The Daily Coterie

Sunday, February 24, 2013

Coterie + Sole

Show Directory Inside!

READY

for show week?

Fashion! Scoops! Scene!

Lindsey Wixson at Anna Sui, F/W 2013

BLACK HALO 11211

CAMILLA 11209

D-ID

11007

HOUSE OF HARLOW 1960 11200

LEILA SHAMS 11108

MARC BOUWER HYBRID 10050

PIPER GORE 11206

RENZO + KAI 11207

JAVITS

NYC: 263 11TH AVE., 5TH FLOOR, NEW YORK, NY 10001 P: 212.675.8400 F: 212.675.8417 M: 917.523.9962 LA: 860 S. LOS ANGELES STREET, SUITE 215, LOS ANGELES, CA 90014 P: 213.623.8703 F: 213.623.8718

JOEYSHOWROOM.COM

RoviMoss AUTUMN WINTER 2013

JAVI TS GAL L E R I A L E V EL 4 B O O TH 9 0 8 INqUIRIES: SALES@ROVIMOSS.cOM www.rovimoss.com

oz_final.indd 1

2/11/13 3:22 PM

COTERIE NEWBIES YOU NEED TO KNOW!

Articles of Society Booth: 2714, Pier 94 Blackmeans Booth: 9040, Javits BLK DNM Booth: 9822, Javits BLK DNM Front Row Society TMRW Booth: 10231, Javits GianFranco Lotti Booth: 5414, Javits Hender Scheme Booth: 9040, Javits Max.Tan TMRW Booth: 10142, Javits Piamita Booth: 10525, Javits

SHOW TIME!

Charles Garone returns to the ENK circuit as The Daily’s new trade publications director

Erickson Beamon: Booth 9904, Javits

your daily dose Piamita

WHILE YOU WERE AWAY…. Hunter Boot tapped

Stella McCartney’s hubby, Alasdhair Willis, as creative director ☛ Edun launched menswear ☛ BryanBoy and Adrienne Landau teamed up for unisex fur accessories ☛ Catherine Malandrino’s secondary line debuted ☛ Current/ Elliott designers Meritt Elliott and Emily Current exited their namesake brand ☛ Topshop opened in L.A. at The Grove ☛ Rebecca Minkoff is launching a line of clutches-turned-speakers for Stelle Audio Couture this month ☛ DKNY reissued 15 limited-edition, ’90s archival pieces at Opening Ceremony ☛ Sam Edelman’s SoHo flagship popped up on Spring Street ☛ Monique Lhuillier set up shop on 71st Street ☛ Plus! Designer Doo-Ri Chung signed on as Vince’s new creative director ☛

I was lucky enough to begin my career at ENK back when The Plaza was the place to show, when we carried giant walkie talkies that made your tro users slide down, and when exhibitors still clamored for clipboards and pencils . I was there when the company expand ed to the Piers, then Vegas, and beyond. It was an incredible learning experience I will always hold close to my heart. Fa st forward to today: just when I thought my salt & pepper hair couldn’t get more sea soned, BA M! I lande The Daily Front Row. d at I’m absolutely thrilled to work with a group of people I am in awe of, as we contin ue to deliver the only publication tailored to Coterie & Sole Commerce. It keeps the industry in formed with a wink an d a giggle as we all conduct business; a stylish art form tha t only The Daily can deliver. My dutie s are to take the trade publications to an even greater level of “haute-ness” as we expand to other show Dailies. So fasten your seatbelts, becaus e we’ve got big plans for all of you wh o know the power of thi nking outside the booth.

PS: Got news or a killer new campaign? Let me know!

JET-SETTING CHAPEAUX CHITCHAT

WITH GLADYS TAMEZ Booth: 10131, Javits

Why millinery?

While on a trip to Spain, I met a fourth generation hat maker in the town of Vitoria.

I’ve never looked back!

Who was the first notable Johnny Depp to buy your chapeaux?

The great actress Tippi Hedren, who wore one of my early “bird” designs.

How did Johnny Depp learn about your hats?

He became a client when a costume designer gave him a bespoke hat I made especially for him. Mr. Depp sent a personal note thanking me for the hat, saying it was his new favorite. He’s currently breaking in his beaver hat!

What about Rihanna?

Rihanna purchased her hat at Church boutique in L.A. What’s trending in the hat world?

Big brims and tall crowns.

Any cleaning tips?

Ceaning and reshaping is a free service I offer all my bespoke clientele. In a pinch, you can use a lint roller or a soft shoe brush!

f a s h i o n w e e k d a i l yCOM .com FASHIONWEEKDAILY.

WITH MISHA NONOO Booth: 9009, Javits

What have you been up to?

I just finished an eveningwear collab of hand-painted gowns with de Gournay.

Any recent travel adventures?

I attended Baselworld, the watch and jewelry show in Switzerland.

What airline do you prefer?

Virgin Airlines. I love their lounges at London Heathrow.

Favorite plane activities?

Make notes and to-do lists in my Smythson journal.

Do you have a favorite hotel?

I love Le Sirenuse in Positano.

Plane peanuts, yay or nay?

Nay, I’m not a peanut kind of girl.

A MOMENT WITH DEL TORO’S MATTHEW CHEVALLARD Sole Booth: 719, Javits

How did you come up with “Del Toro”?

I was born in Torino, Italy and grew up as a fan of Torino Football. Their fans are “Del Toro.”

Where can we find your shoes?

Stores like Saks, Harvey Nichols, and Barneys.

You collaborated with The Man Repeller. What other blogs are on your radar?

As far as women’s blogs go, The Blonde Salad is definitely at the top.

What’s the most “bullish” thing about you?

I have a variety of bullish things I collect: figurines, art, random bullish knick-knacks.

A quick introduction or in many cases a re-introduction!

Editor in Chief, CEO Brandusa Niro Creative Director Guillaume Bruneau Managing Editor Tangie Silva Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Senior Editor Maria Denardo Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Art Director Teresa Platt Production & Distribution Director Allison Coles Imaging Specialist George Maier Imaging Assistant Mihai Calin Simion Trade Publications Director Charles Garone Vice President, Publisher Louis A. Sarmiento Advertising Director Hannah Sinclair Marketing Director Fred Miketa Social Media Director Ashley Tschudin Digital Director Daniel Chivu Distribution Supervisor Benjamin Woldoff

To advertise call (212) 467-5735 Or e-mail: charles@dailyfrontrow.com

DAILY FRONT ROW, INC. The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2013. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.

On the cover: Model Lindsey Wixson at the Anna Sui Fall 2013 show, photographed by FirstView. garone: giorgio niro; getty images; all photos courtesy of the designers

SEARLE RETURNS! Booth: 8430, Javits After a brief restructuring hiatus, Searle is back in action exhibiting its Fall 2013 collection at Coterie. Also on the Searle docket?

The company is set to reopen its high-end Manhattan flagship this fall, housing its in-house collection alongside a slew of notable designers.

Stay tuned!

Balmain at Luisa Via Roma

A MOMENT WITH

your daily dose HEARD The Squeeze was such a success at Intermezzo that it’s now coming to Coterie! Stationed at Pier 94, you can pick up juices, detox cleanses, and fresh gourmet meals.

ROM A: COLETTE VERSUS LUISA VIA

THE RETAIL SHOWDOWN Colette

Marc Jacobs Fall 2013

The staples: Alexander Wang, Missoni, Alaïa, Saint Laurent, Jason Wu, Balmain beauty, Thom Browne, Tom Ford, Christopher Kane, Comme des Garçons, Marc Jacobs, Givenchy, Hermès, Stella McCartney, Missoni NEW TALENT: Andrea Crews, Azumi and David, Amelie Pichard, Asherali Knopfer, Each x Other…

Unexpected treasure: Tiffany & Co. is on the roster with dainty classics like an Elsa Peretti heart necklace.

Culture connoisseurs: Michael Haneke’s Amour, Steve Jobs: The Lost Interview, André Saraiva’s Andrepolis, and a slew of magazines you haven’t heard of yet.

Foodie alert: From a chocolate padlock and Glazed vanilla “smoke on the water” ice Thom Browne cream to wine and French vodka! Plus, Maria Fall 2013 Sharapova’s candy line, Sugarpova.

MOST EXPENSIVE FIND: Shamballa Jewels bracelet, $47,976 MISSING FRENCHIES: Balenciaga, Céline, Isabel Marant, Lanvin, and Sonia Rykiel

-UPS HANDY DANDY HOOK Rolling racks and wall mounts: Millennium Racks, 344 W. 38th St., (877) 775-RACK, MillenniumRacks.com Mannequins: Rootstein, 205 W. 19th St., (212) 645-2020, Rootstein.com Cutting edge garment printing: Inkjet Textile Printing, 220 36th St., Brooklyn, (718) 369-1680, ITPSuperSample.com Booth design: Grigg Studio, 139 11th St., Brooklyn, (718) 788-3909, GriggStudio.com Custom and rental furniture: Julio Flores Inc., 113-14 St., Brooklyn, (646) 421-5970, JulioFloresInc.com Prop house: Props For Today, 32-00 Skillman Ave., 3rd Floor, LIC, (212) 244-9600, PropsForToday.com

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

AGENT R.E.D.’S GENIE PARADA-FISHMAN

What’s Agent R.E.D. International all about?

We edit the showroom to reflect how the majority of modern stores shop.

Favorite Coterie memory?

The first year, my husband and I rented a U-Haul.

We piled an avalanche of clothing in the back of the van! The next year, we hired truckers.

Do buyers ever have strange requests?

I have a mother-daughter team who come to the showroom seasonally. The mother is 78 and always requests a frozen bottle of vodka!

Luisa Via Roma

The staples: Balmain, Lanvin, Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Givenchy, Giorgio Armani, Rick Owens, Ralph Lauren, Stella McCartney, Salvatore Ferragamo, Giambattista Valli, Missoni, Dolce & Gabbana, and Brioni New talent: Christopher Raebern, LD Tuttle, Roksanda Ilincic, Prism, Maria Lucia Hohan, MSGM, No21, Lotocoho, Thierry Lasry, Heavy Machine, and…(drum roll) Kanye West by Giuseppe Zanotti Kiddie couture: Spoiling boys and girls up to 12 in Roberto Cavalli, Zadig & Voltaire, MSGM Lanvin Petite, Marni Junior, Baby Dior, and Rykiel Enfant.

E-zine excellence: Well-produced fashion week videos, “I love the ‘90s” contests, and artists that make poodle sculptures out of pompoms.

Most expensive find: Theodoros ceylon sapphire ring, $52,880 MISSING ITALIANOS: Prada, Alberta Ferretti, and Bottega Veneta

GETTING TO KNOW O MARCHÉ’S BRUNO PEUTAT

What’s your M.O.?

Maintaining the best production from France, Italy, and the U.S. with an attractive point price.

What brands do you rep?

Ammara, Kami, Poles, Zyga, Le Phare de la Baleine, and Weill What’s your pre-showroom bio?

Architecture and fashion.

What was your most memorable moment since launching?

When we opened our sister showroom, The Globe, in 2005.

What are you most proud of?

We’ve worked with the same customers for over 10 years!

TABLE TALK WITH SACHIN + BABI Booth: 10704, Javits

Who’s a better cook?

Sachin, hands down!

This winter he’s been making an amazing grilled trout.

What’s your go-to date spot?

Jubilee in our neighborhood. They always come through to save our favorite table.

Who’s your favorite dinner guest?

Fern Mallis always has terrific stories to share.

What’s the dinner topic lately?

The maturity of hip hop!

If your clothing line was compared to a dessert…

It would be profiteroles. They’re decadent and can be served in a variety of ways, depending on what you’re craving. jacobs and browne: getty images; all photos courtesy of the designers; shutterstock

Booth 9042 & 9141 Javits - Level 1 www.suziroher.com

Coterie

Haute List

Who’s

Ted Baker London

SHOWING

It’s your first day! Tons of Coterie + Sole Commerce brands to see.

Ted Baker London CEO: Ray Kelvin Booth: 8522, Level 1, Javits Center

Describe the brand in one sentence.

Ted Baker is a quintessentially British fashion brand with a contemporary outlook, offering design detailing and a commitment to delivering the best in quality.

Background, please!

Ted started out as a shirt specialist in Scotland back in 1988.

What may surprise us about the brand?

When Ted Baker opened his first store in Glasgow 25 years ago, there was no budget to advertise so customers were offered a free laundry service for shirts to ensure repeat visits, and goldfish were given away!

What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration?

The Fall womenswear collection takes inspiration from old-fashioned glamour mixed with geometric shapes and digital prints to add a contemporary twist.

What’s new this season?

Ted has reintroduced his limited-edition TUX range, a decadent collection that revels in luxurious details and highly tactile fabrications.

What’s a dream collab for Ted Baker?

Ted’s other passion is fly fishing, so he would team up with a classic supplier, like Orvis. The duo would create a bespoke Ted Baker fly fishing rod!

What’s next?

Ted’s a man of the world and, as such, he’s preparing to open new stores globally.

fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m

Ronen Chen Designer: Ronen Chen Booth: 8030, Level 1, Javits Center

Describe your brand in one sentence.

Unique designs that leave the spotlight for the woman who is wearing them.

Background, please!

In my third year of studying architecture at the Shenkar College of Engineering and Design, I was selling belts and shoes to boutiques. After graduation, I set up a one-man operation in my apartment and a year later opened my first store. After 18 years, I have 18 concept stores in Israel and two in London.

What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration?

Vineyards, high-tech architecture, and the ‘30s and ‘40s.

What’s new this season?

Dressed by Ronen Chen, our new dress collection!

Who’s your dream collab?

My dream would be to collaborate with my children. They continue to be a source of inspiration.

Who’s your earliest industry supporter?

My VP of marketing, Michal Chitayat.

Fast forward five years…

We will continue to broaden our specialty store base, partner with a few select upscale department stores, open a concept boutique in the U.S., and have a larger online presence.

What’s the favorite Coterie moment of your career thus far?

Watching our store buyers who have bought Ronen Chen for years help sell to a new store who has never seen or bought the collection before. This type of marketing cannot be beat!

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS

W W W. N I C O L E M I L L E R . C O M

collect

&discuss

brides

coming this

april!

At bridal fashion week

PLUS!

runway reports from the editors of

contact: advertising@chicreport.com

Introducing

Fall 2013

Pier 94 Booth #3244

Coterie

Haute List

Wooden Ships Name: Paola Buendia Booth: 2749, Pier 94

Describe your brand in one sentence.

Wooden Ships is about graceful, versatile, and naturally flattering pieces.

What may surprise us about the brand?

We have our own factories, and we produce all our own goods.

Background, please!

As an English Lit major with a fondness for fashion and travel, I fell in love with Bali and became a hands-on knitwear designer learning from local craftsmen in the region.

What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration?

Our inspiration is always the WS girl, who’s confident and effortless in her style.

What’s new this season?

The response to our Fall 2012 cotton collection was so amazing that we expanded on it this season, introducing new silhouettes and an even broader palette.

Key retailers?

Urban Outfitters, Free People, Barneys, Lord & Taylor, and over 1,000 loyal boutiques who tell us their customers are waiting for the latest styles from WS. Who’s your dream collab?

Marc Jacobs!

What’s next?

Asia and South America.

Favorite Coterie moment?

Seeing our customers wearing Wooden Ships sweaters at the show!

Zoe Couture Name: Zoe Zhang Booth: 8042, Level 1, Javits Center

Describe your brand in one sentence.

Every piece is wearable art, and designed for a unique, luxurious, and comfortable lifestyle.

Background, please!

I graduated from FIDM in 2000, after years of work experience in the fashion industry.

What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration?

The collection mixes vintage details from the ‘70s with the opulence and elegance of today’s trend-right looks.

What’s new this season?

We’re introducing a lounge category starting with luxurious cashmere slippers, and we broadened our price point to enable us to work with new stores and consumers.

What’s your most memorable brand experience?

Giving up the envy-worthy job with the decent income to start my own line.

Who’s your earliest industry supporter?

My family! They’re raw-material cashmere distributors in Mongolia.

With their support, I’m able to get the finest raw material each season to make sure Zoe Couture maintains the best quality and reasonable price to stand out from other cashmere brands.

Fast forward five years…

We want to expand sales worldwide from Canada to Asia, and launch a home category.

JAYKO Designer: Sabine Bardon Booth: 5104, Level 1, Javits Center

Describe your brand in one sentence.

The Jayko collections are inspired by the nature of chosen materials, and by different shapes. The Jayko brand is made for women in search of authenticity, simplicity, and poetry.

Background, please!

Jayko’s CEO and designer, Sabine Barbon, was in charge of the Baptiste brand within the Garella Group for 10 years.

What does Jayko mean?

It’s a cute, tiny lizard from Provence that brings luck.

What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration?

After a fantastic winter with the Inuits and a small stop in Camargue last

fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m

summer, we are now heading to Asia. Mongolia is the 2013 wonderland for Jayko with its amazing steps and breathtaking landscapes.

Key retailers, please!

Yaso in NYC, and other small retailers in France, Japan, Korea, Switzerland, Belgium, and Finland.

What’s your most memorable brand experience?

Our live presentation in front of millions of viewers for Shop Channel, the leading telesales channel in Japan.

What’s new?

This season, we’re sticking to our current strategy, which has proven to be quite successful for nearly 10 years: new inspirations, but the same creation process, with the combination of different clothes to create complete looks.

Who’s your dream collab?

We’re still waiting!

Fast-forward five years…

Jayko will be distributed all around the U.S., and its footprint will be broader in Asia, Scandinavia, and Europe.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS

Coterie

Haute List

Autumn Cashmere Designer: Katherine Carpenter Booth: 11009, Level 1, Javits Center

Describe your brand in one sentence.

Autumn Cashmere is a luxury apparel collection that continues to evolve each season, providing the best that the knitwear market has to offer in terms of styling, quality, and price.

What’s your background?

My first job in the industry out of college was with a sweater company. My fashion degree did not include a knitwear specialty, so I was lucky that the designer who hired me was willing to teach me the sweater business. I was with that company for almost 10 years and everything I know, I owe to that designer.

What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration?

With a nod to bands like Depeche Mode and The Cure, strong Gothic influences abound this season. There’s also an urban forest trend that’s harmoniously intertwined with Donegal tweeds and chunky knits. Fall may seem like it should be a contradiction, but the combination of hard and soft, light and dark, and feminine and masculine play so well off each other. It’s very powerful this season!

What’s new this season?

We’re growing our children’s business and amping up our focus on

Design History Designers: Company Spokesperson Booth: 11226, Level 1, Javits Center

Describe your brand in one sentence.

Design History is a women’s contemporary sweater, jersey top, and dress collection with an individual, fresh, and modern style.

What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration?

Fall 2013 is all about soft layered styles, graphic elements, and chunky textured knits. Playing with hemlines and adding an unexpected mix of fabrics to the knitwear keeps the line directional and fresh.

What’s new this season?

We’re excited to introduce leather jackets and chiffon blouses. Both seem like a natural next step for the brand.

Key retailers?

Neiman Marcus/Cusp, Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Tootsies, Emphatic at Fred Segal, Hot Mama, and Olive & Bette’s.

Who’s your dream collab?

The dancers of the American Ballet Theatre would be a dream collaboration. Dancers know how knitwear has to fit so the fabric allows for ease of movement.

What’s next?

We’d like to stay within our strong suit and apply what we do best to explore a men’s division.

Favorite Coterie moment?

The opportunity to see all of our customers in a consolidated time frame. Party time!

fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m

girls’ knits from toddler through tween. The collection has the same flawless aesthetic and styling as our womenswear, and the feedback for the new Mommy & Me business has been incredible.

Key retailers?

We sell to high-end contemporary retailers such as Intermix, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, and Fred Segal.

Who’s your dream collab?

I will forever look to music as a source of inspiration.

At the top of my list would be Gwen Stefani or Stanley Donwood, the artist who does the album art for Radiohead.

What’s your biggest career coup?

Steven Meisel has photographed my designs for Vogue, I’ve been quoted in InStyle, and the most recognizable girls in the world wear my pieces on a daily basis. It’s incredibly flattering and humbling.

What’s next?

We’re strengthening our reach overseas and have recently signed with an incredible international distribution company in Europe. Plus, we’d like to add home wares to our collection.

G-lish Designer: Gabrielle Hoffman Booth: 9142, Level 1, Javits Center

Describe your brand in one sentence.

Oh my God, where did you get that?

Background, please!

Before launching in 2005, I designed beading for Oscar de La Renta, Valentino, and Manolo Blahnik. We continue to work with couture designers as well as create for the public through G-Lish.

What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration?

I’m inspired by mosaic prints, antique jewelry, and textile prints.

What’s new this season?

We’re introducing shoes, plus more jewelry and handbags.

Who’s your dream collab?

Alexander McQueen, if he was still alive, or Karl Lagerfeld. He’s a genius, and I think Chanel does fabulous work.

What’s next for the brand?

To continue to foster relationships with our accounts and grow the accessories side. We’d like to be sold in 50 countries!

Favorite Coterie moment?

When a customer comes by, says they love the line, and want to order everything!

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS

booth #11009

Coterie

Haute List Desigual Designer: Company Spokesperson Booth: 2426, Pier 94

Describe your brand in one sentence.

We inspire positive feelings through atypical garments.

Background, please!

Desigual is composed of an eclectic and diverse team from 85 different countries.

What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration?

We’re inspired by the love our fans have for Desigual and the love we give back through our garments.

What’s new this season?

Our categories continue to reinvent themselves, providing a completely new opportunity for customers to be surprised. Shoes will be the latest category this season, as well as a small preview of our home line, called “Desigual Living.”

Who’s your dream collab?

Our dream collaborations are already in our line! Christian Lacroix continues to design our “L” Line. “Desigual Inspired by Cirque du Soleil” is a match made in heaven, and we’re expanding our partnership with Disney Characters both for our kids and adult lines.

Emmelle Design Designer: Mi Jong Lee Booth: 7920, Level 1, Javits Center

Describe your brand in one sentence.

The art of personal style and timeless elegance in a world of fickle trends.

Background, please!

I’m a Korean Latina New Yorker.

I studied sociology at Cornell University and design at Parsons.

What may surprise us about your brand?

We march to our own independent beat utilizing the very best of the premiere European and Japanese textile houses.

What’s your Fall 2013 inspiration?

Luxury and opulence for a modern lifestyle.

What’s new this season?

The “Emmelle by Mi Jong Lee” collection has doubled in size including outerwear and daytime dressing.

Key retailers?

High-end designer boutiques that focus

fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m

Suzi Roher Designer: Suzi Roher Booth: 9042/9141, Level 1, Javits Center

Describe your brand in one sentence.

Marked by refined elegance, unique design, and superior craftsmanship, Suzi Roher strives to create the highest quality products that are on the leading edge of style.

Background, please!

I grew up working in my mother’s high fashion boutique and was buying lines in Europe for the store at the age of 15.

What’s new this season?

We’re introducing a fashion forward pants line as well as beautiful cashmere and silk scarves that are all handmade in Italy.

What’s your most memorable brand experience?

Tricking my kids to work in the business. (Just kidding!) My son and daughter are now working for the company, so it has truly become a family business.

What’s your favorite Coterie moment?

I love that moment when the booth is packed, the belts have all been spread out on the floor, and things feel out of control. It tells me that the product is well-received and my customers are enjoying themselves.

on artistry and unique esthetics: Julian Gold, Dreamweaver, and Mary Jane Denzer.

Fast forward five years...

We’ll continue to evolve and grow, answering the demand for designer aesthetic in a niche market.

What’s your most memorable brand experience?

A photography and fashion exhibition at the Museum of Photography in Paris.

What’s your favorite Coterie moment?

The excitement of presenting a new collection on the first day!

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS

WORLDLY. VERSATILE. SMART. indigenous.com booth #8647 javits halls 1abc level 1

30 Sole Booth: 90 el 1 ev L Javits Center,

A Decade of Design Romanian designer Yoana Baraschi, donned by the likes of Heidi Klum and Stacy Keibler and filling racks from Anthropologie to Neiman Marcus, is ringing in 10 years in the biz. That calls for a walk down memory lane, of course, plus projects like a top secret bauble collection. Intrigued? Gather round!

BY MARIA DENARDO Photography by vital aGibalow FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Happy tenth anniversary!

It doesn’t feel like 10 years. It just whizzed by!

Walk us through your first year.

I saw minor miracles happen. I landed at the Intermezzo tradeshow before I had a business! I couldn’t have done it without the contractors, shops, or patternmakers who were willing to do less than the minimum quantity.

Who are you modeling your business on?

Emilio Pucci spent every afternoon at his stores talking to customers. That turned off the in-crowd and his friends in the nobility. But those relationships nourished him, just like they nourish me.

Is the industry nicer or nastier since you started?

In the eighties, screaming was the modus operandi.

Now it’s about positive reinforcement.

What’s been your greatest milestone?

My first Anthropologie order in 2004. They spotted me at a trade show and picked the most difficult-tomake dress. It became their catalog cover, and suddenly an order for 800 became 3,400.

Who wears Yoana, besides Anthro adorers?

A lot of lawyers wear it. That was the intention. This isn’t a line for mistresses!

How important are department stores?

We’re like the slow-food movement: Our product is homegrown, detail-oriented, and unique. I don’t want to be sold in every store or expand too quickly. It’s important for me to build strong relationships with stores—specialty or department—that appreciate this model. Neiman Marcus does, and I’ve worked with them for eight years.

Most memorable moment on the job, please!

Nine years ago, we had our first photo in the September issue of Marie Claire: Jessica Simpson wore a brown gingham suit with a fishtail skirt. Iman saw the picture and wanted to wear the suit to an event where she received an award from Mayor Bloomberg. But the temperature rose into the 90s and Iman never wore the suit!

Is that celeb factor still important for business?

Right now, there’s too much of a chase for it. We continue to do that, but it’s spun out of control!

Are you planning on showing at MBFW again?

This season, we’ll do a two-minute video on Style.com about Fall 2013. It’s half the price of a presentation, but has a longer shelf life. We’re not the ultimate newsmaking item right now, and editors are oversolicited.

You also hold appointments in Paris.

Yes, we book a glamorous hotel suite in Place Vendôme so our Middle Eastern clients can view the collection. A lot of those clients don’t come to New York anymore; they expect the courtesy of a Paris presentation.

Any projects in the pipeline?

Our jewelry collaboration comes out in May. But this year, I’m focused on a stronger online presence and international expansion; we just opened a couple of large accounts in Australia, for example.

Who are your biggest cheerleaders?

Brandusa [Niro], Dana Avidan-Cohn from InStyle, Dita Von Teese, Alexis Bryan Morgan and Anne Keane from Lucky, Mitch Johnson and Julie Sumner from Neiman Marcus, and my husband!

B o o t h #6234

FALL 2013 COLLECTION

J avits L eveL 3

HALL 3E

the

a team

Meet the talented crew behind the most exclusive trade show producer in the U.S.They have your number. Do you have theirs?

BY MARIA DENARDO PHOTOGRAPHY BY ADRIAN CABRERO

Name: maggie marquis Title: Coterie/ENK Vegas Manager Number of years at ENK: Six Previous gig: Nordstrom sales Astro sign: Cancer Fun fact: My brother plays in the minors for the Boston Red Sox. Hobbies: Shopping, reading, Pinterest, and tennis.

Shopping dens: Bergdorf Goodman and Nordstrom.

Can’t live without: YSL Mascara.

Coterie memories: I stepped into Coterie as an intern for my first show. It was crazy to see the before and after, knowing that I helped build such a great show!

Pets: My little English bulldog pup, Philly! He’s the most loveable dog of all time.

Bedside read: I hate to admit it, but I’m a sucker for romance novels!

Obsession: I’m seeing so many amazing prints for spring, so I can’t wait to break out my Clover Canyon top.

Survival technique: Lots of coffee and smiles.

Flats or heels at Coterie: Normally, I start out in heels and end up in flats. I give our lady exhibitors a lot of credit!

How you style your ENK t-shirt: Definitely with a blazer.

Best Coterie lunch: That’s a tough one. I’d have to go with a hot dog!

fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m

Name: Emilie Cooke Lewis Title: Coterie Show Director Number of years at ENK: One Previous gig: Room4 Agency Showroom, co-owner Astro sign: Scorpio Fun fact: I grew up in a one-stoplight town in Mississippi called Iuka.

Hobbies: Traveling every chance I can get.

Shopping dens: A’maree’s in Newport Beach for the scenery, Totokaelo in Seattle for new brands, and French Garment Cleaners in Brooklyn for gifts. Plus, flea markets and vintage stores for great furniture finds.

Can’t live without: My wonderful husband.

Coterie memories: My first Coterie experience led me to pursue a career in fashion. I was 20-years-old and had the opportunity to attend the show as an assistant buyer. I was hooked!

Pets: A black pug named Bailey.

Bedside read: Grace: A Memoir by Grace Coddington.

Obsession: Parisian brand Zadig et Voltaire’s lush leather handbags.

Survival technique: Get as much sleep as possible and enjoy the rush.

Flats or heels at Coterie: Heels in the morning, flats in the afternoon, and back to heels for dinner.

How you style your ENK t-shirt: Black pants and red lips.

Best Coterie lunch: Who has time for lunch?

Latest news: A growing baby bump!

m

Name: KATRINA SHKRELI Title: SOLE/Accessories Show Coordinator

Name: ELIZABETH TURNER Title: Coterie Show Coordinator

Number of years at ENK: Almost two years Previous gig: Intern at ENK Astro sign: Pisces Fun fact: I was once on the megatron at Citi Field. Don’t ask!

Hobbies: Baking, interior decorating magazines, and running.

Shopping dens: I live in Orange County, so there isn’t much around. Luckily, I have the Woodbury Commons.

Can’t live without: My Nars Barbarella Lipstick.

Coterie memories: I was able to attend Coterie as an intern. It was amazing to see everything come together after witnessing the hard work and dedication it takes to produce this show.

Pets: I’ve always wanted a Dalmatian.

Bedside read: The Great Gatsby. I love a classic.

Obsession: I’ve been on a baking kick.

Survival technique: A good night’s sleep and chai tea in the morning.

Flats or heels at Coterie: Maybe heels for an hour, but not much longer.

How you style your ENK t-shirt: A statement necklace, for sure!

Best Coterie lunch: Tacos.

Number of years at ENK: Two Previous gig: Account executive at Moda Manhattan Astro sign: Aries Fun fact: I’ve run both the Boston and Chicago marathons, which helped me stay in shape despite all the pizza I ate growing up with an Italian restaurant in my family!

Hobbies: Spending time with my family, cooking, baking, running, and reading.

Shopping dens: Calypso, J. Crew, and Club Monaco Can’t live without: My boys Coterie memories: Finishing my first Coterie show in February 2011 with a split venue and a one day set-up was quite the challenge!

Bedside read: Unbroken by Laura Hillenbrand.

Obsession: Weekends Survival technique: A good night’s sleep and coffee.

Flats or heels at Coterie: Both!

How you style your ENK t-shirt: Keep it simple and classy.

Favorite Coterie lunch: Coterie breakfast over Coterie lunch!

Latest news: With a baby, I feel like there’s something new in my life every day!

Name: juliA Richmond Title: ENK Footwear Show Director Number of years at ENK: Six fun years Previous gig: Account executive at Punch Public Relations Astro sign: Pisces Fun fact: I like to repeat outfits just to see if anyone will notice.

Hobbies: Attending music festivals, yoga, jogging, and taking long rides on my bike Shopping dens: Tokyo Joe on 11th Street and Zara.

Can’t live without: Coconut oil!

I use it as eye makeup remover, moisturizer, and even to cook with.

Coterie memories: Last season, we had dolly races during move-out. That was pretty fun, or maybe we were just delirious!

Bedside read: Beautiful Ruins

by Jess Walter.

Obsession: Elin Kling is my girl crush. I love her style, and she’s a kickass business woman.

Survival technique: Lots of water and coffee.

Flats or heels at Coterie: Heels How you style your ENK t-shirt: I like to wear black textured pieces with it.

Best Coterie lunch: I’m vegan so I stick to the salads and potato chips at 3 p.m.

Next up: I’m turning 30 and taking a trip to Mexico with 15 of my girlfriends!

Name: ivy quejado Title: Coterie Show Coordinator Number of years at ENK: I’ve decided that two trade shows are equivalent to one year, so let’s say one year after this Fall ‘13 show.

Previous gigs: The FADER, MAGIC, and Moet Hennessy, to name a few.

Astro sign: Cancer, through and through.

Hobbies: Snowboarding, traveling, reading, Netflix, and hopefully tennis one day.

Shopping dens: Unless it’s a killer sample sale or a lunch break at Zara, I shop online.

Farfetch is my newest addiction!

Can’t live without: Instagram Pets: My Staffordshire bull terrier and the love of my life, Jake LaMotta, aka “The Raging Bull.” #jakelamottathedog Bedside read: Just Kids by Patti Smith.

Obsession: I’ll always be obsessed with New York City.

Survival technique: The promise of a bottle of wine waiting for me at home every night.

Flats or heels at Coterie: Heels, of course! But they should be stacked to help minimize the suffering.

How you style your ENK t-shirt: When all else fails, you just have to keep it black and throw on a killer pair of heels.

Best Coterie lunch: The Korean bowls!

GETTY (12); A-TEAM: ALL COURTESY

Frankie B.

interview with Daniella Clarke Q. Daniella, tell us a little about Frankie B. A. Frankie B. is a premium denim brand based in Los Angeles. I started Frankie B. in 1999 after getting so much attention for the jeans I was making for myself. I guess what we were most known for then was our sexy low-rise and edgy rocker style. Today we have evolved into a more sophisticated but still edgy collection.

Q. What would you say is your biggest inspiration?

A. I’m inspired by everything! Music is huge for me, travelling is very inspiring too. I like to shop vintage stores and collect old magazines from the ‘70s and ‘60s. I’m never too literal, or the collection would look dated. I like to mix a little vintage flavor while keeping modern lines and modern technology.

Q. What can we expect to see from Frankie B. for Fall 2013?

A. I was watching an old movie called Blade Runner and was so inspired by the tough chick played by Daryl Hannah. For Fall you will see a lot of biker and moto influence, lots of metallics, leather, studs, and prints. We’ve also introduced a few new fits, like the ‘Perfect Fit’ which is a slightly higher rise in the front and back.

For me, though, the standout style is the New York Skyline jean!

Q. What makes Frankie B. different from other denim brands?

A. What has always set Frankie B. apart is our fit and how our girl feels when she’s wearing our jeans.

Q. Frankie B. is known for having a very low rise cut. Are your jeans still as low as when you launched?

A. We launched as the low rise jean, but we’re so much more than that now. Our style and fit has evolved into a cleaner more sophisticated fit, with three different rises. We now offer an 8.5 inch rise, “The Perfect Fit” which is one inch higher than our oringinal version. We also offer a “High Rise Fit” which is 9.5 inches in the front rise, making the jeans more wearable to more women.

s t c a F n u F Frankie B. is Clarke’s 18 year-old daughter, who plays in a rock ‘n’ roll band, Lightspeed.

Q. What’s the one beauty product you can not live without?

A. Lancome’s liquid eyeliner in noir! I shudder at the thought of them discontinuing it!!

Q. What do most people not know about you?

A. My family and close friends call me Martha Stewart, because I love to cook and entertain. I’m also a closet photographer. Wait! That’s two things….

Thanks Daniella! Don’t forget to visit Frankie B. at Booth 3215 on Pier 94.

SPECIAL PROMOTION

When we heard longtime pals Nicole Miller and writer Jay McInerney would be lunching at The Standard Grill, we asked if we could tag along.

Lobster roll, anyone?

BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

chic supe

How and where did you two first meet?

Jay: At either a nightclub, or somebody’s loft, or maybe it was someplace like Nell’s. I’m not actually sure. The downtown scene in the ’80s was small enough that sooner or later you met everybody.

Nicole: We’ve narrowed it down to some time in 1984. Jay knew my husband first, and Jay and I both knew Bret Easton Ellis and Candace Bushnell.

What was the scene like back then?

Nicole: I was always busy doing stuff, going to Area and Studio 54. We worked hard during the day, and we partied at night.

Jay: We never went above 14th Street, and a lot of energy was spent thinking about having an ‘in’ to those clubs. Area had a tough door policy, like, if you were an actor you had to be a real hipster actor to get anyone to pay attention to you. Matt Dillon used to hang out with us, but nobody got really excited if Michael J. Fox showed up.

[The waitress checks in. Nicole orders chardonnay. Jay sticks to water.]

Jay: I’m a little under the weather. I’m going to try and not drink for 48 hours. I might shrivel up and die!

Nicole: Remember when you had that dinner party in the Hamptons? I had a cold, and I decided I wasn’t going to drink. I lasted five minutes!

Who’s the bigger foodie?

Jay: We’re both big foodies. We e-mail each other all the time about our latest meals. It’s sick.

Nicole: My old standby is always Da Silvano.

Jay: When Da Silvano’s chef has truffles, I withdraw a large amount of cash from the bank in advance.

when Miller m

Studio 54

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

How do you keep the pounds off?

Jay: I fidget a lot. Nicole’s at Soul Cycle all of the time.

Nicole: It’s true, but today I saw in the Post that I missed Bradley Cooper at the Tribeca location!

Do you influence each other creatively?

Jay: I steal stories from her. I’m waiting to write my ‘Nicole’ character.

Nicole: Always. Jay’s so dapper!

Is he going to get hooked-up with some new clothes?

Nicole: I’m going to have to dress him!

Jay: I remember when you designed menswear the first time. You were like Ralph Lauren. I had a grey suit that you made me, and you used one of my books on that tie you did with all the book covers on it.

Nicole: We sold thousands of those ties!

That’s when men used to have a sense of humor.

[They order. Jay opts for the lobster roll and fries; Nicole gets her usual hanger steak salad.]

Nicole: This is the best bread and butter in New York! Every time I leave here I take the bag of bread.

Do you remember your first runway show?

Nicole: Of course! We did it at this club called Laura Belle. Back then, everyone would show in different places around town—old theaters, mannequin studios, nightclub venues—and the editors were always running all over the place.

Jay: Things were so different. In the early days, we couldn’t even afford real fashion. We were wearing vintage clothes, costumes, or still wearing our prepschool stuff.

You show at the Tents now, Nicole. Why? Nicole: They really make it really easy for you. There’ve been times when we’ve gone off-site, and inevitably there’s something that we didn’t think of. I remember after 9/11 when Fashion Week was canceled. We had to move the show to the showroom. A lot of weird things happened. We served lots of alcohol.

How’s the Bright Lights, Big City remake coming along, Jay? Jay: Great. It’s being made this summer. The screenplay was written by Josh Schwartz, who was the creator of The O.C. and Gossip Girl. I wrote the original screenplay for the first film in 1988. It was successful at the time, but I don’t really like it. What was more authentic for me was a movie I wrote called Gia. Oh, we’re familiar! It’s required viewing at The Daily.

Nicole: I’d love to trade places with Angelina Jolie for a day. But Gia wasn’t really a supermodel. She became a much bigger deal after she died.

Jay: Eh, she had five or six months when everybody wanted her.

Nicole: Yeah, it’s funny. I remember over the years that there’d be a model and she’d walk like a dream in my show. Then we’d be booking the next show and I’d be like, ‘What about that girl? She’s really cool.’ Then they’d tell me, ‘No, she’s over.’

It’s a tough racket. What models are you loving this second?

Jay: The only ones I can think of are Sports Illustrated models like Bar Refaeli.

Nicole: It’s not like it was in the ’90s, certainly.

Jay: I want to hear a good naughty model story! Got any?

Nicole: I don’t really have any bad stories, but we once did a lingerie show at Scores. We thought one of the models was going to take her top off.

Whose style do you admire?

r met McInerney 8920 Booths: 8820 & evel 1 Javits Center, L

Jay: Hamish Bowles, Tom Wolfe, and Nicole, of course. I remember back in 1995 when The New Yorker asked me to write about fashion. I told them I knew this girl, Chloë Sevigny, from around the clubs. She was living in squalor somewhere in the East Village even though she was from Darien. It took me three days to find her. She had this impeccable ability to find stuff in a thrift shop that would drive Anna Sui wild.

What starlet would you love to dress?

Nicole: I like Jessica Chastain, plus she has red hair like me.

Jay: Amanda Hearst, my stepdaughter, is at the top of the list.

Does Amanda ever give you fashion advice?

Jay: She’s been kind enough to refrain from that, but I sometimes ask her about stuff for her mom. I discovered Rag & Bone through Amanda.

What other designers are you into?

Nicole: I like to look at the British shows like Meadham Kirchhoff and Jonathan Saunders.

Jay: In the ’80s, I liked Armani. In the ’90s, I liked Prada. In the early part of the last decade, I liked Gucci. I have a few pieces by Thom Browne right now, but I don’t wear the pants flood-length.

When did you first realize you were famous?

Nicole: When it was easier to get dinner reservations. They’d be like, ‘Oh, we’re all booked up.’ Then I’d be like ‘Oh, but it’s me.’

Jay: I remember a pub party at Area for Bright Lights, Big City. Norman Mailer, Boy George, and Billy Idol showed up and I thought, ‘Wow, this is cool!’

[A friend approaches and greets Nicole.]

Friend: Are you all right? I saw there was a photographer marauding you!

Nicole: Yeah, I’m just being paparazzied. p o r t r a i t: t h e pau l g r e e n . c o m ; s t o r e : a l l c o u r t e s y

Talk about a crossover success story: Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen have segued with aplomb from adorable child star sister act to CFDA bait with a waitlisted $39,000 alligator backpack in their uberluxe line, The Row. But for chic wear-everywhere threads, it’s all about their Elizabeth and James line, launched in 2007. Six extremely successful years later, the brand’s future is fragrant!

Booth: 10804 1 evel Javits Center, L

Twin Titans Y

ou just launched a new handbag line. A teaser, please!

Mary-Kate: The collection focuses on functional, easy shapes with a clean aesthetic. We paid close attention to finishing, selecting quality Italian leathers and cow hair, and accenting with subtle, signature hardware.

Why expand Elizabeth and James into the handbag realm?

Ashley: Mary-Kate and I researched the market and felt there was an opportunity in the advanced contemporary space. We thought about our Elizabeth and James girl and wanted to offer great fashion and quality at an attainable price.

Do you have a go-to from the new spate of bags?

MK: It’s impossible to pick just one!

The sling and satchel are two of my favorite silhouettes.

A: I love the cross body. We designed it so you can unclip the shoulder strap and carry it as a clutch taking it from day to night.

Do you divide-and-conquer much in terms of your roles?

MK: Ashley and I are equally involved in all aspects of the business. From design and business decisions to brand imagery and marketing, we put our touch on everything. We’re all about the details.

Why is Coterie important for Elizabeth and James?

MK: Coterie allows us to show our specialty stores the breadth

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. c o m

of Elizabeth and James. In addition to launching handbags this season, we’re introducing our updated logo.

The brand has grown up over the years; it was time for a new look!

Who are your biggest fashion industry supporters?

A: Major retailers and specialty stores embraced Elizabeth and James immediately; they’ve shown loyalty and support over the past five years. Also, we’ve been lucky to develop amazing relationships with editors. It’s fun to see which styles they gravitate toward!

Any retail outposts on the docket for Elizabeth and James?

A: We’re hoping to launch e-commerce first in 2014—then, we’ll move into retail in early 2015.

Are there any countries you aren’t yet selling in that you’d like to break into?

MK: We see great potential in Asia. We’re exploring expansion opportunities, specifically in Korea and Japan. We’re excited to visit those areas next year.

You’ve dabbled in handbags; the results look quite chic! So what’s next for the brand?

A: Mary-Kate and I are excited to launch the Elizabeth and James fragrance in early 2014 exclusively with Sephora.

Sounds scents-ational! Why go such a fragrant route?

A: Fragrance is very intimate and personal! We’re enjoying the process and can’t wait to share the finished product.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY

Booth nr: 5204 Hall E

www.ewaiwalla.se

DEMONSTRATIONS IN LIGHTNESS. BANANAS VS DERBYS Next time you have a banana, imagine you’re holding one of our shoes.

It may not taste the same, but the weight will be close.

The bananas come in at a hefty 353g. The Derby Yellow, 336g.

Featuring a super-light and durable outsole with soft leather uppers.

The philosophy is simple. We make shoes of colour, wonder and fun.

See more demonstrations in lightness at rollienation.com

Javits Galleria, Level 4. Booth number 519

1) Jason wu

HINT: They met at a New Year’s Eve party in 2005.

Six months later, friendship turned to love and they’ve been attached in every way ever since.

?

?

A) Wen Zhou

2) Thakoon

HINT: In the early days, Panichgul would give his wingwoman the only chair in his tiny studio while he sat on a garbage can.

Match the designer

B) christopher suarez

TO theIR MONEY MAVEN stuff. Can ies, and do all the math tor fac e th d fin , ric fab INGER They buy the Bergés? BY PAIGE REDD rre Pie of ion rat ne ge xt you ID the ne

?

3) Phillip Lim

HINT: Nine years ago, Lim launched his collection with cash from this friend, who he met in Paris. She’s now his CEO.

?

4) Victoria Bartlett

C) Gustavo Rangel

HINT: Bartlett was consulting for Theory when she hooked up with this retail strat master.

VPL X Booth: 9811, Javits D) Uri Minkoff

?

?

5) Rebecca Minkoff

HINT: This biz whiz made money in tech and was so confident in Becky’s talent he invested his hard-earned savings.

6) Nicholas Kirkwood E) Kikka Hanazawa

HINT: In 2005, he stumbled on Kirkwood’s booth at the Parisian accessories tradeshow Premiere Classe.

Booth: 8604, Javits

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1C,2F, 3A, 4E, 5D, 6B

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for

Booth #9454 Javits Center

A thought provoking collection of outerwear

Photography by Oliver Poon at vivianandoliver.com

Penelope Chilvers is ever the renaissance woman: shoemaker, painter, equestrian, and global traveler. The British designer’s collections are rife with worldly influences, from a love affair with Spain to her jaunts to Turkey. Care to take a walk in her shoes?

BY PAIGE REDDINGER

boots

These were made for

walkin’ H

ow did you step into the shoe business?

I’ve always been a fine artist and painter, but I went into product design with a need to be more commercial. I got to know people that dealt in leather and shoes. Back then, I made everything bespoke.

Your childhood summers were spent in Girona, Spain. How did that influence your design aesthetic?

I got my love for equestrian-style footwear and Spanish leather from those days! I raised my family in Spain for a while; we have a summer home there now. I make everything in Spain, but I live in London.

Both countries have influenced me greatly.

I feel like I have a foot in each place!

You’re quite a jetsetter!

It seems like I’m always traveling somewhere, especially when I’m about to start a new collection. The idea for Spring 2013 came from a trip to Turkey in January.

I worked with Kilim rug makers for a week in Konya. I don’t like to do anything from a distance! I really wanted to learn how they

fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m

were made to understand it better.

Any particular part of Spain that you’re focusing on for Fall?

Last April, I went on a trip to El Rocio.

It was a Catholic pilgrimage, done on horseback. It’s more about riding, eating good food, and sleeping under the trees than anything else. You’ll see influences of that in my new collection.

How do traditional British boots and Spanish riding boots differ?

The disciplines are the same, actually. The Goodyear construction has been used in traditional British men’s footwear for many years. Some of our best footwear out of Spain has the Goodyear sole.

What’s your trademark stamp?

My riding boots have a tassel on the zip.

It’s kind of a coquettish detail. I make them in Spanish saddle leather, and it moves when you walk.

Sounds chic! Your packaging is unique as well.

I have the shoe boxes hand painted and screened individually on a printing table by a man in Spain who’s worked with me since I started the collection. He’s the only person I know left in the

1 Sole Booth: 21 el 4 ev Javits Center, L world that still does boxes in that way!

Everybody else has them digitally printed.

Where do you sell in the States?

We’ve worked with a lot of fantastic independent retailers, like The Gallerie in Aspen, Azalea in San Francisco, Shopbop, Erica Wilson in Nantucket, and Calypso.

We’re excited to be launching our Spring 2013 collection at Barneys.

Do you have any celeb fans?

Kate Middleton is a great customer of our boots!

Are you personally a shoe aficionado?

I only wear my own footwear; I wear them until they get old. Suddenly I’ll look down and I’m like, “Oops! I should be wearing a new pair!”

Do you still paint in your free time?

[Laughs] What free time? We’re a fastgrowing business. My sketchbook is always full.

Where will your travels take you next?

I just got back from South Africa. Stay tuned for a bit of an African influence in my holiday collection!

GETTY (5)

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY

Tel: 954.578.5687 Fax: 954.578.4431 info@iftheplanet.com www.iftheplanet.com

Premiere Booth 5310

SHOWROOMS CHICAGO  L.A.  DALLAS

: 10241 TMRW Booth evel 1 Javits Center, L

paper dolls Paper London, a little known Brit hit featuring sharp lines, graphic knits, and tons of joie, has been creating a major splash across the pond. This season, the TMRW newbie will bring its vibrant assortment stateside with the help of managing director and co-founder, Philippa Thackeray.

BY MARIA DENARDO

T

rue or false: You used to be a lawyer, Philippa.

True! Before I became the managing director at Paper London, I advised luxury fashion brands while Kelly Townsend, our creative director and co-founder, was a knitwear designer at Temperley. We met through our husbands about seven years ago and have been friends ever since.

What’s the story behind Paper London?

At first, we liked the name “Paper Doesn’t Blush” but we felt it was too verbose for the brand, so we shortened it to “Paper” when we launched in 2011 with the idea that paper is a blank canvas on which to express yourself.

Who walks your Paper route?

Cool, confident young women who know their own minds. Our most frequent customer is an international, career woman in her mid 30s to 40s with a bit of

fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m

disposable income.

What’s your calling card?

We’re known for our graphic knits, which are most popular in London. In the U.S., our dresses sell very well.

Which stores stock Paper?

We’re in stores like Merchant Archive, which is a cool boutique in Notting Hill, Young British Designers, Avenue 32, Stylist Park in China, and Valley Dez in Dubai. We also just launched online in the U.S. We’re sold on HarpersBazaar.com.

How did you connect with Bazaar?

We had a press day in New York last season, and they selected a look that was featured in the February issue. They loved it so much, they wanted to do a select from our Spring ’13 line, too.

Is London having a moment right now?

I definitely think so. There are so many young, talented brands out there with a bold, signature look, Philippa Thackeray and Kelly Townsend

and it’s getting people’s attention. There’s some good support for emerging brands like us from the British Fashion Council, but it’s tough in the current economic situation. More could be done.

What’s helped the brand stay on top?

When Pippa Middleton chose our Spring 2013 dress to wear to the U.S. Open, we sold out the same morning!

That launched us on an international level.

Do you hang out with other London designers?

We usually spend time with young brands, like this great handbag line called Milli Millu.

What’s on the docket this year?

We’re launching a menswear jumper range, sometime before Christmas. It’s a good excuse to bring your husband or boyfriend shopping with you!

Any brick-and-mortar dreams?

Our original plan was just to have an e-commerce site, but textured fabrics can get lost online. Instead, we’re looking at pop-up stores in London around Carnaby Street.

Where would we find you in London?

On Fridays, we like to eat at this great Moroccan fish store on Golborne Road that serves delicious intricate lunches that you can savor while watching the world go by!

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY

263 west 38th st., 11th fl., new york, ny 10018 (p) 212.221.6523 (f) 212.221.6529 843 s. los angeles st., unit 201, los angeles, ca 90014 (p) 213.955.6116 (f) 213.955.6111