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AND TEXAS MOUNTAINS Fall 2018 - Summer 2019
View from the Balanced Rock, Big Bend National Park
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Contents
BIG BEND AND TEXAS MOUNTAINS TRAVEL GUIDE
10 12 14 16 21 23 27 35 36 39 42 46 49 53 59 61 63 64 68 71 72
Welcome to the Guide Regional Map Calendar of Events Big Bend National Park Guadalupe Mountains National Park Texas State Parks City Listings Alpine Del Rio El Paso Fort Davis Fort Stockton Lajitas Marathon Marfa Monahans Odessa Ozona Presidio Terlingua/Study Butte Toyahvale/Balmorhea Van Horn
Features
75 Dark Skies 79 Texas Mountain Trail
Last Look
LEE HOY
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THANK YOU for picking up a copy of the 2018/19 Big
Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide! This is the sixth year our team has had the privilege of publishing this travel guide. It has been published once a year since 1984 and approximately 100,000 copies are distributed. I’d like to thank Wendy Little and all the Texas Mountain Trail board members for their commitment to the travel guide and for the opportunity given to our team to publish it. I’d also like to acknowledge the passing of Ron Sanders, who championed the Big Bend region in so many ways, and was involved with and supported this publication since it began. There is a tribute to Ron on page 78. I love to travel throughout the area, and even before I became the publisher I carried the publication with me for vital information and tips. It’s an incredible resource for anyone wishing to explore the region. For example, you’ll find information on various parks (state and national), as well as a city-by-city guide. In addition, we put together a feature story this year on the amazing night skies in the Big Bend (see page 75). The allure of the Big Bend region is strong and whether you’re a first-time or repeat visitor I hope you have a wonderful time in this amazing part of Texas. We have many important contributors to the travel guide, and you can read about some of them on this page, but in addition I’d like to thank the guide’s designer, Martha GazellaTaylor, who was born and raised in Odessa and went to Permian High School. As far as my background, I wear a few hats. In addition to being the publisher and founder of Texas Music magazine, I also produce Viva Big Bend, which is held in Alpine, Fort Davis, Marathon and Marfa. Our music festival is the last weekend of July each year. I hope you’ll find as much enjoyment in visiting this area as we do in promoting it. Thank you for reading the Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide, and happy trails! — Stewart Ramser
A MESSAGE FROM
Texas Mountain Trail WELCOME TO the beautiful mountains of far West
Texas, to our quiet communities, to our colorful sunsets and to our frontier! Our Texas Mountain Trail nonprofit organization is proud to present the latest edition of the Big Bend and Texas Mountain Travel Guide with Ramser Media, and we hope it helps you get the most out of your stay. Since 2005, we’ve been reaching out to travelers with information about far West Texas, encouraging folks to spend their vacations in our mountains. We’ve also worked with community leaders here to make the region more visitor-friendly by developing programs like the Far West Texas Wildlife Trail and our cycle-friendly hotels and heritage bike routes. Let us know what you think of the Guide, and ways we can make your stay more enjoyable. Kick back, enjoy the quiet, seek your adventure and have the time of your life! — Wendy Little
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Martha Gazella-Taylor Martha GazellaTaylor is the designer for the Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide. She hails from Odessa, the “big city” of West Texas. She has since moved, gone to school, started a family and created a graphic design business in Austin, Texas. Ironically, it wasn’t until she moved to Austin — with its religious appreciation of fitness and the outdoors — that she found herself trekking back to far West Texas to see for the first time what the parks had to offer. She has been hooked ever since.
E. Dan Klepper E. Dan Klepper is a fine artist, photographer and writer based in the west Texas town of Marathon, where he exhibits his art and photography at Klepper Gallery. Klepper’s photographs have been featured in numerous books and magazines including “In Sight,” the online photography magazine for the Washington Post, and his large-scale works of photo-based art can be found in collections across the state. His book “Why the Raven Calls the Canyon,” is available from Texas A&M University Press, and his work can be found online at www.kleppergallery.com.
Lee Hoy Lee Hoy is a professional photographer and the owner of Big Bend Birding & Photo Tours. His mission is to share the beauty of Big Bend National Park and the surrounding region with others. Lee first went to Big Bend in August 1989 and saw a Canyon Towhee which ignited a passion for birding and bird photography.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MAY LEAL, COURTESY MARTHA GAZELLA-TAYLOR, COURTESY E. DAN KLEPPER, COURTESY LEE HOY, COURTESY WENDY LITTLE
Publisher’s Letter
Contributors
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Map Must a n
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Paso ElEl Paso
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Red Bluff Reservoir
Kermit 302
CULBERSON
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20
Kent
10
oG Ri
Balmorhea
Van Horn
n ra
Toyahvale
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MEXICO MEXICO
Pecos Lake Toyah
Pecos River
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18
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385
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Rankin
Big Lake Lake 67
67
163
349
Bu
Iraan 10
JEFF DAVIS
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Sterling City City 87
REAGAN
McCamey
Fort Stockton
Balmorhea Lake
329 385
Co Rivncho er
STERLING
Crane CRANE
Imperial Reservoir
rth
Garden City 349
UPTON
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No
MIDLAND
Penwell
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GLASSCOCK
Odessa
ECTOR 20
Stanton
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302
Monahans
reek
Sierra Blanca
WINKLER
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WARD
REEVES
MOUNTAIN STAND ARD TIME CENTRAL STANDARD TIME
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Wink
HUDSPETH
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Midland
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Toyah C
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LOVING
Socorro Soccorro San SanElizario Elizario
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115 128
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GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK
MARTIN
raw
Dell City •
EL PASO
Andrews
ANDREWS
NEW MEXICO NEW MEXICO
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g
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349
115
385 176
ck
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rn
190 349
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Dr 190 aw
17
90
PECOS
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Fort Davis
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Ozona
Sheffield
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Sonora
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CROCKET T CROCKETT
TERRELL 349
90
Marathon PRESIDIO
SUTTON SUT TON
South Llano River
Ri
ve r
VAL VERDE
Shafter
Dryden
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Langtry
Stillwell Ranch
377
Grande RioRio Grande
Comstock
Presidio Presidio
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Study Terlingua Butte
Lajitas Lajitas
BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK
Chisos Basin Castolon
Heath Heath Canyon Canyon
e or m ca k Sy Cree
Del Rio
Amistad International Reservoir
Ciudad Ciudad Acuña Acuña
PUBLISHER: Stewart Ramser EDITOR: Tom Buckley DESIGN: Martha Gazella-Taylor CONTRIBUTORS: Wendy Little, E. Dan Klepper
In the spring of 2013, the border crossing at Boquillas reopened as a result of enthusiastic advocates in both the United States and Mexican governments. Consider making a trip there yourself! While a travel advisory is in place from the U.S. State Department for travel in Mexico, residents of the Big Bend area continue to enjoy an extremely low incidence rate, and a visible, supportive law enforcement presence. 67
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Rockspring Rocksprings
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Rio Grande Grande Village Village
Bracketville 90
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KINNEY 131
G U I D E
Junction
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BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK
T R A V E L
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EDWARDS
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River
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BREWSTER 118
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Telegraph
ver West Nu eces Ri
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os
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Sanderson Ruidosa
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KIMBLE
North Llano
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River
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Alpine Marfa 67
Devils
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2810
BREWSTER
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MAVERICK 57
AND TEXAS MOUNTAINS
Eagle Pass Piedras Negras
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TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL BOARD OF DIRECTORS Rio Grande
Robert Alvarez (President) — Visit Big Bend Randall Kinzie (Treasurer) — Stone Village Tourist Camp, Fort Davis Mary Bones (Secretary) — Museum of the Big Bend, Alpine Melissa Henderson — Fort Davis Chamber of Commerce, Fort Davis Maegan Hruby — Visit El Paso, El Paso Carol Peterson — Gage Hotel, Marathon Travis Roberts — Brewster County Historical Commission, Marathon Bernie Sargent — El Paso History Alliance, El Paso Drew Stuart — Dell City Jennifer Turner — Mountain Trails Lodge, Fort Davis
Fort Stockton
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Fort Stockton High School
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COVER PHOTO: Christina Hubbartt
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The Big Bend & Texas Mountains Travel Guide is licensed for publication by the Texas Mountain Trail. © 2018 All rights reserved. 385
James Rooney Memorial Park
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CALENDAR of Events
PERMIAN BASIN FAIR
Ector County Coliseum permianbasinfair.com 2018 Dates: Aug. 31-Sept. 9 SEPTEMBERFEST
Museum of the Southwest Midland museumsw.org 2018 Dates: Sept. 7-9 MARATHON ARTS, CRAFTS AND QUILT SHOW
Marathon Community Center Marathon marathontexas.com 2018 Date: Sept. 8 See p. 50 for details CYCLEFEST
Prude Ranch Fort Davis pbbatx.com 2018 Dates: Sept. 15–16 See p. 40 for details TRANS-PECOS FESTIVAL OF MUSIC + LOVE
El Cosmico Marfa elcosmico.com 2018 Dates: Sept. 20–23 See p. 55 for details MARFA OPEN
Multiple venues Marfa tacheles-marfa.com 2018 Dates: Sept. 21–Oct. 6
ERIN HANSON: IMPRESSIONS OF BIG BEND COUNTRY
Museum of the Big Bend Alpine museumofthebigbend.com 2018 Dates: Opening weekend Sept. 21-22; Exhibit on display through Dec. 16 MUSEUM OF THE BIG BEND HERITAGE DINNER
Ritchey Brothers Building Marathon museumofthebigbend.com 2018 Date: Sept. 22 NATIONAL PUBLIC LANDS DAY
Big Bend National Park publiclandsday.org 2018 Date: Sept. 22 See p. 19 for details WEST FEST CABRITO COOK-OFF & DANCE
Post Park Marathon marathontexas.com 2018 Dates: Sept. 28-29 See p. 50 for details
Come and Take It BBQ Alpine comeandtakeitbbqtx.com 2018 Dates: Oct. 6-7 WILD WEST BIRD FEST
Multiple venues Texas Mountain Trail region facebook.com/wildwestbirdfest 2018 Dates: Oct. 6-7 RIDE 4 TRAILS
Big Bend Resort & Adventures Study Butte ride4trails.com 2018 Dates: Oct. 12–13 See p. 70 for details MARFA 100
Ranch Road 2810 Marfa facebook.com/Marfa100 2018 Date: Oct. 20 TRANS-PECOS ULTRA
Alpine/Big Bend Ranch State Park trans-pecosultra.com 2018 Dates: Oct. 20-28
NOVEMBER 2018 ARTWALK
Multiple venues Alpine artwalkalpine.com 2018 Dates: Nov. 16-17 See p. 28 for details
DECEMBER 2018
MARATHON 2 MARATHON
OCTOBER 2018 CROOKED CROW SONGWRITER’S RETREAT
Chinati Hot Springs crookedcrow.net 2018 Dates: Oct. 3-7, Oct. 10-14 CHINATI WEEKEND
Marathon 2 Marathon attracts runners from across the state and beyond.
FIRST SHOT FESTIVAL
Multiple venues Marfa chinati.org 2018 Dates: Oct. 5–7 See p. 55 for details
Marathon marathon2marathon.com 2018 Date: Oct. 27 See ad on p. 2 for details TERLINGUA GREEN SCENE SUSTAINABILITY FESTIVAL
Terlingua Ghost Town terlinguagreenscene.com 2018 Date: Oct. 27 TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP
Rancho CASI de los Chisos casichili.net 2018 Dates: Oct. 29-Nov. 3 See p. 70 for details
FIESTA DE NOCHA BUENA
Main Street Marathon marathontexas.com 2018 Date: Dec. 1 See p. 50 for details CHRISTMAS IN ALPINE
Multiple venues visitalpinetx.com/events 2018 Dates: Dec. 1 FRONTIER CHRISTMAS
Memorial Square & Nature Conservancy Fort Davis fortdavis.com 2018 Dates: Dec. 1-2 See p. 40 for details PECAN DESSERT CONTEST/ LIGHTED CHRISTMAS PARADE
Convention Center Van Horn (432) 283-2050 2018 Date: TBA
JANUARY 2019 BLACK-EYED PEA COOKOFF
Terlingua historicterlingua.homestead. com/events.html 2019 Date: Jan. 1 See p. 70 for details
Trappings of Texas takes place at the Museum of the Big Bend in Alpine.
SANDHILLS STOCK SHOW AND RODEO
Ector County Coliseum Odessa sandhillsssr.com 2019 Dates: Jan. 2-12 NEW MOON FESTIVAL
Marathon Motel Marathon marathontexas.com 2019 Dates: Jan. 4-5 BIG BEND ULTRA
Big Bend Ranch State Park bigbend50.com 2019 Date: Jan. 20 EL PASO PUZZLER ENDURANCE MOUNTAIN BIKE RACE
El Paso elpasopuzzler.com 2019 Date: Jan. 20
FEBRUARY 2019 MIDESSA BOAT, RV, SPORT & GUN SHOW
Ector County Coliseum Odessa midessaboatshow.net 2019 Dates: Feb. 8-10 MARATHON FISH FRY FUNDRAISER
Marathon Community Center marathontexas.com 2019 Date: Feb. 9 See p. 50 for details HUECO ROCK RODEO
Hueco Tanks State Park El Paso huecorodeo.com 2019 Dates: TBA EL PASO MARATHON
El Paso elpasomarathon.org 2019 Date: Feb. 17
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SEPTEMBER 2018
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TEXAS COWBOY POETRY GATHERING
ALPINE COWBOYS BASEBALL
Sul Ross State University Alpine texascowboypoetry.com 2019 Dates: Feb. 22-23 See p. 29 for details
Kokernot Field Alpine visitalpine.com 2019 Dates: mid-May through July See p. 29 for details
APRIL 2019 EL PASO CHIHUAHUAS BASEBALL
Southwest University Park El Paso milb.com/el-paso 2019 Dates: April through September TRAPPINGS OF TEXAS
Museum of the Big Bend Alpine museumofthebigbend.com 2019 Dates: Opening weekend April 11-13; Exhibit on display through May 19 See p. 29 for details BIG BEND OPEN ROAD RACE
Fort Stockton, Sanderson bborr.com 2019 Dates: April 24-27 See p. 43 for details TEXAS STAR PARTY
Prude Ranch near Fort Davis texasstarparty.org 2019 Dates: April 28-May 5
MAY 2019
FIESTA WEST TEXAS
Ector County Coliseum Odessa myfiestawesttexas.com 2019 Dates: TBA NEON DESERT MUSIC FESTIVAL
Cleveland Square Park El Paso neondesertmusicfestival.com 2019 Dates: TBA
JUNE 2019 FRIJOLE DAYS MUSIC FEST
Frijole Ranch Guadalupe Mountains National Park nps.gov 2019 Dates: early June THEATRE OF THE BIG BEND
BIG BEND FIGHT NIGHT
Civic Center Alpine (432) 294-2645 2019 Date: May 11
Downtown Fort Davis fortdavis.com See p. 40 for details
Sul Ross State University Alpine sulross.edu/tobb 2019 Dates: TBA
FIRECRACKER FANDANGO
WEST OF THE PECOS RODEO
MARFA FILM FESTIVAL Multiple venues Marfa marfafilmfestival.com 2019 Dates: TBA (July)
Buck Jackson Arena Pecos pecosrodeo.com 2019 Dates: TBA
CINEMARFA
Multiple venues Marfa cinemarfa.org 2019 Dates: May 2-5
“COOLEST” 4TH OF JULY CELEBRATION
JULY 2019 FRONTIER DAYS
Downtown Van Horn vanhorntexas.us 2019 Dates: TBA Viva Big Bend is an annual music festival in Alpine, Marfa, Marathon and Fort Davis.
Downtown Odessa odessacvb.com 2019 Date: TBA
VIVA BIG BEND MUSIC FESTIVAL
Multiple venues Alpine, Fort Davis, Marathon, Marfa vivabigbend.com 2019 Dates: July 25-28 See p. 29 for details
MARFA LIGHTS FESTIVAL
County Courthouse Marfa visitmarfa.com 2019 Dates: Labor Day Weekend See p. 55 for details LABOR DAY WEEKEND BIKE RALLY
River Run to the Trading Post Presidio presidiotx.us 2019 Dates: Labor Day Weekend EAGLE IN THE SUN TRIATHLON
County Courthouse SISD Aquatic Center El Paso raceelpaso.com 2019 Date: TBA
MUSIC SERIES
AUGUST 2019
ALFRESCO! FRIDAYS
ROCK THE DESERT
Convention Center Plaza El Paso elpasolive.com/alfresco_fridays 2019 Dates: May-August
RTD Festival Field Midland rockthedesert.com 2019 Dates: Aug. 1–3
FROM TOP: COURTESY VISIT EL PASO, J. GRIFFIS SMITH/TXDOT, VISIT EL PASO
SEPTEMBER 2019
PLAZA CLASSIC FILM FESTIVAL
Alfresco! Fridays is a popular music series in downtown El Paso.
The El Paso Chihuahuas baseball season runs from April until September.
COOL CANYON NIGHTS
McKelligon Canyon Amphitheatre El Paso visitelpaso.com 2019 Dates: Summer Thursdays COUNTY LINE FREE MUSIC SERIES
County Line at the State Line BBQ El Paso countyline.com 2019 Dates: Wednesdays June through August HOT SUMMER NIGHTS WITH COOL MUSIC
Noel Plaza Odessa odessaarts.org 2019 Dates: Fridays in June and July SUMMER OFF THE PATIO
Annie Riggs Museum Fort Stockton annieriggsmuseum.org 2019 Dates: June-August See p. 43 for details
Various Venues El Paso plazaclassic.com 2019 Dates: Aug. 1–11 BIG BEND RANCH RODEO
S.A.L.E. Arena, Sul Ross University Alpine bigbendranchrodeo.com 2019 Dates: Aug. 9-10 See p. 29 for details DAVIS MOUNTAINS HUMMINGBIRD CELEBRATION
Hotel Limpia & various locations Fort Davis fortdavis.com 2019 Dates: TBA (August) See p. 40 for details
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BIG BEND D N AT I O N A L PA R K
E N C O M PA S S I N G M O R E T H A N 8 0 0 , 0 0 0 AC R E S O F M O U N TA I N C L I F F S , D E S E R T E X P A N S E S A N D T O W E R I N G R I V E R C A N Y O N S , B I G B E N D N AT I O N A L P A R K I S T H E K I N G O F T E X A S ’ N AT I O N A L P U B L I C A R E A S .
fun fact
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In 1964, Apollo astronauts came to Big Bend to study volcanic geology so that they could identify the geologic structures and processes that they might see on the moon.
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SET
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•
night sky-friendly lighting. Also, a newly rehabbed porch at the lodge serving outdoor meals is ready to serve day visitors and campers alike. With over 150 miles of back-country dirt roads and 200 miles of trails, walking, hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding are all popular options for exploring the park. Some of the more popular hikes include the Window View Trail in the Chisos Basin, which is wheelchair accessible and perfect for a mountain sunset; Rio Grande Village Nature Trail, which offers some of the best birding in the region; and the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Trail at Dugout Wells, featuring native plant life identified along this half-mile path. The 118 miles of the Rio Grande that border the park wind through the Santa Elena, Boquillas and Mariscal Canyons. A river trip by raft, canoe or kayak is an unforgettable way to encounter the remote wilderness of Big Bend. Leisurely half-day floats to multiday camping trips are available. Santa Elena is the most popular outfitter trip with dramatic 1,500-foot canyon walls. Boquillas is a two-night/three-day trip on average but great for families with its Class II or less rapids at average water levels and many side hiking opportunities. There are three developed campgrounds in the park: Chisos Basin Campground, Rio
LEE HOY
m
FE AT UR ES sites and ruins are numerous. Opportunities for Big Bend apart solitude are many. from its national Big Bend National Park is also arguably the park brethren, in- most ecologically diverse park in the entire nacluding the fact that tional parks system. It is known to have more speit is the only one to contain an entire mountain cies of birds, plants, butterflies, bats, reptiles and range — the Chisos — within its borders. Dedi- even ants, than any other U.S. national park. cated in 1944, the park is nestled in the bend of the Rio Grande River along the Texas-Mexico CHOOSE YOUR OWN border where outstanding examples of Chihua- ADVENTURE huan Desert topography and ecology beckon na- The Chisos Mountains offer high-elevation ture enthusiasts from around the world. hiking, with trails for all skill levels. The famed A land of contrasts, Big Bend contains geo- South Rim has both a dramatic drop-off and an logical marvels, historic and prehistoric treasures unobstructed view to the horizon line on a clear and an amazing diversity of plant and animal day. Boot Canyon contains the largest trees in life across its dramatic range the park and some of the largest Odessa GUADALUPE of elevations. From its lowof their species in the country. MTS. NP est point of 1,850 feet in Rio Emory Peak Trail has undergone Grande Village to Emory Peak a complete reroute and has draVan Horn at 7,825 feet, the park presents immatic new views of both the south Alpine pressive changes in climate, with temand north sides of the mountain. peratures in the desert routinely 10 to 20 Birding is excellent in the moundegrees warmer than in the mountains. tains, especially in the spring and BIG BEND NP Desert opportunities abound. Numerous fall. Spring sees the arrival of the Colima trails — from short and very well developed to Warbler. The only place that this bird is long, rugged and remote — offer exceptional found in the U.S. is in the Chisos Mountains. views. Back-country roads lead to private back- Campers in the Chisos Basin will enjoy developcountry camping sites available for both drive-in ment boosts, including a newly rehabbed campand backpacking options with a permit. Historic ground with much improved facilities and new, ANY
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Grande Village Campground and Cottonwood Campground, all with water, restrooms and some with primitive shelters. There is also an RV park at Rio Grande Village, the only location in the park with full hookups. Public showers and laundry facilities are available at the Rio Grande Village Store. Most of the campsites operate on a first-come-first-served basis and fill up quickly in March, April and during the holiday season.
BOQUILLAS, MEXICO The Boquillas Border Crossing has been re-opened after being closed for more than 10 years. This pedestrian-only crossing between the United States and Mexico adds a new layer of fun and adventure to a Big Bend National Park visit. The crossing offers a unique opportunity to ride across the river in a rowboat. Current posted hours to re-enter the U.S. are 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., Friday through Monday (summer hours). Winter hours are 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday. Bring your passport. Learn more at www.boquillas.org and www.nps.gov.
PLAN YOUR TRIP The Chisos Basin Lodge can be reached at 432477-2291 or www.chisosmountainslodge.com. A limited number of sites in Rio Grande Village and Chisos Basin allow advance reservations from Nov. 15 to Apr. 15. Call 877-444-6777 or reserve online at www.recreation.gov. Visit www.nps.gov/bibe or call 432-4772251 for more i nformation. ENTRANCE For a full list of FEES Big Bend area Vehicle: $30 for a 7-day activities, go to pass good at any park w w w.visitbigentrance bend.com (the $25 per motorcycle Individual: most complete $15 for a 7-day pass reference source Annual Pass: $55 for all things Allows unlimited entry greater Big Bend for one year from month and Brewster of purchase. County).
CAMPGROUND FEES
LEE HOY
The nightly fee for camping in one of the developed front-country campgrounds is $14. Individual back-country campsites require a $12 permit, which can only be acquired at one of the park’s visitor centers in person. Special rates apply to commercial and non-commercial groups, as well as interagency officials, seniors and the permanently disabled. Inquire at the ranger station or call (432) 477-2251.
EVENTS NATIONAL PUBLIC LANDS DAY SEPT. 29, 2018; SEPT. 28, 2019
National Public Lands Day is a nationwide celebration of our country’s public lands. Held the last weekend of September each year, the event brings thousands of people to parks across the country. BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 19
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Don’t Miss in Big Bend • SANTA ELENA CANYON: Visible for more than 10 miles, this iconic area of Big Bend features dramatic limestone canyon walls created over time by the mighty Rio Grande. • HOT SPRINGS HISTORIC DISTRICT: After an adventurous day in the park, soak your tired bones here, where the water remains at 105 degrees Fahrenheit year-round. • PANTHER JUNCTION VISITOR CENTER: This is a must-stop for first-time visitors and those who haven’t been in a while. Get all fees, permits, maps and more here, and take a break to check out the new 22-minute ondemand film detailing the wonders of the park. • FOSSIL DISCOVERY EXHIBIT: This brand-new exhibit (opened January 2017) explores the area’s paleontological and geological past, complete with replicas of fossils found within the park.
and view of the desert terrain, and Mule Ears, the perfect viewing area for another iconic sight in the park. A hiking trail to the formation starts from here as well.
• HIKING: With over 150 miles of hiking trails, Big Bend is a hiker’s paradise. Two highlights: the Lost Mine Trail, which is medium difficulty and offers breathtaking views beginning midway, and the Window View Trail, which is worth the effort to catch a glorious Big Bend sunset through the “window” in the Chisos Basin.
• BALANCED ROCK ON THE GRAPEVINE HILLS TRAIL: This unusual formation — a giant boulder inexplicably balanced between two gigantic rounded rocks — is a favorite spot for selfies.
CHISOS BASIN AREA: This mountainous area in the center of the park is the most popular portion, though some overlook it. The park’s only hotel and restaurant are in this area, which is usually cooler than the surrounding desert, even during the summer months.
Make the most of your visit to Big Bend National Park with a complimentary guided audio tour using your smartphone. Search “Just Ahead” in the App Store or on Google Play and look for the free “Big Bend” guide.
• ROSS MAXWELL SCENIC DRIVE: This paved, 30-mile scenic drive showcases some of the best views in the park. There are many stops along the way but don’t miss Sol Vista with its satisfying overlook
LEE HOY
• BOQUILLAS, MEXICO: A side trip into “old” Mexico is a worthwhile addition to visiting the Big Bend. Just be sure to bring your passport.
• RAFTING THE RIO GRANDE: Local outfitters provide guided trips along the Rio Grande, giving a whole new perspective to Big Bend National Park.
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GUADALUPE Mountains N AT I O N A L PA R K
COURTESY TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION
. . . C O U L D E A S I LY B E D E S C R I B E D A S O N E O F A M E R I C A’ S B E S T- K E P T S E C R E T S .
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OCATED NORTH of Van Horn on the Texas-New Mexico border, the 86,416 acres of Guadalupe Mountains National Park (GMNP) represent some of the most varied and beautiful hiking trails in all of Texas. With elevations in the park ranging from 3,689 feet at the gypsum dunes to the west of the Guadalupe Mountains to the highest peak in Texas, Guadalupe Peak, at 8,751 feet, visitors are treated to a tremendous diversity of native plants and animals. With 46,850 acres of designated wilderness, and an additional 35,484 acres which are eligible for wilderness study, GMNP preserves the largest wilderness area in the state of Texas. Established on Sept. 30, 1972, GMNP is part of the Guadalupe Mountains range, which
stretches from Carlsbad, New Mexico, to the the Glass Mountains, near Alpine, as well as the salt flats and gypsum dunes just east of Dell Apache Mountains. In the Pine Springs Visitor City. Those gypsum dunes are the second largest Center (5,013 feet in elevation), educational vidin the U.S. and third largest Odessa eos and exhibits shed light on the GUADALUPE geologic history of the park. Othin North America and the MTS. NP er exhibits showcase the abundant world after White Sands Naand diverse plant life and wildlife. tional Monument, New Mexico Van Horn Visitors may join a park ranger and Cuatrocienegas Natural ProAlpine for an interpretive talk or walk on tected Area (Coahuila, Mexico). one the park’s trails. Guadalupe Peak, and the surroundDiscover the cultural hising Guadalupe Mountains, are part of an BIG BEND NP tory of the park at one of the heritage ancient marine fossil reef that was under the vast sites, such as the recently restored Frijole Delaware inland sea 260–270 million years ago. It is regarded as one of the world’s best examples Ranch House, Williams Ranch, Pratt Cabin, of Middle Permian geology, attracting geolo- remnants of Buffalo Soldier encampments or gists from around the world. In addition to the the Pinery Butterfield Overland Stage staGuadalupe Mountains, the 400-mile, horse- tion. Explore the natural beauty and grandeur shoe-shaped El Capitán Reef is now exposed in along the hiking trails, taking in views of ev-
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erything from harsh desert landscapes to lush streamside woodlands rich in oaks and maples. Perhaps the most popular attraction is the brilliant fall display of red, orange and yellow bigtooth maples in McKittrick Canyon, which peaks in late October. Fall color displays may also be seen at Smith Springs, Devil’s Hall and Dog Canyon. Families with children will find Junior Ranger, Senior Ranger, Wilderness Explorer Junior Ranger, Junior Ranger Night Explorer and Junior Paleontologist programs chock full of ageappropriate activities. The park website (www.nps. gov/gumo/) provides a schedule of park activities and updates on fall color showings to aid travelers in planning their visits.
EXPLORE THE GUADALUPES A hiker’s paradise, GMNP boasts more than 80 miles of trails, meandering through woodland canyons and lush riparian springs, as well as those zigzagging up steep switchbacks through the park’s rugged wilderness to Guadalupe Peak, Bush Mountain, The Bowl, Bear Canyon, Pine Top, McKittrick Ridge, Shumard Canyon, Hunter Peak, Dog Canyon and the distinctive El Capitán (which, at 8,085 feet above sea level, is an imposing sentinel at the west end of the Guadalupes). There are two short, easy hikes — the 0.4-mile Manzanita Spring Trail or the 0.67mile Pinery Trail — both of which are paved and wheelchair accessible. Moderate trails, such
as McKittrick Canyon (4.8-6.8 miles, depending on the route), are available, as well as strenuous trails, such as the Guadalupe Peak Trail (8.4 miles) or The Bowl (9.3 miles). These trails require several hours and ample supplies, including at least one gallon of water per person per day (one quart per hour if it is hot). Trekking poles are recommended. Sixty percent of the park’s trails are available for horseback riding, though visitors must bring their own stock. Either by foot or horse, the park is a place to discover fossils and explore geologic and human history, observe native wildlife, view colorful wildflowers, capture great photos, create paintings or simply gaze into the wondrous, star-filled night sky.
EXPERIENCE WEST TEXAS HISTORY Discover the park’s Native American, cavalry (including the Buffalo Soldiers) and pioneer ranching history at one of the well-preserved historic sites. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Frijole Ranch History
FEES AND PASSES
Museum features the homes and outbuildings of various Guadalupe Mountains Anglo settlers, including National Park annual passes the Smith family who operare $20 and cover up to four ated their small truck farm adult entrance fees. Sevenand orchard from 1906 to day permits are available at a 1942. The Pinery is one of rate of $5 per adult. Children the best-preserved and highunder age 16 are free. Campest staging outposts on the ing permits are $8 per site. Campers can pay cash at the Butterfield-Overland Route, self-registration board near which ran from St. Louis and the restroom or by credit Memphis to San Francisco card at the Pine Springs from 1858 until the outbreak Visitors Center. America the of the Civil War. The Pinery Beautiful Annual Passes may station ceased operations be purchased for $80 and are in August 1859, when the good for entry, as well as othroute was shifted southward er services and discounts at to give it better protection federal public lands. Lifetime from raids and provide betAmerica the Beautiful Senior Passes (for U.S. citizens or ter access to water. Hikers permanent residents age 62 in McKittrick Canyon may or older) may be purchased visit Pratt Cabin. for $10 and lifetime America Park visitors with a 4x4 the Beautiful Access Passes vehicle and lust for adventure are available free of charge to can visit the historic Williams U.S. citizens and permanent Ranch, one of the earliest residents with a qualifying park homesteads with a wellpermanent disability. Free documented, albeit colorful, America the Beautiful Milihistory. Before traveling that tary Passes may be obtained by active-duty military perway, stop by the Pine Springs sonnel and dependents. Visitor Center to check out a gate key and be aware that the drive, though only a little over seven miles, takes about an hour. Guadalupe Mountains National Park has two frontcountry campgrounds, Pine Springs and Dog Canyon, a group campground and group picnic area at Frijole Ranch and 10 back-country campgrounds spread throughout the park. Obtain back-country camping permits at the Pine Springs Visitors Center daily between 8 a.m. and 4:15 p.m. Entrance fees can be paid at any of the trail heads. Simply fill out the fee envelope and deposit at any trail head collection safe (the “iron ranger”). Display your detachable stub on your vehicle dashboard. Before you venture into the back country or before you leave to go back home, make sure to visit the GMNP bookstore in the Pine Springs Visitor Center to purchase a variety of books about the park, maps or postcards. If you would like to spend more time helping the park directly, inquire about the park’s Volunteers In Parks (VIP) program. For more information about Guadalupe Mountains National Park, visit www.nps.gov/gumo/ or call 915-828-3251 ext. 2124 for updated information. ADDITIONAL INFO SOURCES:
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Facebook: www.facebook.com/Guadalupe. Mountains/ Twitter: twitter.com/GuadalupeMtnsNP/ Meetup: www.meetup.com/Guadalupe-Mountains-National-Park-Meetup-Group/
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STATE
FROM TOP: LEE HOY, GARY NORED
PA R K S
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HE STATE PA RKS and State Historic Sites of the Big Bend and Texas
Mountains region showcase a panorama of West Texas scenes. From gushing spring waters to lofty, mile-high peaks, from the harsh grandeur of Chihuahuan Desert landscapes to museum-quality exhibits, Texas State Parks offer something for every taste. Here you will find safe, secure and wholesome environments for camping, picnicking, hiking, fishing, stargazing, hunting, rock climbing, cycling, boating, floating, birding, swimming, horseback riding, interpretive programming or peace and quiet. Please stop in for a visit. You’ll be glad you did!
BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK Presidio
The largest state park in Texas, with over 300,000 acres of Chihuahuan Desert wilderness, the park embraces some of the
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most remote and rugged terrain in the Southwest. Mountain bikers, hikers and equestrians enjoy miles of trails that traverse “the other side of nowhere.”
Presidio (432) 358-4444 (512) 389-8919 (reservations) www.tpwd.state.tx.us/bigbendranch BARTON WARNOCK VISITOR CENTER Terlingua/Lajitas
The Center serves as the eastern entrance to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Exhibits interpret 570 million years of geologic history and the five biological landscapes of the Chihuahuan Desert. It was named for famed botanist and 33-year Sul Ross State University professor Dr. Barton Warnock (1911–1998).
Lajitas (432) 424-3327 www.tpwd. state.tx.us/bartonwarnock BALMORHEA STATE PARK Toyahvale
may choose to relax in one of the historic rooms at San Solomon Courts.
Toyahvale (432) 375-2370 (512) 389-8900 (reservations) www.tpwd.state.tx.us/balmorhea
COURTESY TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION
At 77,053 square feet, San Solomon Spring is the focal point of Balmorhea State Park. Twenty-two to 28 million gal-
lons of crystalline water flow from the spring each day. Visitors to Balmorhea State Park enjoy swims in the Civilian Conservation Corps-constructed impoundment and, if staying overnight,
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DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE PARK Fort Davis
Davis Mountains State Park, 2,708.9 acres in size, is located in Jeff Davis County, four miles northwest of Fort Davis, approximately halfway between Guadalupe Mountains National Park and Big Bend National Park. The original portion of the park was deeded to the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department by a local family. Original improvements were made by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1933; the park has been open to the public since the late 1930s, and formal campground facilities were added in 1967. The Davis Mountains, the most extensive mountain range in Texas, were formed by volcanic activity during the Tertiary geologic period, which began around 65 million years ago. These mountains were named after Jefferson Davis, U.S. secretary of war and later president of the Confederacy, who ordered the construction of the Fort Davis army post. Few Americans had seen the Davis Mountains prior to 1846. After the war with Mexico, a wave of gold seekers, settlers and traders came through the area and needed the protection of a military post - Fort Davis. Fort Davis was active from 1854 until 1891, except for certain periods during the Civil War. In 1961, the historic fort ruins were declared a National Historic Site, and a vast restoration/preservation program was initiated by the National Park Service.
Fort Davis (432) 426-3337 www.tpwd.state. tx.us/state-parks/davis-mountains FORT LEATON STATE HISTORIC SITE Presidio
Fort Leaton is day-use only and offers picnicking areas, tours through newly restored and furnished rooms, plus exhibits on the region’s history: from 15th-century conquistadors to Ben Leaton’s 19thcentury trading post to the present. The fort also serves as the western entrance for Big Bend Ranch State Park.
Four miles east of Presidio on F.M. 170 (432) 229-3613 www.tpwd.state.tx.us/fortleaton
COURTESY TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION
TEXAS STATE PARKS PASS The Texas State Parks Pass is an annual pass that offers many special benefits to members. As a member, you and your guests enjoy unlimited visits to Texas State Parks, State Natural Areas and State Historic Sites without paying the daily entrance fees. The cost is $70 for a one-card membership. Learn more at: www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/parkinfo/ passes/ VISIT: WWW.TPWD.TEXAS.GOV/ STATE-PARKS/ TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE OTHER AREA PARKS AND PARKS ACROSS THE STATE OF TEXAS.
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fun fact Alpine is the largest city in the largest county in the largest state in the contiguous United States.
ALPINE T h e u n i q u e g e o g r a p h i c l o c aTi o n n e s T l e d b e T w e e n T h r e e m o u n Ta i n r a n g e s g i v e s a l p i n e o n e o f T h e m os T ag r e e a b l e c l i m aT e s i n T e x a s : wa r m , s u n n y wi n T e r days a n d c o o l s u m m e r n i g h T s .
ADAM HOLMES/COURTESY VISIT ALPINE
t
HE ARE A TH AT would one day be Alpine had been a campsite for cattlemen until a town of tents was created, consisting of railroad workers and their families. They called their tiny settlement Murphyville, and it remained as such for five years until a petition by townspeople rendered a name change. At the time Murphyville became Alpine, there were already a dozen houses, three saloons, a hotel, a rooming house, a livery stable, a butcher shop and a drugstore, which also housed the post office. Alpine grew very slowly until Sul Ross Normal College (now Sul Ross State University) was opened in 1920. The opening of Big Bend National Park in the 1940s further spurred the growth of the town. Nowadays, the high desert country, mountain ranges and access to the Rio Grande are only a few of the natural wonders that make Alpine
Odessa by a car several years ago. He now a popular destination. GUADALUPE MTS. NP serves as an important teaching Situated within the great tool to the kids of the greater Big Chihuahuan Desert between Van Horn Bend area. Big Bend National Park and the ALPINE No matter what brings you Davis Mountains, Alpine, with its here, Alpine is a great staging place tree-lined streets and university, is at for any far West Texas adventure. the center of the Big Bend region. BIG BEND There are ample lodging and dinAs such, it serves as the transportation NP ing opportunities. See cowboys competing and service hub for far West Texas. In addition at rodeo events, watch professional baseball to the general aviation airport, Alpine-Casparis Municipal Airport, there is an Amtrak station in a historic ballpark and see summer theater proand access to the area via Greyhound bus lines, ductions under a roof of stars. The Texas Cowboy Poetry Gathering, Trappings of Texas, Artwalk, delivering visitors to all Alpine has to offer. The Museum of the Big Bend at Sul Ross Viva Big Bend and Big Bend Ranch Rodeo are is a favorite stop. For more than 70 years, the just five of the most popular annual events. But, perhaps, what will keep you coming museum has collected and exhibited artifacts of the region, showcasing 11,000 years of hu- back is the nearly idyllic climate. At 4,600 feet man history and culture. Kids will enjoy seeing and perfectly situated between the Davis, Glass the large pterosaur reproduction and meeting and Del Norte Mountains, you’ll be hard-pressed “Big Ben,” a taxidermic, native black bear. The to find more moderate, year-round temperatures museum came to have him after he was struck in all of Texas.
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Attractions A HISTORIC WALKING AND WINDSHIELD TOUR Take a leisurely stroll or drive around Alpine’s downtown for a glimpse of architectural history. A copy of the walking tour guide and map is available at the Alpine Visitors Center located at 106 N. 3rd St. www.visitalpinetx.com
B SUL ROSS STATE UNIVERSITY graduate class size of just 20 students, it’s the perfect setting for pursuing an associate, bachelor’s or master’s degree in Liberal Arts, Science, Fine Arts or any number of Professional Studies programs, such as Business Administration or Criminal Law. www.sulross.edu
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MUSEUM OF THE BIG BEND
Located on the Sul Ross campus, the museum’s permanent exhibits explore the natural and human history of the region, honoring the contributions of Native Americans, as well as Spanish, Mexican and Anglo-American settlers. From April through May, the museum hosts the nationally recognized Trappings of Texas exhibit and sale. (See the website for exact dates.) Tuesday–Saturday, 9 a.m. –5 p.m., Sunday, 1–5 p.m. www.museumofthebigbend.com.
ALPINE COUNTRY CLUB GOLF COURSE Next to Kokernot Park, this nine-hole course is popular with visitors and residents alike. Cart rental and concessions are available.
PERFORMING ARTS AND LIVE ENTERTAINMENT Alpine offers a variety of stage performances and live entertainment throughout the year. The Theatre of the Big Bend features outdoor summer productions under the stars and against the backdrop of West Texas at Kokernot Park. And around town each week, live music events from open-mic nights to touring shows keep the nights lively. www.sulross.edu/tobbEvents
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KOKERNOT FIELD
For baseball enthusiasts, Kokernot Field will take your breath away. Styled after the famous Wrigley Field, this baseball diamond was built in the 1940s for the semi-pro Alpine Cowboys. The landmark stadium is now home to a recent professional incarnation of the team, also called the Alpine Cowboys.
ALPINE’S MURALS Alpine boasts a growing collection of colorful murals celebrating regional themes. In addition to “Big Brewster” by Stylle Read (a long-time landmark at the Kiowa Gallery) and a handful of other murals decorating the walls of downtown businesses, Alpine’s Artwalk (www.artwalkalpine.com) has recently commissioned three new large-scale paintings executed by Read.
E COUNTY COURTHOUSE HALL OF HISTORY Take a walk through the great hall in the Brewster County Courthouse and step back through the years. On display are photographs from early Alpine and the surrounding area.
F HISTORIC MURPHY STREET
Murphy Street, one block south of the railroad tracks, has gone through a revitalization. Visit the shops and restaurants and explore the deep history of Alpine.
HANCOCK HILL / “THE DESK” Located immediately behind Sul Ross State University is Hancock Hill (it’s the one with the big “SR” on it!). Owned by the University but open to the public, Hancock Hill is a great place to hike for panoramic views of Alpine. If you’re up for exploring, on the eastern edge there is a desk which overlooks the valley below. It may be hard to find if you don’t know where you’re going, so if you need directions, stop by the Alpine visitor center.
Events ARTWALK Alpine’s biggest festival for the arts spans two days in November to showcase a variety of art exhibitions in many local businesses, all against a backdrop of festivities and live music through the evenings. (432) 837-3067 www.artwalkalpine.com
DANA JONES/COURTESY VISIT ALPINE
Established in 1920, the university’s picturesque campus overlooks Alpine and the surrounding valley. With years of history and its uniquely beautiful setting, the campus of Sul Ross is a delightful place to wander around. Many of the buildings are now designated as historic. Sul Ross is a member of the Texas State University System. With an average under-
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ALPINE COWBOYS BASEBALL With roots going back to the 1940s, the Alpine Cowboys are the community’s professional baseball team in the Pecos League. Home games held at Kokernot Field from May through July are a refreshing event, especially set against the backdrop of Alpine’s surrounding mountains. For more information go to alpine. pecosleague.com
BIG BEND RANCH RODEO The rugged, gritty workings of ranch life take center stage at this rodeo in August. Ranchers from all over the state come to test their mettle in events evoking real cowboy skills. (432) 364-2696 www.bigbendranchrodeo.com
CINCO DE MAYO A three-day weekend filled with food, crafts, dancing, a parade, a car show, music, entertainment, enchilada supper, folkloric dancers and a Gran Mercado.
TEXAS COWBOY POETRY GATHERING
TRAPPINGS OF TEXAS Trappings of Texas showcases the best of Western art and custom cowboy gear. Held in the spring at the Museum of the Big Bend on the campus of Sul Ross State University, visitors and interested buyers can meet and
visit with the artists and gear makers who have works for sale at the Museum and at the public auction fundraiser. Trappings kicks off the third weekend of April and runs through May. www.sulross.edu/museum
VIVA BIG BEND Viva Big Bend is an annual music festival held in far West Texas. Taking place the last weekend of July in Al-
J. GRIFFIS SMITH
The Texas Cowboy Poetry Gathering is a two-day event in February celebrating the oral tradition of the working cowboy in poetry, stories, and music. Enjoy more
than 50 performers in the classrooms and on the stages of Sul Ross State University in Alpine, Texas.
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North Llano
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pine, Fort Davis, Marfa and Marathon, VBB showcases more than 50 bands in 10 venues. Other events happening during VBB include an art show and kids’ activities. More details can be found at www.vivabigbend.com.
Telegraph
Shopping &
uth LlanoServices 377 er ALPINE AUTO RENTAL
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2501 E. Highway 90, (432) 837-3463 www.alpineautorental.com All the amenities of a big city car rental agency, right here in Alpine. U-HAUL trailers and trucks available.
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BIG 41 BEND REGIONAL MEDICAL CENTER
Rocksprings
2600 N. Highway 118 (432) 837-3447 www.bigbendhealthcare.com Big Bend Regional Medical Center (BBRMC) is a 25bed, joint-commission accredited, acute care facility. Big Bend Regional has a Level 4 Trauma designated Emergency Department and offers 24-hour emergency care, ICU, medical/surgical rooms, OB care, imaging, pharmacy, laboratory and surgical services.
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808 N. 5th St. (800) 592-4781, www.bigbend.net BBT (formerly Big Bend Telecom) offers internet and voice services. The service area includes Alpine, Big Bend National Park, Fort Davis, Fort Stockton, Lajitas, Marathon, Marfa, Presidio, Sanderson, Terlingua and more.
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KIOWA GALLERY 105 E. Holland Ave. (432) 837-3067 Kiowa Gallery has been serving the Big Bend for approximately 25 years with a premier collection of original paintings, pottery, jewelry and one-of-a-kind specialty gifts.
ď‚ŁHiking on Hancock Hill
cketville
THE STABLE PERFORMANCE CARS
90511 W. Holland Ave.
(432) 837-9789 www.thestablealpine.com At The Stable Performance Cars, the performance- and classic-car enthusiast has a comfortable place to visit and talk cars in a relaxed atmosphere.
Real Estate
ERICK
MTN. VIEW PROPERTIES 2100 W. Hwy 90 , 432) 837-5518 www.mtnviewproperties.com Mtn. View Properties specializes in the marketing and sale of homes in West Texas, as well as commercial and ranch properties. They also serve Presidio, Jeff Davis and Culberson Counties. As your agent and premier real estate company of choice, they will assist you from beginning to end!
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SIERRA LA RANA
2 miles south of Alpine off Hwy. 118 (866) 757-2382 www.sierralarana.com Gated Ranch Community. Own your own land! Now offering large tracts from 10 to 150 acres in a recognized international dark sky community.
Food & Drink PLAINE 215 E. Holland Ave. www.tumbleweedlaundry.com
Plaine is a full-service coffee shop serving Big Bend Coffee Roasters any way you take it. We also serve Blue Bell ice cream and all-fruit smoothies. Also, try out our laundromat next door.
BIG BEND BREWING CO. 3401 West Highway 90 www.bigbendbrewing.com Big Bend Brewing launched in 2012 and quickly became one of the leading craft brewers in Texas. Based in Alpine, the tasting room is open Thursday, Friday and Monday from 4-8 p.m. and from 1-8 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday.
J. GRIFFIS SMITH
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REATA RESTAURANT
203 N. 5th Street, (432) 837-9232 www.reata.net The world-famous Reata Restaurant has been serving legendary Texas cuisine since 1995 in Alpine. From chicken fried steak to calf fries, pepper crusted tenderloin or a cowboy rib eye, Reata is a true West Texas dining experience not to be missed.
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COME AND TAKE IT BBQ
2612 W. US Highway 90 (432) 837-4227 www.comeandtakeitbbqtx.com Come and Take It BBQ serves up traditional Texas BBQ, fine spirits, local craft beer, Texas wines, and live music inside or on our outdoor patio. Ask us about catering your next event, at our place or yours.
Lodging 5 HAMPTON INN
6 HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS & SUITES 2004 E. Hwy. 90 (432) 837-9597 www.holidayinnexpress.com Indoor pool, fitness room.
7 HOLLAND HOTEL
209 W. Holland Ave. (800) 535-8040 | (432) 837-2800 www.thehollandhoteltexas.com Recently renovated historic downtown hotel. Trost & Trost architecture.
8 THE MAVERICK INN
1200 E. Holland Ave. (432) 837-0628 www.themaverickinn.com A roadhouse for wanderers: classic motor court, completely updated for the modern traveler.
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2607 W. Hwy. 90 (432) 837-7344 www.alpine.hamptoninn.com Indoor pool/spa, fitness room.
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DEVILS RIVER STATE NATURAL AREA The Devils River State Natural Area is unique in that it is primitive and isolated. The river is one of the most ecologically intact rivers in Texas. The main attraction, the Devils Sinkhole, is a National Natural Landmark that houses one of the state’s largest colonies of Mexican free-tailed bats. All camping and facility stays are by reservation only.
VAL VERDE WINERY The oldest continuously operating winery in Texas was established in 1883 by Italian immigrant Frank Qualia. Today, the winery is still owned and operated by fourth generation wine maker Tommy Qualia. The family has been creating wine for more than 130 years producing the award-winning Don Luis Tawny Port, Muscat Canelli, Tempranillo and many others. Wine tours along with tasting are available as well as the use of the winery for weddings, concerts and gatherings.
SEMINOLE CANYON STATE PARK
DEL RIO COURTESY DEL RIO CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
DEL RIO IS HOME TO AMISTAD NATIONAL RECREATION AREA, A NATIONAL PARK TREASURE BRIMMING WITH MYSTERIOUS ANCIENT ROCK ART AND TOPOGRAPHICAL WONDERS, AND TO THE GORGEOUS VAL VERDE WINERY, PRODUCER OF PREMIUM WINES.
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AKE AMISTAD, which means friendship in Spanish, is fed by the Rio Grande, Pecos and Devils rivers, respectively, and hosts yearround water sports activities in its pristine waters. The unique rivers wind through over 100-foot canyons and converge into an expanse of clear, fresh water that offers an engaging and serene experience to visitors. Val Verde Winery, the oldest continuously operated winery in Texas, is also located in Del Rio. Established in 1883, it produces an array of wines from
The park, located 30 minutes northwest of Del Rio, boasts a plethora of unrivaled and ancient Native American pictographs inside Fate Bell Shelter. This happens to be one of the oldest cave dwellings in North America. An abundance of 4,000-year-old rock art is visible on the rugged limestone canyon walls. Additionally, in 1998, Dr. Carolyn Boyd, an artist turned archaeologist, founded Shumla, a center for area archaeological research that provides educational out-reach to students of all ages.
JUDGE ROY BEAN VISITOR CENTER Judge Roy Bean arrived in Texas during the Civil War and spent a number of years in the Alamo City, earning the location the nickname “Beanville.” Avoiding both creditors and the law, he made an escape across the Pecos River, landing at the heart of the railroad construction boom. Bean established his Jersey Lilly saloon, helping to stir an already roiling pot of lawlessness, before capturing the position of Odessa justice of the peace. Today, the Jersey Lilly and the opera house Bean built combine to create the Judge Roy Bean Visitor Center.
the white Viognier to the GUADALUPE MTS. NP red Sangiovese. Stops at Seminole Canyon State Park Van Horn and the Judge Roy Bean Visitor Alpine Center in Langtry are also highly DEL RIO recommended. Both are short drives from Del Rio. In addition, discover KICKAPOO CAVERNS BIG BEND NP our First Friday Art Walks, Whitehead STATE PARK Memorial and Laughlin Heritage Museums, The park offers picnic sites, hiking, relish our Fiesta Celebrations throughout the mountain biking, bird-watching, cave tours, year and enjoy a round of golf next to beautiful San and evening bat flight viewing during the Felipe Creek and don’t forget to check out all our season. The park includes 20 known caves. events at drchamber.com! Tours offered on Saturdays by reservation.
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HUECO TANKS STATE HISTORIC SITE World renowned for rock climbing, Hueco Tanks is also known for its many Native American rock paintings and unique geology. Pictograph tours are offered, and you can also hike, camp and picnic on the grounds. Call 915-857-1135 before visiting. Annual Events: Hueco Rock Rodeo (February) Hueco Interpretive Fair (October)
FRANKLIN MOUNTAINS STATE PARK Hike, bike or run the rugged terrain of this 37-square-mile state park that sits in the middle of the city. Annual Events: Puzzler Mountain Bike Race (January) Lone Star 100 Trail Run (February) Poppies Festival (March) Coyote Classic Mountain Bike Race (April) Franklin Mountains Trail Run (November)
WYLER AERIAL TRAMWAY
With the largest urban state parks in the u.s. right in the heart of the city, you don’t have to go far to start your experience!
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the sun rise over a picturesque mountain backdrop, a city brimming with adventure comes to life. El Paso curves around a still-wild terrain of mountains and foothills that promise, after a short climb or a cable-car ride on a Swiss-made gondola, a breathtaking panoramic view. Fresh-air excursions alone can give you plenty of reasons to get up and go. Add 315 days of sun to the equation and you can S YOU WATCH
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EL PASO live a Hemingway GUADALUPE MTS. NP novel in about a Odessa week — unless you’d Van Horn rather use all that sunAlpine shine to relax by a pool. El Paso’s native friendliness, warm sunshine BIG BEND and untamed mountains will NP make your trip here the absolute opposite of a themed, fabricated experience. You Better El Paso Up!
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ZIN VALLE WINERY Spend the day at Zin Valle and experience their complimentary wine tasting, venture into the barrel room or simply enjoy a glass or bottle of wine on the patio or picnic while looking over the Zinfandel vineyard and the Franklin Mountains.
FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: MYKE HERMSMEYER/VISIT EL PASO; DEVON BALET; COURTESY VISIT EL PASO
EL PASO
The tramway offers a view of 7,000 square miles, two countries and three states from the 5,632-foot elevation at the southern edge of the Franklin Mountains.
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Attractions MCDONALD OBSERVATORY
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A world leader in astronomical research, McDonald Observatory atop Mts. Locke and Fowlkes benefits from some of the darkest night skies in the nation. The Frank N. Bash Visitor Center is the starting point for tours and hosts Star Parties on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday evenings. Interactive educational exhibits can be found at the visitor center along with a gift shop stocked with unique and educational keepsakes. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. with self-guided tours available until 5 p.m. Daytime programs are at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. www.mcdonaldobservatory.org
DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE PARK & INDIAN LODGE
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DAVIS TAKE A STEP BACK IN TIME AND TRAVEL TO A PLACE RICH IN HISTORY — A PLACE WHERE THE OLD WEST MEETS MODERN AMENITIES, AND THERE’S NOT A SINGLE STOPLIGHT!
TOP TO BOTTOM: LEE HOY; TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION
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Davis Mountains Calvary — African-American soldiers who became and surrounded by unspoiled known as Buffalo Soldiers. Fort Davis soon became vistas of the Chihuahuan Des- a major military installment, and the town grew right ert, the charming little town alongside it, boasting a dairy, lumberyard, bakery, furof Fort Davis feels far removed niture store, several hotels, a mercantile and saloons. Even after the fort closed, the community of from the rest of the world. The town stretches just one mile Fort Davis grew as a ranching center and by the early with most of the family-owned businesses centered 1900s attracted wealthy vacationers from the Gulf around the county courthouse and along the main Coast seeking the mild climate of the high desert during the summer. The intrigustreet (Highway 118). It has the feel GUADALUPE MTS. NP ing history of the area drew more of a western frontier town offering Odessa tourists with the designation of the a retreat to a simpler past and a chance Van Horn fort as a National Historic Site in to soak in the natural surrounding beauty, FORT DAVIS 1961. Many of its buildings have abundant wildlife and rich history of the area. been restored, making it one of the Fort Davis takes its name from the miliAlpine best surviving examples of a frontary post established there in 1854 along the San BIG BEND tier military post in the Southwest. Antonio-El Paso Road. The fort was manned by comNP Stargazers, birdwatchers, cyclists and hikers panies of the 8th U.S. Infantry to protect immigrants, have also sought out the “Highest Town in freighters and mail coaches from raids by Apache and Comanche Indians in the area. Starting in 1867, Texas” for access to the McDonald Observatory and the fort was home to four companies of the 9th U.S. Davis Mountain State Park/Indian Lodge. IGH IN THE
Located four miles north of Fort Davis, this 2,700-acre park offers camping, hiking, picnicking and nature study. Four miles of hiking trails connect to Fort Davis National Historic Site, and two scenic overlooks provide the perfect spots for star gazing. Day and overnight equestrian use is offered. Within the park, the historic, pueblo-style Indian Lodge, built in 1933 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, has a swimming pool, restaurant and gift shop. The park is open yearround, and full RV hookups are available.
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CHIHUAHUAN DESERT NATURE CENTER
www.cdri.org, (432) 364-2499 The 507-acre Nature Center, an affiliate of the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute, features 20 acres of botanical gardens, a cactus and succulent greenhouse with over 150 species of plants, nearly five miles of hiking trails, includ-
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E SCENIC LOOP DRIVE
A 75-mile drive on the highest public highway in Texas starts in Fort Davis and winds past the Davis Mountain State Park, McDonald Observatory, Mount Livermore, Sawtooth Mountain and the Rock Pile. The route is also ideal for cycling with plenty of spots to rest and picnic including a large, pine-shaded area with tables in Madera Canyon.
F THE OVERLAND TRAIL MUSEUM On the historic San Antonio-El Paso Road, the museum has displays and photographs depicting early life on the western frontier and features a restored pioneer kitchen and early medical equipment. Open Tue.–Sat. 1–5 p.m, Sundays 2–4 p.m.
G HISTORIC JEFF DAVIS COUNTY COURTHOUSE Designed by the architectural firm of l. L. Thurman and Co. of Dallas, this building was erected in 1910–1911. 2011 marked the 100th anniversary of this concrete and stone Classical Revival edifice, featuring a massive portico, Doric columns, alternating horizontal bands of pink rusticated stone made of locally quarried materials and a Beaux Arts-style clock tower.
Events TEXAS STAR PARTY Hosted at the Historic Prude Ranch, which is a 3500acre, mile-high ranch. The event includes local tours, talks and evening programs. The next Texas Star Party will be held April 28-May 5, 2019. www.texasstarparty.org
CYCLEFEST Hosted by the Permian Basin Bicycle Association, Cyclefest has been based in Fort Davis for some 40 years. Cyclefest is a fun ride for anyone, held the third weekend in September. www.pbbatx.com
FRONTIER CHRISTMAS WEEKEND Always the first full weekend of December, festivities include a Christmas tree lighting, a parade, visits with Santa and a Christmas tree hunt. www.fortdavis.com
THE “COOLEST” 4TH OF JULY Fort Davis provides a true slice of Americana in this annual small-town July 4 celebration dubbed the “coolest” in Texas thanks to the mountain temperatures and year-round dry climate. The community event — which draws visitors from all over — features a parade, an old-fashioned gun fight, a 5K run, an apple pie and empanada contest, a pet contest, an array of vendors and a dance under the stars.
DAVIS MOUNTAINS HUMMINGBIRD CELEBRATION A four-day birding experience that offers field trips to unique birding habitats, guest speaking events, workshops, garden tours, banding demonstrations and an outdoor banquet. Held in late August, birders and people who just love hummingbirds can explore the fascinating geology, flora and hummingbirds of the Davis Mountains Sky Islands. To register go to www.fortdavis.com.
Lodging HOTEL LIMPIA 101 Memorial Square (800) 662-5517 www.hotellimpia.com
FORT DAVIS INN & R.V. PARK 2201 Texas 17 (800) 80-DAVIS www.fortdavisinn.com
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MOUNTAIN TRAILS LODGE
501 S. Highway 118 (800) 403-3484 www.mountaintrailslodge.com Lodge and retreat center just south of town. Private porches with views of the Chihuahuan Desert, birds and wildlife. Dark sky friendly outdoor lighting ideal
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ing about one and a half miles within the gardens, a geologic timeline with rock samples from the region, a Heritage Mining Exhibit, and the Powell Visitor Center, which includes exhibits and a gift shop. Modesta Canyon has a year-round spring, and Clayton’s Overlook has an impressive geologic display. There is a new bird blind with a 30 foot water feature, and shelter with side screens for additional viewing and photography. CDRI’s main fundraiser is a chuck wagon cookout and auction, which takes place in August. Located four miles SE of Fort Davis on Hwy. 118, the center is open 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Sat., and Sundays 12:30–5:30 p.m. (mid-March through October).
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600 N. State St. (432) 426-2024 www.KingLandWater.com Offering unparalleled service for buyers and sellers of ranches, unique homes, and conservation properties throughout the Lone Star State. Our experience is as vast as the landscape around us.
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HEBERT’S HEIRLOOMS & RESALE 1250 N. State St. (432) 426-3141 hebertsheirlooms@yahoo.com
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Attractions A FORT STOCKTON VISITOR CENTER Located in the renovated Kansas City, Mexico and Orient Railroad Depot, the Visitor Center provides information on local and regional attractions. The surrounding grounds house interpretive displays on Comanche Springs, Buffalo Soldiers, early pioneers, vaqueros and Comanche Indians. Also located at the Center is the operational Pecos County/Fort Stockton Renewable Energy Park, featuring wind and solar power generation that supplies energy for operations at the Visitor Center. 1000 Railroad Avenue (432) 336-2264 www.historicfortstocktontx.com
B MESA VINEYARDS WINE TASTING ROOM AT THE HISTORIC GREY MULE SALOON
HISTORIC FORT STOCKTON DRIVING TOUR
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The community was originally GUADALUPE MTS. NP was established in known as Saint Gall, but the locals Odessa March 1859 as Camp changed the name to Fort Stockton in Van Horn Stockton. The army with1881. FORT drew from Texas during the Fort Stockton was incorporated STOCKTON Civil War and abandoned Fort as a city in December of 1910 and Alpine Stockton in 1861. Confederate elected its first mayor in 1911. Fort BIG BEND troops briefly occupied the site unNP Stockton is the county seat of Pecos County, til they, too, withdrew in 1862. In July the second-largest county in the state. Cover1867, Fort Stockton was re-established by four compaing nearly 5,000 square miles, Pecos County is nies of the 9th U.S. Cavalry Regiment. one of Texas’ largest energy producers combining reThe 9th was one of the new regiments organized newable energy with fossil fuels. Tourism, agriculture, after the Civil War staffed with African-American en- retail sales and the service industry are also important listed men known as Buffalo Soldiers. contributors to the local economy. ORT STOCKTON
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Beginning at the Visitor Center, the self-guided driving tour of the Historic District features 17 locations with descriptive signage and period photographs. (432) 336-2264
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Paisano Pete, located in the center of town on the corner of Main and Dickinson, is inarguably one of the most recognizable roadside attractions in the Southwest. Fort Stockton’s unofficial mascot was erected in 1980 and declared the largest roadrunner in the world, at 11 feet tall and 22 feet long. “Pete” was the idea of Mayor Gene Cummings and has been an enduring symbol of the community since his arrival. He is one of the most photographed ”birds” in the world.
BY PI3.124 (OWN WORK) [CC BY-SA 4.0 (HTTP://CREATIVECOMMONS.ORG/LICENSES/BY-SA/4.0)], VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
The historic saloon offers a perfect setting to highlight the wines of Mesa Vineyards. The tasting room offers visitors a unique experience of enjoying an evening in an adobe structure where cowboys, pioneers and outlaws once drank and watched the construction of what is now Annie Riggs Memorial Museum. Open Wednesday through Sunday (2:30 p.m.–8 p.m.). (432) 336-WINE. Available for special events and group appointments.
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SUMMER OFF THE PATIO CONCERT SERIES
G DESERT PINES MUNICIPAL GOLF COURSE
In use from 1859 to 1912, grave markers are a testament to the hard and often violent life on the early frontier.
Sponsored by the Fort Stockton Historical Society, this free, six-session summer concert series is held at the Annie Riggs Memorial Museum, off of the back porch featuring historic period- and westernthemed music. The concerts are held on Thursdays during the summer. (432) 336-2167
This 18-hole course is home to Blaine McCallister, a leading PGA touring professional. Open Tuesday– Sunday. (432) 336-2050
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This important Indian Wars fort was active from 1867 to 1886. It was strategically placed at Comanche Springs to protect the San Antonio-to-El Paso mail, freight wagons, cattle drives and immigrants. Today Historic Fort Stockton consists of four of the original buildings and reconstructed barracks housing the museum and period displays. 301 East Third Street (432) 336-2400
H JAMES ROONEY MEMORIAL PARK Home to the historic Comanche Springs Pavilion and Swimming Pool built in 1938 over the Big Chief Spring, the pool is the site of Fort Stockton’s annual Water Carnival. 208 S. Hwy 285, Pool – 200 Spring Dr. (432) 336-2751
LIVE AT ZERO STONE CONCERT SERIES Sponsored by the Fort Stockton Chamber of Commerce, this free, six-session summer concert series is held at Zero Stone Park in downtown Fort Stockton. Many types of music are celebrated, including jazz, swing and hard rock. The concerts are held every other Friday. (432) 336-2264
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F ANNIE RIGGS MEMORIAL MUSEUM
BIG BEND OPEN ROAD RACE
Built in 1899, the museum is an excellent example of Territorial architecture. The Riggs family donated the building to the Fort Stockton Historical Society in 1956 for use as a museum of the town’s wild and colorful history with displays featuring area geology, archeology and pioneer life. 301 S. Main. (432) 336-2167
Fort Stockton is the starting point for this “most challenging open road race in the world” held the last Saturday in April along Highway 285 to Sanderson. This event draws hundreds to the area and offers excitement for all ages. Contact: (432) 336-2264 www.bborr.com
FALL FESTIVAL Held the first weekend of October, the Fall Festival is a weekend of fun-filled events including arts & crafts booths, food booths, kids activities, wine emporium, goat roping, and team roping. (432) 336-2264
Fort Stockton FORT STOCKTON WATER CARNIVAL
OLD FORT DAYS Held annually on the historic fort grounds the third weekend in October, Old Fort Days brings history to life with period re-enactors and demonstrations. Military units representing the periods of occupation of Fort Stockton are represented, as are the civilian population that lived near the historic fort. Demonstrations of skills needed to survive during the early settlement of the Southwest are presented as well as military demonstrations of infantry, cavalry and artillery skills. (432) 336-2400
The Fort Stockton Water Carnival tradition began back in 1936, when Comanche Springs flowed freely and Texas was celebrating its Centennial. The annual event occurs the third weekend in July and includes singing, dancing, water ballet performances and the crowning of Ms. Fort Stockton. Held at Comanche Springs Pool and Pavilion, the three-day event 18continues to be run by local volunteers. (432) 336-2264
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LAJITAS Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park, Lajitas boasts a colorful history with a cast of infamous characters, beginning with giant marine reptiles and dinosaurs that roamed these parts over 65 million years ago according to fossils discovered in the vicinity. For centuries, Native Americans traveled through these parts along the Comanche Trail. Spanish explorer Antonio de Espejo used this historic river crossing, also known as Paso Lajitas or San Carlos Ford, in 1588. By the mid-1800s, AngloAmericans had made their way to this remote location, eventually discovering quicksilver in the 1890s. The area’s booming mines led to the Lajitas Trading Post, which served workers and UCKED BET W EEN
community, and by the mid-1980s, handled goods and mateGUADALUPE MTS. NP the western-themed resort was born, rial coming from Mexico. Odessa complete with a nine-hole golf course, The early 20th century Van Horn several lodging options and an airbrought a public school, church strip. During this time, the quaint and U.S. post office to the small community also included an unexcommunity of Lajitas. In 1916, the Alpine pected attraction: Clay Henry III, a arrival of Mexican Revolutionary genLAJITAS BIG BEND NP beer-drinking goat who even served a eral Pancho Villa — a name that was either term as mayor of the West Texas town. worshipped or feared on both sides of the Rio Today, the remote vacation destination is Grande — resulted in the establishment of a military outpost to protect the strategic mining even grander, with an onsite spa, zip line course industry. General John J. “Black Jack” Pershing and an 18-hole championship golf course that made an inspection of the area along with his aide continues to be a top pick by golf and travel publications. Whether you’re drawn to the history, Lieutenant George Patton during that time. For decades afterward, the Lajitas prop- scenery or activities, there are cowboy stories erty changed owners several times before ending along with miners’ tales of drink and peril in up in the hands of Walter Mischer in 1977. The every crevice of the red rock buttes that encircle Houston entrepreneur restored and developed the the area.
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A COMMUNITY ALONG THE RIO GRANDE RIVER NAMED FOR THE SMALL FLAT ROCKS THAT BLANKET THE AREA, BORN OF ANCIENT VOLCANOES AND INLAND SEAS.
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Lodging LAJITAS GOLF RESORT 432-424-5000 www.lajitasgolfresort.com Under new ownership since 2007, this 27,000acre destination getaway features all the creature comforts and exciting adventures a visitor could want. From the Badlands Hotel to the Cavalry Post to the Boardwalk Condos, the resort boasts 101 well-appointed rooms decorated to match the remote property’s upscale Old West style.
Attractions AGAVE SPA
BLACK JACK’S CROSSING GOLF COURSE This 18-hole championship golf course designed by Ryder Cup Captain Lanny Wadkins has been voted the top Course You Can Play in Texas by the Dallas Morning News for the fourth consecutive year. The course winds through the mountains, canyon and desert, capturing the beauty and drama of the Big Bend region while offering challenging golf for all skill levels.
BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK 432-477-2251 www.nps.gov/bibe Big Bend National Park encompasses more than 800,000 acres in southwest Texas and administers approximately one-quarter of the 1,000-mile boundary that the Rio Grande forms between Mexico and the United States. The river’s southeasterly flow changes abruptly to the northeast, forming the “big bend” of the Rio Grande. The park has national significance as the largest protected area of Chihuahuan Desert topography and ecology in the United States.
EQUESTRIAN TRAIL RIDES Guided horseback rides work their
way through hilly and desert terrain, offering sweeping views of the Big Bend wilderness. Riders can enjoy sunrise or sunset excursions, as well as one-hour, twohour and half-day trail outings.
LAJITAS BOARDWALK The Lajitas Boardwalk offers a collection of interesting shops and venues to explore, including Red Rock Outfitters and Christina’s World for local and regional gifts, the Flat Rock Theater providing a cool afternoon escape and Licha’s Bakery with fresh-baked pastries.
action pistol or lever-action rifle. A combat course designed by a military veteran who served in Iraq simulates a run through an interactive environment.
SHOOTING ACTIVITIES
ZIP-LINE TOUR
The remote southwest Texas desert provides a gorgeous backdrop for a variety of shooting activities available in Lajitas. Aim at sporting clays using a 12- or 20-gauge shotgun or participate in a cowboy action shoot equipped with a shotgun, single-
A world-class zip-line tour of Quiet Canyon is a perfect way for adrenaline junkies to enjoy the breathtaking surroundings of the Big Bend area. Nine zip lines take riders from the upper canyon to the canyon floor. Three tour options available.
TOP PHOTO DENNIS MURPHY-D SQUARED PRODUCTIONS; INC.; BOTTOM PHOTOS COURTESY LAJITAS GOLF RESORT
There’s no better place to relax and unwind in the high Chihuahuan Desert than this luxurious spa on the Lajitas Golf Resort property. Sit back and enjoy a massage, facial or body treatment using herbal ingredients and stones native to the region.
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MARATHON Where the BiG Bend and dark SkieS Meet.
fun fact The Marathon Historical Museum is located at the corner of North Third and Avenue E (on the Square) in the historic “Club House,” originally the site of the first schoolhouse in Buchel-Brewster County.
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GUADALUPE Marathon Historical Museum. UST 40 MILES NORTH of the entrance MTS. NP Odessa Starting at the center of town, Post Road runs south to Big Bend National Park sits Marathon for five miles to Post Park -- the site of a former cavalry — a quaint community that boasts a delightVan Horn post known as Camp Pena Colorado in the late 1800s. ful climate, beautiful surroundings and friendly MARATHON With very little traffic and fabulous views, this stretch is people. Situated in what is known as the MagnifiAlpine ideal for running, walking and biking. Wildlife such as cent Marathon Basin and centrally located to many of deer, javelinas, turkey, jack rabbits, quail and even an octhe area’s unique attractions, Marathon hosts a range of BIG BEND NP casional fox can be seen in the early morning or around sunset. folks — from astronomers gazing at the night sky to biking Post Park itself boasts a beautiful, secluded pond and county park or birding enthusiasts to Big Bend hikers and explorers. One feature visitors can’t help but notice is the expansive on the Pena Colorado Creek shaded by cottonwood trees and surrounded starry sky over Marathon, which attracts astronomers and stargazers. by the Caballos Novaculite Mountains. The historic spot is popular in birdThanks to its remote geographic location, elevation and small size, the town ing circles as one of the few accessible sources of spring water in the Big has earned the rare distinction as an established, functional community Bend region. It also hosts the longest running community event in the Big under a “Class 1 Dark Sky.” (That’s as dark as it gets!) Though increasing Bend area: the Independence Day dance. Stunning geologic features surround Marathon, including the bluntlight pollution prevents surrounding communities from holding the same distinction, Marathon residents and businesses intentionally protect the ness of Iron Mountain to the northwest and the lightness of the northbreathtaking view and their dark sky status from the intrusion of exterior ern Glass Mountains, one of the few exposed uplifted coral reefs in Texas. While in Marathon, you’ll stand on some of the oldest rocks from the Palights. Marathon’s historic main street village sits a half-mile west of the leozoic age (250–600 million years ago). The Marathon Uplift exposes the Highway 385 turnoff to Big Bend National Park. Anchored by the leg- Ouachita Mountains of Arkansas and Oklahoma that were heaved up durendary Gage Hotel, the city center includes shops, restaurants, galleries, ing the formation of the ancient supercontinent of Pangaea. Roadcuts east groceries and accommodations to suit every taste and need. Railroad and of town along Highway 90 and south on Highway 385 expose onlookers ranching — two industries that founded the town — are still an important to spectacular features such as strike-slip faults, unusual folding and fossil part of the local economy, and visitors can learn more with a trip to the fragments.
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For more information, visit marathontexas.com, themarathonfoundation.org and visitbigbend.com, as well as the Visit Marathon Texas Facebook page and Instagram account. instagram.com/visitmarathontexas www.facebook.com/marathontexas
of legendary ranch woman, teacher and author Hallie Stillwell. Call before going as their hours vary (432) 376-2244.
GAGE GARDEN AND NATURE TRAIL Gage Hotel’s expansive landscaped garden encompasses 27 acres and includes meandering walking and running trails, ponds, lavender field, rose garden and blooming indigenous plants that flourish year round attracting area birds and butterflies. The garden serves as an event venue for Gage weddings and private parties, but is open to the public daily.
BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK Marathon is the northern and eastern gateway to Big Bend National Park. A 40-minute drive takes you to the park entrance, where you are greeted with breathtaking desert vistas. After another 45-minute drive inside the park, you can find yourself in the cool, high Chisos Mountains Basin with a view across the river into Mexico.
SPA AT THE GAGE HOTEL
Attractions CAMP PENA COLORADO (POST PARK) Five miles south of town, this shady oasis known simply as “The Post” was the original town site. Its location on the Comanche Trail necessitated the establishment of a cavalry post there. Although very little remains of the army post, it nevertheless gives the spot its current name. It is a popular location for dances, picnics and fishing, and is one of the best birding sites in the region.
MARATHON HISTORICAL MUSEUM Displays on early ranching, railroads and the mercantile history of Marathon. North 3rd Street and Avenue E.
HALLIE STILLWELL HALL OF FAME MUSEUM Located 39 miles south on Highway 385 and six miles east on FM 2627, this family museum honors the memory
102 W. Hwy 90 (800) 884-GAGE www.gagehotel.com The luxury spa at the historic Gage Hotel offers the ultimate in relaxation with massages, body treatments, facials and more.
EPIC ESCAPE GAME 103 E. Hwy 90 (503) 807-8028 www.epicescapegame.com Challenge yourself and your friends, family or coworkers to an interactive adventure. Teams have 60 minutes to use clues and teamwork to solve puzzles and escape the room.
MARATHON PUBLIC LIBRARY 106 NE 3rd Street, (432) 386-4136 www.marathonpubliclibrary.org The Marathon Public Library provides the community with the opportunity to borrow books and DVDs in a variety of genres. Printing services, Wi-Fi and programs for both adults and children are also available.
Events INDEPENDENCE DAY DANCE & CHILI COOK-OFF This weekend-long event has been an influential part of Brewster County culture since its start in the early 1900s. On the first Saturday and Sunday in July, Post Park hosts visitors from around the area for a community dance and CASI-sponsored chili cook-off benefiting the Marathon Volunteer Fire Department. Other weekend events include a barbecue lunch, live music and a fireworks show sponsored by the Gage Hotel.
MARATHON 2 MARATHON The 16th annual 5K, 10K, half and full marathons will take place Oct. 27, 2018, on the Highway 385 course. Registrants can enjoy a pre-run pasta dinner at the Gage Hotel and a postrace fire department fundraiser lunch, awards presentation and evening star party. www.marathon2marathon.net
COWBOY SOCIAL Held the first Sunday in November, this annual event benefiting the Marathon Health Clinic includes a dance, fajita dinner, cash bar, silent auction and “wheelbarrow of wine” raffle. (432) 386-3122
VIVA BIG BEND The last weekend of July, the Viva Big Bend music festival brings live music to various locations in Marathon, including the Gage Hotel and Eve’s Garden B&B.
WEST FEST AND CABRITO COOK-OFF The last weekend of September, cooks vie for the top prize with cabrito (goat) specialties. Family-friendly activities include washer pitching, team roping, softball, live music and a dance. Entrance fees benefit local causes, including the Marathon Volunteer Fire Department.
MARATHON CRAFTY LADIES’ QUILT SHOW Enter a quilt or come see the talent of local quilters and crafty ladies at this annual event. The Crafty Ladies’ group will sell quilts as well as other art and crafts. Door prizes will be awarded.
FIESTA DE NOCHE BUENA This community event in the spirit of the winter holiday season starts at dusk. Galleries and shops open on the first Saturday in December as musicians stroll among the downtown revelers.
MARATHON FISH FRY FUNDRAISER Held the second Saturday of February at the Marathon Community Center, this fish fry benefits Post Park. Funds raised will go to build a bandstand and make the post more user-friendly.
NEW MOON FESTIVAL The Marathon Chamber of Commerce will hold the second New Moon Festival (January 4-5, 2019) where the sky’s the limit. This exciting event will feature stargazing, lectures and presentations, science and folklore and parties. Follow VisitMarathonTexas on Facebook for more details
SHAWNA GRAVES
Should you decide to make Marathon your destination, or when you’re ready to head down the road, you’re an easy distance from just about anywhere in the area. Alpine is a mere 30 miles, and another 26 miles will get you to either Marfa or Fort Davis. But if you’re like most, you’ll probably head south to Big Bend National Park. Good news: Marathon is closer to the park than any other town in the region at just 42 miles. Marathon also offers a wide array of shortterm rentals, which can be found under lodging on the marathontexas.com website. Many of the properties can also be accessed through Air B&B, Home away and VRBO (vacation rentals by owner). Marathon is sitting pretty as the locals’ haven and visitors’ uncovered jewel, just a hop, skip and a jump from all that welcomes visitors to far West Texas and its little corner of heaven.
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OASIS CAFE 103 NE 1st Street Texan and Mexican deliciousness. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
V6 COFFEE BAR In the Gage Hotel - 101 Hwy 90 West (432) 386-4205 Hearty breakfast and a bistrostyle lunch with beer, wine and full espresso menu. Open daily from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Art & Galleries EVANS GALLERY Three doors down from the Gage (432) 386-4366 www.jameshevans.com The longest running gallery in the Big Bend and featuring the photographs of James H. Evans. James has been operating out of Marathon since 1988 and is the author of Big Bend Pictures (in its 3rd printing) and Crazy from the Heat. Home of Desert Critter Wear — closing and linens with printed desert critters.
KLEPPER GALLERY
EVE’S GARDEN ORGANIC BED & BREAKFAST 200 N.W. 3rd St. (432) 386-4165 www.evesgarden.org Seven separate, colorful, hand-built guest rooms (each with a private bath), surround a lush garden courtyard. Includes guest courtesy room and full organic breakfast.
GAGE HOTEL 102 W. Hwy 90 (800) 884-GAGE www.gagehotel.com Built in 1927 by famed architect Henry Trost, the recently restored Gage Hotel offers sophisticated laid-back luxury at the Gateway to the Big Bend.
LOMA DEL CHIVO HOSTEL 401 SW 6th Street , (432) 386-2116 lalomadelchivo.org Folks looking for the hostel experience will enjoy this funky place
featuring buildings made of recycled material, including cans, bottles and paper.
plies, gifts and artisan wares. The deli offers homemade sandwiches, salads, bread, cookies and coffee.
MARATHON MOTEL
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W. Hwy 90 (866) 386-4241 www.marathonmotel.com Established in 1940, the recently renovated Marathon Motel features 10 newly decorated rooms divided between four duplex cabins. There are also 19 full RV hookups complete with water, 30/50 amp electricity, sewer and cable television. The entrance is easy to navigate, and RVers can enjoy clean, bright restrooms with showers at no additional charge.
Food & Drink FRENCH COMPANY GROCER 206 N. Avenue D (432) 386-4522 www.frenchcogrocer.com This quaint local store stocks classic grocery staples, natural foods, beer and wine, as well as camping sup-
In the Gage Hotel - 101 Hwy 90 West (432) 386-4205 www.gagehotel.com Extraordinary fine dining and bar experience at the historic Gage Hotel.
GALLEN GALLERY 105 N. 1st Street (432) 244-6363 http://www.gallengallery.com Fine art gallery founded by local painter. Art lessons offered.
Shopping
BIG BEND PIZZA
THE CANDY CARTEL
900 Hwy 90 (432) 386-8883 Homemade, fire-roasted pizza. Open Tuesday through Thursday from 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from noon to 8 p.m..
(503) 807-8028 Texas-made treats. Open Thursday through Monday from 8:58 a.m. to 2:03 p.m.
BRICK VAULT BREWERY & BARBECUE 100 N. 1st Street, (432) 386-7538 The Brick Vault opened in 2018 and serves up tasty barbecue and craft beer — a great combination for the weary traveler.
V6 COLLECTION GIFTS In the Gage Hotel - 101 Hwy 90 West (432) 386-4205 The Gage Hotel’s uniquely curated collection of local art, area books and hand-crafted decor.
LECHUGUILLA LIQUOR 203 NE 1st Street (432) 208-0284 Closed Tuesdays and Sundays
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Lodging
105 N. Avenue D (432) 386-6789 www.edanklepper.com Open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
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ART, MUSIC AND CULTURE CAN ALL BE FOUND IN THIS WEST TEXAS OASIS
film location for James Dean’s final picture, GIANT, also starring Rock HE ENIGM ATIC city of Marfa sits in the high desert of Texas, surrounded by distant mountains in daylight and Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor and Dennis Hopper. The classically beautiful Hotel Paisano served as the center of activity during the making of the movie. mysterious ghost lights at night. Fittingly named after a character in a novel, Marfa has Now, the well-appointed rooms offer modern conveniences while preserving a history of attracting creative spirits. Founded as a railroad the spirit of its past. If you are unable to stay there, a visit is a must — sit in by water stop in the 1880s, the city limits are still bound on a roaring fireplace in the lobby or enjoy the outside courtyard and fountain. In 1971, Donald Judd, the renowned minimalist artist, moved to Marfa all sides by working cattle ranches, many still operated by their original descendants. On any given day you can find from New York City with the intention of permanently installing his art. these natives in one of the many fine restaurants, galleries or cultural events Since Judd’s death in 1994, two foundations have been working to maintain his legacy: the Chinati Foundation and Judd Foundation. Marfa offers, along with visitors from all over the world GUADALUPE The Chinati Foundation now occupies more than 10 buildwho come in for urban dislocation. MTS. NP Odessa ings and has on permanent exhibit work by such artists as On the surface, it is a typical rural town — a main John Chamberlain and Dan Flavin. street, a courthouse, churches and well-kept houses. Look Van Horn While in Marfa, don’t forget to find your way to the deeper and you will find restaurants and art collections to rival MARFA viewing station east of town where you can study the mysNew York or Berlin, a hotel filled with movie stars’ memories and Alpine tery of the Marfa Ghost Lights as they dance across the unrivaled eclectic accommodations (like El Cosmico’s renovated vinfoothills of the Chinati Mountains. Seen by the earliest tage trailers, scout tents, traditional 22-foot Sioux teepees and campBIG BEND NP settlers to the area, they continue to mystify travelers and passersby sites, or the uber-modern Hotel Thunderbird). and are part of the continuing enigma and magic that is Marfa. Until the 1970s, Marfa was best known for the ghost lights and as the
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Attractions A MARFA MYSTERY LIGHTS
1 mile
Marfa’s Mystery Ghost Lights were first documented by rancher Robert Ellison in 1883. Many theories about the source of these curious lights abound, but no one has ever been able to fully explain the phenomenon. Swamp gas, phosphorescent mineral displays, ball lightning, UFOs and wandering spirits of Apache ancestors have been proposed. Whatever the cause, these playful lights above Mitchell Flat are an enduring attraction. You’ll find a roadside park and viewing center complete with restroom facilities, picnic tables and long-range viewing devices along Highway 90 just eight miles east of town.
Built in 1886, the Goddess of Justice stands atop this elegant Second Empire-style domed structure that was restored in 2001. A climb to the cupola provides a 360-degree panoramic view of the Marfa Plateau, Chinati Peak and nearby Davis Mountains. Hours are 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Monday through Friday.
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MARFA AND PRESIDIO COUNTY MUSEUM
Housed in an 1880s adobe known as the HumphrisHumphreys House, this museum features displays of GIANT, the Chihuahuan Desert, local military and county history, and a collection of panoramic photography by Frank Duncan. Hours 2–5 p.m. Thursday through Sunday.
studios are open across town. www.chinati.org www.juddfoundation.org www.ballroommarfa.org
MARFA LIGHTS FESTIVAL The Marfa Lights Festival takes place each Labor Day weekend, with many of the activities surrounding the picturesque Presidio County Courthouse. The festival begins on Friday when food and craft vendors open their booths. Saturday morning starts with a 5K walk/ run and a parade down Highland Avenue. Live music is featured throughout the weekend.
MARFA MUNICIPAL GOLF COURSE The highest golf course in Texas, situated at 4,882 feet above sea level, this 9-hole course offers not only well-kept greens but also 360-degree views of blue mountains and open ranchland. It is a wonderfully manicured surprise in the middle of the desert mountains. (432) 729-4043.
Art
Events
CHINATI FOUNDATION , JUDD FOUNDATION and BALLROOM MARFA
CHINATI WEEKEND Originally a gathering orchestrated by the Chinati and Judd Foundations, Chinati Weekend (formerly “Open House”) has grown to be a full-scale weekend of art and activity. www.chinati.org.
TRANS-PECOS FESTIVAL The annual Trans-Pecos Festival of Music + Love takes place in September and imports music and fun to Marfa. El Cosmico offers alternative lodging options to travelers in the forms of renovated vintage trailers, yurts, a teepee and campsites.
Excursions FORT DAVIS — CHIHUAHUAN DESERT NATURE CENTER A visit to the base of the Davis Mountains offers a look into the past and the beyond. McDonald Observa-
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY CITY OF MARFA
are three nonprofit art spaces at the hub of Marfa culture. Occupying much of former Fort D.A. Russell, the Chinati Foundation houses a permanent collection of contemporary art, as well as temporary exhibits by artists in residence. The Judd Foundation focuses primarily on the work of Chinati founder Donald Judd, while Ballroom Marfa features revolving exhibits of international acclaim, along with numerous music events throughout the year. In addition to these three organizations, several independent galleries and
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tory’s world-class instruments give a look into deep space, while the historic Fort Davis shows how settlers and military lived in the 1800s. The 507-acre Nature Center, an affiliate of the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute, features 20 acres of botanical gardens, a cactus and succulent greenhouse with over 150 species of plants, nearly five miles of hiking trails, including about one and a half miles within the gardens, a geologic timeline with rock samples from the region, a Heritage Mining Exhibit, and the Powell Visitor Center, which includes exhibits and a gift shop.
PINTO CANYON The Rio Grande and some of the most scenic West Texas views imaginable await on the road out of Marfa. Take an adventure toward the ghostly Chinati mountains, into the natural border wonders in Presidio.
RIVER ROAD You’ll forget to breathe more than once while taking in the wonders along the route to two of Texas’ premiere state parks. Whether it’s the majesty of Santa Elena Canyon or the mining “ghost town” of Terlingua, River Road is full of surprises.
Food & Drink SQUEEZE MARFA Across from the Presidio County Courthouse (432) 729-4500 Open Tuesday-Sunday 8 a.m.-3 p.m. www.squeezemarfa.com www.vollenweiderchocolate.com Smoothies, juices, soups, sandwiches, salads and Vollenweider Swiss chocolate.
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Lodging 207 N. Highland (866) 729-3669 www.hotelpaisano.com A historic hotel with 41 rooms, dining room, shopping and a heated pool. The Paisano hosted the stars of the movie GIANT and now serves as the social headquarters for Marfa. Enjoy patio dining by the fountain and views of the exquisite Trost architecture.
COURTESY CITY OF MARFA
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SANDHILLS STATE PARK Five miles northeast of Monahans off I20. (432)-943-2092
WARD COUNTY MUSEUM AT THE MILLION BARREL Open Tuesday–Sunday, 10 am–6 pm (432) 943-8401 Located at the Million Barrel, this 14.5acre site is a historical potpourri. Built in 1928, the tank was designed to hold over a million barrels of crude oil and today provides a perfect performance venue for the 400-seat Meadows Amphitheater. Boasting a wide variety of historical artifacts, the Ward County Museum complex is a must-do for any history buff. Coca-Cola Museum: Commemorates the Coca-Cola bottling plant and The Big Burger Restaurant. It is a private collection donated to the museum by Dan & Elaine Wetzig and the Conrad Dunagan Family. The collection contains all kinds of Coca-Cola memorabilia and collectibles. Heritage Museum: Contains numerous antique collections of cameras, medical instruments, rifles and shotguns dated back to the early ’20s, surveying equipment, oilfield equipment and a pennyfarthing bicycle. Railroad Museum: See antiques from the Pyote Train Depot, the rail car and caboose, and the SWBT last “step” office in Texas. The Pyote Bomber Base Museum: This important collection is a wonderful venue for WWII enthusiasts. Come visit our newest exhibit and learn about the Pyote Army Airfield, which trained B-17 and B-29 crews.
MONAHANS Come play in our sandbox and experienCe some of the most beautiful sunrises and sunsets.
PHOTOS THIS PAGE COURTESY MONAHANS CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
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full growth of only four feet in height. Most of a OHN THOM AS Monahan is the name of the man who dug the well Shinoak’s biomass exists in the form of a lengthy root and for whom the community of system reaching down to groundwater. If a Monahans Monahans is named. The discovery sand dune has become stabilized and stopped blowing of water at the site of present-day about in the wind, it is often because a small grove of Monahans was a breakthrough, Shinoaks have stabilized the dune with their extensive according to an article in the Encyclo- root systems. Despite the sterility of the landscape, various rodents are relatively common, pedia of the New GUADALUPE MONAHANS MTS. NP West, written in Odessa and several packs of Sandhills coyotes feed upon them. 1881. “The Texas Van Horn Much of the Monahans and Pacific Railroad found here its first Sandhills are privately owned propinexhaustible supply of pure water.” For erty. The state of Texas is operating the first time, it now becomes apparent that Alpine a 99-year lease with the Sealy-Smith the “Monahans Well” may have had a very BIG BEND Foundation for the ranch on which significant impact. NP most of the land of the state park is located; the Monahans Sandhills State Park is noted for the park opened to the public in 1957, and the state presence of sand dunes up to 70 feet high. Although desert-like, the Monahans Sandhills are not a des- park has leasehold rights to this parcel of the sand hills ert; they are a part of a semi-arid ecosystem (aver- until 2056. The Monahans Sandhills are part of the age annual rainfall 12.3 inches characterized by the Permian Basin of hydrocarbon formations, and some presence of both groundwater and relatively nutrient- oil production continues in and around the state park. Visitors practice several local forms of recreation poor windblown sand. The Shinoak (Quercus havardii) is a local climax shrub, an unusual type of oak at the Monahans Sandhills, such as sandboarding, tree that, because of local conditions, often achieves sand volleyball, sand surfing and sand tobogganing.
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WARD COUNTY GOLF COURSE An 18-hole course that features 6,669 yards of golf from the longest tees for a par of 72. The course rating is 69.9 and it has a slope rating of 115 on Bermuda grass. The golf course opened in 1934.
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PRESIDENTIAL ARCHIVE & LEADERSHIP LIBRARY A premier library dedicated solely to the office of the president. Permanent exhibits include campaign memorabilia, historical documents and first lady miniatures. Also features the George H. Bush Family Home, where two presidents and a first lady spent their early days in West Texas. 4919 East University Blvd. www.shepperdinstitute.com/ presidential-archives
fun fact The book Friday Night Lights: A Town, a Team, and a Dream by author H. G. Bissinger and subsequent movie (Friday Night Lights) are based on the 1988 football season of the Permian Panthers, one of the two high school football teams in Odessa. The book also inspired an NBC television series of the same name.
ELLEN NOËL ART MUSEUM
PHOTOS THIS PAGE COURTESY ODESSA CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU
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The Ellen Noel Art Museum of the Permian Basin is an independent art museum. The museum features rotating exhibitions of historical and contemporary art and a permanent sculpture/sensory garden. The Museum is one of only two art museums in the state of Texas that has been granted the Smithsonian Affiliation. The Museum is located at 4909 E. University. www.noelartmuseum.org
WHEN IT COMES TO VARIETY AND FUN, ODESSA, TEXAS IS THE RIGHT PLACE TO BE.
the rodeos, Odessa is a simple town with a heart of cattle shipping point on the Texas and gold. With that great fortitude comes great respect for Pacific Railway, Odessa has grown to culture and the arts — not to mention a penchant for sports. Home to sports organizations be a real metropolilike the North American Hockey tan area with all the GUADALUPE MTS. NP accoutrements of ODESSA League team the Odessa Jackalopes, this is the place to stay when you’re big city living. In fact, Van Horn looking for in-city activities that will Odessa is one of the most economically wow the kids and entertain mom and important cities in Texas. Alpine dad as well. www.odessacvb.com But beyond the rigs, the roughnecks and OU NDED IN 1881 as a water stop and
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GLOBE OF THE GREAT SOUTHWEST Modeled after Shakespeare’s original Globe Theatre. Home of stage plays and the Brand New Opree, a showcase for musical talent. Also features the Anne Hathaway Cottage. The Theatre is located on the Odessa College Campus at 2308 Shakespeare Road. www.globesw.org BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 61
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TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER Open Monday through Friday, 9am–5pm, and Saturdays from 10am–3pm. 24-hour restrooms. Find local and regional details as well as tourist information for a 300-mile radius of Ozona. Located at the intersection of I-10 and Hwy. 163 South. Exit 365. www.ozona.com Facebook: OzonaChamber
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FORT LANCASTER HISTORIC SITE One of four posts established in 1855 to protect the military route between San Antonio and El Paso. Visitors may wander through the ruins of the fort still standing guard over the Pecos River valley. Located 33 miles west of Ozona off U.S. 290, in Crockett County, travelers can also stop at an observation point for a spectacular view of a valley once roamed by pioneers. www.visitfortlancaster.com
CROCKETT COUNTY MUSEUM Three story period museum featuring an award-winning Indian exhibit, general store, bank room, saddle room and many other exhibits. Experience a way of life lived by so many before us. www.crockettcountymuseum.com
EDRA-Escondido Draw Recreational Area EscondidoDraw.org
CROCKETT COUNTY INTERPRETIVE TRAIL & RAINWATER HARVEST EXHIBIT
PHOTOS THIS PAGE COURTESY OZONA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
OZONA
Open to the public 7 days a week and located just across the parking lot of the Visitor Center at the intersection of I-10 and Hwy. 163 South. A great collection of native plants from within a 100-mile radius of Ozona, along with an exhibit on how to collect rain water. www.ozona.com
LOCATED IN THE TEXAS PECOS TRAIL, OZONA IS THE PERFECT 1-10 STOP BETWEEN SAN ANTONIO AND EL PASO.
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ZONA , the only town in over 2,800 square miles of Crockett County, was organized in 1891 and bears the name of Alamo hero David Crockett. Ozona is not only rich in history, but offers an array of activities. Visit a three-story period museum or a nearby fort to understand life out
GUADALUPE west. From hisMTS. NP torical walking and nature tours, to off-roading and scenic drives, there truly is something for the whole family. Discover local and area attractions at www.ozona.com!
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Chet O’Keefe and Bruce Salmon, Blue Bonnet Music Series, 2018
PRESIDIO
The first Spanish colonizers came to Presidio in the 16th GUADALUPE MTS. NP of the Rio Grande, and propped century, and continued to settle the area. For much of its Odessa against the stunning backdrop of early history, the area called Presidio encompassed both sides the Big Bend, Presidio is not only an Van Horn of the river. Now, the Mexican town that sits across from Marfa international gateway of trade and crossPresidio is called Ojinaga. During the Mexican Revolucultural exchange, but also a natural marvel. tion, General Pancho Villa was known to use Ojinaga as his PRESIDIO All roads that lead to Presidio offer resplendent views. Drive south headquarters. BIG BEND from the town of Marfa along US 67, where if you’re lucky enough to Consistently ranked one of the safest towns in Texas, PresiNP hit the road around sunset, you’ll witness big skies streaked with an otherdio defies notions of the border as a dangerous or scary place. In fact, worldy palette of brilliant colors. If you’re coming from Big Bend National crime is so rare that most folks leave their houses and cars unlocked. Park along the famous “River Road,” you’ll edge up against the Rio Grande, The International Port of Entry, patrolled by Customs and Border Protecand follow its course along a road that snakes and curves just like the river tion, is equally safe. So don’t be scared: grab your passport and make a drive itself. Along this road, you’ll climb “Big Hill,” at the top of which you can across the border, where the tequila is better, and cheaper too. Across the find a breathtaking view of both sides of the border, with the river running border, in the 30,000-town of Ojinaga, you’ll have your pick of authentic through it. Mexican restaurants and shops that sell colorful, local wares. Presidio boasts a long and illustrious history as a cultural crossroads. Perhaps the biggest draw to this far West Texas town are the people For centuries, starting with indigenous tribes, people have been drawn to the who reside here. Search far and wide and it’s likely you won’t find a friendlier point where the Rio Grande and the Rio Conchos converge, also known as community. In Presidio, people look out for one another, and everyone is “La Junta de los Rios.” An ancient Lipan-Apache burial site, located within family. So, stop in at the Presidio Trading Post and crack open a beer with the town of Presidio itself, is evidence of the indigenous people who first some of the folks who make this little town great. settled here. ESTLED ALONG THE BANKS
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La Junta de Los Ríos, the beginnings of texas histoRy.
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ART AND CULTURE Presidio boasts a surprisingly rich art and cultural scene, noticeable from the moment you enter town. Painted upon the city’s water tower, which juts above the town, is the image of an old woman holding a rose — a mural, painted by worldrenowned street muralist “El Mac.” Presidio is also home to the La Junta Heritage Center, a non-profit organization developed in the memory of A. Kelly Pruitt, a Texas artist who’s been featured in the Who’s Who in American Art. The center’s aim is to protect the cultural heritage of the region known as “La Junta.” Each April, the town hosts its Presidio Arts Festival, a celebration in Presidio’s downtown area that boasts folklorico dancing, delicious food and a wide array of fine art for sale.
STAR LIGHT, STAR BRIGHT One of the region’s greatest assets are its dark skies, which stretch like a black canopy over the TransPecos. In 2012, Big Bend National Park was designated an official “Dark Sky Park,” meaning that visibility of the night sky is protected from light pollution. At night, stare upward, and you’ll find a view into the cosmos like you’ve never seen before. Each October, Presidio celebrates this view with its “Dark Skies Festival.” GATEWAY TO MEXICO There’s no trip to Presidio without a trip to its Mexican sister city, Ojinaga. The two towns are inextricably tied and boast a wonderful and mutually supportive relationship. It takes no more than five minutes to cross over into Mexico from Presidio. There, you’ll find a wide variety of authentic
Mexican cuisine, as well as shops that sell wonderful, local wares at a price you can’t beat. However, certain foods are not allowed back into the United States, so be sure to inform yourself of what items you can bring back into the country. RIDE RIVER ROAD There are few roads in the United States that are quite as pretty as FM170, known to most as the “River Road” for the way it runs along the Rio Grande. From Presidio, the road runs through the scenic Big Bend Ranch State Park and spits you out in the town of Terlingua. Motorcyclists come far and wide to ride this road, and you probably should, too.
PHOTOS THIS PAGE COURTESY CITY OF PRESIDIO
SACRED GROUND Presidio recognizes and celebrates its indigenous roots. The Lipan-Apache Cemetery, located just off Highway 170 between Barton and Market Streets, pays homage to the communities that existed here since the very beginning. In February 2018, a formal dedication ceremony designated the site a Texas State Historical Marker.
Antique shopping in Presidio
We hope you’ll spend some time in our warm town. And don’t be shy to stop by City Hall, where the city’s officials will be happy to point you in the right direction.
Aoudad
IT’S FOR THE BIRDS Witness the magic of water in the desert at the B.J. Bishop Wetlands, located half-a-mile east of Fort Leaton State Historic Site. The 10-acre plot of land has been converted into a wetlands habitat using the city’s effluent wastewater, and has become a sanctuary for as many as 505 species of migratory birds who pass through the Presidio Valley annually. To walk along the trail that runs along its perimeter is like taking a walk into Jurassic Park. Birds of all different colors and squawks swoop down, skimming the water with their feet. Make sure you bring your binoculars! BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 65
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Attractions A ST. FRANCIS PLAZA
Opposite El Patio, the plaza is an oasis of shade, fountains and greenery. Santa Teresa de Jesus Church est. 1683, on O’Reilly Street, was rededicated in October 1983 in its tri-centennial year.
B FORT LEATON STATE HISTORIC SITE (432) 229-2992 www.tpwd.state.tx.us/fortleaton Visit a massive, fortified adobe trading post dating from the 1840s. Interpretive exhibits highlight area history. Day use only.
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BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK
(432) 358- 4416 www.tpwd.state.tx.us/bigbendranch This massive park of almost 300,000 acres flanks the “River Road” and features trailheads, small recreation areas, primitive camping and river access points.
D FM 170 WEST — MOTORCYCLE RIDE TO RUIDOSA AND CHINATI HOT SPRINGS www.chinatihotsprings.com About 36 miles northwest of Presidio on FM 170, Ruidosa, a once thriving agricultural community, today is home to a general store. Also at the end of FM 170 is Candelaria, a beautiful drive often not seen by most visitors. The Chinati Hot Springs features constant 110-degree, mineral-rich waters which have been regarded for their healing qualities for well over 100 years. Fees are charged for baths, cabins, and camping. The graded dirt Hot Springs Road heads north from FM 170 just past Ruidosa.
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Twenty miles north of Presidio on Highway 67 are the remains of a once prosperous silver mining town. Extensive ruins are visible, though fenced against trespassing. Shafter is Texas’ only working silver mine operated by Rio Grande Silver mine.
F OJINAGA, MEXICO
www.ojinaga.com An easy drive across the international bridge, Ojinaga welcomes visitors with a variety of excellent restaurants
and shops, a casual atmosphere and friendly, helpful locals. The cultural museum is a must-see on the road from the international bridge.
G LA JUNTA DE LOS RIOS La Junta de los Rios is a historic farming and trading area at the junction of the Rio Grande (called Rio del Norte by the Spanish) and the Rio Conchos.
H ELEPHANT ROCK & PROFILE OF LINCOLN This bizarre rock structure can be viewed from Highway 67 just outside of Shafter. Another favorite rock novelty, the profile of Lincoln can be viewed from Highway 67 just north of Presidio.
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PRESIDIO AQUATIC CENTER
http://presidiotx.us Pool open from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Beat the heat in a pool designed for all ages, zero entry to 8 ½ foot diving area. Featuring a 90-foot, figure-eight slide and other water features to get you wet. Bathhouse and showers, great place to cool off after adventures in the Big Bend.
PRESIDIO ATHLETIC COMPLEX 1144 E. O’Reilly Where baseball is king! Visitors are welcome to all the games.
is an adventure with side roads and stops to explore.
B.J. BISHOP WETLANDS Bird watching area half mile from Fort Leaton on FM 170 East.
Events FOURTH OF JULY An annual celebration is held at Daly Park. Dance starts at dark with popular dance bands playing border music under the stars. Fireworks show and fun for the whole family. Admission free. Vendors, please contact City Hall at (432) 229-3517 for details.
(432) 229 3349 99400 Highway 67, PO Box 1959 Presidio, Texas 79845 Port of entry and for visiting our Ojinaga sister city as a tourism opportunity. The expansion of the bridge is in progress to improve international tourism and trade with Mexico. Visit our sister city, Ojinaga, Mexico. For ease in crossing, bring your passport. Friendly community with good food and shopping. U.S. currency accepted in most places. U.S. Customs and Border Protection, open to traffic 24/7.
K A BIKER’S DELIGHT: FM 170 EAST (RIVER ROAD) National Geographic magazine calls FM 170 to Presidio one of the “Top 10 Scenic Highways in North America” and RideTexas.com Reader’s Choice calls it the “Best Road Next to a River.” On two wheels or more, River Road
THREE PALMS INN 1200 N. Erma St. (432) 229-3211 A great place to stay in Presidio. Comfortable rooms, pool, internet, and offers the Oasis Restaurant open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. www.threeplamsinn.com
DARK SKIES MUSIC SERIES Enjoy the Indian Summer with singersongwriters performing on Friday evenings at 7 pm in St Saint Francis Park located in Downtown Presidio. Starting October 27 through early December. Admission is free.
BLUEBONNET MUSIC SERIES Music by talented singer-song writers performed over a 6 weeks’ time period to coincide with the blooming of Big Bend Blue Bonnets along the River Road. The music Series is held at St. Francis Park Downtown staring at 7 pm. Admission is free and the music is outstanding.
ARTS FESTIVAL PRESIDIO/OJINAGA INTERNATIONAL PORT OF ENTRY J
Lodging
Presidio celebrates Student Art month with a festival April 5–6. Arts of all mediums are shown. Activities include a dance with popular Spanish bands at Daly Park. To volunteer, sponsor, or participant, please contact Brad Newton at (432) 229-3517 or by e-mail at bnewton@presidiotx.us.
FIRST CHRISTMAS IN TEXAS Santa Teresa Catholic Church conducts Christmas mass and the public is invited.
SANTA TERESA FIESTAS Columbus Day Weekend, Santa Teresa de Jesus Church. Each year the church committee hosts a twoday celebration with traditional food arts and crafts. There is a raffle with all proceeds going directly to the church’s insurance and needs. Call (432) 229-3235 for more information.
RIATA INN MOTEL 99205 US 67 North (432) 229-2528 Presidio’s Motorcycle Boutique Motel. Riders will find a home away from home and extras one not might expect traveling on a bike. Riata is certainly the motorcycle-friendly place for all travelers to stay in Presidio. www.riatainnpresidio.com
PRESIDIO LODGE & DASP RV PARK 99140 Hwy 67 (as you come into town) (432) 209-9565 www.presidiolodge.com A hilltop campground with cabins and RV spaces with beautiful views in all directions.
LOMA PALOMA RV PARK On FM 170, 4 miles east of downtown (432) 229-2992 84 wide, pull-thru sites. Showers.
Food & Drink THE BEAN CAFE (432) 229-3131 Coffee Shop located at the “Y”. Great coffee, soups, full menu and daily specials, best burgers in town, panini sandwiches. Check out Taco Tuesday. Open 7 days a week, 7 a.m.–3 p.m. Free Wifi.
EL CHANGARRITO Next to the railroad tracks on East O’Reilly St. Mexican food, shaded outdoor dining
EL PATIO Downtown, next to bus station (432) 229-4409 Popular Mexican restaurant. Open 6 a. m. –9 p.m. daily. Beer and ice-cream.
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HINDI’S RESTAURANT & SPORTS BAR
Outfitters & Tours
1207 E. Millington St. on FM 170 E. (432) 229-3031 Opens 4 p.m. to late. Hamburgers, wings and beer. Big TVs and pool tables too! Closed on Wednesdays.
ANGELL EXPEDITIONS (432) 229-3713 or (305) 336-2787 www.angellexpeditions.com Full-service outfitter serving the greater Big Bend area. River rafting, canoeing, kayaking, jeep tours, hiking, mountain biking and camping. Single and multi-day trips available, tailored to your interests and schedules. Rental cabins available. Highest ranking on TripAdvisor!
OASIS RESTAURANT Next to Three Palms Inn on Errma St. (432) 229-3998 Open 7 a.m.–10 p.m. daily. Good food and desserts.
PONCHO’S PIZZA, TAXI SERVICE
Services
144A N. Puerto Rico St and US 67 (432) 229-2663 (432) 295 0447 (Taxi Service) Next to the Presidio International Bridge.
AUTO ZONE
Large building close to International Bridge (432) 229-3766 Some items may be bought on the spot, others like liquor and cigarettes (up to 40% off retail) can only be exported to Mexico at the international bridge. Limit for bringing back liquor.Tax per liter: $3.75 with 4-liter limit per person.
Hwy 67 (432) 229-4949
TOM’S SERVICE STATION 203 O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3259
DOLLAR TREE, FAMILY DOLLAR, DOLLAR GENERAL, SHOPKO, MELROSE AND PAYLESS SHOES
Shopping NIETO’S O’Reilly Street (432) 229-3220 Full selection of cowboy jeans, belts and hats, as well as a ladies section.
All on Business 67 They may not have everything you want but they have everything you need!
PORTERS THRIFTWAY MONTANA WESTERN WEAR & ALSE MISC.
DY CONVENIENCE STORE 104 W. O’Reilly (432) 229-4488
River Road at FM 170 E. & Rio Grande Ave.
KINGS TIRE
SAN JOSE PANADERIA
1515 E. Millington (432) 295-1884
109 N. Erma on Business US 67 (432) 229-3424 Family-run bakery, known for its crescent rolls and for tamales and menudo on Sunday.
UETA DUTY FREE STORE
907 E. O’Reilly (432) 229-2525
PRESIDIO 67 VALERO
101 E. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3223
PRESIDIO TRADING POST & CANTINA
ROHANA TIRE
504 N. Erma on N. Business 67 (432) 229-3776 www.portersgrocery.com Popular stop for traveler’s looking for beverages, groceries, ice, fuel and Western Union. It is a full-service grocery store, deli and bakery.
O’Reilly Street (432) 229-3224 Full selection of cowboy jeans, belts and hats, as well as a ladies section. Alse is a specialty store with a wide variety of useful personal products. From makeup to electronics.
NAPA AUTO PARTS
THE GONZALES THRIFT STORE
405 E. O’Reilly (432) 229-3982
Downtown at Gonzalez St. and O’Rielly St. Rare collectibles and quality new & used clothing.
SUBWAY SANDWICH SHOP 223 W. 1st St.
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TERLINGUA AND
THE PLACE TO GO TO GET AWAY FROM IT ALL .
of Big Bend State Park and to the west of Big Bend National Park sits the Terlingua/ Study Butte area, which attracts visitors looking for West Texas adventure. Rafting on the Rio Grande, mountain biking, camping, hiking and motorcycling are popular outdoor activities throughout the region, and many such trips begin in this tiny community. But the adrenaline-rushing tourist activities aren’t what originally put Terlingua on the map. That honor goes to cinnabar, a bright mineral consisting of mercury sulfide — an important ore of mercury and used by Native Americans as body pigment. Its discovery in the 1880s brought miners to the desolate Chihuahuan Desert and spawned the Chisos Mining Company, founded by Howard Perry in 1903. For more than two decades, the operation extracted quicksilver, which was used in the manufacture of gunpowder cartridges and shells. Business boomed, particularly during World War I, and O THE E AST
the small town of Terlingua blossomed around including the hard-to-miss formation known as the mines. But once the Great Depression hit, the “Mule Ears.” When the sun goes down, enjoy quicksilver industry suffered, leading to a reduced some of the best celestial viewing in the country. Each year on the first Saturday in Novemneed for mine labor and, ultimately the closure of ber, more than 10,000 “chiliheads” convene in the Chisos Mining Company in 1942. Terlingua for two annual chili Though many minGUADALUPE MTS. NP cookoffs: the Chili Appreers moved on, remnants of Odessa ciation Society’s International their time in the far West Texas Van Horn Chili Championship and the community remain. The Terlingua Marfa Frank X. Tolbert/Wick Fowler Ghost Town, which is on the NationMemorial World Champional Register of Historic Places, features ship Chili Cookoff. These anwhat’s left of miners’ homes, their church TERLINGUA BIG BEND nual events — now in their 51st and Perry’s hilltop mansion, along with NP year — feature costumes, live music several capped and abandoned mines — most and serious competition. They have notably the California Hill, the Rainbow, the come to personify Terlingua and spread the rep248 and the Study Butte mines. No trip to the area is complete without a utation of this unique Texas village worldwide. The neighboring community of Study Butte visit to the front porch of the Terlingua Trading Company — what was once the company store (pronounced “stoody byoot”) may be lesser known, of the Chisos Mining Company. From this pop- but it is the economic hub of the area and has a ular gathering place, onlookers can get to know similar history steeped in mining. Today, stores, the locals while taking in a sweeping view of Big lodging and other amenities cater to tourists enBend National Park and the Chisos Mountains, joying all that the Big Bend region has to offer.
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Attractions TERLINGUA TRADING COMPANY 100 Ivey Rd. (432) 371-2234 www.terlinguatradingco.homestead.com Housed in the former company store of the Chisos Mining Company, this is a modern-day version of the trading post that served trappers, settlers and cowboys along the Rio Grande. Today, the gift shop and community gathering place sells gifts influenced by Mexico and the southwestern U.S., including books, maps and art.
HISTORIC TERLINGUA AND THE TERLINGUA GHOST TOWN www.ghosttowntexas.com On Highway 170, five miles west of 118 Added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1996, the Terlingua Historic District holds the largest concentration of mining architecture in the area. Some buildings have been restored as shops, restaurants and homes, including the Starlight Theatre and the Terlingua Trading Company. Other remnants, such as miners’ homes, an area church and the Perry Mansion, are weathered ruins. The Terlingua Ghost Town also includes capped and abandoned mines left over from the early-1900s mining boom and a boot hill cemetery.
COURTESY TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION
BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK www.visitbigbend.com If you’ve made it to far West Texas, Big Bend National Park is probably on your itinerary. The Terlingua and Study Butte area is a great starting point from which to base your national park adventure. Once inside the park, consider the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. This stunning loop of the western side of Big Bend passes many favorite trailheads and ends at the majestic Santa Elena Canyon. The improved dirt Maverick Road leads back to the park entrance at Maverick Junction.
BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK www.tpwd.state.tx.us/bigbendranch The largest state park in Texas, with over 300,000 acres of Chihuahuan Desert wilderness, the park embraces some of the most remote and rugged terrain in the Southwest. Mountain bikers, hikers and equestrians enjoy
miles of trails that traverse “the other side of nowhere.”
BARTON WARNOCK VISITOR CENTER www.tpwd.state.tx.us/ bartonwarnock
The Center serves as the eastern entrance to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Exhibits interpret 570 million years of geologic history and the five biological landscapes of the Chihuahuan Desert. It was named for famed botanist and 33-year Sul Ross State University professor Dr. Barton Warnock (1911–1998).
WALKING TOUR OF TERLINGUA GHOSTTOWN terlinguawalk.homestead.com/tour. html This self-guided tour starts at the flag pole in front of the Terlingua Trading Company. Check out the website for more details.
CAMINO DEL RIO — THE RIVER ROAD Highway 170 along the Rio Grande is a favorite among travelers. You’ll find several camping areas, river access points and trailheads along the way. At places, the road becomes narrow, winding and very steep, making it difficult for some RVs, buses and trailer rigs. Open grazing is also allowed along this stretch of road, so keep your eyes peeled for cows, horses, mules or burros.
RIDE THE RIO GRANDE The Terlingua and Study Butte area is the jumping off point for your river adventure. There are a number of experienced outfitters that will make your trip, fun and safe, whether it be by raft, canoe or kayak.
Outfitters & Activities BIG BEND RIVER TOURS 23331 FM 170 (800) 545-4240 www.bigbendrivertours.com The oldest full-service outfitter in the area, Big Bend River Tours offers guided rafting trips, canoe trips, guided hikes, backroad tours and combination trips.
DESERT SPORTS 22937 FM 170 (888) 989-6900 www.desertsportstx.com
The porch at Terlingua Trading Company
Looking to mountain bike or run in Big Bend National Park or Big Bend State Park? Desert Sports specializes in that, helping visitors explore the Chihuahuan Desert. Guided tours, overnight river trips and boat and bike rentals are also available.
LAJITAS ZIP-LINE lajitasgolfresort; (432) 424-5000 A world-class zip-line tour of Quiet Canyon is a perfect way for adrenaline junkies to enjoy the breathtaking surroundings of the Big Bend area. Nine zip lines take riders from the upper canyon to the canyon floor. Three tour options available.
BLACK JACK’S CROSSING GOLF COURSE lajitasgolfresort; (432) 424-5080 This 18-hole championship golf course designed by Ryder Cup Captain Lanny Wadkins has been voted the top Course You Can Play in Texas by the Dallas Morning News for multiple years. The course winds through the mountains, canyon and desert, capturing the beauty and drama of the Big Bend region while offering challenging golf for all skill levels.
derness first aid and canoe rentals.
BIG BEND & LAJITAS STABLES (800) 887-4331, (432) 371-3064 www.lajitasstables.com/index.html lajitasstables@bigbend.net Offering guided horseback rides for almost 30 years! Join us in the frontier lands of the Chihuahuan Desert next to Big Bend National Park, along Scenic Rio Grande and atop the mesas of the Bofecillos Mountains in Big Bend Ranch State Park. Hourly, half- or allday and multiple days available.
BIG BEND RESORT & ADVENTURES (432) 371-2218 , (877) 386-4383 www.bigbendresort.com/big-bendoverland-tours Big Bend Resort & Adventures offers experienced guides to take you to all areas of the Big Bend. The tours are conducted in a Ford Excursion 4-wheel drive vehicle with air conditioning for your comfort.
FAR FLUNG OUTDOOR CENTER
Events
23310 FM 170; (432) 371-2633 www.bigbendfarflung.com Far Flung Outdoor Center helps visitors experience the Big Bend area up close and personal with river trips, walks and hikes, and Jeep and ATV tours. They also offer courses in wil-
VOICES FROM BOTH SIDES Every year in May, people from both sides of the border come together for a day of music and fun next to (and in) the Rio Grande. Musicians grab their instruments and set up on the bandstand at the edge of the river near the BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 69
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border community of Lajitas. They take turns playing songs with bands just across the border, on the Mexican side of the river, at Paso Lajitas, an even tinier village.
DAY OF THE DEAD/ DIA DE LOS MUERTOS www.visitbigbend.com It’s a Terlingua tradition to meet at sunset on November 2 and the historic cemetery in the Terlingua Ghost Town to light candles and make offerings to loved ones long past, remember old friends and make new ones as everyone visits and honors those who’ve gone before them.
RIDE 4 TRAILS
TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP www.casichili.net Chili Appreciation Society International’s annual event is held at Rancho CASI de los Chisos on the north side of Highway 170, 11 miles west of Study Butte. CASI hosts the annual championship on the first weekend of November. The festivities include BBQ, salsa, beans and wings contests. There is live music entertainment on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.
BLACK-EYED PEA OFF January 1, 2019 Since 1990, Terlingua residents and visitors have celebrated the start of a new year with a black-eyed pea cooking competition. The annual event occurs on the porch of the Terlingua Trading Company and has two rules: have fun and no beans! A first place trophy is awarded and proceeds benefit local causes.
BIG BEND ULTRA RUN www.bigbend50.com This racing event takes place every January in Big Bend Ranch State Park. Participants can choose from a 50K, 30K and 10K trail run over desert ter-
rain. The premium, ultra and distance trail races in the Chihuahuan Desert of South Brewster County benefit Compadres del Rancho Grande, a volunteer organization committed to supporting the parks of the Big Bend.
SOTOL FESTIVAL www.basecampterlingua.com Help us celebrate (April 12-13, 2019) the dangerously delicious cousin of tequila and mezcal — SOTOL. Two nights of live music, great food, a little science, fun activities and some chill days in Terlingua, Texas. Nice time of year to visit Terlingua!
from the comfort of a private suite, casa or tipi located in the heart of the Terlingua Ghost Town.
LA POSADA MILAGRO www.laposadamilagro.net Built atop ruins in the Terlingua Ghost Town, the pet-friendly La Posada Milagro provides rustic luxury accommodations. Each room is unique, and visitors can enjoy views of Big Bend National Park from sun decks and courtyards. An onsite coffee shop — Espresso y Poco Mas — features both breakfast and lunch menus.
CHISOS MINING CO. MOTEL TERLINGUA CHIHUAHUA RACES The Chihuahua races take place each March and benefit the Family Crisis Center of the Big Bend. Enjoy the race, games, a dog costume contest and food and music.
Lodging
FOR A COMPLETE LISTING OF AREA LODGING OPTIONS, GO TO WWW.VISITBIGBEND.COM EL DORADO HOTEL 100 Terlingua Ghost Town (432) 371-2111 www.theeldoradohotel.com Located behind the High Sierra Bar & Grill, the El Dorado Hotel offers traditional single, double and king rooms, as well as a one-bedroom villa and a fully remodeled tour bus that sleeps four.
TERLINGUA RENTALS www.terlinguarentals.com Enjoy views of the Chisos Mountains
23280 FM 170 (432) 371-2254 www.motelsbigbend.com For more than 40 years, this locally owned and operated motel just minutes from both Big Bend National Park and Big Bend State Park has served West Texas visitors.
BIG BEND RESORT & ADVENTURES Three miles from the western entrance to Big Bend National Park (432) 371-2218 , (877) 386-4383 www.bigbendresortadventures.com Big Bend Resort & Adventures features lodging, gift shop, food, a convenience store and guided back country tours. A campground and RV park with full hookups is also onsite.
HOLIDAY HOTEL 100 Ivey Rd. (432) 201-1177 www.bigbendholidayhotel.com Located between Study Butte and
Lajitas on Highway 170, in the heart of the Historic Terlingua Ghost Town, Holiday Hotel offers sophisticated accommodations in a primitive setting. Guests can choose between the lovingly restored suites, casitas and family suites.
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LAJITAS GOLF RESORT/ MAVERICK RANCH RV PARK On Hwy 170 (432) 424-5000, (877) LAJITAS www.lajitasgolfresort.com A full-service resort which is also home to a beautiful 18-hole golf course and an outfitter service. Maverick Ranch RV Park offers 101 sites, including 60 full-service pull-throughs and 18 primitive wilderness campsites for those interested in having a true, rustic tent camping experience.
BIG BEND CASITAS (432) 371-2633 www.bigbendfarflung.com/lodging
LONGHORN RANCH MOTEL 52370 TX-118, Terlingua (432) 371-2541
TERLINGUA RANCH LODGE 16000 Terlingua Ranch Rd., Terlingua (432) 371-3146
SHORT-TERM RENTALS www.airbnb.com, www.vrbo.com There are a wide variety of area lodging options through Airbnb and other short-term rental companies.
© TONY DREWRY 2018
www.ride4trails.com The annual Ride 4 Trails Motorcycle Rally is a fundraiser in mid-October (Oct. 12–13, 2018) that supports the trails program in Big Bend National Park. Bikers from all over the country converge on Big Bend Resorts & Adventures to participate in a weekend of live music, poker runs and great Texas barbecue — all to support the construction and maintenance of hiking and stock trails in the park.
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TOYAHVALE AND
Balmorhea
BALMORHEA STATE PARK In addition to the spring-fed pool, the State Park features the Cienega Wetlands Restoration, a refuge for indigenous aquatic and amphibian life. Visitors can stay in San Solomon Springs Courts or at the campground.
BALMORHEA LAKE
NETA RHYNE
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THE WATERS OF SAN SOLOMON SPRINGS SURFACE AT TOYAHVALE , WHERE THE 1.75-ACRE SPRING -FED SWIMMING POOL AT BALMORHEA STATE PARK PROVIDES VISITORS WITH A WELCOME OPPORTUNIT Y FOR REFRESHING RECREATION IN THE DESERT.
HE
POOL
GUADALUPE MTS. NP
maintains a constant tem- Van Horn perature of 72-76ºF, making it an ideal spot for swimming or scuba diving excursions year-round. Canals channel the water along Highway 17 into Balmorhea (pronounced BAL-
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moray), where a charming city park flanks the watercourse. Once TOYAHVALE a stagecoach stop between Fort Stockton and Fort Davis, the ToyFort Davis ahvale Post Office was established in 1891. The drive from Fort Davis on Highway 17 through the scenic BIG BEND NP Davis Mountains and Wild Rose Pass is one of the prettiest in the region. Odessa
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Only two miles south of Balmorhea on County Road 319 (Houston Street), this 600acre lake – stocked seasonally with a variety of fish – is a popular destination for birders. A $3 visitor fee is payable at the lake store. RV spaces and picnic areas are available. Swimming is not allowed.
CALERA CHAPEL Mission Mary at Calera is located west of Toyahvale on Highway 290. The church, which served the area from around 1902 into the 1940s, was restored in 2002.
TOYAHVALE DESERT OASIS The only outfitter by the park! Visit this fullservice dive shop for swim gear and to schedule scuba diving lessons in the crystal-clear waters of San Solomon Springs. Scuba and snorkeling gear rentals. Plus, all the supplies you’ll need to make your Balmorhea State Park visit fun, safe and memorable.
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Attractions GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK
VAN HORN VAN HORN IS THE CROSSROADS OF THE TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL .
Enjoy one of the most beautiful drives in Texas en route to the stunning and varied landscapes of the Guadalupe Mountains. Just one hour north of Van Horn, this national park is home to the highest peak in the state – Guadalupe Peak at 8,749 feet. Enjoy a variety of hiking trails accessible year-round, historic sites and interpretive displays. See page 21 for much more information on Guadalupe Mountains National Park. www.nps.gov/gumo
THE EL CAPITAN TO EL CAPITAN HERITAGE BIKE ROUTE A 55-mile ride along a scenic and historic route! Cyclists from all over are coming to ride Highway 54 between the Historic Hotel El Capitan and El Capitan Mountain in Guadalupe Mountains National Park. www.texasmountaintrail.com/bike.
CLARK HOTEL MUSEUM Anyone interested in the historical aspects of West Texas will want to stop at the Clark Hotel Museum. Located in the historic hotel that once served railroad travelers, this museum features pioneer, Native American and railroad memorabilia. The museum contains a stunning collection of artifacts reflecting the history of Van Horn and the surrounding area. There are displays showing the history of mining, ranching, the railroad and other early activities, as well as personal items which belonged to members of early pioneer families who first settled here. It features an old western-style saloon with a mirrored back bar, which have been in the same room since the early 1900s. www.clarkhotelmuseum.com
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Odessa
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Stockton and El Paso. Of the many A N HOR N WAS VAN HORN area attractions, a large number of established in visitors to Van Horn are those head1881, when the TexMarfa ing up to Guadalupe Mountains as and Pacific Railway National Park and on to Carlsbad came through. Before BIG BEND Caverns just across the Texas/New Mexthat, it was a stopping NP ico border. Many choose to stay in the point for travelers on the Old Spanish Trail and the newly remodeled historic Hotel El CapiSan Antonio-El Paso Overland Mail route. Today, Van Horn is the county seat of Culberson tan, one of the Trost & Trost hotels that dot this part County, sitting at the helm of the western portion of the country. The El Capitan is a newly remodeled of the region, almost exactly halfway between Fort gem of historic architecture.
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HOTEL EL CAPITAN 100 East Broadway (877) 283-1220 www.hotelelcapitan.net The Hotel El Capitan was built in 1930 based on designs by notable architect Henry Trost, of Trost & Trost of El Paso. After a $2.5 million renovation, the El Capitan is even more superb than in 1930. There are now 38 rooms and suites, a fine dining room and the Gopher Hole Bar.
BETH NOBLES
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Lodging GUADALUPE MTS. NP
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NIGHT SKY IN BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK
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DARK SKY COUNTRY by E. Dan Klepper
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RITING ABOUT the Big Bend region of
west Texas is a tough job, especially when trying to come up with new and creative ways to describe its natural beauty. Plenty has already been written about its dramatic landscapes, paragraphs that employ the usual suspects like “stunning”, “vast” and “breathtaking”. The same can be said of its plants and animals, a botanical and zoological compendium of species, including several found only here and nowhere else on the planet. Subjects like the Big Bend sunsets, thunderstorms, snowfall and rainbows along with the decorative words that describe them have all found their
way into articles, books, blogs and websites from Texas to Timbuktu. But one description seems to endure. A simple refrain that never really changes. As night falls in the Big Bend, visitors turn their gaze skyward and repeat this meme-worthy phrase from the 1968 film 2001: A Space Odyssey: “Oh my God, it’s full of stars”. The Big Bend region offers some of the darkest skies in the country, granting sky watchers remarkably clear views into our deepest space. To help locate your own personal stargate in the Big Bend, follow some tips below and find out how Big Bend communities are keeping the lights low and the stars shining bright.
PHOTOG RA PH BY L E E HOY
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STAR PARTY IN BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK
rapher who has been working in the Big Bend.” Harrison recommends periodically checking the park’s events calendar online for any upcoming programs like these. The park also participates in monitoring the progress of dark skies protection and preservation. “As part of the designation, we are required to monitor the quality of the night sky over time,” Harrison explains. “In an effort to do this we have developed a volunteer opportunity called the DarkSky Stewards program where we solicit members of the public with a background in astronomy or astrophotography to take observations or photos of the night sky and submit them to the park. The observations will be included in our annual report to the International Dark-Sky Association.” DARK SKY DESIGNATION SO WHAT EXACTLY does it take to attain “Dark
Sky” status? Amber Harrison describes the application process she went through for the state park: “We had to conduct a lighting inventory for every facility in the park, take a sky quality survey, develop a lighting management plan and conduct public programs. I’d say that learning about the technical aspects of lighting and developing the inventory and a lightscape management plan was one of the more challenging and interesting parts of the application for me.” ELSEWHERE AROUND THE REGION You don’t have to venture far into the outback to enjoy dark skies. Most of the Big Bend communities from Marathon to El Paso are bringing the importance of protecting and conserving our dwindling dark-sky resource to the forefront. MARATHON Home to the historic Gage Hotel (who modified all their lighting to accommodate sky watching) Marathon promotes astronomy from their own back yard. The Marathon Sky Park, located at the Marathon Motel on the edge of town, offers con-
© E. DAN KLEPPER
BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK IT DOESN’T GET any darker than in Big Bend National Park. When the park achieved national park status in 1944, a dark sky wasn’t considered a top-shelf resource. But over time, the opportunity to view stars unimpeded by artificial light diminished across the nation, the awareness of light pollution evolved and the value of a dark sky grew into a key feature for places like the Big Bend. Today, the national park considers their dark sky a primary asset. Once the National Park Service recognized the night sky as a critical resource it made changes to park lighting across the country to enhance and protect this integral part of the visitor experience. In Big Bend, the national park has undertaken lighting studies to gauge long-term changes in their night skies and incorporated lighting strategies to decrease the light signature of existing infrastructure. The park’s efforts culminated in achieving “Gold Tier International Dark Sky Park” status courtesy of find Big Bend Ranch State Park, “The the International Dark-Sky Aspreservation another 350,000-plus acres of sociation, an organization with a of our rural protected Chihuahuan Desert mission to help preserve and prowildlands. Like the national park, dark skies tect dark skies worldwide. Big Bend Ranch State Park has is the key “Big Bend National Park to our tourism also achieved Dark Sky Park desis noted for having the darkest ignation. An overnight on one of efforts. It’s measured night skies of any na- the best show several backpacking trails will valitional park in the lower 48 states,” date the achievement, providing in the explains Tom VandenBerg, Big astounding views of the night sky. Big Bend Bend’s Chief of Interpretation & and the price The park interior, located among Visitor Services. “We’ve been preof admission the peaks and canyons of the senting night sky programming is still free.” Bofecillos Mountains, is shielded since 2010 and will continue to from much of the regional light – BRAD NEWTON, work to keep our skies dark so that pollution leaking over the horizon DIRECTOR OF THE visitors will have a night sky that from the border town of PresiPRESIDIO MUNICIPAL DEVELOPMENT DISTRICT they will always remember.” dio and its sister city Ojinaga in Currently the national park Mexico. For the less adventurous, offers two regularly scheduled interpretive pro- a stop along any of the day-use and overnight grams about their night skies. “A Park Ranger’s campgrounds easily accessed by car from FM Guide to the Galaxy” is an orientation for begin- 170 (the paved, rural route running beside the Rio ning stargazers, a sensible introduction for kids Grande River) will also provide great star gazing and novices who wish to explore the universe opportunities. overhead. For visitors who would like be more “We promote dark skies mostly through proactive, “Some Endangered Evening” offers outreach and education programs and have partvisitors a park perspective on the negative impact nerships with organizations such as the McDonof artificial lighting and how individuals can help ald Observatory and the Big Bend Conservation to keep their own skies dark. Alliance,” explains Amber Harrison, Interpreter/ “This year we plan to expand our program- Park Ranger for Big Bend Ranch. The park just ming to include full moon hikes, night time as- completed a busy year and Harrison is hoping to tronomy programs, and perhaps weekly telescope repeat some of the popular programs that help viewings,” says VandenBerg. “We’ll have Big celebrate their Dark Sky Park status. Bend’s first astronomy volunteer arriving in Octo“In April we had guest speakers from the ber to help get these programs up and running for McDonald Observatory and Big Bend Conserour busy season. Big Bend will also be in the path vation Alliance and hosted a star party. In May of a lunar eclipse on January 21, 2019 and we hope we partnered with the Texas Chapter of the Into have a large event to celebrate. In addition, we’re ternational Dark-Sky Association and hosted highlighting the value of dark skies, and identify- another star party here at the park. Later in May ing the year’s major celestial events in a special ar- we worked with Big Bend Conservation Alliance ticle in this year’s park visitor newspaper.” and put on a dark-sky friendly outdoor lighting workshop. In June we hosted an astrophotograBIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK phy workshop at the Barton Warnock Visitor JUST UP THE road from the national park you’ll Center that was taught by a professional photog76 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
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crete telescope pad rentals (including 110 electricity outlets, Wi-Fi and a shade cloth to help block light intrusion), telescope rentals and even a small roll-off roof observatory for enthusiasts with their own equipment. Balancing a little astral-business with a lot of astral-fun, Marathon hosts the annual New Moon Festival featuring live music, food, rocket launches, a weather balloon launch, night sky viewing with telescopes at the Marathon Sky Park and a fundraiser to maintain the Marathon school district’s own telescope. “When people visit from the big city,” says Marathon Chamber of Commerce president Alaine Berg, “they look up at the sky and are amazed. I’ve heard many visitors say ‘I didn’t know I could ever see this many stars in the sky’.” Berg, co-owner of Eve’s Garden Bed & Breakfast, encourages visitors to enjoy the Garden’s own stargazing deck, an elevated platform shaped like a sunflower.
outdoor lighting. Nearby Davis Mountains State Park is also a good place to cast a gaze (or aim a telescope or binoculars) skyward. Thanks to nearby Fort Davis’ efforts to reduce light pollution, the state park enjoys nighttime viewing options. Or try one of the Nature Conservancy’s Open Weekends at their Davis Mountains Preserve where the mountain range’s highest peak, Mt. Livermore, is surrounded by a dazzling array of stars once the sun sets. Check the conservancy’s website for details. OTHER STATE PARKS TEXAS PARKS AND Wildlife offers a number of places to explore the galaxy, both deep within the CHINATI HOT SPRINGS, OUTSIDE OF PRESIDIO
MARFA
FROM TOP: © E. DAN KLEPPER, © E. DAN KLEPPER
MARFA, THE RANCHING and art-driven community besieged by mystery lights, offers its own unique blend of stargazing and fine art. “The Judd Foundation, with the support of our promotional organization Visit Marfa, opens artist Donald Judd’s home and studios in downtown Marfa each May for a star party for the community,” explains Andrea Walsh, Director of Communications for the Foundation. The annual event takes place over Memorial Day Weekend, usually on a Sunday evening. Free and open to the public, the community is invited to tour the art studios before an evening of star gazing with the Big Bend Astronomers club. Guests are encouraged to bring blankets, flash lights, picnics, binoculars and telescopes. “We welcome about 300 guests each year,” says Walsh. Just nine miles east of town on Highway 90, Marfa’s Mystery Lights Viewing Area is a great spot to view the stars while waiting to catch a glimpse of the oft-seen mystery lights. The viewing area features modified lighting to better view the night skies as well as any anomalies that might arise from the desert darkness.
Big Bend and along its periphery. “Our Devils River State Natural Area has begun the process of trying to obtain Dark-Sky Park designation,” says TPWD Regional Director Mark Lockwood. “It’s a rigorous process but Devils River (near Comstock and Del Rio) clearly meets the basic criteria. Otherwise, we’re working on dark-sky friendly lighting at our parks as well as promoting dark skies through interpretive tours. Over the past five years TPWD has partnered with McDonald Observatory to provide instructions to park interpreters and other staff across the state on dark sky interpretation.” GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS FAR NORTH OF the Davis Mountains, along the
Texas/New Mexico border, Guadalupe Mountains National Park has been making headway to keep up with their southern sister park with outreach, education and working towards Dark Sky designation. The park conducts star parties along their western flank, near Dell City, and works with an astronomy club out of El Paso for more formal programming. Check the park’s website for upcoming events. EL PASO SOME COMMUNITIES across the Big Bend may not be as lucky as other locations where enjoying a dark sky comes naturally. Despite their artificiallylit night skies, places like the heavily-populated El Paso continue to promote and support dark-sky initiatives. “Franklin Mountains State Park in El Paso is not a dark sky park and likely never will be,” explains park interpreter Lydia Pagel. “Although
McDONALD OBSERVATORY
FORT DAVIS AND MCDONALD OBSERVATORY A VISIT TO the dark skies of west Texas would not be complete without a personal hajj to the state’s own mecca of stargates — Fort Davis and the McDonald Observatory. The observatory’s weekly star parties are well-known throughout Texas for their fun and informative atmosphere. But many people don’t realize that the observatory is also a laboratory where research into deep space (as well as our closest star, the sun) happens year-round. The observatory (which is officially part of the University of Texas campus) takes outreach seriously, helping communities and individuals to understand the importance of preserving our dark skies and how each of us can help, sometimes simply by modifying our own existing BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 77
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the park itself has no artificial lighting whatsoever, the sky glow from the city of El Paso and its border city Juarez is way too strong for us to be a dark sky location. Despite this, we offer night sky viewing opportunities for El Pasoans by promoting astronomy programs with the help of Sun City Astronomers, organizing full moon hikes, and talking with visitors about the impacts of light pollution as well as the cultural importance of the night sky and constellations.”
THE TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL would like to recog-
nize a pioneer in the Texas tourism industry and a driving force in the Big Bend & Texas Mountains Travel Guide. Rondell Gene “Ron” Sanders passed away in June 2018 after a long battle with a variety of health issues. Ron, who never met a stranger, was instrumental in creating the Brewster County Tourism Council and in promoting Big Bend National Park to international audiences as a unique and intriguing Texas destination. He also began the Big Bend Snapshot Roadside Exhibit program, which highlights the history of Brewster County and has been recognized for its importance in preserving the history of the state’s largest county for generations to come. Ron Sanders Ron began his tourism career more than 50 years ago at Big Bend National Park, working his way up from housekeeping to general manager before being named a special projects director for Forever Resorts. He served on numerous boards across the state, including the Texas Hotel & Lodging Association and the Texas Historical Commission. Ron’s contributions to the tourism industry in Texas are too numerous to mention here. His creativity, no-nonsense approach to business and booming “Big as Texas” voice will remain with us in our memories. He’ll be missed by all of us at the Texas Mountain Trail and by his numerous colleagues across the state. Rest in peace, Ron.
Robert Alvarez Executive Director, Visit Big Bend
COURTESY DJ SANDERS
PRESIDIO AND BEYOND BACK IN THE heart of the Big Bend, the border community of Presidio (also plagued by light pollution but no less enthusiastic about protecting the night skies) has made major headway in bringing awareness about the importance of preserving Big Bend’s dark nights. “Presidio promotes and reviews dark-sky lighting plans on all new construction in town,” says Brad Newton, Executive Director of the Presidio Municipal Development District. “As older fixtures fail in the city we are working with the power company to replace them with dark-sky compliant fixtures.” In fact, despite the challenges in creating a dark sky habitat, Newton makes the best case for preserving our night skies throughout the Big Bend. “The preservation of our rural dark skies is the key to our tourism efforts,” he says. “It’s the best show in the Big Bend and the price of admission is still free.”
IN MEMORIAM
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Texas
MOUNTAIN TRAIL REGION
MUMUAYM/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
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DISCOVER THE ADVENTURE OF THE TRUE FRO NTIER . . . IT AWAITS YOU IN FAR WEST TE X AS .
mountains and high-country hikes. Sheer river canyons and winding back roads. Exotic panoramas and star-studded nights. Adventure in the unspoiled West awaits you in the Texas Mountain Trail Region of far West Texas. See land as early man saw it, as the Apache and Comanche saw it, as ranching pioneers saw it. Visit Big Bend National Park, hike the spectacular South Rim Trail. Follow the Butterfield Overland Stagecoach route through Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Visit our charming mountain communities, where cowboys may still go to lunch in town on horseback. Catch a performance at El Paso’s 1930 Plaza Theatre, in the heart of the museum district. Visit adobe missions, still used as churches for local congregations. We invite you to plan your own adventure! Travel by car, horse, motorcycle, bicycle, RV or by foot—the scenery and the history is REATHTAKING
unparalleled. Let the Texas Mountain Trail be your guide to discovery and adventure. Follow the historic 1960s driving route, the original “Texas Mountain Trail” to state and national parks, to the Big Bend of Texas, where the real West is still alive and ready for you to discover. Look no further than the rugged land of the Texas Mountain Trail Region, and you’ll see our history. Our state and national parks — “bucket list” destinations for most geologists — reveal a past of more than 600 million years of Paleozoic deep marine sediments, volcanic remnants and the bending, folding, and uplifting of land. Dinosaurs roamed our land some 248 million years ago, and Big Bend National Park is one of the world’s paleontological jewels of the world. In our Chihuahuan Desert climate, where there is water, there is the history of man. The Rio Grande gradually carved a deep notch in the mountains, creating a natural river crossing the Spanish explorers named El Paso del Norte. The river also created glorious canyons in Big Bend
National Park. Throughout the centuries, the climate grew hotter and the land drier. To survive, wildlife and prehistoric hunter-gatherers adapted to desert conditions. Later, diverse groups — Native Americans and Spanish missionaries, soldiers and miners, ranchers and railroaders — passed this way in search of wealth, glory and new beginnings. The Texas Heritage Trails Program (THTP) is the Texas Historical Commission’s (THC) award-winning heritage tourism initiative. This economic development initiative encourages communities, heritage regions and the state to partner and promote Texas’ historic and cultural resources. These successful local preservation efforts, combined with statewide marketing of heritage regions as tourism destinations, increase visitation to cultural and historic sites and bring more dollars to Texas communities. This in turn supports the THC’s mission to protect and preserve the state’s historic and prehistoric resources for the use, education economic benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations. BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 79
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Last Look
Winter Wonderland
LEE HOY
Weather in the Big Bend region is more varied than people expect. Although temperatures along the river are hot during the summer months, that time of year is also the rainy season. The communities to the north of Big Bend National Park — Marfa, Marathon, Alpine and Fort Davis — are all at higher elevations. As a result they enjoy comfortable summer temperatures compared to the rest of Texas. Snow is not an uncommon occurrence for these towns, and it can sometimes extend south to the national park.
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