5 minute read

On Tap

By James Figy

Dude, where’s my beer?

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Listen, I’m not a narc.

Weed-infused drinks have been lighting up the market since the Minnesota Legislature legalized some forms of THC (aka tetrahydrocannabinol, or the stuff that gets you high) earlier this year. Tons of people have raved about them. Many craft beverage makers have jumped on the trend.

I gave them a good college try. But I’m not a fan. Before throwing stones, let me explain my two reasons. 1. What the Minnesota weed law doesn’t do

At its core, Minnesota Statute 151.72 allows companies to make and sell products with up to 5 milligrams of THC to anyone 21+ years old (as well as animals, for any stoner dogs reading this). For reference, 5 milligrams is typically the lowest dosage found at marijuana dispensaries, with 10- or 20-milligram edibles being more common.

The law stipulates packaging requirements (no marketing to kids); enforcement protocols (testing and so forth); and a maximum concentration of 0.3% THC to be called industrial hemp. Anything above that is still considered a controlled substance.

Ben Jordan, CEO of ABV Technology in St. Paul, sees the legalization of THC in beverages as a new revenue stream for Minnesota brewers and his company, which removes alcohol from traditionally brewed beer.

But whether you’re more of a Willie Nelson or a Nancy Reagan, most everyone agrees it’s not a great law.

“They wrote a Wild West bill, and that's what they created,” said Ryan Pitman, owner and brewer at Eastlake Craft Brewery in Minneapolis.

That’s coming from the guy who made a THC beer as soon as the law took effect on July 1. The result was Eastlake’s nonalcoholic pineapple mango sour, High & Dry. The initial three barrels (93 gallons) sold out in three days.

But like most, Pitman recognizes the issues in banking, insurance, retail and much more that the law doesn’t address.

So does Jordan. He brought together a group of leaders from those industries, as well as brewers and the state’s largest hemp producer, to draft legislative fixes. Here are two problem areas.

First, breweries may see a bump in revenue, but Minnesota won’t. Other states that have legalized cannabis typically levy new taxes, but our new law didn’t. This is a major missed opportunity, according to a study from the University of Minnesota-Duluth.

“Minnesota is likely not taking advantage of $5 million, at minimum, and possibly closer to $46 million in tax revenues in 2023, plus even more in coming years,” the study states.

Second, the group designated to oversee THC products, the Board of Pharmacy, has no “authority to regulate the growth or processing of hemp and the extraction of substances from hemp,” according to an FAQ it released June 30. The document also states, “The Board cannot give advice on the manufacturing of such products, nor can it offer legal advice.”

Powerless and unhelpful — now that’s a double threat.

Ryan Pitman of Eastlake Craft Brewery was among the first to make a THC-infused beverage. (James Figy)

2. Drinkable THC isn’t for everyone

In addition to Eastlake, Indeed Brewing Co., Bent Paddle Brewing Co. and Minneapolis Cider Co. are just a few of the craft beverage makers that began selling THC seltzers right away.

The cidery offers its Trail Magic line in-house and as a subscription, which ships statewide. Many others joined them. The THC is tasteless, so the fruity flavors of these drinks shine through.

All THC drinks are NA. The federal government regulates the creation of alcoholic beverages, so adding THC to a standard beer, cider or hard seltzer could imperil one’s brewing license.

Since that initial NA beer, Eastlake’s High & Dry series switched to seltzers, too. Partly because there are still legal concerns, but it also allows them to produce more, faster.

“It's going to be a part of our regular lineup as long as the state lets us,” Pitman said, adding that he was surprised at the reception. “... People really liked it. We got great feedback on the flavor and great feedback on the effects.”

While the law makes it clear that this is industrial hemp, the drinks do offer a high. But THC affects everyone differently, so it’s hard to know what to expect. Trail Magic’s website says, “Effects can typically be felt in 15 minutes and last for about an hour per serving.” But that’s not always the case.

I sampled Trail Magic’s twist on Arnold Palmer at Minneapolis Cider Co. I drank 16 ounces in 40 minutes, and didn’t feel anything until an hour later.

I’d written it off as a dud, but then everything felt slow, my mouth became dry, and warmth Eastlake’s High & Dry started as a sour beer, then became a series of seltzers. (James Figy) emanated from my head and chest. So I spent another hour sitting around the patio, sipping water and chatting in a stilted manner with a friend.

Several weeks later, while writing this article, I cracked open the High & Dry sour beer, which Pitman offered me for research. I thought the comfort of my home would facilitate a more relaxed trip. The beer was delicious and tart. But I felt nothing except for writer’s block — for four hours — before going to bed.

Who knows? Maybe I did it wrong. When relaxing, I typically reach for a beer. I enjoy comparing Minnesota breweries’ offerings and understand how they’ll affect me based on ABV.

That’s probably the dividing line. People who regularly enjoyed weed before the law will probably appreciate access to these new offerings. People who didn’t will ignore them. I don’t judge anyone in the first group at all, but I’ll probably remain in the second. Brewers I’ve talked to in Greater Minnesota haven’t even considered making THC drinks. But Pitman being among the first to make one seemed almost inevitable. “It feels like it fits right into what we do,” Pitman said. “We're making liquids. We're making things that people want to drink and hang out.”

James Figy is a writer and beer enthusiast based in St. Paul. In Mankato, he earned an MFA in creative writing from Minnesota State University and a World Beer Cruise captain’s jacket from Pub 500. Twitter and Instagram: @JamesBeered

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