Issuu

Celebrating San Juan County, Colorado’s 150th Anniversary

Summer/Fall 2026

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Welcome to Silverton Welcome to Silverton!

Welcome to the 2026 Destination Silverton Summer Guide. Where you’ll uncover and discover the magic of Silverton and San Juan County. Carved by rugged peaks, wild landscapes, and an untamed spirit, Silverton is a secluded mountain hamlet tucked deep within the San Juans. Our valley is only reachable by winding mountain highway, high alpine jeep roads, or historic narrow-gauge railroad. It remains one of Colorado’s most unforgettable destinations. In 2026, San Juan County will celebrate its 150th anniversary – marking a century and a half of captivating visitors and locals alike. Summer in the San Juans is unlike anywhere else, where alpine adventures meets enduring western spirit. Explore the backroads of our county, hike through a field of wildflowers, or take a scenic bike ride through Baker’s Park beneath an aspen forest and towering mountain peaks. In town, you’ll find a community that proudly celebrates its history, arts, and the natural beauty surrounding it. Take a gander through our colorful Western downtown filled with shops, galleries, restaurants, and local character. Step into the past by hopping aboard the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad or explore our rich mining and frontier history through museums, mine tours, and preserved landmarks. We also honor the ancestral homelands of the Núuchiú (Ute people), whose connection to these mountains long predates the arrival of miners and mountaineers. We recognize and respect their enduring relationship with these lands. As you enter our mountains, slow down, breathe the alpine air, and settle into the music of the peaks. Welcome to Silverton, where history still lives, the mountains inspire, and the wild calls to the untamed hearts. Cheers to summer 2026, The Silverton Standard & the Miner Crew

Photo by: DeAnne Gallegos

S u m m e r co n te n ts

Welcome

The Windgate House

A Brief History of San Juan County

Silverton Creative District

18-19

Creative Happenings

Where History Still Runs the Rails

Mystery in the Mountains

Silverton Must See Attractions

28-29

Silverton Map

Burros, Brothels, & Boarding Houses

An Elevated Escape

A publication of

The Silverton Standard & the Miner

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Windgate House the

historic Victorian bed & breakfast Photos by: The Windgate House Words by: Brady Snow

“The Windgate combines historic & artistic charm erched on the hill west of the main street in Silverton, Colorado, stands an elegant Victorian house. with modern comfort”

Its porch overlooks the towering Kendall Mountain and the quaint mountain town. This is the Wingate House Bed & Breakfast. The home has as much historic and artistic charm as it does in its comforting and luxurious accommodations for single-room stays or full-house rentals for larger parties.

The stunning Wingate Bed & Breakfast is built on the hill overlooking Silverton and the surrounding mountains.

When you stay at the Wingate House B&B, you are staying in the historic home of the late, renowned San Juan Mountains painter Judith Graham. This charming Victorian retreat basks in mountain comfort & artistic legacy. The home was originally built in the Victorian style in 1886, only 12 years after the town of Silverton was established as a mining camp that became a town. The home was restored by the late San Juan Mountain painter, Judith Graham, in the 1990s and served as a Bed & Breakfast that Judy ran while also using the studio out back for her vivid fine art paintings of landscape and the surrounding San Juan Mountains. It is now run by Judy’s daughter, Quai Barker. The Wingate House B&B reflects Judy’s vision of beauty, warmth, and hospitality. Her artwork, antiques, and collected treasures continue to grace the rooms and halls, preserving her legacy as both artist and host. The home offers beautifully restored Victorian rooms that blend modern comfort with timeless elegance. Each room is designed to provide a cozy retreat after a day of exploring Silverton, Colorado, and the surrounding mountains, where one can hike, fish, drive OHVs on the rugged dirt roads, hunt, explore the local mining history, or, if you’re visiting in the winter, ski and snowmobile too. The home features a spacious outdoor area perfect for barbecues and grilling. The porch and the yard have some of the best views in town for the 4th of July fireworks.

A peek inside one of the five comfortable Victorian style rooms.

“The Windgate combines historic & artistic charm with modern comfort”

Guests will enjoy plush bedding, soft towels, and elegant toiletries. They can unwind in one of two inviting jetted bathtubs after a day of exploring the high country. The fully equipped kitchen features elegant table settings for all cozy gatherings. There is Wi-Fi and a dedicated workspace, a washer & dryer, and pets are allowed. Framed by the peaks that inspired Judith’s paintings, this home offers a timeless blend of art, history, & Silverton charm. Make it the location of your next mountain getaway or family retreat. Visit wingatehouse.com for more information.

Guests can relax and enjoy the large bathtub and luxurious amenities provided at the Wingate House or sit on the porch to take in the views and mountain air.

The Wingate House Historic Victorian Bed & Breakfast in Silverton, CO

wingatehouse.com Questions? Contact Quai Barker 303.968.6811 • barkerquai@gmail.com

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A Brief History of

San Juan County

Words by: Katey Fetch

San Juan County is celebrating 150 years as one of Colorado’s most rugged and secluded destinations. Silverton is the county’s only incorporated town and the county seat. Despite its smaller population today, the area played a major role in Colorado’s railroad, mining, and pioneer history.

County in search of gold, the land was the seasonal home of the Ute tribes. Many of the mountains and rivers surrounding San Juan County bear Spanish names, and it is believed that Spanish explorers passed through the area or nearby during the 1700s. Later in the 1840s, mountain men worked many of the region’s streams Going back tens of millions of years, San and valleys trapping beaver. Juan County was home to mountain uplift, massive volcanic eruptions, and later glaci- Early placer mining started in the early ation, all of which helped shape the dramat- 1860s with the arrival of the Baker Party. ic, jagged landscape we see today. The broad basin where Silverton now sits is called Baker’s Park. Colorado’s mining Long before miners flocked to San Juan 12

boom erupted in the 1860s and 1870s, and the first hard rock prospectors arrived in 1870. In 1873, the Brunot Agreement was signed with the Utes, opening millions of acres of former Ute lands to mining and settlement. This sparked a flood of prospectors searching the San Juans for gold and silver. San Juan County was officially created in 1876, though the town of Silverton had been incorporated in 1874. At that time, the county covered a much broader area than it does today and was part of La Plata County. Mining transformed the region, causing Silverton to boom. Thousands of miners, merchants, and businesses poured into the area, and small towns popped up throughout the county. With them came a thriving market for vice, and Silverton’s red-light district emerged along what is now sometimes called “Notorious” Blair Street. A major part of San Juan County’s development came at the hands of famed road builder Otto Mears, who constructed toll roads and railroads throughout the mountains. In 1881, the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad reached Silverton, allowing lower-grade ores to be shipped out of the mountains to the smelter in Durango, while coal, supplies, people, and opportunity flowed in. Mining was a boom-and-bust cycle tied to metal prices, which could be influenced by financial panics, the First and Second World Wars, or overall demand for metals. The days of small-scale mining and prospectors gave way to corporate mining, as large mines such as the Sunnyside, Gold King, Silver Lake, Iowa, and Mayflower mines took over the area, employing hundreds of miners on their payrolls. Mining continued in the region for more than a century before gradually declining. The last major mine in the area, the Sunnyside, closed in 1991. By then, Silverton was mining a different kind of “gold,” tourists. Today, San Juan County is a hub for outdoor recreation, preservation, and history. Visitors can ride the historic Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, explore old mining roads by foot or 4x4, ski the surrounding mountains, visit ghost towns, and wander Silverton’s historic Victorian streets.

Photos: Left page, top left, Silverton in 1890s provided by the San Juan County Historical Society. Top right: A recent photo of Silverton provided by the Silverton Chamber of Commerce. Lower, a view from Kendall Mountain overlooking San Juan County, by Katey Fetch. Right hand page, top, men outside the Silver Lake mill around 1903-1906 provided by the San Juan County Historical Society. Lower, logo design by Gina Rosato

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Celebrates Local Artist Community

Words by: DeAnne Gallegos

There’s something about Silverton, Colorado, that sticks with people long after they leave. Maybe it’s the majestic mountain peaks rising sharply above town, the historic buildings downtown, or the feeling that life still moves a little differently here in the San Juan Mountains. Tucked into this rugged high alpine mountain town is something many visitors don’t expect - a surprisingly vibrant creative artist community. The Silverton Creative District isn’t a polished tourist attraction built to imitate culture; it’s real. It’s local artists opening their studio doors. It’s musicians playing on summer evenings. It’s photographers chasing alpenglow up high in the San Juan Mountains and artists trying to capture the mood of the ever-changing seasons in the San Juans. Walk down Greene Street or Blair Street, and you’ll find creativity woven into everyday life. Historic storefronts hold art galleries, handmade goods, community spaces, and local businesses that reflect the personality and creativity of the people who live here. The town’s mining history is still visible everywhere, but instead of being frozen in the past, Silverton has found a way to blend history with arts and culture. You’re not just buying art; you’re meeting the local artists who created it. You’re hearing stories about life in a mountain town that survives long winters, celebrates its history, and values its independence. The homegrown, local nonprofit Silverton Creative District was founded in 2018 to inspire, create, and promote the local arts community. This nonprofit’s mission was to become a State of Colorado Certified Creative District, a designation that requires a long list of boxes to check. In 2026, the Silverton Creative District finally hit that goal under the leadership of the current Executive Director Lisa Branner. Longtime Silverton local Lisa Branner has also been named the 2026 Next Wave Leadership Award winner by the and her recognition by her peers highlights the Silverton Colorado Business Committee for the Arts (CBCA) in April art community. “From the start, my goal was to transform for her achievements in supporting the arts. how Silverton views creativity, not as a luxury or seasonal attraction, but as infrastructure for year-round vitality. I Branner said of winning the coveted award, “I’m truly hon- don’t think of myself as a leader in the conventional sense. I ored to be recognized alongside so many inspiring leaders see myself more as a cheerleader, a convener, and a facilitafrom across the state. This award celebrates people who are tor. What motivates me is a desire to see Silverton thrive.” doing extraordinary work for their communities, and to be counted among them is humbling.” Lisa Branner has been The Silverton Creative District puts on events throughout the driving force behind moving the SCD toward their goals, the year that bring even more energy to town. Live music, art walks, film fests, workshops, and community art festivals give both locals and visitors reasons to interact with and celebrate Silverton artists. In a small community like Silverton, those moments matter. They create connections, support local businesses, and remind people that creativity can thrive anywhere, even at 9,318 elevation feet. For travelers looking for more than crowded mountain towns or predictable vacation stops, Silverton offers something so much more. The artist community downtown invites people to slow down, explore, and experience the town beyond its scenery. Yes, the mountains are spectacular, but the people and the creativity are what make Silverton memorable. In many ways, the Silverton Creative 16

District reflects the spirit of the town itself: resilient, independent, historic, and inspiring. For more information on the Silverton Creative District, the Silverton Summer Sounds concert series, First Friday Art Walk, Silverton Creates Art Festival, MountainFilm, or the winter Mistletoe Market, go to silvertoncreativedistrict.org. Photos: Left page lower, local artists at the Silverton Creates Festival. Left page top, Lori Nixon, Barbara McLachlan, and Lisa Branner at the Silverton Summer Sounds Concert. Right hand page top, the drink tent at the Silverton Creates Festival. Lower, an image from Silverton Summer Sounds Concert Series. All photos by DeAnne Gallegos

SUMMER SOUNDS

SILVERTON CREATES

FIRST FRIDAY ART WALK

presents

SilvertonCreativeDistrict.org

JUN 12 • JUL 10 • AUG 14 SEPT 11 & 12

SEPT 12

EventsInSilverton.com

JUN 5 • JUL 3 • AUG 7 • SEPT 4

JOIN US for ART, MUSIC & MORE June: Art & Eats July: Christmas in July August: Then, Now, Next September: Gold Rush

maker's market music • food • libations fall foliage • fun

Free Live Music • Memorial Park • 6 - 9pm

Memorial Park • 11am - 5pm & 7 - 9pm pm

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Downtown Silverton • 4 - 7pm

CREATIVE Event Schedule

IN & AROUND SILVERTON

Photos: Top, A Theater Group’s live 2025 Boudoir Below production. Lower left, Silverton locals enjoying the live music in the park at the Summer Sound Concert. Right, Silverton Creative district members and volunteers at the Silverton Creates Festival. Right hand page: The Silverton Brass Band All photos by DeAnne Gallegos

Silverton offers more than just outdoor adventures; creative events are ongoing throughout each season. From live productions by A Theater Group, workshops and art markets at The Powerhouse Collective, paint nights, Silverton brass band playing on Sundays, and creative kids’ activities. Whether you’re an artist, maker, or simply looking for a fun community event, Silverton offers many ways to experience the town’s creative culture. To stay up to date with all creative happenings in and around Silverton

visit www.whatshappeningsilverton.com

June July Aug Sept

June 5: First Friday • Downtown Silverton • 4-7 pm June 12: Summer Sounds Concert • Memorial Park 6-9 pm July 3: First Friday • Downtown Silverton • 4-7 pm July 10: Summer Sounds Concert • Memorial Park 6-9 pm July 24: A Theater Group • Boudoir Below • Grand Imperial • 7:30 pm July 25: A Theater Group • Boudoir Below • Grand Imperial • 7:30 pm July 31: Great Western Rocky Mnt Brass Band Festival • Silverton School Gym • 7 pm Aug 1: Great Western Rocky Mnt Brass Band Festival • Silverton School Gym • 7 pm Aug 2: Great Western Rocky Mnt Brass Band Festival • Silverton School Gym • 12 pm Aug 7: First Friday • Downtown Silverton • 4-7 pm Aug 14: Summer Sounds Concert • Memorial Park 6-9 pm Aug 21: A Theater Group • One Act Plays • Grand Imperial • 7:00 pm Aug 22: A Theater Group • One Act Plays • Grand Imperial • 7:00 pm Sept 4: First Friday • Downtown Silverton • 4-7 pm Sept 11: Summer Sounds Concert • Memorial Park 6-9 pm Sept 12: Silverton Creates Maker’s Market • Memorial Park • 10am-5pm Sept 12: Season Finale Concert • Memorial Park 7-9 pm *The Silverton Brass Band plays on Sundays starting in July

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For 144 years now, residents of Silverton and Durango have been attuned to the sound of the whistle from the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad coming down the Animas Valley or Canyon. What most people don’t know is that Durango was actually founded as a rail town by the Denver & Rio Grande Railway in 1879. Specifically, to haul ore and supplies for the mines in Silverton, where some of the richest mineral deposits in the West had just been struck. By 1882, 45 miles of three-foot-wide, narrow-gauge track had been laid along the Animas Canyon, and Silverton was no longer only reachable by treacherous and expensive pack trails. The choice to lay a narrow-gauge track was made because it is significantly more affordable to build/maintain and has the ability to climb steeper and sharper curves than a standard-gauge railroad. However, there have always been rumors that it was an active decision to have only enough room for single-bed sleeping cars to prevent unmarried members of the opposite sex from sharing a bed.

Runs the

By Kendra Hooper

San Juan County Historical Society

Although initially the purpose was built to serve the rich mineral deposits by moving ore to a lower altitude where processing was much easier, it was inevitable for the train to become a lifeline for every aspect of Silverton. During the particularly harsh San Juan winters when snow can pile higher than the railcars, the train served as the only connection to the outside world by bringing mail, hay for livestock, and critical medications to residents. With undeniably one of the most scenic lines in the United States, it was officially promoted as a tourist line starting shortly after completion, in July of 1882. According to Don Stott’s “Three Feet to Silverton,” at one time, you could book a sleeping car in Silverton, transfer in Durango, and ride by rail all the way to Denver in roughly 30 hours. The establishment of the D&SNGRR earned Silverton the title of “Narrow-Gauge Capital of the World” and laid the foundation for an additional three railroad lines to be constructed out of Silverton. Those lines, now long abandoned, were the Silverton Northern serving the Animas Forks vicinity, the Silverton Line serving the Red Mountain District, and the Silverton Gladstone & Northerly serving the Gladstone area. After transporting an estimated $300 million in precious metals out of the San Juans, the D&SNGRR remained a dual-service railroad for freight and passenger service until 1951.

train pulls up at 12th and Blair Street, we are incredibly fortunate to experience one of the best living museums of the American West. Next time you hear the whistle down the canyon, take time to reflect on the significance that sound has meant for so many years and to so many people.

After World War 2, there was a tourist boom all across the United States, and Southwest CO was no exception. After persisting through many economic perils, environmental disasters, and ownership changes, the D&SNGRR was happy to shift its focus toward the influx of tourism. The railroad had a dedicated summer passenger service, bringing people from Durango to Silverton for an afternoon, just like we see now decades later. One could actually say it was after the shift to tourism that the D&SNGRR got its “big break,” by being featured in at least 20 feature films. Some of the most notable appearances include Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid (1969), Around the World in 80 Days (1956), Ticket to Tomahawk (1950), and a Gunsmoke episode. It is undeniable that the D&SNGRR has attracted and established residents of Silverton for as long as the tracks have been laid. Local Fritz Klinke fondly remembers traveling to Silverton for the first time by rail, by himself at 15 years old in the 1950s. As a child fascinated by trains, he had come by Greyhound bus from Denver to Durango with the sole purpose of riding the famous line to Silverton. He remembers having a “lousy lunch” in town and getting caught in a rainstorm, thinking to himself, “I am never coming here again”. However, like so many of us today, he couldn’t help but be captivated by the scenery of the San Juans, even if the weather was lousy and his burger left something to be desired. So, he found himself back in the area the very next year, where he was offered a seat on a private business class railcar known as “Nomad”, which had previously been on museum display in a local hotel. This time, when he got to Silverton, he didn’t take his return trip and stayed for three weeks. As soon as Fritz was an adult, he bought his home here in Silverton and never had any intention of living anywhere else. Whether you are a lifelong resident of Silverton or a first-time visitor arriving by rail, it is undeniable that every time the

Photos (clockwise): Aug 1, 1955 - View of Denver & Rio Grande Western locomotive No. 476 standing on 12th Street in Silverton • 1906- Train emerging from snowshed at Snowshed Slide • 1906- Large work party clearing tracks of the D&SNGRR at the Snowshed Slide between Silverton and Elk Park All photos provided by San Juan County Historical Society

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Specializing in Wildlife of the San Juans! Learn about the amazing wildlife that live among the rugged peaks and high elevation river valleys of the San Juan Mountains! Wesley Berg specializes in photographing wildlife in their natural environment, especially the mammals and birds that live high in the San Juans. Visit wesleybergphotography.com or stop by The 9318 Collective at 1212 Greene Street in Silverton to learn more and to see his amazing photos. His wildlife prints are available in a variety of sizes, framed or unframed, printed on metal or photo paper. You can also custom order your favorite photo printed exactly the way you want! In addition, you will find a variety of greeting cards and several of his photo books on wildlife, including his latest “Silverton Moose Stores”, which is a collection of stories and photos of the moose that live in the San Juans.

Full Hook-Up RV Sites Tent Camping Along the Animas River Luxury to Rustic Cabins On-Site General Store Immaculately Maintained Bathrooms 2nd location has easy access to shops and restaurants downtown

direct ohv trail access from campsite

970.387.9888 2100 Kendall Pl. Silverton, CO

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Mystery in the Mountains

April of 1897 brought strange visitors to the San Juans… visitors perhaps not of this world? The Silverton Standard newspaper reported unsettling accounts of strange happenings in Silver Lake, a remote mining community sitting in the mountains above Silverton.

He was well known for his truth-telling and for never drinking anything stronger than Hood’s Sarsaparilla, of which he only drank in the springtime.

These accounts were reported six years before the Wright Brothers pierced the skies at Kitty Hawk. At a time when human flight was mostly a distant dream, these mysterious lights and luminous ships were brilliant enough to turn On Sunday, April 10, 1897, around 9 pm, several gentlemen night into day in the San Juans. What were these strange reported seeing flashing lights moving across the valley. ships gliding through a sky we had yet to claim, and have These lights burned a deep red, with some bursts lasting over they ever truly left? two minutes. These lights were so brilliant that they illuminated the surrounding peaks as if it were midday. “The wonderful phenomenon was apparently a thousand yards square, and lighted up a vast area of the country lying under it, showing the mountain summits, cliffs, etc., as plainly as the rays of the noon day sun. There were no less than a dozen flashes of this most mysterious light, the source of which is yet unfathomable; the duration of each flash being about two minutes” (The Silverton Standard 1897). Weeks later, on April 24th, a nightwatchman, Mr. T.K. Holden, encountered something even stranger. He was making his rounds when he spotted a pair of yellow lights gliding in from the west. The lights hovered at about 1000 feet from the ground and remained a steady 8 feet apart. What he saw next left him, in his own words, “spellbound.” The moon was shining bright enough that he could clearly see a vessel outlined in the night’s sky. He reported that the airship was suspended in the air and estimated it to be 24 feet long and 8 feet wide. “The ship was sailing in a due easterly course toward Mount Solomon. Mr. Holden said that as he stood watching the ship, expecting that if it kept on its regular course it would be dashed against the top of the mountain with terrific force as the velocity at which it was moving was at least sixty miles an hour, and that against a stiff breeze, but to his surprise, it began rising and by the time it reached the summit, cleared the mountain by at least 75 feet above the highest point” (The Silverton Standard 1897). The Silverton Standard took care to report that the witness, Mr. Holden, was a man of good standing in the community. 24

Photo: (top) Two brick buildings overlooking the now ghost town of Silver Lake where the incident occurred. (Lower): A view of the ruins of Silver Lake and surrounding mountains. Photos by: Sterling Blankenship

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Silverton’s

Must-See Attractions and Mountain Adventures

Photos by: (Top) Old Hundred Boarding House by Robert Massey Photography (follow on facebook), (right) Interior of the Mining Heritage Center and Museum by Scott Fetchenhier, (lower) Molas Lake by DeAnne Gallegos Words by: DeAnne Gallegos & Katey Fetch

Words by: Katey Fetch

Silverton, Colorado, feels like a step back in time. Beyond its Wild West charm, Silverton invites visitors to explore, slow down, and take in the sights and sounds that make this place so special. With a unique blend of history, nature, and mountain town, there is something to be discovered around every corner and bend in the trail.

boom years. Today, it is home to shops, art galleries, restaurants, and bed-and-breakfasts. It is also where the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge train drops off its passengers daily. Anesi Park offers public restrooms, pay showers, a concert stage, and a visitor center kiosk.

The Mining Heritage Center: Boasting multiple levels of displays, including an immersive mine exhibit, Silverton’s Mining Heritage Center is considered one of the best mining history museums in the country and is a must-visit attraction. More information at www.sanjuancountyhistoricalsociety.org.

Railroad Park: Located south of downtown, the park offers visitors a chance to step into Silverton’s railroad past. The park is home to historic railroad equipment and the restored Silverton Northern Engine House. It’s a great place to explore, take photos, and learn more about the railroads that helped shape Silverton. Christ of the Mines Shrine: If you look up towards the center of Anvil Mountain on the north side of town, you’ll spot a 16-foot statue of Jesus. The 12ton marble monument was erected in the summer of 1959 to look over the town and protect our community and the local mining economy.

Notorious Blair Street: This section of Blair Street was home to bars, brothels, and bunkhouses for the miners in the town’s

Mayflower Mill: Built in 1929 to process ore from the nearby Mayflower Mine, the Mayflower Mill sits outside Silverton across from the breathtaking Arra26

stra Gulch. Highlights of the self-guided tours include the impressive aerial tram system spanning the gulch, complete with original ore buckets, and moving machinery that depicts how gold, silver, and other metals were processed. More information at www.sanjuancountyhistoricalsociety.org. Molas Lake: Located just outside of town at over 10,000 feet, Molas Lake is a favorite destination for nature lovers and outdoor adventures. Visitors can enjoy fishing, kayaking, canoeing, stand-up paddleboarding, and more. The area also offers direct access to hiking and biking trails, along with exceptional star-gazing under some of Colorado’s darkest skies.

Old Hundred Gold Mine was discovered in 1872 by the Niegold brothers. The adventure begins with an open-air mine train that carries visitors 1,500 feet underground into Galena Mountain. Once inside, knowledgeable guides, often former miners themselves, will demonstrate the equipment that helped shape Silverton’s mining legacy. More information is available at www.minetour.com. To discover even more things to do, places to eat, lodging options, museums, and tours, visit silvertoncolorado.com. Silverton offers unforgettable experiences, stunning scenery, and plenty of opportunities to make lasting memories in the mountains.

The Old Hundred Gold Mine: Located outside Silverton near the historic ghost town of Howardsville, the

Photos: Left page top, the Old Hundred boarding house that sits in the cliffs on Galena Mountain, by Katey Fetch. Lower, displays at the Mining Heritage Museum by Scott Fetchenhier. Right page top, Molas Lake by DeAnne Gallegos. Lower, tourist enjoying the Old Hundred mine tour, by Katey Fetch.

Judith Graham

Paintings of Place, Memory, and the Mountain West

judithgraham.com Questions? Contact Quai Barker 303.968.6811 • barkerquai@gmail.com

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Words by: Kendra Hooper San Juan Country Historical Society

There is no doubt, mining itself was a man’s world. However, just as many women came West in search of new lives as men. Negotiating the new Western world as a woman was unnerving, but as a general rule, the women of mining camps were treated with respect and rarely faced danger. Rather, they fell into various roles, including schoolteachers, boarding house attendants, homemakers, shopkeepers, and even prostitutes. As soon as a mine reached any sort of measurable size, a boarding house was typically one of the next structures established nearby. This was particularly necessary in the San Juans, where many of our mines were located above treeline and required dedication to access. After a long, dark, and damp shift in the mine, the thought of traveling back to town was often inconceivable to a single miner. So, they would allocate a portion of their pay toward room and board on site. Usually run by the wife of a mine executive or sometimes a single woman, a boarding house brought the only feminine touch to an otherwise very dirty and uncomfortable world. Ranging in size from an extra room in an existing cabin to a purpose-built structure up to five stories tall, some accommodations were certainly more desirable than others. As a boardinghouse attendant, your day typically started well before the first shift, by preparing an in-house breakfast and sending each miner off with a pail packed with lunch. All of this in addition to preparing multiple shift dinners, maintaining the heat, cleanliness, grocery inventory, and general contentment of her guests. The importance of this con-

“

she wanted no more whores, no more gambling, no more horses, no more dogs or cows running loose

”

tentment is clearly described by a 1900’s miner, Edward Pierce: “Four meals a day were served in these places, and that seemed adequately to take care of the three shifts. No one ever complained about service, quantity, or quality. It is evident that the mine owners realized that to hold men on the job, it was greatly to their benefit to feed them well.” One of the most notable boarding house figures in Silverton history is Mrs. Lena Stoiber, the wife of Silver Lake mining engineer Ed Stoiber. As one of the largest operations in the San Juans, Ed quickly became overwhelmed with managing both the daily and engineering components of the mine, turning over the dayto-day operations to his wife, Lena. This transfer of duties was something unheard of at a time when women weren’t even permitted inside the mines. She quickly became the most desirable employer and hostess in the area. By 1897, Silver Lake offered a five-story boarding house equipped with attached bathrooms, a dining room capable of seating 250 men for service, a barber shop, and even a library/reading room. Lena’s remarkable accommodations and attention to miners’ needs undoubtedly were a large reason Silver Lake Mining complex was one of the most profitable in all of Colorado. For as long as mines, boarding houses, and mining camps have existed, so have banks, saloons, and brothels. Here in Silverton, we were no exception to that progression of growth, including brothels. During the early years, there is little record-keeping regarding locations, ownership, and “employees” of these establishments. However, by 1897, it was a common enough practice to warrant an inclusion in the town ordinances, with fines established for both owners of “bawdy houses” and “any prostitute who shall be an inmate of such house”. These fines acted as a revenue source for the growing town and helped fund the city government, even paying for some of the sidewalks in town. As such, it was common for those fines to be paid once a month and business to continue on as before. It has even been said that manage-

Photos (clockwise): Date: 1903 - Iowa Tram Terminal at Silverton Northern RR track level, showing double track. Edith Dyson at right. Date: ca 1958 - Photo taken for promotion of melodrama and entertainment at the Bent Elbow on Blair Street in Silverton. Patty Nestor, sitting atop piano, 2-Helene Crawford at keyboard. Photographer: Frank Bostock. Assumed autumn 1909 - View of Silverton teachers preparing to embark on an outing by team and wagon. It is presumed this was a trip which was arranged for the new teachers in the school that year.

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All photos provided by San Juan County Historical Society

ment of the Sunnyside Mine felt that prostitutes helped keep jobs in town, just like Lucille? Women have always been and their men happy. In his book “Silverton Gold,” Allen Bird tells continue to be the backbone of a small town like Silverton. a story of a particularly harsh winter in which the manager Photos: Top left: “George”, Lucille Bowman’s mule on Stormy Peak. This was taken during contacted a Silverton madam to bring some of her girls to the an intense electrical storm and every time there was a clap of thunder, ‘George’ would bray mine to keep his men from becoming unruly. Riding in the top right: Silverton Dude Corral, owned by Lucille Bowman, shown in the photograph aerial tram over the deep snow, the ladies set up shop in the Lower: 1913 a women’s club on a porch in Silverton boarding house. After leaving a few weeks later, one woman All photos provided by San Juan County Historical Society had earned $600, close to $20,000 in today’s dollars. That is not to say all in town were in favor of the world’ oldest profession. Many schoolteachers, miners’ wives, and others generally looked down upon the “women of the night” and actively avoided engaging with them or even sharing space with them. It did not take long for the town to be essentially divided into two. By 1884, the town was officially divided “West of the alley lying between Blair and Greene streets,” essentially designating Blair St as a red-light district. Although ill-reputed, many of the women employed on Blair Street were of remarkably good nature. This was never more prevalent than during the Flu Epidemic of 1918, when several women nursed the infected and lost their lives because of it. Blair Street remained a place for miners to spend their time away from the boarding houses for many years, up until about World War 2. Around that time, the daughter of the Grand Imperial Hotel was elected to the city council and was quoted as saying, “she wanted no more whores, no more gambling, no more horses, no more dogs or cows running loose” in town. She was successful in her undertaking, and that was considered the end of Silverton’s red-light district. There are too many women in Silverton’s illustrious history to ever be included in one article, however one that may still resonate with some of our longtime residents is Lucille Bowman, hairdresser and owner/operator of Silverton Dude Corral. The front of her business was a hair salon, and a corral was attached to the back. Lucille lived in Silverton for almost 60 years and was described as a “hell-raising, ornery, readyto-fight, loving and ready to curl your hair kind of woman”. Customers recall being left under a hair dryer for too long, only to find her out back flirting with a cowboy by her horses. Lucille was the first woman in the state to obtain an outfitter’s license, renting out her animals to tourists for daily wilderness trips. Longtime Silverton resident and SJCHS chairperson Beverly Rich recalls Lucille from her childhood, “She started perming my hair when I was just a little girl. Back then, the tourists would always return from the mountains with her horses around 4 pm. Lucille would undress their saddles and have some of us kids ride them bareback across town to their pen by the train, where they would spend the night waiting for more tourists to rent them the next day. This lets us kids hang out with the horses and take some of the work off her back!” Next time you’re driving out in our incredible backcountry, take note of some of the mining foundations still around. Were any of them boarding houses, with flowers in a vase and a pie in the oven? Next time you’re walking down Blair Street at night, think of how rowdy and loud it was during its boom years, where women worked day and night, all year long. How often did those women yearn for a quiet night like we have now? How many other women currently have multiple 32

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WHERE PERFECTION MEETS LOST @elevated_living_retreats elevatedlivingltd@gmail.com 34

AN ELEVATED ESCAPE a mountain retreat that offers seclusion and luxury on the outskirts of Silverton

“Whether seeking adventure or relaxation, the retreat offers unparalleled access to everything San Juan County has to offer.”

Words by, DeAnne Gallegos • Photos by, Thomas J Millonig

Elevated Living Mountain Retreat, a newly constructed cabin nestled on a ledge just over the upper Animas River, offers luxury amenities in a secluded alpine setting. Whether you are looking for a solo retreat or your next family gathering, this remote mountain property can be booked for your next San Juan Mountain getaway. This custom-built 3-bedroom, 2-bath mountain cabin was crafted from dream to design by Joel and Emily Stalo. They now share their piece of paradise just two miles east of the town of Silverton with guests. The property has access to jeep roads, hiking trails, the Animas River, and fly-fishing spots, and is on the OHV route in San Juan County, with plenty of private parking for your rigs, trailers, and toys. Tucked into the rugged beauty of Colorado’s San Juan Mountain range, Elevated Living Mountain Retreat offers a luxurious modern cabin stay just outside the historic town of Silverton. It offers the kind of mountain escape that feels worlds away from everyday life. Mornings begin with crisp alpine air, the scent of pine drifting through open windows, the sound of the rushing river below, and sunlight spilling across peaks that rise dramatically in every direction. Guests can sip their coffee from the cabin’s expansive deck, which seamlessly extends the living space into the surrounding nature. Visitors can watch deer, elk, moose, and fox wander through the meadow across the river road. Or simply sit and listen to the gentle rush of the nearby upper Ani35 | destinaton SILVERTON summer/fall 2026

mas River and take in panoramic views of some of the San Juans’ most spectacular mountain peaks. During the summer months, the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge steam train’s whistle drifts through the valley, providing a reminder of the area’s rich mining and railroad heritage. Whether seeking adventure or relaxation, the retreat offers unparalleled access to everything San Juan County has to offer. Days are easily spent exploring old mining roads and ghost towns, hiking high-country trails, fishing clear mountain waters, or spending the afternoon venturing into Silverton’s charming downtown. Visit the town’s colorful historic buildings and local shops that preserve the spirit of the old west mining heritage. As evening settles over the mountains, the pace slows. The setting sun paints the surrounding peaks in shades of alpenglow. After sunset, when complete darkness settles in over the high country, the clear mountain skies reveal a dazzling display of stars rarely seen in more populated places. You can see stars, constellations, and planets above the rugged peaks, while the twinkling lights of Silverton glow in the distance. Elevated Mountain Retreat is more than a luxury mountain cabin; it is the realization of a dream rooted in deep love for the San Juan Mountains. Built by Joel and Emily Stalo as a home away from home for their family, the retreat was built with a passion for the land it sits on and the views it showcases. Joel Stalo first fell in love with Colorado as a teenager and later discovered the rugged charm of the San Juan Mountains. When he and his wife Emily secured their dream property in the mountains, they set out to create a retreat

that would celebrate both the landscape and the region’s rich mining heritage. Working with local general contractor Brian Anderson of 9318 Construction and a team of local craftsmen, the Stalos brought that vision to life. They also collaborated with local iron artist Ken Webb of Quiet Bear Art, who owns a gallery in downtown Silverton, to create custom features throughout the home. The home’s design strikes a thoughtful balance between refined mountain elegance and the rugged character of Colorado’s mining country. Natural materials, weathered timber beams, warm wood floors, brick walls, rich leather furnishings, and soft natural textiles create an atmosphere that feels both sophisticated and deeply connected to the surrounding landscape. Oversized windows frame sweeping mountain views from nearly every room, making nature an integral part of the interior experience. Emily Stalo carefully curated and designed the retreat’s interior, weaving together vintage furnishings, historical blackand-white photographs, and reclaimed mining relics that pay tribute to the San Juan Mountains’ colorful past. Rather than feeling themed or nostalgic, the collection creates conversations and honors local history while embracing modern comfort. A palette inspired by the San Juan Mountains with warm earth tones, charcoal grays, weathered metals, and crisp alpine whites provide a timeless backdrop. The aesthetic can best be described as mountain chic with a miner’s soul: elegant yet unpretentious, rustic yet refined. It reflects the enduring character of the San Juan Mountains where luxury is defined not by excess, but by craftsmanship, authenticity, and a strong sense of place. Today, the Stalos are sharing their dream with others through Airbnb. More than a vacation rental, Elevated Mountain Retreat feels like being welcomed into a thoughtfully crafted and meticulously designed home. A home built with a passion for the land, respect for local history, and a desire to help others experience the magic of the San Juans. Whether seeking adventure or simply a quiet retreat, this cabin in the San Juans offers an authentic Colorado experience, one defined by breathtaking landscapes, small-town hospitality, and the restorative peace of the mountain go to @elevated_living_retreats on Instagram or Airbnb.com/l/vLDN2MIH to book your next “peace of mine”.

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Ink, Mountains, & History

The Story of the Silverton Standard Newspaper Founder Harry Smith Words by DeAnne Gallegos / Photos: Provided by the Haupert Family & DeAnne Gallegos

The Silverton Standard & the Miner Newspaper, as it is known today, has a long, rich history in San Juan County. According to the San Juan County Historical Society, “The Silverton Standard & the Miner newspaper has been designated a National Historic Site in Journalism by the Society of Professional Journalists. It is the only newspaper in Colorado with such a designation. The Standard & the Miner, founded in 1875, is the oldest continuously operated newspaper and the oldest business of any kind on the Western Slope of Colorado.” The Silverton Standard & the Miner traces its lineage to The La Plata Miner, founded on July 10, 1875, by newspaper pioneer John R. Curry. Curry famously hauled an old printing press over Stony Pass by mule pack train to begin publishing in the remote mining camp. Through the decades, the publication changed names several times, appearing as the San Juan Herald, Animas Forks Pioneer, Red Mountain City Pilot, The Silverton Democrat, The San Juan, and San Juan Democrat – before evolving into the newspaper readers know today. On April 12, 1888, Harry Smith became the managing editor of the San Juan Democrat. Just over a year later, on November 2nd, 1889, he joined forces with Charles Snowden to found the Silverton Standard, a publication that would become a lasting fixture of San Juan County journalism. The partnership lasted until Smith bought Snowden out in 1894. Photo top: Sunsan Haupert the great-granddaughter of the founder of the Silverton Standard & the Miner Newspaper at the 2026 newspaper office. Photo left: A young, Harry Thatcher Smith, the photo was taken in a Silverton Photography Studio

Two years later, in 1896, he sold the Silverton Standard to the Klinger brothers and eventually left Silverton for the Front Range, though he retained a couple of mining claims in San Juan County. Later in life, Smith did settle in San Fransico, where he helped his son Edward Smith build a publishing company in California following Edward’s service in the Navy. In the late 1980s, June Smith, daughter of Edward Smith and granddaughter of former Silverton Standard proprietor Harry Smith, began researching her family’s genealogy. What started with a discovery that her grandfather was the proprietor of the newspaper soon grew into a deeper exploration of the Smith family’s roots in San Juan County. Her grandparents met and married in Silverton. At age 16, Nora Marchand Smith married Harry Thatcher Smith, who was 30. Nora’s family had immigrated from Canada and settled in Silverton when she was only 12 years old. While Nora’s husband Harry Smith worked in publishing, she worked in a stationery store in Silverton. June’s father, Edward Smith, was born in Silverton. The couple also had a daughter, Mary, who tragically died from scarlet fever at a young age. Following the loss of their daughter, Harry Smith and Nora divorced. Nora moved to Telluride, where her stepmother and father started the Victoria House Hotel. For a time, she traveled back and forth from Telluride to Silverton via Ophir Pass with her young son Edward before moving there. Later she settled in Fallon, Nevada, where she opened a hat shop. As part of her genealogical research, June began corresponding with Allan Nossaman of the San Juan County Historical Society in 1986 and soon connected with local historian Freda Peterson. June visited Silverton in September of 1987, the only time she met Freda and Allan in person. She and Freda, however, developed a lasting friendship and were pen pals for years. Their correspondence continued until June’s death in 2001, and the family still preserves stacks of hand-typed letters documenting their friendship and shared passion for Silverton’s history. More than a century after her great-grandfather helped shape Silverton’s newspaper history, Susan Haupert of California traveled to Silverton in April 2026 to follow in her mother’s footsteps and search for pieces of her great-grandfather’s story. Bringing along reams of binders full of family history and genealogical research, including her grandfather’s Silverton story, she met the current publisher of The Silverton Standard & the Miner newspaper to continue the story her mother had begun decades earlier.

Photo top: Nora Smith, the photo was taken in a Silverton Photography Studio Photo lower: Couple Edward Smith, son of Harry Smith, and his wife Elizabeth Papera

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Susan Haupert said, “This is all family history I learned from my mother, and when she retired, she started doing research on our family. She started to write letters to Colorado historical societies and churches looking for vital records and any information on her grandfather (Harry Thatcher Smith) who she knew had lived in Colorado as a young man. She got a reply from Father William Doll of St. Daniel’s of Ouray, who recommended her to Freda Peterson. She got Freda’s address and wrote her a letter, and Freda wrote her back and gave her lots of research from the San Juan County Historical Society. They started corresponding back and forth and sharing historical information about the founder of the Silverton Standard Newspaper, Harry Thatcher Smith.” Today, six generations descended from Harry and Nora Smith share a connection to Silverton and the newspaper that played such an important role in their family’s story. After their first visit in April 2026, Susan and her husband, Dan Haupert, returned to Silverton in May and are already planning future trips back to the San Juan Mountains. More than 150 years after its earliest beginnings, the Silverton Standard & the Miner remains in print today and continues to chronicle the people, events, and stories that shape Silverton and San Juan County. Each week the newspaper adds another chapter to a history that is still being written. If you would like to read a little bit of history in the making visit www.thesilvertonstandard. com and subscribe today.

“

She got Freda’s address and wrote her a letter, and Freda wrote her back and gave her lots of research from the San Juan County Historical Society. They started corresponding back and forth and sharing historical information about the founder of the Silverton Standard Newspaper, Harry Thatcher Smith.

”

Mother and daughter June Smith and Susan Haupert, granddaughter and great-granddaughter of Harry Smith, the Silverton Standard founder. Photo provided by Sunsan Haupert.

SILVERTON PUBLIC LIBRARY

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Proudly serving our community since 1906, the Silverton Public Library is a cozy hub for learning, connection, and creativity. Along with books, movies, and digital resources,

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