INTERNATIONAL COLOUR GENIUS MODULE 2 First Edition
SUSTAINABLE COLOUR EXPERT Elevate your technical skill and knowledge on the continuing changes of the science sustainability behind the products, become an expert and choose the right products for today's in-salon colour challenges
INTERNATIONAL COLOUR GEMIUS 2
CONGRATULATIONS! You have successfully completed the learning of MODULE 1. You are now ready to start MODULE 2. Your learning objective is to elevate your knowledge and skill as a SUSTAINABLE COLOUR EXPERT. This module covers all the needed knowledge on the ongoing change and the science behind the products and becomes an expert on choosing the right products for today's in-salon colour challenge. BE A SUSTAINABLE COLOUR EXPERT on choosing the right product for optimal colour results. The SUSTAINABLE COLOUR EXPERT module contains four learning categories that you need to walk through one at a time.
THE CATEGORIES ARE: Skin Anatomy Hair Anatomy Melanin Behaviour Colourant Differences and their Performance.
BE A SUSTAINABLE COLOUR EXPERT! ARE YOU READY? LET GET STARTED!
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INTERNATIONAL COLOUR GENIUS
THE SKIN ANATOMY LEARNING OBJECTIVE: EXPLORE THE STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION OF THE SCALP TO UNDERSTAND THE ELEMENTS YOU, AS A COLOUR EXPERT, ARE WORKING WITH EVERY DAY.
MODULE 2 CHAPTER ONE •
About This eBook
•
Healthy Scalp, Healthy Hair
•
The Role of Skin
•
The Skin Structure
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The Skin and Pores Glands
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The Sweat Gland Function
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Should we Offer Coffee?
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Blood Pressure and Sweat Gland
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Hair Colour Application Crosscheck, Why?
CHAPTER TWO
INTERNATIONAL COLOUR GEMIUS 4
MODULE TWO - CHAPTER 1
SKIN ANATOMY
HEALTHY SCALP, HEALTHY HAIR IT IS THE FOUNDATION FOR HEALTHY, STRONG LAVISH HAIR
The scalp has its natural rhythm and conditions, and we often overlook, as we do not see it at first glance. However, the health and wellbeing of the skin at the scalp is the foundation of healthy hair and lavish growth. Therefore, it is essential to elevate your knowledge to assess and correctly identify various scalp imbalances.
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SKIN ANATOMY
THE ROLE OF SKIN THE SKIN IS THE LARGEST ORGAN OF THE HUMAN BODY. IT IS THE ELEMENT OF CONTACT WITH THE OUTSIDE WORLD AND PRIMARILY REFLECTS THE STATE OF HEALTH. The role of the skin is the ultimate multi-tasker, performing many functions that are essential to our overall wellbeing. It plays an important psychological role as the most visible indication of health. The condition of our skin affects how we feel about ourselves and how others view us. But skin's most important role is the first line of defence between the bodies and our living world. It protects us and helps to keep us healthy by:
MAINTAINING EPIDERMAL LIPIDS: These are responsible for binding in moisture and creating the skin's permeability barrier, helping to prevent bacteria and viruses from penetrating the skin's surface.
REGULATING BODY TEMPERATURE: The skin helps regulate body temperature, control moisture loss and maintain the balance of fluids .
SENSING PRESSURE AND PAIN: Act as a barrier to pain or irritation.
PROTECTING The first line of defence against cleansing or chemical formula
DID YOU KNOW The skin at the scalp is the fastest aging skin compared to any other skin on the body. It is known that the scalp ages 12 times faster than body skin and 6 times faster than facial skin
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SKIN ANATOMY
THE SKIN STRUCTURE THE FOUNDATION OF YOUR COLOUR APPLICATION Although skin types and conditions vary genetically and by ethnicity, all human skin has the same basic structure and function. The skin structure is attached to the underlying muscles by a subcutaneous fat layer known as hypodermis and consists of two main layers. FIGURE 1 shows a generalized verticle section of the skin. This diagram includes all the relevant skin structures, although some would not be found on particular parts of the body (e.g. no hair follicles would be present if the diagram showed the palms of the hands).
DID YOU KNOW?
FIGURE 1
On average, one square centimetre of skin contains: • • • • • •
Up to 200 nerve endings to record pain. Up to 25 pressure receptors for the perception of tactile stimuli, 2 sensory receptors for cold 12 sensory receptors for heat. 65-85 hair follicles 97-102 sebaceous glands
•
Up to 100 sweat glands
1 - EPIDERMIS
2 - DERMIS
HYPODERMIS HYPODERMIS
1 – EPIDERMIS
2 – DERMIS
The horny layer is the outermost layer of the epidermis, and it is composed of flat dead, scale-like cells which are constantly being rubbed off the scalp through the brushing of the hair.
The dermis is the layer of skin that lies beneath the epidermis and above the hypodermis layer. It is the thickest layer of the skin and is fibrous and elastic tissue. Thus, it provides strength and flexibility to the skin.
THE EPIDERMIS CONSIST OF: •
Outmost protective layers of the body
• •
Renew its cells every 28 days Skin pore
•
Numerous nerve-ending with sensor receptors, telling us about our surroundings (too hot, too cold or pain).
THE EPIDERMIS CONSIST OF: • • • • • •
Hair Follicles Sweat Glands Apocrine Glands Sebaceous Gland Blood Vessels Nerve
YOUR LEARNING: The epidermis is the support foundation of her colour application. Skin cell renews itself every 28 days The sensor receptor detect if the surrounding is too hot or too cold The sweet, apocrine and sebaceous glands are found in the dermis part of the skin
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SKIN ANATOMY
THE SKIN PORES & GLANDS THEIR ROLE IS TO MAINTAIN A HEALTHY SKIN FOR HEALTHY HAIR WE HAVE TWO DIFFERENT SKIN PORES AND THREE TYPES OF GLANDS. The skin's pores are tiny openings from which LIPID (sebum) and WATER (sweat) reach the skin's surface (EPIDERMIS) from their RESPECTIVE GLANDS found in the DERMIS. Both sweat and sebaceous glands work hard to produce an EPIDERMAL FLUID to maintain the skin's NATURAL PROTECTIVE BARRIER at the skin's surface, INFLUENCING THE SKIN pH. However, the epidermal fluid's ability to work as an effective barrier is impaired when its natural balance is compromised.
FIGURE 2 shows a generalized verticle section of the skin. This diagram includes three glands and two skin pores. The apocrine and sebaceous gland is only present where hair follicles are present
FIGURE 2
SEBACEOUS PORE
APOCRINE GLAND
SWEAT PORE
SWEAT GLAND SEBACEOUS GLAND
YOUR LEARNING Skin pores are small openings at the surface of the epidermis. Together the sweat and sebaceous gland produced the epidermal fluid at the surface of the scalp The epidermal fluid or natural protective barrier influences scalp and hair pH
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SCALP ANATOMY
THE SKIN PORES & GLANDS THEIR ROLE IS TO MAINTAIN A HEALTHY SKIN FOR HEALTHY HAIR THEIR FUNCTION CONTRIBUTES TO THE HEALTH AND CONDITION OF THE SKIN.
1 – SWEAT OR ECCRIME GLANDS •
Duct tube shape in the epidermis, travelling downwards into a coil in the dermis.
•
Sweat pores dilate when body temperature increases above 37o.
•
Release body pressure when rising
•
Secrete slightly salty acidic water.
2 – APOCRINE GLAND
3 – SEBACEOUS GLANDS
•
The apocrine glands are attached to the hair follicle in the dermis.
•
•
Produce viscous fatty, lipid-rich sweat.
The sebaceous glands are attached to the hair follicle in the dermis.
•
Emotional stress causes the expelling of the fatty secretion at the surface of the epidermis.
The secretion of its sebum (lipid) maintains skin hydrates and moisture.
•
The sebum (lipid) strengthen hair-shaft and increase shine for healthier hair
•
The sebum protects the skin from potentially harmful pathogens, such as bacteria and fungi.
•
•
•
Local bacteria at the surface of the epidermis break the fatty secretion into body odour or pheromones. The gland is stimulated by hormonal Fluctuation or puberty.
YOUR LEARNING The sweat gland dilates and releases pressure when body temperature increase above 37o. The sweat gland secretes slightly acidic water when the body pressure rise. Excess salted acidic water could affect hair colour performance Bacteria could breakdown the fatty secretion from the apocrine into body odour The secretion of the sebaceous gland maintain skin hydration and moisture The sebum from the sebaceous gland protects skin from harmful pathogen
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SCALP ANATOMY
BODY PRESSURE RELEASE WHAT TRIGGER PRESSURE RELEASE Excess secretion (water/hydro) from the sweat gland is released when body pressure increases. The excess secretion could propel the hair colour away from the scalp and hair at its application area, affecting the hair colour performance and target result.
WHAT TRIGGER PRESSURE RELEASE
BLOOD PRESSURE
HORMONAL FLUCTUATION
CAFFEINE
MEDICATION
If blood pressure increases, it could propel the colour formula away from the scalp and hair.
Client in puberty or menopause could increase body heat and accelerate product swelling or performance
Offering beverages with caffeine could increase blood pressure and release excess water from the sweat gland. The excess water could affect colour performance and target result
Studies have shown that certain drug treatments and medications can alter your natural hair's colour, texture, and thickness. Which could influence your colour formula and processing time
SOLUTION Crosscheck your colour application after the first 10 minutes, reapply the colour formula where needed and start your processing time.
Pay special attention when foiling hair. Extra body heat release could increase product swelling, process faster and affect product performance
Offer client cold water or juice instead of hot caffeine beverages. It will ensure a much more predictable colour result.
Check once and a while if clients have had any medical changes. It is also recommended to assess the hair and scalp twice a year and see if any changes occurred with natural hair colour, diameter and texture. The initial colour formula may require some adjustment
YOUR LEARNING. Caffein, blood pressure, hormonal Fluctuation and medication could affect hair colour performance and target result. Offer client cold beverages during hair colour application and processing time. All the above learning confirms that crosschecking hair colour after the application is vital to ensure the colour is applied correctly for an optimal colour result.
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MODULE TWO - CHAPTER 2
SCALP ANATOMY
THE SECRET OF A HEALTHY SCALP A HEALTHY FUNCTION OF THE SKIN'S NATURAL PROTECTIVE BARRIER CONTRIBUTES TO A POSITIVE COLOUR EXPERIENCE FOR THE CLIENT. Clear and healthy skin, especially on the scalp, is what we all want for our clients. It starts with more than Shampoo and conditioner targeted towards a scalp and hair type. There are many factors to consider, but one important and often overlooked factor is the health state of the NATURAL PROTECTIVE BARRIER (Epidermal Fluid).
The NATURAL PROTECTIVE BARRIER, also known as HYDROLIPIDIC FILM, is an emulsion of HYDRO (water) and LIPIDS (oil) found at the skin's surface acts as a barrier against fungus and bacteria. In addition, the HYDROLIPIDIC FILM at the scalp also contributes to protecting the hair from environmental stressors. When the HYDROLIPIDIC FILM is in balance at the scalp, the result is healthy skin with strong and shiny hair. The WATER PART of the HYDROLIPID FILM, ACID MANTLE, determines the pH of skin and hair.
WHAT IS THE HYDROLIPIDIC FILM?
THE SKIN pH, AND WHY IS IT IMPORTANT?
The HYDROLIPIDIC FILM comprises AMINO ACIDS produced by the SWEAT GLAND (HYDRO) mixed with the oil (LIPID) from the SEBACEOUS GLANDS, creating the NATURAL PROTECTIVE BARRIER.
The WATER part of the HYDROLIPIDIC FILM, ACID MANTLE, determines the SKIN and HAIR pH of 4.5 – 5.5. When the HYDROLIPIDIC FILM is DISRUPTED, The skin and hair pH RISE TOWARD ALKALINITY. Therefore, increases the possibility of fungi and bacteria growth with dry, sensitive skin.
YOUR LEARNING The HYDROLIPIDIC FILM is the scalp natural acidic protective barrier The HYDROLIPIDIC FILM comprises amino-acid (hydro) and oil (lipid). The WATER (HYDRO) part of the HYDROLIPIDIC FILM, ACID MANTLE, determines skin and hair pH (4.5 – 5.5). The HYDROLIPIDIC FILM provides a protective barrier during the hair colouring process An unbalance scalp increase its pH toward alkaline. Therefore, affecting scalp hydration, hair quality and growth.
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SCALP ANATOMY
WHAT IS pH? pH VALUE MEASURES HOW ACIDIC OR ALKALINE A WATER BASE SUBSTANCE IS WHAT IS VALUE pH?
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10 11 12 13 14
Alkaline pH
Acid Ph
The POTENTIAL OF HYDROGEN, or pH, indicates how ACID or ALKALINE a solution is in chemistry. The pH value scale is from 0.0 to 14.0. For example, AQUEOUS (WATER) solutions at 25 o C with a pH less than 7.0 are ACIDIC, while those with a pH greater than 7.0 are BASIC or ALKALINE. Therefore, 7,0 being in the MIDDLE IS NEUTRAL.
Skin & Hair 4.5 – 5.5
PROFESSIONAL NOTE: You just learned that WATER (aqueous) in products would produce a pH indicator. Therefore, if there is NO WATER (aqueous) in the products, e.g. bleach (powder) or oil, both products WOULD NOT HAVE A PH VALUE.
DID YOU KNOW o
As the temperature rises above 25 , molecular vibrations increase, resulting in water's ability to ionize and form more hydrogen ions. As a result, the pH drop. Every solution changes its pH value through temperature changes. A difference in pH measurements at different temperatures is NOT an error! The new pH level tells about the actual pH for that solution at that specific temperature.
EXAMPLE o
ACID NEUTRAL ALKALINE*
0 C 2.01 7.47 13.80
25 o C 2.00 7.00 12.83
50 o C 2.00 6.63 12.15
*From the table, we can conclude that temperature is most significant for highly alkaline solutions.
PROFESSIONAL NOTE Using heat to accelerate the hair colour process could decrease product temperature. Therefore, influencing its pH performance
MAINTAINING THE CORRECT pH VALUE OF THE SCALP You just learned that the ACID MANTLE (the water base of the HYDROLIPIDIC FILM) determines the pH value of the scalp and hair. When pH is balanced, 4.5 – 5.5, it plays a significant factor in the scalp's health and wellbeing. The only issue? For most products we work with, such as hair COLOUR, BLEACH, and DISRUPT, the delicate pH balance of skin and hair increases its pH toward alkalinity. When scalp and hair are in an alkaline state, it is essential to acidify them and rebalance their pH close to their natural state to maintain their health and wellbeing of the scalp. Therefore, the importance of POST COLOUR CARE treatment after an alkaline service. .YOUR LEARNING The product pH we work with is based on 25oC pH above 7 is alkaline, and pH below 7 is acid. Therefore, 7 is neutral After an alkaline service, it is essential to post colour care the scalp and hair to rebalance its pH Temperature increase or decrease could influence pH value and performance
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SCALP ANATOMY
HYDROLIPIDIC FILM AND pH THE HYDROLIPIDIC FILM IS YOUR FIRST LINE OF DEFENCE AGAINST EVERYTHING THAT WANTS TO HARM YOUR SKIN AND HAIR. Now that you have learned a pH balanced scalp ensures the presence of the ACID MANTLE within the HYDROLIPIDIC FILM. The presence of the hydrolipidic film during a hair colour application act as a proactive barrier (buffer) between the hair colourant and the skin, minimi zing skin sensitivity or irritation during its processing time. In its absence, the skin would increase its pH towards alkaline. Therefore, applying an alkaline pH hair colourant would create discomfort, irritation itchiness during the first 10-15 minutes of the colour process.
IMPORTANT NOTE It is why we ask the client not to shampoo their hair 24hrs to 48hrs before a technical service. A non -pH balanced shampoo containing Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) can strip away HYDROLIPIDIC FILM (Epidermal Fluid), increasing skin pH toward alkaline, with a dry and sensitive scalp.
DID YOU KNOW All davines Shampoo and conditioner are sulfate-free and pH balanced. Therefore, when clients shampoo and treat the hair with the recommended davines homecare product. Its usage will contribute to a healthy and balanced hydrolipidic film (acid Mantle) at the scalp maintaining the skin pH close to its natural state.
YOUR LEARNING The hydrolipidic film act as a protective buffer during colour application and the process of hair colourants The hydrolipidic film is the reason why we ask clients not to wash their hair 24hrs before a technical service The absence of the hydrolipidic film increase skin and hair pH toward alkaline
INTERNATIONAL COLOUR GEMIUS 13
SCALP ANATOMY
PRODUCTS pH REFERENCE CHART REBALANCING SKIN pH AT THE SCALP ESSENTIAL SHAMPOO
pH
SOLU MINU NOUNOU MOMO MELU DEDE VOLU LOVE SMOOTH LOVE CURL
5.4-5.8 5.0-5.5 5.2-5.4 5.4-5.8 5.2-5.4 5.4-5.8 5.4-5.8 5.2-5.4 5.3-5.8
NATURALTECH SHAMPOO CALMING WELL-BEING RENEWING NOURISHING REPLUMPING DETOX PURIFYING REBALANCING ENERGIZING HEART OF GLASS SHAMPOO SILKENING SHAMPOO
pH 5.0-6.0 5.0-6.0 5.0-6.0 5.2-5.8 5.3-5.7 5.0-5.5 5.0-6.0 5.0-6.0 5,7-6.2 pH 5.0-5.5
SUPERACTIVE pH FOR SCALP CALMING SUPERACTIVE (Oil Base – No pH) RENEWING SERUM SUPERACTIVE ROYAL JELLY SUPERACTIVE PURIFIYING GEL ENERGIZING SUPERACTIVE ENERGIZING SEASONAL SUPERACTIVE
ESSENTIAL CONDITIONER
pH
ESSENTIAL MASK TREATMENT
pH
MINU NOUNOU MOMO MELU DEDE
3.5-4.5 3.5-4.5 3.5-4.5 3.5-4.5 3.5-4.5
MINU NOUNOU
3,5-4,5 3,5-4,5
LOVE SMOOTH LOVE CURL
5.2-5.4 3.5-4.5
LOVE SMOOTH LOVE CURL
3,5-4,5 3,5-4,5
NATURALTECH CONDITIONER
pH
NATURALTECH MASK TREATMENT
pH
WELL-BEING RENEWING NOURISHING REPLUMPING
3.5-4.5 3.5-4.5 3.5-4.5 3.5-4.5
NOURISHING
3.5-4.5
HEART OF GLASS CONDITIONER RICH CONDITIONER
pH 4.0-5.0 pH
HEART OF GLASS MASK TREATMENT INTENSE TREATMENT
pH 3.8-4.5 pH
3.5-4.2 4.0-4.8 5,4 - 6,00 6.5-7.5 7.0 -7.8
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SCALP ANATOMY
IMBALANCE HYDROLIPIDIC FILM WHAT HAPPENS IF THE SKIN IS TOO ACID OR ALKALINE? You just learned that the natural skin barrier is slightly acidic with a pH of 4,5 – 5,5 for a reason: to keep moisture in and bacteria out. If the natural skin barrier is unbalanced, it could raise the skin's pH toward alkaline or decrease its pH toward low acid. NATURALTECH is a range of products and treatments specifically formulated to prevent and resolve the most common skin and hair conditions, helping them regain the balance to restore their natural healthy state. T
WHAT HAPPEN IF THE SKIN AT THE SCALP IS TOO ACIDIC • • • •
TOO ALKALINE
Oily scalp Redness or sore Inflammation and eczema Skin pH lower than its natural state
• • • •
Sensitivity, irritating, dry and itchy scalp Lack of the natural hydrolipidic film Lack of moisture or hydration. Skin pH higher than its natural state
THE SOLUTION •
NATURALTECH Rebalancing product against excessive sebum production.
•
NATURALTECH Calming sensitive or sensitized scalps, prone to itching and redness.
•
NATURALTECH Purifying for Soothing antiseptic products to treat and prevent oily and oily dandruff.
•
•
NATURALTECH Elevating Clay super cleanser mixed with Naturaltech shampoos for a deep scalp cleansing that can eliminate impurities and absorb excess oils, providing freshness and leaving the hair and scalp perfectly clean.
NATURALTECH Nourishing Royal Jelly, rich in vitamins and essential amino acids with nourishing moisturizing and soothing properties, provides enormous benefits to the scalp
•
NATURALTECH Elevating Scalp Recovery Leave-on scalp treatment with Macrobiotic Booster to rebalance the scalp's natural ecosystem. With an immediate and long-term moisturizing and soothing
•
NATURALTECH Detox is ideal for an in-depth cleansing impurity or sebum buildup at the scalp.
YOUR LEARNING Umbalance skin pH could increase its pH toward alkaline or decrease it to low acid Excess sebum, oily scalp pH is too acid Lack of moisture, Dry, itchy and sensitive scalp pH is too alkaline NATURALTECH offer solution to different scalp umbalance
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SCALP ANATOMY
REVISION QUESTIONS We invite you to revise your learning by answering the questions below. All answers were in your learning.
Q01:
Name the two main layers of the skin?
Q02:
Which gland produces lipid substances ?
Q03:
Which gland secrete slightly acidic salted water?
Q04:
When bacteria break down fatty secretion at the surface of the epidermis, it creates?
Q05:
Natural secretion of sebum maintain the skins?
Q06:
Which of the three glands create a lipid that protects the skin against bacteria and fungi?
Q07:
Body pressure release would increase the secretion of the?
Q08:
What are the four leading causes that trigger pressure release?
Q09:
Which gland could secrete excess hydro during the first 10 minutes of the hair colour process?
Q10:
Pressure release during a hair colour process could affect ?
Q11:
What we should not offer the client before or during a hair colour service?
Q12:
The natural protective barrier, also known as the?
Q13:
The natural skin barrier determine the skin and hair?
Q14:
The skin and hair pH is?
Q15:
Scalp with access sebum is too?
Q15:
In the absence of the hydrolipidic film, the scalp pH would be?
Q16:
All davines Shampoo and conditioner are?
INTERNATIONAL COLOUR GEMIUS 16
MY GENIUS NOTE
INTERNATIONAL COLOUR GEMIUS 17
MODULE TWO - CHAPTER 2.1
SCALP CARE EXPERT
NATURALTECH NATURALTECH PRODUCTS ARE DESIGNED TO OFFER SPECIFIC TREATMENTS IN THE SALON AND AT HOME Naturaltech is created through a harmonious combination of three elements: NATURE, MAN and TECHNOLOGY. In the Davines laboratories, we combine the best raw materials with cutting-edge research to provide maximum scientific innovation whilst enhancing the elements given to us by nature. The name Naturaltech was chosen as an expression of the Importance that Davines gives to nature and the environment, aware that technology wisely applied to nature enables us to obtain cutting-edge formulations with the utmost respect for the environment.
EFFICACY IN PREVENTION AND MANAGEMENT OF SCALP AND HAIR CONDITION Naturaltech products are designed to offer specific treatments in the salon and at home, able to support the improvement of the main scalp and hair conditions. All products are highly versatile, functioning independently or in synergy with each other.
THE IMPORTANCE OF DIAGNOSIS, TREATMENT AND MASSAGE Naturaltech has always been our dedication to scientific diligence and professional knowledge. The Naturaltech products are designed to treat specific hair and scalp conditions, with their highest performance-proven during treatment and massage. This is how Naturaltech becomes the product line par excellence, able to enhance the professionalism of hairdressers who guide the customer to discover products, services, and treatments designed to meet their individual needs through their training and knowledge.
INTERNATIONAL COLOUR GEMIUS 18
SCALP CARE EXPERT
HOW TO IDENTIFY SCALP IMBALANCE CLIENTS WHO HAVE A SCALP IMBALANCE ARE LIKELY TO EXPERIENCE DIFFERENT SYMPTOMS WHAT IS SCALP IMBALANCE A scalp imbalance can be caused by several things, like environment, product buildup, hormonal Fluctuation or the natural ageing process. Continuing building your knowledge on the scalp. Let's explore common scalp imbalances in further detail on assessing and identifying the cause. Remember, the scalp's quality and health state determine the client's hair colour experience. Before diagnosing any scalp imbalance, remember that assessing the client's scalp condition during a consultation is an essential step before any in-salon technical services. Understanding the client's real need during the consultation is essential, keeping their motivation to visit the salon. The client's idea of what they need does not always coincide with their actual needs. Therefore, a comprehensive consultation is essential in the diagnosis process.
CLIENT SALON EXPERIENCE The NATURALTECH world offers a unique in-salon experience based on tailor-made services and rituals. All of the NATURALTECH treatments are related to your client's scalp and hair needs and is designed with a problem-solving approach. From the first moment to the end of the in-salon experience, the client journey needs to follow a logical and professional sequence that supports a fluid and natural manner that ensures a positive in-salon experience. THE TIME SPENT IN THE SALON CONSIST OF FIVE ESSENTIAL VITAL PHASES: WELCOME CONSULTATION ANALYSIS & DIAGNOSIS PROFESSIONAL SERVICES HOME CARE ROUTINE GOODBYE MOMENT
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SCALP CARE EXPERT
A POSITIVE START THE WELCOME TO SALON Due to previous client experience, up to 68% of clients feel anxious when visiting a salon for the first time. Therefore, when clients walk into your hair salon, they must feel welcomed and comfortable from the very first moment.
WELCOME WHERE: Salon reception or waiting area BEFORE IN-SALON VISIT: While planning an appointment by phone, take the opportunity to inform the client about the Naturaltech treatments currently available or any special promotion available at the moment of the call.
APPOINTMENT PROTOCOL THANK YOU FOR CALLING (SALON NAME). MY NAME IS, AND HOW I MAY ASSIST YOU TODAY SCHEDULE APPOINTMENT WITH DESIRED IN-SALON SERVICE TAKE THE OPPORTUNITY TO OFFER THE NATURALTECH IN-SALON SERVICES OR PROMOTION IF THE CLIENT IS INTERESTED, SCHEDULE THE CLIENT PROPERLY BEFORE HER INITIAL DESIRED SERVICE RECONFIRM THE CLIENT APPOINTMENT SCHEDULE THANK YOU FOR CALLING
DURING IN-SALON VISIT: Once the client enters the salon, always greet them warmly. Greet them politely, smile, offer them a drink, and ask them to wait in a designated area if you cannot service them at the moment. For this reason, the WAITING AREA is so important, as it should make the client feel comfortable. Create an enticing and engaging space using all the available Naturaltech in-salon materials. GREETING PROTOCOL: REFLECT PROFESSIONALISM PROJECT POSITIVE BODY LANGUAGE SMILE AND WELCOME CLIENTS TO THE SALON TAKE THE CLIENT'S NAME CONFIRM IN-SALON SERVICE INFORME CLIENT OF THE FOLLOWING STEP INVITE THE CLIENT TO START HER JOURNEY
INTERNATIONAL COLOUR GEMIUS 20
SCALP CARE EXPERT
HOW TO DIAGNOSE DIFFERENT SCALP IMBALANCES CLIENT CONSULTATION & DIAGNOSIS Hairdresser client consultation is often perceived differently from the client point of view. Did you know that up to 95% of hairdressers say they carry out a complete consultation and diagnosis process? However, a mere 8% claimed that they had received a complete and precise consultation and diagnosis process. Therefore, the learning client perception of consultation and diagnosis is different from a hairdresser's point of view. In this learning, we outline some helpful ways to provide effective communications for every step of a clients salon experience.
CONSULTATION AND DIAGNOSIS COMPRISES OF FOUR STEPS CONSULTATION ASSESSING DIAGNOSIS RECOMMENDATION
CONSULTATION & DIAGNOSSIS WHERE: NATURALTECH designated area, or hairstylist station First, before seating the client at the consultation space, gently room spray the NATURALTECH Elevating Fragrance a few times into the air to create a refreshing ambience in the space with pleasant sent, creating a memorable journey for the client. Invite the client to sit in the NATURALTECH consultation space and help the client feel confident and informed during consultation. Exploring her needs, ask the client permission to touch the head and hair before beginning the analysis. First, check the scalp and then proceed to the hair. Remember, every scalp and hair is different, and some clients could need more encouragement than others to express their needs. Use the CONSULTATION FORM and the SERVICE MENU to diagnose your client correctly. Once an appropriate course of action is selected, explain the treatment procedure. Help your client select a desired service for the visit, and explain the steps of the CLASSIC SERVICE, proposing additional steps such as an ADD ON. Throughout each step, emphasize the rituality aspect and how one service can build from another. To finish the diagnosis, recap the desired service chosen, including the time and cost of the service.
Bellow, we suggest a protocol consultation step that encourages the client to define her needs.
CONSULTATION PROTOCOL LISTEN – what the client concern ANALYSIS AND DIAGNOSIS – Asset scalp and hair for the anomaly with the recommended NATURALTECH tools.
RECOMMEND – Present client recommended treatment with the recommended home routine. PROCEDURE – Explain treatment procedure and time. REASSURED – To finish the diagnosis, recap the desired service, reconfirm the needed time and cost of the service. BEGIN – with client consentment, Invite them to start the ritual journey
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SCALP CARE EXPERT
DIFFERENT SCALP IMBALANCES ASSESSING SCALP & DIAGNOSIS You have previously learned that the sweat, sebaceous and apocrine glands are essential in determining hair and scalp type. The normal secretion of these glands is a natural process that gives skin at the scalp elasticity, moisture for healthy, strong and lustrous hair growth. However, diet, blood circulation, emotional distress, drugs, hormonal Fluctuation and natural ageing influence production. Naturaltech products offer specific treatments for in-salon or home care rituals, improving scalp and hair conditions. All NATURALTECH products are highly versatile and could be used as a classic service or add-on other speciality products to customize treatment recommendations.
BEFORE ASSESSING THE SCALP MAY I EXAMINE YOUR SCALP AND HAIR HAVE YOU EVER DONE SPECIALITY TREATMENT BEFORE? IF YES, WHAT WAS THE TREATMENT FOR A SPECIFIC PROBLEM? HOW OFTEN DO YOU SHAMPOO YOUR HAIR IN A WEEK? DO YOU TREAT OR CONDITION YOUR HAIR AFTER SHAMPOO? HOW MUCH TIME DO YOU HAVE TO TREAT YOUR SCALP AND HAIR?
HAIR AND SCALP TYPES FALL INTO THE FOLLOWING BROAD CATEGORIES: OILY SCALP DRY SCALP AGEING SCALP DANDRUFF SCALP
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SCALP CARE EXPERT
DIFFERENT SCALP IMBALANCES HOW TO ASSESS DIAGNOSIS OF DIFFERENT SCALP IMBALANCES While building your knowledge on the skin, this learning explores common scalp imbalances in detail with recommendations for assessing and identifying different types of scalp imbalances. Remember, healthy lavish hair starts with a healthy, well-balanced scalp. During verbal consultation, use a comb to part the hair at every 3cm to assess the client scalp condition. Additionally, slightly rub the scalp with your fingers to identify if hydrolipidic film (acid mantle) production is balanced or not. At the same time, check for dandruff, redness, scaling and any other signs of scalp imbalances. SCALP IMBALANCE
SYMPTOMS
OILY SCALP – Overactive sebaceous glands produce an excess of sebum, making hair limp and lank. It may be due to hormonal changes, often evident during puberty or menopause. Many people have a naturally oily scalp, resulting in greasy hair. Fair hair is much finer than dark hair. Hence it is more susceptible to excess oil. Clients suffering from an oily scalp frequently report experiencing itchy scalps with dandruff (Pityriasis steatoides).
• • • •
Unbalance scalp pH. The scalp is in a low acidic pH Excess sebum can cause hair loss Oily dandruff
DRY SCALP – A dry scalp occurs when it lacks its hydrolipidic film and does not have enough oil (sebum/lipid) for the skin to feel lubricated. Like other forms of dry skin, this can cause itching, flaking, and irritation. It can also cause the hair to look dry since oil from the scalp helps condition the hair.
• • • •
The scalp is in an alkane state Dry, itchy and irritating. skin conditions, such as eczema Dry dandruff flake
AGEING SCALP – The scalp's skin is ageing six times faster than facial skin as the client ages. Therefore, the skin begins to lose its quality. The scalp becomes thinner, loses its elasticity and moisture. The result. Dry, itchy scalp and increased sensitivity. Therefore, the hair becomes brittle or thinner and start greying with hair loss.
• • • • •
The scalp is in an alkane state. Sebum (lipid) production decreasing Loss of skin elasticity Decreasing of hair diameter and hair loss Dry, irritating, sensitive scalp
DANDRUFF SCALP – Normally, epidermal cells complete their renewal every 30 days. During this time, they undergo a migration process from the basal layer to the stratum corneum – the most outer layer of skin – where they finally disintegrate and fall off. Imbalanced skin conditions cause this cell turnover to increase up to 10x, leading to defective cellshedding – dandruff occurs due to an imbalanced keratinization process during this excessive cell migration.
OILY DANDRUFF • The scalp is in a low acidic • Bacteria or Fungi • Poor circulation or health situation • Nutritional • Psychogenic factor DRY DANDRUFF • The scalp is in an alkaline state. • Dry, itchy and irritating
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SCALP CARE EXPERT
SCALP RITUAL SCALP IMBALANCE PRODUCT RECOMMENDATION The most positive client experience during her in-salon journey is at the backwash. Did you know that 86% of clients consider Shampoo, treatment and massage their favourite moment of their visit?
THEY ARE FOUR DIFFERENT APPROACHES TO TREATMENTS CLASSIC TREATMENT
PREMIUM TREATMENT
SPA TREATMENT
Classic treatments are designed to act on your client's scalp and hair anomaly. It is the ideal introduction after a technical service for those clients in a rush. The treatment gives an instant result, effectively meeting your client's expectations on NATURALTECH products.
Premium treatment includes ADD-ONS: various products that you might use to enhance NATURALTECH treatments. It is an ideal solution to address a secondary concern of the client and offer a customized speciality service.
Spa treatment is an elevated offer of 5 different massages to enhance and leverage on the Naturaltech classic or premium in-salon experience. • • • • •
WELCOME Massage CLEANSING Massage RELAXING Massage HAND Massage VITALITY Massage
5 MIN. NATURALTECH TEASER A quick introduction to Naturaltech services based on different option leaveon products and the Vitality Massage. An ideal preview of Naturaltech speciality leave-in treatment for clients unfamiliar with the line that came into the salon for another service or is don't have time for the complete treatment.
NATURALTECH PRODUCT PORTFOLIO FOR SCALP IMBALANCE DESCRIPTION
SCALP CARE EXPERT INSIGHT
NATURALTECH
OIL SCALP
A gentle but effective normalizing and rebalancing cleansing that works against excess sebum production.
REBALANCING DETOX
• Purifying Shampoo • Purifying Gel • Detox Scrub Shampoo
DRY SCALP
A caring scalp system rich in vitamins and essential amino acids with nourishing, moisturizing and soothing properties provide enormous benefits to the scalp.
RENEWING CALMING NOURISHING ELEVATING
• • • • •
AGEING SCALP
A gentle cleansing and caring System to maintain the scalp and hair wellbeing and support the preventive ageing treatment.
DANDRUFF
Anti-fungal and bacteria scalp cleansing reduces inflammation and fights against the formation of oily or dry dandruff, decreasing the skin cell turnover at the scalp.
RECOMMENDATION
Shampoo Conditioning Treatment Calming Superactive Royal Jelly Scalp Recovery Treatment
• Shampoo RENEWING
PURIFYING
• Conditioning Treatment • Calming Superactive • Scalp Recovery Treatment • Shampoo • Gel
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SCALP CARE EXPERT
SCALP RITUAL PROFESSIONAL SERVICE A MESSAGE PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN ENHANCING THE EFFICACY OF PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS WHILE ALSO BEING AN ESSENTIAL MOMENT TAKEN TO RESTORE THE CLIENT'S WELLBEING AND RELAXATION The Naturaltech massages have been revised and enriched to provide highly customizable treatments and adaptable to any situation, making the services offered to the customer feel more experiential, like a ritual. All massages are independent and can be adapted according to the service desired. WELCOME MASSAGE
CLEANSING MASSAGE
VITALITY MASSAGE
RELAXING MASSAGE
HAND MASSAGE
PRODUCTS: Pre shampoo application: for Elevating Clay Supercleanser, Rebalancing Cleansing Treatment
PRODUCTS: Choose an appropriate to the proposed treatment Naturaltech leave-on product. On toweldried hair.
PRODUCTS: Elevating Oil
PRODUCTS:
DURATION: 10 Min
DURATION: 15 Min
DURATION: 10 Min
DURATION: 15 Min
DURATION: 5 Min
Discover the dedicated video on how-too
Discover the dedicated video on how-too
Discover the dedicated video on how-too
Discover the dedicated video on how-too
Discover the dedicated video on how-too
PRODUCTS: Elevating Oil
Discover the dedicated video on how-too
Elevating Oil
LEARN MORE ABOUT NATURALTECH PRODUCT AND ITS SERVICED CLICK HERE WHERE: NATURALTECH designated area, or hairstylist station/backwash PREP TOOLS AND WORKING SPACE Prepare your NATURALTECH needed tools for the treatment, such as the towel, bowl, turban, brushes, spoon, applicator bottle and products on the dedicated tray. Ensure the backwash is clean and comfortable for the client. Spray in the air the NATURALTECH Ambiance spray to create a relaxing space.
START THE RITUAL Ask your client to touch the scalp and hair, which will help to reinforce the Naturaltech treatment performance when the treatment is complete. While performing the treatment, explain the procedure, product properties, and ingredients again. Follow the treatment Step by Step guide depending on the treatment chosen. At the stylist station, you may show dedicated products for the home maintenance ritual, explaining the function of each product.
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SCALP CARE EXPERT
BRING THE SALON RITUAL HOME SCALP AND HAIR HOME CARE & WELLBEING Did You know that salon professional retail can account for 5% - 20% of salon turnover? In a market where hairdressers compete with retail outlets for an array of similar products, the real point of difference, as professional hair care experts, we have the expertise to assess, diagnose and recommend specific hair care solutions from professional products such as NATURALTECH. Therefore, our responsibility as professional hair care experts is to inspire the client with our knowledge, understanding, and passion about the health and condition of their scalp and hair. In return, it will contribute to your professional retail business growth. Professional treatments always start with the client during her in-salon journey. Therefore, our responsibility as professionals is to recommend the appropriate home care routine to maintain the client's scalp and hair wellbeing following the client in-salon NATURALTECH ritual.. PROTOCOL RECOMMENDATION ON HOME CARE ROUTINE During the consultation, present the recommended product for the ritual with home care products At backwash reconfirm product usage during the ritual and its benefit Once the ritual is complete, reaffirm the performance of the products. Ask the client to touch and feel scalp and hair results. Let the client enjoy the moment and answer any questions the client may have. Accompany the client to the retail area to recommend her personalized home care ritual. Explain to the client the professional difference and how to use the products with usage frequency Don't force the sale. The client must feel the desire to make the purchase. When the client checkout, offer her a sample of another recommended product for her hair Goodbye moment RETAIL AREA RECOMMENDATION AND TIPS DO
DON'T
FOCUS ON
• Group product family together within the salon area near the checkout. • Group-specific products to promote and maintain in-salon ritual services such as dry, oily, ageing or dandruff scalp. • Make new products stand out with the latest innovation and recommendation information. • Discovery and promotional table. Display product themed of the month or star products • Place at eye level the best selling products. • Have some samples to promote an interest in a specific product.
• Place retail units facing the outside window. The client won't have access to the product, • Don't place or hide product behind the reception. They must remain accessible for the client. • Don't put the price in front of the products. Remember, the client must touch, feel and smell the product before seeing the price.
• Have a dedicated area for products to be presented and manipulated by the client, even if you have a small salon. • One display of a starified NATURALTECH family group • Have specific seasonal product family display at the NATURALTECH Consultation designated space. During her waiting, it encourages the client to feel and smell them and read the information.
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SCALP CARE EXPERT
GOODBYE IN-SALON EMOTIONAL EXPERIENCE Did you know that 50% of clients feel rushed at the checkout, and 60% feel less considered? After the client NATURALTECH ritual and home care recommendation, always walk with the client at the reception for checkout. At this time, confirm with the client if expectations and satisfaction were met. Ask if any questions regarding the home care routine and take time to answer them. If no question, Invite the client to schedule her next salon visit and settle the bill with the client. REMEMBER A CLIENT SATISFACTION OF HER IN-SALON JOURNEY, BRING NEW CLIENTS TO THE SALON AND BUILD LOYALTY AMONG THE EXISTING CLIENTS!
We hope you enjoyed your learning journey of module two, chaprter one of your International Colour Geniue eLearning.
GOODBYE See you in Chapter Three!
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SCALP ANATOMY
REVISION QUESTIONS We invite you to revise your learning by answering the questions below. All answers were in your learning.
Q01:
NATURALTECH is the combination of three elements?
Q02:
NATURALTECH name was chosen to express the importance that davines give to?
Q03:
NATURALTECH is designed to treat specifically?
Q04:
What are the four causes of scalp imbalances
Q05:
What are the five essential vital phases during client time spent in the salon?
Q06:
What percentage of clients say they had received a complete and precise consultation?
Q07:
What are the four-step to professional in-salon consultations?
Q08:
What are the most common scalp imbalances?
Q09:
Which part of the client in -salon journey is recognized as the most positive experience?
Q10:
What are the four different NATURELTECH approach to hair treatment?
Q11:
What are the five scalp in-salon rituals?
Q12:
5% -20% of your salon turnover should be from yours?
Q13:
What percentage of client feels rushed at checkout?
Q14:
At the end of the client journey, alway s?
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MY GENIUS NOTE
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