Issuu

TABLE OF CONTENTS Note from Denim Privé’s Founder

Industry Innovations

34 42 56

Fibre Fabric Washing

Articles Sustainability Report Highlights 10 26

How Fashion Reverses Its Impact The Repair Approach to Decreasing Fashion’s Impact

48 50 52

Community Climate Consumption

Podcast Highlights Fashion Innovations

36 58 60

100% Sustainable Garment University Collaborations

Note from Denim Privé’s Founder It was the summer after graduating from college that really changed my life. I was deciding between taking a different road or going down the family business route. That summer after college was 2008 and I clearly remember spending the summer in Pakistan learning everything about denim production. I fell in love with it. And I haven’t looked back since. I’m sure, as a community of denim lovers, you’ll understand. There’s something truly beautiful about leaving home and coming back to it, eager to make it a better place. The goal at Denim Privé, since its inception in 2018, is to leave it and the world in the best shape possible for my kids, and for us all.

This path hasn’t been easy, we’ve had to learn to keep the tradition of good quality denim work while updating and changing outdated practices. But I think that this is also the strength of family businesses that carry on. The future generations come in with fresh ideas and desires and the truth is, it is possible. I think encountering the drastic need for sustainable practices has only motivated me to find new and better ways of doing things. It’s this kind of rigorous application of technology and innovations with a strong foundational business that has allowed Denim Privé to thrive in the world of today.

“Encountering the drastic need for sustainable practices has only

motivated me to find new and better ways of doing things.”

But I think that this is also the strength of family businesses that carry on. The future generations come in with fresh ideas and desires and the truth is, it is possible. I think encountering the drastic need for sustainable practices has only motivated me to find new and better ways of doing things. It’s this kind of rigorous application of technology and innovations with a strong foundational business that has allowed Denim Privé to thrive in the world of today. This magazine is a beam of hope about how we can work our way forward and out of the ditch we’ve dug for ourselves in this world using the creativity, love of denim, and love of one another that we’ve always had. When the fashion industry started learning of the negative impacts it has on the earth’s resources, we became determined to measure the impact, lessen the

This magazine encapsulates our efforts as producers to take responsibility and also to celebrate, yes to celebrate, the hard work it’s taken to get here. This edition of Denim Privé’s Magazine Changemakers focuses on the topic of impact, not just of the negative kind, but of the reversing kind through three key areas: innovation, science, and fashion. It explores these topics through articles, podcasts, sustainability report highlights and more. Take a read and find out for yourself. This is us, trying to build a better tomorrow. Ever since stepping into my role as CEO and creative director at Denim Privé, it has been a constant education and reorientation around the things that really matter. Let’s take care of the world that takes care of us.

Arsal Kassim CEO & Founder

ART I C L E S A R T ICL E 1: HO W F AS HIO N R EVERSES IT S IM PA CT

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A R T ICL E 2: THE R EPAIR APPR O A CH T O DECREA SING FA S H ION ’ S IMPACT

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A RTICLE 1

HOW FASHION REVERSES ITS IMPACT “The world crumbles when we treat the planet like it’s ours for the taking. The fashion industry is learning how to give. And we have so much to give.”

The world crumbles when we treat the planet like it’s ours for the taking. The fashion industry is learning how to give. And we have so much to give. How are producers and brands moving towards low impact fashion? The clothing industry is embracing innovative practices that aim to minimise harm to our planet and even restore its balance. The idea of reversing the impact of fashion’s environmental footprint can be difficult to reconcile with continual production, but it is

possible to use the earth’s resources and replenish them in a way that won’t deplete them beyond the point of no return. The point of no return is harming the environment and compromising future generations. Producers are taking responsibility for their items during production, for the late stages of their items, for the upstream and downstream impacts of their production, and for the planet directly.

These are several environmental areas that fashion impacts and often along several points of the supply chain. Some examples are carbon emissions, energy, materials, waste, biodiversity impacts, water consumption, chemical use, and land use. In this article, we’ll explore three big developments among fashion producers that embody the collective goal of impact reversal: sustainable materials, circular fashion, and transparency practices. They are revolutionising the way fashion is produced and consumed, propelling the industry towards a more sustainable future.

Article continues on page 14.

It is possible to use the earth’s resources and replenish them in a way that won’t deplete them beyond the point of no return.

S U S T A IN AB LE M A T E R IA LS : A S HI FT TOWAR D S RES P O N S I B I L I T Y The adoption of sustainable materials is an essential aspect of reducing the fashion industry’s impact. However, for materials to be low impact or impact reversing there are two goals: reduce the usage of virgin or raw materials and if virgin materials are used then to pick them in a way that will lead to more flourishment in the area. Reducing the usage of virgin materials means the innovation of fibres, which are often sourced from waste. When virgin materials are used, the push for them to be organic and chemical-free is driven by a desire for decomposable fibres. This is usually paired with a goal for regenerative farming so that the land is maintained. From organic cotton and hemp to recycled polyester and innovative lab-grown fabrics, brands increasingly seek out materials that minimise resource consumption and environmental damage. Discover how these materials are reshaping the fashion landscape and offering exciting possibilities for creating beautiful, eco-friendly garments.

Denim Privé created a coating that cleans the air while wearing it called the Unthinkable1. Teaming up with the University of Bologna, Denim Privé created a photocatalytic denim that uses nanocomposite technology and sunlight to eliminate pollutants from the air. Another avenue into low impact materials will be showcased at the denim Kingpins show in October of 2023 in Amsterdam. Denim Privé will be showcasing undyed and natural hand dyed designs. The growth of these kinds of innovations and investment in reversing impact materials is seen in Lululemon’s investment in the textile-to-textile recycling company Samsara Eco2.

They have a patented enzymatic process that breaks down nylon and polyester polymer blends, two of Lululemon’s most utilised materials, for reuse as new fibres. Under Armour’s highlighting of microfibre shed rates is influencing their intention to create 75 percent low-shed apparel, shoes, and accessories by 20303. Stella McCartney committed to 100 percent recycled polyester by 20254. Brands are responding to the innovative technology advancements that producers and change makers are offering, researching, and sharing.

Article continues on page 18.

admin. (2022, December 13). When Fashion Meets Sustainability: Introducing the Unthinkable Denim. Denim Privé. http://www.denimprive.fr/chats-with-inspiring-denim-industry-experts-at-kingpins-amsterdam-2022-2/ ‌ 2 Roshitsh, K. (2023, May 19). Lululemon Invests in Textile-to-Textile Recycling Innovator. Sourcing Journal. https://sourcingjournal.com/sustainability/sustainability-materials/ lululemon-samsara-eco-minority-investment-textile-to-textile-recycling-nylon-435866/ ‌1

Wilson, C. (2023, May 18). Under Armour’s Microfiber Pollution Solution Earns Industry Recognition. Sourcing Journal. https://sourcingjournal.com/sustainability/sustainability-news/under-armour-microfiber-pollution-microplastic-shedding-seal-award-polyester-435414/

4 How Fashion Can Deliver on COP26 Ambitions. (n.d.). The Business of Fashion. https:// www.businessoffashion.com/articles/sustainability/the-state-of-fashion-2022-bof-mckinsey-cop26-sustainability-climate-change/ ‌

“More intentional products mean the fashion industry is reducing the resources needed per item, extending the life of each item, and ensuring the end-of-life of a product is reusable or biodegradable.”

CIRCULAR FA SHI O N : C LOSIN G THE L O O P F OR A R E G E N ER AT I V E IND USTRY

Circular fashion is revolutionising the industry by moving away from the linear model of “take-make-dispose” to a more considered approach, especially when it comes to the end-of-life for a clothing item. Circularity means designing for durability and longevity, product take-back programs, and innovative recycling techniques. It’s transforming the way garments are made, used, and repurposed, ensuring a more sustainable and efficient industry. More intentional products mean the fashion industry is reducing the resources needed per item, extending the life of each item, and ensuring the end of life of a product is reusable or biodegradable.

In a recent interview for Denim Privé’s Sustainability Changemakers podcast, Genia Mineeva, founder of Been London, spoke about how they are turning waste into fashionable bags. Her journey began from wanting to know if something could be made out of the textile waste sent to landfills. Another company, Keel Labs, developed a degradable yet durable bioknit from kelp. Kelp naturally absorbs carbon dioxide and grows without any fertiliser.

Besides end-of-life solutions there are companies that have formed to deal with extending the life of garments. This can mean companies that resell, repurpose, or repair. Sashiko Denim1 combines denim repair and art to create unique patchwork and stitching on people’s personal clothing. They do not create patches on clothing that has not been worn down. There is also a big push right now to make upcycling not just a part of capsule collections but scalable to a whole company or as part of a clothing items lifecycle.

For example, Bettter is a fashion brand trying to turn upcycling into a scalable business model. The biggest roadblock is the complexity of reconstruction which they are addressing with a series of tailoring algorithms2. The fashion industry’s understanding of closing the loop has been pushed by the desire to reverse impact and minimise impact of each garment’s lifecycle.

The Denim Repair Journey of Pey Van Der Wel from Sashikodenim. (n.d.). Www.youtube.com. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAtudEwjzXM

Kent, S. (2023, May 30). Can Julie Pelipas Make Upcycling Work at Scale? The Business of Fashion. https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/sustainability/julie-pelipas-bettter-lvmh-prize-circularity-upcycling/

TR AN S P A R E N CY: ILLU MIN ATIN G T HE I M PAC T GE NE R ATE S LE SS IM PACT

Transparency is a key driver of change in the clothing industry, empowering consumers to make informed choices and revealing the areas of success and improvement to producers. While traceability itself does not decrease impact, it is essential to know where the impact lies in order to address it and then to motivate others to support it. Furthermore, transparency draws attention to the communities that produce the clothing and to the communities and environments that are most negatively impacted by the textile industry.

Communities most directly affected by waste pollution are often left to come up with the solutions. 1For example, sustainability advocate Amma Aburam spoke about the Kantamanto market, the largest second hand market in Western Africa, and how the Ghanaian community has several powerful NGOs working to reverse the effects of so much textile surplus and waste. Such as, the Or Foundation that researches clothing waste out of the Kantamanto market and provides training and aid to the communities to stop waste colonialism.

Furthermore, Denim Privé has vertically integrated production in Pakistan and supports development of the community—from education programs for the female employees to blood donation drives and vaccinations. There are similar companies developing more and more into sustainable and impactful business models, such as the Peruvian ethical brand, Sake2. Sake works with local communities to learn their traditional styles and natural dyeing techniques. These traditional modes of production, paired with local materials, make for a transparent and locally robust business model. Spaces that have often gone overlooked or that have been limited in their participation in the fashion industry are providing a space for slow, artful, and positive impact work.

Spotify. (n.d.). Open.spotify.com. Retrieved October 2, 2023, from https://open.spotify.com/ episode/1O2FHBmEoGx3EFkR66pzNV?si=8f49e95f0d9e4eea

Nast, C. (2023, April 17). Peruvian designers offer blueprint for sustainable supply chain. Vogue Business. https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/peruvian-designers-offer-blueprint-for-sustainable-supply-chain ‌

R E S TO R ATIVE P R ACTICES : HEA LING THE PLA NE T WITH THE R ES OU R CE S OF THE FAS HION WOR L D Beyond minimising harm, the fashion industry is embracing practices that actively seek to reverse its impact. Often these practices interact with policy, such as those surrounding science-based targets and nature-based targets. While nature-based targets have yet to be rolled out across the board, the desire to measure and actively replenish biodiversity is on the horizon.

ALL TOGETHER NOW As the fashion industry continues its sustainability journey, low-impact practices are reshaping the landscape, challenging traditional norms, and driving innovation. While reversing impact may be a big goal, producers and brands are making strides to design out waste and pollution, to keep products and materials in use, and to regenerate natural systems. Transformative change to the fashion industry lies ahead and it is a collective pursuit of a fashion industry that harmonises with the planet’s well-being.

“Education and collective responsibility are the only way forward.”

A RTICLE 2

THE REPAIR APPROACH TO DECREASING FASHION’S IMPACT

Every step along the supply chain presents an opportunity for scrutiny in the fashion industry. There are many entry points into becoming more sustainable—evaluate materials, challenge processes, optimise outputs—but let’s consider after the clothing gets made. After-the-clothing-gets-made can easily become a no man’s land as clothing gets more and more removed from a brand and its producers.

In the hand of the consumer, the goto options are throwaway, donate, resell. In the sea of endless options, the consumer needs to know what their options are, when to choose which option, and what will create the least environmental impact. This creates a space for producers and consumers to work together to expand, explore, and educate on how to deal with clothing when it’s near the end of its life.

T HE OP TIO N S A F TE R TH E CL O T H IN G G E TS S O L D Resale tends to get the most attention when it comes to extending the life of a clothing item. Often this happens after the clothing has been out in the world and someone wants to get rid of it. Give it a new life. But what about the clothing that nobody seems to want because there’s a hole in it? Or what about the clothing that somebody doesn’t want to get rid of for sentimental reasons but it is, nevertheless, falling apart? When a clothing item has really seen the last of its life or sometimes before then, recycling is sometimes an option, but there’s an answer that extends the life of clothing that often gets overlooked: repair. The repair industry has been on the rise, almost in conjunction with the rise of resale and the clothing care industry, but it has some barriers to entry that have kept it from seeping into the general populations’ clothing care mindset.

T HE B A R R I ER S Repairs require a consumer’s desire to invest in the repair (both time and money), a skilled mender to complete the repair, and a way of connecting the consumer to the mender. There are three main barriers that have kept repairs at bay, all of which are costly both for the consumer and the producer. If the consumer didn’t invest that much in their clothing item to begin with, then there would be less of a desire to go forward with a repair. Alternatively, a consumer would not repair clothing if the cost were prohibitively high or if it were akin to buying an entirely new piece.

A second issue is that there’s a finite number of people with the skills necessary to make repairs. Finally, there’s difficulty around scaling the services of repair since they require very specific logistics—a unique clothing item goes from the owner to repair service and back1. This can be difficult to do when big brands try to repair their clothing across the globe or when small brands don’t have the space or the reach to provide local services to their customers.

Cernansky, R. (2022, May 5). Costly, time-consuming and a sales barrier: Why fashion hates repairs. Vogue Business. https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/costly-time-consuming-and-a-sales-barrier-why-fashion-hates-repairs ‌

I N N O VA T ION S T O TACKLE THE R E PAIR B AR RIERS There are different ways of approaching each of these barriers, but certainly the desire is there as funding for repair startups is robust and businesses push for repair and alteration services. Ultimately, the culture of clothing returns is a huge cost for businesses, so there are motivations beyond the sustainability factor for a brand to ensure consumers love their clothing when they buy. Repair services are a way to keep customers happy and returning. Apps and brands are taking on the connection barrier between consumers and menders. There’s an app that connects its users to local tailors, Sojo, and an app that provides on-demand clothing care services, Save Your Wardrobe1. While these apps are looking to connect, there is yet another approach that means the clothing mender and the clothing owner connect directly or through brands instead of apps. For example, Denim Privé is a denim producer that held a mending workshop led by repair designer Pey Van Der Wel from Sashikodenim. Sashikodenim uses a traditional Japanese mending technique called ‘sashiko’ to repair jeans.

This is all done by hand, one stitch at a time. Pey works on denim directly from consumers looking for a wearable piece of art. Elevating a favorite pair of denim to art extends its life, not just because of the repair, but also due to the care and emotional investment of the owner. In an interview with Denim Privé, Pey showcased a pair of denim that had over 40 unique repairs on it in different designs and washes2. It’s the work of small businesses like Sashikodenim, led by artisans like Pey, that aren’t looking to expand so much as educate the consumer on how to repair their clothing themselves or at least view their clothing differently. While there are people pushing to undo the barriers to a widespread repair culture, arguably the biggest barrier is the mindset of the consumer. The consumer has to think it’s worth it to repair, to go through the effort, to invest the time and money. This will be a matter of education, of infusing value into each clothing item, and of expanding available services.

Deeley, R. (2022). Why Repair Services Are a Growing Business. The Business of Fashion. https://www.businessoffashion. com/articles/sustainability/repairs-alterations-start-up-circular-fashion-sojo-the-restory-seam-tersus-save-your-wardrobe/ ‌

The Denim Repair Journey of Pey Van Der Wel from Sashikodenim. (n.d.). www.youtube.com. https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=CAtudEwjzXM ‌

REP A IR DO N’T RE PLACE The name of the game is less waste and repair is a burgeoning option in the sustainable fashion industry. The temptation after the clothing gets made is to write it off and be done with it, both from the perspective of a brand that wants to put the onus on the consumer and as a consumer that doesn’t want to navigate the options. Education and collective responsibility are the only way forward because the clothing we already have can evolve along with us.

FIBRE INNOVATIONS 34

Instead of conventional cotton Bamboo Fibre A regenerated cellulosic fibre that is softer than cotton. The texture is similar to a blend of cashmere and silk. Bamboo is the fastest growing plant in the world and a source of natural and regenerated, cellulosic textile material. Bamboo fibre is biodegradable and has antibacterial and UV protective properties. Bamboo fabric is highly breathable.

Milk Fibre Waste milk unfit for human consumption is used to produce an innovative fibre called milk fibre or casein fibre. This fibre absorbs moisture very well as it is hygroscopic in nature. Natural, antibacterial, and antifungal amino acids are present in the fibre.

Banana Fibre Bananas, specifically banana peels, can make for a very strong fibre. A highly strong fibre made from bananas. It has smaller elongation than cotton and a strong moisture absorption quality. It absorbs as well as releases moisture very quickly.

PODCAST HIGHLIGHTS

C ONVERS ATIO N S W ITH SU STA I N A B I L I T Y C H A N G EM A K E RS

SOW THE SE L I S T EN TO T H E SU STA I N AB I L I T Y C HANGE M A KE R S P O DC A S T

WING E EEDS The team at Denim Privé rounded up some of the top podcast episodes related to impact. Sustainability Changemakers in Fashion by Denim Privé is a podcast born of an enthusiasm for sustainability and a passion for the global denim community. The mission of the podcast is to create meaningful conversations around the topics of fashion, denim, and sustainability. Get to know key industry players and the work that goes into building a sustainable future together.

Episode 5: The Unifying Force of Denim with Designer Miles Johnson Miles Johnson is a denim consultant, designer, and artist. He has led the creative direction of companies like Patagonia and Levi’s. In this episode, he discusses how sustainability changed the fashion world and how it is driving away the secrecy that often exists between businesses. If someone finds a new way to be more sustainable, it is their responsibility to share it, not to lock it away in a secret safe.

Episode 12: The Technology Making Custom-Fit Jeans a Sustainable Reality with Annika Visser from Unspun The Brand Leader at Unspun, Annika Visser, explains how technology is reinventing sustainable fashion with custom-fit jeans using a phone application and a machine that 3D weaves designs into a reality. There’s no need for inventory and the jeans can be unspun.

Episode 3: The Zero Waste Take with Designer Birgitta Helmersson Denim Privé chats with designer Birgitta Helmersson who runs and designs a zero-waste fashion business. She is changing the way the world looks at clothing and discusses how any person or company can create a positive impact. Her work is not only about less waste and less clothing, but also about developing a personal style that will ultimately help with this goal.

Episode 15: Transforming Tom Tailor from Within with Juliane Nowakowski

Episode 20: Closing the Loop with Natural Dyes with Diogo Aguiar from Minority Denim

Episode 19: Growing Indigo Linen Jeans with Justine from Northern England Fibreshed

Juliane Nowakowski, Head of Sustainability & Corporate Responsibility at Tom Tailor talks about the sustainability transformation taking place at the fashion brand. The major company lacked any kind of sustainability infrastructure and she’s had the remarkable experience of spearheading the structural sustainability change from within. She touches on where to start when there’s no structure, the importance of the supply chain, and the role and need for transparency.

Diogo Aguiar is the founder of Minority Denim, a brand that went from wash and dye developer to producer. Located in the North of Portugal, they are known for producing an all-natural, chemical-free dye called Biotint. Taking what would otherwise be waste and turning it into dye, Diogo Aguiar talks about the production process, the next phase of sustainable fashion, and the importance of changing the way things are done.

Justine Aldersey-Williams founded the Northern England Fibreshed to create a more regenerative system for textile production. Learn about the Homegrown Homespun project and how Justine is growing, weaving, and, essentially, making a pair of jeans from beginning to end in a no-shortcuts kind of way.

FABRIC

Instead of conventional cotton Unthinkable Fabric An innovative Inus coating that transforms denim into an air-purifying tool by degrading and decomposing air pollutants into breathable oxygen. This carbon-negative Unthinkable fabric is the world’s first fabric of its kind. Denim Privé reinvented denim to give back to Mother Nature instead of taking from her.

Tencel Fabric A long-lasting, soft, and breathable fabric from a cellulosic fibre of natural raw material wood. It is both strong and smooth and provides a sustainable alternative to cotton. Tencel can be combined with a wide range of fibres.

INNOVATIONS

SUSTAIN REPORT HI 44

NABILITY IGHLIGHTS 45

The science behind sustainability claims is best encapsulated by a sustainability report. A sustainability report is a measure of a company’s impact and proves a useful tool to improve across different areas. It is also a means of communicating to the world where a brand stands. Denim Privé has published their second yearly sustainability report and is committed to driving progress day in and day out. Three pillars—climate, consumption, and community—embody our responsibilities.

COMMUNI T Y 202 2 S USTAIN ABIL ITY REP OR T H I G H L I G H T

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100% of our employees are located in Pakistan, with the exception of a few sales agents and designers.

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All Denim Privé employees have access to our in-house Health Centre, where experienced doctors and paramedical staff are available to treat our employees.

100% of our employees are properly trained and covered by the Occupational Health and Safety (OHS) Committee.

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Denim Privé enrols our employees at the Employee Old Age Benefit Institution (EOBI) and contributes every month.

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Denim Privé provides funding for free medical clinics and schools throughout the city of Karachi for our employees, their families, and residents.

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Benefits include free transport, social security, pension payments, and subsidised food at our cafeteria to full-time permanent Denim Privé employees.

Denim Privé enrols employees at the Sindh Employees’ Social Security Institution (SESSI) and contributes monthly to support the labour class with benefits such as medical care facilities and cash benefits for workers and their dependents.

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Denim Privé follows the local provincial “The Sindh Factories Act 2016” for work environment standards.

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3,734 employees as of December 2022.

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458 new team members were hired over the course of 2022.

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53% of total new hires were female in 2022.

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30 women enrolled in Lifelong Learning Initiative.

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CLI M ATE 202 2 S USTAIN ABIL ITY REP OR T H I G H L I G H T

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Denim Privé aims to be carbon neutral by 2030, with a target of reducing our carbon footprint (relative to production) by 50% by 2027 (compared to our 2019 baseline). Our 1,609 kW onsite Solar Farm currently powers 97% of our total electrical consumption with clean, renewable energy during peak daylight hours. In 2022, our Solar Farm produced 2,044,537 kWh. We are expanding the installation with an additional 2,490 kW of capacity, which will generate an estimated 165% of our electrical consumption with renewable electricity during peak daylight hours (providing excess generation to the grid) and 80% of our total electrical consumption by the end of 2023.

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Percent of total electrical consumption provided by solar farm during peak daylight hours in 2022: 97%.

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First LEED Platinum manufacturing facility in Pakistan.

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Committed to carbon neutrality by 2030.

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5% reduction in GHG emission per piece in 2022.

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Denim Privé’s GHG emission per piece, GHG intensity, went down from 1.435 kgCO²e/pc in 2021 to 1.369 kgCO²e/pc in 2022. In 2027, the target is 0.6665 kgCo²e/pc.

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SAC Higg Index Participant.

CONS UMPT I ON 202 2 S USTAIN ABIL ITY REP OR T H I G H L I G H T

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In 2022, the amount of water used per piece went down by 17% compared to 2019.

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The percentage of treated wastewater that was successfully discharged relative to the total wastewater produced was 94.4% in 2022, a considerable increase compared to the 2019 baseline of 86.2%.

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Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) compliant.

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83% of our cotton was sourced from Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) farmers in 2022. Our target is to increase that share to 100% by 2023.

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Screened chemistry increased to 16% in 2022. It was not tracked before 2022 due to the scope of the previous version of ZDHC. The goal is to increase to 20% by 2023.

While sustainability reporting is currently on a voluntary

basis, we view it as our basic responsibility. We have done our best to standardise how we report so that we don’t

leave anything out. Denim Privé’s report was developed per GRI Standards, aligns with SASB standards and metrics,

and links to several United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). Our goal is to track our progress, inform our decisions about where to improve next, communicate in a

clear and transparent way with the industry, and do it in

a way that can be easily compared to the industry as whole. Check out our 2022 report to see what we’ve been up to (in all the glorious details).

WASHING INNO Instead of stone

Jeanologia There are three different technologies Denim Privé uses from Jeanologia, a company that specialises in sustainable technology for the textile industry. All three technologies are used during the washing step of garment manufacturing.

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Laser: vintage looks can be achieved using laser technology reducing the need for chemical dyes.

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Ozone: used to treat garments through a zero-discharge process that also significantly reduces water consumption.

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E-Flow: a zero-discharge process that uses nanobubbles of air to apply chemicals to fabrics, dramatically and drastically reducing water consumption.

OVATIONS Eco Grit Eco Grit is an enzyme in accordance with ZDHC. It’s an innovation in textile washing in which cork granules covered with special fabric are used instead of stones in washing machines. Eco Grit gives a more consistent look to the fabrics than stones do and it can be reused (over 100 times). This means the life of the machine is extended and transportation is less intensive. CO2 emissions are reduced as Eco Grit is reusable, biodegradable, doesn’t damage the fabric, reduces transportation, and creates zero slurry. No toxins are released when Eco Grit breaks down and it doesn’t contribute to deforestation.

Blue Snow A sustainable alternative to the traditional washing process that reduces water consumption by 80%. The process involves the application of chemicals in Snow Denim through smart foam technology. The process also reduces energy consumption and increases productivity because it is done at room temperature and is three times faster than loading chemicals into the washers. It has a natural dry process and can create light to dark blue shades.

FASHION INNOVATIONS 100% Sustainable Garment by Denim Privé This garment is completely sustainable, besides the fact that it exists versus not existing. The cotton thread is biodegradable, 100% Cotton Ecru. It is only dip washed and has removable main and fly buttons. There was no dying process.

U NIVER S ITY COLLAB O R ATIO NS Denim Privé and its sister mill Kassim Denim continued sponsoring denim courses for the next generation throughout 2023. Our aim is to help young designers thrive. We provide them with fabric and resources so they can let their creativity run wild.

Kingston University London 2023 Masters Denim Project Special thanks to Kingston Fashion Masters - @kingston_ma_fashion Mohsin Sajid - @denimhistory Neil Adams - @thecasualatelier Sadia Rafique - @sadiarafique Nick Clements - @mensfilemagazine Central Saint Martins 2023 2nd Year BA Hons Denim Industry Project. Special thanks to CSM - @bafcsm Sadia Rafique - @sadiarafqiue Mohsin Sajid - @mohsinsajid_ @denimhistory Sue Barrett - @denimforum

Kingston University 2023 Designer: Yuen Xin Chan Melissa 62

Kingston University 2023 Designer: Mengxi Lyu Scullil

Kingston University 2023 Designer: Chenyu Heng

“My project, entitled ‘The Blue Fever’ is a look on the modern ‘blue gold’ rush and the race for industrial overconsumption of disposable Denim. It draws inspiration from the intertwined denim history within tailoring and its ubiquity in America’s Gold rush period. The final look is composed of a personal interpretation of the 1850s triple pleated jacket and a pair of trousers inspired by mid-eighteenth-century jeans and western chaps. This project is a deepening of my technical skills and projection into the very regulated world of the fashion industry.” - Lucas Lidy (Designer), Central Saint Martins

“Being raised near the beach has resulted in my biggest inspiration coming from the surf culture in which I was brought up. During my younger years, I was surrounded by “bums” who appeared to care about nothing but avoiding work and scoring waves. I was always anxious and hard-working so I was almost envious of their carefree outlook on life. The feeling of calmness that came from connecting with the water has always stayed with me and I try to demonstrate this in my work by creating a thoughtful sense of carelessness that has not always come naturally to me. Denim has always been a material of choice for me due to its durability and ruggedness as well as how it is a staple amongst many surfers. As denim is normally rugged in nature, I was drawn to this denim as it was extremely thin and almost silk-like while still maintaining the properties of classic denim. I felt this was a perfect fit for my design as it was based on the idea of something or somebody being washed up after nature had taken its course.” = Thomas Horn (Designer), Central Saint Martins

Editor Siren Uludag

Publishers Denim Privé

Creative Director Cigdem Koydemir

Creative Agency Your Social Recipe

Writer & Assistant Creative Director Natalia Yépez Frias

Photography Alexander Chai

Graphic Designer Michelle Barajas 68

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