Charleston Lives in the Past and Present

History and Charleston, South Carolina are inseparable. Founded in 1670, immigrants first came to escape religious oppression. Later, many became wealthy through the rice, indigo, and cotton industries. Visitors to the NDTA’s 61st Annual Forum and Exposition, September 15-19, have the opportunity to walk in their footprints—visiting historical sites and touring famous mansions and gardens. They’ll also dine in some of the nation’s finest restaurants.

The main area of Charleston, a city of nearly 100,000 people, is located on a peninsula with the Cooper River to the east and the Ashley River to the west. Nicknamed “the Holy City,” Charleston boasts more than 180 churches, with many spires and steeples highlighting its 18th-century skyline. Reminders of Charleston’s military past make great pivot points for the enthusiast.

TOURING FORT SUMTER A great way to begin a visit to Charleston is to take a boat ride to Fort Sumter, where the Civil War began. Boats depart daily from Liberty Square Visitor’s Center (Charleston Harbor Tours, 843-577- 0242, www.fortsumtertours.com) to Fort Sumter, which is located on a man-made island in Charleston Harbor. These tours also give a great overview of the harbor and city

Fort Sumter, named for a Revolutionary War hero, was built after the War of 1812 as part of a coastal chain of forts to

protect the country. The fort was a sleepy outpost until 1861, when Union Maj. Robert Anderson moved his command there. The act enraged Confederate leaders, who viewed Anderson’s occupation as an act of war.

Brig. Gen. Pierre G.T. Beauregard, who commanded Confederate forces in Charleston, had been one of Anderson’s artillery students at West Point in 1837. Beauregard did not want to fire on his old friend and former instructor.

On April 11, 1861, Beauregard demanded that Anderson surrender Sumter. Anderson refused. After an hour, Confederate guns opened fire on Sumter from Fort Johnson, Fort Moultrie, and other forts (including Cummings Battery, near Fort Wagner, famous for the futile attack by the 54th Massachusetts, which is commemorated in the movie Glory) that surrounded Fort Sumter. Although he had 60 guns, Anderson could not get most of his guns into the fight because he had too few men to man them.

The Confederates fired through the night. The next morning, a hot shot (a heated cannonball) set fire to Fort Sumter’s officer’s quarters. At 2pm, Anderson surrendered the garrison. Miraculously, no one on either side had been killed. Anderson and his men were allowed to board a ship for transport to New York.

The Confederates held Fort Sumter from 1863 to 1865. It was bombarded for months by Union ironclads, shore batteries, and withstood a failed amphibious attack. The fort was reduced to rubble.

Today, only the bottom floor of what was once a three-story fort still stands. A massive concrete structure for artillery guns, built in 1899 during the SpanishAmerican War, dominates the central section of the fort.

After the war, Maj. Anderson was brought back to Fort Sumter to raise the flag that he was ordered to take down. Another guest was invited to attend the event—President Abraham Lincoln, who declined the invitation. Lincoln was assassinated at Ford’s Theatre in Washington—on the same night as the ceremony in Charleston.

“Just think how history may have changed had Lincoln accepted the invitation to go to Charleston,” said Bill Dennis, a Fort Sumter park ranger.

Also at the flag raising ceremony was Union officer Abner Doubleday, inventor of baseball, who as a captain, served with Anderson at Fort Sumter during the bombardment. “During the bombardment, he

EATING AND DRINKING IN CHARLESTON

Charleston is one of the best-known culinary areas in the South with big-name chefs. Visitors can find restaurants in 18th century buildings with white linen and chandeliers. However, there are scores of low-cost cafes that serve local barbeque and other dishes. Reservations to the higher-end places are essential, particularly on weekends. Visitors should call ahead to find out if a restaurant serves lunch, because many do not.

39 RUE DE JEAN – This French bistro is great to grab lunch or a pre-dinner drink. It serves mussels, steaks, seafood, and a variety of sandwiches. The café is located near the Visitor’s Center and Charleston Museum. (39 John St., 843-722-8881)

FIG – Hip locals hang out here to dine on seafood and trendy vegetable and beef dishes. There is a lively bar to grab a drink while you wait for a table. There are many excellent reviews from national publications on the walls of this top eating establishment. (232 Meeting St., 843-805-5900)

STICKY FINGERS – Be prepared for generous portions of ribs, both wet and dry, at this downtown eating joint. The place is always packed. (235 Meeting St., 843-875-7969)

THE WRECK OF THE RICHARD AND CHARLENE – Named for a trawler wrecked during Hurricane Hugo, this seafood restaurant is worth the search (in Mount Pleasant). Diners can feast on fresh seafood while taking in waterfront views. Try the venerable Fisherman’s Platter that is light on the fried seafood. All tables are served boiled peanuts. The café does not take credit cards and does not serve lunch. The Food Network recently filmed a segment at the restaurant. (106 Haddrell St., 843-884-0052)

was angry when he looked through his spy glass to see people on the balconies of the Hotel Moultrie watching the shelling as if it were a show. Doubleday ordered cannons to fire two shots on Hotel Moultrie,” Dennis said. “At the flag raising ceremony, locals asked him why he fired on the hotel, and he replied, ‘I stayed there once and received poor room service.’”

PATRIOTS POINT FEATURES FAMOUS AIRCRAFT CARRIER One of World War II’s famous aircraft carriers, the USS Yorktown, is anchored permanently at Patriots Point (40 Patriots Point Road, Mount Pleasant, 843-884- 2727, www.patriotspoint.org). The Yorktown, known as “The Fighting Lady,” was commissioned on April 15, 1943, and moved to Charleston in 1975 after earning 11 battle stars for action in the Pacific. Visitors can tour the 888-foot ship to learn about the types of aircraft that flew from carriers, see the exhibits on naval aviators, and browse the decks filled with cabins, crew quarters, galleys, shops, and work areas.

Also on board the Yorktown is the Congressional Medal of Honor Museum, which honors recipients of our nation’s highest award for military valor. The exhibit includes actual medals, paintings, and memorabilia about the Medal of Honor.

Tied up along side are the USS Laffey, a destroyer that bombarded the D-Day beaches at Normandy and was hit by five Kamikazes off of Okinawa in 1945; the Coast Guard Cutter Ingham, which sunk a German U-boat and served in Vietnam; and the USS Clamagore, a World War II–era submarine.

AMERICAN MILITARY MUSEUM FEATURES ORIGINAL RELICS A small museum located in the back of the IMAX theatre in Charleston, the American Military Museum features hundreds of priceless uniforms and weapons dating from the Revolution to Operation Iraqi Freedom. Museum founder George Meagher initially purchased many of the uniforms and artifacts. “We have an 1820 Army shako on display. Only the Smithsonian and West Point have the other two known to be in existence,” he said. “We have other donations. I don’t know how much everything is worth—and I don’t want to know. The purpose of the museum is to honor those who have served, are serving, and will serve our armed forces.”

When Meagher, an Army vet who graduated from The Citadel, started the museum 12 years ago, it only had one room. “We grew to five rooms. In a year and a half, we will be moving to North Charleston to a $3 million facility,” he said.

An interesting exhibit features General George Patton, including vintage photos, the boots he wore when he was killed in a traffic accident in Germany, his tanker helmet, and other artifacts. Many of the items were donated by his grandson, who lives in Charleston. “The boots have Patton’s St. Christopher’s Medal, which is embedded in the heel,” Meagher said.

A commemorative case has the helmet and uniform worn by 1st Lt. Robert Bryce, who was killed in action on D-Day, June 6, 1944. “We had to buy his helmet at an auction. We already had his dress uniform,” Meagher said. “His widow donated his engraved Purple Heart medal after reading a story about the museum.” (American Military Museum, 360 Concord St., 843-577-7000, ammilmus@aol. com, www.americanmilitarymuseum.org)

OTHER CHARLESTON MILITARY HISTORY SITES • The Citadel – Founded in 1842, The Citadel offers a weekly military dress parade at 3:45pm during the school year (check the website for exact time and dates). The school’s small museum shows the development of the school through uniforms, equipment, and other memorabilia. An audiovisual production about General Mark Clark, World War II leader and school superintendent, shows daily in the museum. The original campus building is now an Embassy Suites Hotel in the historic district. (171 Moultrie St, 800-868-3294, www.citadel.edu)

• Fort Moultrie – One of the first victories of the American Revolution occurred here when Colonel William Moultrie’s men fought off a British invasion on June 28, 1776. This is the third fort on the site. The current fort was built in 1809 and was in use through WWII as a coastal defense battery. The Indian chief Osceola is buried here. (1214 Middle St., Sullivan’s Island, 843-883-3123, www.nps.gov) • Grayline Bus Tours – A 90-minute panoramic tour of Charleston that stops at 100 points of interest. The tour stops in the historic Battery area to view some of the pre–Civil War mansions. A two-hour tour offers all the benefits of the 90-minute tour plus a walk through of a restored historic home. Grayline also combines the 90-minute tour with a Fort Sumter tour. Call for prices and times. (843-722-4444, www.graylineofcharleston.com) • Shops at Charleston Place – Find bookstores, luggage, higher-end clothing stores, and other shops. (130 Market Street)

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON CHARLESTON The Visitor Information Center has exhibits and a helpful information center. Offers a Charleston Heritage Pass. (375 Meeting St., 800-868-8118, www.charlestoncvb.com) DTJ

Photo Charleston Area CVB

OTHER CHARLESTON SITES • Boone Hall Plantation and Garden – Located 11 miles east of Charleston, the mansion boasts a live oak allée with Spanish moss draped on the trees. Antebellum slave cabins with recent archeological excavations and interpretive signs are on the grounds. Several movies have been filmed here. At $17.50 per adult, a bit expensive, but worth the journey. (1235 Long Point Road, off of US 17 North, in Mount Pleasant, 843-884-4371, www.boonehallplantation.com) • Charleston Museum – The oldest museum in the country, founded in 1773, contains a large collection of natural history, toys, fashion, archaeology, and plantation life displays. The museum also has an excellent Civil War room with original battle flags and other memorabilia from the Union Siege of Charleston. A fullscale model of the Confederate submarine Hunley is outside of the museum. The historic Joseph Manigault House, built in 1803 in the Federal style, is next door. The museum also owns the 1772 Heyward-Washington House, which was the home of Thomas Heyward, Jr., one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence. President George Washington stayed there when he visited Charleston in 1791. (360 Meeting St., 843-722- 2996, www.charlestonmuseum.org)

SHOPPING IN CHARLESTON • King Street – This is the main shopping area in town. The Market to Calhoun stretch on King Street area has many national chains (Banana Republic, Pottery Barn, and many clothing stores), and the “lower King” area, from Broad to Market Streets, has many high-end antique stores. • Old City Market – Located on East Bay and Market Street, the Old City Market features a covered flea market. Items for sale include sweet-grass baskets, prints, clothing, and other items. (Market Street area). Kevin Dennehy has been a journalist for 21 years for daily newspapers, magazines, and trade publications. A lieutenant colonel in the Maryland Army National Guard, he has degrees in journalism, history, and law. He lives in Denver.

Recon Magazine, a military history travel publication produced bimonthly, evaluates essential military history sites, reasonably priced hotels, and great food in a given area. Recon also provides an historical snapshot— whether it is in Normandy or Fort Garland, Colorado, along with information on nonmilitary sites so those in a family or group who do not share someone’s zeal for past battles, cemeteries, and museums can enjoy other options. For more information, visit www.thereconmag.com.

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