Jekyll Island

Owing to Georgia’s 100-mile coastline, estuary system, tidal marshes, dunes, and maritime forests, the Golden Isles is rich in wildlife, some with paws, some with scales, and many more with fins and wings.

With more than 300 species catalogued in its fall and winter counts, the Golden Isles is a birder’s dream. In winter, white pelicans and plovers cruise over the ocean, while cedar waxwings nibble on holly berries. Look for bald eagles, nesting for the season, and great horned owls, too. Spring brings robins, ruby crowned kinglets, and oystercatchers. By summer the air is rife with egrets, herons, terns, osprey, ruby-throated hummingbirds, and wrens. Come fall, shorebirds are active, swallows are passing through, and once again, bald eagles are returning to nest. They are joined by the great horned owls in December, along with ducks, such as hooded mergansers and buffleheads — just in time for the Christmas bird count.

Maritime forests and marshlands are great feeding and burrowing grounds for the variety of land animals that inhabit the Golden Isles. Native whitetail deer are a common sight, especially on the northern end of St. Simons Island, and near golf courses on Jekyll Island, where they enjoy appreciative audiences of tourists, as well as fertile grazing grounds. Darting in and out of forests and grasslands among frogs and squirrels, are marsh rabbits, bobcats, raccoons, and armadillos. More elusive is the small and playful American mink, whose tracks have been seen near their burrowing sites along the marshes of Jekyll Island.

Photos: Phillip Murdaco, Raleigh Kitchen, Southeast Adventure Outfitters

Loggerhead turtles and bottlenose dolphins are arguably the most popular stars among the entire cast of the Golden Isles’ marine life. When they’re not digging nests and laying eggs, or as hatchlings making the treacherous journey from nest to ocean, sea turtles can be seen up close and personal at Jekyll Island’s Georgia Sea Turtle Center, which rehabilitates the reptiles injured from boats and predators or sick from hypothermia and disease. Bottlenose dolphins are a common sight as they feed along the coastline in late summer, but you’ll also find them showing off for onlookers on dolphin cruises or kayakers on the area’s creeks and rivers, also the territory of river otters, manatees, and alligators. However engaging these playful hams, as they jump, dive, leap and twist, they don’t compare to the breathtaking sight of North Atlantic Right Whales migrating off the coast of St. Simons Island as they head toward calving grounds in winter, or Pilot Whales that have occasionally been sighted off Little St. Simons. And don’t forget the denizens of the dunes and shallow surf, as in ghost crabs and horseshoe crabs. As for the area’s waters, they could easily be dubbed liquid gold, given their massive variety of fish. Spanish mackerel, king mackerel, cobia, redfish, tripletail, speckled sea trout, and tarpon draw sport fishermen to the Golden Isles’ shorelines, open ocean, tidal rivers, and estuaries year-round.

Rugged outdoor enthusiasts and casual observers can take advantage of several places and ways to explore the richness of wildlife in the Golden Isles.

Whether visiting for a day or overnight, you’ll have your pick of guided or solo encounters with wild things on beaches, hiking and biking trails, and kayak tours of creeks and rivers.

Watch through observation windows as researchers and veterinarians treat sick or injured loggerheads, leatherbacks, and more at this unique facility on Jekyll Island. Join a sunrise or sunset turtle walk –or night or dawn patrol — to safeguard these endangered animals.

Go on a kayak tour, rent a canoe and cast a line in a creek or get to know alligators, snakes, butterflies, crabs, and shells at Jekyll Island’s education center dedicated to raising awareness of coastal ecology.

Built by the Georgia Department of Natural Resources, this self-guided trail in Brunswick includes high grounds with ocean views and wooden boardwalks traversing marsh habitats of wading birds. Sit a while at an observation deck or climb an observation tower for, well, a bird’s eye view of the natural beauty of Glynn County.

Thanks to the St. Simons Land Trust and various public and private supporters, the former Musgrove Plantation has been purchased to protect its 258 acres of maritime forest, wetlands, and waterfront. Currently, only portions of the preserve containing existing trails for hiking, biking, and photography are open to the public.

Pod Squad: Look for bottlenose dolphins feeding along banks of Gould’s Inlet on St. Simons Island or Clam Creek Picnic Area on Jekyll Island. Or, if you’re taking a sunrise stroll on the beach at Little St. Simons Island, you might catch sight of the sea creatures playing in the surf. For up-close experiences, consider an excursion on the water with Southeast Adventure Outfitters, St. Simons Dolphin Tours, or Jekyll Island Boat Tours. Bale Out: In 2022, coastal Georgia saw a record- breaking 3,960 sea turtle nests, 95 percent of which belong to loggerheads. One of the easiest ways to see a group of turtles (called a bale) is to visit Jekyll Island’s Georgia Sea Turtle Center, dedicated to rehabilitating injured reptiles. The Center is also committed to research and education, and hosts Turtle Walks during nesting season (May to August). Look for nests in other locations throughout the Golden Isles, particularly on the pristine beaches of Little St. Simons Island. But take care to give them wide berth so as not to disturb the fragile incubators.

All Dogs Go to Heaven: Or rather, a Heavenly® Dog Bed, available at Westin Jekyll Island’s pet-friendly rooms. A floor mat, dog bowl, and pet amenity kit add to the comforts of home. Paw Prints in the Sand: While you’re on Jekyll Island, grab a leash and take your doggo to one of its pet-friendly strands: Driftwood Beach, Great Dunes, Oceanview, and St. Andrews. On St. Simons Island, East Beach and Massengale Park welcome dogs as well. Don’t forget the frisbee! Happy Trails for Happy Tails: Fido is sure to enjoy St. Simons’ Alice Richards Botanical Trail, replete with children’s area, gazebo and — squirrel alert! — wooded paths. From there, head to Fort Frederica National Monument for a photo op among the historic ruins. Say “Cheese”! Chow Wow Wow: Outdoor activity works up an appetite. Order a bite, a beverage, and a dog bowl (unless you’ve brought your own) at Brogen’s South on St. Simons Island or Tortuga Jack’s on Jekyll Island. Be sure to request a doggy bag for You-Know-Who.

The Golden Isles is made for riding a bike. Why not make a day of it on the 20 miles of bike trails on St. Simons Island?

1Pier Here: Start your morning at Pier Village about the time fishermen cast lines from St. Simons Pier. Head north down the sidewalk that runs parallel to the St. Simons Sound.

2Marsh Mêlée: Cruise down Demere Road for a taste of colonial history: the Bloody Marsh Battle Site, where Gen. James Oglethorpe fended off Spanish troops.

3Fuel Stop: Around midday, continue north on Frederica Road; hop off near Redfern Village for a gander at some of its shops,

such as Golden Isles Olive Oil, and a sweet treat from Dulce Dough.

4Nature Fix: Start pedaling north again on Frederica Road and stop at the John Gilbert Nature Trail a mile away. Lock your rig on a bike rack and wander to the 200-year-old “John’s Oak.”

5Park Place: Farther down Frederica Road, hang a right and whinny at the occupants of Frederica Stables before admiring the fanciful Fairy Village in Frederica Park.

6History Lesson: Engage your inner historian with a stop at Christ Church and surrounding cemetery, and a little farther, the tabby ruins of Fort Frederica. 7 Après-Bike: Hoist a pint with the regulars who gather at La Plancha for madefrom-scratch margaritas. Cheers to a satisfying ride!

Turtle: Cassie Wright

Alice Richards Botanical Trail Frederica Park, 2201 Lawrence Rd. Cannon’s Point Preserve 560 Cannon’s Point Rd. Demere Park 1219 Demere Rd. Epworth Park 108 Lady Huntington Dr. Frederica Park 2201 Lawrence Rd. Gascoigne Bluff Park 1000 Arthur J. Moore Dr. Guale Preserve 110 Lawrence Rd. Harrington Community Park 325 S. Harrington Rd. John Gilbert Nature Trail 2470 Frederica Rd. Mallery Park 601 Mallery St. Massengale Park 1350 Ocean Blvd. Neptune Park 550 Beachview Dr. Postell Park 532 Beachview Dr. Southeast Georgia Health System Fitness Trail Arthur J. Moore Dr. at Gascoigne Bluff

Clam Creek Picnic Area Clam Creek Rd. N. Loop Trl. Great Dunes Park N. Beachview Dr. & Shell Rd. Oceanview Beach Park 549 N. Beachview Dr. South Dunes Picnic Area 210 S. Beachview Dr. St. Andrews Picnic Area S. Beachview Dr.

Altamaha Regional Park 1605 Altamaha Park Rd. Ballard Park 30 Nimitz Dr. Baldwin Park/Brookman 100 Calvin Way Ln. Blythe Island Regional Park 6616 Blythe Island Hwy. Earth Day Nature Trail 4 Conservation Way Ellis Point Park 430 W. Shore Dr. Howard Coffin Park 1402 Sonny Miller Way Marshes of Glynn Overlook Park 1420 Glynn Ave. Mary Ross Waterfront Park 10 F St. North Glynn Park 622 Harry Driggers Blvd. Selden Park 100 Genoa Martin Dr. Sidney Lanier Park 1 Coach Williams Way Veterans Memorial Park 502 J St.

Looking for a place to unwind in the Golden Isles is quite literally a walk in the park. On St. Simons Island, Neptune Park is perfect for relaxing on a bench, sitting on the pier people-watching, or casting a fishing line. Gascoigne Bluff also has a fishing pier, as well as a frisbee golf course and a fitness trail. Exercise on the walking track at Frederica Park and meander onto the Alice Who Was Neptune Small? Richards Botanical Trail to learn about local Neptune Small was flora and fauna. Explore heritage, history, born a slave in 1831. Small of name, giant of and nature at Harrington Community Park heart, he carried Henry or Cannon’s Point Preserve. For some al fresco dining, consider Lord Page King, fallen in war, from a Virginia battlefield home to rest. Jekyll Island’s Clam Creek Picnic Area or Neptune Park bears St. Andrews Picnic Area. Brunswick is filled his name and a bronze statue, his likeness. with green spaces, such as Mary Ross Fashioned by artist Waterfront Park, which boasts a river view, Kevin Pullen, it greets visitors in the Golden playground, and weekly farmers market on Isles Welcome Center Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. At Selden on St. Simons Island. Park, you can play basketball and tennis, go swimming, walk your dog, and view the headmaster’s cottage of the historic Selden Normal and Industrial Institute, founded on these grounds in 1903. Howard Coffin Park has a swimming pool, a dog park, and basketball and tennis courts, and North Glynn Park has playgrounds, a picnic area, and a skatepark. Enjoy fresh breezes and wildlife at Marshes of Glynn Overlook Park, or Blythe Island Regional Park. Truly a park for every preference.

From prehistoric mounds and battle sites to colonial ruins and portside landmarks, the Golden Isles is a rich repository of the past.

Workers watch the launch of a cargo ship from one of Brunswick’s shipyards, which produced 99 Liberty ships during World War II. Coastal Georgia Historical Society / Harold J. Terhune Liberty Ships Photographic Collection Read more stories about Ms. Amy Lotson Roberts’ life on St. Simons Island and the area in the volume she co-authored with Patrick Holladay, Gullah Geechee Heritage in the Golden Isles (Arcadia Publishing).

Tamara Gibson Photography

Ms. Amy Lotson Roberts is a seventh- generation Gullah Geechee born and raised on St. Simons Island. She is a direct descendant of enslaved West Africans brought to the Golden Isles on the Wanderer, the last illegal slave ship to land in Georgia. Affectionately known as the “matriarch” of St. Simons Island, Ms. Amy is deeply involved with her community, serving as executive director of the St. Simons African American Heritage Coalition. She is the recipient of the Georgia Governor’s Award for the Arts and Humanities, the NAACP Image Award, and the Golden Isles Hospitality Shared Vision Award.

Ms. Amy is a “griot,” a West African and Gullah Geechee word for a keeper of the culture, storyteller, and oral historian. “I loved the peaceful and calm nature of the island, the deep sense of family and fellowship of community,” she says of her native St. Simons. With a reflective smile, Ms. Amy will tell of men coming home from fishing and hanging their catch over the doors of their homes to keep cats from stealing the bounty. She will recall the groups of women walking to church on Sunday mornings resplendent in their white dresses, hats, and gloves.

She tells of roads, still unpaved, covered in oyster shells, of dancing around Maypoles, and smoking mullet for the dinner table. Ms. Amy continues to be captured by the verdant green growth, majestic live oak trees, swaying Spanish moss, air filled with myriad bird songs, and the enduring beauty of this little island she calls home. Nowadays, you can find Ms. Amy at the Historic Harrington School, holding court, welcoming visitors, and extolling the richness of the Gullah Geechee heritage in the Golden Isles. Stop by, sit a spell, and listen to her spellbinding stories, which she will gladly share.

Descended from enslaved West Africans, Gullah Geechee people live on the coast and barrier islands from North Carolina to Florida. Throughout the Golden Isles you’ll find cemeteries for Gullah Geechee people and their progeny: In Brunswick are Greenwood and Oak Grove and on St. Simons Island are Retreat, Gould, Village, and Union. Union Cemetery is also called “Strangers” Cemetery. To be buried in a plantation cemetery, a person had to be born on that plantation or be descended from a person born on that plantation. Union Cemetery is the burial site for people not born on a local plantation and thus deemed “strangers.”

A recent discovery on St. Simons Island is a Gullah Geechee burial site at Fort Frederica National Monument. In 1929, Robert Abbott, founder of the Chicago Defender, erected an obelisk in memory of his parents, who had been enslaved on the former plantation where Fort Frederica now stands. A hand-drawn map was discovered in the records of Christ Church that seemed to indicate a grave site near the obelisk. The staff at Fort Frederica used ground-penetrating radar around the monument and found the grave sites, which were memorialized in 2020. Today, you can visit the obelisk and the graves of Robert Abbott’s father, Thomas, his aunt, Celia, and six other individuals also laid to rest here.

OBELISK AT FORT FREDERICA

Tabby is a mixture of sand, broken oyster shells, lime, lime ash, and water. Lime is made by burning oyster shells; lime ash is what’s left over from the preparation of the lime. Some of the best places to see this ingenious construction material are Fort Frederica and Cannon’s Point Preserve on St. Simons Island.

Obelisk: Pat & Chuck Blackley / Alamy

The Wanderer was a luxury yacht turned slave ship that illegally smuggled more than 400 enslaved West Africans to Jekyll Island in 1858.

Today, the Wanderer Memory Trail follows Umwalla, a 10-year-old African boy, born in Guinea, captured as he walked alone on an errand to help his aunt plant peanuts. Bound and gagged, Umwalla had never seen a white man before and later recalled his terror when his story was chronicled in newspapers. Sold to a white plantation family, he was renamed Lucious Williams. Being so young when enslaved, he ultimately lived through emancipation and became a free man.

The wrenching choice to live free or die literally played out in May of 1803

on St. Simons Island’s Ibo Landing, where several captive West Africans, or Igbo (also “Ibo” or “Ebo”) rejected a life of enslavement by walking into the water, bound together in chains. An estimated 10 to 13 drowned.

Haunting subsequent generations of the Gullah Geechee community, the Igbos’ tragic end received official tribute to their ultimate sacrifice. Thanks to Glynn Academy’s Ethnology Club, Coastal Georgia Historical Society, and St. Simons African American Heritage Coalition, the Georgia Historical Society erected a marker on May 24, 2022, commemorating that fateful day 220 years ago. Occupying green space at Old Stables provided by St. Simons Land Trust, the marker stands as a monument to the human yearning for freedom.

Jekyll Island was once a favored retreat of America’s wealthiest families – the Jekyll Island Club was partly owned by financier J.P. Morgan, and visitors have included families with names like Rockefeller, Vanderbilt, and Pulitzer. It’s also been the setting for several films, notably The Legend of Bagger Vance, hosting stars Will Smith and Matt Damon during filming.

Celebrated historical novelist Eugenia Price was one of St. Simons’ best-known residents; others include golfers Matt Kuchar, Davis Love III, and Brandt Snedeker, as well as NFL Hall of Famer Jim Brown and Food Network personality Alton Brown.

The Cloister opened to great fanfare in 1928, with President Calvin Coolidge on hand to plant an oak sapling. Over the years, other visiting dignitaries have planted trees: Queen Juliana of the Netherlands; Presidents Gerald Ford, Jimmy Carter, George H.W. Bush, and Bill Clinton; and British Prime Ministers Margaret Thatcher and Tony Blair. Other Sea Island guests have included Gen. Dwight D. Eisenhower, as well as a coterie of world leaders attending the 2004 G8 Summit, hosted by President George W. Bush, who selected the island for its impeccable service, security, and privacy.

Ditch the dusty tomes and learn local history on a bike — “perfect,” says Tyler Vaughn, owner of Brunswick Old Town Tours, for covering Brunswick’s compact downtown and Historic Old Town in 90 minutes. Ride past its squares named for city founders; wave to front-porch denizens as you admire the architecture of their stately homes; cruise through the business district, rife with old buildings and new establishments such as the final stop, Silver Bluff Brewing Company, where you’ll enjoy the sweet taste of time in a bottle.