damla tunc - 3.1 portfolio

&rchitecture explores discourse surrounding social inequality, inequity and spatial discrimination due to social and financial deprivation, delving into its’ relationship with human rights and climate emergency

The aftermath of the coronavirus pandemic meant that the inequalities in areas already suffering from spatial discrimination intensified, causing a national cost-of-living crisis The crisis which has impacted you-

-ng people exponentially, continues to bring out the inequality and inequity in the built environment &rchitecture aims to address these concerns by creating inclusive and ethical designs which respond to human right issues, climate emergency and the cost-of-living crisis plan of work. helping the local community post-covid-19

Understanding the community needs through visits and community consultations from the Burnley Market, COTS (Church on the Street, Depher and Pennine Community Farm. Using the information gathered to strengthen key drivers of the proposal and build up community networks.

Understanding the impact of the proposal in a national, regional and local scale.

Improving locals’ relations through shared education and making spaces, allowing communication and co-operation creating a green route towards the site, pedestrianizing the tertiary road to increase vegetation around building implementing carbon offset strategies where necessary considering pre-fabricated and pre-cast construction systems, promoting use of local materials adding donation boxes around the town to encourage community interaction. providing secure and private spaces addressing spatial inequality in small towns, highlighting lack of jobs and impact of covid-19 on young people offering my economic actor a new job opportunity in an underrepresented field battling cost-of-living crisis providing a safe space to give peace of mind and improve mental health. considering acoustic comfort, vegetation and connection with outdoors offering free education for a multigenerational audience offering equal opportunities for all –considering rain water collection and harvesting considering net zero operational carbon emissions. using solar panels and large windows for clean energy and natural daylight considering energy consumption where necessary providing an alternative green route towards the site. using bikes as transport for donation collections

Developing a brief and programme based on creating a circular fashion economy and providing creative jobs/hobbies to young people. Conducting an interview with Pennine Community Farm to analyse the available job opportunities and restrictions locally. Conducting an interview with a tailor to further reach narrative and agenda on the fast fashion industry and develop brief on making Burnley the leading city in the world for textiles.

4-7 are not relevant to 3.1, and will begin in 3.2)

Creating a narrative of designing a space that will encourage sustainable fashion by providing donation boxes and encouraging learning about the history of textiles. Creating accessible learning and making facilities for locals wanting to learn or get into the creative fashion industry. Discussing environmental strategies with Mike Foat, and structure and materiality with structural engineer Andrew Tabern, to help develop the design and consider more sustainable and circular methods of construction.

Encouraging low carbon construction techniques, prioritising using local or recycled materials. Prioritising circular economy strategy by material reuse and lifespan considerations.

Considering cost, sustainability and climate impact of materials used.

(revisited on page 28) prioritise deep retrofit of existing buildings, prioritise fabric first principles for building form and envelope, fine tune internal environment with efficient mechanical systems prioritise building re-use, prioritise ethical and responsible sourcing of all materials, prioritise low embodied carbon and healthy materials, promote use of local materials, consider modular off-site construction systems, design building for disassembly and the circular economy provide low flow fittings and appliances, provide rainwater and greywater recycling and attenuation but consider operational implications of complex systems, provide on-site black water cleansing and recycling if viable, create sustainable urban drainage that supports natural aquatic habitats and human amenity prioritise site selection with good proximity to public transport, provide high quality pedestrian links to local amenities prioritise building and site re-use, create mixed use development with density appropriate to local context, create habitats that enhance bio-diversity, create a range of green spaces, zero local pollution from the development provide spaces with strong visual connection to outside, design spaces with appropriate occupant density for activity, design spaces with good indoor daylighting, lighting and glare control, design spaces that are inclusive and universally accessible create secure places for privacy, create places for social interaction, create vibrant mixed use places, provide high quality permeable links to social amenities, create inclusive places for community interaction carry out whole life cycle analysis of key building systems, measure overall running costs, measure added value of occupant health and wellbeing, measure added value of sustainable outcomes of building decline of the textile industry. wider connections and broadened opportunities.

Although the site is located in an underdeveloped area, it has close links to nearby major cities through the UK road and canal network. This is suggestive of the textile routes expanding across the UK originating from Burnley, once the top cotton cloth producer in the world. The cotton industry which created Burnley into the town it is today, will create circulation routes to the upcycling hub on the site and generate possible transport links for the upcycled garments to travel cross-country; producing a widened

-connection to national and international cities and ports via road and waterborne transport networks.

-old trade routes during the cotton industry peak in England.

-possible transport links to generate wider connections to the upcycling hub.

-make Burnley the centre of the textile industry once again… site analysis at different scales.

-connection to nearby major cities through road networks.

-only efficient way for travel between towns is via car.

-possible joint upcycling hubs in neighbouring cities for ease of garment circulation and less waste of clothes, thus generating a sustainable fashion economy.

-the surrounding area is mainly urban, short distance from agricultural and vegetative land.

-immediate surroundings are commercial areas amongst education areas; link these together through the site?

-industrial area and old cotton mills situated in the outskirts of the town.

-east and south sides of site open.

-joint to another building on the north and narrow road between the building on the west.

-sun comes in through wide opening of two buildings on the south.

-prevailing winds from the south-west blocked by the Buddhist centre/old cotton mill on the left of the site.

-River Brun running across the vegetative plot facing south from the site.

-lack of vegetation on the route coming to the site from the retail core/market.

-during noon, the old mill adjacent to the site casts minor shadows on the north and west of the site. Could build taller to avoid the shadows? Or embrace and use the shadows in the building design. East and south faces of site is open therefore the site has good access to natural sunlight.

5.7m 7.6m site

1.2m slope primary roads secondary roads tertiary roads car parks

-the site is generally kept away from noise pollution, however the A679 to the north of the site has a lot of car congestion which travels to the site. The only other major noise pollution affecting the site comes from the retail core/market, where a lot of pedestrian circulation occurs. This can be deterred by adding a ‘buffer zone’ on the vegetative plot along the route, created with more trees and vegetation.

-A679 running across the north of the site.

-UCLAN students cross this road to reach the site from campus.

-site surrounded by two secondary roads and one tertiary.

-aim to pedestrianise tertiary road; encourage circulation and community socialising.

-a lot of car parks near the site, easy transport.

-the green space on the route from the market currently only has a few small trees and two benches. By adding more vegetation, seating areas and a walking route through the area, it provides an accessible public space and encourages community interaction.

-the site is currently being used as a car park by the surrounding workers. It sits on a slight slope with 1.2m height difference, highest point being the secondary road on the right of the site, and lowest point being the tertiary road on the left.

0 5 10 20 50m

-site surrounded by an average building height of 5.9m site locating key typologies. donation point

-building joint to the site on the north 5.5m in height.

-row of terraced housing adjacent to the site, roofs of various but similar heights.

-minimal shadows cast on the north portion of the site from the Buddhist centre/old cotton mill.

-building heights get taller going towards the retail core/market (10.7m) in the south and office building (14.9m) on the east.

-the two buildings frame the view outwards from the site looking towards the picturesque mountains in the Burnley countryside. This creates an opportunity for the public facing element of the design and shows the importance of the south façade of the site.

-the blue lines on the diagram represent the density of circulation on the roads during the day. It can be understood that the tertiary roads are not so frequently used as the secondary roads around the site. Pedestrianising the narrow road on the left of the site would revitalise and take advantage of the path as a public access point into the building, and create a more engaging west façade.

Creating a circular economy by aiding community circulation via proposed pedestrianised green spaces and encouraging interaction with nature whilst linking the scheme to key places, such as the market and retail core.

The addition of clothing donation points scattered around strategic locations creates its own story along the historical canals and mills, and stimulates a sustainable circular fashion economy by revitalizing upcycling.

Gender Religion

(demographic study of types of people around the site)

Families can be seen coming from the north where residential zones and some large grocery stores can be found Office workers are in the retail core of the town, where a diverse demographic range can be seen, from young to old Students are centered along the retail core near the market, and the route going north from the site to their university campus.

the youth and beyond.

During the first site visit, Tom from the Pennine Lancashire Farm mentioned that the young population of Burnley, after having completed high school or gotten a university degree, move out of the town in search of jobs and opportunities in bigger cities Burnley maintains its economy and has built a reputation through the manufacturing and aerospace industries, with many reputable companies having built a base in the town Due to this, advanced manufacturing and engineering jobs account for 20% of the total jobs in Burnley – approximately 7 000 positions However, like Tom has said, not all young people want to work in the engineering industry

Young people in small towns often feel like they are at an inherent disadvantage from the people living in the city, leading them to seek employment elsewhere feel as though am not given the opportunities, need to succeed in my desired career path in my hometown, Burnley. All my friends at school want to study engineering at university and feel like am falling behind with no where to go and seek help. If had the chance, would move out of Burnley to a bigger city to get the necessary support to pursue a degree in the creative industry.

Young Adults Youth University Students

Creative Interests

average salary average property price

The site surroundings generally have a wide demographic range in terms of age, ethnicity and gender The site being located near the retail core ensures a higher population density and will allow greater circulation to the building number

It has been 5 years since moved out of my hometown Burnley. In many ways the town was holding me back from achieving my fullest potential. I felt pressured to go down a career path didn’t want, or risk being unemployed. Moving to Manchester allowed me to meet like-minded, passionate people in the graphic design industry. do not see myself moving back to Burnley as my options are limited career-wise. Drawing on the conclusions made from the demographic analysis and the interview with Tom, the building proposal for the chosen economic actor will aim to create alternative jobs and opportunities for young people to encourage them to remain in Burnley and develop their local community whilst also developing themselves

-Here in Burnley and in surrounding areas there’s a lot of work within industrial settings like factory work There’s also a lot of opportunities in social care and retail But what am hearing and picking up on from the young people in Burnley is that a lot of the work is part time or zero-hour contract and there is a lot of people that do two jobs to make up for one So, I don’t think that we’ve got a great amount of choice, and it’s mostly dominated by industries like manufacturing and aerospace Especially the aerospace industry there is a lot of factories around here that make parts for planes and engineering work is also quite prevalent

-Yes, think the only job you could get with minimal qualifications is in retail or factory and labouring jobs A lot of the volunteers we have here (Lanchasire Community Hub) are not in employment, and there’s quite a few barriers that they face to get into employment

-Yes, I think the Burnley council is also recognising this there is a big talent loss that happens in this area in that the people who do well academically will tend to leave Burnley to go to the city or somewhere that can better accommodate their progression Apart from UCLAN there isn’t really a proper university offering here in Burnley, so everyone that aspires to go to university will move further afield Actually, when I was young, moved to Lancaster university and stayed up there for about 10 years, so think people go away to different areas and perhaps because the opportunities are more diverse than just engineering or manufacturing, they stay in their new homes And so, we end up losing the higher-end academic talent, and traditionally speaking, the people that do stay in Burnley, it might be that they’re doing apprenticeships or BTECS in engineering and streamlining into that sort of work the future is young.

Many young adults don’t imagine a bright future ahead of them with opportunities at their fingertips Many can’t The Covid-19 pandemic impacted the labour market, creating structural changes which hit young people the hardest A national cost-of-living crisis followed The market reduced employment opportunities in a time where they were already scarce, leading to the unemployment of young people being four times higher than the general workforce With 370,000 young people between the ages of 16-24 in the UK being unemployed, and a global rate of waiting 13 8 months to find a stable job, the situation is not getting any better

There are many attributing factors to these numbers such as gender, race, and location

Young adults living in smaller towns and lower-income areas dream of moving to the big cities for more jobs and opportunities, however with the cost-of-living crisis on the rise, this leap towards a successful future seems unattainable The lack and diversity of businesses for youth in these areas, and the hardship of moving to bigger cities means they are left with undesirable jobs, or worse yet, go unemployed

‘Policy workers must create “fairer, more equitable labour market for current and future generations of young people”.’

(Bibby, 2021:online)

Upon completing their education, young adults seek employment elsewhere from their hometown Burnley The open job positions in the area reflect the ever-rising manufacturing industry, and lack of alternative career paths for creative minded individuals Instead of remaining in their hometowns and improving the diversity of business in Burnley, young adults continue their adult life in bigger cities, leaving Burnley to be under-developed and remain ‘stuck in time’

The focus, however, should not be put on these young people chasing their aspirations and moving away due to the lack of opportunities given to them, but rather the town infrastructure and economy itself How can we bring back the youth and offer new and diverse opportunities? How can we maintain the present youth living in Burnley whilst allowing their creative hobbies and careers to flourish with no boundaries?

The succession of different career paths for youth calls for a shift in the market system; creating more creative job opportunities in a town predominantly known for the manufacturing industry, allowing youth with different interests to have hope for the future of their town, and encourage them to help Burnley flourish

As an architect, I pledge to continue this movement by proposing a textile atelier for youth and adults to have a space where their creativity can flow freely The hub will revive the beginning of Burnley, the cotton capital of the world With after-school lessons for teenagers seeking new hobbies, sewing rooms for young adults and professionals to create garments, and a community space where like-minded people can share knowledge and inspiration, the proposal will battle the cost-of-living crisis whilst offering a safe space for youth

The textile atelier will encourage young people with an interest in a field other than the prevailing aerospace and engineering industry in Burnley, to be inspired to remain in their town and help it develop and flourish Preserving the youth in Burnley will allow the town to grow with the knowledge from future generations and protect the local community

re:Uniqlo studio, London, 2022.

researching the fashion industry.

Inspired by the rich history of Burnley’s cotton industry, an interview with a tailor was conducted to understand the past and future of the craft The interview offered valuable insight into what a sustainable fashion economy looks like through the eyes of a tailor who has been in the industry for his most of his life

The re:Uniqlo studio is a dedicated repair shop addition to the Uniqlo brand, with many locations around the world and two recently opened in London The aim of the tailoring hub is to encourage customers to embrace recycling, upcycling and repairing By offering specialist repair services at a low cost, the studio’s mission is to keep Uniqlo branded garments in the fashion circulation for longer, creating a sustainable fashion economy

The proposed clothing donation boxes around Burnley will have the same effect by motivating the community to donate their unwanted clothing or items that need repairing The textile atelier will then repair/upcycle the items and sell them in the retail space Any items that do not get sold will be given to clothing banks or distributed to other possible textile ateliers in the UK, circulating the garments until they find a home welcome to my tailoring shop everyone! although it is my job, sewing relieves my stress and allows me to be creative. the craft was passed down from my grandfather to my brother, and then to me.

By buying quality, second-hand items, and repurposing our clothes, together we can create a sustainable fashion industry like the one grew up with!

#fixingfashion,

Fixing fashion is an online academy started by Dutch designer Dave Hakkens, offering actions to prevent clothes from ending up in textile landfills The platform includes information on how to properly clean, repair and upgrade textiles into something new The garments shown below are listed in the collection tab of the website but are strictly not for sale, thus encouraging the community to create their own and do their part in #fixingfashion

(Hakkens 2021:online) felted stained shirt combining two bad shirts today, handmade items are rare and big machines mass produce everything which is not sustainable. it is sad to see the craft fade away… but have hope in the younger generation!

&rchitecture - textile atelier damla tunc the future is upcycling..

“Britain’s bread hung by Lancashire’s thread.”

Minister of Labour Mr. George Isaacs during his visit to the Mechanics Institute, 1947.

The industrial revolution saw the beginning of Burnley as the manufacturing capital of the world The cotton industry which became the main source of economic growth for nearly 200 years had its peak in the town in 1929 140 cotton mills were operating, employing 63% of the towns working population However, conditions in the mills were like that of a modern sweatshop, if not worse, with little to no candlelight, cramped working spaces and no fire precautions By 1950 only 29% of the population worked in the mills, mainly due to the rise of foreign imports and the effects of the World Wars on the industry

The town which was once the largest cotton cloth producer in the world took a hit from the aftermath of WW2 much like other English towns with a textile-focused economy The working population did not return to their jobs at the mill, but instead chose industries which benefitted from the war such as engineering and manufacturing In present day , only one out of the 140 cotton mills remains with its original operational purpose; Victoria Mill How can we revive Burnley as the leading town in cotton, and teach the community about the lost history of textiles?

Fast fashion is affordable, mass-produced clothing globalised to create short-lived trends However, the enticing price tag comes with cheap materials designed to last a couple wears before falling apart, and an unjust labour system where workers are under-paid Like mentioned in the TBE chapter ‘Take Back the Market’, the clothes may be cheap, but they form part of a bigger economy derived from unethical trade, refined chemicals, and thus, greenhouse gases The fashion industry produces 10% of all global carbon emissions, and these numbers are expected to double by 2030 Cheap clothing items (sometimes never worn) are destined to end up in land fills which pollute the planet and feed into the cycle of fashion giant's micro trends

Boohoo, the Burnley-based global fashion brand is one of the only remaining landmark of textiles in the town The brand which is known for cheap clothes is based in Burnley and is known as one of the worst companies for CO2 emission in terms of physical and digital footprint Working conditions are also inadequate in relation to the national standard threshold, and the brand have been facing accusations of below minimum-wage for workers, and in some cases forceful labour whilst employees are ill with COVID-19

Due to the borough's historical reputation as a cotton base, the increased use and production of chemical materials is highly ironic Over 80% of Boohoo clothes use new plastic; this is 84% of clothes containing new plastic, and 60% being made entirely from new plastic This production process fuels the petrochemical economy, and thus worsening climate change With the carbon-heavy future of Burnley’s fashion and textile industry,

Boohoo share price evolution in 2019

Boohoo Group global revenue

Carbon Closets

(Source: [adapted from] Freetrade, 2020:online)

The proposal of a new textile atelier will change the current trajectory of Burnley’s fashion industry which is dominated by the fast fashion giant Boohoo and similar high street brands such as New Look and River Island Considering the financial deprivation in the area and spatial discrimination which the community face, the proposal will offer clothing made with the intention of lasting a life-time, thus relieving financial stress on the locals who throw out and replace bad quality clothing items regularly Teaching and learning facilities in the proposal will also create an education exchange which will benefit the town by ensuring future generations are aware and are actively combatting the harmful fashion industry

In doing so, a new is created youth looking for creative opportunities come to learn and develop, passionate workers/apprentices teach the craft and repair clothing to sell, and the community donate defective clothing and purchase sustainable clothing with a longer life span If those clothes get damaged or go out of style, they get donated recurringly and the cycle continues,

(Source: Fabric Wholesale Direct, 2020:online) taking inspiration from event organisations, draped fabrics over the timber horizontal beams were used to harmonise the market stall with the textile concept of the building proposal, and add a calming, serene and inviting atmosphere to the market stall.

The market stall will be an addition to the textile atelier building proposal The location of the market in the retail core of Burnley means that there will be increased footpath to the stall, and thus increased knowledge distribution of the aims and goals of the textile atelier

The market stall includes an information stand for people to learn the history of textiles, a clothing donation point to encourage participation in a circular fashion economy, and seating with vegetation

Chapter Summary And Market Stall Concept

In the chapter ‘Take Back the Market’, feminist economic writers J K Gibson-Graham introduce the market as an ideal system for interrelating negotiations between the producers and consumers With society heavily dependent on other people for goods and services for survival, markets distribute resources and operate naturally, with prices of products fluctuating depending on the demand of consumers The writers describe the current functioning market system, which I have diagrammed for ease of understanding;

The issue with the current market system is the lack of transparency the longer the product travels, the more the information about the product is masked, leading to a nonpermeable system where workers and consumers are taken advantage of, and knowing what lies behind the enticing price of low-cost goods nearly impossible for the average consumer looking for bargains When met with cheap products, people tend to ignore the possibility of the corrupt labour system behind it Buying a cheap t-shirt could mean the workers in under-developed countries are not earning a fair wage However, we as consumers focus on our own consumption and satisfaction and forget that our survival and pleasure is interconnected with the state of the environment and other human beings Markets are one way to connect globally with no borders and obtain things we can't produce ourselves, but these global connections can often result in unfair encounters Our encounters with such distant countries should be more direct in order to take back the market for the people and environment Another way of taking back the market is shopping locally, thus lessening the carbon footprint of transport from distant countries and creating a more direct connection with the consumer, resulting in a circular economy large machines with big teeth lift up the cotton fibers to make it soft

proximity analysis and precedent study.

This analysis of Prattville Textile Mill informed the design process by highlighting common programme in cotton mills which have remained very similar since the Industrial Revolution The design is very simple; the main area consists of an open plan manufacturing room as the core of the building This room has connections to the preparation areas for the delivered cotton to be cleaned and processed before being taken to the workers in the manufacturing space

The circulation core is positioned at the end of the manufacturing room which, due to the large size of the building, creates bad circulation routes The open plan design of the manufacturing room is also unsuccessful as it will create bad acoustics whilst the machines are operating, thus creating an uncomfortable working environment

(Sources: [adapted from] Picryl, no date:online) raw cotton gets delivered here where it is cleaned from twigs and leaves

(Source: Morby 2015:online)

Upon defining the spaces needed for a textile building, a programmatic diagram and table were conducted to understand the specific needs of each space and their proximity to each other Their proportions have been suggested through the size of their contents, with the make, process and sell spaces being the largest

UCLAN students

Professional tailors

Intermediate apprentices

Beginner learners

Large sewing area

Contained space

Good lighting

Space to cut fabrics

Clothing rails to exhibit peoples work

Relaxing communal seating area

-Encouraging interest surrounding textile business

-Give jobs to locals who are interested in the craft

-Help young people interested in the craft to get into the sector

-Produce sustainable clothes to encourage circular economy

-Encourage sustainable shopping to locals

Clothing railings

Multigenerational

People interested in fashion

People in need

Bright environment

Accessible till desks

Clothing storage cupboard

Mannequin exhibition area viewed from the outside

-Provide good quality clothing items to locals

-Increase circulation of unwanted clothes from other Textile Atelier branches

-Community economy

Multigenerational UCLAN students

Burnley college students

Burnley primary schools

People wanting to learn

Multigenerational

Other Textile Atelier branches coming to pick up stock

Passer-by’s

Multigenerational

Passer-by’s Staff

Students from education area

Small sewing area

Large tables for helpers to demonstrate work

Clothing rails to exhibit peoples work

-Introduce new hobbies for young people

-Allow young adults to start off in their creative job path

-Elevated community engagement

-Encourage donating instead of binning clothes

-Allows easy access for recycling

Indoor and outdoor

Easily accessible donation containers

Donation desk at reception

Vegetation planters with seating

Relaxing atmosphere

Directly connected with building

-Brings people into the building thus getting them to learn about what happens after they donate

-Increased community relationships

-Multigenerational reach

-Brings greenery onto the site thus creating a calm atmosphere

-Multigenerational reach

-Allows space for relaxing for staff and students in the building

Acne Studios’ Seoul Flagship, Sophie Hicks Seoul, Korea, 2015

-Large windows to let in light, could consider a curtain wall system or floor to ceiling windows in the selling space

-Simple design to help clothes stand out, allows users to be more intrigued with the items

-Mixture of clothing rails and tables to showcase items, increases accessibility

Community Hub, Atelier Boter Qifeng, Taiwan, 2022

-Shelving units, could consider adding this to exhibit students work

-Partition curtains give privacy whilst not creating a solid division in a small room, sliding doors can also be considered

(Source: Levy, 2022:online)

(Source: Morris, 2017:online)

Bilbao apartment, Pauzarq Bilbao, Spain, 2017

-Wooden floors and white walls create bright atmosphere, better working environment for the staff

-Contrast of colours with vegetation, brings greenery inside which increases aesthetic value

-Glass partition walls, could be used to allow people to see inside the atelier whilst containing the acoustic levels in the room -Useful for loud sewing machines massing iterations.

The educating space is positioned on the south of the site to take advantage of the mountain views towards Burnley market However, the outdoor green space is surrounding the processing area which is staff only, so this is not ideal

The selling space placement is not successful as it is not clearly seen from the dedicated green space on the pedestrian route from the Burnley market

A 1 200 site model and white clay were used to create initial massing iterations showing form and suggesting programme The site model helped to understand the restrictions of the site and the massing of the surroundings whilst the white clay forms were iterated to explore the relation of their volumes to each other The massing of will be taken further and developed due to its’ massing providing site long circulation and its’ height respecting of the vernacular architecture in the area (sustainable land use & ecology)

The selling space is positioned on the south in order to gain interest from the people walking up from the Burnley market The processing space is away from the heavy footpath and attached to the adjacent building which is successful as it is more private

The main green space is left locked from public access behind the making space at the back of the pedestrian path, thus the placement is not successful The educating space is tall and slender which makes it not fit into its surroundings and not being successful to the surrounding buildings

Green space is incorporated onto both streets, thus making the building more inviting harmonious with the environment The long selling space connects the two buildings on either end, increasing the circulation between the two, and allowing circulation to pass from Standish street to the pedestrianized Barnes street

Before drawing the initial design, ergonomic drawings and internal vignettes were undertaken in order to understand the spaces visually and technically General square meters were allocated to each of the four spaces based on the ergonomic sketches of the required furniture, however these might differ depending on the massing of the building and arrangement on each floor

The vignettes show a clear idea of what the spaces should resemble in essence and reflect the community interaction through open plan spaces, which will be explored in the initial design

The weave pattern on the façade is suggestive of woven fabric fibres, thus using this design would reflect the programme of the building and create a visual attraction in the town whilst emulating the aim of the building finding inspiration.

The gaps between the weave structure diffuses the light entering the building, thus good for environments that need natural but not harsh daylight such as the sewing spaces (net zero operational carbon)

Aspen Art Museum, Shigeru Ban Architects

Aspen, United States, 2014 façade detail

(Source: [adapted from] Moran, 2014:online)

Designed by Shigeru Ban, the weatherresistant and sustainable wood façade allows users to experience the outdoor and indoor spaces simultaneously, allowing strong visual connection to the outside (good health and wellbeing) The diffused lighting conditions are ideal for the Burnley Textile Atelier as harsh sunlight from south facing windows could be harmful to the users whilst they sew and cut fabrics perspective view

Shigeru Ban Architects used NATURCLAD – W Wood Cladding for the construction of the façade. Some benefits include;

-Maintenance-free HPL wood panels

-PEFC-certified raw material

-Weather-resistant

-UV-ray resistant tone

-Complete installation system

The woven façade is attached separately on a secondary steel support structure which is then bolted onto the curtain wall system This allows passive ventilation in between the façade thus preventing mould and allowing air circulation to enter through the operable windows (net zero operational carbon) load-bearing wooden structure

Brickhouse with Tower, Sanden+Hodnekvam Architects Lillehammer, Norway, 2022

Solar Shading

Passive Ventilation

&rchitecture - textile atelier damla tunc

Red brick cladding is used as an aesthetic choice and weather protection The brick is coal-fired in different tones of red and brown, giving it a unique visual Red brick is the vernacular building material in Burnley as it is across England, therefore incorporating brick into the façade of the Textile Atelier creates a harmonious continuation of the historical references and brick buildings in the area The brick façade could be implemented onto the building adjacent to the site, creating a smooth transition into the surrounding atmosphere wood infill panel non load-bearing red brick cladding

The cladding is attached onto the load-bearing structure and ventilated with gaps from the mortar in between the bricks

The building uses pine wood for the structural beams, columns and interior finishes A material like CLT would work better for the Textile Atelier in order to span longer lengths scale 1:200 @ a4 open walkway on the top could be too cold to use in Burnley’s weather, could consider covering over this or removing the ground floor walkway to have a direct transition and instead have a walkway on the first floor only need to resolve the strategy for the slope, could put vegetation to lessen the impact of the decline towards the walkway

This initial design uses inspiration from the precedents and gatherings from the site analysis to programme the spaces needed on the site whilst thinking about massing. The woven timber frame is wrapped around the smaller building which holds the making space in order to diffuse the light entering from the south facing windows and allow a well-lit environment for the people working.

The taller building being attached to the neighbouring building creates a bigger contrast in height and make building stand out negatively amongst the vernacular architecture This can be counteracted by making the south side building taller, thus taking advantage of the views towards the mountains whilst also being separated from other buildings in order to make a statement independently overlapped programme

- processing (44m2) - making (108m2)

- educating (139m2) - selling (80m2)

These overlapped programme layouts show the dominance of educating spaces in the north building, whilst the south building is varied with a selling space on the ground floor and a making space on the first floor In the next iteration, the relationship between these spaces will be explored more as their link can benefit both the students and the professionals by allowing them to collectively work together

Laurel Hills Residence, Assembledge California, United States, 2021 finding inspiration.

McDonald’s Sky Kitchen, Landini Associates Sydney, Australia, 2020

This innovative ‘sky kitchen’ in Sydney’s International Airport allows workers to deliver food via a vertical conveyor belt The design iteration will include this new system, creating a visual attraction for the visitors whilst allowing workers to transport clothing between floors

Workers will be able to sort through and separate the donated clothes on the ground floor and swiftly attach the clothing to be taken upstairs to the processing rooms where the workers prepare the clothes for upcycling, such as removing worn out patches and cutting damaged clothes The clothes can then be upcycled and placed back on the conveyor belt to be delivered to the selling space, donated to charities or taken to another Textile Atelier in the country

(Source: Brouwer, 2021:online)

- glass pathways

(Source: [adapted from] Brouwer, 2021:online)

Aimed to create a residential ‘oasis’ in the city, this house has glass walkways connecting its main uses such as the kitchen and living room The walkways create a fluid transition between the spaces, connecting the interior to the exterior, and also creating a sense of intimate scale

The Burnley Textile Atelier will use this approach to connect the main accommodations needed such as making, processing and selling Creating a glass walkway between the programmes establishes a sense of division whilst engaging with each other directly The result will be dedicated areas for different purposes, yet organically connected by a glass walkway leading the visitor to the other building

Although the first design iteration had a ground and outdoor first floor walkway, this design would not be successful in Burnley’s cold weather and the outdoor area would go unused Instead, eliminating the ground floor closed walkway and suggesting a natural route underneath the walkway would be the most successful

Although still connecting the interior with the exterior, the walkway would remain only on the first floor to achieve optimal views of the outdoor garden space whilst allowing passers-by and visitors to naturally use the site and continue their way underneath the visitors and learners will be able to see the conveyor belt production process, allowing them an insight into the work that goes into making the clothes The conveyor belt will not only be a visual attraction, but also an opportunity for knowledge

&rchitecture - textile atelier damla tunc

(Source: Echochamber no date:online clothing gets put back onto conveyor belt the items are upcycled clothing travels downwards repaired clothing is moved to the selling space or donated to other textile ateliers clothing travels upwards elevation section donated clothes get delivered clothes are hung on the conveyor belt clothing gets sorted and processed iteration two scale 1:200 @a4 section a section b the current design is boxy in nature. to create depth and connect the users on the top floors, a double height space could be considered. the landscaping will be reconsidered for events such as fashion shows being held on the pedestrianised path; either removable seating or linearly arranged landscaping to allow circulation. the slope strategy will need to be reconsidered to allow access from Standish street through the inside of the building and to the landscaped pedestrianised path. this path must be accessible for all users.

This second iteration utilises the glass walkway on the first floor to naturally connect the spaces without creating a harsh division between the programmes. The clothing conveyor belt can also be seen in the attached building, however its position could be changed in order for people outdoors to be able to view it also.

The height swap of the buildings to make the south facing building taller, achieves greater unity with the surrounding buildings due to the building facing a less dense area and standing independently whilst the shorter building attaches onto the existing vernacular architecture and respects the local style The positioning of the tall building also makes it able to prioritise the views of the mountains behind Burnley Market and allow maximum sunlight for the public areas such as selling, making and educating overlapped programme

- processing (55.5m2) - making (54m2)

- educating (75.4m2) - selling (76.6m2)

Differing from the last iteration, this design prioritises mixed use in the tall building with the overlapping of main areas spaced out over each dedicated floor The processing area is left in the north building as this will be mainly used by staff and visitors coming to drop off clothes This division of spaces is softened by the connection of the glass walkway and the natural integration of landscaping, thus creating a harmonious layout iteration one iteration two

1980s Housing Block conversion, Pool Leber Architekten Munich, Germany, 2019 final iterations.

The processing building which attaches onto the neighbouring building must have an appropriate roof in order to create a smooth transition whilst also maintaining its characteristics The current roof (iteration three) creates a very harsh connection with the pointed edge

This will be resolved in the final design by utilising iteration four, a mixture between the traditional and the new This allows for a slanted roof facing south (ideal for solar panels) whilst also joining smoothly with the adjacent buildings vernacular, and adopting its’ grey slate material iteration three level change after door does not follow regulations and is unsafe for staff clothing conveyor belt is too hidden, public cannot view whilst passing by new proposed area for the clothing conveyor belt for outdoor and indoor viewing iteration four public internal stairs must be added to reach the ground level through this door the combined ramp and stairs takes up too much space which could be utilised as a communal green area, reconsider the access to this space iteration

The interior of these redeveloped 1980s apartments use Cross Laminated Timber (CLT) as the main material The product of using it throughout the walls, ceilings and floors results in a harmonious and bright interior The same material palette will be used for the Burnley Textile atelier in order to create vivid and inviting studios whilst using a more sustainable material with less embodied carbon proposed interior material palette: triangular vegetation and seating design obstructs the path, disables any event which might be held along this path such as the Burnley fashion shows rethink the layout of the selling space, creating better circulation

1.2m cantilever, refer to Buro Happold structural engineer talk

The initial reaction to the slope on the site was embracing the natural decline and creating a walkway for the public to walk through This posed issues of accessibility as the terrain was not wheelchair friendly The second solution attempted to resolve this by placing stairs with an integrated ramp design, however it took up too much space and restricted the alreadysmall site Thus, the third iteration was created to address this issue The slope will be excavated and the height difference will be embraced by placing a glass banister on the pavement for passer-by's to observe the space Access to the communal area will be given from inside the building and walking around to the pedestrianised Barnes st

The pedestrianised Barnes street will be used as a fashion runway for the Burnley Fashion Show, showcasing upcycled work from the workers and users in order to spread knowledge about the fashion industry and engage the community with the building The seating planters arranged linearly next to the building act as seating for viewers whilst the models walk down the street, represented in the sections below