Fresheye Magazine. April edition 2017.

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Art l Tailoring l Luxury l Dining l Product l

Magazine

Art I Tailoring I Exclusive edition Issue 16. April 2017 Photography Lifestyle Culture

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Contents fresh eye

l Fashion Matters

Clothing therapy. l Finding Rory

Humour and tailoring. l Supersize Art

Morgan’s pop art. l Designer water

Voss H20.

l Tailoring old school

Lessons in Mark Powell. l Iconic photo

By Jonathan Bachman.

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l What is luxury?

A Fresheye vision.

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l Lowden

Irish guitar craft.

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l Duck & Waffle

Sister act in St James.

Cover photography: Dennis Sterne Portrait shot with Canon 5D Mk 1.

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Fashion

A

s people, we give a lot away about ourselves by the way we dress.

Research has proved that there is connection between the way a person dresses and their general behaviour.

Generally, it seems that when a person is feeling down or depressed they tend to opt to introduce some colour to their choice of clothes which in turn will lift their mood. In the same way, it has been proven that a happy person will also choose their favourite item of clothing to wear, however an unhappy person would more likely opt for simple unfussy styles such as jeans and simple tops which do not attract attention.

Happy mood clothes can usually be identified easily as they are constructed from colourful and lovely fabrics. These clothes produce a good aura when a person wears them as opposed to wearing an outfit that has been commented negatively or has been associated with a sad or unpleasant occasion.

Therefore, if a person wants to start and live each day in a positive way they should aim to create a wardrobe with a “Happy� selection of clothes which they can alternate to enhance their mood each day of the week. These items

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Sophie says.....

matters

Clothing psychology

by Sophie Fitzjohn.

should take into consideration their size and body shape and should make the wearer feel good and positive which in turn will be the signal they give out to others. This doesn’t have to be just clothing, a signature piece such as a lovely necklace or a statement handbag can also have the desired effect. These feelgood items should if budget allows include a “luxury” feel for example cashmere silk or wool.

So, it is possible to wake up each day and view it in a positive way simply by investing time and effort in choosing a wardrobe of clothes that reflect happiness and confidence and banishing any item of clothing that harbours negativity to the Charity Shop.

I like my money right where I can see it: hanging in my closet.

Carrie from Sex and the City.

The golden age of retail therapy Luxury experience Forget cramped fitting rooms - in 1945, Neiman Marcus’s favoured customers had the latest looks modelled for customers lounging in armchairs.and then tailored to fit.

The clothes would be then tailored to fit.

Above: Victoria Beckham store interior space.

Left: Neiman Marcus store in 1945 reveals how Texas oil wives spent their money.

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Portrait

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Finding Rory A brief encounter at the tailor’s by Dennis Sterne.

M

eeting Rory Bremner is like meeting a celebrity and expecting them to be more reserved than their public persona, then experiencing the complete opposite. Finding Rory at my local tailor’s was indeed a quirky, laugh it up occasion that made for an intriguing reflection on comedy and politics. A vivid interaction between light and shade that certainly sharpened the senses.

What drives a person to be an impersonator/comedian? Perhaps it’s a predetermined destiny. Maybe its an inbuilt instinct to contradict the seriousness of life.

Indeed it could be an innate funny bone that just has to be stimulated.

It was when (without warning) Donald Trump possessed Rory that the uncontrollable laughter ensued. The best comedians have the ability to break the ice in any cool situation.

Alexandra Wood - tailor shop and Savile Row heritage, could well be seen as a cool environment - quite the contrary. So, needless to say that Rory had a head start in making me laugh so much. They say clothes maketh the man. Well, if that’s true then Roy’s scheduled fitting at Alexandra Wood put him in a mischievous mood. I commented that the

rise of Donald Trump must have been like staring at a cake before eating it. Hence Rory immediately expressed his concerns about Mr Trump. Clearly not a man to put a veneer on his political views. It appears everyone is watching that ‘Trump space’ with close scrutiny.

Frivolity Rory proceeds to show me his ingenious space saving suit carrying case while Alexandra and I marvel at its Bond like ability to shrink his luggage. I notice he’s wearing a beautiful watch which he explains was a gift to himself and this is when I’m reminded that there’s an inexplicable joining of men and gadgetry. Men who like their cars tend to have affection for watches and sometimes there’s a lead through from watches to aviation.

Sartorial But I digress, back to the intriguing mix between comedy, politics and tailoring. A mixture once fully baked suggests that to be funny, well dressed and informed goes some way toward commanding an agreeable attention. Mr Bremner’s fitter of choice is Alexandra Wood Bespoke Tailors. www.alexandrawoodbespoke.co.uk

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Eureka!

Eureka is a colour and it’s yellow by Dennis Sterne.

I

get a text message from the pop artist Morgan Howell. It says ‘Just framing something - call you in 1/2 hour’.

I’m eagerly anticipating our phone interview where I ask Morgan ten seemingly probing questions about him and his art. I’m really excited to get into it because the artist and I have crossed paths many times. He’s a character who leaves you with a sense that all is good with passion, beer and an enlightening chats about all things culturally stimulating.

The moment 2008 was a good year for an idea. Morgan tells me that he’d completed an art work of an ‘Eagle’ annual. Whilst staring at it adjacent to his large yellow Zanuzzi fridge, the eureka moment happened upon him. As every artist knows when ‘the moment’ happens, you are extremely obliged to respond. More to the point your art dna responds for you. The next thing you find, you are feverishly painting or creating in direct response to the moment. To ignore the moment is to ignore art - which an artist simply can not do.

Morgan had a vision in the form of oversized 7 inch single vinyl records. The replication of iconic nostalgic memorabilia came to him rather like the moment when Warhol was entranced by the idea of brand repetition. The notion that ‘brand building’ employs an awareness that strong graphic imagery evokes an emotional response has since been recognised. An intrigue such that art educates us. Morgan refers to Andy Warhol and Roy Lichenstein - two latter day artists that in his opinion are the pioneers of such a cognitive art language.

Background Morgan attended Ware Art College and graduated in 1984. While it’s amusing to equate being good at art with being ‘absolutely shit at everything else’, Morgan is a genuinely naturally gifted technician with pencil and brush in hand. His skill and advertising agency background certainly pathed a smoother visionary road toward what he’s currently realizing.

This realization adorns the walls of many art lovers/lovers of music and nostalgia. With

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Art

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Art Exclusive...

The power of social media is such that the BBC found Super Size Art on Twitter and the rest is history.

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over a hundred pieces made to date and a growing international audience, ‘Super Size Art’ really did hit the mark at a time when vinyl made a come back. It appears that the analogue phenomenon just can’t be ignored no matter how fast forward technology advances.

Present.

Morgan Howell’s Supersize Art can be seen at the Snap Galleries. www.supersizeart.com

Q&A

1) What does a eureka moment look like.

It looks yellow. I was gazing at an ‘Eagle’ annual art work I completed next to my large Zanuzzi yellow fridge and my eureka moment appeared.

2) How young is Super Size Art? Since 2008.

3) Which art college did you attend?

Ware Art College. Graduated in 1984 4) Favourite pop artist?

Mmmm....

OK you’re allowed two.

Andy Warhol and Roy Lichenstein. Those guys are the untouchables.

a client is like having a Desert Island Disc moment. It’s very engaging.

7) What’s your advice to graduates?

Don’t panic, the right answer will appear.

8) Who’s your favourite music artist?

Mmmm....

Oh, go on then, two more.

David Bowie and Paul McCartney.

McCartney is the original lyricist.

9) Who was your most interesting meet through Supersize Art? The Rolling Stones in 2012 at The Dorchester.

Wow! 10) What would you like your legacy to be?

Well I’ve always thought how narsisistic it is to want people to own your art. But, that said - to have my art on people’s walls knowing that they bought the work because they like it.

Well Morgan, I asked that question because in a round about way, I wanted you to see that you’ve achieved that legacy.

Well....

It looks like I have.

5) Does social media work?

The BBC found me through Twitter. As a result of that my work is exhibited at the BBC Lounge? Let’s say that the art sales increased.

6) How do you keep motivated?

It’s organic. I’m interested in people. Meeting

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A selection of Morgan’s paintings and prints exhibited at: Richard Goodwall Gallery 59 Thomas St Manchester, England M4 1NA UK and Snap Galleries 8 Piccadilly Arcade, London, SW1Y 6NH, England (Mon-Sat)

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‘I’m interested in people. That’s why the work is so engaging.

Meeting people and talking about the art is like a Desert Island Disc moment’,

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Top left clockwise: The Who - My Generation.

David Bowie - Rebel Rebel. T-Rex - 20th Century Boy. Madness - Baggy Trousers. The Beatles - Yesterday.

Left: The Clash - (White Man) In Hammersmith Palais.

Right: The Specials Ghost Town.

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‘When it comes to your art, I think it’s important to be true to you.’ www.supersizeart.com Instagram/Twitter @Supersizeart

Right: Morgan Howell.

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Water

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How a basic commodity became gentrified.

THE STORY...

It is an extraordinary realisation that water would become something that could be bought over the counter. Now the designer is employed to be a visionary for it’s branding.

Amazing but true.

appeal. Tailored for different consumption occasions, VOSS is available in Still and Sparkling high grade PET and glass.

The unique bottle was the brainchild of Neil Kraft, former creative director for Calvin Klein.

VOSS Water is the vision and creation of two boyhood friends growing up in Oslo, Norway; Ole Christian Sandberg and Christopher Harlem.

Though Norway is a small country, its pristine environment produces some of the best spring and artesian water sources on Earth, and most Norwegians see it as a national benefit to live off this pure tasting drinking water. Ole and Christopher knew instinctively that bottling pure Norwegian artesian water would be a big hit with discerning consumers around the world.

Ole and Christopher matched the purity of Norwegian water with a breakthrough, iconic bottle design, and VOSS was born.

The success of VOSS comes from a clear vision of quality and design, and this vision has become a global reality.

VOSS is now celebrated in over 50 countries in a variety of sizes with unique and universal

Purity of water is defined in part by the mineral level found in specific bottled waters and is referred to as Total Dissolved Solids (TDS).

TDS levels in VOSS are extremely low in comparison to other leading bottled waters.

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Mr Sartorial

Tailoring and the Original Englishman by Dennis Sterne.

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ody is destination Mark Powell day. My inward journey to London is building with growing anticipation. I’m meeting a tailor who I haven’t spoken to before, despite attending a fashion show and pr party in his honour. May I name drop two other party goers? Paul Weller and Martin Freeman - there, done. This is my second interview. Having been on the design side of publishing for so long, I’m now aware of what it is to become a roaming journalist .

I’m imagining how I’m to ask my questions.

How to craft a sense of seduction to get the best from this interview and thereto tease out the most revealing answers. A take on the legendary Parkinson if you will. Perhaps I dream too deeply.

Nonetheless, I am acutely aware that I’m soon to embark on a meeting that genuinely excites me because I love British tailoring and I’m about to meet one of it’s respected, charasmatic and talented players with a longevity that echoes his standing.

I arrive at Mark Powell’s boutique on Marshall St. Of course I know exactly where

it is off Carnaby Street. I’m grinning as I open the door, I engage quite a march - it’s a stretch to reach his desk from entrance to the rear end of this ornate house of sartorial treasure. He greets me with a smile ‘Hello Dennis’.

‘Mr Mark, it’s great to meet you’ I say.

He gestures to his laptop with a comment about embracing modernity and we talk about modern trends on marketing for a bit.

On meeting Mark I’m keen to make for an eduction about how tailoring embedded itself in a town I grow up in, love and have many fond memories of growing up. I touch on the influx of Cypriot tailoring and Jamaican sartorial style while Mark highlights how much black culture is very much part of his understanding and how he gravitates towards it. He identifies immigration as having a positive role for creativity. It’s revealed that his social leanings were very much around other style conscious Londoners. His awareness of style started at the tender as age of twelve.

I’m amazed that a boy so young could have found himself in tailor shops. Mark talks of his father being in the textile trade and his mother working in a theatre. His story draws u

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Tailoring Photography by Dennis Sterne

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‘The secret to my longevity is probably beacuse I’ve done things my way’.

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a template for which you can see how this man of tailoring was born in a world of cloth cutting and stitching.

Intriguingly Mark remarks on how his intoduction to Savile Row was in fact at a hairdressers. Not so much coming through the back door but a side entrance.

Q&A

1) Describe your personal style?

Nostalgia with a little flourish. I know how to put things together.

2) How young is Mark Powell?

Powell & Co started in 1985.

3) How did you learn your trade?

Washington Tremlett from 1979.

4) Who is your favourite tailor?

Edward Sexton, Anthony Sinclaire.

5) Do you like social media?

Yes I do, albeit being a late starter. I got into Facebook in 2010. I simply need to use it for business now.

6) How do you keep motivated?

You have your ups and downs. I suppose I hope for further opportunities. I’d love to do more collaborations. I collaborated with M&S once. I look for the others to give us a call.

7) What is your advice to graduates?

Stick to your guns.

8) Who is your favourite music artist?

That would be James Brown. I actually got to meet him once. An amazing moment because I idolized him so much. Other artists I love are people like Frank Sinatra and Miles Davis.

9) Your most interesting meet through tailoring?

Micheal Ball...

I look bemused - we both laugh.

Who of course introduced me to James Brown.

10) What is your legacy wish?

I suppose it’s to be considered a pioneer like the other pioneers. There are some younger tailors who’ve gained from association. I like to think I can have an influence.

Q&A Extra

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1) Where do you go for off the peg?

I go to Uniqlo for basics. It’s about putting things together.

2) Who is the most stylish person you know?

Cant say I knew Fred Asstaire but characters like him and Cary Grant.

3) Favourite movie?

Sunset Boulevard.

4) When was the last time you cried?

Movie called ‘Notebook’.

5) If not England, where would you live?

It would have to be somewhere warmer like Italy of the Carribean.

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‘Being a bit of an ego maniac means social media works well for me.

I can sound off on it.’ Mark Powell.

2 Marshall St, Carnaby, London, W1F OSF.

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www.buckitt.co.uk

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Iconic Ieshia Evans protesting the shooting death of Alton Sterling is detained by law enforcement neat the headquaters of the Baton Rouge Police Department in Baton Rouge Louisiana, U.S. July 9, 2016 (Reuters/Jonathan Bachman) The BBC has named Ieshia Evans to its list of the 100 most inspirational and influential women of 2016. Evans shot to worldwide fame in July after a news photo went viral showing her standing down police who were wearing tactical gear at a demonstration protesting the police killings of unarmed black men Philando Castile and Alton Sterling. Her calm and peaceful defiance in the face of a scary situation resonated far and wide, making her something of a folk hero. To mark the inclusion on its exclusive list, the BBC visited Evans in New York City, where she works as a nurse and is mother to a young boy.

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- Jonathan Bachman-

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What is Luxury?

A fresheye view.

What is luxury? - you may well ask.

Some say, the best things in life are free.

Well, a simple stroll in the park can certainly by a luxurious moment when breaking away from the stress and strain of a fast paced city.

Something beautifully and pain-stakingly crafted, a noted notion of luxury. Perhaps a distinct element of exclusivity another idea.

If we collect all precepts of luxury then a confident anecdote would be to say that the senses are stimulated by the experience and contact with something luxurious. A mood enhancing and mind improving chararistic can be bestowed on the luxury experirnce or item. That being established let us enter a fresheye page turning luxury experience.

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Experience

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‘A diamond is a girl’s best friend.’

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Swiss chololate, Caviar

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Velvet eggs.

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Chanel S/S 2017 Haute Couture, Tuscan hills

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A place and time.

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Tailoring, Rolls Royce Phantom

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Suit and boot.

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Silk, Rose

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Refined nature.

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Interior, Pink fresh water pearls

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Dine and decorate.

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Cuban cigars, Vintage red wine

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Tobacco and grapes.

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Mercedes Benz aircraft interior, Moet chanpagne

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Private bubbly.

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Worlds largest super yacht, Limited edition chair by Maison

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Sail and seat.

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Italian formal garden, Rolex wristwatch

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Outdoor time.

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Penthouse, Waterfall beach

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Lofty views.

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Chimmy Choo black cap stiletto, Luxury spa

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Heel and recoup.

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Superior sound Lowden guitars reaches a milestone.

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o even the average ear, Lowden Guitars are one of the best accoustic guitars made. The company has handcrafted its 20,000th guitar, a significant milestone for the Downpatrick business. In three years since receiving a significant loan from the Growth Loan Fund, it has created 13 jobs and expanded the workshop from two to nine units.

Finance for the £50m Growth Loan Fund – which provides loans to established Northern Ireland SMEs seeking to access growth finance – has been provided by Invest Northern Ireland and private investor, Northern Ireland Local Government Officers’ Superannuation Committee (NILGOSC).

Founded by George Lowden in 1974, the firm now employs 29 highly skilled workers to produce handcrafted instruments that are in demand throughout Europe, North America, Canada, Australia and the Far East. George’s high quality instruments have been used by some of the world’s most famous artists, including Gary Lightbody, Ed Sheeran, Eric Clapton and Foy Vance.

Speaking about the 20,000th guitar, Mr

Lowden commented: “The Genesis guitar is the most unique piece we have ever created.

We have been working on this project for over a year now and not only is it stunning to look at, but the sound it produces is also incredible.

“A piece of the guitar was sent to an artist in America and he has created a phenomenal piece of artwork, inlayed in to the wood itself.

We’ve taken our time on this project because I wanted to create a truly spectacular piece to mark such a significant milestone for us.

“We’ve already sold the guitar to a local buyer and, while I can’t tell you how much it went for, we believe it is the most expensive guitar ever made in Ireland and possibly Great Britain.

Growth Mr Lowden said the company has come a long way since it received funding from the Growth Loan Fund. The loan had, he said, enabled the company to begin a five year plan in response to an order book with a huge backlog of orders. Today, the popularity of its guitars means Lowden still has a year’s worth of orders. www.lowdenguitars.com

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‘The Lowden guitar is the result of unique design, workmanship and assembly techniques along with our choice of woods.’

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Quack quack!

Duck & Waffle opens its sister restaurant.

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he team behind Duck & Waffle are opening Duck & Waffle Local in St James’s Market. The 120-cover restaurant will offer a faster and more affordable experience, where you can order your food at the counter or pop in for takeaway.

Chef Director Dan Doherty will be at the helm, serving food from 8am through till 1am, with Head of Spirit and Cocktail Development Rich Woods behind the drinks. Signature dishes like the duck and waffle and BBQ spiced pigs ears will also be available.

The original Duck and Waffle is located on the 40th floor of the Heron Tower in the City.

Overseen by chef Dan Doherty, the 24-hour restaurant offers a hedonistic menu of spicy ox cheek doughnut, foie gras creme brûlée, bbq-spiced crispy pig ears and, of course, its signature dish – a confit duck leg on a waffle with a fried egg, served with maple syrup.

Its second site, Duck & Waffle Local, will open in St James’s this spring, offering a duckcentric menu and a fast-casual concept, with the restaurant intended to be more accessible than its Heron Tower site.

“Duck & Waffle is incredibly busy and so we thought we’d like to make this restaurant more accessible, in terms of not having to wait six

weeks for a table, and also in terms of price,” said chef director Dan Doherty.

While its signature dish will also be available at this compact site, new dishes will include duck burger with crispy duck leg and a duck jam doughnut.

Mixologist Rich Woods will preside over its drinks list, bringing with him his trademark brand of quirky cocktails. But while its original site is open 24 hours, its Local concept will open everyday from 8am to 1am.

“Duck & Waffle has been a hit from the start,” said Shimon Bokovza, founder and managing partner of Duck and Waffle. “We’ve served over one million guests and almost half a million dishes since opening in July 2012. We are now harnessing the energy of the brand and bringing it to the street in a more casual atmosphere that works for those who want the same high-quality food and drink they are used to from Duck & Waffle — but want it to be quick and accessible.”

Duck and Waffle Local, based at 52 Haymarket in St. James’s Market, is due to open in May. Where: 52 Haymarket, St James’s Market, SW1Y 4RP When: May 2017 Website: www.duckandwafflelocal.com

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Chef-about-town Dan Doherty has expanded his Duck & Waffle brand by opening this all-day, 120-cover site in St James’s Market, bagging a prime corner spot on the Haymarket tourist highway.

iPhone 6s Campaign. Photographer - Aaron Patterson. Location - Denver, Colorado.