OSMO IKON Technical Manual

TECHNICAL

MANUAL

COLOUR

WITHOUT LIMITS Experience the latest innovation in permanent hair colour with OSMO IKON® permanent colour formulated with Micro-Connective Technology (MCT) - special micro sized colour molecules, which link together within the hair shaft not requiring extreme opening of the hair cuticle therefore offering less opportunity for the colour molecules to escape from the hair after each colour service.

The OSMO IKON® range comprises 105 shades shared across 20 tonal families, from rich mochas and vibrant coppers to superlight blondes with soft pastel hues offering the unique benefits found only in a hybrid or dual colour system, resulting in endless colour results.

With extensive colouring options and true colour results, teamed with easy mixing and incredibly smooth application, serious colourists experience the total freedom to express their creativity and versatility with greater confidence.

CONTENTS THE TECHNOLOGY

4

PREPARATION

5

MANUFACTURER’S INSTRUCTIONS

5

5 BASIC RULES OF COLOUR

6

THE COLOUR WHEEL

7

OSMO IKON® COLOUR SYSTEM

10

POWER LIFT BLEACH

14

CREAM DEVELOPERS

17

MIXING

18

DEVELOPMENT PROCESS

19

APPLICATION

20

COLOUR BALANCING/ MATCHING SERVICE

21

WHITE HAIR COVERAGE

22

COLOUR CORRECTION METHODS

24

COLOUR BACK TECHNIQUES

25

OSMOIKON® TECHNICAL MANUAL

THE TECHNOLOGY MICRO CONNECTIVE TECHNOLOGY (MCT) The Micro-sized OSMO IKON® colour molecules are easily absorbed in through the hair cuticle, allowing for a much lower ammonia content within the formula. Hair condition is significantly improved. MCT molecules are locked into the cortex, providing longer lasting colour clarity, complete white hair coverage and multidimensional shine.

Formulated with moisture and strengthening Chia Oil and Tamanu Seed Extract combined with a light fresh fruit fragrance, OSMO IKON® colour provides active conditioning to produce supple and sleek hair that looks and feels healthy and natural. OSMO IKON® has a special cream-gel formula that not only renders easier application but allows better hold and a quicker migration of the colour into hair.

The components of OSMO IKON® are derived from Vitamin E compounds which allow better permanence in time and laboratory tests have proven a 38% increase of colour permanence compared to the same formula without multi-vitamins. These same protective substances guarantee a 10% increased hair protection from mechanical resistance and effective protection from exposure of UV rays.

Anti-oxidising agents contained in OSMO IKON® maintain stability for over 3 years, even after the tube has been opened. More intense colours and perfect permanence in time.

4

HYBRID/DUAL COLOUR SYSTEM OSMO IKON® offers the unique ability to be a Hybrid/Dual colouring system. This means that each intermixable tube of colour has the ability to give either a Permanent or DemiPermanent colour result.

The Hybrid/Dual colouring system is determined by the use of 10Vol, 20Vol, 30Vol & 40Vol OSMO IKON® Cream Developer for a permanent result or 5Vol Cream Developer or 7Vol Gel Developer (Tone-on-Tone Activator) for a long lasting Demi-permanent result. This allows an opportunity to colour balance or match mid-lengths and ends with exactly the same root colour used, resulting in seamless colour results with strengthening condition and shine leading to even longer lasting colour.

PREPARATION SKIN TEST APPLICATION A skin patch test must be performed 48 hours prior to each colour service to ensure your client does not have an allergic reaction.

1.

Prepare test solution, mixing 1 part of the shade to be used with 1 part OSMO IKON® Cream Developer.

2. Apply mixture to test area (in the bend of the arm or behind the ear) using absorbent cotton tipped applicator.

3. Leave on for 48 hours, if no reaction has occurred, you are ready to colour.

4. If your client has a tattoo the risk of allergic reaction may be increased.

Do not use hair colour if any of these danger signs appear: Burning, itching, swelling, eruption or irritation - if any of these signs appear in or around the test area, rinse immediately with lukewarm water.

Before colouring the hair again, recommend that your client consult a doctor.

MANUFACTURER’S INSTRUCTIONS Manufacturer’s instructions must be followed at all times. These can also be found inside each OSMO IKON® colour carton.

•

OSMO IKON® can only guarantee results when OSMO IKON® products are used together correctly.

•

Do not use hair colour if any of these danger signs appear:

•

Burning, itching, swelling, eruption or irritation - if any of these signs appear in or around the test area, rinse immediately with lukewarm water. Before colouring the hair again, recommend that your client consult a doctor.

5

OSMOIKON® TECHNICAL MANUAL

5 BASIC RULES OF COLOUR

Determine the natural base (taking percentage of grey hair into consideration)

Determine the target colour you wish to achieve

Determine the tone you wish to achieve and recognise the natural underlying warmth/ pigment contribution

Determine the volume (%) of developer needed to achieve lift or deposit colour

For consistent and guaranteed results Measure OSMO IKON® Developer Timing

6

YELLOWYELLOW

RED

RE

YELLOWYELLOW

BLUE

BL

BLUE

BL

PRIMARY

PRIMARY

PRIMARY

PRIMARY

RED

RED

PRIMARY

PRIMARY

PRI

PRI

THE COLOUR WHEEL The use of the colour wheel can be crucial to any colour service and a useful reference tool to help ensure colour formulations result in the desired outcome and when either lifting out or depositing colour back into the hair.

PRIMARY

PRIMARY colours cannot be made, these are;

PRIMARY PRIMARY

ORANGE ORANGE VIOLET VIOLET GREEN GREEN

A primary colour will sit opposite a secondary colour and are used mostly to help neutralise each other.

When all of the primary colours are mixed together within hair colour, a neutral brown is created.

YELLOW

YELLOW

PRIMARY

PRIMARY

YELLOW

ORANGE

PRIMARY

RED

PRIMARY

YELLOW PRIMARY

BLUE

ORA

PRIMARY

SECON

ORANGE SECONDARY

YELLOW

BLUE

BLUE

GREEN

PRIMARY

GRE

PRIMARY

SECON

SECONDARY

RED

PRIMARY

PRIMARY

VIOLET

RED

PRIMARY

SECONDARY

PRIMARY PRIMARY BLUE

RED

SECONDARY

PRIMARY

YELLOW YELLOW RED RED BLUE

PRI

SECONDARY SECONDARY

YELLOW YELLOW RED RED BLUEBLUE

SECONDARY

PRIMARY

When two of these primary colours are mixed together we create what is known as SECONDARY colours:

The colour wheel is made up of PRIMARY, SECONDARY and TERTIARY colours.

GREEN

PRIMARY

RED

BLUE

BLUE

VIOLET

PRIMARY PRIMARY

SECONDARY SECONDARY ORANGE VIOLET GREEN

ORANGE VIOLET GREEN

VIOL

PRIMARY

SECON

SECONDARY

7

OSMOIKON® TECHNICAL MANUAL

THE COLOUR WHEEL (CONT.) When a primary and adjacent secondary colour are mixed together we create what is known as TERTIARY colour: • RED + VIOLET = RED-VIOLET • YELLOW + ORANGE = YELLOW-ORANGE • BLUE + GREEN = TEAL • RED + ORANGE = RED-ORANGE

EXAMPLE 1: PROBLEM:

Unwanted Green tones (Yellow + Blue present).

SOLUTION:

To counteract this, Red is required (remaining Primary)

RESULT:

All three Primary colours are present resulting in Neutral Brown

• YELLOW + GREEN = YELLOW-GREEN • BLUE + VIOLET = BLUE-VIOLET

EXAMPLE 2:

Tertiary colours when used can enhance, neutralise or subdue an existing or target colour.

PROBLEM:

Unwanted Orange tones (Yellow + Red present)

SOLUTION:

To counteract this, Blue is required (remaining Primary)

RESULT:

All three Primary colours are present resulting in Neutral Brown

RED

PRIMARY

VIOLET

SECONDARY

RED-VIOLET TERTIARY

EXAMPLE 3:

YELLOW PRIMARY

SECONDARY

YELLOW-ORANGE

GREEN

TEAL

RED

ORANGE

RED-ORANGE

YELLOW

GREEN

YELLOW-GREEN

BLUE

VIOLET

BLUE-VIOLET

PRIMARY

PRIMARY

PRIMARY

SECONDARY

SECONDARY

SECONDARY

SECONDARY

Red Violet tones

PROBLEM:

Warm Red (Red + Orange present)

SOLUTION:

To enhance this, Blue-Violet is required (missing tertiary)

RESULT:

Blue neutralised Orange and Violet enhanced adjacent Red

TERTIARY

BLUE

PRIMARY

8

ORANGE

TARGET:

TERTIARY

TERTIARY

TERTIARY

TERTIARY

RED

PROBLEM

ORANGE RED/ ORANGE

YELLOW ORANGE/ YELLOW

LEVELS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 SOLUTION

GREEN/ BLUE

GREEN

BLUE/ VIOLET

BLUE

VIOLET 9

OSMOIKON® TECHNICAL MANUAL

OSMO IKON® COLOUR SYSTEM NUMBERING SYSTEM OSMO IKON® is represented by the International Numbering System using numbers to describe each tone or reflect.

EXAMPLE:

6.4 = DARK COPPER BLONDE

The number appearing before the decimal point always represents the level of depth of each shade.

The darkest being Black – represented as 1.0, up to Lightest Blonde – being represented as 10.0

LEVEL OF DEPTH

When more than one number appears after the decimal point (representing reflect/tone) the first number will always be stronger of the two or three reflect/tones.

EXAMPLE: 6.43 DARK COPPER GOLDEN BLONDE 6.

Level of Depth (Dark Blonde)

.4

Strongest reflect/tone (Copper)

.(4)3

weaker reflect/tone (Gold)

If the two or more of the same number/ reflect/tone, follow the decimal point, this is described as Intense.

EXAMPLE: 7.44 MEDIUM INTENSE COPPER BLONDE

LEVEL 1.

Black

LEVEL 3.

Dark Brown

LEVEL 4.

Medium Brown

LEVEL 5.

Light Brown

EXAMPLE: 6.666 ULTRA RED 6

LEVEL 6.

Dark Blonde

6.

Level of Depth (Dark Blonde)

LEVEL 7.

Medium Blonde

.666

Triple Tone Intense RED+

LEVEL 8.

Light Blonde

EXAMPLE: 8.003 LIGHT WARM BEIGE BLONDE

LEVEL 9.

Very Light Blonde

LEVEL 10.

Lightest Blonde

8.

Level of Depth (Light Blonde)

.00(3)

Double Tone Intense Natural = will subdue Natural underlying Warmth

.(00)3

Weaker reflect (Gold) to reflect light/shine

7.

Level of Depth (Medium Blonde)

.44

Double Tone = Intense Copper

TONE/REFLECT Numbers after the decimal point represent the tone or ‘reflect’ of each shade. .0

Natural

.1

Ash

.2

Violet

.3

Gold

.4

Copper

.5

Mahogany

• HI-LIFT RED - No Depth Level/Intense Tones

.6

Red

• TONERS PLUS - Pure Tone/No Depth

.7

Mocha

.8

Pearl

10

Exceptions to the Numbering System are the following OSMO IKON® colour families: • 12. SERIES - Hi Lift Blonde/ Above Depth Level

• 0.00 – No Depth NoTone/Extra Lift

1-10 SERIES Utilising 9 tonal categories, the 1-10 series is your classic colouring system with the added value of being a Hybrid/Dual Colour System allowing for permanent and demi-permanent in the same tube.

NATURALS .0 - Natural browns and blondes utilising and adding the natural undercoat of the hair that is ideal for grey coverage to create a slight warm natural effect.

NATURAL COOL .01 (.00) - Natural browns and blondes with the ability to cover grey and subdue warm tones to create a natural cool tone.

COPPER INTENSE .44 - Extra orange/red tones create a rich bright reflective copper result.

MAHOGANY .5 - Rich red brown tonal reflect COOL RED .62 - Deep rich red with cool violet undertones.

ULTRA RED INTENSE .666 - Intense red plus extra red for maximum impact.

MOCHA .7 (CHOCOLATE) - Red, ash and natural tones, on darker levels create a warm chocolate and lighter levels a cool mocha.

PEARL .8 - Utilising violet, ash and red for soft neutralising of yellow/orange tones.

NATURAL WARM .03 (NW) - Natural rich warm browns and blondes ideal for replacing the natural warm background that may have been lost.

WARM BEIGE .003 (BAHIA) - A combination of the intensity of the naturals and the tertiary of the gold, on darker levels will create a reflect of glossy tanned leather and lighter tones a soft fawn, beige.

ASH .1 - Blue based ash tones for the neutralisation of exposed warm reflect.

ASH INTENSE .11 - Extra ash tones for the elimination of exposed red/orange reflect.

VIOLET .2 - Soft neutralization of warm exposed tones.

VIOLET INTENSE .22 (8.2, 10.2) - Strong deposit of violet tones for deep cooling or near vivid results.

COOL BEIGE .13 (NATURAL ASH GOLDEN) For a cool beige high shine reflect.

GOLD .3 (GOLDEN) - Rich gold tones for deep rich browns and glossy golden blondes.

COPPER GOLD .43 - Copper and gold tones create natural auburn results.

COPPER .4 - High gloss deep copper tones for rich auburn results.

11

OSMOIKON® TECHNICAL MANUAL

OSMO IKON® COLOUR SYSTEM (CONT.) TONERS PLUS

SPECIAL LIGHTENERS

All Metallics, intensifiers and correctors can be used as standalone toners using OSMO IKON® 5Vol Cream or 7Vol Gel Developer and can be used to customise your permanent colour formula for intensity, tone or correction. NB. All Toners Plus have no base level, only visual level.

HI-LIFT REDS are designed to gently lighten, expose the natural underlying warmth and deposit colour all in one step to deliver unparalleled bright, reflective reds without the need for pre-lightening.

• Dark Anthracite 0.1111 • Medium Graphite 0.111 • Light Aluminium 0.11 • Apricot 0.034 • Strawberry 0.06 • Lilac 0.82

• 1:1.5 Mixing Ratio 30ml Hi-Lift Red + 45ml 30/40Vol OSMO Developer • 50 min development time • Not recommended for white hair coverage OSMO IKON® offer several options delivering outstanding colour results, determined by the needs of each individual whilst maintaining the best in condition and shine.

• Ice 0.001

SUPER NATURAL BLONDES

• Aquamarine AM

• Designed for lightening up to 4-5 levels

• P Pearl

• Recommended for use on Natural hair only

• S Silver

• Lightens and tones simultaneously

• V Violet

• 1:2 Mixing Ratio 30ml Super Blondes shade + 60ml 40Vol OSMO Developer(12%)

• Y Yellow • R Red

• 50 min development time

• B Blue

• Allow for the addition of exposed, underlying warmth when formulating

Traditionally 1-10 series permanent colours have maximum ability to lighten up to 3 levels on natural hair. As all clients have different hair types and desire varying colour results, the need for special lightening products to gain extra lift is sometimes necessary.

When the need for lightening existing artificial colour, always use corrective measures and suitable lighteners for both the required amount of colour removal and consideration for the condition of the hair.

12

• Not recommended for White Hair Coverage

HI-LIFT BOOST 0.00 • Contains no depth, reflect or tonal value • Special additive to 1-10 series shades for added lightness and brightness up to 1 level • Can be added to Super Natural Blondes for extra lift add 50% of 0.00 to the mixture. Note: this may dilute the desired tone so a stronger tone could be chosen to allow for loss.

EXAMPLE 1: 40ml 7.4 + 10ml 0.00 + 50ml Required OSMO IKON® Developer Resulting in a lighter, brighter Copper Blonde EXAMPLE 2: 20ml 12.2 + 20ml 0.00 + 80ml required OSMO IKON® Developer Resulting in more lift, ideally used from Level 6/7 or lighter.

0.00 can be used on its own without adding other OSMO IKON® shades, to create further special uses when mixed with required OSMO Developer 1:1.5 Mixing Ratio EXAMPLE 3: 20ml 0.00 + 30ml Required OSMO IKON® Developer • Removing Colour Bands/Correcting Uneven Colour • Soft Sun Kissed effect on Natural hair • Up to 2 levels lightening on coloured hair when using 30/40Vol OSMO IKON® Developer • Enhances Natural or Artificial Reflect/Tone • Allows for natural underlying warmth to show through

phite 0 .1 1

Medium Gra

1

• TONERS PLUS can be added to enhance or reduce Reflect/Tone or underlying pigment

Strawber

ry 0.06

13

OSMOIKON® TECHNICAL MANUAL

POWER LIFT BLEACH BLUE & WHITE

• Quick lift formulation

OSMO IKON® advanced lifting formula combined with special conditioning elements deliver exceptional lightening results with up to 7 levels of lift.

• Up to 7 levels of lift

Available in White and Blue Dust Free formulations, both Ideal for on and off scalp application, whilst its smooth consistency allows for easy mixing and simple fuss free application.

• Dust free means safer mixing • Conditioning elements leave the hair feeling soft and supple • Up to 1:2 mixing ratio • 10, 20, 30, 40Vol Cream Developer for off-scalp foil and closed applications • 40Vol Cream Developer for open air/ balayage techniques or off scalp applications • 10-20Vol Cream Developer for on scalp applications

14

BLONDE ELEVATION PREMIUM VIOLET LIGHTENING POWDER A premium, high level, dust-free bleach, delivering up to an incredible 9+ levels of lift.

This violet pigment infused formula helps banish unwanted warm tones for the cleanest possible results whilst helping to maintain the integrity of the hair.

• Up to 9+ levels of incredible lifting action • Dust free means safer mixing • Formulated with Bond Builder Technology • Up to 1:2 mixing ratio • 10,20,30Vol Cream Developer for off scalp foil/enclosed applications • 40Vol Cream Developer for open air/ balayage techniques or off scalp applications • 10-20Vol Cream Developer for on scalp applications

CLAY ADDITIVE A Kaolin Clay based additive designed to alter the consistency of any OSMO IKON® lightening powder to a malleable, creamy, ‘stay-in-place’ texture that encapsulates the hair for maximum lift that helps stop the product transfer or bleeding, allowing for a more precise application.

• Formulated with the KAOLIN mineral that helps against sensitivity with on scalp application • Alters the texture of the lightning product for precise open-air techniques • Helps prevent product migration with onscalp retouch • Prevents lightening product from drying out and boosts lift • No dilution of lifting power

15

OSMOIKON® TECHNICAL MANUAL

COLOUR ADDITIVES A range of intermixable intense pigments developed to be added to any of the OSMO IKON® lighteners to help neutralise or subdue any unwanted tones which may be revealed during the lightening process.

EXAMPLE 1

• Can be added to OSMO IKON® colour formulas to help enhance, neutralise or subdue the final result

Mix 9 pumps of BLUE COLOUR ADDITIVE to 30g POWER LIFT/BLONDE ELEVATION formula to help neutralise unwanted ORANGE tones

• No compromising of lift or development time

Mix 9 pumps of VIOLET COLOUR ADDITIVE to 30g POWER LIFT/BLONDE ELEVATION bleach formula to help neutralise unwanted YELLOW tones

Mix 9 pumps of GREEN COLOUR ADDITIVE to 30g POWER LIFT/BLONDE ELEVATION formula to help neutralise unwanted RED tones EXAMPLE 2 Add up to 5 pumps of YELLOW COLOUR ADDITIVE to your OSMO IKON® copper formula to enhance more orange tones EXAMPLE 3 For enhanced warm beige/strawberry formulas add 1-4 drops RED COLOUR ADDITIVE.

16

PEROXIDE CREAM DEVELOPERS OSMO IKON® shine-boosting Cream Developers work in unison with OSMO IKON® hair colour to provide brilliant, multidimensional colour.

When mixed with OSMO IKON® hair colour, Micro-Connective Technology (MCT) molecules are absorbed deep onto the internal cortical hair fibres, ensuring that each hair strand is infused with vibrant long-lasting colour, aiding in the creamy, smooth consistency with the light fresh fruity fragrance for which OSMO IKON® is renowned.

• 10Vol - adding depth, staying on the same level 1 level of lift and white hair coverage • 20Vol - 2 levels of lift, , reflect/tone change, • 30Vol - 3 levels of lift with 1-10 series

CREAM DEVELOPER (5Vol / 1.5%) GEL DEVELOPER (7Vol / 2%) OSMO IKON® Cream/Gel Developers are designed to work together with OSMO IKON® professional hair colour, to revive and enhance colour from roots to ends. Cream for bowl and brush or Gel for bottle applications.

When combined with OSMO IKON® hair colour the Cream/Gel Developers create a secondary range of long lasting demi-permanent shades providing an ideal progression from permanent to ‘tone on tone’ effect.

Utilising the same colour, pigment can be deposited through the mid-lengths and ends of the hair to balance or match the same reflect/tone or intensity thus creating a gentler colour application, resulting in longer lasting shine and enhanced colour results.

• 40Vol - 4 levels of lift with 1-10 series, up to 4 – 5 levels of lift with Super Blondes

17

OSMOIKON® TECHNICAL MANUAL

MIXING Desired Result

Mixing Proportion

Mix

Processing Time

(Demi-permanent)

1:2

30ml 1-10 Series + 60ml 5Vol (1.5%) -7Vol (2%) Developer

Up to 20mins

Darker 1-2 Levels

1:1

45ml 1-10 Series + 45ml 10Vol Developer (3%)

40 mins

Lightening Up To 1 Level Stay On The Same Depth Reflect/Tone Change

1:1

45ml 1-10 Series + 45ml 10Vol Developer (3%)

40 mins

White Hair Coverage

1:1

45ml 1-10 Series + 45ml 10Vol Developer (3%)

45mins

Lightening Up To 2 Levels

1:1

45ml 1-10 Series + 45ml 20Vol Developer (6%)

40 mins

Lightening Up To 3 Levels

1:1

45ml 1-10 Series + 45ml 30Vol Developer (9%)

50 mins

Lightening Up To 4 Levels With 1-10 Series Plus Blonde Boost 0.00

1:1.5

15ml 1-10 Series + 15ml Blonde Boost + 45ml 40Vol Developer (12%)

50 mins

Lightening Up To 4 -5 Levels Using Super Blondes

1:2

30ml Super Blondes+ 60ml 40Vol Developer (12%)

50 mins

18

DEVELOPMENT PROCESS It is vitally important to adhere to the correct development time when using OSMO IKON® permanent hair colour mixing.

COMMON MIXING ERRORS More Developer than required can result in;

Less Developer than required can result in;

Less Coverage.

Unnatural colour result.

Loss of Reflect/tone.

Lack of intensity and brightness.

Premature Colour Fade.

Opaque tone.

Loss of Depth

More dense coverage.

Mixing scales are highly recommended for accurate and specific dispensing of the colour mix.

19

OSMOIKON® TECHNICAL MANUAL

APPLICATION To achieve optimum results, OSMO IKON® must be applied to clean and dry hair.

Application is quick and precise due to the unique formulation of Micro-Connective Technology which allows the micro-sized colour molecules to easily be absorbed into the hair shaft.

By applying too little product, the overall quality will be compromised, resulting in poor coverage, insufficient lift and low colour deposit which will lead to colour fade, always ensure sufficient amounts of OSMO IKON® is applied to the hair to allow for maximum lift, deposit and total development of colour within each individual hair shaft, resulting in brilliant, long lasting outstanding colour results.

OSMO IKON® has a smooth, soft cream consistency when dispensed directly from the tube. When mixed with OSMO IKON® Developers a light creamy texture is achieved which aides in the release of key conditioning ingredients and allows for the full development potential of OSMO IKON® colour shades.

PERMANENT COLOUR MIXING RATIO EXAMPLE: 1 part of OSMO IKON® 1-10 series + 1 parts of Developer 30ml of OSMO IKON® 1-10 series + 30ml of Developer

DEMI-PERMANENT MIXING RATIO EXAMPLE: 1 part of OSMO IKON® + 2 parts 5Vol Cream or 7Vol Gel Developer 30ml of OSMO IKON® + 60ml of 5Vol Cream or 7Vol Gel Developer N.B – It’s important to start application immediately after mixing the two components for optimum colour penetration, lift and/or coverage. When application is complete the mixed formula must be visible on the hair.

It is always recommended to use OSMO IKON® Developers when using OSMO IKON® hair colouring products.

The use of plastic bowls or shaker may be used when mixing OSMO IKON®. Mix carefully until its creamy consistency is obtained.

Light Inten

se Violet Blo

nde 8.22 Blonde 7.003 Medium Warm Beige

20

COLOUR BALANCING/MATCHING SERVICE To address a previous, faded permanent colour service there is the option to utilise the benefits of OSMO IKON®’s Hybrid system.

• Mix the same formula as their previous visit for the regrowth area and apply as per Manufacturer’s instructions: • 15 minutes prior to full development time you would apply the same OSMO IKON® colour mixed with OSMO IKON® 5Vol cream or 7Vol gel Developer to the mid lengths and ends. (NB excessive fade may require a slightly warmer formulation) This process will allow for the permanent colour to develop as required on the natural new growth (regrowth) area yet allowing for the even more gentle mixture of DemiPermanent on the area of hair which has already been permanently affected during the previous application and should only require deposit of reflect/tone.

VIRGIN HAIR APPLICATION When applying a colour to ‘virgin’ hair it is important to take into consideration that the scalp radiates heat, creating what is known as ‘root glow’. Therefore it is important to apply the colour 2-2.5cm away from the scalp only applying to the mid lengths and ends, when the pre-determined time has elapsed, the colour can then be applied to the root area from the remaining development time.

DEVELOPMENT TIME GUIDES GOING DARKER Step 1: Apply to the mid lengths and ends, avoiding the root area. Allow to develop for 5 minutes.

Step 2: Apply remaining product to the root area. Allow to develop further 40 minutes Total development time: 40 minutes *Additional 5 minutes if coverage of white hair may be required

GOING LIGHTER Step 1: Apply only to mid lengths and ends, avoiding the root area. Allow to develop for 20 minutes.

Step 2: Apply freshly mixed product to the root area, then re-apply over midlength and ends allowing to develop for a further 40 minutes.

Very L i

ght Bl

onde

9.0

To reduce processing time, gentle heat using an accelerator or processing cap can be used.

21

OSMOIKON® TECHNICAL MANUAL

WHITE HAIR COVERAGE NORMAL TEXTURE HAIR

RESISTANT WHITE HAIR

When white hair coverage is an issue the following guide is a recommendation only and specific cases may need further adjustment of colour mix. On a whole the following guide is for normal textured white hair.

In situations where your client has glassy or resistant white hair and extra coverage is required, the following suggestions offer alternatives for best results.

• Mixing ratio in these cases are 1 part colour + 1 part 10Vol Cream Developer Total development time is 45 minutes, reducing this can cause lack of coverage.

Because OSMO IKON® coverage is designed to enhance natural looking results and not ‘blanket or opaque’ results the following indicator enables the colourist to choose the OSMO IKON® hair colour to be applied according to existing white hair percentage.

When a Natural result is required the following options may be used.

MIXING GUIDE

OPTION 1. Chromaplex Chelating Mist – Lightly mist resistant white hair and leave for 4 minutes to allow the cuticle to gently open and for chelator to isolate and neutralise any metals/minerals that could hinder coverage.

OPTION 2. Reduce Cream Developer – When mixing your formula you should reduce the amount of Cream Developer by 25% as follows.

EXAMPLE: 40ml total OSMO IKON® colour

White Hair %

Natural/ Natural Cool

Reflect/ Cream Developer Tone Shade

Up To 30%

Not Required

40ml

40ml 10Vol

30% - 50%

15ml

25ml

40ml 10Vol

50% - 70%

20ml

20ml

40ml 10Vol

70% - 100%

25ml

15ml

40ml 10Vol

Coverage for up to 70% white hair requires using the same level as the remaining natural base or desired level mixed with 10Vol Cream Developer.

EXAMPLE: Natural Base Level: 6 Desired Result (Target) 6 % White Hair

50%

Formula

30ml 6.0 + 30ml 10Vol Cream Developer

22

It is always recommended to start with the first option and progress to the second and third only if necessary.

+ 30mls 10Vol Cream Developer This mixture should be applied and developed as normal ensuring as always that white hair has sufficient amount of product.

OPTION 3. Pre Soften - Applying un-mixed ‘neat’ tint to resistant areas.

Choose Natural on the same level as desired result, apply without the aid of Developer directly onto resistant area/s, this will allow a higher PH level for greater opening of the hair cuticle and higher concentration of colour pigment to deposit. Rest for 5 minutes, wipe off excess with cotton wool, then immediately apply with the appropriate white hair formula directly over the pre-softened and remaining regrowth/required area.

Normal development time should be applied – 45 minutes for white hair coverage.

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OSMOIKON® TECHNICAL MANUAL

COLOUR CORRECTION METHODS REMOVAL OF ARTIFICIAL COLOUR

3 OR MORE LEVELS OF REMOVAL

When there is the need to remove unwanted artificial colour from the hair, there are a number of options to choose from dependant on the degree of removal required and most importantly the condition of the hair.

When 3 or more levels of removal are required it is recommended to use regular OSMO IKON® Power Lift Bleach mixtures according to levels of lift required and most importantly the condition and porosity of the hair by firstly pre-treating with Chromaplex Chelating Mist and Chromaplex Molecular Mist.

1-2 Levels of Removal Pre-treat with Chromaplex Chelating Mist followed directly by Chromaplex Molecular Mist, then mix in a bowl; • 30g OSMO IKON® Power Lift Bleach (white or blue) • + 15ml Chromaplex Bond Shampoo • + 5mls Chromaplex Bond Builder • + 60ml Cream Developer 10Vol or 20Vol Apply to artificial colour only as this formula will lighten natural hair. Wearing gloves, apply liberally, starting at the darkest area first and gently working into the hair and massaging into the stubborn areas until maximum removal has been achieved. Rinse product clear from the hair, gently shampoo the hair with OSMO IKON® Bleach Seeker or Detoxify Shampoo, Chromaplex Bond Conditioner and Porosity Equaliser before continuing with your perfecting colour service.

Apply to artificial colour only as bleach will lighten natural hair.

When applying this formula start at the nape of the head taking 1-2 cm sections apply to the darkest areas first then laying a piece of cotton wool over the natural root area between each section to keep to from causing bleed out on to the natural hair.

Proceed until the entire head/area has been completed.

As working with bleach is based mostly on visual timing, it is most important to constantly check the progress until required amount of removal has been achieved.

Rinse product clear from the hair, gently shampoo the hair with Bleach Seeker or Detoxify Shampoo, Chromaplex Bond Conditioner and Porosity Equaliser before continuing with your perfecting colour service.

• As lightening hair always creates warmth the need for an overlay colour to counteract or tone may be necessary, being mindful of the internal integrity, condition and porosity of the hair using the appropriate OSMO® bond building and repair products available.

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COLOUR BACK TECHNIQUES PRE-PIGMENTATION

The following is a chart displaying the underlying pigment that is present on every level, this can be used for working out the underlying pigment that needs to be replaced and also the underlying pigment which needs to be considered when lightening hair.

Pre-pigmentation may be used: • When going 2 or more shades darker • When colouring excessively porous/ damaged hair • To avoid flat/matte tones When hair is lightened not only does the level of depth get removed but also the underlying pigment is first exposed then the lighter the hair is taken then eventually the underlying pigment is ultimately removed, however when we wish to replace depth to the hair we also need to replace the underlying pigment so that true colour results are achieved.

Level Of Depth

Underlying Pigment

Counteracting Tone

10

Palest Yellow

PEARL

9

Pale Yellow

PEARL,VIOLET

8

Yellow

VIOLET

7

Yellow-Orange

ASH, VIOLET

6

Orange

ASH

5

Red-Orange

ASH, ASH

4

Red

ASH, ASH

3

Red Red

ASH, ASH,

1

Red Red Red

ASH, ASH, ASH

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OSMOIKON® TECHNICAL MANUAL

COLOUR BACK TECHNIQUES (CONT.) When you wish to Pre-Pigment prior to adding depth to the hair OSMO IKON® recommend using the appropriate level for the missing pigment.

• Red = a level 4.

• Orange = a level 6.

• Yellow = a level 8.

EXAMPLE Existing Level

9 pale yellow in tone

Desired Result

6

Pre Pigment using 6 level orange

Options; OSMO IKON® 6.4, Colour Revive - Intense Copper, Planet Vivid - Haleys Comet

EXAMPLE

EXAMPLE Existing Level 9 pale yellow in tone

9 pale yellow in tone

Desired Result

3

Pre Pigment using Intense RED

Options; OSMO IKON 5.66, Colour Revive – Cherry Red, Planet Vivid - Meteor

OSMO IKON® METHOD 1 part appropriate OSMO IKON® shade + 2 parts Cream Developer 5Vol EXAMPLE: 20ml 8.3 + 40ml Gel Developer 7Vol Apply sparingly to the areas required using a bottle applictor and gently but thoroughly working into the hair to ensure full absorption. Do not saturate the hair, it should look like it’s greasy not wet.

Existing Level

9 pale yellow in tone

Desired Result

7

If needed remove excess product with a towel or slightly dry into the hair with a hair dryer.

Pre Pigment using 8 level gold

Options; OSMO IKON® 8.3, Colour Revive - Toffee

Then immediately after the pre pigmenting has been completed, the desired result mixture should be applied directly over the pre pigmented area/s.

Develop and remove as per instructions for regular OSMO IKON® colour services.

Method of application is very important to the end results and should be considered throughout the process.

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OSMO PA4 9RR UK Fitch Labs Ltd 10 Earlsfort Terrace Dublin 2 Ireland PC 071752 / MAR0377

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