Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto Wearable Art

FD (Inter Disciplinary Minor)

Introduction •

Yohji Yamamoto is a Japanese fashion designer based in Tokyo and Paris.

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he is known for his avant-garde tailoring featuring Japanese design aesthetics.

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Lauded as a blend of master craftsman and philosophical dreamer, Yamamoto has balanced the seemingly incompatible extremes of fashion's competing scales.

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Inspiration from the intangible, mainly images of historical dress from sources such as photographs, has been a mainstay in Yamamoto's work.

Early Career •

Along with his compatriot Rei Kawakubo, he designed his first high-end women's ready-towear collection in 1981 and presented it in Paris.

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Over the next two years, Kawakubo and Yamamoto pioneered the idea of deconstructed fashions. Their revolutionary aesthetic shocked the world with clothing that appeared to be unfinished, tattered, and haphazardly put together.

Rei Kawakubo with Yohji Yamamoto

Comme de Garcon

Yohji's Aesthetic •

The designer has become renowned for his avant-garde tailoring, featuring over-sized silhouettes and a restricted, dark palette.

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Although Yamamoto's work changed and evolved over the next two decades but it retained several key elements:

Gender Ambiguity •

He expressed an aversion to overtly sexualized females, and often dressed women in designs inspired by men's wear.

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This blend of erotic appeal and strength was a perfect template for Yamamoto to express his postwar version of male and female sexuality.

Spring 2012 Menswear

Yohji Yamamoto, A/W 2015

Yohji's Aesthetic Basic Black •

This early unrelenting black-on-black aesthetic earned his devotees the nickname karasuzoku, or members of the crow tribe.

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The aesthetic attributes to the role black plays in fashion, can be seen in the color's association with poverty.

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Yamamoto, often created day suits, dresses, ball gowns, and coats devoid of any ornament.

'Kimono: A Modern History' at Metropolitan Museum of Art

S/S 2019 , Paris Fashion Week

Yohji's Aesthetic Deconstructed Styles •

It is more likely that he combined a mélange of influences:

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the devastation and rapid rebuilding of Japan in the postwar era; the revolt against bourgeois tastes; an affiliation with European street styles.

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A desire, like that of the early proponents of abstraction in fine art, to find a universal expression of design by erasing elements that assign people to specific socioeconomic and gender roles.

Spring-Summer 2018

Fall 2011

Work •

YOHJI YAMAMOTO HAS ALWAYS REJECTED ANY CONVENTIONAL IDEAL OF PERFECTION TO FIND BEAUTY IN SCARS, FAILURE, DISORDER AND DISTORTION.

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2015, A limited-edition silk scarf for the 18oth anniversary of Le Meurice hotel in Paris, inspired partly by the universe of Salvador Dali, one of the hotel’s famous guests.

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AW 2015-16 , Inspired by the whimsical aspects of unfinished buildings.

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Painted leather aviator jacket (FW 1991)

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1973, The iconic image of Bowie in Yamamoto's jumpsuit

AW14- manga-printed, huge parachute coats and knitted masterpieces.

1983 , A collection based on the silhouette of a pencil case

Fall 2020, a deliberate return to his undone elegance from the late ’80s, newly treated with the vigor of someone undeterred by mortality.

2020, Replica line is bringing back key pieces from the famed designer’s Spring/Summer 1996 menswear collection.

Brands S’YTE

GroundY Y's Y's PINK Y's BANG ON! LIMI feu

discord Yohji Yamamoto NOIR Yohji Yamamoto HOMME BLACK Scandal

B Yohji Yamamoto GOTHIC YOHJI YAMAMOTO

Collaborations •

Yohji Yamamoto × Dr.Martens - Double Monk Strap Shoes (2019)

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Yohji Yamamoto's Y’s Enlists x VESSEL Chunky Lace-Free Low-Tops ( 2020)

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Yohji Yamamoto x adidas - YY Exclusive Drop 2 ( 2020) & Yohji Yamamoto x adidas – Y-3 (SS'2013)

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Discord Yohji Yamamoto Releases Leather Goods With a Japanese artist Naoya Inose (2020)

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Yohji Yamamoto x Hublot - All-Black Big Bang GMT Watch (2020)

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Yohji Yamamoto x Fred perry – Knit vest (SS' 2020)

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S’YTE (Yohji Yamamoto's online brand) x Manga Artist Junji (2019)

Awards •

1982- 26TH Fashion Editor's club award

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1986- Fourth Manichi national award, Tokyo

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1991- 35TH Fashion Editor's club award

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1994- Chevalier of Ordre des Arts et des Lettres , Nomination from the French Minister of Culture, Receives the 12th Mainichi Fashion Award, Tokyo

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1997- Receives the 40th Fashion Editors Club (FEC) Designer's Award, Tokyo, Receives the 40th Fashion Editors Club (FEC) Designer's Award, Tokyo

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1998- Receives the Award "Arte e Moda" given by Pitti Immagine, Florence

DFA Awards Exhibition at the HKDC Pavilion, Tokyo 1997

Awards •

1999- Receives the 18th Annual Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Awards' "International Award", New York

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2004- Receives the Medals of Honor called "Medal with Purple Ribbon" Nomination from the Government of Japan

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2005- Receives from the French president , the rank of Officer in the National order of merit.

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2011- Yohji Yamamoto was awarded the rank of Commander of the Order of Arts and Letters

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2017- Receives DFA(Design for Asia ) lifetime Achievement Award , Hong Kong

References •

https://theculturetrip.com/asia/japan/articles/yohji-yamamoto-the-japanese-designer-who-redefined-av ant-gardefashion/

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https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/11129/perpetual-revolution-the-paradox-of-yohji-yamamoto

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https://fashion-history.lov etoknow.com/fashion-clothing-industry/fashion-designers/yohji-yamamoto

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https://pen-online.com/design/yohji-yamamoto-and-dr-martens-drop-a-new-collaboration/?scrolled=0

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https://hypebeast.com/2020/7/yohji-yamamoto-ys-xv essel-gop-lows-sneaker-collaboration

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https://hypebeast.com/2020/7/yohji-yamamoto-adidas-yy-exclusiv e-second-collection-sc-premiere-sneaker-apparel

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https://theshopyohjiyamamoto.com/shop/g/gGN-K03-047-2-03/

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yohji_Yamamoto

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https://in.fashionnetwork.com/news/yohji-yamamoto-wins-dfa-lifetime-achiev ement-award,900091.html

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https://www.gq.com/story/archiv al-fashion-grails

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https://www.blue17.co.uk/vintage-blog/yohji-yamamoto/

Image References •

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http://rebloggy.com/post/fashion-x-comme-des-garcons-yohji-yamamoto-paper-magazine-reikawakubo/38810094073 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hV70DmJmQt8

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https://meappropriatestyle.com/tag/agender/

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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-menswear/yohji-yamamoto/slideshow/collection#4

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https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/442760207095779704/

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https://uk.fashionnetwork.com/news/yohji-yamamoto-master-of-deconstruction,875160.html

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https://whereartmeetsfashion.wordpress.com/tag/yohji-yamamoto/

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https://theculturetrip.com/asia/japan/articles/yohji-yamamoto-the-japanese-designer-who-redefined-av ant-gardefashion/

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https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/kansai-yamamoto-makes-a-return-to-the-london-catwalk-at-the-v a

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https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/yohji-yamamoto-le-meurice-scarf-10210408/

Thank You. - Dhwani Mistry & - Shroff Aditi