the perfect place to bring the farmhouse ale experience to the Texas Hill Country.

The adventure started when Davy, with a degree in mechanical engineering, garnered an opportunity to consult for Jester King Brewery, the folks who pioneered the wild yeast style of beer in the Hill Country. Developed over centuries from rustic ales, brewed with wild yeast on small farms in the long-ago Kingdom of Flanders, farmhouse ales have evolved into a more refined modern version.

He learned about propagating wild yeast for brewing and farmhouse ales.

Alex, not previously a beer drinker, found

(Photo Courtesy)

the crisp, thirst-quenching taste of farmhouse ales awakened her taste buds. Davy, a home brewer and constant seeker of knowledge and new skills, felt it was time to expand to a bigger venue as his home brewing equipment had outgrown their apartment. Alex agreed.

Before moving in, the Pasternaks wanted to be sure their neighbors would be onboard with yet another brewery in the neighborhood. Roughhouse is just half a mile from Middleton Brewing Co., one of many craft breweries sprinkled throughout the Hill Country.

Alex oversaw the outreach.

“We let them know it would be like when you visit several wineries, tasting different wines, and you know you’re drinking wine made from grapes grown on the land. A place where you could go with a group of friends or even with family,” she explained. “We wanted them to know it would be a wholesome environment.”

The rustic, yet refined, barnlike brewery, tap room and cozy loft flanked by a covered sidewalk beer garden, outdoor stage and kitchen garden, does indeed have a wholesome ambience. Families, children and dogs are always welcome.

“We want it to feel like you’re coming into a home, and in a way, you are,” Davy explained. “We want whoever comes here … to feel at home and to get the real Texas experience.”

Roughhouse stocks a few Texas wines for non-beer drinkers. It also hosts regular evening performances of musicians and singer-songwriters at the outdoor stage.

“We think it’s nice when people can drink a refreshing beer and there’s someone who can talk to them about the beer,” he said, laughing. “We do have people coming in and asking if we have wine because they don’t like beer. That’s like saying you don’t like music. How can you say that?”

Roughhouse is a family affair. Davy’s older brother, Andy, also a mechanical engineer, is co-owner and cellarman. The Pasternaks knew they wanted to serve food and enlisted their favorite home cook, Steve Baker DeLeon. The onsite kitchen, called S. Baker, serves up food that’s made to order and easy to enjoy.

Like vintages in wines, Roughhouse ales, made with water from an onsite well fed by the Trinity Aquifer, brewed with yeast harvested from juniper berries growing on cedar bushes, local herbs, spices and blooms, differ from batch to batch.

“It’s been a fun project for me,” Davy said. “I tried Thai basil in one brew and calendula that grew on a plot out back. Now I’ve got the bug for blackberries, maybe blueberries. Combining gardening with beer is my happy place. It’s like a hobby within a job.”

To learn more, visit roughhousebrewing.com. ediblesanantonio.com

43

The Beckers in their wine cellar near Fredericksburg.

(Photo by Sophie Gonzales)

44

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

sommelier says

REMEMBERING

BUNNY BECKER 1940 – 2019

BY NICHOLE BENDELE

W

ith heavy hearts we share Dame Mary Clementine Ellison “Bunny” Becker, a pioneer of the wine industry in Texas, passed away earlier this month.

Born on August 27, 1940 in Greenville, Mississippi, she moved with her family to Texarkana when she was just a little girl. She grew up in Texarkana and went to college in Austin, where she graduated with honors from the University of Texas with a B.A. in Speech Pathology. She went to graduate school at Our Lady of the Lake University, where she was awarded a full scholarship.

As a graduate student, she studied Speech and Language Disorders. Bunny worked as a speech therapist in several school districts.

She met Dr. Richard Becker during her college years on a blind date. That date was the beginning of a grand adventure – they married on June 13, 1964 and had three children, Clementine, Will and Joe, while Dr. Becker was still in training. Both tall in stature – she was six feet and he was six-foot-six – they would often say they “matched on altitude and were together thereafter based on attitude.”

In the early 90s, while looking for a log cabin to renovate in the Texas Hill Country as a weekend retreat, they fell in love with one on a 45-acre tract of land, just 11 miles east of Fredericksburg. As they both loved wine and regularly traveled all over the world in search of the finest, they took the next logical step.

Deciding those 45 acres were much better suited for a vineyard, they planted one in 1992. They harvested their first grapes in 1995 and the winery followed soon after.

Bunny helped grow the winery from 2,500 cases to 120,000 cases per year. She also made the winery and tasting rooms warm and inviting. It was not unusual to see her greeting guests at the front door of the winery with a

large smile saying, “Welcome to Becker Vineyards” and giving tours of the winery operation. Her hospitality was legendary, and Bunny will always be remembered for her warmth and engaging personality.

Since the day they founded Becker Vineyards in 1992, it’s grown to premier status. Becker Wines have been served to three U.S. presidents, at three Governor’s Dinners at the White House and at 10 James Beard House Dinners in New York City. Bunny also appeared twice on the cover of Wine Spectator and in 2014, received the Tall in Texas Award for her leadership in the Texas Wine Industry.

In 2000, she planted a three-acre field of French lavender and started the Lavender Festival which takes place every year in May. Besides growing lavender, grapes and making wine, Bunny was a wonderful chef, particularly adept at French cuisine and well known for her brilliant tables of food and wine.

She constantly gave back to the community. She sat on the boards of the Texas Hill Country Food and Wine Festival and Culinaria, which she helped found. An active member of Les Dames d’ Escoffier-San Antonio (LDEI) since 1996, she deeply enjoyed her friendships with fellow Dames and working on LDEI fundraisers and benefits. She was also a member of the UT Chancellor’s Executive Advisory Board, The Argyle, Dominion Country Club and Boot Ranch.

She is preceded in death by her parents, Dr. Eugene Ellison and Margaret Ellison and her daughter, Mary Clementine Becker. She is survived by her husband, Dr. Becker, her sons and their families, Will and Emma Becker and their children, Henry, Sam and Maggie, Drs. Joe and Emily Becker and their children, Nathan, Nolan and Nicholas.

Most of all, Bunny loved her family and her many friends, and we all love her deeply in return. Her legacy and big heart continues to shine.

ediblesanantonio.com

45

46

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

edible SOURCES Alamo Ranch Farmers Market Click. Order. Receive. Enjoy.

PO Box 380058 San Antonio, TX 78268 210-446-0099 www.alamoranchfarm.market

Fredericksburg Convention and Visitor Bureau The Texas Hill Country Texas Heart. German Soul.

866-997-3600 visitfredericksburgtx.com

Mission Marquee Plaza 2019 Farmers and Artisans Market 3100 Roosevelt Avenue San Antonio, TX missionmarquee.com

Austin Label Company Quality that sticks 1610 Dungan Lane, Suite A Austin, TX 78754 512-302-0204 austinlabel.com

Humble House Foods Honest Food. Honest People.

Pearl Farmers Market 312 Pearl Parkway San Antonio, TX 78215 210-706-0067 humblehousefoods.com

River Whey Creamery Artisanal Cheese 17361 Bell N. Drive, #115 Schertz, TX 78154 210-326-1342 riverwheycreamery.com

City of San Antonio World Heritage Office World Heritage Festival September 4-8, 2019 San Antonio, TX worldheritagefestival.org Cotton Gin Village More than a Bed & Breakfast 2805 S. State Highway 16 Fredericksburg, TX 78624 830-990-5734 cottonginvillage.com Don Strange of Texas Catering | Venues | Event Management 1551 Bandera Road San Antonio, TX 78228 210-434-2331 donstrange.com Dress for Success Casino Night October 18, 2019 The Witte Museum San Antonio, TX successfulconnections.org

Kuhlman Cellars Old World Terroir â&#x20AC;Ś New World Cuisine 18421 E. US 290 Stonewall, TX 78671 512-920-2675 kuhlmancellars.com La Bonne Vie Ranch Hill Country Weddings & Events 1827 Pfiester Road Fredericksburg, TX 78624 210-651-2506 labonnevieranch.com LDEI-San Antonio Lone Star Whiskeys Afternoon October 6, 2019 River Rock Event Center Fair Oaks Ranch, TX lonestarafternoon.org Lick Honest Ice Creams Scoops full of Texas goodness at the Pearl 312 Pearl Parkway, #2101 San Antonio, TX 78215 210.314.8166 ilikelick.com

SAFILMSan Antonio Film Festival 2020 Call for Entries safilm.com SARAH South Alamo Regional Alliance for the Homeless 4100 E. Piedras Drive San Antonio, TX 78228 210-876-0720 sarahomeless.org Specâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wines, Spirits & Finer Foods Locations across Texas specsonline.com Tracey Maurer Photography Some of the best things happen in the kitchen San Antonio, TX 210-325-4550 tmaurerphoto.com

ediblesanantonio.com

47

the last bite

(Photo by Jorge Láscar)

INNER WORKINGS

M

BY MICHAEL SOHOCKI

y restaurant has a patio that hangs over the Riverwalk, and every once in a while (though I dread such things) I peek over the side during one of those boat parades and see people floating by with their suits of sparkly sequins, make-up clear up to the ears and that weird cupped-hand Queen Elizabeth wave thing.

As they go past, I look at them from behind and watch until they disappear around the bend, the perky notes of some top-40 pop song tinkling after them. This is considered beauty. And I think ... how shallow it all is.

Great from the front. We live in a culture based, incredibly, on great from the front.

We are just like this. Functioning in a world with altogether too much stimulus requires us to shave off huge amounts of information to get something digestible into the tiny hole of our consciousness – and so we slot people qualitatively, a human in cheap caricature. This one’s a ham, that one’s shifty, there goes “that great chef.” Fake. Gross. But to satisfy expectations, we often help that image along.

Strange how we can become what others see rather than the other way around.

We talk, or post, or tag (whatever it is people do now) the best thing forward, portraying the hottest clothing, the best-looking dish, the coolest backdrop, carving and curating ever higher portrayals of our everyday life. You perfect a grin. Learn the wave.

When I gather all my managers and chefs around me for a meeting, I’m looking at at least $1000 worth of attention. It’s flattering, for sure – but intimidating. Frankly, it’s not every meeting that I have a $1000 idea. And I must admit that one or another of my managers knows or can do every single thing I do better than I could at my sharpest.

48

edible San Antonio

THE LATE SUMMER ISSUE

It’s hard to look in that mirror sometimes. Without the makeup. To see who you really are.

Did you ever meet a “famous person” and find that actually talking to them is completely boring? Do they fall back on well-worn lines from their greatest hits, or pull out stiff old axioms for one more reheat?

Guilty. But certainly, grateful for the attention. And, well, maybe a little sad. Tired. We feel like we are under pressure to perform, to give what they come to get. Because that’s what made us cool, right? Get one more roar out of that lion.

You do it, too. People you know from a distance (which is most of them), you paint with a simple quality to make “sense” of your world and call it good enough – just to get your head around it. Understandable (assumptions are required to walk a straight line), but not real.

It takes long days, bad days, wrong turns, moments of confusion, nights when you’re at the end of your rope and longing for your pillow … when there’s one more deep clean that nobody wants to acknowledge waiting for you over there on the clipboard about to push you into at least the next hour at 2 o’clock in the morning. Then the real you comes out – whoever that may be.

There’s a certain way of knowing people you don’t see – won’t ever see – until you’ve been beaten and weathered together, ground together under the wheels of life, until the front cover gets worn off. We all look like shit at that point. When the very last biscuit is gone.

Your blood and sweat are mixed with these people. That’s where the real happens, that moment when the leader is out of strength, out of ideas, bitter, scared, ready to crawl under a rock – and the soldier quietly drags the leader up the hill.

That’s how you know somebody loves you. That’s what beautiful looks like.

we’lltoast toasttotothat that we’ll 40 wineries & tasting | museums & historic sites | peaches & wildflowers German heritage | golf over 40over wineries & tasting rooms |rooms museums & historic sites | peaches & wildflowers | German| heritage | golf sophisticated shopping | festivals art galleries | Hill cuisine Country| cuisine | live Texas music sophisticated shopping | festivals & events& |events eclectic| eclectic art galleries | cycling || cycling Hill Country live Texas music

Every Every cabin cabin comes comes withwith luxurious luxurious linens, linens, a wood-burning a wood-burning fireplace fireplace andand MMAAJ O J OR R B BR ROOWWN NI EI E P P OO I NI N T ST S You’ll You’ll be the be the herohero when when you you bookbook a Cotton a Cotton Gin Gin Village Village cabin cabin for your for your nextnext getaway. getaway.

These These privately privately situated situated cabins cabins nestled nestled around around a a lushlush circular circular courtyard courtyard are your are your answer answer to relaxation. to relaxation.

Enjoy Enjoy the front the front porch porch

rocker, rocker, the stone the stone fireplace, fireplace, the courtyard the courtyard waterfalls waterfalls and the andgourmet the gourmet breakfast breakfast pastries pastries prepared prepared by the by adjoining the adjoining Cabernet Cabernet Grill. Grill.

And it’s And it’s just minutes just minutes from from Main Main Street!

Street!

Book Book now.now.

They’ll They’ll thankthank you later. you later.

8 3803 09 9909 50 753743 4C O CTOTTOTN OGNI G N IVNI V L LI LALGAEG. CE O . CMO M

F RFERDE EDREIRCIK CSKBSUBRUGR,GT, ETXEAXSA S

i crkgsTbXu. rc g V i s i t FVriesdi teFrri e c kdsebr u oT mX |. c8o6m 6 9| 9876 63 690907 3 6 0 0

TO

edible San Antonio

FARM HOME

edible

san antonio®

eat. drink. think.

www.alamoranchfarm.market CLICK • ORDER • RECEIVE • ENJOY LOCAL PRODUCE, MEATS & HANDMADE ITEMS DELIVERED TO YOU

The Late Summer Issue

FREE DELIVERY

MOBILE FARMERS MARKET • LOCAL FOOD CONCIERGE SERVICE

Issue No. 34

TO FIRST-TIME CUSTOMERS ACTIVE MILITARY AND VETERANS

A UNESCO CREATIVE CITY OF GASTRONOMY